@@UrbanPlumbers Please be so kind as to see my hack and question in the root of comments on this video -- I just remembered another I saw in CF30 machine instructions: You can put a magnet up to a copper pipe and 'feel' black magnetite inside that way (but not brown organic stuff!).
When I did this job I had a drill with chisel function(no rotation hammer) with a nylon hammer bit to remove hardened deposits in radiators, I also had a Kamco magnet in circuit it saved time at each job. I also had a pump adapter for easy connection via circulation pump. Great explanation of how kamco CF90 works.
Hi…..just about to hire someone to do this procedure……video tutorial was brilliant……I will sound like I know what I’m talking about now when they do it……!!…🤣……Many thanks….
I've been using a Kamco over 20 years. Powerflushing as you pointed out about flow rates primarily. Choice of the right chemicals is paramount. Utilising magnetic flushing kits (magnaclean, Kamco or others) I have found used in conjunction is the best way; when the magnets are clean, you know your finished! Have seen lots of 'professional' videos of the alternatives you mention,but you know and I know they are inadequate methods, even on relatively recent boiler replacements! Until boiler manafactures insist on the relevant standards being followed and documented, it's too easy for installers to kid themselves and customers they've done a "proper job". First class educational video,puts all the other shortcut merchants to shame!!!
John, thank you for kind words! It is really appreciated. Kamco is an excellent machine. I used to have Magnacleanse and was rather disappointed at how useless that was compared to a proper machine. Trying to flush with mains or magnacleanse is just pretending you are doing a full job. Having said that, there are systems that do not need to be flushed.
@@UrbanPlumbers Nothing to do with kind words. You absolutely nailed the argument for power flushing against the poor alternatives that others attempt to justify!
Excellent video as usual, if I may add its a great idea if you can talk the customer into having new radiator valves because you can come unstuck with old siezed up valves especially when using Kamco FX2
With many new boilers adding a magnetic filter will extend the blr guarantee for 10 years! In fact most new blr manufacturers insist on one being fitted.
Interesting video. You don't mention opening up the individual lock shield valves fully to flush each radiator individually (after noting LS valve position). LS valves can be quite closed down when system was originally balanced. When I cleaned my system I did it the old fashioned way, taking each radiator out into the garden and flushing with a garden hose, this is ok except for the weight of large double radiators if working on your own. Then I ran the CH with a Fernox non acidic cleaner hot for 20 - 30 minutes (old Thorn radiators that are now 44 years old (1978) ..... in fact the entire system I inherited was Thorn, the boiler a floor standing Thorn `M' and Thorn radiators .... back when we made a lot of stuff in the UK). The radiators are a nice open design without fins, not prone to being clogged with dust & cobwebs. I thought you were Italian, I was way off 😁
Nice job, we do it that way when my apprentice is here cleans the top manifold,plug & vents thoroughly. Dodgy lockshields are replaced as a matter of course. Not a great fan of power flushing bur my apprentice loves our new Kamco.
As a consumer and sometimes DIY'r, I love seeing videos like these, so thoroughly well explained and executed. Can you come up to Glasgow and do my house! :-)
@@UrbanPlumbers Can u come to Germany ? I show u Systems, 40 years old, never flushed, with absolutely no problems, and verry clean water.... In 35 years of servicing Heating systems, there was not much need to flush systems. but if there was a need, it was a underfloor heating system. what the hell is going on with our heating systems on the island ?
@@Ratzfaz same in Poland - no need for flushing at all. The issues are numerous - incorrectly installed systems, systems not fluhsed after installation, open vent systems, system not designed correctly and hugely over pumped, etc... The list goes on and on. Also Germany and Poland do not use inhibitors.
This is a great guide. I have a question with regards the direction. You've connected across the filter, if you change the direction won't it go through the pump in the wrong direction?
@UrbanPlumbers Interesting hack to share, In my case reconnecting own' system I actually put an "inspection joint" for now above feed to HW coil with a little dogleg of pipe and some speedfit 22mm right angle joints, SO will be able to actually drain and *see* if whatever I've done is actually working on this one bit of the pipework where seem to have accumulated the worst gunk and there appears to be poor thermal-transfer into HW-cylinder. There is/was a semi-loose black-lining there; finger can shift it but it didn't appear to be coming out in strong-magnets used in combination with CF30 flushing machine. If I've used the MC3+ (in for many weeks, heated, powerflushed for many days) inside the HW-coil 22mm pipes that barely comes off -- is it even worth trying F5/X800 -or- should I go straight to Kamco-X2 / Fernox-DS40 [acidic cleaners] which have to be neutralized and not put on plate heat exchangers etc etc!!! ? I NOTE I could actually isolate the boiler and just flush that HW-coil feed in that case ... Another hack mentioned in CF30 flushing manual: You can also use a Magnet to sense Magnetite (black) in the pipes. In any case thank you for the excellent video and I'd greatly appreciate any views you have!!.
