😀Please *SUBSCRIBE* and *LIKE* . It *really helps* 😀To see the *TOP 10 Reasons your Heating System might be having problems watch my other video here:* ruclips.net/video/Xd-Og809TUo/видео.html
I used this video 3 years ago to free up my Taco impeller, and it did the trick ever since then. Unfortunately, now I am reviewing it again because it just got stuck again in the middle of a Sub-Zero freeze, while I am suffering from the flu. But... off I go again to see if I can get it freed up again! Wish me well!! (And I am VERY grateful for this video!!!)
Fortunately, my heating contractor put shut-off valves above and below the circulator pump so if it fails, it's as easy as shutting off those valves, removing the 4 screws, and replacing the cartridge and gasket. 15 minutes top! My burner man also leaves a new nozzle, filter, and a new pump cartridge (after replacing a defective one) as those are the things that seem to fail on weekends, nights, and other inopportune times. He took the time to show me exactly how to get my system going in an emergency. The bearing seized on my pump and we couldn't get it to turn. That cartridge costs from $65 to $185 US. Great video. Thank you for posting.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! One of many I used to trouble shoot my 70 year old boiler maintenance. I was able to keep her running and replaced the taco pump! I couldn't really find out what was wrong with the old, but it gave me the confidence to keep researching and replace myself! Cheers!!
My new pump stopped working yesterday. It's only 2 years and has been rarely used. After watching your video, I decide to flush the heating pipes by draining the dirty water (and air of course) out and let the flowing water clean the pump. Now the pump works again😀! I'll keep the new one I just ordered as an emergency backup.
@@hagans79 Thanks! It's good to know! Anyway, my way solved the issue - it's usually some rusting falling-off debris that stops the pump. Flush it away and no need to change the pump.😄
Thanks for your video! I just saved $1000 (A blood sucking company wanted that much to replace it)by following your instructions. I will order another pump as a backup later. God bless people like you!
@@diyheatingrepair8809 It sure is, get one done at night and it's even worse Everyone needs to make money but there is some much price gouging going on
I just had one lock up on a wood fired boiler and 2 whacks with a hammer in place later viola it started running again. If you hear a humming it's the electric motor trying to turn but can't. Couple reasonable whacks with a hammer and boom! Glad to see this video after the fact to better understand why it even happened. Thanks!
if the pump jammed, means rust and debree is between shaft and bearing, so cleaning is needed. If you just unblock it, it may still jam next year when not in use or when o water in system. To clean, at least for EU pumps, you can pull the rotor out, and then use some paper towels to clean space between shaft and lid (metal lid under propeller). You can put WD40 and move shaft up/down to get it in the bearing. It will become muddy, so clean it, apply wd40 again and repeat until you get it as clean as possible. This will fix it for a longer time. Also check your radiators and add a magnetic filter. Iron radiators will rust and it will all go to the boiler, seizing your pump. It's like cholesterol going to your heart, lol. Also avoid keeping boiler turned off too long, once a month a start would help keep pump working.
I happened across this while doing some research on taco circulator pumps. Great diy information. I appreciate the time and effort you put into the video.
I work in the spa industry and cleaning magnetic drive pump impellers is a regular part of maintenance. My Taco pump stopped working recently and I suspected it was a seized impeller. I'm hoping the impeller comes out easily as I prefer to remove the impellers, clean them, and clean inside the impeller housing. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video--I took my motor off and found that a piece of debris had jammed the impeller. 5 minutes later I was back up and running. The pump is part of a wood-fired boiler/radiant floor system to heat a 2000 sq. ft shop. I usually run the pump a few times over the summer and this was the first year I didn't do that. I have always added boiler anti-freeze and conditioner. The piece of debris has me concerned about the condition of the boiler itself. At any rate, watching your video saved me some time and some $.
In the UK we tend to have two isolation valves on the pump flanges, this means you can shut the water off to the pump and remove it without draining the entire heating system.
Ahhhhh. If ONLY they did that here. We see much more of it now but definitely not the norm for most homeowners here. Very sad since the valves don't cost much but they sure save the day, especially in the middle of the night with out cold winters here in New England. Great point and thank you for watching and best wishes to you. Please subscribe to my channel as well for new videos and keep the feedback coming.
Nice video, best is to use water conditioning additive in your system and still turn circulator for few seconds once a month. Have some that work for over twenty years.
