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Zeroing the gauge will only give you the correct caster degree before the 1.5 multiplication, if the first 20 degree measurement and the second 20 degree measurement are opposites. That is, one is positive camber and the other is negative camber, or visa versa, which luckily , a lot of cars are. If both readings are positive or both are negative, then you subtract the numbers ( lowest from highest) from each other, then multiply by 1.5. This is why some DIY digital gauges designed specifically for alignment have a "caster" mode.
The way I explained it, is the way it's done with this kit. And yes, most all cars are born with positive caster, unless you have an old front wheel drive car, like a caddy. Thanks.
The vast majority of alignment shops have no clue what "bump steer" is. Every time I brought my B5 A4 to an alignment shop, it would come back with the outer tie rod ends wrenched down beyond their max spec, and the car would try to throw itself into a ditch anytime it hit a bump. Even disregarding that, those big alignment racks ARE NOT PRECISE, not even the fancy laser ones. They're built to be quick to operate and make the owner more money by speeding up production. It's not until I learned to do my own alignments that I realized what a world of difference a proper alignment can have on the "feel" of a car. And getting to experiment with different camber and caster specs to find just the right setting is priceless, and something you never get to do at a typical alignment shop. Everyone who's a car enthusiast and wants to get the most out of their car needs to learn how to do proper alignments, even if only to appreciate how bad the results from a typical alignment shop can be
@@larrybud I misspoke up there. What I should've said is that fancy shop alignment racks are not more precise than string alignments. My baseline for this is results (tire wear from shop alignments vs my own) and repeatability. Have a car aligned at a shop, then bring it to another shop, and the numbers will most likely be slightly different. Part of that is the shop's setup (how level their rack is, distance of readers from car, etc), part of it is the tech's fault (how carefully they installed the alignment equipment on the car), and part of it is just variability between different models. Meanwhile, a good string alignment setup by a competent tech in the same location using the same equipment is more likely to yield the same results every time. And having the luxury of time means being able to re-check results multiple times to try to eliminate any potential setup errors.
On a car with adjustable rear toe, it seems that mounting the strings to the wheels may not ensure that the strings are square to the vehicle since the frame to which the strings mount will be angled. It seems it should work with solid rear axle vehicles.
Yeah, it took me a while to wrap my head around it... but, it does work for rear toe. "The String" end points are at the rear of the rear and front of the front wheel, so the string is pretty darn close to parallel to the frame. It works surprisingly well. Thanks for the comment!
alot of shops are douchrags .. i used to do alot of junkyard parts swap front end repairs for people then run them to the shop for an alignment ... multiple times ive had shops damage parts that i just installed on purpose trying to sell me repairs, im sure they just assumed they were old and not repaired, then turn around and tell me i need new tie rod ends, ball joints or a rack i just replaced .. sure as sht id walk out there and look, and theres cletus with a giant prybar layin on top of his toolbox .. talk about pissed off😂 .. anyway yeah, you find an honest place youre lucky, stick with it ..
I do not trust anyone with my vehicles either, My 1970 charger I restored several years ago needs to have a alignment hopefully after your videos I can do it myself.
@@FastMonty I''ve got the quicktrick s5th gen string aligner and I'd like to be able to do a printout something like you'd get from an alignment shop for each vehicle I do.
Ohhhh, got it. Congrats on getting the Stringing Kit. That's a fantastic question I do not know the answer to. Maybe ask QuickTrick? I'm sure they have way more insight on what software is available out there... good luck! @@tamirajohnson5220
Depends on your car... you're going to have to look up your particular spec, and then figure out how that number translates to "offset" from straight. Basically "toe in" for the rear. Hope that helps.
Thanks David, I honestly don't know what the "timeout" is? Maybe contact QuickTrick to find out? If there's a trick to keep it on longer, let us know! Thanks again for the comment!
@@FastMontywhen you set up your tool and take the rear ruler reading then change the angle (alignment) of the front wheel then read the rear ruler measurement again you will get two different measurements even though you haven't changed the rear alignment at all. That's why I said you can't attach your string to the tool.