@UrbanPlumbers Excellent video! I'm doing my first powerflush tomorrow on a 15 year old system that hasn't been touched so I'm hopeful of good results. One question - my boiler has the circulating pump built into it (it's an MCZ pellet boiler). If I turn on the boiler and get it up to temperature, when I use the power flush machine at the same time as per your video, when I switch the flow back and forward, wont's that fight against the circulating pump? If so, will this damage it? There may also be an issue with a mix-down valve that provides back-end protection on the biomass boiler by creating an in-boiler circulation of 55 degrees, but I'll look at that tomorrow!
great video. i have a two zone S plan + connected via my worcester 42 kw combi bolier. i intend to powerfush the system via my magna flow. my question is do i power flush through the unvented cylnder as well or shut off the zone valve . mant thanks Duncan
When I was an apprentice this was basically my job… must have powerflushed over 1000 systems 😂 we had the kamco, now I don’t do installs I’m a commercial service engineer
One of the best videos that i have watched. very very clear instructions. I DIYed by boiler and works a treat. i have a question -> the pressure dropped on the opposite flow... is that normal? in the normal flow (boiler's normal flow) the pressure was ok but everytime i changed the flow it dropped. So i could only switch on one side for a few seconds and the flow would stop.
Great video. I've been Powerflushing for years now but started to use a thoroughflush machine as it's mains pressure flush and quicker and easier to use. Definitely worth a look at one. Haven't touched my Powerflush machine in a year now lol Also I always agitate the radiators using a kamco agitator tool which will clear all the stubborn particles in the system.
@@lewisneal7367 how does it work when you get below 10L / minute from the mains - must take ages to flush? Water may run clean, but there surely is no way it can shift dirt as such a low flow rates?
@@UrbanPlumbers that's where I use my powerflush or you can add a pump onto the mains pipe to boost the pressure. I was thinking of getting a salamander mains boost and add it to the cold mains to the machine.
@@lewisneal7367 I thought of getting salamadner home boost for low flow areas as well to pump clean water quicker to my PF machine. Still it only is 12L / min
Great video, just have two questions (apprentice): 1. If you’re flushing a system and not installing a new boiler, is there not a potential for the heat exchanger to get blocked or damaged ? 2. When you turned the boiler on to heat the water as the machine was circulating the water, does the machine pump not fight against the boiler pump when in reverse ? Thanks
Excellent video, would it be safe to say, when you put the boiler on to heat the water & the powerflush is also on, the powerflush circulation has to be in the same direction as the boilers circulation?
Great video.. I’ve just bought a power flush machine but a bit nervous about using it (I use Magnacleanse at the moment) Just a couple of questions ; 1. When you fill the system to 1.5bar via the boiler filling loop how does it not overflow through the hole in the front where you add the chemicals? 2. When you had the boiler turned on and the machine turned on at the same time I assume you need the flow from the machine running in the same direction as the boiler and you can’t reverse it whilst it’s in operation ? 3. When you’re reverse flowing the PF machine through the boiler could it potentially damage the boiler if it has non return valves fitted in it ? Or do you need to isolate the boiler? Thank you 🙏🏼😊
Good questions, shame Urban didn't answer.. We prefer hand washing, most thorough clean when valves need replacing. If power flusher on ground level & outside Best in case of a flood. Turning pump off can empty into power flusher and overflow not while pumping. Always best with 2 people at first to keep an eye on everything. Some old jobs I would not risk using a power flush, bad joints, rusty rads, pin holes on the back etc..
Yes while heating with boiler pump running correct circulation must be observed. Another disadvantage not able to reverse. But in video it was a newish boiler Intergas Rapid. Our favourite boiler. I would power flush system alone, then boiler if required and heat if required, constant heat not needed.
I’ve seen some use a rubber attachment on a hammer drill for easier & better agitation of sludge as well as use of an infrared thermometer to identify particularly bad areas. Great vid as always.
Been plumbing and heating for 21 years now done flushing since day 1.my anton machine was terrible so got the throughflush but that didn't touch the dirty systems so just invested in the kamco cf 90 with the kamco magnet and heating element now this is a role's Royce machine setup and can't see me swoping to any other
When you flush with ch on the boiler pump is on as well so I believe you need to be careful only putting the machine in the right orientation cause I believe if you reverse it you may create problems in your boiler right?
Nice video thanks. And if I don't have power flushing machine would adding cleanser to my system would work as well but it would just take longer to clean?
I'm a plumber with over 20 years of experience in heating and plumbing.... Magna cleanse is a way safer way to clean a heating system... it's not always how quick you can do things.... it's results and longevity of a heating system after it had been cleaned...
The Magna cleanse is a product from Adey ... and it's a great peace of equipment for flushing heating systems...I have bought one recently and used it..
Are you not putting a lot of pressure on joints in older systems? Your introducing new water into system so are you introducing new dirt and how can you tell if it has moved the muck in the radiator without thermal checking as it's cold??
Great video mate ….quick question did it not create any problems when running the boiler whilst the powerflush was connected ? Wouldn’t the lack of pressure stop it circulating ?
just a quick question, is there a possibility the heat exchanger could be blocked, as the dirty water will pass through that? and the same way you connected through the filter flow/return, could the boiler be isolated and just solely clean the central heating system?
I know this is probably a stupid question but should/can you flush the hotwater (not CH) pipes if you're fitting a new air source heat pump? I'm having a Valliant Arostor 200 fitted to replace an 30 year old gas water heater, I feel like this should be the opportunity to flush those pipes.
Help! I have inherited a small 2 bed detached old stone cottage, it is presently heated by two gas wall heaters and a gas fire. I want to install a new combi & rads etc . Can you recommend any particular system. Kind regards
If there is a Check Valve installed in the Plumbing pipe work then there may be a problem when the flow is reversed??? Is there a solution to this dilemma?