Once a year must do this service before start heating period. European circulators like Wilo or Grundfos have a screw behind and can easily fix the problem! Nice video.
I really wish the US one had that screw. I have no idea why we don't have them here I have seen that and how helpful that can be solving so many issues. Maybe they just want us to throw them out every time! Great point.
Are you talking about a bleeder screw on Grundfos brand? Is there a screw to wrench on to actually turn the rotor/shaft? That works be cool. My system has Taco brand pumps on it now but when I replace I want to have bleeder outlets and a means to manually turn the rotor in case it is frozen. Thanks!
Silver Cymbal Cool. I didn’t mention that I had ran out to depot and purchased a new one before seeing your video. As a result of watching you, I was able to return that new pump and all is fine. Great job and thank you for educating us all.
@@DjSmoothNY Glad it saved you some cash! Please feel free to share my channel or video links with anyone that could benefit. I love to hear feedback like this. Thanks again and Happy New Year
If you install flanged shut off valves on either side of pump you don't need to drain system. I recommend them. Also if you get the type with installed check valve then pull the check from the pump- only want one check valve of course.
Thanks for making this video, great info. One of the heating zones in my house isn't working. It's winter 2 days trying to get a plumber and no call backs. So it looks like I have to be the HVAC guy this week. : )
That is always tough. Watch my other troubleshooting one, it might help but sometimes only a pro can solve a situation. ruclips.net/video/Xd-Og809TUo/видео.html I hope things get back to normal for you soon. Let me know how it works out.
Well if the installer's did you a favour they would have put shut off on both sides of the circulating pump to make it easier to change out in the future.
OK, so I replaced my Taco 0010-F2. Your videos helped a lot. First off, I can't believe how simple it is...sort of. In theory it is as simple as drain, disconnect wires, unbolt, replace. Simple right? Well, I had some hiccups. I drained the tank until it trickled but when I removed the old circulator I flooded my basement. Apparently I didn't drain the circuits. Who knew?!? LOL. Funny now, not so funny when the pipe is spewing water like a bathtub faucet! Secondly, I had probably three generations of gaskets welded to the pipes. No lie, two O-ring layers sandwiching a diamond one. I had to ruin a wood chisel to chip those off! After that it was simple. A comment: I looked into replacing just the cartridge as you suggest and found that the cost was actually a few dollars more than the whole unit. That is a BIG disappointment, Taco. I replaced the whole unit as it carries a guarantee for three years. A question: I replaced the unit because every so often the darn circulator buzzed like a cicada. No gravel sound just an annoying buzz that, when it cranked up, reverberated throughout the house, loudly. I would go and give the unit a few love taps with a hammer and it would stop - but only for about 24 hours. It was intermittent. So, of course I take the old unit out and it spins fine. It seems great. I expected to find a broken impeller but, nothing. My question to you is...Do you ever find a unit that buzzes but spins freely? For such a simple pump the darn things are EXPENSIVE!!! If the old one is fine I'd like to sell it on Ebay ( I can't take the new one back now that it's been installed!) Thanks for your response below!
Hi glad that my video helped. I agree that they don't make the circulator replacement very economical. The main reason people will just do the cartridge is if they can't get the unit out and they can just swap the inside. Most plumbers only swap the pump our directly as you did. Yes I have seen noisy pumps many times when they spin freely and work. It can be small debris or motors slowly going bad. I will replace them if they make noise like that. I don't want to have a failure in the middle of the night. You can sell your old one on ebay I see the on there in very used condition still get some money. You could also keep it as an emergency backup also. Glad you learned something new and probably saved a $400 installation price too. Best of luck with your project
It was funny reading your post. There is nothing as exciting as when water starts pouring out of your system that you thought it was drained. Sometimes the load noise you hear is due to air trapped in the pump. If it keep being loud. replace it, it's under warranty. Here are a few more random tips. 1 - Check to make sure you have no glycol in the system. (you will want to drain that into a bucket and pump it back into the system) otherwise you will affect the freeze point of your system. 2 - Make sure the system is not too hot. ( if you start removing screws it could start leaking and you may not be able to retighten the screws due to hot fluid burns) 3 - turn off the makeup water to your system 4 - make sure you have a spare gasket before pulling it apart. turn off all power. boiler power and control power. remove air from all heating loops.