@@michalmmtb7120 Ahhh gotcha. Your front alignment would have to be wayyyy off for that to happen. Even if it was, you straighten the front, then set it up and re-measure the rear. Thanks!
@@FastMontyI don't know if you don't see it or just don't want to see it, but fixing your string this way is not going to give accurate adjustment. There's another issue as well, when you change the tow you move the string mounting point, that means you chance the angle of the string as well as the angle of the wheel. The only way is to mount your string independently on some sort of stands and keep it this way, parallel to you car, for the whole process of alignment.
@@michalmmtb7120 I assure you it won't move it enough in the rear. If it's way off in the front, fix the front, then remeasure. I know how to do traditional stringing, as I did a video on that too. Thanks.
I bought the kit and everything is great about it but not impressed with the digital levels and the screw on side bracket. I don’t like the way you check Camber with it. The side of the level is not flat and very inaccurate. A better way is to lay it flat on the upper bar. Way more accurate. Other than that I love the kit. Thanks for the great video.
Yeah, it takes a little bit of practice to get the gauge to sit flush on the short end. Not sure how you'd lay it flat on the upper bar??? please explain. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
A little late for that, don't you think? LOL I discuss my set up, because I have the absolute worst-case scenario, staggered wheels, AND different track width front to rear. Thanks.
@@saucyvr3031 Agreed! You're the first person to point that out... Staggered adds a couple of variables that would get you in trouble, if you're not aware. Thanks for the comment!
Man, this guy is bleeding money and free time out of every pore on his body, I am SO jealeous!! Minimum wage and being forced to live modestly are not on this guy's menu...
The way that level is held on by that cattywompus bracket is bogus and cheap. They should have welded on a 90 degree ledge for the level to sit on. That rinky dink setup just screams poor quality.
Understandable concern. I kind of like its simplicity and portability. As you know, adding a perfect 90 degree bracket is not easy, and would drive up the cost. (To do it right it would need to be post machined, after welding... that's why it currently registers off of the edge of the digital scale, to ensure it's perfectly flush, and 90 degrees) Thanks for the comment!
@@FastMonty I got a camber gauge off ebay for $10 already so good on that. I use 4 jackstands and wrap fishing line around them and use a caliper to measure...works just fine for my needs
Subscribe for more, click here; ruclips.net/user/fastmontysgarage Join the "Full Monty Crew" to support the channel, and get priority tech support! ruclips.net/channel/UCB2KWiUuWR_OFpJtXS94bCQjoin OR, Get your FMG hat, three color combos to choose from, check em out here; www.etsy.com/shop/fastmontysgarage
LIKE MY SHIRTS? Save the Stick, Racer Things, Save the Manuals, etc... Go here; swee.ps/ceTsro_YesDohb
Zeroing the gauge will only give you the correct caster degree before the 1.5 multiplication, if the first 20 degree measurement and the second 20 degree measurement are opposites. That is, one is positive camber and the other is negative camber, or visa versa, which luckily , a lot of cars are.
If both readings are positive or both are negative, then you subtract the numbers ( lowest from highest) from each other, then multiply by 1.5.
This is why some DIY digital gauges designed specifically for alignment have a "caster" mode.
The way I explained it, is the way it's done with this kit. And yes, most all cars are born with positive caster, unless you have an old front wheel drive car, like a caddy. Thanks.
The vast majority of alignment shops have no clue what "bump steer" is. Every time I brought my B5 A4 to an alignment shop, it would come back with the outer tie rod ends wrenched down beyond their max spec, and the car would try to throw itself into a ditch anytime it hit a bump. Even disregarding that, those big alignment racks ARE NOT PRECISE, not even the fancy laser ones. They're built to be quick to operate and make the owner more money by speeding up production. It's not until I learned to do my own alignments that I realized what a world of difference a proper alignment can have on the "feel" of a car. And getting to experiment with different camber and caster specs to find just the right setting is priceless, and something you never get to do at a typical alignment shop. Everyone who's a car enthusiast and wants to get the most out of their car needs to learn how to do proper alignments, even if only to appreciate how bad the results from a typical alignment shop can be
Thanks Frank! What a great testimonial!
How do you *know* they are not accurate? What's your baseline?
