Junkyard Honda K24Z Engine Restoration & Upgrade! - FULL BUILD
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- In todays video, we tear down this k24z3 from a 2010 Honda Accord, and rebuild it & upgrade it to be a clean, RWD, set up! It needed a surprise full valve job, which I learned to do in this video, s well as a new timing chain kit, head gasket, head studs & tons of new stuff like a. big turbo, RWD Intake manifold & More! This engine will live to see another day & a lot of boost! Now we just have to fab up some motor mounts and see where we end up!
Main Channel: @RobbieFerreira
Big thank you to everyone who helped this engine come together, make sure you check everyone out down below!👇🏼
RHB Turbo: I used the Super Six
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rustoleum.ca (CA)
rustoleum.com (US)
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Garage 16: Local Honda Shop!
www.garage16.ca
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PO Box 94 Wasaga Beach, ON, L9Z 1A2
Tip for taping stuff off for paint… use aluminum foil instead of paper. It forms easily around odd surfaces and holds it shape.
Wow I’m stealing this… for at least weird angles and shit that’s gotta be 10 x easier?? Cool tip man!
20:32 @@robertfarmer6316
That is how we do it in commercial and industrial painting.
@robertfarmer6316 I swear it will make your like 10 times easier. You can use that trick on anything, houses, power plants, pipline. I really mean anything.
Further tip, use scotch tape and cover the weird shape completely, then use a rubber mallet on the edges and it will cut the tape perfectly to the edge and you have a PERFECT tape over a painted surface.
Love that he’s kind of a noob here. Called it a piston head hole instead of a combustion chamber. Not making fun. Just love to see someone new at things like this learning to do it instead of getting someone else to do it for them. Kudos good sir
super cool comment.
wouldnt that be called poser
@@m4xripperbro with no chill here. We all make mistakes. He is fully immersed in cars and how they work, so no, I don’t believe he would be called a poser.
I am so happy that robbie started making videos again
Factz his videos are way too good to not be posting
he has the second account he posts often on
its bobby
@maruiacancer6ur a bot
Tech tip: they make weighted sockets that also help removing crank bolts like that
I had no idea they existed until I snapped my standard & impact sockets. LIFE CHANGER. I bought a whole set 😂
and cheaper. like 20 lol
Yea that and just heating it up would have helped them too lmao
This is a crazy nice shop for a entry level mechanic. Must have some of that family wealth. Looks fun as hell.
Might of made it himself
He has a main channel
It might be a little late, but you should consider getting a Type S oil pump for more RPMs. PRL Motorsports make a kit for the K24Z3 which should make it quite easy to install. Besides that, great build!
The whole swap is wrong. I’m not even sure you can slap a k20a2 pump in this. This whole engine design is diff from the rest of the k-series line up
I was gonna say, thinking that it is safe to run a turbo in a stock K24Z3 without changing at least the CR down below 10:1 is gonne ba disaster for him. You basically either run this engine with good internals stock and an ECU, or you get a K24A2 for cheap (~impossible these days) or boost the crap out of a K24A1 from a CR-V, which is probably the best route these days.@@DCbuildz
The type s oil pump is compatible but only with a adapter kit. & depending what the k24z3 is out of its either 10.5 or 11.1 compression, but these engines have longer rods. They're actually great for a low boost build stock, event better with a type s head!
Hb un
@@DCbuildz
Former engine builder: I used to (assuming the engine had compression) would dump atf down the spark plug hole into the cylinder 24 hours before tear down then use oven cleaner and carbon comes right off and so does grease/oil
That oven cleaner would damage aluminum cylinder block
You are so wrong dude. Machinist here too. You need a 6pack of beer to help get th3 carbon off . You need to stay hydrated
Oven cleaner is no good for aluminium,it will remove the carbon but it will also etch the surface.
I always used ATF and acetone in a 50/50 mix it also worked for stuck rings for motors that sat for years. You can dial back acetone if you are worried about etching aluminum.
Burnt valves like that are commonly caused by running the valve lash too tight. Always do your valve adjustments guys.
Good to know, i was guessing it was from nitrous
Looking good! Something you should probably look into if you're not happy with the valve cover paint job, is powder coating. It looks great and holds up really well.
