had a 696 in the workshop with the same issue, except it was much worse that the cage has been blown into bits and all the balls are gathering to one end of the bearing BUT miraculously still running and sounds like big end bearing noise everytime you blip the throttle, nobody knew it was of this kind of problem and thought it is the big end until we took the clutch cover off.
Nice surprice in that engine! Would still love the list with all the bearings types(not oem) besides the main bearing(are known), oil seals and replacement washers for the 1100 engine😉 I appreciate your help and content!
@@DesmoWerx you can have it ground and heat treated and use toyota 4age undersize bearings for way less cost. there's also a volkswagon bearing that fits too i'm told.
Hi, another great informative video, I have a Multistrada 1200 which I try to do all the maintenance on myself and your insight into the Ducati engines is great. Just a quick question about this engine, is it possible that the bearing failure of the ball race in the case has caused excessive movement of the crank which has hastened the wear on the shells? Or was there not any real movement of the crank in the cases?
that's a real wacky lucky dip in the bottom, never seen one like that. do you have the heads to see if any of the main bearing debris has got into the oil system? i've seen big end and cam journal scoring from bad mains. i remember using one of the genuine primary drive gear tools like that one at a training course years ago. there was a big bang as the tool broke. you can put the alternator cover back on with a few screws and then use the alt cover tool to push against the crank to pull the lh case off the rh case.
Hi Brad, the owner is likely rebuilding the top end I have shared with him what I found, good point on getting him to check the oil ways and journal surfaces 👍 I don't like the primary gear removal tool its such a poor design, have done the alternator trick before when at a track and did not have all the tools available 🙂 Thanks for the comment and watching, I have followed your settings from your website a number of times during builds
@@DesmoWerx wonder if the main bearing debris took the big ends out, or they just failed on their own? lately i've seen cranks that look like the big end surface is sort of delaminating, or coming off in spots. whether that's the hardened surface from the sulphur nitriding coming off i don't know, don't know enough about that. but not actual worn away sort of wear like you have.
@bradthebikeboy this one looks to just be wear due to debris in the oil, the wear is consistent across both the crank journal and shell bearings with no signs of tearing/spotting in the surface of the journal that would point to delamination. I think this is just a case of improper oil changes or perhaps a bad grade of oil.
Hi, there is one drain plug, the other port opening is for the strainer within the sump, although you can drain a lot of oil out via this opening as well. 🙂
Another interesting video thanks Nellie. My 1098 main bearings were about twice as bad as these ones. The balls were well out of round as well as the races pitted worse. At just 44000km I wonder why these big twins have such poor bearings (or inherint poor design)
@@calvinhutton57 not great but not as bad. All the white metal gone down to the copper but not badly scored. One had a piece of copper missing. Crank journal is ok
@@LeTessier916 about the same as my 999 at 24000km, although my mains were fine. I wonder if the bearing area is just too small for these size engines. I am hoping some lightweight rods and pistons will make my engine more reliable, I could not find any other reason why the bearings would have failed.
I think its the change to the later mains, they have less ball bearings in the races on the right side of the engine to share the load, I think this may lead to the higher failure rate. The pitting can also start due to poor oil or infrequent changes. The big ends are usually like any other engine if the oil is good and changes frequently they should last a long time.
Yes, quicker throttle response as engine spins up slightly quicker. However better to turndown the original steel version than use one of the aftermarket aluminum ones as they can fail quite easily.
@DesmoWerx thanks for the feedback. How lighter of a flywheel is safe. 1 or 1.5lbs ok without stalling issues. Motor is paul smart ds1000. Another question. Aluminum cam belt pully wheels, are these worth buying since they are lighter.
@@DesmoWerx what type of cost to strip and refinish the casings on a 99/996 Bip engine, I understand that the parts can’t really be estimated till you get in there.
I think with any engine it comes down to how well they are looked after. I have seen all sorts of variable conditions irrespective of mileage or use. Most wear is as a result of extended service intervals with poor quality oils being used.
I cannot express how grateful I am for you and your videos. As an 848 and 1199 owner it’s great to tinker on stuff yourself than bring to the dealer
Glad the videos are of help and worth the watch 🙂 hit that subscribe button as there is more content coming on both bikes 👍🙂
Nice video. I like that you do not rush through the teardown and take the time to explain your process. Helps a lot. Thanks.
Glad you enjoy the videos, thanks for watching 🙂
Superb vid 👌
Very interesting.
Thanks for posting 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Very interesting Nelly, thats what I was expecting with mine 😂 might have some spairs if he needs them..
Thanks Chop's I think it may only need a crank (until I measure everything).
It was certainly an eye opener when it came apart, strange debris! 😮
Well done, can’t wait for the rebuild video: Ride safe & Godspeed!
Thanks, once I have agreed the repair with the owner we will get that rebuild video out.
BIG JOB
Yes, its a challenge 🙂
Thank you Sr.
Your welcome 😊
had a 696 in the workshop with the same issue, except it was much worse that the cage has been blown into bits and all the balls are gathering to one end of the bearing BUT miraculously still running and sounds like big end bearing noise everytime you blip the throttle, nobody knew it was of this kind of problem and thought it is the big end until we took the clutch cover off.
Yep its a common misdiagnosis problem when they go, but worth doing both the mains and big ends when you have the engine apart anyway.
Nice surprice in that engine!
Would still love the list with all the bearings types(not oem) besides the main bearing(are known), oil seals and replacement washers for the 1100 engine😉 I appreciate your help and content!
