Modeling Tanks: Assembling Individual Tank Track Links
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- Опубликовано: 17 сен 2010
- A short video on how to assemble and mount individual plastic track links for model tanks. The concept shown in the vid is sound. My own stupid mistakes makes this look harder than it really is. But hey, you get to learn what not to do from my bungling. I screw up so you don't have to!
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I get so PISSED when the kit doesnr include the rubber tracks....thanx so much for this how to Video....
I hate individual links. They drive me crazy. Great video, by the way.
I HATE THEM WITH A PASSION!!!!!
jesus why do they make tracks so hard to do ?
Thank you for the video, I've been assembling Tiger VI and the tracks been driving me nuts. This is super helpful!
@TheRocketSilo You can learn just as much from my mistakes as you can when I do it right. If something I try doesn't work, I'm going to show it.
Finally! I thought it was me that just didn’t understand how these individual tracks could be accomplished. Thanks you!!
Nice tutorial! I have been really nervous about tackling indy link tracks for quite a while now, because I simply had no idea what to do. It still seems very tedious, but this clears things up greatly. Definitely gonna be consulting this when doing the tracks on my Trumpeter T62.
THANK YOU! Seeing your frustration makes me know I'm normal in hating these little individual links. I've stopped construction on a couple of kits because of these. Glad I'm not alone.
Thank you so much for this tutorial. Seeing you do it with track links that small gives me hope; the links on my upcoming model project seem somewhat larger (and so should be easier to work with.) Also loved your running commentary as you struggled to keep it clean; sounded like me!
Individual links for the track! Really! Buddy, you have serious patience. Fun video to watch...good job on keeping your cool...always a treat to see what you are doing...Jim.
Hey I like this way to build the tracks. Becomes fun actually. Like the idea of the pennies for weights to add the tracks to the wheels. Thanks for sharing and hope you add more Armour modeling.
@Arbornoctua Good thinking! I'll try that on the other side.
Thanks. This really helps. I did it all wrong on my IS-7. Your approach is much better
Thank you so much for this! I have to build this exact same tank model for my history class and it's ridiculous I didn't even think it was possible at first. I'll be able to get a decent mark with this technique!!!
Jamie Finlay luckyyy, you get to build a tank for history class. I would love doing one for homework
Great vid, great solution to the dullness of track assembly :')
I'm a veteran model builder, and I bought my first tank today, a VK4502 Vorte, 1:35 scale, I've worked out that it takes 120 links per side! Ah well, soldiering on!
Aw man, I wish I could post my indy track fail in this comment. I wish I had seen this earlier! Great tips, man. Now I wont be afraid to buy a model with indy tracks agian.
This is great. Now...I can't help but say this: the background music sounds like it came from a 70's-era independent film "for mature viewers."
Good tips with the tracks! Excellent and keep it up the good work and info.
An easier way to add sag....put the fenders on after assembling the tracks, then stuff paper towels or cotton buds between the tracks and fenders (between the return rollers) to add the sag, just another suggestion. Nice video and presentation, thanks for posting.
Good job. I use Model Master glue like you do, but I don't brush it on,I use a tooth pick and put some small drops in the hubs where they join. Then after I get them where I want and with a sag I hit each link with Tenax 7 from a small brush on each link to make them harden. The micro welding secures the links so well they don't fall apart. Years of trial and error, but I have it down pretty good now. Some model you have to have the fenders on,trying to shove the tracks on the upper wheels suck
Yeah, I do understand that. Friulmodel are great but as expensive as many kits. I definitely need to learn how to assemble decently the kind of tracks from your video (which will help a lot).
@dfuentes80 Just add more plastic cement. During painting and fitting and re-fitting you're bound to have a few breaks.
great vid! thanks a lot! i got to the point in my 1/35 panzer v panther model where i had to do the treads and i was thinking how am i gonna do these. your video helped me so much! thanks again.
I've solved this problem in a similar way to you. The caveat is I do them in lengths and shape them. Then I paint most of them off the running gear. That way they go on a painted model. I add the rest of what I need into the total length. Why don't you glue down the drive sprocket?
Then you risk getting cement on the paint, which will eat it, or fingerprints or scratches, or etc. What do you do if there are gaps to fill?
Thanks for the video u saved me a huge headache !
Thank you for the video I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to do these.
i have always loved yes LOVED the Flexible tracks that come in tamiya kits... it sucks that i cant use a lighter
I do my individual track links in sections, starting with the bottom. Depending on the tank I will either glue them in place then paint or leave them removable by not gluing on the drive wheels and / or making them in large sections I can glue together after painting.
Most of the tanks I do I glue them on then paint. By the time you add dirt, dust and grime along the rest of the bottom of the tank they blend in a lot. Of course a well washed tank is a different story.