Excellent video and it is clear you did a thorough job on this flushing exercise. I do have a few questions for you - if I may? 1. Why did you not do the flushing routine with the old boiler prior to rip out and reconfiguring the new system? 2. As you were going through your box of bits you explained you had a conductivity meter (I think) but did not use it assessing the cleaned state of the circuit water? 3. What is your view of striving for VDI and not using inhibitors?
Hi mate, 1. Why would I do that? Makes little sense to start with flushing when you will be removing most of the prework in a cylinder cupboard. You also need to flush all the flux after install, so it is best to flush after you complete the installation. In the video I am just flushing - but in a real life installation I would be flushing while doing other work - wiring up, making good around the flue,etc. so it takes less time. If I started with a flush the install would take much longer and then I would have to flush again on completion tog et rid of installation contamination. If you are worried about 'sludding up new boiler' - that is nothing to worry aboout and definitely nothing to worry about with Intergas. Hope this clears point no.1 2. It was a PH meter, and not a very good one. I have been struggling to find reliable meters as they go out of calibration or give wrong results. I find litmus papers the most reliable at the moment. 3. VDI 2035 seems like a very good idea. For example in my country (Poland) plumbers never heard of inhibitor as VDI 2035 is generally accepted as a correct method. Having said that, I have systems protected with inhibitor (Only dosed at original installation and not topped up) coming to 15 years and still running clean with no filters. It can be done with inhibitors as well, if the system is well-designed, not over pumped and run at moderate temperatures.
Quality video. I have a question though. We have a house built in 2004 that has micro-bore pipes. I have always been told that you cannot power flush microbore is that correct??
Great video! After heating up the system do you disconnect the pump lead inside the boiler? The flow indices a current generated by the pump that could damage the pcb. Also if reversing the flow could it break the pump inside the boiler if the flow rate is 10x higher than intended?
We had our UFH system power flushed 12 months ago at the time we had a new boiler installed. Today the boiler had its first 12 month service. The plumber found thick black dirty water in the boiler. It's a mystery to him and to us how they could happen after only recently having the system power flushed. Any idea where this dirty water is coming from? We have no obvious leaks or air locks. As I say a Mystery. 🤨
I have a Navien combi water heater/boiler on radiators. i can't find anyone that knows how to clean my radiators from sludge like you describe. do they sell those flushing machines that work in the US?
Neutralising crystals are in fact sodium carbonate (says on the tin), and are also sold as soda crystals in supermarkets. Makes me think why I paid so much for 100 g tube of specific power flushing brand, instead of going to local supermarket and paying £2 for 1 kg.
Never had a powerflush done on my system. Too scared the ancient boiler / pipes / radiators will burst 😄 I do get loud banging every now and then though. I recently found the small tank in the loft had its overflow pipe feeding into the main water tank 😵. I'd love to know who the f#@k thought that was a good idea?!?
@@UrbanPlumbers I personally connect to the flow and return before the boiler and close it off or even before the boilers installed. I'd just worry too much about contamination. But it seems to work out for you, so each to their own I guess.
Very good video! Just please avoid those intergas boilers... An Alpha etec 28 is lots better and same price 7yr warranty. Imo. Try one its not like a cb24 😅
My radiators are 38 years old .The single panel Myson radiators.Except in the main bedroom there is a convecter panel behind the radiator.I have stopped doing this over the years I used to take the radiators off the wall and drained the water in the garden This was 8 radiators.I have always used a rust inhibitor in the system.It used to be Fernox before we got the combi boiler.Now I put a bottle under pressure through the combi boiler Forgot the stuff name it is oily.All my radiatots are hot so what is this pressure washing all about.Can you cause more damage than good? Above the floor my copper pipes to the radiators are microbore.If your radiators are hot I wouldn't bother with power flushing leave well alone.Just my opinion.
Great video by the way. ..... Wouldn't it be dangerous to cap off the open vent and turn the boiler on during the flush?... or does the flushing machine become your 'open end '?
Heya daft question. If you had the power flushing machine connected and isolated every radiator. Would this flush the secondary plate heat exchanger? Also thought about the combi mag for kamco. Love the rubber mallet idea instead of sds drill gizmo. So cool. Thanks a lot harry.
You would have to connect the machine to flow and return of the boiler and then turn the hot water on and keep it running while the PF is off, then turn heating on and machine on for a few seconds, then turn hot water on while PF is off again. I do clean plates that way sometimes. You could also just turn flow and return off and run the boiler on hot water only for a good while once you get chemicals in the system. But you will not be able to flush the plate with a PF insitu as when the diverter valve opens for DHW it closes circulation from the PF machine.
You can flush the plate with a PF machine if you have a pump head adapter. If you connect anywhere else, the diverter valve will prevent flow around the plate.
Very good all yours videos, technically, artistically, plenty useful details. Are you going to use Thermo imaging camera for diagnosing rads? I use an additional big magnets to catch magnetic debris during circulation, it saves me time (instead of dumping of dirty water), what do you think about it?
Thanks for this. Not usual to flush like this in Sweden. Couple of questions: Do you often have problems with damage caused by the pump pressure being pretty high? (Like you did with the return valve) 2, Is it legal to dump those chemicals down the drain?
