So you wouldn’t use paint because it takes too long to dry? It might be helpful to write down the points you want to make then discuss them at the beginning or end of the video. Then use the content to illustrate your points.
If you're using a 2.2-2.4 tip with around 40psi you can get a good finish. I used HVLP with Kilz after sanding cabinets then CabinetCoat over it. It's held up extremely well and lays so flat that you'll be amazed.
Try zinsser cover stain primer instead of kilz, I did and never went back! I even thin it with acetone to spray it on fine and dry fast.. I use avanti 5 stage hvlp. then I spray behr cabinet and trim with 1 pint of flotrol added per gallon. Always get amazing results.
I use one of the cheap paint guns with a 1.5mm nozzle (neiko brand - $35) and it functions phenomenally. The only issues I ran into were not its fault - I should have gotten the 2.0mm nozzle version, and I shouldn't have been using latex paint (I knew nothing about painting when I started) What I did discover, however, was that if you mix latex paint with water based polyurethane at about 60:40 and then thin it to work in your gun (with a 2.0mm nozzle I don't think I would have to thin much, if it all) then you get a basically enamel paint like finish - it's been on my cabinets and seems to be wearing like damned iron. I did my first few cabinet doors with paint and then poly, and because it was even a little bit cool in my garage, it wouldn't dry evenly and I'd get spider cracking in the poly like mad. But mixing the paint with the poly, it solved the issue completely, and even though I have doors with paint/poly separately next to ones with the two mixed, you would NEVER be able to tell there was a difference. And for touchups on chips, paint/poly mixed together fills chips and scratches like a treat.
Great video if you want to spray. We rolled and brushed with no regrets. Great video. Thanks for updating us. What we did with our dark oak cabinets was to degrease with tsp and rinse rinse rinse it off and then sand so you don’t drive the grease into the wood. Sand until you think your done and then sand some more. Two coats of primer allowing a full day between coats to dry. Then two coats of an enamel top coat paint allowing at-least 2 or 3 days to dry between coats. Then let cure couple weeks before putting on hardware and installing. Lots of work but you won’t regret it. We just posted on our channel a 2 and half yr update video on our painting results. Still looks fantastic.
I used Benjamin Moore Advance paint on my cabinets. To get a professional look, it takes a lot of coats, a lot of sanding between coats, and a lot of dry time between coats. The doors are smooth with no grain showing. It’s a lot of work, but it would have cost me $5000 to have a pro do it. And yes, I did use a HVLP from Home Depot.
As heavily as you are invested in spraying, it might be worth your while to look into purchasing a small spray booth, (if you can figure out a place to put it). Personally, I would look for a used one, but even those cheap collapsible spray tents are a better option than your current set-up. It's my experience that overspray is like nuclear fallout; it settles on and contaminates everything, (even when it looks like it hasn't). So doing it in an area that is totally removed from everything else in your shop, (including that nice air compressor) is a good idea. Also: look into buying some spray socks for the old noggin.
Agree. I built a booth in my shop for painting cabinets and the overspray still gets everywhere. It's a fine dust that can be swept up, but still. I wear a full monkey suit. Respirator, goggles, cap, etc. I'm using an small airless sprayer. I'd stick with his recommendation. Don't paint your cabinets. It is A LOT of work. 2 coats of primer and 2 coats finish. Dry time then prep in between. What was I 🤔
Consider using Shellac as primer/sealer . Dries super fast . sands much easier AND film thickness is half . (less toxic and the finish lacquer coat can be thinner . (less spray and fuming). Perfect base for a lacquer finish . (keep a few spray cans on hand for small items)
My husband built kitchen cabinets top and bottom and drawers in our second house. The ppl that bought it told me that everyone raves about the design and Quality. So proud of him. He is gonna build shallow upper lightweight cabinets for our travel trailer. I want them a white tone to blend eith ceilings. The other 4 cabinets (small trailer) are brown which I want to sand and paint but Its veneer covered presdwood so I am scared of it not adhering well. Excellent video. Hard work.
Brother, very nice informative vid... Great job!... a... about spraying... you may consider following: a) set preesure ON the gun to 25-35 PSI, mix ratio on first coat 80% product to 20% LT, second and third coats 85%-90% ratio to l thinner... b) think about using an old coffe can as a "lazy Susan"... sort of... :-))))) c) also... when spraying I used method called "pushing product", not pulling, as you did... you start with ALL edges first, rotating them as you go... and then you start spraying FROM the edge closest to you TO edge farthest... it will allow you better visual control and NO overspray and fuzz... d) built a small table/stand on casters to put that coffe can on, it will allow you freedom from the wall...better control of finish... now... I say this, because I build furniture and cabinetry plus construction for the past 50 years... Try it and see if you like it... Good luck Boyo... :-))) You doing a great job... Greetings from Pensacola...
@@johnnytocino9313 hey J... yeap... that is exactly that... very simple yet very effective and cheap way to spray cabinet doors quickly... used myself for about 40 past years... and?... still works...
hello Johny... again... take a large coffe can.... put on a flat surface high for you to spray comfortably... use a lazy susan if you have one... put a door flat on the coffe can... spray edges first... than spray AWAY from you on 5-10degree angle to "push" product away... you will avoid all overspray at once... try and see... let me know how did you do...
Many years spraying cabinets and whole house in multi multi million dollar homes. Everything is sanded and filled to the 100th degree, only using bonds and spot putty, then a primer coat. After the primer coat you go very every inch with a high output light looking for ANY imperfections, which then got filled again and sanded. On to first coat of whatever final coating you choose, followed again by more light intense searching for imperfections which are fixed and on to the final 2 coats with sanding between if called for. Big money paint jobs!