Check out the Showcase T 80 vid a few vids after
Two big tips already noticed. The tape and the straight edge!. The slower cement. One bit of advice. Might you tape the straight edge down as well as the tape . I noticed it move. But really very helpful! Thank you so much.
Now looking forward to my next attempt.
WTG, I have always hated single track links, especially the plastic ones, the resin ones that fit together tightly and are "workable" are great and fruimodel metal ones are the best, though sometimes a bit fiddly to put together, loved the presentation.
This is very helpful! Thank you!!
Try doing this on a Tiger or Panther sometime!
Suggestion-try building the tracks in sections (i.e.Top and bottom runs) and also leave the idler and sprocket unglued(makes removal for painting easier).
And try to stick to stuff w/ loop track, or invest in Friuli or Modelkasten tracks
the reason i settle for the vinyl tracks !
Great video. Everyone hates to do this! Instead of pennies I use egg sinkers. They fit very nicely between the wheels.
What would you do if one of the pieces which is a hinge breaks? Would you use super glue to fix it or Testors cement? I need to do just that but I am scared it wont stick firmly for a piece that has movement. Thanks for your help.
I tried this, but the cement reacted to the tape as well, melting the tracks onto the tape. I was using regular masking/something tape (not the clear plastic one). Should I go with a different sort of tape or have I just added too much cement?
Testors dries very slow which allows you to bend the tracks before it dries completely.
Everytime I try bending the track it breaks :(
Is an Aya Shameimaru Figma cheaper than a big Renault FT complete with a person? Just asking.
The worst track i have come across is the mini art Grant tanks they are a nightmare, im still trying to figure it out .
Haha very informative and entertaining video!
...it did help. Thank you, sir...
Hi, have you tried bluetacking the pennys? That wouldn't "destroy" that immense amount of money and makes you flexible in doing weights ;-). Other than that this reminds me more on doing a puzzle, wow I need your patience in doing this kind of modeling, nice job.
How long did you wait for the glue to dry before taking the tape off of it?
It's done so they are easier to remove and attach.
Thanks, great trick!
Is it possible to assemble the tracks in two halves then add them after the wheels are painted?
+Ivan Ivanski Yes.
I tried that. Liquid cement doesn't always hold well enough. Tiny ones- Pz I, etc. are still a nightmare. Alan kits plastic doesn't seem to be receptive to testors.
mine are curving a lot, am i using too much glue? am i pressing too hard on one side?
I always tape down the straight edge as well to stop it slipping around.
How long do you let it dry?
Why do you have the cork on the ruler?
I assemble individual track links in sections on the running gear
I was doing an abrams tank that had individual link track...Long story short and many frustrating hours later I went bought a cheap abrams kit and used the rubber tracks LOL...
Do the links stay together better if you do this unpainted? When I do this, they just fall apart in my hands.
Paint would interfere with the bond of the plastic cement.
my rubber track snapped what do i do
Around 5minutes after the final one.
million dollar question??? did you have enough track links to finish other side?
why don't you keep the tape on the tracks while positioning it around the wheels?
It's so frustrating dealing with those kind of tracks that every time I build an afv, I just order the tracks from Friulmodel. That makes a build quite more expensive, but friulmodel tracks give zero problems. Plus they sag naturally and they look beautiful. And no sink marks or other flaws that are huge time wasters.
Tyrrhenus d'Etruria Always wanted to try them, but couldn't bring myself to buy tracks are were more expensive than the model. Ima cheapo.
why didn't you assemble and check one track before you pressed record ,, than showed the assembly of the second ?
Nice tip with the pennys
it is better to glue all the links once you have completed them. but they look good
can i do the same for Trumpeter tanks?
+Tuan Cuong Pham Yes.
damn where did they the idea of making tank tracks into small pieces
Thin is just a marketing term and has nothing to do with dry time.
For the sag, I recommend hitting walmart and buying a pack of 1/8 - 1/4 oz bullet weights for fishing. They would stand on yur tracks perfectly
Mine always breaks anyway in several spots.
Hilarious video with the multiple takes and the penny destroying comment :)
Thank you SO MUCH! I'm building a Tamiya Tiger I late-war era and was having trouble. I found that instead of masking tape, adhesive foam board works even better: www.foamforyou.com/neopreglue.jpg
I wouldn't have found this out if it wasn't for this video. (y)
+RandomCanEHdian same tank
You don't need anything fancy, just use plain, old scotch tape for the pennies =)
I found that the best way to deal with individual track links is to be sad, put the model away and never finish it, and then move on to a model that doesn't have them.
Just as advice and things like that why do you not paint the model before making it? As I paint before making!
sounds like the mythbusters guy
ㅇㅂㅇ!
Holy shit I'm not looking forward to this
omg lol