Hi, great video, if you are cleaning a pressurised system do you let the pressure out first ?, and because of gravity and the radiators upstairs do you need to keep the lid on the Kamco unit ?
yes, never caused me a problem, but obviously best if the boiler pump is not running. You will know almost instantly when you are pushing against the boiler pump anyway when you are dumbing water - flow increases a lot.
Followed the process in the video but couldn't get past the first flush, when i re pressurised the boiler for the second flush stage as soon as i turned the boiler on to heat the water the pressure immediately fell to zero so i turned the boiler off. Any idea why this is happening. Also most information i have seen on this method has an external megafilter device between the flushing machine and the pipework, what are your thougths on this?
Sometimes you have to throttle power flushing return valve to build up pressure for the boiler to fire. Also when flushing a combi boiler you need to make sure that the diverter valve is in CH position.
It depends on how you connect the machine. If you connect to the flow and return under the boiler then you can shut all rads, If you connect to return only (in place of a filter for example) - then you will need at least one radiator open at all times as otherwise there would be no flow. If you intend on flushing the boiler only, it is sometimes the easiest to remove one radiator (closest to the boiler), connect to flow and return there and shut all other rads - that way you can flush the boiler only
My Viessmann boiler is about three years old. Can you flush through with this boiler and how much do I expect to pay for a 13 radiator household? Thank you
@@UrbanPlumbers Some radiators are cold at the bottom while the top(s) is hot. my feeling is that when the boiler was installed, the system was not flushed
excellent walk through - your clients are very lucky to have you
thanks mate!
I agree....good quality workmanship
I’m a seasoned plumbing and heating engineer and found this to be a brilliant video. Great stuff
Thank you !
I Totally Agree!
This is a wonderfully informative and perfectly presented video
TY 🙋🏻♀️
@@UrbanPlumbers Please be so kind as to see my hack and question in the root of comments on this video --
I just remembered another I saw in CF30 machine instructions: You can put a magnet up to a copper pipe and 'feel' black magnetite inside that way (but not brown organic stuff!).
When I did this job I had a drill with chisel function(no rotation hammer) with a nylon hammer bit to remove hardened deposits in radiators, I also had a Kamco magnet in circuit it saved time at each job. I also had a pump adapter for easy connection via circulation pump. Great explanation of how kamco CF90 works.
By far the most informative video ive seen
You know your trade very well. A pleasure to watch you working.
Fantastic video, with in-depth explanation. Gas Man myself.
Great video, explained perfectly this just taught me more that the whole power fluahing section in my course handbook. Many thanks!
👍🏾 This one is the best PF video I’ve seen , and I’ve watched a lot.
Wow, thank you!
1st time iv watched a full video of a product. Great effort in explaining to the T. Thanks
I’m new to power flushing and have found this very useful!thank you
Great explanation, much better then one off those courses I have attended. 👌
Which one did you go to? Kamco course I attended over 12 years ago was actually very good.
That was a very in depth video by a very good educator ,thank you 👍👍👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Great video I am going to power flush my combi boiler system this weekend myself hope all goes well 😯
Hi…..just about to hire someone to do this procedure……video tutorial was brilliant……I will sound like I know what I’m talking about now when they do it……!!…🤣……Many thanks….
A very derailed and helpful video. Excellent job
greetings from greece!! nice videos.keep up the good work mate!!!!!
Thanks, will do!
Thanx for another great video.
I was not aware of the rubber hammer technic on the radiators.
I will try it next time.
Cheers from France.
It actually works very well.
Excellent Video, well explained.
Absolutely awesome, so clear!
Absolutely brilliant video technology process is absolutely outstanding
I've been using a Kamco over 20 years. Powerflushing as you pointed out about flow rates primarily.
Choice of the right chemicals is paramount.
Utilising magnetic flushing kits (magnaclean, Kamco or others) I have found used in conjunction is the best way; when the magnets are clean, you know your finished!
Have seen lots of 'professional' videos of the alternatives you mention,but you know and I know they are inadequate methods, even on relatively recent boiler replacements!
Until boiler manafactures insist on the relevant standards being followed and documented, it's too easy for installers to kid themselves and customers they've done a "proper job".
First class educational video,puts all the other shortcut merchants to shame!!!
John, thank you for kind words! It is really appreciated.
Kamco is an excellent machine. I used to have Magnacleanse and was rather disappointed at how useless that was compared to a proper machine. Trying to flush with mains or magnacleanse is just pretending you are doing a full job. Having said that, there are systems that do not need to be flushed.
@@UrbanPlumbers Nothing to do with kind words. You absolutely nailed the argument for power flushing against the poor alternatives that others attempt to justify!
What chemicals do you use?
I use fx2 if I can. Otherwise F5.
Totally agree, Well said !! Agree on magnets, but our apprentice watches videos and follows them...
Excellent video as usual, if I may add its a great idea if you can talk the customer into having new radiator valves because you can come unstuck with old siezed up valves especially when using Kamco FX2
With many new boilers adding a magnetic filter will extend the blr guarantee for 10 years! In fact most new blr manufacturers insist on one being fitted.
Definitely replace dodgy radiator valves, if fitting TRV'S do it.
I've seen Urban with his aqua vac before when had a leak....