I refinished my oak cabinets and removed the grain out of them. I paint cars for a living and did all the spraying in the paint booth. I stripped the finish. Sanded it as smooth as possible. Bought an oil based primer. Found that water or hybrid primer didn't sand or spray as nice. Anyways, oil based prime, sand, and prime a second time. 4 coats each time. Sanded the wood and first coat of primer with 180grit. Finished panels with 320 grit. Making sure to not burn through to the wood and touched up the spots. I ended up using a water based epoxy paint. That stuff was unbelievable to spray. Layed down very nice and it dried very hard. Very happy with the results. Used my cheap $60 HVLP 2.0mm fluid tip gun. Never tried an airless sprayer.
Hang those pieces from the ceiling with wire so you can spray all sides with ease. It's best to spray all sides of the frames too so the entire piece is sealed.
I like your videos. But I work in a cabinet shop and it's actually a lot better to paint first and then drill the holes for your hinges afterwards. You waste a bunch of time trying to cover all the little hinge openings. It's much simpler to paint first then assemble afterwards
Love ur channel and casts. Helps us "beginner contractors" how to do a great job while picking the brain of a pro. BUT, its the customers choice I guess, thats not the color Id choose, lol. Love seeing real grain in a wood finish. I think most carpenters probably do... oh well. Great job on never cutting corners on prep. Im learning prep is 80% the battle in most projects. 👍
I sanded my honey oak cabinets too much and the wood was showing through the paint as green. I needed to use an oil primer first to seal it then I thinned down Cabinet coat with flowtrol and sprayed my cabinets with a 1.8 tip using a harbor freight HVLP gun. Basically came out perfect but I rolled the frames and they came out pretty damn good too. That stuff sets up flat
Don't recommend having the compressor electric motor with all those sparks in the same room as your spraying all that solvent! Big possibility of an explosion. Compressor should be outside or the other side of the wall in the workshop.
My great uncle told me. Never paint cabinet's ,trim ,or other type's a natural woodwork. Reason paint show's Dirt, finger prints ect. Causing more maintenance (cleaning).
Happy Mother's Day! (Because you're the mother of all Handymen 😁) Glad you're venting that garage really well. About a month ago a couple of painters blew up a million dollar home, spraying paint lacquer. Poor ventilation combined with a spark & BOOM!! House go bye-bye... 🚒~ (There's a YT video about it. Nobody was killed, thankfully, but the house was a total loss. No fire hydrants in the community!)
PPG has a product called (break though). That stuff will stick to everything even glass and tile. I did a few experiments on my own with stained cabinets with lacquer finish. Didn't even need a primer. Lightly sand it. And whip down with de glosser.. sprayed 2 coat with a 315 fine finish tip and a airless sprayer... Applied one more coat just because it was that easy.
Man I love your videos. A lot of help. I really like your attitude. Really easy and laid back. That way it all supposed to be while woodworking. That's why you always have a great finish product. Stay busy my friend.
I got a soup ladle for dipping out the paint from the $1 store, bent it at a right angle to go down into the can better. And I used a wire mesh strainer from the $1 store to strain my paint. But I've only ever sprayed my house with the paint. And some doors. Wish I'd seen your video to know to prep those doors like you did, and sand between sprays. Still came out pretty good.
Oh, have you seen the Idaho Painter's method of painting cabinet doors? I forget what the brand was but it's a hanger system that allows the whole door to be painted at once and hung to dry without touching the paint or using painting triangles.
If you're going to spray, your best bet is a turbine setup...not that (supposed) HVLP air compressor gear. Turbinaire puts out a nice product at a fair price. That equipment also sets you up for shooting dyes and glazes to create a really professional looking furniture wood result (way better than stains which accent grain). Turbine gear will have significantly less overspray as well (again, better than the supposed HVLP air compressor gear). The turbine guns constantly bleed air even when the trigger isn't pulled, so you get a well-developed air flow pattern when you do pull the trigger to spray.
I just changed my hardware and put some pledge restore and shine on the existing wood cabinets. They turned out great. I did the math and painting wasn't economical because of the time I would have to put in. Probably cheaper to put in new cabinets LOL.
You could do both sides at the same time if you use small eye hooks, (bottom of lower cabinets, top of upper cabinets so the small holes won’t be seen), attach to ceiling with hooks or use 1 x 2 fur strips that are attached to ceiling on chains, then hang doors & frames from that at a comfortable height. Then you can walk around & spray both sides essentially at same time. Just discovered your channels & been binge watching. Thanks for all your advice and no nonsense (sorry, I don’t care about how your childhood trauma affected your current life...you know how some will try to make video longer to get more money...hate that waste of my time) approach to your work.
I love this channel! your situation is realistic, you don't have a squeaky clean wood shop that looks like a commercial kitchen. helps to see it's not necessary to spend a million bucks to get professional results!
so if it takes 20-30 minutes between coats are you okay to leave the lacquer in the spray gun without it drying out or causing issues? also is it still the case that lacquer finishes tend to yellow over time? or is that an old issue that no longer occurs with new technology and products??
I hand painted 20 doors front and back 2 coats in one evening with SW Pro classic satin. The trick? Point a fan at them and they dry to the touch in 10 minutes.