Great video... going to try this as soon as I'm home today - as one zone is not heating even though all other zones working. However, I have valves on either side of the circulator pump in question... can I just turn those off rather than draining the entire boiler? Or am I missing another step or concern by not draining the boiler? Thanks!
I have say 170 degrees (according to my temp gauge). On each side of the pump top and bottom are both very hot to touch, is that a sign that the pump is working fine ? Pump is very quiet and I can't really tell by feeling the pump. Tenant keeps smart thermostat at 77-79 degrees, it's fairly warm in the house but feels more like 72 inside. Stat is set for 3 boiler heating cycles per hour. Aquastat at about 190 max.
I recommend touching the pipes further away from the pump to check if it's moving fluid. It's not uncommon for the pump to be really hot and conducting the heat into the first few feet before and after it.
Bobby Edwards I replaced my Watts 500800 pump with a new one and stumbled across a video on RUclips saying that the pump can be repaired. I viewed the video and the pump repaired was a different one but was informed that they all work the same. The old replaced pump was leaking water over the top of the hot water heater. I took it apart and it wasn't stuck or impaired and when plugged in the pump worked like a charm. What made it leak, and how can that be diagnosed and fixed?
In this video, do you need to take the pump off the heating system? It seems that you can do all these repairs with the pump mounted on the system. Or am I missing something? Thank you for the demo!
a grundfos pump would be take a cap screw on the back of the pump off. insert screwdriver into slot of pump shaft and turn counter clockwise. put cap back on
I woke up this morning, 3 of my 4 zones...no heat...boiler was on and sending hot water to my 4th zone and my hot water heater...3of my cycles were warm not hot...air handlers were able to be turned on...so I took a hammer and gently tapped the cyclers...and presto...all 3 started to work. I’m wondering how long before I get them changed out?
my house struggled to maintain 2 degrees below the set point last nite (about 10 below) and the Taco recirculator never shut off it ran all night, and had a sort of cavitation sound at times like it was running at different speeds. Not sure what to think of that.
Out of curiosity if you have say 4 zones and 1 zone does not have water at a bleed valve, is it possible there is no water because the circulator pump locked up? or would it be more likely the bleed valve is not working? (its -26 ) and I am not taking the boiler offline or changing water if I can help it and everything else seems fine and working?
Yes agreed, this is perfect though if it's the middle of the night or you don;t have heat and need it back on now. This works very well for that and buys you time to go back and replace it later though I know sometimes this can hold for years.
ive got two zones and for some reason the pumps to the second zone (upstairs) keep seizing like this. at first we were just replacing them but the last one seized after just a few months. what could be causing this? and why would it only impact the one pump??
Sometimes the capacitor just fails and the pump will draw higher amps than rating. Thought they did not make the replacement of the capacitor easy but you may cut it out and install another one inside the electrical box or outside in a junction box nearby
Great information. Do you have an videos on Grundfos pumps? I think i have a bad check valve on mine but haven't taken apart yet and really dont know how to tell if they are bad.
If you pull the pump out, you can depress the check valve with a small screwdriver. You just want to make sure it opens and closes smoothly. Be careful the check vales are made of plastic.
so my circ pump seems to be turning on and off in 10 sec intervals. Tub is not getting to desired temp either. Took circ pump out and apart and tested (like in your video) and it spins freely. Pump goin on intermittently a sign of bad pump?
@t question is this will the newer rubber old ring work with the old flange thats on my boiler or do I need to install a regular flange gasket? Question 2# Whats the prefer nipple to connect to the flange to the boiler brass or galvanize pipe?
The newer gaskets are supposed to work with the original flanges. Some plumbers still use the larger "pink" gaskets though. For your second question black iron or galvanized pipe is still widely used for boiler piping.
I have never installed galvanized piping on a heating system. Galvanized piping is used in plumbing not heating. As far as I know glycol will destroy galvanized piping. Brass works too but it's more expensive. Hope it helps in the future.
Yes it is possible to try to wash out the cartridge once you have it out. This will usually work for a while or maybe a long time but I would use it as a short term fix but if you have no heat it’s worth it. Best wishes to you and thanks for watching.
The Taco 3 speed pump had a lot of failures based on what I experienced and on forums I was on. The noise is usually a sign of either debris inside or that it's likely going to fail soon. The fact it works on one speed could be that the switch is bad of that the parts that control the swithc have gone bad. The best move for this one is to replace the whole unit. If you watch my other video on my channel you will see I did the swap you are describing. I went from a 3 speed to a brand new pump. I hope that is helpful.