We could do with a plumber/heating engineer like you at our house. Finding the right one is currently a minefield. Love watching your vlogs.
Where are you. I may be able to recommend a decent person in your area?
Thanks for your reply @@UrbanPlumbers. I'm in Barnsley, South Yorkshire.
@@barnsley1066 is Alan Hart in your area? He certainly talks with one of those funny accents 😀
@@Lutonman2010, he's up the road in Leeds. He down travel this far south (25Miles). Funny accent, how dare you sir ;-)
Do you have any recommended engineers to cover TELFORD, Shropshire please.
You should pick up the kamco magnetic filter it’s great, pulls all the dirt out with the chemicals in and the clients love seeing the dirt
Used to have one. Sold it. Did not see a point in lugging another piece of kit.
They know your doing a good job !
Excellent explanation
Thank you!
I shared this to my power flushing page on fb.
Thank you for sharing ! What's the FB please?
@@UrbanPlumbers power flushing/ mag flushing.
I power flush full time. Nice video✌🏽
Another great and very informative video, thank you 👍
thanks !
Interesting video. You don't mention opening up the individual lock shield valves fully to flush each radiator individually (after noting LS valve position). LS valves can be quite closed down when system was originally balanced. When I cleaned my system I did it the old fashioned way, taking each radiator out into the garden and flushing with a garden hose, this is ok except for the weight of large double radiators if working on your own. Then I ran the CH with a Fernox non acidic cleaner hot for 20 - 30 minutes (old Thorn radiators that are now 44 years old (1978) ..... in fact the entire system I inherited was Thorn, the boiler a floor standing Thorn `M' and Thorn radiators .... back when we made a lot of stuff in the UK). The radiators are a nice open design without fins, not prone to being clogged with dust & cobwebs.
I thought you were Italian, I was way off 😁
Nice job, we do it that way when my apprentice is here cleans the top manifold,plug & vents thoroughly.
Dodgy lockshields are replaced as a matter of course. Not a great fan of power flushing bur my apprentice loves our new Kamco.
As a consumer and sometimes DIY'r, I love seeing videos like these, so thoroughly well explained and executed.
Can you come up to Glasgow and do my house! :-)
If you pay for a hotel for me and my mate I will gladly come to Glasgow. I am fed up with London anyway :)
@@UrbanPlumbers
I will happily pay for accomodation and take you out on the town for a few beers on top :-)
@@UrbanPlumbers Can u come to Germany ? I show u Systems, 40 years old, never flushed, with absolutely no problems, and verry clean water....
In 35 years of servicing Heating systems, there was not much need to flush systems. but if there was a need, it was a underfloor heating system.
what the hell is going on with our heating systems on the island ?
@@Ratzfaz same in Poland - no need for flushing at all.
The issues are numerous - incorrectly installed systems, systems not fluhsed after installation, open vent systems, system not designed correctly and hugely over pumped, etc...
The list goes on and on.
Also Germany and Poland do not use inhibitors.
Is it the fill water? Resin filled ?
Ph correct?
Great stuff love to watch your videos
thank you!
This is a great guide. I have a question with regards the direction. You've connected across the filter, if you change the direction won't it go through the pump in the wrong direction?
It doesn’t matter - it still works
My question exactly! Obviously blr is off but seemingly the machine can pump through the blr pump in reverse?
Yes no problem
Great job mate well done 👍🏼
Great Video. Thanks
Can i isolate the boiler flow and return before power flushing . I dont want dirty water going through boiler.
Thanks
@UrbanPlumbers
Interesting hack to share, In my case reconnecting own' system I actually put an "inspection joint" for now above feed to HW coil with a little dogleg of pipe and some speedfit 22mm right angle joints, SO will be able to actually drain and *see* if whatever I've done is actually working on this one bit of the pipework where seem to have accumulated the worst gunk and there appears to be poor thermal-transfer into HW-cylinder.
There is/was a semi-loose black-lining there; finger can shift it but it didn't appear to be coming out in strong-magnets used in combination with CF30 flushing machine.
If I've used the MC3+ (in for many weeks, heated, powerflushed for many days) inside the HW-coil 22mm pipes that barely comes off -- is it even worth trying F5/X800 -or- should I go straight to Kamco-X2 / Fernox-DS40 [acidic cleaners] which have to be neutralized and not put on plate heat exchangers etc etc!!! ?
I NOTE I could actually isolate the boiler and just flush that HW-coil feed in that case ...
Another hack mentioned in CF30 flushing manual: You can also use a Magnet to sense Magnetite (black) in the pipes.
In any case thank you for the excellent video and I'd greatly appreciate any views you have!!.
@UrbanPlumbers Excellent video! I'm doing my first powerflush tomorrow on a 15 year old system that hasn't been touched so I'm hopeful of good results. One question - my boiler has the circulating pump built into it (it's an MCZ pellet boiler). If I turn on the boiler and get it up to temperature, when I use the power flush machine at the same time as per your video, when I switch the flow back and forward, wont's that fight against the circulating pump? If so, will this damage it?