Is it a good idea to sand where you're spraying paint won't the dust from sanding the cabinets get on the cabinets .maybe it would be more wise to sand and different room and spray in a different room
Oh and bare wood needs a lot of coats, or it still feels “boney” as we call it gotta put meat on . Much better with oil paint than water base or hybrid
Your air compressure is in a pocket where fumes can build. The arc from the motor could ignite heavy fumes. Have a vent by air compressure with it filtered. So filtered air passes by you.
Yes. I specifically went over my forced air ventilation in this video for the O.S.H.A guys. I do realized it is a valid concern and viewers should be aware that you need ventilation when spraying large amounts.
@@TheHandyman1 Dude how you explained it. did not sound like the air was coming from the compressor side. Remember there are people watching your channel that just don't know stuff that professional like us do. Just saying. Not cutting you down or any crap like that. I support your channel and content. If were crap I would not be watching.
Well that was definitely a bunch of nothing lol but you are hilarious and I love the fan over your table saw what a great idea I'm going to do that. keep the posts coming....
I’m super happy someone else uses lacquer. I absolutely love the finish it produces. Plus... that drying time is ridiculously quick. Stumbled on your channel a couple days ago, I’ll definitely be watching every video 😂
This is great for unpainted cabinets, but what if your cabinets already have varnish but they varnish has worn away in some places due to water damage?
Love the mushroom cloud of dust from the compressor kicking in. LOL. Good you are not varnishing! Sanding in the "clean room" is the least of the problems. We all deal with what we have...LOL
Note make sure your electric sprayer can spray lacquer or flammable mixtures. And for God sake. Make sure when painting or spraying flammable products you keep adequate ventilation. Or you could easily start a fire.
The "paint" was too thick, unless you spray closer and slower. You didn't mention what thinner you used -I'm assuming acetone. If you spray rinse your gun between coats, it will eliminate clogging. That stipple you say... Is dry spray. Avoid that and you'll do less sanding. If you practice releasing the trigger half way as you begin to spray another pass, then fluid won't be excessive on the edges. Less chance for runs or puddles of paint. One more thing, you're awesome and I learn a lot from you. Paintwork is however my expertise. Thanks for the video!
Could you please specify your inlet pressure at the gun, tip size and number of turns out on your fluid control? All of that info., would be very helpful.
I use water base paints Frome Lowe's home Depot through a develvis hvlp paint gun at work we build customer cabinets and oil and lacquer clears we just finished up some custom work on Bret Michaels motorhome yeah the lead guy Frome poison we are restoring an old GMC that I painted white with a HVLP paint gun man gotta know what ur doing as an automotive painter these cabinets are coming out killer
Couldn't go through all your comments, but you should try "positive pressure" ventilation. We use it in the fire service to remove smoke. Negative pressure pulls air through the path of least resistance . Positive will move air in all parts of the room.
Ive painted hundreds of stained oak ("orange")cabinets for customers. I prime them with oil based primer then 2 coats of proclassic rolled on using a 3" roller. the Proclassic self levels so back brushing isnt necessary. Spraying is not possible or easy in a finished kitchen nor do i want to mask off the whole room to spray.
How do you handle doors with recess on the center (like the one he is painting)? I assume using a roller will cause it to accumulate on corners which would make for sub-optimal finish.
he blew it off with the compressor, it should be alright. You should see conditions in cabinet shops, everythings done in the same room except a negative pressure paint booth. But all touchups, etc are done in mountains of dust. In third world countries its even dustier and they achieve really good results still. But I suppose in your garage yes, sand on the driveway lol
at4:37 should pick up the cord and put over your shoulder then you wont get black marks on the edge of the workpiece just a little tip i learned many a moon ago ran a finishing dept for a few years so i have done some sanding lol
I'm looking forward to seeing the results. I'm going to be painting some existing cabinets, and I hadn't thought of using tinted lacquer. I'll definitely go that route now, I think.
Look up "The Idaho Painter" on youtube and see what he is using to paint interior cabinets that are already installed on the wall. I wanted to see what the pros use not what the salesmen at the paint shop wanted to sell. I found that they all use lacquer or something very similar .
@TheHandyman1 Idaho Painter is the GOAT of painting. I can respect that you defer to other experts and pros eventhough you are quite the pro too. He's definitely a good go to source for doing painting right. Thanks for the recommendation though, I hadn't considered a tinted laquer instead. Lol I'm on the fence though, a lot of warping on many cabinet faces from previous homeowner flooding.
Hey there. I am going to use Sherwin Williams Aqua Kem Plus for my cabinets..totally worth the time and money to get. What is your go-to wood filler product? And, second, the Aqua Kem doesn't need thinning for the gun, but the primer does. I was reading a blog where someone used a 4:1 ratio to thin the primer and he added Floetrol to the mix as well but her didn't give the exact ratios.. is it 4:1 paint to water and THEN add the Floetrol to that mixture?
@@abacab87 The best thing to do is call the paint store department to get more accurate information. I plan on hiring a professional to sand my cabinets and then paint them to save on remolding. Besides, it's a rental property and no need to dump tons of money on expensive upgrades.
Great Videos! For those of us that don't do this for a living and only do it for a hobby. Is the home right gun good enough? Or would you recommend upgrading to something like what you have now?
Once a year I have to convince my wife painting our cabinets is a bad idea. Cause I know how much work it is to get it to come out good enough that it won’t drive me nuts every time I look at, open, close a door, or even just stand in the kitchen to talk to someone. Also I can say this is the first time I’ve seen someone use a hatchet to open a can of paint. Lol
I bought a sprayer to paint my kitchen cabinets. I had never used a sprayer before. What a hot friggin mess I had. How did you get the face frame off the cabinet?
