I have an Adey MagnaClean magnetic filter plumbed directly into the pipework and it does a good job of clearing out debris and sludge. It gets cleaned out as part of the annual boiler service.
I have a Spirotrap on an open vented system. I remove a couple of litres every year to clear it out and then I top up the X100 inhibitor. It gives a good indication on the health of the CH flow.
I fitted one of those Fernox filters with the magnet and always put a bottle or 2 of Fernox F1 inhibitor into the system for winter, 25 years later and the radiators are still going strong.
I replaced all my radiators over a couple of years as I decorated each room. I flushed the system snot three time with a garden hose, the crap coming out each time was unbelievable. I’d love to give it the professional flush one day.
My windows frosted on the inside growing up. I slept with only my nose and mouth uncovered. Still have trouble dealing with being cold. The bathroom didn't get insulated for 20 years, it had a venting roof and was an addition. Nobody knew they ripped some of the exterior off so the wind got in the cavity between the floors and swept through. The radiator, yes this includes it, it had an inaccessible valve up the wall you could only reach from the crawlspace and it was half shut or more for 5 years, the whole time I was living there. No air bleeders either. Hard to express how terrible it is to never be warm. I was just there for Thanksgiving and it feels like a different house. I'm the one who fixed all those things after I left home. Cost about 600, bleeders a fair bit of that. Nobody worried about the pipes with "Cal-Gone" in it. Hexa-whatever.
I wish you had made this a few years ago while I was still plumbing. Regarding making leaks happen I know someone whose corroded pipes under a concrete floor started to leak....
I thought you had retired Roger, never realised you were still out and about getting dirty hands or is this an old video electronically remastered from B/W to colour?? 😂😂😂😂 I remember the demo model of the Magnaflo gadget that sat on the clunter of the plumbers merchants donkeys years ago, you shook the clear jar of liquid then it went black until you pressed a button and all the black stuff suddenly stuck to a magnetic core and the liquid became clear. I have used one of these devices for years, I did a recent tap pressure flush a couple of months ago to individual rads and they are still clear, but stuff stuck to the magnet, brilliant invention that, wish I could have thought of it 40 years ago. Good video btw. 👍👍👍
Been thinking about getting my system power flushed. A) had nfi how much it would've cost B) didn't know you could hire the machine C) great that its a DiY job as I love a DIY
My old mum had this done a couple of years ago when she had a new boiler fitted Roger, the magnet was actually inside that drum and not a separate unit, I was staggered at the amount of black rust the magnet collected, it must've been three times its original size, definitely well worth doing.
@@Google_Does_Evil_Nowmy same curiosity led me to this www.google.com/search?q=sds+radiator+bit&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&sca_esv=bea450f5934b94aa&udm=7&biw=412&bih=760&ei=fj9CZ56kApG4i-gPxoXOgAc&oq=sds+radiator+bit&gs_lp=Ehltb2JpbGUtZ3dzLW1vZGVsZXNzLXZpZGVvIhBzZHMgcmFkaWF0b3IgYml0MgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGJ8FMgUQIRifBTIFECEYnwUyBRAhGJ8FMgUQIRifBTIFECEYnwVI1BhQ9gZYuxZwAHgAkAEAmAGPAaAB6QOqAQMzLjK4AQPIAQD4AQGYAgWgAowEwgILEAAYgAQYsAMYogTCAgsQABiwAxiiBBiJBcICCxAAGIAEGJECGIoFwgIFEAAYgATCAgYQABgWGB7CAggQABiABBiiBJgDAIgGAZAGBZIHAzMuMqAHohU&sclient=mobile-gws-modeless-video#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f95061e1,vid:zkGlRzSgUuk,st:0
@@Google_Does_Evil_Nowdislodges all the Magnatite sitting inside the radiator and knocks it off thus allowing to pump around the system back to powerflush rig/Magna clean filter.
I'll give this a go. In a previous house i dumped x800 in and left it for a couple of hours circulating, then flushed it through using the fill valve, then refilled with inhibitor. Seemed to do rhe trick, without a machine. Would like to try and do it "properly" in this house though, my magnaclean is pure filth.
Thanks Roger; very interesting. Been wanting to do this to my Edwardian house for years. British Gas wanted £2k to do it so I didn’t go ahead. Any recommendations for someone to undertake this in the Banstead area?