@@larrybud I misspoke up there. What I should've said is that fancy shop alignment racks are not more precise than string alignments. My baseline for this is results (tire wear from shop alignments vs my own) and repeatability. Have a car aligned at a shop, then bring it to another shop, and the numbers will most likely be slightly different. Part of that is the shop's setup (how level their rack is, distance of readers from car, etc), part of it is the tech's fault (how carefully they installed the alignment equipment on the car), and part of it is just variability between different models. Meanwhile, a good string alignment setup by a competent tech in the same location using the same equipment is more likely to yield the same results every time. And having the luxury of time means being able to re-check results multiple times to try to eliminate any potential setup errors.
I love these alignment videos Mike. Thanks for making them.
Thanks Brother... I love process improvement, especially with tools to help us in the field. Thanks for the comment!
Great job Mike. Thanks for the demo.
Thanks Team QuickTrick! Love your stuff!
On a car with adjustable rear toe, it seems that mounting the strings to the wheels may not ensure that the strings are square to the vehicle since the frame to which the strings mount will be angled. It seems it should work with solid rear axle vehicles.
Yeah, it took me a while to wrap my head around it... but, it does work for rear toe. "The String" end points are at the rear of the rear and front of the front wheel, so the string is pretty darn close to parallel to the frame. It works surprisingly well. Thanks for the comment!
alot of shops are douchrags .. i used to do alot of junkyard parts swap front end repairs for people then run them to the shop for an alignment ... multiple times ive had shops damage parts that i just installed on purpose trying to sell me repairs, im sure they just assumed they were old and not repaired, then turn around and tell me i need new tie rod ends, ball joints or a rack i just replaced .. sure as sht id walk out there and look, and theres cletus with a giant prybar layin on top of his toolbox .. talk about pissed off😂 .. anyway yeah, you find an honest place youre lucky, stick with it ..
Love the story! And, I totally agree... if you find someone good, keep em! Thanks for taking the time to comment. See ya!
I do not trust anyone with my vehicles either, My 1970 charger I restored several years ago needs to have a alignment hopefully after your videos I can do it myself.
Congrats on your 70 Charger, that's one of my favorites. Glad I could help "steer" you in the right direction. ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Great kit! But how to get a perfact level platform to park my car without a jack? Or if it's actually not that much of issue?
Good question... it's not an issue because you zero out the level in front of the tire. Thanks!
Monty love the show! What mufflers did you install? Are you 3” or 2.5” for exhaust?
Thanks! They're currently 2.5" Magnaflow. Might be upgrading to 3" in the future. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks and what specific magnaflow mufflers did you install?
It's the full exhaust kit, I don't think I was given an option for the specific mufflers?@@neallansdowne4043
Very good
Thanks!
Do you know of any good software or apps that you can enter all the measurements into? Thanks!
Not sure... what do you want the app to do?
@@FastMonty I''ve got the quicktrick s5th gen string aligner and I'd like to be able to do a printout something like you'd get from an alignment shop for each vehicle I do.
Ohhhh, got it. Congrats on getting the Stringing Kit. That's a fantastic question I do not know the answer to. Maybe ask QuickTrick? I'm sure they have way more insight on what software is available out there... good luck! @@tamirajohnson5220
Excel
How do you figure out measure thrust angle on a car
Depends on your car... you're going to have to look up your particular spec, and then figure out how that number translates to "offset" from straight. Basically "toe in" for the rear. Hope that helps.
@FastMonty if it's offset will that mess up the track width
@@turbot6592 You asked about thrust angle... using trigonometry you can figure out the toe in required.
YEE !!!!! 🥰
Hawwww!
The meter goes off after 5 minutes or so. Is a total pain to keep turning back on. Is that the way it works?
Thanks David, I honestly don't know what the "timeout" is? Maybe contact QuickTrick to find out? If there's a trick to keep it on longer, let us know! Thanks again for the comment!
You can't attach string to your tool, in that case when you change front alignment it's going to affect rear reading and vice versa
I don't understand what you're saying? Can you explain it differently?