@@joncrosby8988 hes not using a sanding sealer. he reduced the product for the first coat and called it a sanding sealer coat. for clears that product is considered self sealing, and a lot of people thin their first coat by 10 or 15 percent for various reasons. when you get a colored lacquer, some colors require the a clear base like this one, and some take a pigmented base. both will show tannin bleed and other kinds of staining without a primer coat... thats been my experience at least.
I lost all of my lower kitchen cabinets to hurricane Florence. I'm trying to keep the uppers since I did not have flood insurance and I've already been ripped off by two contractors. I'm an older woman I've never painted I'm not sure I could handle this. Is there any way I can keep the original cabinets which are about 14 years old and it's just a plain unfinished maple wood. I'm thinking of buying cheap lower cabinets from home Depot but I know they're never gonna match. should I go with just a lower cabinet and white and keep the maple on top or any thoughts what I could do? Thank you!
I’ve only used lacquer as a clear finish on wood. Just like the way it looks. So to get it with a color u can just have them mix it? Oh and could u brush it?
Lacquer is easy to get a nice finish with.BUT it smells horrible and I have realized that for me, I simply don't have the right spray area/booth to handle anything expect waterborne finishes. I would like to be able to spray conversion varnishes but they are too dangerous for a non-pro to be messing with.
For cabinets requiring a fine finish, would you recommend the Homeright HVLP or the Graco TC Pro Plus Airless Paint Sprayer? I have some cabinet renovations going on and will probably be using the paint gun to also paint some exteriors on a home in the future. I would prefer to get one good gun that could do both if possible. What is your expert opinion?
The answer to your question is right here. ruclips.net/video/jD6EZrgX5Dg/видео.html
The Harbor Freight sprayer nozzle is too small. You literally have to drill the hole out before you can use it for consumer-grade paint.
My first experience with the HF sprayer was great. I thinned my paint accordingly and all went well
I love this guy's OCD with explaining everything and doing a great editing to of editing ro skip the nitty gritty.
@@jimmyjohn8008 same
So you wouldn’t use paint because it takes too long to dry?
It might be helpful to write down the points you want to make then discuss them at the beginning or end of the video.
Then use the content to illustrate your points.
Just a helpful hint, get some hangers that go in the hinge holes and hang the doors, that way you can spray all sides at the same time
If you're using a 2.2-2.4 tip with around 40psi you can get a good finish. I used HVLP with Kilz after sanding cabinets then CabinetCoat over it. It's held up extremely well and lays so flat that you'll be amazed.
Try zinsser cover stain primer instead of kilz, I did and never went back! I even thin it with acetone to spray it on fine and dry fast.. I use avanti 5 stage hvlp. then I spray behr cabinet and trim with 1 pint of flotrol added per gallon. Always get amazing results.
I use one of the cheap paint guns with a 1.5mm nozzle (neiko brand - $35) and it functions phenomenally. The only issues I ran into were not its fault - I should have gotten the 2.0mm nozzle version, and I shouldn't have been using latex paint (I knew nothing about painting when I started)
What I did discover, however, was that if you mix latex paint with water based polyurethane at about 60:40 and then thin it to work in your gun (with a 2.0mm nozzle I don't think I would have to thin much, if it all) then you get a basically enamel paint like finish - it's been on my cabinets and seems to be wearing like damned iron. I did my first few cabinet doors with paint and then poly, and because it was even a little bit cool in my garage, it wouldn't dry evenly and I'd get spider cracking in the poly like mad. But mixing the paint with the poly, it solved the issue completely, and even though I have doors with paint/poly separately next to ones with the two mixed, you would NEVER be able to tell there was a difference. And for touchups on chips, paint/poly mixed together fills chips and scratches like a treat.
Great video if you want to spray. We rolled and brushed with no regrets. Great video. Thanks for updating us. What we did with our dark oak cabinets was to degrease with tsp and rinse rinse rinse it off and then sand so you don’t drive the grease into the wood. Sand until you think your done and then sand some more. Two coats of primer allowing a full day between coats to dry. Then two coats of an enamel top coat paint allowing at-least 2 or 3 days to dry between coats. Then let cure couple weeks before putting on hardware and installing. Lots of work but you won’t regret it. We just posted on our channel a 2 and half yr update video on our painting results. Still looks fantastic.
I used Benjamin Moore Advance paint on my cabinets. To get a professional look, it takes a lot of coats, a lot of sanding between coats, and a lot of dry time between coats. The doors are smooth with no grain showing. It’s a lot of work, but it would have cost me $5000 to have a pro do it. And yes, I did use a HVLP from Home Depot.
As heavily as you are invested in spraying, it might be worth your while to look into purchasing a small spray booth, (if you can figure out a place to put it). Personally, I would look for a used one, but even those cheap collapsible spray tents are a better option than your current set-up. It's my experience that overspray is like nuclear fallout; it settles on and contaminates everything, (even when it looks like it hasn't). So doing it in an area that is totally removed from everything else in your shop, (including that nice air compressor) is a good idea. Also: look into buying some spray socks for the old noggin.
All I could think about was the overspray getting on the laptop. LOL
Agree. I built a booth in my shop for painting cabinets and the overspray still gets everywhere. It's a fine dust that can be swept up, but still. I wear a full monkey suit. Respirator, goggles, cap, etc. I'm using an small airless sprayer.