Robby, we need an update on the hot wheels wall you were gonna do...i remember sending you like 3 of them, believe it was a civic and a s10 pickup don't remember the other...keep up the great vids
He did say on one of the more recent videos it’s still on the to do list. I sent a few as well. Preludes
yeah its been years since he said he was gonna do it
Hey Bobby, that last bit of your video really means a lot. It's just what I needed to hear. I've been following your channel for a while, and I see it's something we all struggle as people, as humans. Appreciated! Also, if you change the oil pump in the sump, you can get high RPM, hope it's not too late.
The valve hammer tool is good for removing. Because those keepers get wedged in the retainer over time. The tool in the red box with the bar and lever arm is good for reinstalling for the reason you got it. Both tools are necessary in this case
Yes this is the correct way to do this.
Definitely needed the leverage tool for reinstalling the valves.
This is the way
For future reference, Hondabond is the absolute tits. It is a bit pricy, but you’ll never want to use any other rtv. plz get rid of that orange stuff 😅
I've never seen such idiocrasy before, the k24 and k24z share the same block, and just a minor change in the head. headstuds for the k24a will work for the k24z head. also paints the crank pulley, which has the rubber isolator that will get eaten up by the paint over time. if you're going to lap the exhaust valves lap the intake valves too, you're already there so do it once. The metal screen that came with the gasket set was for the PCV filter under the valve cover.
they dont share the same block. the minor changes between the blocks and the R40 Block can certain heads swappable to an extent but certain heads may need machining. sensor are different and get tedious with clearances on the face, and cooling passages may work for the k20z3 but not the k24a2 unless machined. keep in mind aswell the “minor change” in heads is the biggest fumble of words ive ever seen because of the IEM and flow. go build a k24a engine or both k24z’s using an R40 Head and by the end you will realize how dumb you look.
Were you shat out of your mom’s womb knowing everything or did you have to learn like the rest of us?
The lever kit is used when reinstalling the valve spring keepers
Cool project but building the head was making me grit teeth cringe. The poor head 😭😭
Really good video. I'm only half way through so i may be speaking too early but i stopped when you was putting springs in . But lapping your valves is always the first thing you do. They make s compound for it. It marries your surfaces ...... damn it i spoke too soon lol carry on..
Just a heads up the 2 bottom bolts on the timing cover are shouldered which aligns the timing cover if it's off there's a chance the crank pulley will eat the front seal
Would have been a good idea to resurface the head and block to ensure a perfect seal on the head gasket. Either could have been slightly warped due to overheating or just regular use. There is almost always some warp after disassembly.
Great work but we shouldn’t ignore the fact that you called the the combustion chamber a “ piston circle” 😂😂😂
For local shops myb in the future go and meet the people and myb get a tour of their shop and stuff that would be fun to watch learns sth new and plus content.
Dude I’m so hyped to see a thorough RWD k swap build!! I’m k20 swapping my 280zx and can’t find nearly enough rwd kswap videos! Excited to follow along with your build while I work on mine!
A lot of yall hating. He’s clearly a rook. Mistakes were made but anyone who’s worked on anything has fucked up. Cut him some slack and educate him. Good job man. Do some more research on things and while it’s open, just handle everything you can.
doin a great job. just curious, why did you go for a k24z engine if theyre such a pain to find stuff for? or was it you just didnt know and obviously you arent just gonna toss an engine because its difficult
Robbie! Burned valves often comes from oil burning, thrue oil rings on the pistons
Consider new piston rings and oil rings for a cheap insurance that it doesnt happen again
@robbie
Did you change the valve seals? Going that far into the head, I would change all of the seals.
Stop paying for express shipping bro. Its the biggest scam in the world
45 minute video! FUCK YES!
When I worked at a Honda dealership, we got 2 CR-Vs K24Z7 which had no compression cylinder 3 on both. We came to the conclusion that both vehicles used the cheapest fuel grade causing pre-detonation on just that cylinder, eventually burning a hole in it. One of those engines made it into my garage after paying the $125 core charge and a few weeks later I got my hands on a K20Z3 Head for the $100 core charge. You should consider a K20Z3 Head K24Z7 Block build. 260hp all motor. Just an idea.
That's what I was thinking using regular instead of premium. Detonated. I would of rebuilt that head
My Audi had the same kind of broken valve, it was because it was running so lean during pulls that the spark plugs melted and I guess a chunk of it went through the valve... Don't know if that can help lol
Awesome build. And your gentle valve removal tool works when you air the cylinder up.