@@FastMontywhen you set up your tool and take the rear ruler reading then change the angle (alignment) of the front wheel then read the rear ruler measurement again you will get two different measurements even though you haven't changed the rear alignment at all. That's why I said you can't attach your string to the tool.
@@michalmmtb7120 Ahhh gotcha. Your front alignment would have to be wayyyy off for that to happen. Even if it was, you straighten the front, then set it up and re-measure the rear. Thanks!
@@FastMontyI don't know if you don't see it or just don't want to see it, but fixing your string this way is not going to give accurate adjustment. There's another issue as well, when you change the tow you move the string mounting point, that means you chance the angle of the string as well as the angle of the wheel. The only way is to mount your string independently on some sort of stands and keep it this way, parallel to you car, for the whole process of alignment.
@@michalmmtb7120 I assure you it won't move it enough in the rear. If it's way off in the front, fix the front, then remeasure. I know how to do traditional stringing, as I did a video on that too. Thanks.
What a sacrilege a GTO without these original rims, old with modern 🤨
Not sure if you're complimenting me, or not? lol
@@FastMonty Sorry I got stuck on this detail which has nothing to do with your very detailed video on Camber . Nice work
@@jarod9365 Ha! No worries! Hope it helped.
I bought the kit and everything is great about it but not impressed with the digital levels and the screw on side bracket. I don’t like the way you check Camber with it. The side of the level is not flat and very inaccurate. A better way is to lay it flat on the upper bar. Way more accurate. Other than that I love the kit. Thanks for the great video.
Yeah, it takes a little bit of practice to get the gauge to sit flush on the short end. Not sure how you'd lay it flat on the upper bar??? please explain. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Yeah seems the short edge would be problematic. It's not as if the short edge is precision machined, looks just like molded plastic.
Q ROLLO LOCOTE!!
Totally Crazy.
More about using the alignment tool and less about your car would be great. Thanks.
A little late for that, don't you think? LOL I discuss my set up, because I have the absolute worst-case scenario, staggered wheels, AND different track width front to rear. Thanks.
I enjoyed his point of view because mentioning about the staggered wheels was actually important. Great video FastMonty 👍
@@saucyvr3031 Agreed! You're the first person to point that out... Staggered adds a couple of variables that would get you in trouble, if you're not aware. Thanks for the comment!
Awesome video, good tool but a bit expensive.....
Thanks Anthony! Yeah, it's more of an investment in your "Good tools to have around the shop". Thanks for the comment!
Man, this guy is bleeding money and free time out of every pore on his body, I am SO jealeous!! Minimum wage and being forced to live modestly are not on this guy's menu...
Ha! Welp, someone's gotta do it, right? Thanks for the comment!
The way that level is held on by that cattywompus bracket is bogus and cheap. They should have welded on a 90 degree ledge for the level to sit on. That rinky dink setup just screams poor quality.
Understandable concern. I kind of like its simplicity and portability. As you know, adding a perfect 90 degree bracket is not easy, and would drive up the cost. (To do it right it would need to be post machined, after welding... that's why it currently registers off of the edge of the digital scale, to ensure it's perfectly flush, and 90 degrees) Thanks for the comment!
Only $1000 for a couple metal bars and rulers? LMAO
Clearly not for you. But, you can start small with just the camber/cast kit.
@@FastMonty I got a camber gauge off ebay for $10 already so good on that. I use 4 jackstands and wrap fishing line around them and use a caliper to measure...works just fine for my needs
It costs 30 euro to do 4 wheel laser alignment with my local tyre centre.
@@rneoman Congrats! Clearly this isn't for you.
@@rneoman This tool is for a guy who is racing his cars and needs to check alignment often.
You know because it happened to you....
Exactly. Thanks.
What about like me I don’t have a lift the car in the garage ?
You don't "Need" a lift. It obviously makes it easier... but, not necessary. Thanks for the comment!
Or I can make this way easier amd not have to spend money it's called a 6 inch level lmao
Go for it. Thanks.
Blah blah more instructions less blah blah
Do I need to do a video on how to use the Fast Forward button? Pretty sure that's why it was invented, for those that are impatient. Thanks.
You talk to much,im looking elsewhere
Play it at 2x. You'll be fine.