Thanks for publishing this Nelly. I appreciate the extra detail in your videos over John's. When I'm putting together my Desmoquattro and Testastretta engines I always run some of your videos again because of the clarity and level of detail. Hope you have some more jobs to do that you can video
Thanks, plenty more to come this year I have some more customer jobs lined up as well as wanting to finish my 916 engine and a few other personal projects 😊
I agree, only did Chop's engine wet as originally the plan was to take the engine as soon as we finished and it stops it smearing when handling the engine. 😊
Nice build. Wonder if you or commenters ever follow the manual for belts tensionning. The manual calls for loosening the 3 camshafts allen screws when the shaft is immobilzed using the pins inserted on the side?
More often than not I have found that the timing only moves when using an old belt (Stretch) or if I have had to replace the pully wheel (i.e. disturbed timing) in these cases I will loosen it off and follow the process as per manual to get the belt tension. I should also mention that off camera I also did a basic timing check initially when I did a piston to valve clearance check. When the belt has settled I may well need to adjust the timing for LCR to accommodate any new belt stretch. But in this build I was able to set the belt to an initial tension to turn over the engine, this was slightly higher than spec by chance so when I set it to 140 +/- 5hz I then put it back to horizontal TDC and checked head cam timing pins could push back in which they did. I just think we missed filming that check, if they would not have fitted I would have loosened the 3 pully bolts to realign the timing and would have shown that.
Great things done in this video! Thanks! I was wondering for the belts tension : when you use the camshaft locker pins, shouldn't you unscrew the 3 adjusting pulley bolts to let the cam shaft exactly in his position while you apply tension on the belts? Thanks again. Cheers.
As per the other comment, if you are timing your own engine for the first time I would follow the manual. However, wore often than not I have found that the timing only moves when using an old belt (Stretch) or if I have had to replace the pully wheel (i.e. disturbed timing) in these cases I will loosen it off and follow the process as per manual to get the belt tension. I should also mention that off camera I also did a basic timing check initially when I did a piston to valve clearance check. When the belt has settled I may well need to adjust the timing for LCR to accommodate any new belt stretch. But in this build I was able to set the belt to an initial tension to turn over the engine, this was slightly higher than spec by chance so when I set it to 140 +/- 5hz I then put it back to horizontal TDC and checked head cam timing pins could push back in which they did. I just think we missed filming that check, if they would not have fitted I would have loosened the 3 pully bolts to realign the timing and would have shown that.
Not something I have been asked to so but I will have to see if I can do one as a side project sometime 👍🙂 Have all the parts to do a 1036 in a 996 engine though.
Thanks for this video as usual. I have a 1100 HM with 47 000 kms and that is interesting for me in the future . Do you know where I can find also the shim clearance calculator. What is your next project ?
Haven't decided on which is the next project, I have some small items to resolve on the ST2 a Auto Blipper to fit to the 1199 and then its whether to rebuild a damaged 1299 or do the 916SPS build. There are some customer jobs coming in as well including a 916 engine and another Hypermotard bottom end build. There will be some channel updates coming soon including memberships etc which will include Shim exchange services and the Calc sheet
I just bought a 2009 monster 1100. The valve broke on the previous owner and put a hole in the piston. I haven't torn it apart yet to see the extent of the damage. In your experience, without being able to see it, would you lean towards a rebuild or look for a used engine? I'm new to the Ducati world, any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
Hello, im rebuilding a ducati m600 1995 engine, its main bearings are RHP 7307X2TB and RHP 7207X2ETN, could I replace them with SKF 7307 BECBM and SKF 7207 BECBM ?
I would not recommend anything other than the RHP bearings, for the small saving you will make using alternates it is not worth the risk. I cannot remember the contact face angle but it is an odd one in the RHP bearings which makes them difficult to match.
Great video! A question on something you may have experience with, on the selector drum, does the small spacer/shim on the detent side have a wave or is it a flat spacer? I am busy with my 999 and when I disassembled the gearbox I noticed a slight bend on the small spacer on the selector drum. I have the correct end float but only if I move the drum with a bit of force to compress the shim? Does not seem correct to me.
Not had a wavy shim in any Ducti engine I have taken apart or built for the shift drum. They should be flat and there are different sizes for some of the Ducati provided shims listed in the parts manual. I think you may have a damaged shim on yours. They are cheap to source from Ducati.
Top Video👍🏼
i'm rebuilding my 696 engine with 87000 km this winter.
Thanks, good luck with your build 👍🙂
Another great video and really pleased your back.
Many thanks, will be getting back to more regular content this year. Thanks for the support. Hit like to support the channel if not done already 👍🙂
Top man glad your back, being missing your educational videos helped me out.