There may also be an issue with a mix-down valve that provides back-end protection on the biomass boiler by creating an in-boiler circulation of 55 degrees, but I'll look at that tomorrow!
great video. i have a two zone S plan + connected via my worcester 42 kw combi bolier. i intend to powerfush the system via my magna flow. my question is do i power flush through the unvented cylnder as well or shut off the zone valve . mant thanks Duncan
Great tutorial .. thanks
When I was an apprentice this was basically my job… must have powerflushed over 1000 systems 😂 we had the kamco, now I don’t do installs I’m a commercial service engineer
Flushing is the most boring job ever 🤣🤣🤣
One of the best videos that i have watched. very very clear instructions. I DIYed by boiler and works a treat. i have a question -> the pressure dropped on the opposite flow... is that normal? in the normal flow (boiler's normal flow) the pressure was ok but everytime i changed the flow it dropped. So i could only switch on one side for a few seconds and the flow would stop.
Yes some boilers may be only flushed one way
Great video well explained
Thank you!
Great video. I've been Powerflushing for years now but started to use a thoroughflush machine as it's mains pressure flush and quicker and easier to use. Definitely worth a look at one. Haven't touched my Powerflush machine in a year now lol
Also I always agitate the radiators using a kamco agitator tool which will clear all the stubborn particles in the system.
Is that the gadget that allows you to change direction like on PF machine?
@@UrbanPlumbers Yes it is. Great bit of kit and only at £350 for it
@@lewisneal7367 how does it work when you get below 10L / minute from the mains - must take ages to flush? Water may run clean, but there surely is no way it can shift dirt as such a low flow rates?
@@UrbanPlumbers that's where I use my powerflush or you can add a pump onto the mains pipe to boost the pressure. I was thinking of getting a salamander mains boost and add it to the cold mains to the machine.
@@lewisneal7367 I thought of getting salamadner home boost for low flow areas as well to pump clean water quicker to my PF machine. Still it only is 12L / min
Great video, just have two questions (apprentice): 1. If you’re flushing a system and not installing a new boiler, is there not a potential for the heat exchanger to get blocked or damaged ? 2. When you turned the boiler on to heat the water as the machine was circulating the water, does the machine pump not fight against the boiler pump when in reverse ? Thanks
Excellent video, would it be safe to say, when you put the boiler on to heat the water & the powerflush is also on, the powerflush circulation has to be in the same direction as the boilers circulation?
yes, otherwise you may get boiler to stop
Seems no answer to that!
Great video..
I’ve just bought a power flush machine but a bit nervous about using it (I use Magnacleanse at the moment) Just a couple of questions ;
1. When you fill the system to 1.5bar via the boiler filling loop how does it not overflow through the hole in the front where you add the chemicals?
2. When you had the boiler turned on and the machine turned on at the same time I assume you need the flow from the machine running in the same direction as the boiler and you can’t reverse it whilst it’s in operation ?
3. When you’re reverse flowing the PF machine through the boiler could it potentially damage the boiler if it has non return valves fitted in it ? Or do you need to isolate the boiler?
Thank you 🙏🏼😊
Good questions, shame Urban didn't answer..
We prefer hand washing, most thorough clean when valves need replacing.
If power flusher on ground level & outside Best in case of a flood. Turning pump off can empty into power flusher and overflow not while pumping. Always best with 2 people at first to keep an eye on everything.
Some old jobs I would not risk using a power flush, bad joints, rusty rads, pin holes on the back etc..
Yes while heating with boiler pump running correct circulation must be observed. Another disadvantage not able to reverse. But in video it was a newish boiler Intergas Rapid. Our favourite boiler.
I would power flush system alone, then boiler if required and heat if required, constant heat not needed.
Nice one, very helpful...
I’ve seen some use a rubber attachment on a hammer drill for easier & better agitation of sludge as well as use of an infrared thermometer to identify particularly bad areas. Great vid as always.
Thanks!
Great video👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Been plumbing and heating for 21 years now done flushing since day 1.my anton machine was terrible so got the throughflush but that didn't touch the dirty systems so just invested in the kamco cf 90 with the kamco magnet and heating element now this is a role's Royce machine setup and can't see me swoping to any other
Please tell us whether you remove the head or the whole valve and if so what do you put instead
When you flush with ch on the boiler pump is on as well so I believe you need to be careful only putting the machine in the right orientation cause I believe if you reverse it you may create problems in your boiler right?
Wicked video 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Nice video thanks. And if I don't have power flushing machine would adding cleanser to my system would work as well but it would just take longer to clean?
I'm a plumber with over 20 years of experience in heating and plumbing.... Magna cleanse is a way safer way to clean a heating system... it's not always how quick you can do things.... it's results and longevity of a heating system after it had been cleaned...
The best way is thorough flush. Magnanclean is a gimmick.
@@UrbanPlumbers it's not a gimmick.. it's a great peace of equipment...
The Magna cleanse is a product from Adey ... and it's a great peace of equipment for flushing heating systems...I have bought one recently and used it..
Magnaclense is an oversized magnet and nothing more. It's a slightly beefed up chemical flush.
Thanks
Just has new boiler installation and a supposed "flush". Rads still have cold spots. Can I still do this power flush ?
Are you not putting a lot of pressure on joints in older systems? Your introducing new water into system so are you introducing new dirt and how can you tell if it has moved the muck in the radiator without thermal checking as it's cold??
great vid pal.i have the same machine.does a very good job.
yep, it is a very good machine indeed
Great video mate ….quick question did it not create any problems when running the boiler whilst the powerflush was connected ? Wouldn’t the lack of pressure stop it circulating ?
just a quick question, is there a possibility the heat exchanger could be blocked, as the dirty water will pass through that? and the same way you connected through the filter flow/return, could the boiler be isolated and just solely clean the central heating system?