The last 2 oil boilers I fitted recently had to word of having to powerflush the system for the guarantee to hold, they just state that the system must be cleaned when putting onto an existing system. And there are plenty chemical cleaners out there that help dissolve that horrible gunk and can be done in a morning. The biggest problem is DIYers not putting inhibitor into the heating system after doing a flush or plumbers not adding it after repairing a leak
hired the same model from Travis years ago, but they dont hire out anymore. a few local hire places dont either as said a lot of people end up breaking the machines.
I had a local CH firm come to fit an extra rad, I asked about power flushing, they said they do it rad by rad, I questioned this because I thought it was a whole system flush.
Great video - I;ve noticed when I bleed my radiators the water coming out is quite creamy, would this suggest gunk? all rads, boiler and pipework are only 14 months old.
I would seal off the feed and vent and put mains pressure through the circuits. I have also done it with compressed air. it blows all kinds of crap out.
@ Up until now I’ve been draining the system Cleaning the tank Then fill and drain fill and drain then re dosing inhibitors I’ll give your method a try Thanks
@SkillBuilder I tried this method and didn't get such a good result. With the hoover on i opened 1 rad bleed valve at a time and cleaned them out individually. From Luke warm to red hot now. I think the heating system hasn't been touched since the 70s.
The p-poor system in my house ‘can’t have inhibitor’ so I now the boiler needs replacing I have the decision as to replacing the rads, tank etc. to make it a conventional set up or junking it in entirety for air to air. Question: are the copper pipes likely to need replacement, or is it mainly the steel side that corrodes?
Can you put a big magnet (or an electric coil) permanently somewhere near the bottom of the pipe circuit ? Is trapping the magnetite as it runs normally an option?
@@chrishb7074 if you have a magnaclean or similar filter there's no need? Or you can add a radmag to your towel rad if you want. Plus x400 yearly or twice yearly. That's keeping me going until I can be bothered to do what's in this video
Would have been useful to see where you connected it to. I assumed you connected to the filter on the system but what would you do if you don't have one? 🤔
The weakness with power flushing is the worst ‘gunk’ is at the bottom of the large double radiator. Because the circulation takes the path of least resistance, the areas most in need of flushing tend to be the least flushed. Even if the water level is lowered to these radiators to force circulation along the bottom, because there are 2 routes the most needy panel is bypassed Agitation with vibration helps this. But at the end of the day, so much time is spent doing this you are better off prodding and hoovering these areas with the radiator isolated In short, the areas most in need are not flushed and vice versa. Better than not doing a flush obviously but you are relying on operator competence and diligence.
Roger, Can you powerflush on a (for example) combi system without having to change/cut pipework? And if so, where would you connect in? Maybe you’d connect to the furthest rad and the point where the filling loop is? Cheers
@ I’m a capable guy having worked on all sorts of systems ie truck air systems, cooling systems. I’m a qualified truck technician, turned builder. But, every day is a school day. It’s good to get advice from guys who know their stuff.
Magnacleanse much more convenient during a boiler install. Power cleaner left overnight, or Thoroughflush for those really filthy blocked up systems after a few days to a week of power cleaner. Got both and have absolutely no need for a traditional power flush unit👍🏻
And a battery powered tyre inflator, with various fittings to unblock clogged up rad tails. Even used a modified waterpick tooth cleaner on very stubborn blocked rad tails to get flow and let the cleaner do it's job.
Problem can be the system circulation pump has nowhere near the velocity/pressure of a powerflush machine which helps carry the sludge /debris out of the system example being it accumulates at the bottom of radiators and the flow of water passes over the sludge instead of carrying it with it but hey each to there own take care 😊
@jamescarter1088 do you pre treat the system before mains fush as you can't circulate the chemicals with mains we used to use fx2 on bad systems but that stuff is brutal and needs neutralising all the best mate
What happens with open vented systems? I just used our mains pressurre and closed of all the radiator valves oppenning just one then lettin it flow ot of the lowest point.
Thing is its time consuming and your paying plumbers rates for a job a non plumber can do. There's always overlap in trades like sweeping up at the end of the day that the customer pays for.