I'd stick with his recommendation. Don't paint your cabinets. It is A LOT of work. 2 coats of primer and 2 coats finish. Dry time then prep in between. What was I 🤔
Consider using Shellac as primer/sealer . Dries super fast . sands much easier AND film thickness is half . (less toxic and the finish lacquer coat can be thinner . (less spray and fuming). Perfect base for a lacquer finish . (keep a few spray cans on hand for small items)
My husband built kitchen cabinets top and bottom and drawers in our second house. The ppl that bought it told me that everyone raves about the design and
Quality. So proud of him. He is gonna build shallow upper lightweight cabinets for our travel trailer. I want them a white tone to blend eith ceilings. The other 4 cabinets (small trailer) are brown which I want to sand and paint but Its veneer covered presdwood so I am scared of it not adhering well. Excellent video. Hard work.
Brother, very nice informative vid... Great job!... a... about spraying... you may consider following: a) set preesure ON the gun to 25-35 PSI, mix ratio on first coat 80% product to 20% LT, second and third coats 85%-90% ratio to l thinner... b) think about using an old coffe can as a "lazy Susan"... sort of... :-))))) c) also... when spraying I used method called "pushing product", not pulling, as you did... you start with ALL edges first, rotating them as you go... and then you start spraying FROM the edge closest to you TO edge farthest... it will allow you better visual control and NO overspray and fuzz... d) built a small table/stand on casters to put that coffe can on, it will allow you freedom from the wall...better control of finish... now... I say this, because I build furniture and cabinetry plus construction for the past 50 years... Try it and see if you like it... Good luck Boyo... :-))) You doing a great job... Greetings from Pensacola...
Coffee can on a lazy susan? Do you mean put door on top of can? I don't understand.
@@johnnytocino9313 hey J... yeap... that is exactly that... very simple yet very effective and cheap way to spray cabinet doors quickly... used myself for about 40 past years... and?... still works...
hello Johny... again... take a large coffe can.... put on a flat surface high for you to spray comfortably... use a lazy susan if you have one... put a door flat on the coffe can... spray edges first... than spray AWAY from you on 5-10degree angle to "push" product away... you will avoid all overspray at once... try and see... let me know how did you do...
Laquer is great stuff and dries so fast its a dream to work with. My only issue is all the prep. good stuff there. thanks for sharing.
Many years spraying cabinets and whole house in multi multi million dollar homes. Everything is sanded and filled to the 100th degree, only using bonds and spot putty, then a primer coat. After the primer coat you go very every inch with a high output light looking for ANY imperfections, which then got filled again and sanded. On to first coat of whatever final coating you choose, followed again by more light intense searching for imperfections which are fixed and on to the final 2 coats with sanding between if called for. Big money paint jobs!
I refinished my oak cabinets and removed the grain out of them. I paint cars for a living and did all the spraying in the paint booth.
I stripped the finish. Sanded it as smooth as possible. Bought an oil based primer. Found that water or hybrid primer didn't sand or spray as nice.
Anyways, oil based prime, sand, and prime a second time. 4 coats each time. Sanded the wood and first coat of primer with 180grit. Finished panels with 320 grit. Making sure to not burn through to the wood and touched up the spots.
I ended up using a water based epoxy paint. That stuff was unbelievable to spray. Layed down very nice and it dried very hard. Very happy with the results.
Used my cheap $60 HVLP 2.0mm fluid tip gun. Never tried an airless sprayer.
Hang those pieces from the ceiling with wire so you can spray all sides with ease. It's best to spray all sides of the frames too so the entire piece is sealed.
You got it the 360 coverage rule
I like your videos. But I work in a cabinet shop and it's actually a lot better to paint first and then drill the holes for your hinges afterwards. You waste a bunch of time trying to cover all the little hinge openings. It's much simpler to paint first then assemble afterwards
Thanks for that. Looking forward to trying that out
Love ur channel and casts. Helps us "beginner contractors" how to do a great job while picking the brain of a pro. BUT, its the customers choice I guess, thats not the color Id choose, lol. Love seeing real grain in a wood finish. I think most carpenters probably do... oh well. Great job on never cutting corners on prep. Im learning prep is 80% the battle in most projects. 👍
Thanks 👍
No, prep is at least 90%.
I sanded my honey oak cabinets too much and the wood was showing through the paint as green. I needed to use an oil primer first to seal it then I thinned down Cabinet coat with flowtrol and sprayed my cabinets with a 1.8 tip using a harbor freight HVLP gun. Basically came out perfect but I rolled the frames and they came out pretty damn good too. That stuff sets up flat
Don't recommend having the compressor electric motor with all those sparks in the same room as your spraying all that solvent! Big possibility of an explosion. Compressor should be outside or the other side of the wall in the workshop.
explosions are difficult to create.
@@brianmorris3614 You've never gone camping with the Cub scouts. 😎
My great uncle told me. Never paint cabinet's ,trim ,or other type's a natural woodwork. Reason paint show's Dirt, finger prints ect. Causing more maintenance (cleaning).
Happy Mother's Day! (Because you're the mother of all Handymen 😁)
Glad you're venting that garage really well. About a month ago a couple of painters blew up a million dollar home, spraying paint lacquer. Poor ventilation combined with a spark & BOOM!! House go bye-bye... 🚒~
(There's a YT video about it. Nobody was killed, thankfully, but the house was a total loss. No fire hydrants in the community!)
Not only does it kill humans, but it destroys houses too!! lol
PPG has a product called (break though). That stuff will stick to everything even glass and tile. I did a few experiments on my own with stained cabinets with lacquer finish. Didn't even need a primer. Lightly sand it. And whip down with de glosser.. sprayed 2 coat with a 315 fine finish tip and a airless sprayer... Applied one more coat just because it was that easy.