You’ve got an awesome video to. Thanks very much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I know this is probably a stupid question but should/can you flush the hotwater (not CH) pipes if you're fitting a new air source heat pump? I'm having a Valliant Arostor 200 fitted to replace an 30 year old gas water heater, I feel like this should be the opportunity to flush those pipes.
What about boiler pressure and how much water you need to pump into system when cleaning etc
Help!
I have inherited a small 2 bed detached old stone cottage, it is presently heated by two gas wall heaters and a gas fire. I want to install a new combi & rads etc . Can you recommend any particular system.
Kind regards
If there is a Check Valve installed in the Plumbing pipe work then there may be a problem when the flow is reversed??? Is there a solution to this dilemma?
Not even the manufacturer can post a better video than this...
Thanks for that!
Excellent video and it is clear you did a thorough job on this flushing exercise. I do have a few questions for you - if I may?
1. Why did you not do the flushing routine with the old boiler prior to rip out and reconfiguring the new system?
2. As you were going through your box of bits you explained you had a conductivity meter (I think) but did not use it assessing the cleaned state of the circuit water?
3. What is your view of striving for VDI and not using inhibitors?
Hi mate,
1. Why would I do that? Makes little sense to start with flushing when you will be removing most of the prework in a cylinder cupboard. You also need to flush all the flux after install, so it is best to flush after you complete the installation. In the video I am just flushing - but in a real life installation I would be flushing while doing other work - wiring up, making good around the flue,etc. so it takes less time. If I started with a flush the install would take much longer and then I would have to flush again on completion tog et rid of installation contamination. If you are worried about 'sludding up new boiler' - that is nothing to worry aboout and definitely nothing to worry about with Intergas. Hope this clears point no.1
2. It was a PH meter, and not a very good one. I have been struggling to find reliable meters as they go out of calibration or give wrong results. I find litmus papers the most reliable at the moment.
3. VDI 2035 seems like a very good idea. For example in my country (Poland) plumbers never heard of inhibitor as VDI 2035 is generally accepted as a correct method. Having said that, I have systems protected with inhibitor (Only dosed at original installation and not topped up) coming to 15 years and still running clean with no filters. It can be done with inhibitors as well, if the system is well-designed, not over pumped and run at moderate temperatures.
@@UrbanPlumbers Great reply, thanks brother, great videos always!👍✌
Instead of connecting the cold water main with washing machine hose could you not just open the filling loop and fill it through the hoses?
Quality video. I have a question though. We have a house built in 2004 that has micro-bore pipes. I have always been told that you cannot power flush microbore is that correct??
No it’s not correct. It is more difficult and a lot of people stay away from flushing it but it is not impossible.
Great video! After heating up the system do you disconnect the pump lead inside the boiler? The flow indices a current generated by the pump that could damage the pcb. Also if reversing the flow could it break the pump inside the boiler if the flow rate is 10x higher than intended?
That's what l want to know! Can the machine swith pass through the boiler pump?
Does this work with cold water when the boiler isn’t working to heat the water
Do you have to change seal ,every time you service it ?
Do you have to ap the cold feed and vent ?
We had our UFH system power flushed 12 months ago at the time we had a new boiler installed. Today the boiler had its first 12 month service. The plumber found thick black dirty water in the boiler. It's a mystery to him and to us how they could happen after only recently having the system power flushed. Any idea where this dirty water is coming from? We have no obvious leaks or air locks. As I say a Mystery. 🤨
Great Vid have you ever thought about getting the Kamco magnet I have used it . Its very good
Great job 👍
I used to have one. In the end, I decided that it was not really necessary and just another bulky item to lug around.
I have a Navien combi water heater/boiler on radiators. i can't find anyone that knows how to clean my radiators from sludge like you describe. do they sell those flushing machines that work in the US?
Neutralising crystals are in fact sodium carbonate (says on the tin), and are also sold as soda crystals in supermarkets. Makes me think why I paid so much for 100 g tube of specific power flushing brand, instead of going to local supermarket and paying £2 for 1 kg.
Exactly...
And what is the cleaning formula? Phosphoric acid 10%?
Never had a powerflush done on my system. Too scared the ancient boiler / pipes / radiators will burst 😄
I do get loud banging every now and then though.
I recently found the small tank in the loft had its overflow pipe feeding into the main water tank 😵. I'd love to know who the f#@k thought that was a good idea?!?
Very informative, but why flush a dirty system through a new boiler? Surely you risk contaminating the HE/plate.
Not if you know what you are doing
@@UrbanPlumbers I personally connect to the flow and return before the boiler and close it off or even before the boilers installed. I'd just worry too much about contamination. But it seems to work out for you, so each to their own I guess.
No need to worry
Very good video! Just please avoid those intergas boilers... An Alpha etec 28 is lots better and same price 7yr warranty. Imo. Try one its not like a cb24 😅
Intergas are the most robust boilers ever made. Not important anymore, as I don't fit them anymore.
Did the boiler get a powerflush too or just the central heating system only?