I've done many powerflush and didn't see hardly anything bad coming out EXCEPT for one system which was open vented non pressured radiator system fed from a feeder tank in the loft without a lid and the water was pitch black for hours I couldn't believe it. Everywhere else there was tiny amount of sludge if u can even cal it that. I think the power flush machine should be pressurised to do some actual work maybe 3 bar or 4bar.
Our approach to central heating water treatment is completely wrong. Europeans work to VDI2035 standards (drastically reducing conductivity of water) and their systems are much cleaner with zero inhibitor. I guess sludge has commercial benefits for us though 😂
It’s so time consuming and expensive I honestly believe the money may be better spent replacing problem radiators where needed Whilst the radiator is off you can also flush pipes to it to the outside using mains pressure £2k will replace several large doubles Add a power flush to a boiler replacement and you are out priced most likely
@@SkillBuilder Into the 'flow' you think that's useful? I'll just solder a T piece into a pipe with flow...oh thats right they all do... The 'return'...Oh yeh I have a connection sticking out of my wall marked 'return', burke.
This isn't a thorough and comprehensive guide to flushing. It doesn't account for the many different systems, boilers, pipework, ways of flushing, even heating valves (not all valves have 'balls'). It is merely a snapshot. I certainly wouldn't attempt it as an amateur based off this video. Also, hitting radiators with a mallet or sds attachment is something which should be done on every flush to help agitate the sludge build up in radiators yet it is barely touched upon in this video.
I wouldn't recommend hitting the rust of the inside of the radiator because it might spring a leak. If a professional does it fine but we have to be careful about leading people into difficult territory.
Because the rust will often come away and cause a leak and more blockages. If you are a pro you can handle the problems but if you are a DIYer you are looking for an improvement not perfection. Manage the risk.
Yeah not the best advice imo. There is a reason why we charge what we do. Far too many pitfalls you might encounter when flushing for your average Joe.
I have done many jobs with mains pressure but in this house it is only 1.5 bar on an old lead main so it isn't great for that job. If you see what the big mag filter pulls out of the system combined with some chemical flush I think you will be hard pressed to beat it with a 1.5 bar main and low flow. As you know it is the velocity of the water that you need to clear the sludge. BTW not everything from the past is bad. I think you were probably born around 1990.
@@SkillBuilder mains pump for through flush is good enough with 12l/min. We have now completely stopped using any chemicals for cleaning and we do not use any inhibitor - both are causing havoc on heating systems. In 1990s I was sadly already old enough to drive
@@psi10001, you have to pump that water through the system in any case, power flush or no power flush. The trouble with power flush is - you can never get all the cleaning chems fully out - they cause havoc on the system, and so the cycle repeats a few years down the line.
Don’t power flush push fit plumbed heating unless you want to rip some walls down. In fact, I would only ever Magna Flush, never ever power flush…. I’m just not a gambler.
I bet he never thought he’d one day be encouraging people to take work away from his fellow plumbers because plumbers have to charge enough to keep their business running. Sad 😔
I have been in this game long enough to know that British Gas and their like talk people into having power flushes and charge a fortune for what is actually a very simple job. Boiler manufacturers also say that the warranty is void if the system is not clean. There is plenty of scope for plumbers to make a good living from power flushing without ripping people off, £800 is taking the piss.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
I have an Adey MagnaClean magnetic filter plumbed directly into the pipework and it does a good job of clearing out debris and sludge. It gets cleaned out as part of the annual boiler service.
Yes that’s what should be fitted standard on any new boiler
I have a Spirotrap on an open vented system. I remove a couple of litres every year to clear it out and then I top up the X100 inhibitor. It gives a good indication on the health of the CH flow.
That is a great bit of knowledge, many thanks Roger and team.
I fitted one of those Fernox filters with the magnet and always put a bottle or 2 of Fernox F1 inhibitor into the system for winter, 25 years later and the radiators are still going strong.
I replaced all my radiators over a couple of years as I decorated each room. I flushed the system snot three time with a garden hose, the crap coming out each time was unbelievable.
I’d love to give it the professional flush one day.
I did the same, when I had a new boiler installed along with a professional flush hardly anything came out.
another good one Rodger
Really? What did you learn?