Thats awesome. I have an airless that I haven't used in years. I will look for that 315 tip.
@@TheHandyman1 they're yellow very very nice finish or 4:13 depending on what you straying.
Keep up the good videos.
Man I love your videos. A lot of help. I really like your attitude. Really easy and laid back. That way it all supposed to be while woodworking. That's why you always have a great finish product. Stay busy my friend.
Dude, your vids help me so much. I’m about 10yrs of experience behind you and I find these tutorials invaluable. Kudos. 👏
Awesome, thank you!
I got a soup ladle for dipping out the paint from the $1 store, bent it at a right angle to go down into the can better. And I used a wire mesh strainer from the $1 store to strain my paint. But I've only ever sprayed my house with the paint. And some doors. Wish I'd seen your video to know to prep those doors like you did, and sand between sprays. Still came out pretty good.
Oh, have you seen the Idaho Painter's method of painting cabinet doors? I forget what the brand was but it's a hanger system that allows the whole door to be painted at once and hung to dry without touching the paint or using painting triangles.
Oooo... I've seen some of that guy's work. No comment.
@@iditarod4081 *travels back in time* MARTY, WE HAVE TO STOP THE IDAHO PAINTER, HE'S PUTTING HOLES EVERYWHERE!
Hvlp - high volume LOW pressure! Turn your air down and you will get a better finish.
I'm glad I was not the only one who noticed a lot of pressure from the gun. This will also reduce the amount of paint you use on the job considerably.
Lol thought the exact same thing, sounds like 60 psi at least.
If you're going to spray, your best bet is a turbine setup...not that (supposed) HVLP air compressor gear. Turbinaire puts out a nice product at a fair price. That equipment also sets you up for shooting dyes and glazes to create a really professional looking furniture wood result (way better than stains which accent grain). Turbine gear will have significantly less overspray as well (again, better than the supposed HVLP air compressor gear). The turbine guns constantly bleed air even when the trigger isn't pulled, so you get a well-developed air flow pattern when you do pull the trigger to spray.
I just changed my hardware and put some pledge restore and shine on the existing wood cabinets. They turned out great. I did the math and painting wasn't economical because of the time I would have to put in. Probably cheaper to put in new cabinets LOL.
Good idea as they're prob shite cabinets to begin with.
@@johnnytocino9313 Well 40 yr old cabinets. My 40yr old dishwasher is still kicking too.
You could do both sides at the same time if you use small eye hooks, (bottom of lower cabinets, top of upper cabinets so the small holes won’t be seen), attach to ceiling with hooks or use 1 x 2 fur strips that are attached to ceiling on chains, then hang doors & frames from that at a comfortable height. Then you can walk around & spray both sides essentially at same time.
Just discovered your channels & been binge watching. Thanks for all your advice and no nonsense (sorry, I don’t care about how your childhood trauma affected your current life...you know how some will try to make video longer to get more money...hate that waste of my time) approach to your work.
I use Dunham Rockhard Wood filler ... works great. Sands very good.
I love this channel! your situation is realistic, you don't have a squeaky clean wood shop that looks like a commercial kitchen. helps to see it's not necessary to spend a million bucks to get professional results!
so if it takes 20-30 minutes between coats are you okay to leave the lacquer in the spray gun without it drying out or causing issues? also is it still the case that lacquer finishes tend to yellow over time? or is that an old issue that no longer occurs with new technology and products??
I hand painted 20 doors front and back 2 coats in one evening with SW Pro classic satin. The trick? Point a fan at them and they dry to the touch in 10 minutes.
Love this guy. Honesty, and just a guy I'd love to drink a beer with. Very helpful in all I'm trying to create, much appreciated.
Is it a good idea to sand where you're spraying paint won't the dust from sanding the cabinets get on the cabinets .maybe it would be more wise to sand and different room and spray in a different room
for what its worth, you could/should have hung all those from the pocket holes and hinge pockets to keep your edges clean.
A lazy Susan works good too 👍🏻
Oh and bare wood needs a lot of coats, or it still feels “boney” as we call it gotta put meat on . Much better with oil paint than water base or hybrid
Your air compressure is in a pocket where fumes can build. The arc from the motor could ignite heavy fumes. Have a vent by air compressure with it filtered. So filtered air passes by you.
Ok O.S.H.A. JK yeah I know you dont want a flash BANG
I think he is good large area and I'm sure he ventilates
Yes. I specifically went over my forced air ventilation in this video for the O.S.H.A guys. I do realized it is a valid concern and viewers should be aware that you need ventilation when spraying large amounts.
@@TheHandyman1 Dude how you explained it. did not sound like the air was coming from the compressor side. Remember there are people watching your channel that just don't know stuff that professional like us do. Just saying. Not cutting you down or any crap like that. I support your channel and content. If were crap I would not be watching.
Well that was definitely a bunch of nothing lol but you are hilarious and I love the fan over your table saw what a great idea I'm going to do that. keep the posts coming....
Haha...that jump at 8:15 is freakin hilarious!
Reminds me of Kramer from Seinfeld 😂😂😂
I was really wondering what the hatchet was for.... lol now I know a new use for one. I will have to put one in my painting kit
First!. Good video. Painting is one of my least favorite things to do, especially cabinets. May have to give the tinted lacquer a try
Its the only way to go.
@@TheHandyman1 While it might not be an aqueous paint, it is still a solvent based paint!
how many words can you type per minute on that laptop with freshly painted keys?