Thanks, am planning to be more regular with content this year to get the channel back to growing 👍🙂
Fine looking engine 👍
Sure is, it came up really nice 😍
Thanks for publishing this Nelly. I appreciate the extra detail in your videos over John's. When I'm putting together my Desmoquattro and Testastretta engines I always run some of your videos again because of the clarity and level of detail. Hope you have some more jobs to do that you can video
Thanks, plenty more to come this year I have some more customer jobs lined up as well as wanting to finish my 916 engine and a few other personal projects 😊
I find leaving the silicone on for an hour or so once cases are together, the dried silicone will peel off rather than smearing a wet one on the cases
I agree, only did Chop's engine wet as originally the plan was to take the engine as soon as we finished and it stops it smearing when handling the engine. 😊
You so great video 👍
Thank you 🤗
Nice build. Wonder if you or commenters ever follow the manual for belts tensionning. The manual calls for loosening the 3 camshafts allen screws when the shaft is immobilzed using the pins inserted on the side?
More often than not I have found that the timing only moves when using an old belt (Stretch) or if I have had to replace the pully wheel (i.e. disturbed timing) in these cases I will loosen it off and follow the process as per manual to get the belt tension. I should also mention that off camera I also did a basic timing check initially when I did a piston to valve clearance check.
When the belt has settled I may well need to adjust the timing for LCR to accommodate any new belt stretch. But in this build I was able to set the belt to an initial tension to turn over the engine, this was slightly higher than spec by chance so when I set it to 140 +/- 5hz I then put it back to horizontal TDC and checked head cam timing pins could push back in which they did.
I just think we missed filming that check, if they would not have fitted I would have loosened the 3 pully bolts to realign the timing and would have shown that.
Thanks mate
Great things done in this video! Thanks!
I was wondering for the belts tension : when you use the camshaft locker pins, shouldn't you unscrew the 3 adjusting pulley bolts to let the cam shaft exactly in his position while you apply tension on the belts?
Thanks again.
Cheers.
As per the other comment, if you are timing your own engine for the first time I would follow the manual.
However, wore often than not I have found that the timing only moves when using an old belt (Stretch) or if I have had to replace the pully wheel (i.e. disturbed timing) in these cases I will loosen it off and follow the process as per manual to get the belt tension. I should also mention that off camera I also did a basic timing check initially when I did a piston to valve clearance check.
When the belt has settled I may well need to adjust the timing for LCR to accommodate any new belt stretch. But in this build I was able to set the belt to an initial tension to turn over the engine, this was slightly higher than spec by chance so when I set it to 140 +/- 5hz I then put it back to horizontal TDC and checked head cam timing pins could push back in which they did.
I just think we missed filming that check, if they would not have fitted I would have loosened the 3 pully bolts to realign the timing and would have shown that.
always so enjoyable to watch you work. have you built an 848 with the big bore kit1038/1040cc?
Not something I have been asked to so but I will have to see if I can do one as a side project sometime 👍🙂 Have all the parts to do a 1036 in a 996 engine though.
@@DesmoWerx I have wondered how much power and torque you'd get from it and is it worth it
Thanks for this video as usual. I have a 1100 HM with 47 000 kms and that is interesting for me in the future . Do you know where I can find also the shim clearance calculator.
What is your next project ?
Haven't decided on which is the next project, I have some small items to resolve on the ST2 a Auto Blipper to fit to the 1199 and then its whether to rebuild a damaged 1299 or do the 916SPS build. There are some customer jobs coming in as well including a 916 engine and another Hypermotard bottom end build.
There will be some channel updates coming soon including memberships etc which will include Shim exchange services and the Calc sheet
Excellent video and great amount of detail
Do you have somewhere we can download you shim clearance calculator?
Thanks 👍🙂
Will be doing something for an upcoming channel update around a shim exchange service and the calc tool I pulled together.
I just bought a 2009 monster 1100. The valve broke on the previous owner and put a hole in the piston. I haven't torn it apart yet to see the extent of the damage. In your experience, without being able to see it, would you lean towards a rebuild or look for a used engine? I'm new to the Ducati world, any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.
How much roughly did the parts come to? As in the New Bearings, Gaskets and so on. The items you used not the dressing up of the engine?
Hi Darrell, The parts for the actual engine build were £700 all in.
Hello, im rebuilding a ducati m600 1995 engine, its main bearings are RHP 7307X2TB and RHP 7207X2ETN, could I replace them with SKF 7307 BECBM and SKF 7207 BECBM ?
I would not recommend anything other than the RHP bearings, for the small saving you will make using alternates it is not worth the risk. I cannot remember the contact face angle but it is an odd one in the RHP bearings which makes them difficult to match.
How many km or miles this engine had? Thank you
I am not sure, I don't think it was much but LCR was restoring the whole bike. It may be in one of his first videos on the 1100
Great video! A question on something you may have experience with, on the selector drum, does the small spacer/shim on the detent side have a wave or is it a flat spacer? I am busy with my 999 and when I disassembled the gearbox I noticed a slight bend on the small spacer on the selector drum. I have the correct end float but only if I move the drum with a bit of force to compress the shim? Does not seem correct to me.
Not had a wavy shim in any Ducti engine I have taken apart or built for the shift drum. They should be flat and there are different sizes for some of the Ducati provided shims listed in the parts manual. I think you may have a damaged shim on yours. They are cheap to source from Ducati.
@@DesmoWerx thank you! That confirms my suspicion! Will add a new one to my list of required parts!