My motor spins when taken out but only hums when powered up. I bought a new armature cartage but cant pull the old cartage out. The gasket system between the water inlets and the pump is a poor design and reinstalling it is a bear.
Sorry to hear that. At times I have been able to use a heavy putty knife or thin flat head screwdriver to pry the cartridge from the housing. It could be too corroded but it's worth a try. Please be sure the power is off as well for your safety. Best of luck with the repair and getting your system back up and running.
a common fix before you take the motor cover off, is to give it a gentle tap or two with a mallet, often it frees up the pump, and no need to drain the system
I have a Grunfos Auto PM which was installed by my builder during our new house build. It is 1 year old and last night we had a heavy rain storm with a lot of lightning. The next day there was no instant hot water. I tried unplugging the Grunfos for a few minutes thinking it would reset, no luck. Then I gave it a few light taps with a hammer, now its working.
Unfortunately no, that would sound like the pump seal may be compromised. The best bet for that is to replace the pump since the seal housing is usually too corrode to replace just the seal. If you check out my plumbing and heating section of my channel I did a full pump replacement too that may be helpful.
If the circulator is well above the boiler and water lines. Mine are in a basement floor below the boiler so I don’t think I would need to drain the boiler
If the water is inside the motor housing it sounds like the seal is bad and a new cartridge and oring may fix it. If you can at this point you may want to replace the entire circulator, housing and all. I have a video for that also. ruclips.net/video/flpbqJu2sT8/видео.html Either way I hope this helps. Thank you for watching and let me know how things turn out.
Wish I saw this sooner...:-( A new pump set us back almost $900. and they took the old one...:-( Now is only a few months later and the unit won't start...:-( It turns on, just won't light...:-( I knew something was wrong when it started kicking on and off continously...but now won't cone on at all. I saw another video, trouble shooting, showing a dirty flame sensor. I hope I can find it...;-)
$900? I went down to Home Depot and spent $115 on new Taco pump. I've seen ridiculous part mark ups before from HVAC service. I had my old AC crap out. The repair person quoted $200 for part and $200 labor. While he installed it I looked up the part number that I took from box. $20 from on line supplier and pretty easy to replace. .
Why do homeowners not understand how much it costs to run a business? People think that all the job entails is parts and labor. People don’t understand that there’s business insurance, vehicles, employees, health insurance, accounting, IT, etc etc etc. btw, i’m a plumber.
That is usually debris inside that might be cleanable or the motor could be failing. Either way you may want to consider replacing it (watch my other video) or having someone look at it for for you.
I have this circulator pump on my water heater. And of late I’m having a little issue getting hot water out from the faucet. It took a minute or to have hot water running out of my faucet. I also noticed that when I place my hand over the motor of the circulator pump it’s really hot. Anyone have any idea or tips please shared.
If this pump is on a hot water line it is normal for the pump to be the same temperature as the hot water. Try to feel down the pipe after the pump to see if the heat keeps going. If it is cold than you pump might be on but its not moving water. Its very common for older pumps to stick or seize but try the test above first and see what you get. Thank you for watching and best wishes to you.
This is NOT a 'fix'. When a bearing is shot then its shot. A circ may not be exactly cheap, but dealing with burst pipes in the dead of winter is going to cost a while hell of a lot more. And motor cartridge cost more than entire unit so don't waste time trying to service it. REPLACE!
Other than for purpose of draining crap out of a water tank.....why drain the tank?. The vid says to do this, it should just say to "relieve pressure", which really is all that is needed. Saying to drain the tank also implies a total drain....also not necessary., maybe only a bit if at all. Close the cold water supply valve to the tank.... open some faucets in your home to drain, ....and you shouldn't have to drain 30-50 gals of your tank.
If you are doing this in your own home, it may be worth it, but as a business owner, you’re going to want to replace that pump and save yourself a call back and wasted time and money. Replace the pump.