I use the titan HVLP sprayer,no need to control air with that machine and i use water base laquor with a shellac primer and the finish is phenomenal
I’m super happy someone else uses lacquer. I absolutely love the finish it produces. Plus... that drying time is ridiculously quick. Stumbled on your channel a couple days ago, I’ll definitely be watching every video 😂
This is great for unpainted cabinets, but what if your cabinets already have varnish but they varnish has worn away in some places due to water damage?
Just strip the sucker!
Love the mushroom cloud of dust from the compressor kicking in. LOL. Good you are not varnishing! Sanding in the "clean room" is the least of the problems. We all deal with what we have...LOL
Note make sure your electric sprayer can spray lacquer or flammable mixtures. And for God sake. Make sure when painting or spraying flammable products you keep adequate ventilation. Or you could easily start a fire.
Finish Carpentry did a video on that. Burned down a monster of a home.
The "paint" was too thick, unless you spray closer and slower. You didn't mention what thinner you used -I'm assuming acetone.
If you spray rinse your gun between coats, it will eliminate clogging. That stipple you say... Is dry spray. Avoid that and you'll do less sanding.
If you practice releasing the trigger half way as you begin to spray another pass, then fluid won't be excessive on the edges. Less chance for runs or puddles of paint.
One more thing, you're awesome and I learn a lot from you. Paintwork is however my expertise. Thanks for the video!
WOW! You are amazing. Can so appreciate your craft and attention to detail. Bravo.
Fun video. Great job. The whole time I was hoping you would move your computer. Did it get a nice coating?
Could you please specify your inlet pressure at the gun, tip size and number of turns out on your fluid control? All of that info., would be very helpful.
HVLP runs about 45-55 PSI at the gun air in and 12.5 to 14 SCFM
What do you do when you don't want white cabinets? Find a primer sealer and tinted accordingly than shoot a clear than glaze if desired?
I use water base paints Frome Lowe's home Depot through a develvis hvlp paint gun at work we build customer cabinets and oil and lacquer clears we just finished up some custom work on Bret Michaels motorhome yeah the lead guy Frome poison we are restoring an old GMC that I painted white with a HVLP paint gun man gotta know what ur doing as an automotive painter these cabinets are coming out killer
Do you shoot a clear after the base coat is finished? How well does the duramax roll over the edges to give that luxury look?
Couldn't go through all your comments, but you should try "positive pressure" ventilation. We use it in the fire service to remove smoke. Negative pressure pulls air through the path of least resistance . Positive will move air in all parts of the room.
I like that he shows the process in its entirety. Which video shows how they turned out?
A hatchet to open up a can! Now that's a man right there! I use a machete to cut my steak! Great vids!
I trim my toenails with a chainsaw
Ive painted hundreds of stained oak ("orange")cabinets for customers. I prime them with oil based primer then 2 coats of proclassic rolled on using a 3" roller. the Proclassic self levels so back brushing isnt necessary. Spraying is not possible or easy in a finished kitchen nor do i want to mask off the whole room to spray.
How do you handle doors with recess on the center (like the one he is painting)? I assume using a roller will cause it to accumulate on corners which would make for sub-optimal finish.
Title should be 'How your workshop changes color with every cabinet you're working on'.
Thanks
Handymen do sh-t like that all the time, unfortunately.
I wouldnt be sanding where we are painting if possible.
he blew it off with the compressor, it should be alright. You should see conditions in cabinet shops, everythings done in the same room except a negative pressure paint booth. But all touchups, etc are done in mountains of dust. In third world countries its even dustier and they achieve really good results still. But I suppose in your garage yes, sand on the driveway lol
at4:37 should pick up the cord and put over your shoulder then you wont get black marks on the edge of the workpiece just a little tip i learned many a moon ago ran a finishing dept for a few years so i have done some sanding lol
What product did you use to fill end grain and joints? Good vid, thanks.
Can this lacquer be applied over previously painted cabinets with a good 80 grit sand prior?
I'm looking forward to seeing the results. I'm going to be painting some existing cabinets, and I hadn't thought of using tinted lacquer. I'll definitely go that route now, I think.
Look up "The Idaho Painter" on youtube and see what he is using to paint interior cabinets that are already installed on the wall. I wanted to see what the pros use not what the salesmen at the paint shop wanted to sell. I found that they all use lacquer or something very similar .
@TheHandyman1 Idaho Painter is the GOAT of painting. I can respect that you defer to other experts and pros eventhough you are quite the pro too. He's definitely a good go to source for doing painting right. Thanks for the recommendation though, I hadn't considered a tinted laquer instead. Lol I'm on the fence though, a lot of warping on many cabinet faces from previous homeowner flooding.
Can you PLEASE tell me the colour blue you used? Many thanks!
Hey there. I am going to use Sherwin Williams Aqua Kem Plus for my cabinets..totally worth the time and money to get. What is your go-to wood filler product? And, second, the Aqua Kem doesn't need thinning for the gun, but the primer does. I was reading a blog where someone used a 4:1 ratio to thin the primer and he added Floetrol to the mix as well but her didn't give the exact ratios.. is it 4:1 paint to water and THEN add the Floetrol to that mixture?
What paint color do you use anyway?. Love the color, it looks pretty sick!
“Don’t paint your cabinets” while making a video on painting your cabinets. 🤔🤨wtf
I think he meant don't hand paint your cabinets but rather air spray paint them. He probably forgot to mention it.