Hi Patrick, it was a surprise indeed. I will pull together a list of the bearings and share it.
Great job 👍👍👍love your videos
Glad you like them, thanks for watching 👍🙂
Video molto interessante!
Thanks 👍🙂
Hey desmo how do you fix the play the the rods have you show it at 1:50 how would you fix the play there in the rods ?
Nellie your facial expression said it all. Either way its going to make the credit card tremble. ( STH WESTLAND NZ 😥)
I think it might only need a crank, but its finding a good 2nd hand one, hopefully other than that the costs will be as for a normal build. 🙂
@@DesmoWerx you can have it ground and heat treated and use toyota 4age undersize bearings for way less cost. there's also a volkswagon bearing that fits too i'm told.
Hi, another great informative video, I have a Multistrada 1200 which I try to do all the maintenance on myself and your insight into the Ducati engines is great. Just a quick question about this engine, is it possible that the bearing failure of the ball race in the case has caused excessive movement of the crank which has hastened the wear on the shells? Or was there not any real movement of the crank in the cases?
Hi Thanks for watching the videos, glad they are of interest. The crank wear on the shells is more likely down to the condition of the oil. 😮
that's a real wacky lucky dip in the bottom, never seen one like that. do you have the heads to see if any of the main bearing debris has got into the oil system? i've seen big end and cam journal scoring from bad mains.
i remember using one of the genuine primary drive gear tools like that one at a training course years ago. there was a big bang as the tool broke. you can put the alternator cover back on with a few screws and then use the alt cover tool to push against the crank to pull the lh case off the rh case.
Hi Brad, the owner is likely rebuilding the top end I have shared with him what I found, good point on getting him to check the oil ways and journal surfaces 👍
I don't like the primary gear removal tool its such a poor design, have done the alternator trick before when at a track and did not have all the tools available 🙂
Thanks for the comment and watching, I have followed your settings from your website a number of times during builds
@@DesmoWerx wonder if the main bearing debris took the big ends out, or they just failed on their own? lately i've seen cranks that look like the big end surface is sort of delaminating, or coming off in spots. whether that's the hardened surface from the sulphur nitriding coming off i don't know, don't know enough about that. but not actual worn away sort of wear like you have.
@bradthebikeboy this one looks to just be wear due to debris in the oil, the wear is consistent across both the crank journal and shell bearings with no signs of tearing/spotting in the surface of the journal that would point to delamination. I think this is just a case of improper oil changes or perhaps a bad grade of oil.
It looks like there are two oil drain plugs on the bottom of the case. Which is the "normal one" and what purpose does the other one serve?
Hi, there is one drain plug, the other port opening is for the strainer within the sump, although you can drain a lot of oil out via this opening as well. 🙂
@@DesmoWerx There's a seperate "drain" for the oil strainer? Huh, didn't know that.
where can I get that primary gear tool?
I got mine via GBmotorcyleproducts on Ebay, although some Ducati specialists also sell equivalent tools
Another interesting video thanks Nellie. My 1098 main bearings were about twice as bad as these ones. The balls were well out of round as well as the races pitted worse. At just 44000km I wonder why these big twins have such poor bearings (or inherint poor design)
How did your big end shells look? They do not seem to last either...
@@calvinhutton57 not great but not as bad. All the white metal gone down to the copper but not badly scored. One had a piece of copper missing. Crank journal is ok
@@LeTessier916 about the same as my 999 at 24000km, although my mains were fine. I wonder if the bearing area is just too small for these size engines. I am hoping some lightweight rods and pistons will make my engine more reliable, I could not find any other reason why the bearings would have failed.
I think its the change to the later mains, they have less ball bearings in the races on the right side of the engine to share the load, I think this may lead to the higher failure rate. The pitting can also start due to poor oil or infrequent changes. The big ends are usually like any other engine if the oil is good and changes frequently they should last a long time.
@@DesmoWerx cheers, will keep that in mind.
Never enough of ducati nuts tx mate. Btw, it is likely that alternator wires failures is due to excessive play in lh main bearing
Thanks for watching, good point on the bearing failure leading to the debris 👍
Hello. Is there any benefit from replacing the standard flywheel to a lighter one. Loving the videos. Cheers Jason
Yes, quicker throttle response as engine spins up slightly quicker. However better to turndown the original steel version than use one of the aftermarket aluminum ones as they can fail quite easily.
@DesmoWerx thanks for the feedback. How lighter of a flywheel is safe. 1 or 1.5lbs ok without stalling issues. Motor is paul smart ds1000. Another question. Aluminum cam belt pully wheels, are these worth buying since they are lighter.
Shows what regular oil changes do to keep things working. My hypermotard is around the same miles, hopefully better internally than your customer 😢
It was the strangest debris I have seen in an engine, but yes regular oil changes may have prevented some of the issues seen here.
Not great news for the fella😮
No, but he was expecting issues in the bottom end, hopefully we can find a good crank for not too much to keep the costs down 🤞
@@DesmoWerx what type of cost to strip and refinish the casings on a 99/996 Bip engine, I understand that the parts can’t really be estimated till you get in there.
ducati does this on purpose low quality main bearing if maintenence not kept motor only lasts 20k miles replaced with ceramic 80k no problem
I think with any engine it comes down to how well they are looked after. I have seen all sorts of variable conditions irrespective of mileage or use. Most wear is as a result of extended service intervals with poor quality oils being used.
Every Ducati sounds broken from the factory, how exactly are you supposed to hear if it's rumbling 😂
You would know believe me, they are noisy but not rumbling 😃