Our hero, Roger Bisby! xD
My windows frosted on the inside growing up. I slept with only my nose and mouth uncovered.
Still have trouble dealing with being cold. The bathroom didn't get insulated for 20 years, it had a venting roof and was an addition. Nobody knew they ripped some of the exterior off so the wind got in the cavity between the floors and swept through.
The radiator, yes this includes it, it had an inaccessible valve up the wall you could only reach from the crawlspace and it was half shut or more for 5 years, the whole time I was living there. No air bleeders either.
Hard to express how terrible it is to never be warm. I was just there for Thanksgiving and it feels like a different house. I'm the one who fixed all those things after I left home. Cost about 600, bleeders a fair bit of that. Nobody worried about the pipes with "Cal-Gone" in it. Hexa-whatever.
I wish you had made this a few years ago while I was still plumbing.
Regarding making leaks happen I know someone whose corroded pipes under a concrete floor started to leak....
I thought you had retired Roger, never realised you were still out and about getting dirty hands or is this an old video electronically remastered from B/W to colour?? 😂😂😂😂
I remember the demo model of the Magnaflo gadget that sat on the clunter of the plumbers merchants donkeys years ago, you shook the clear jar of liquid then it went black until you pressed a button and all the black stuff suddenly stuck to a magnetic core and the liquid became clear. I have used one of these devices for years, I did a recent tap pressure flush a couple of months ago to individual rads and they are still clear, but stuff stuck to the magnet, brilliant invention that, wish I could have thought of it 40 years ago.
Good video btw. 👍👍👍
Been thinking about getting my system power flushed.
A) had nfi how much it would've cost
B) didn't know you could hire the machine
C) great that its a DiY job as I love a DIY
Cracking piece of kit 🧱👍🏽
My old mum had this done a couple of years ago when she had a new boiler fitted Roger, the magnet was actually inside that drum and not a separate unit, I was staggered at the amount of black rust the magnet collected, it must've been three times its original size, definitely well worth doing.
I'm 59 and never had a Colonic 😄
I've seen vids of plumbers vibrating radiators with SDS hammer drill
yes you can get an SDS attachment to bang radiators. It is a good way to find leaks
Seriously, you can use a hammer drill to bang a radiator? Why?
Need to see this!
@@Google_Does_Evil_Nowmy same curiosity led me to this
www.google.com/search?q=sds+radiator+bit&client=ms-android-samsung-ss&sca_esv=bea450f5934b94aa&udm=7&biw=412&bih=760&ei=fj9CZ56kApG4i-gPxoXOgAc&oq=sds+radiator+bit&gs_lp=Ehltb2JpbGUtZ3dzLW1vZGVsZXNzLXZpZGVvIhBzZHMgcmFkaWF0b3IgYml0MgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGJ8FMgUQIRifBTIFECEYnwUyBRAhGJ8FMgUQIRifBTIFECEYnwVI1BhQ9gZYuxZwAHgAkAEAmAGPAaAB6QOqAQMzLjK4AQPIAQD4AQGYAgWgAowEwgILEAAYgAQYsAMYogTCAgsQABiwAxiiBBiJBcICCxAAGIAEGJECGIoFwgIFEAAYgATCAgYQABgWGB7CAggQABiABBiiBJgDAIgGAZAGBZIHAzMuMqAHohU&sclient=mobile-gws-modeless-video#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:f95061e1,vid:zkGlRzSgUuk,st:0
@@Google_Does_Evil_Nowdislodges all the Magnatite sitting inside the radiator and knocks it off thus allowing to pump around the system back to powerflush rig/Magna clean filter.
@@barryckemp907 Love Rogers vids but I'm surprised he didn't cover this simple but vital procedure 🤷🏾♂️
I'll give this a go. In a previous house i dumped x800 in and left it for a couple of hours circulating, then flushed it through using the fill valve, then refilled with inhibitor. Seemed to do rhe trick, without a machine. Would like to try and do it "properly" in this house though, my magnaclean is pure filth.
Yes we might try that in the next video. It works.
Thanks Roger; very interesting. Been wanting to do this to my Edwardian house for years. British Gas wanted £2k to do it so I didn’t go ahead. Any recommendations for someone to undertake this in the Banstead area?
Yeah !