My radiators are 38 years old .The single panel Myson radiators.Except in the main bedroom there is a convecter panel behind the radiator.I have stopped doing this over the years I used to take the radiators off the wall and drained the water in the garden This was 8 radiators.I have always used a rust inhibitor in the system.It used to be Fernox before we got the combi boiler.Now I put a bottle under pressure through the combi boiler Forgot the stuff name it is oily.All my radiatots are hot so what is this pressure washing all about.Can you cause more damage than good? Above the floor my copper pipes to the radiators are microbore.If your radiators are hot I wouldn't bother with power flushing leave well alone.Just my opinion.
Hello. Can this work on a conventional boiler system? Do I have to bypass the pump?
No works fine. Can remove the pump and connect instead or keep pump insitu
What about a powerflush on an underfloor heating system. You are welcome to do a video at mine in Bedfordshire 😊
you can just flush it with mains - no PF needed. Just do one loop at a time.
Great video by the way. ..... Wouldn't it be dangerous to cap off the open vent and turn the boiler on during the flush?... or does the flushing machine become your 'open end '?
Yep - flushing machine is your expansion
Heya daft question. If you had the power flushing machine connected and isolated every radiator. Would this flush the secondary plate heat exchanger? Also thought about the combi mag for kamco. Love the rubber mallet idea instead of sds drill gizmo. So cool. Thanks a lot harry.
You would have to connect the machine to flow and return of the boiler and then turn the hot water on and keep it running while the PF is off, then turn heating on and machine on for a few seconds, then turn hot water on while PF is off again.
I do clean plates that way sometimes.
You could also just turn flow and return off and run the boiler on hot water only for a good while once you get chemicals in the system. But you will not be able to flush the plate with a PF insitu as when the diverter valve opens for DHW it closes circulation from the PF machine.
You can flush the plate with a PF machine if you have a pump head adapter.
If you connect anywhere else, the diverter valve will prevent flow around the plate.
if the powerflush is pumping the opposite way to the boiler pump, won't this potentially damage the pump?
Never been a problem
Very good all yours videos, technically, artistically, plenty useful details.
Are you going to use Thermo imaging camera for diagnosing rads?
I use an additional big magnets to catch magnetic debris during circulation, it saves me time (instead of dumping of dirty water), what do you think about it?
Magnets are good but just another large item to lug
Thanks for this. Not usual to flush like this in Sweden. Couple of questions: Do you often have problems with damage caused by the pump pressure being pretty high? (Like you did with the return valve) 2, Is it legal to dump those chemicals down the drain?
Hi, great video, if you are cleaning a pressurised system do you let the pressure out first ?, and because of gravity and the radiators upstairs do you need to keep the lid on the Kamco unit ?
What I mean is if you have pressure in the system and the lid is not on the machine why does the water not blow out ? Thanks
@@acestu because is constantly pumped into the system. If you stop the pump you will flood yourself.
@@UrbanPlumbers Great thanks, you know your stuff nice to see....
If blr is used for heat, blr pump flows one way of course, how can your appliance lever reverse the flow?
PF will overpower the boiler pump easily - most boiler will still work in reverse
Can your switch machine lever cross the boiler pump?
yes, never caused me a problem, but obviously best if the boiler pump is not running. You will know almost instantly when you are pushing against the boiler pump anyway when you are dumbing water - flow increases a lot.
Followed the process in the video but couldn't get past the first flush, when i re pressurised the boiler for the second flush stage as soon as i turned the boiler on to heat the water the pressure immediately fell to zero so i turned the boiler off. Any idea why this is happening. Also most information i have seen on this method has an external megafilter device between the flushing machine and the pipework, what are your thougths on this?
Sometimes you have to throttle power flushing return valve to build up pressure for the boiler to fire.
Also when flushing a combi boiler you need to make sure that the diverter valve is in CH position.
Connect directly to the magnetic filter.
Hi
I have 8 radiators in my home….5 of them aren’t heating up at all.Do i need a power flush or could the problem lie somewhere else????
Powerflush if they worked previously
did you go back and test 2 days later? i just did test failed. is it me? water is red
ill test again
Link to this machine? When you are flushing the main boiler heat exchanger, are all the rads shut?
It depends on how you connect the machine. If you connect to the flow and return under the boiler then you can shut all rads, If you connect to return only (in place of a filter for example) - then you will need at least one radiator open at all times as otherwise there would be no flow.
If you intend on flushing the boiler only, it is sometimes the easiest to remove one radiator (closest to the boiler), connect to flow and return there and shut all other rads - that way you can flush the boiler only
My Viessmann boiler is about three years old. Can you flush through with this boiler and how much do I expect to pay for a 13 radiator household? Thank you
Yes you can. Why would you need to flush if it’s only 3 years old? Is the plate getting blocked? Still on rubber hoses?
@@UrbanPlumbers Some radiators are cold at the bottom while the top(s) is hot. my feeling is that when the boiler was installed, the system was not flushed
Hi. What's the difference between this Quantum 2 CF90 and the cheaper CF40 Evolution?
Fliw rates & pressure.
How long is this process? I had a plumber tell me it’s a full day job and he couldn’t offer because he was booked up
Yes it can take a full day
When a power flush needs to be done on an open vent system, the feed and expansion cistern must be isolated and the vent pipe too. Is that correct?
Yes correct
I use push fit to connect overflow pipe to outlet of expansion pipe thereby making a circulating flow.