On the k tune oil cap did he put the sticker on wrong?
why not paint the "HONDA" purple??
I heard scotch brite pads are really abrasive the microscopic particles can get into the bearings and destroy the motor.
I don't think I've ever seen a single exhaust port engine before, huh.
Amazing build though mate, that was really entertaining!
Excited tonsee where this goes mate.. however I cant warn you enough about what potentially will happen, please get the head and blocked decked and measured.. it's going to throw gaskets.
Can't wait to see this engine finished!
I’m a 1st time viewer & I like what I see. this dude has a future, but I bet he gets a ton of unwanted unsolicited feedback from all the Experts that live to hit RUclips Comment Sections. this is where they can unload their supreme premium expertise on us inexperienced at life. Godspeed, Dude.
Next time u clean up an engine try something call Aluminium Brightner (that's bloody good stuff)... engine however is looking real good bud and can't wait to see it in Jenny!!! 😎👌
Need a k24a2 cylinder head
Finally our Z engines getting some Ytube love. I'm also using the purple garnish for the engine. Ive been going back n forth on how I want to make power (for a year) I bought a K24A2 head I was going to use. But now I'm feeling like a turbo might be the easiest way to go. I'm definitely going to your guys for the turbo. I like the triple bearing look. Are you swapping in a Manual?
Thats not how gasket maker works homie. Put it on, tighten the bolts to where they barely, and I mean barely move the gasket maker, THEN let it dry and once its dry, torque to spec.
**Edit**
I should also mention I did it wrong for years too and never understood why my thermostats failed and leaked 6-8 months later. Some old head showed me my errors and I have NOT had an issue since then.
I'm not like other people I'm not going to be negative and only point out the bad things that's freaking stupid I love your video it's great but just wanted to let you know at 7:27 what cylinder heads are you talking about? 😂
Also just a little tip to make your video even better try get a microphone that helps with the echoing in the shop. So far The video is great and the way you tell the story it seems to be on point which is the most important part! Now Time to press play and resume watching because I'm planning on doing my K20 build and swap into my talking Miata. Normally I'm a Ford V8 guy but I like Hondas too. And BMWs
"They were supposed to show up Friday.... They didn't show up..."
Bro. I feel that down in my bones...
DELIVER MY SHIT! I CAN SEE IT'S IN THE CITY YOU FUCKS! I HAVE TRACKING......
Hey buddy, nice video REALLY enjoyed it. I just picked up a k24z7 from a 2013 Honda civic Si. I'm going to eventually swap it into my 1991 isuzu pickup truck when finances permit. That's why I'm collecting what I need little by little to make this rear wheel drive conversion happen😁😁. So do you mind sharing where did you get your rear wheel drive conversion motor mounts from. Don't know if you made a video of that yet, and I will look to see what rear wheel drive transmission conversion kit you went with. Thanks again and you take care. 🤙🤙😁😁👍👍💪💪
Piston,, cylinder head, potato... potato... Motor ,, engine.... AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😜 lols
Tip for harmonic balancer removal
Product: Lisle 77080
19 mm harmonic balancer socket. $23.99 USD(if you get it in sale)
19mm big mofosocket . Use any (automotive) Regular impact, 3 uggas will zip any balancer off or your money back.
You suppose to use heavy weighted sockets to pull off the main pulley🤦♂️🤦♂️
Can't speak for the K24 valve, but the D16Y7 in my 97 civic had a valve that chipped/broke a small piece of the edge, with 0 damage to the piston or cylinder wall. It was an exhaust valve, so we are guessing it got sucked out when it broke. Not that it matters, 100 miles after rebuilding the head, it threw a rod LOL never had any major knock or suspicious noise, and all the valves still worked after so none fell. Not sure what happened there. But the car had 270 or 280k miles.
I really thought I will learn something from this video but now that I watched it just sitting here in shock and don't know where to start. Sooner or later you will realise all your mistakes but maybe you get lucky and the engine will be reliable.
- You supposed to check the valve guide clearances, these engine prone to wear out exhaust valve guides that cause oil burning. You missed an opportunity there.
- Head gasket and timing chain I would not use anything other than OEM, especially for an stock rebuild. Would've been money better spent than stupid fancy dressing up hardware.
- That little rectangular rubber seal is the VTC screen, goes on the front, opposite side of the VTEC solenoid and worth changing it especially on an engine with questionable history.