The last 2 oil boilers I fitted recently had to word of having to powerflush the system for the guarantee to hold, they just state that the system must be cleaned when putting onto an existing system. And there are plenty chemical cleaners out there that help dissolve that horrible gunk and can be done in a morning.
The biggest problem is DIYers not putting inhibitor into the heating system after doing a flush or plumbers not adding it after repairing a leak
Happy birthday Roger
hired the same model from Travis years ago, but they dont hire out anymore. a few local hire places dont either as said a lot of people end up breaking the machines.
I had a local CH firm come to fit an extra rad, I asked about power flushing, they said they do it rad by rad, I questioned this because I thought it was a whole system flush.
Great video - I;ve noticed when I bleed my radiators the water coming out is quite creamy, would this suggest gunk? all rads, boiler and pipework are only 14 months old.
Creamy sounds like flux or some kind of additive. Is the pipework all copper?
I've done a DIY flush using just a hose from a tap. Decent mains pressure did get a lot of junk out the system. 😬
is it OK to do on open vented systems?
yes but you need to close off the vent and cold feed
2:28 the stuff you drop down the stairs if you’re rushing around!!
I’ve an Open system with microbore pipework
Been advised against a power flush
I would seal off the feed and vent and put mains pressure through the circuits. I have also done it with compressed air. it blows all kinds of crap out.
@
Up until now I’ve been draining the system
Cleaning the tank
Then fill and drain fill and drain then re dosing inhibitors
I’ll give your method a try
Thanks
I put a wet and dry vacuum on the pipe work after I drained the system and got tar out the pipes. 8 buckets full I got. I can't touch the rads now.
That is a good idea, I have done a similar thing by blowing systems out with compressed air.
@SkillBuilder I tried this method and didn't get such a good result. With the hoover on i opened 1 rad bleed valve at a time and cleaned them out individually. From Luke warm to red hot now. I think the heating system hasn't been touched since the 70s.
The p-poor system in my house ‘can’t have inhibitor’ so I now the boiler needs replacing I have the decision as to replacing the rads, tank etc. to make it a conventional set up or junking it in entirety for air to air. Question: are the copper pipes likely to need replacement, or is it mainly the steel side that corrodes?
I am surprised you didn’t pump through the boiler and drain off the lower rads too.
Can you put a big magnet (or an electric coil) permanently somewhere near the bottom of the pipe circuit ? Is trapping the magnetite as it runs normally an option?
@@chrishb7074 if you have a magnaclean or similar filter there's no need? Or you can add a radmag to your towel rad if you want. Plus x400 yearly or twice yearly. That's keeping me going until I can be bothered to do what's in this video
I have half microbore (downstairs) and normal pipes upstairs- OIL combi boiler 2021 - would flushing still be suitable?
yes, you could even try doing it with a hose pipe from the garden tap. It might be better on microbore to have more pressure
When was it last flushed
Nobody knows and that is the problem. The boiler manufacturers are insistant on power flushing so it sometimes gets done for no reason.
How on earth do you push water through a sealed ch system an bypass the boiler?
I just showed you how
Would have been useful to see where you connected it to. I assumed you connected to the filter on the system but what would you do if you don't have one? 🤔
I think you can see where it is connected to but any 22mm flow and return will do.
The weakness with power flushing is the worst ‘gunk’ is at the bottom of the large double radiator. Because the circulation takes the path of least resistance, the areas most in need of flushing tend to be the least flushed. Even if the water level is lowered to these radiators to force circulation along the bottom, because there are 2 routes the most needy panel is bypassed
Agitation with vibration helps this. But at the end of the day, so much time is spent doing this you are better off prodding and hoovering these areas with the radiator isolated
In short, the areas most in need are not flushed and vice versa. Better than not doing a flush obviously but you are relying on operator competence and diligence.
So this can be done at home ourselves?
If you have a basic knowledge and skills. If not hire a plumber but at least you can see what is involved.
@SkillBuilder this has been a great help Roger. Thank you so much for all the invaluable info
How often should you powerflush your system? I had a new install 3yrs ago and used inhibitor + magnet, so not expecting it to be just yet 😊
I am not sure it will ever need powerflushing if you have inhibitor and a mag filter.
Roger,
Can you powerflush on a (for example) combi system without having to change/cut pipework? And if so, where would you connect in?