I think because he is using llaquer? I want to know why this is better, other than time to dry. Is it more durable?
@@abacab87 The best thing to do is call the paint store department to get more accurate information. I plan on hiring a professional to sand my cabinets and then paint them to save on remolding. Besides, it's a rental property and no need to dump tons of money on expensive upgrades.
Did you overlook the "?" He's asking a question.
Laquer is not paint technically.
Great Videos! For those of us that don't do this for a living and only do it for a hobby. Is the home right gun good enough? Or would you recommend upgrading to something like what you have now?
Zander Kent I highly recommend the Bosch 3000-2. If you still need any recommendations a year later 😀
Once a year I have to convince my wife painting our cabinets is a bad idea. Cause I know how much work it is to get it to come out good enough that it won’t drive me nuts every time I look at, open, close a door, or even just stand in the kitchen to talk to someone. Also I can say this is the first time I’ve seen someone use a hatchet to open a can of paint. Lol
We spray cabinets with primer (for color) and laquer clear over it for protection and durability
What kind of color primer are you using? How many coats of clear lacquer go over the top?
Waiting for answer... 🤔
Too lazy to drive and hoping to do just enough on frame 15. What an inspiration.
I bought a sprayer to paint my kitchen cabinets. I had never used a sprayer before. What a hot friggin mess I had. How did you get the face frame off the cabinet?
Lol
A tip I picked up was paint sticks..... which can hold work away from the wall but serves as a handle to do both sides
Yes, ONLY varnish so you can touch up over the years. Never paint. Any outdoor painted decks? You get it :)
@@iditarod4081 not sure how long the latex will last? Good to always improve water sealing. For however long.
👋🏼 Ur AMAZING “HandyMan”👏👏👏👍🏼👍🏼💪🏼✌🏼😁
... Painting with Air can be Complex...to avoid paint runs, etc..
You know you've been YouTubin too long when you're watching a video of WWF's Steve Blackman not painting cabinets.
What do you regulate your pressure at (on the gun) and how wide do you set your spray span?
If you put two screws on that leaner board you could lift the piece off the table and reduce blowback or edging from it being on the table. Nice work.
Dude - your attention to detail and your passion for the work you do is both admirable and inspiring. I can't get enough of your videos.
I've seen nice results with products like Beyond Paint and it seems durable. What do you think?
Thanks for the quick reply! I also think that a compressor with an HVLP gun must spray smoother than the electric sprayers....
Love the paint can opener! A Hatchet! As I was watching I was wondering - "What's the hatchet for?" I should have known, to open paint cans!
ok Negan
I painted my cabinets with chevy white base with hardner added. came out perfect
I only use Valspar, head to head Sherwin Williams cannot compete in any category except most coats to achieve optimal coverage
should still use a primer for opaque lacquers. there is a primer specifically for duralaq nitrocellulose lacquer.
Isn't the tinted sanding sealer an equivalent?
@@joncrosby8988 hes not using a sanding sealer. he reduced the product for the first coat and called it a sanding sealer coat. for clears that product is considered self sealing, and a lot of people thin their first coat by 10 or 15 percent for various reasons. when you get a colored lacquer, some colors require the a clear base like this one, and some take a pigmented base. both will show tannin bleed and other kinds of staining without a primer coat... thats been my experience at least.
How does a homeowner go about purchasing this lacquer? I haven’t been able to since I’m not a “professional”. I’m in Texas btw. Thanks.
Learn the slang and walk in like you buy it all the time. Anyone could be a "professional"
We’ve painted cabinets in two different homes. Chalk paint is wonderful.
I lost all of my lower kitchen cabinets to hurricane Florence. I'm trying to keep the uppers since I did not have flood insurance and I've already been ripped off by two contractors. I'm an older woman I've never painted I'm not sure I could handle this. Is there any way I can keep the original cabinets which are about 14 years old and it's just a plain unfinished maple wood. I'm thinking of buying cheap lower cabinets from home Depot but I know they're never gonna match. should I go with just a lower cabinet and white and keep the maple on top or any thoughts what I could do? Thank you!
I’ve only used lacquer as a clear finish on wood. Just like the way it looks. So to get it with a color u can just have them mix it? Oh and could u brush it?
You can only spray it
The Handyman well shit! Thanks for the response tho 👍🏼
I have existing oak cabinets and want to paint them, but don’t want the texture. What would I use to fill the straw holes?
You remind me of me way, waaay back. You have a LOT to learn.
I agree that it’s best to go to a paint store for paint rather than Home Depot/Lowe’s,etc.
This guy is my spirit animal. Great video!
Great video but I need to ask you two questions. Did I see a laptop computer (opened) in your spray booth? When will those keys start sticking?
Lacquer is easy to get a nice finish with.BUT it smells horrible and I have realized that for me, I simply don't have the right spray area/booth to handle anything expect waterborne finishes.
I would like to be able to spray conversion varnishes but they are too dangerous for a non-pro to be messing with.
For cabinets requiring a fine finish, would you recommend the Homeright HVLP or the Graco TC Pro Plus Airless Paint Sprayer? I have some cabinet renovations going on and will probably be using the paint gun to also paint some exteriors on a home in the future. I would prefer to get one good gun that could do both if possible. What is your expert opinion?
I would not recommend any of those for a fine finish on kitchen cabinets.
Hi kindly advise me whether we can paint glossy laminated kitchen cabinets..if yes suggest me the paint...
Nice video, ... So, how is the finish of the HomeRight Finish Max vs the HVLP gun?
HVLP gun is very smooth and atomizes the paint very well.