@@SilverCymbal thank you! I had a roth tank installed and since then no hot water is available. Only cold water. The guy said it's cause the oil level is too low. In roth tanks the oil line is at the top of the tank and then there is a pipe going all the way down to about 1 inch from the bottom of the tank. So the burner has to pull the oil against gravity. I know that the oil is more than one inch above the bottom because there is about 25 to 30 gallon in the tank. Which means it is about 6 inches high in the tank. I have ordered more oil, so we'll se if it fixes the problem. I didnt want to order more oil until the insprctiom was done. The light that was flashing on my system 2000 imdicated that there was a "ciculation" issue or "burner lockout". The burner is locked out, but when i reset it, it runs for a few seconds and then goes back to being "locked out". I'm assuming it just isnt being able to pull the oil for whatever reason. Maybe therr is air in the line.
@@SilverCymbal So the problem was that there was air in the line. Guess they didn't bleed the line after the changeover. I learned how to do it on youtube so did it myself. Half a weekend gone over this but I learned something new and will know for the future.
@@boreduser12 Your system should runn whether or not it has 20 gallons of oil or 275. That doesn't sound run. Either the burner needs to be bled or the piping on the Roth needs to be checked out. I would call Roth and see how happy they are about what he told you, they should get you some help,
@@SilverCymbal thanks for your help. I have another question, hopefully you dont mind me asking. An oil company came and filled up my tank and their truck gauge (or whatever method they use) said it is full. However, when i checked my new oil tank in the basement, the reading on that said 7/8th full. Is that a problem on their end or mine? Thanks again.
You didn't fix anything... nothing was broken. More like maintenanced. How bout you take the whole motor apart and show people what's inside and maybe how to replace a bearing.
These have sealed bearings and windings and can't be serviced further than I showed. Stuck rotors are common on these especially if the lines are loaded with metallic particles like mine was. This is handy if you are in a jam with a frozen motor in the middle of the night and can get you heat again. Thank you for the comment and watching.
😀Please *SUBSCRIBE* and *LIKE* . It *really helps* 😀To see the *TOP 10 Reasons your Heating System might be having problems watch my other video here:* ruclips.net/video/Xd-Og809TUo/видео.html
Couldn’t you just shut the gate valves before and after the pump instead of draining the whole system?
I used this video 3 years ago to free up my Taco impeller, and it did the trick ever since then. Unfortunately, now I am reviewing it again because it just got stuck again in the middle of a Sub-Zero freeze, while I am suffering from the flu. But... off I go again to see if I can get it freed up again! Wish me well!! (And I am VERY grateful for this video!!!)
Fortunately, my heating contractor put shut-off valves above and below the circulator pump so if it fails, it's as easy as shutting off those valves, removing the 4 screws, and replacing the cartridge and gasket. 15 minutes top! My burner man also leaves a new nozzle, filter, and a new pump cartridge (after replacing a defective one) as those are the things that seem to fail on weekends, nights, and other inopportune times. He took the time to show me exactly how to get my system going in an emergency. The bearing seized on my pump and we couldn't get it to turn. That cartridge costs from $65 to $185 US.
Great video. Thank you for posting.
Can't beat being prepared. I always install isolation flanges before and after pump too! It's makes repairs so quick!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video! One of many I used to trouble shoot my 70 year old boiler maintenance. I was able to keep her running and replaced the taco pump! I couldn't really find out what was wrong with the old, but it gave me the confidence to keep researching and replace myself! Cheers!!
My new pump stopped working yesterday. It's only 2 years and has been rarely used. After watching your video, I decide to flush the heating pipes by draining the dirty water (and air of course) out and let the flowing water clean the pump. Now the pump works again😀! I'll keep the new one I just ordered as an emergency backup.
So glad it helped and got you back up and running thanks for letting me know
they have a 3 yr warranty.
@@hagans79 Thanks! It's good to know! Anyway, my way solved the issue - it's usually some rusting falling-off debris that stops the pump. Flush it away and no need to change the pump.😄
Thanks for your video! I just saved $1000 (A blood sucking company wanted that much to replace it)by following your instructions. I will order another pump as a backup later. God bless people like you!
So glad it helped! Thank you for letting me know, please feel free to link the video to anyone that you think could benefit from it. Thanks again
It's crazy to hear what some companies charge to replace inexpensive pumps.
@@diyheatingrepair8809 It sure is, get one done at night and it's even worse Everyone needs to make money but there is some much price gouging going on
I just had one lock up on a wood fired boiler and 2 whacks with a hammer in place later viola it started running again. If you hear a humming it's the electric motor trying to turn but can't. Couple reasonable whacks with a hammer and boom! Glad to see this video after the fact to better understand why it even happened. Thanks!
