Sludge inhibitor date I think was 30/09/15 or 26 expiration 🤣 good job .I have popped a couple of raw eggs in it stopped leaking which gave me a day or so to get new replacement radiator.i can see you are a jack of all trades hopefully more videos to come.
I’m kept busy as usual, I have much more content available for release at 1800 every Friday. I am familiar with the egg radiator fix, I have used it in car radiators and gone to work on a egg on many occasions!
Yes I did put some inhibitor in as shown in the video. I estimate that could have been a 40 plus year magnetite buildup as it had a back boiler in before the recent combi boiler.
Wow, when you take out the radiator and show how dirty was inside, any idea when was the last time someone service them. or how often we must do this kind of job, each 3 years ?
I haven’t got a clue how long the neglect went on for as the house was newly purchased at the time I would guess at several decades! With regular application of central heating conditioner or the use of sludge filter it shouldn’t be necessary to periodically do this.
@@TheRepairer That for your reply, I am in similar position, just moved to a house and no records of services etc, and no magnetic filter, anyway, in my understanding what you did is the best, the magnetic filter only capture metal, you clean the system deeply, and take out limescale, I showed your video to my wife, she was complaining lol due I want to flush and put new inhibitor , I told her, look this video how dirty it is, what we must do, thanks for you video. I will short term put a magnetic filter to my system. It is like buy a used car and trust the previous owner did the oil changes on times. ha, no way. new oil new filter right away.
Why not just introduce a cleaner (FERNOX or SENTINEL) to the system and circulate it, agitate the rads then drain? Add a suitable inhibitor, refill, vent and repressurize….hey Presto
Main's flushing is the worst way to "clean a heating system". There should be a power flush machine and separate magnets connected to the system flushing at 45-55 degrees with a cleaning chemical. individually flushing through each radiator switching the flow and also dumping the water as you go whilst agitating rads. These cold water mains flushes dont remove 50% of the magnetite you need heat and chemical to react with the sludge to loosen it. then at the end of the flush you should be testing Water PH levels and PPM Levels to ensure the levels are correct, also there should be a test to ensure the inhibitor levels are correct. Also should be handed a water quality certificate also a heating system flush certificate..... Theres a water quality course you go on to get certified. (If this step isn't done then the flush you've been paid to do shouldn't of been done as the magnetite and corrosion will just build back up again over time) Personal opinion this should be left to us plumbers/competent person.... the amount of jobs that ive gone to where theyve been "mains flushed" and ive had to do the whole job again that should of been done from the get go is a joke. i feel sorry for the customers the most i've saw people get ripped off so many times and it just brings the quality of the industry down. i see youve had a go and spent a good period of time there but its not correct. sorry if im coming across in the wrong way im just trying to give out advise theres more to flushing than you would think there is. it doesnt look very professional towards a business flushing radiators with a hose
It’s DIY effort that has resulted in a good working central heating system that was previously clogged. The central heating system now has visibly clear water at the radiator bleed screw and I don’t feel the need for a certificate to verify this. I appreciate applying modern kit hot water and chemicals would probably clean them out better. I have used some old techniques that more than likely existed before any of the high tech kit did. I am very pleased with the results and there is a sludge filter inline to further clean the system whilst in operation.
The matter of the facts is you've not done a proper job here and you cant understand why😂 water in a heating system means nothing pal, if that water Ph & PPM levels aren't correct the corrosion is going to come back and effect the system even more. they may be warming up and look clean but i guarantee you if you put that heating system on a cycle for a couple of hours and fully drain it down it will be dirty and black again. if your going to do flushing, Do your water quality day course and a power-flushing day course, grab yourself a proper powerflush machine and some magnets to go with it get the flush done properly and then hand out your customers the correct certification.... you give the customer correct documentation if their boiler breaks down and the manufacturer comes out they will want to see the documentation provided i see this weekly were on average doing 1-2 power-flushes a week
I watched you add an inhibitor yes, but again back to the point of water quality have you checked the inhibitor levels are correct.... my whole point of job not done correctly you don't just throw a bottle of inhibitor in there and think oh i've protected the system youve got to test the ph & ppm levels, i dont understand what your not understanding 😂😂😂
If inhibitor levels aren't correct thats what will cause corrosion aswell, the water wont be neutralised with the inhibitor in and it will be acidic and will just cause further problems don't do a job your not educated in it just ruins the whole industry theres many many people out there who have worked there nuts of to get the qualifications that theyve had for these diy people to go round not doing the work correctly
Not the best way to "clean" a heating system as you havent cleaned the pipe work buddy so what evers left in yhe pipe work will go into the radiator now.
Did you miss the part of the video when I put the combi boiler in fill mode with the hose connected to the central heating drain point in order to flush out the boiler and respective pipe work?
doing a mains flush like you done you should have just cut a drain valve on the flow at the boiler, isolated the flow valve, open the filling loop and do one radiator at a time. No need to remove them off the wall
I have no regrets given the amount of filthy magnetite I got out of them. I know there are easier ways but I think there are advantages to removing and inverting the radiators to flush them totally clear.
Sludge inhibitor date I think was 30/09/15 or 26 expiration 🤣 good job .I have popped a couple of raw eggs in it stopped leaking which gave me a day or so to get new replacement radiator.i can see you are a jack of all trades hopefully more videos to come.
I’m kept busy as usual, I have much more content available for release at 1800 every Friday. I am familiar with the egg radiator fix, I have used it in car radiators and gone to work on a egg on many occasions!
You can get a system cleaner for flushing, add prior to flushing system. Inhibitor is for after cleaning to prevent future corrosion of the system.