- On the rocker cover gasket you supposed to put a tiny bit of Hondabond on the 4 corners of the gasket where it bends upwards, or it will definitely leak. You probably already noticed that by now.
- For RWD applications you supposed to install a RWD sump/chain buffle especially if you take it to a track, or it will suffer of oil starvation.
By the way I really envy your garage...while I work on the side of the road. Good luck!
Great information bro. I have the same engine from an Acura tsx 2013, k24z3 and I was so worried that I should have gotten a k24a2 because of rbb head, this video gave me incredible confidence in completing my 88crx S-1 built AWD BUILD. Way to go guy.
My 2011 tsx k24z3 makes over 225whp and 170 wtq with basicbolt ons and tune. They can make power if you mod them right.👍 if you intake manifold swap, rbc,rrc,ect.. port match it to the k24z3 head, it has the biggest intake ports of all kseries.
Not just the head… but the block itself is diff as well. Not sure if there’s even any aftermarket support for these. Simply starting with the another k-series engine is 10x’s better just FYI
This was such an informative video. I've watched it several times and enjoyed it every time......thank you. I would love it if you could make a video on rebuilding a Toyota 3sgte. It's a very popular engine and by giving us the part numbers, manfacturer & the cost of everything used is so heplful. It also gives us an approximate cost of our project. Keep up with these great videos!! 👍
Why are you using a regular impact or the infamous holder ? I thought it was known in the Honda community, that you use a power bar (part no. PBT70867) with the ultra think impact socket. Maybe im spilling the beans, but it’s worked for me every time. Plus that power bar will change your life. Just imagine be able to use impact in a space only big enough for a socket wrench.
The RHB story is similar to all the 80's tuning companies in japan, AB Flug & Auto Garage TBK were all confirmed midnight members along with a couple others I'm forgetting
They also sell a weighted 19mm socket I paid 120$ for mine but I use it atleast once a week and you can zip it right off with a Milwaukee 1/2” impact like nothing personally it was well worth every penny and paid fur it’s self after the first engine build and it works on almost every Honda engine
Howzit going buddy 👍👍🤙🤙, cant seem to find a video with what rear wheel drive transmission conversion you went with this rear wheel drive conversion. What transmission did you go with if you don't mind me asking. Thanks again. 👍👍🤙🤙
Nice rebuild parts and more parts works! Lmao 😂 😮lmfao i think do a put in a a d16z6 darton sleves 1.6 sohc turbo sohc youu put multilamina junta amuanto lmao 1000hp sohc drean lavaropas dreams
This is like the worst k-swap k-series engine you can get. It has v-Tec on only one cam… weird oil filter spot. Exhaust manifold is weird too.. not sure if you knew that before purchasing. You here are like no after market parts for it cause no one mods it. Again not sure if you knew this. Either way good luck with the build 👍🏼
They make a specialty weighted socket for removing those crank bolts. Dealer tech for Honda/Acura, use one almost daily, zips those off in seconds.
Ya girl working up the muscles needed for “dishes “ shaking up that paint can 🤷🏻♂️🤣🤣🤣🤣
how much whp should this make? 450whp?!
Omg and the amount of silicone you used… there no need for that amount. Use Honda silicone or Toyota. Orrr get the grey stuff from the auto parts store. And again you don’t need so much… a little line that’s it. You don’t wan extra silicone pieces going into your motor and clogging oil passages.. either way Goodluck brither 👍🏼
For the crankshaft pulley bolt purchase a 19mm harmonic balancer weighted socket. It yanks the bolt free every time.
You build motors but never heard of a burned valve?
It's generally caused by valve clearance tightening up over time (or valves just being adjusted wrong so they are too tight) and the cam holding the valve slightly open, so the valve isn't able to be cooled by contact with the seat, this eventually melts the valve, burning it.
Hey man. Was a subscriber to your Robbie channel and the last I heard, you were leaving RUclips. Was sad to see you go as it's nice to see Canadian RUclipsrs that make decent content. I thought I'd look you up today to see if you were back at it and I was pleasantly surprised. Good to see you're back at it!
How come you don't post on your main channel any more?
For cleaning the head and block fill a bucket or some plastic container and buy industrial degreaser and put both parts or one at a time and in 30 minutes both will be super clean. No need for the drill brush. How to I know because my brother has a machine shop and works with heads and engine blocks every single day.