I just did the same thing with a wrench.
Good ole Fonzi wack! 😂
if the pump jammed, means rust and debree is between shaft and bearing, so cleaning is needed. If you just unblock it, it may still jam next year when not in use or when o water in system. To clean, at least for EU pumps, you can pull the rotor out, and then use some paper towels to clean space between shaft and lid (metal lid under propeller). You can put WD40 and move shaft up/down to get it in the bearing. It will become muddy, so clean it, apply wd40 again and repeat until you get it as clean as possible. This will fix it for a longer time. Also check your radiators and add a magnetic filter. Iron radiators will rust and it will all go to the boiler, seizing your pump. It's like cholesterol going to your heart, lol.
Also avoid keeping boiler turned off too long, once a month a start would help keep pump working.
I happened across this while doing some research on taco circulator pumps. Great diy information. I appreciate the time and effort you put into the video.
Thank you very much, I am glad this was helpful. Best wishes to you.
do i need a check valve in the taco pump
I work in the spa industry and cleaning magnetic drive pump impellers is a regular part of maintenance. My Taco pump stopped working recently and I suspected it was a seized impeller. I'm hoping the impeller comes out easily as I prefer to remove the impellers, clean them, and clean inside the impeller housing. Thanks for sharing!
Your video worked for me... You saved the day and me a lot of money. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Thanks for the video--I took my motor off and found that a piece of debris had jammed the impeller. 5 minutes later I was back up and running. The pump is part of a wood-fired boiler/radiant floor system to heat a 2000 sq. ft shop. I usually run the pump a few times over the summer and this was the first year I didn't do that. I have always added boiler anti-freeze and conditioner. The piece of debris has me concerned about the condition of the boiler itself. At any rate, watching your video saved me some time and some $.
In the UK we tend to have two isolation valves on the pump flanges, this means you can shut the water off to the pump and remove it without draining the entire heating system.
Ahhhhh. If ONLY they did that here. We see much more of it now but definitely not the norm for most homeowners here. Very sad since the valves don't cost much but they sure save the day, especially in the middle of the night with out cold winters here in New England. Great point and thank you for watching and best wishes to you. Please subscribe to my channel as well for new videos and keep the feedback coming.
In the UK? Most people around the world with modern plumbing do....
Yeah 2 valves that always leak after you operate them for the first & last time
@@johnsteed265 same here where I work at, easier that way. 👍
Thank you so much sir you fixed our 8 year problem!!!!
So glad it helped.
I hope your pump was not stuck for 8 years.
You are kidding rite lol go and get yourself a Bell & Gossett you'll never have any problems later
Nice video, best is to use water conditioning additive in your system and still turn circulator for few seconds once a month. Have some that work for over twenty years.
What do you recommend? Water conditioner? Thx
Once a year must do this service before start heating period. European circulators like Wilo or Grundfos have a screw behind and can easily fix the problem! Nice video.
I really wish the US one had that screw. I have no idea why we don't have them here I have seen that and how helpful that can be solving so many issues. Maybe they just want us to throw them out every time! Great point.
Are you talking about a bleeder screw on Grundfos brand? Is there a screw to wrench on to actually turn the rotor/shaft? That works be cool.
My system has Taco brand pumps on it now but when I replace I want to have bleeder outlets and a means to manually turn the rotor in case it is frozen. Thanks!
This method worked for me. I dismantled it and sure enough the cartridge was stuck. Gave it a push and it freed up and is working just fine....
Glad it helped! I had one that I fixed like this and planned to replace and 5 years later, still going strong!
Silver Cymbal Cool. I didn’t mention that I had ran out to depot and purchased a new one before seeing your video. As a result of watching you, I was able to return that new pump and all is fine. Great job and thank you for educating us all.
@@DjSmoothNY Glad it saved you some cash! Please feel free to share my channel or video links with anyone that could benefit. I love to hear feedback like this. Thanks again and Happy New Year
If you install flanged shut off valves on either side of pump you don't need to drain system. I recommend them. Also if you get the type with installed check valve then pull the check from the pump- only want one check valve of course.