Maybe you’d connect to the furthest rad and the point where the filling loop is?
Cheers
Take the pump out and use a Kamco head adapter, that’s the only way to do a thorough job 👊🏻
@ I’m a capable guy having worked on all sorts of systems ie truck air systems, cooling systems. I’m a qualified truck technician, turned builder.
But, every day is a school day. It’s good to get advice from guys who know their stuff.
Yes just connect where you can. I have done it on a rad before but 22mm is best.
Richard
I have a head adaptor. It is no better than getting on the 22mm and in a combi it means you are flusing through the boiler.
@@SkillBuilderincorrect proceedure
And the call a real plumber when you have leaks all over the gaf 😂
Magnacleanse much more convenient during a boiler install. Power cleaner left overnight, or Thoroughflush for those really filthy blocked up systems after a few days to a week of power cleaner. Got both and have absolutely no need for a traditional power flush unit👍🏻
And a battery powered tyre inflator, with various fittings to unblock clogged up rad tails. Even used a modified waterpick tooth cleaner on very stubborn blocked rad tails to get flow and let the cleaner do it's job.
Good luck to the non plumbers 👍🏻
Problem can be the system circulation pump has nowhere near the velocity/pressure of a powerflush machine which helps carry the sludge /debris out of the system example being it accumulates at the bottom of radiators and the flow of water passes over the sludge instead of carrying it with it but hey each to there own take care 😊
@@galaxydave69 Oh it works Dave you should try it. And the Thoroughflush doesnt need a pump as it uses mains mate👍🏻
@jamescarter1088 do you pre treat the system before mains fush as you can't circulate the chemicals with mains we used to use fx2 on bad systems but that stuff is brutal and needs neutralising all the best mate
What happens with open vented systems? I just used our mains pressurre and closed of all the radiator valves oppenning just one then lettin it flow ot of the lowest point.
Mains works well in many cases. You always need to cap off the f&E tank in the loft.
Boiler keeps dumping water, probably got air getting in, can i use a leak sealer to seal any small leaks in a combi boiler set up ??????
it may just be that the expansion vessel needs pumping up
Also worth taking the TRV heads off and checking your TRV stem seals are not leaking
@@paulwinter9845 Thanks, but i changed all the valves last year, system was working faultless last year.
One of my rads gets hot but the return pipe is always cold, maybe sludged up?
Try opening the valves up on both end and turning some of the other radiators off to see if it wil push through.
Thing is its time consuming and your paying plumbers rates for a job a non plumber can do. There's always overlap in trades like sweeping up at the end of the day that the customer pays for.
We’re aiming to make it a separate trade , train people properly on how to do a specialist job 👊🏻
@@RichardKnight-b7nthat doesn't make it a trade, a skill maybe (like tiling) but it surely won't be considered a trade.
Until it goes wrong mate 😂😂😂
Well done Roger the guy who changed my boiler flooded my lounge, water poured through the ceiling.
Was that me?
@@SkillBuilder not you Roger, the guy even tried to say it was not his power flush machine that caused it !
I've done many powerflush and didn't see hardly anything bad coming out EXCEPT for one system which was open vented non pressured radiator system fed from a feeder tank in the loft without a lid and the water was pitch black for hours I couldn't believe it. Everywhere else there was tiny amount of sludge if u can even cal it that. I think the power flush machine should be pressurised to do some actual work maybe 3 bar or 4bar.
So you need to disconnect your flow and return from the boiler and make connections for the power flusher first before you can do this?
There are lots of ways to do it, You can use one radiator or the mag filter or just put in two tees.
@ thanks. I don’t have a mag filter so I’ll have to go the radiator route.
I expect you mean putting one end of the hose on the flow into the rad and the other on the lockshield end?@@SkillBuilder
Should i open all the trvs and lockshields to full bore to help flow?
Yes if you can but count the turns on the lockshields
❤
Radiators shouldn't be left to rust. Inhibitor must be used to de oxygenate the water.
Our approach to central heating water treatment is completely wrong. Europeans work to VDI2035 standards (drastically reducing conductivity of water) and their systems are much cleaner with zero inhibitor. I guess sludge has commercial benefits for us though 😂
Hello, my name is... Roger Bisby.