Brake clean evaporates after some time, that’s why many trust it as many degreasers will eat aluminum overtime even after rinsing to the microscope level. Which if you building any performance engine, you the aluminum to be in good structure composure.
Appreciate the build just came up on a K24A4 bare bones block and head looking to build , video is motivating!!!
ARP does make head bolts for both K20/K24 blocks. They are L19 ARP head stud bolts.
Why does everyone use red rtv on anything and everything? There's oil resistant (black) and high torque (grey) for a reason🤦♂️
you know when it comes to specialty tools instead of buying you can probably just go to like Advance Auto or O'Reilly and just rent one as it would be much cheaper especially when you probably won't use that tool very often
The reason for a burnt exhaust valve is bad valve seals which causes oil to drip on the valve and and the more carbon buildup on the valve will cause the valve to glow hot just like charcoal everytime that cylinder fires. i have purchased three hondas so far all with k24 engines and i can guarantee like 1000% that all of them had bad valve seals. on that specific cylinder that had a burnt exhaust valve.
Personally the 24z is not a bad engine buy any means but if im going to build a engine I want a better starting point it makes much more sense to get a junkyard K20a or k24a2 as both these engine can handle more power and rev higher even comes with more power stock k24a2 is the best k24 variant
Hmmm… all wheel drive kit? Would be interesting to see a motor like that in a Mini Cooper.
Bought a 2010 acura tsx as my first car. Then realised. It had a k series engine and absolutly love itm woulf love to modify it some more
I know everyone has to start somewhere but damn bro smh this guy didn’t even try researching how to do anything. I’m not no engine building expert but I’ve seen a lot of videos and learned a lot of stuff like lapping the valves is a must bro smh
Never ever ever….. use that disgusting orange silicone…. Again.. ever… oh man. Well fack it learning process for everyone.
$150 for a full k series timing kit, where??? my oem set was $400
@Bobby Ferreira Builds Just casually letting all the chemicals seep into the ground water cool bro...
I have a 2014 Honda Accord with a 2.4 liter engine. Is this the same engine you're working on?
You need to be seriously careful about using degreaser on aluminum parts that it is safe for use on aluminum.
certain degresers purple power included will etch into aluminum and pit the surface of the head....making them paperweights.
@10:30 “oh it’s just a dirty valve *makes caveman noises* “ this would of been my exact thought process 😂
That crank pulley came off way too easy. 😮 I had one K series crank bolt that broke 2 sockets and the special Honda tool. It took a 1" impact gun from a truck tire shop to break it loose! 😳
brass is a softer metal than aluminum, so it won’t scratch .
Steel is significantly stronger than aluminum, you WILL scratch the shit out of whatever soft metal you use steel on .
There is an extra heavy extra thick honda crank socket that works better than the reg impact plus crank holder. I think lisle makes one part number 77080
Love this! I'm planning to swap my genesis with K20 engine. This will be an awesome guide. 👍🏻
No red silicone is only used by Chrysler it's not very good. Ultra gray always
omg your going to granade your engine, replace that oil pump!!! if you put a oil pump from a k24 a in there you can red line at 9k and dont have to worry about that one exploding in your oil pan. build looks tough tho
Are you keeping that oil pump?
U only dud a head job bro...u did not change to forged rods n piston and oil pump right..by only doing the top overhaul how much power its making
Please clean those rusty bolts on your engine. It's not doing the build justice T_T
Theres a good video with info on the different K series heads that should have a good explantion to why you cant find performance parts for the Z head. Its just not a good head for extreme modifications because of the exhaust manifold is casted into the head casting and cannot be changed.
Really wish you used grey hondabond for your sealant. Orange be clashing IMHO
Willing to bet that the K24Z headstuds are the same ARP studs as the normal K20/K24 motors.
Can you message me on where I could get the turbo manifold , I can't find it on PRL any longer.
To bad Garage 16 does not have Honda CRV parts for first generation
You better be at the jdm fest this year, this beast is gonna compete against the century v12 subaru wrx hatchback
I ended up here because 3days ago i downloaded car mechanic simulator and now everything I want from life is to buy a car with a broken engine and diy repair it
I use a 1” impact gun a snap on or matco will break it right off Also need to make sure you have a good amount of air pressure. They suck lol
no cap, oven claener is the best when cleaning carbon build up on engines - comes right off and when your done just wipe it with brake cleaner