I was thinking along the same lines but I guess that didn’t come across in the video, thanks for pointing that out.
Loving your work.
I've considering doing our in the summer and now have a good understanding of what needs to be done.
Keep up the hood work.
Thanks, Summer would
be the best time to do this.
Thats a fairly clean system from what you got flushed out. Hope you put inhibitor back in to prevent the oxide happening again
Yes I did put some inhibitor in as shown in the video. I estimate that could have been a 40 plus year magnetite buildup as it had a back boiler in before the recent combi boiler.
Plenty of good tips. Thank you. Peace and goodwill.
Thanks for the positive feedback Martin it’s always appreciated.
Wow, when you take out the radiator and show how dirty was inside, any idea when was the last time someone service them. or how often we must do this kind of job, each 3 years ?
I haven’t got a clue how long the neglect went on for as the house was newly purchased at the time I would guess at several decades! With regular application of central heating conditioner or the use of sludge filter it shouldn’t be necessary to periodically do this.
@@TheRepairer That for your reply, I am in similar position, just moved to a house and no records of services etc, and no magnetic filter, anyway, in my understanding what you did is the best, the magnetic filter only capture metal, you clean the system deeply, and take out limescale, I showed your video to my wife, she was complaining lol due I want to flush and put new inhibitor , I told her, look this video how dirty it is, what we must do, thanks for you video. I will short term put a magnetic filter to my system. It is like buy a used car and trust the previous owner did the oil changes on times. ha, no way. new oil new filter right away.
What a satisfying video ❤
Thanks.
Why not just introduce a cleaner (FERNOX or SENTINEL) to the system and circulate it, agitate the rads then drain? Add a suitable inhibitor, refill, vent and repressurize….hey Presto
A cleaner wouldn’t remove that volume of sludge.
Main's flushing is the worst way to "clean a heating system".
There should be a power flush machine and separate magnets connected to the system flushing at 45-55 degrees with a cleaning chemical. individually flushing through each radiator switching the flow and also dumping the water as you go whilst agitating rads. These cold water mains flushes dont remove 50% of the magnetite you need heat and chemical to react with the sludge to loosen it.
then at the end of the flush you should be testing Water PH levels and PPM Levels to ensure the levels are correct, also there should be a test to ensure the inhibitor levels are correct. Also should be handed a water quality certificate also a heating system flush certificate..... Theres a water quality course you go on to get certified. (If this step isn't done then the flush you've been paid to do shouldn't of been done as the magnetite and corrosion will just build back up again over time)
Personal opinion this should be left to us plumbers/competent person.... the amount of jobs that ive gone to where theyve been "mains flushed" and ive had to do the whole job again that should of been done from the get go is a joke.
i feel sorry for the customers the most i've saw people get ripped off so many times and it just brings the quality of the industry down.
i see youve had a go and spent a good period of time there but its not correct.
sorry if im coming across in the wrong way im just trying to give out advise theres more to flushing than you would think there is. it doesnt look very professional towards a business flushing radiators with a hose
It’s DIY effort that has resulted in a good working central heating system that was previously clogged.
The central heating system now has visibly clear water at the radiator bleed screw and I don’t feel the need for a certificate to verify this.
I appreciate applying modern kit hot water and chemicals would probably clean them out better.
I have used some old techniques that more than likely existed before any of the high tech kit did.
I am very pleased with the results and there is a sludge filter inline to further clean the system whilst in operation.
The matter of the facts is you've not done a proper job here and you cant understand why😂 water in a heating system means nothing pal, if that water Ph & PPM levels aren't correct the corrosion is going to come back and effect the system even more.
they may be warming up and look clean but i guarantee you if you put that heating system on a cycle for a couple of hours and fully drain it down it will be dirty and black again.
if your going to do flushing, Do your water quality day course and a power-flushing day course, grab yourself a proper powerflush machine and some magnets to go with it get the flush done properly and then hand out your customers the correct certification....
you give the customer correct documentation if their boiler breaks down and the manufacturer comes out they will want to see the documentation provided i see this weekly were on average doing 1-2 power-flushes a week
I have added an inhibitor to the central system as detailed in the video to prevent any future corrosion assuming you watched that far.
I watched you add an inhibitor yes, but again back to the point of water quality have you checked the inhibitor levels are correct.... my whole point of job not done correctly you don't just throw a bottle of inhibitor in there and think oh i've protected the system youve got to test the ph & ppm levels, i dont understand what your not understanding 😂😂😂
If inhibitor levels aren't correct thats what will cause corrosion aswell, the water wont be neutralised with the inhibitor in and it will be acidic and will just cause further problems don't do a job your not educated in it just ruins the whole industry theres many many people out there who have worked there nuts of to get the qualifications that theyve had for these diy people to go round not doing the work correctly
Not the best way to "clean" a heating system as you havent cleaned the pipe work buddy so what evers left in yhe pipe work will go into the radiator now.
Did you miss the part of the video when I put the combi boiler in fill mode with the hose connected to the central heating drain point in order to flush out the boiler and respective pipe work?
doing a mains flush like you done you should have just cut a drain valve on the flow at the boiler, isolated the flow valve, open the filling loop and do one radiator at a time. No need to remove them off the wall
I have no regrets given the amount of filthy magnetite I got out of them. I know there are easier ways but I think there are advantages to removing and inverting the radiators to flush them totally clear.
Hello how do clean the pipe work out.
@vicmills7702 It gets flush when the system get’s drained with the boiler in fill mode.
Or replace all 7
That would be one way of doing it albeit not as economically!