22mm ready for a heat pump.
It’s so time consuming and expensive I honestly believe the money may be better spent replacing problem radiators where needed
Whilst the radiator is off you can also flush pipes to it to the outside using mains pressure
£2k will replace several large doubles
Add a power flush to a boiler replacement and you are out priced most likely
Watch these things with speedfit fittings... Plastic 10mm pipes may not be that easy to flush with these machines
What was the point of that if you dont show where you connected it, we learned nothing!!?
Watch it again when you are properly awake
@@SkillBuilder Into the 'flow' you think that's useful? I'll just solder a T piece into a pipe with flow...oh thats right they all do...
The 'return'...Oh yeh I have a connection sticking out of my wall marked 'return', burke.
This isn't a thorough and comprehensive guide to flushing.
It doesn't account for the many different systems, boilers, pipework, ways of flushing, even heating valves (not all valves have 'balls').
It is merely a snapshot.
I certainly wouldn't attempt it as an amateur based off this video.
Also, hitting radiators with a mallet or sds attachment is something which should be done on every flush to help agitate the sludge build up in radiators yet it is barely touched upon in this video.
I wouldn't recommend hitting the rust of the inside of the radiator because it might spring a leak. If a professional does it fine but we have to be careful about leading people into difficult territory.
@SkillBuilder It helps dislodge stubborn build up. Why wouldn't you recommend it? Otherwise it's not a thorough job.
Because the rust will often come away and cause a leak and more blockages. If you are a pro you can handle the problems but if you are a DIYer you are looking for an improvement not perfection. Manage the risk.
@@SkillBuilder I was about to suggest a little caveat to your description but you've quite literally covered all bases so credit where it's due.
Im working late because I'm a sinner
Sorry mate i spelt your name wrong i should go back to school not 👍😆
Everyone spells it like that, it is not a problem at all.
Yeah not the best advice imo. There is a reason why we charge what we do.
Far too many pitfalls you might encounter when flushing for your average Joe.
British Gas just quoted £2,000 for a powerfush. There is a reason they charge what they do
Power Flushing is sooo 1990 mate. Come to the light with thorough flush and ditch the useless power flush machines
I have done many jobs with mains pressure but in this house it is only 1.5 bar on an old lead main so it isn't great for that job.
If you see what the big mag filter pulls out of the system combined with some chemical flush I think you will be hard pressed to beat it with a 1.5 bar main and low flow. As you know it is the velocity of the water that you need to clear the sludge.
BTW not everything from the past is bad. I think you were probably born around 1990.
Not if you have a crap mains, or extremely high water pressure!
1000+ litres of fresh drinking water straight down the drain isn't what I'd expect a heat pump advocate to be suggesting!
@@SkillBuilder mains pump for through flush is good enough with 12l/min. We have now completely stopped using any chemicals for cleaning and we do not use any inhibitor - both are causing havoc on heating systems.
In 1990s I was sadly already old enough to drive
@@psi10001, you have to pump that water through the system in any case, power flush or no power flush.
The trouble with power flush is - you can never get all the cleaning chems fully out - they cause havoc on the system, and so the cycle repeats a few years down the line.
Don’t power flush push fit plumbed heating unless you want to rip some walls down. In fact, I would only ever Magna Flush, never ever power flush…. I’m just not a gambler.
I bet he never thought he’d one day be encouraging people to take work away from his fellow plumbers because plumbers have to charge enough to keep their business running. Sad 😔
I have been in this game long enough to know that British Gas and their like talk people into having power flushes and charge a fortune for what is actually a very simple job. Boiler manufacturers also say that the warranty is void if the system is not clean.
There is plenty of scope for plumbers to make a good living from power flushing without ripping people off, £800 is taking the piss.
You can't take work from a reputable decent plumber,
This 100% @@bertram6934
@@SkillBuildercan't wait to fix all the problems you've created now when Mr smith trys to flush his open system with out capping the FnE tank...
@@bertram6934 oh, stop being a victim. Everyone is responsible for their own life.
Rust (hematite) is Fe²O³ and magnatite is Fe³O⁴.
Black rust is due to the lack of oxygen in the radiator system oil filled radiators don't have this problem
He is also right about some plumbers taking the piss