Thanks for making this video, great info. One of the heating zones in my house isn't working. It's winter 2 days trying to get a plumber and no call backs. So it looks like I have to be the HVAC guy this week. : )
That is always tough. Watch my other troubleshooting one, it might help but sometimes only a pro can solve a situation. ruclips.net/video/Xd-Og809TUo/видео.html I hope things get back to normal for you soon. Let me know how it works out.
Plumbers are the same the world over, they don’t want small jobs. I do as much as I can myself thanks to videos like this.
Well if the installer's did you a favour they would have put shut off on both sides of the circulating pump to make it easier to change out in the future.
OK, so I replaced my Taco 0010-F2. Your videos helped a lot. First off, I can't believe how simple it is...sort of. In theory it is as simple as drain, disconnect wires, unbolt, replace. Simple right? Well, I had some hiccups. I drained the tank until it trickled but when I removed the old circulator I flooded my basement. Apparently I didn't drain the circuits. Who knew?!? LOL. Funny now, not so funny when the pipe is spewing water like a bathtub faucet! Secondly, I had probably three generations of gaskets welded to the pipes. No lie, two O-ring layers sandwiching a diamond one. I had to ruin a wood chisel to chip those off! After that it was simple.
A comment: I looked into replacing just the cartridge as you suggest and found that the cost was actually a few dollars more than the whole unit. That is a BIG disappointment, Taco. I replaced the whole unit as it carries a guarantee for three years.
A question: I replaced the unit because every so often the darn circulator buzzed like a cicada. No gravel sound just an annoying buzz that, when it cranked up, reverberated throughout the house, loudly. I would go and give the unit a few love taps with a hammer and it would stop - but only for about 24 hours. It was intermittent. So, of course I take the old unit out and it spins fine. It seems great. I expected to find a broken impeller but, nothing. My question to you is...Do you ever find a unit that buzzes but spins freely? For such a simple pump the darn things are EXPENSIVE!!! If the old one is fine I'd like to sell it on Ebay ( I can't take the new one back now that it's been installed!) Thanks for your response below!
Hi glad that my video helped. I agree that they don't make the circulator replacement very economical. The main reason people will just do the cartridge is if they can't get the unit out and they can just swap the inside. Most plumbers only swap the pump our directly as you did. Yes I have seen noisy pumps many times when they spin freely and work. It can be small debris or motors slowly going bad. I will replace them if they make noise like that. I don't want to have a failure in the middle of the night. You can sell your old one on ebay I see the on there in very used condition still get some money. You could also keep it as an emergency backup also. Glad you learned something new and probably saved a $400 installation price too. Best of luck with your project
Thanks
It was funny reading your post. There is nothing as exciting as when water starts pouring out of your system that you thought it was drained. Sometimes the load noise you hear is due to air trapped in the pump. If it keep being loud. replace it, it's under warranty.
Here are a few more random tips.
1 - Check to make sure you have no glycol in the system. (you will want to drain that into a bucket and pump it back into the system) otherwise you will affect the freeze point of your system.
2 - Make sure the system is not too hot. ( if you start removing screws it could start leaking and you may not be able to retighten the screws due to hot fluid burns)
3 - turn off the makeup water to your system
4 - make sure you have a spare gasket before pulling it apart.
turn off all power. boiler power and control power.
remove air from all heating loops.
@@diyheatingrepair8809 Great info - I'll check out your channel. Is it also possible a bearing or bushing in the pump is wearing out?
Great video... going to try this as soon as I'm home today - as one zone is not heating even though all other zones working. However, I have valves on either side of the circulator pump in question... can I just turn those off rather than draining the entire boiler? Or am I missing another step or concern by not draining the boiler? Thanks!
Definitely yes, same as draining the water
Great video! Question. What if the motor housing is very hot but hot water is still being delivered if set on "continuous"? Is this normal?
I have say 170 degrees (according to my temp gauge). On each side of the pump top and bottom are both very hot to touch, is that a sign that the pump is working fine ? Pump is very quiet and I can't really tell by feeling the pump. Tenant keeps smart thermostat at 77-79 degrees, it's fairly warm in the house but feels more like 72 inside. Stat is set for 3 boiler heating cycles per hour. Aquastat at about 190 max.
I recommend touching the pipes further away from the pump to check if it's moving fluid. It's not uncommon for the pump to be really hot and conducting the heat into the first few feet before and after it.
