2004 Grand Cherokee Oil Pan And Rear Main Seal
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2019
- Watch along as I replace an oil pan that had rusted through, as well as the rear main oil seal on this 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The WJ series runs from 1999-2004 and they should all be similar when configured with the 4.0 straight six engine. There are lots of other videos on youtube on this subject (BleepinJeep has a nice one here • How To Fix a Rear Main... ) but I've tried to add some things to the subject.
The biggest struggle is removing the oil pan when access is limited. I found that I was able to leave the wheels on, let the axle drop, and simply remove the starter to get access. 
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![Jeep Cherokee - Rear Main Seal Replacement Procedure + Oil Pan Gasket ['87-'06 Jeep 4.0L]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A3t7UhrgIWA/mqdefault.jpg)
Big fan from your Bonneville content. Great stuff as always. Thanks for sharing.
Don't worry, there's more bike stuff coming!
Great job on the video! Thank you! I was debating as to dropping the exhaust or not.
Thank you!!!!! I did exactly what you did and was able to replace the oil pan!
That's great, I'm glad it helped!
Smart work. Two thumbs up !
Fantastic... I’m doing this rn in my shop and decided to just look at this on my poop break, and of course you can get it out without taking the exhaust off after I decided to cut the exhaust in half because of rust welded u-bolts
Never a shortage of rust on a Jeep!
Great video. Thank you!!!!
Great video.
Great vid. I tackled this job yesterday on an identical GC.
1: I disagree about the bolts by the exhaust not being that bad.
2: I tried not using the quick tabs and had to take the pan back down to ensure the gasket was in that channel over the rear bearing cap. Re-doing this would a nightmare. So I went full hack and used the tube of anaerobic sealer on the whole pan gasket. I had it, so wth.
Well, the bolts by the exhaust are not fun, it's true, but I think the trick is to position your body so that you have good line of sight with your eyes and can still get your socket in there. I think I used a 1/4 inch driver for that part because the thin extension allowed more room. With good line of sight you have a better chance of dropping the socket right on there. Those gasket alignment hold-backs are really brilliant and I would definitely recommend going out of your way to get that type. I guess having a second person helping to align one side would be a fall-back strategy.
Good job big help
Greath job brother!!!!! Thank you...!!!!
My pleasure!!
the old seal can be use with a wire flat either push it or tap it with a hammer or use a needle punch it in the pull it out like a hook use your hands it with come out if not punch it in again deep without breaking it then pull it out like a hook
Thank you
may need to tackle this soon so this video will be very helpful. As for the thing about 2000+ models having a different procedure (adding rtv) where would i need to put that ?
Not to worry, when you buy the gasket there will be a diagram included in the box. It's just a couple narrow areas which need a belt and suspenders approach.
Got it thank you appreciate your help! May have questions further going forward
I'm having pretty major issues with the 4 bolts near the exhaust and am still in the process of trying to get them out, so it's not something terribly simple. I'm also not sure how to remove that transmission line clip that appears to be attached to the 3rd bolt from the front of the oil pan on the driver's side. I wish this video actually showed or said something more about the removal of those items.
Sorry I missed your question earlier, you may be done by now. If you are referring to the pan bolts hidden behind the exhaust, they can best be removed with a long 1/4 inch extension or series of extensions. The trick is to orient your head and body under the car in a way that you can get a look at the bolt heads, and then insert the extension through the limited space by feel. I don't recall that line clip specifically, but it probably is a double nut.
So where exactly do you apply the RTV for the rear main? I see you said "where the ends meet", you mean just cover each touching surface with rtv?
Sorry for the delay in reply. So, the ends where the upper and lower seals meet is a potential weak spot. A little dab of silicone just at the end of the seals, not the whole cap surface, is enough to ensure no leaks.
torque spec for the oil pan, main seal bolts and girdle bolts? RTV for the oil pan gasket?
The cap bolts I mentioned at 11:55, 80 foot pounds. The girdle was about 35 foot pounds if memory serves. The oil pan gasket may need RTV at certain areas of the front and back, but the rubber ones don't get it all around. Check the instructions with the gasket.
So did you remove the exhaust pipe or sway bars to remove the oil pan?
Nope. I think the key was allowing the axle to drop, and leaving the wheels on added extra weight to bring the axle down farther. Being patient with the pan removal angle and removing the starter also helped.
Did you just replace the gasket on the oil pan or did you have to use rtv somewhere on top of replacing the gasket?
Both! The gasket is replaced and there is a small section which also gets silicone. There is a diagram included with the gasket to show you where the silicone goes.
@@tinderboxarts Great, thanks! I’ll have to check out the box the gasket came in.
Hi, how is it holding up? You video was very useful. I did mine yesterday using felpro oil pan gasket and rear main seal, but I still get the oil leaking at rear main area.
Wondering if you had to apply rtv for a full curved length of the oil pan gasket as shown in the bleepandjeep channel?
You are testing my memory now. I do believe there was a section on either end where silicone was suggested by the gasket-maker. I used the blue rubber gasket (Fel-pro, maybe?), which is quite good. No leaks to date.
mine has been leaking for ages haha doesn't seem to bad but i say that every time
It's one of those annoying problems that you'd rather not have to deal with, I know. I would have left it alone, honestly, except that the pan was actually rusted through and I had no choice.
Can anyone tell me why it is important to remember where the studs and bolts go exactly on the oil pan if there is nothing connected to the studs otherwise, then what does it matter? Same goes with the valve cover bolts and studs 🤷🏼♂️
Sometimes the bolt lengths are different, or even the bolt size. Otherwise it's mostly about any accessories which attach to the studs.
@@tinderboxarts Right so if nothing is attached to them it doesn't matter where they go in essentially right? Because I messed up and got my bolts and studs out of order on my valve cover and didn't put them all back in the same way and that was two months ago and haven't had a leak yet
Yeah, if the bolt fits you are fine.
Do I need to drob the transmission?
I did not need to drop the trans. You may need to scratch your head a little to find the right path to remove the oil pan, but but should be doable the way I showed in the video.
you missed the most difficult part..upper seal
I described that at 9:20. Tap one side with a punch and it slides around the journal coming out the opposite side. Actually not too difficult. I didn't film that part because I already had oil dripping on the camera!
Good job on the video. I usually NEVER comment, but it was very helpful.... BTW...get yourself some good tools. those cheap-ass harbor freight junk tools suck. LOL!
I have a menagerie of tools, including craftsmen tools going back to the early 80s! The HF hand tools are actually fine. I've had no issue with the sockets and the ratchets are no worse than anything else I find these days.
I agree that hf tools are not bad, but what I do know is when I break my 80 dollar icon 35 inch ratcheting breaker bar, it hurts my bank account more than my 140 dollar 35 inch unlimited lifetime warranty 35inch ratcheting breaker bar 👍🏽