Bobby Edwards
I replaced my Watts 500800 pump with a new one and stumbled across a video on RUclips saying that the pump can be repaired. I viewed the video and the pump repaired was a different one but was informed that they all work the same. The old replaced pump was leaking water over the top of the hot water heater. I took it apart and it wasn't stuck or impaired and when plugged in the pump worked like a charm. What made it leak, and how can that be diagnosed and fixed?
Get your self of T Handel Allen screw wrenches, makes life easy
In this video, do you need to take the pump off the heating system? It seems that you can do all these repairs with the pump mounted on the system. Or am I missing something? Thank you for the demo!
a grundfos pump would be take a cap screw on the back of the pump off. insert screwdriver into slot of pump shaft and turn counter clockwise. put cap back on
This is really good content. Good stuff man
Great job on your information 🙂
Great info, Zack. Thanks!
I woke up this morning, 3 of my 4 zones...no heat...boiler was on and sending hot water to my 4th zone and my hot water heater...3of my cycles were warm not hot...air handlers were able to be turned on...so I took a hammer and gently tapped the cyclers...and presto...all 3 started to work. I’m wondering how long before I get them changed out?
Great explanation thxs
my house struggled to maintain 2 degrees below the set point last nite (about 10 below) and the Taco recirculator never shut off it ran all night, and had a sort of cavitation sound at times like it was running at different speeds. Not sure what to think of that.
Is there a sound that's supposed to make when it's pumping water or is it just a basic water flow sound?
living thermogenic water circulator is the light supposed to blinking?
Out of curiosity if you have say 4 zones and 1 zone does not have water at a bleed valve, is it possible there is no water because the circulator pump locked up? or would it be more likely the bleed valve is not working? (its -26 ) and I am not taking the boiler offline or changing water if I can help it and everything else seems fine and working?
If you get that far, all those steps, wouldn't it make sense to replace the cartridge? Or even the whole circulator? Thx
Yes agreed, this is perfect though if it's the middle of the night or you don;t have heat and need it back on now. This works very well for that and buys you time to go back and replace it later though I know sometimes this can hold for years.
ive got two zones and for some reason the pumps to the second zone (upstairs) keep seizing like this. at first we were just replacing them but the last one seized after just a few months. what could be causing this? and why would it only impact the one pump??
Sometimes the capacitor just fails and the pump will draw higher amps than rating. Thought they did not make the replacement of the capacitor easy but you may cut it out and install another one inside the electrical box or outside in a junction box nearby
Great information. Do you have an videos on Grundfos pumps? I think i have a bad check valve on mine but haven't taken apart yet and really dont know how to tell if they are bad.
If you pull the pump out, you can depress the check valve with a small screwdriver. You just want to make sure it opens and closes smoothly. Be careful the check vales are made of plastic.
Great info, explained very well. Thank you, just sub'd.
If the pump fails does it "fail open" to at least allow circulation via conventional means?
What polymers are the internal seals? Is the seal EPDM? Is the impeller PTFE? Are the flange seals EPDM? thanks
Can u use rtv for small leak
Put a Webstone isolator valve before n after the pump tp avoid the need to drain the furnace
You can try tapping the side with a hammer sometimes it's just a bit of debris in the system.
This was very helpful. Thanks
Thank you, glad you liked it
Do you know what is " Auxiliary coolant pump - short circuit to ground" error on bmw f10
so my circ pump seems to be turning on and off in 10 sec intervals. Tub is not getting to desired temp either. Took circ pump out and apart and tested (like in your video) and it spins freely. Pump goin on intermittently a sign of bad pump?
@t question is this will the newer rubber old ring work with the old flange thats on my boiler or do I need to install a regular flange gasket? Question 2# Whats the prefer nipple to connect to the flange to the boiler brass or galvanize pipe?
The newer gaskets are supposed to work with the original flanges. Some plumbers still use the larger "pink" gaskets though. For your second question black iron or galvanized pipe is still widely used for boiler piping.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks for the info.
I have never installed galvanized piping on a heating system. Galvanized piping is used in plumbing not heating. As far as I know glycol will destroy galvanized piping. Brass works too but it's more expensive. Hope it helps in the future.
Can you clean the metal bits out?
Yes it is possible to try to wash out the cartridge once you have it out. This will usually work for a while or maybe a long time but I would use it as a short term fix but if you have no heat it’s worth it. Best wishes to you and thanks for watching.
If I have shut off valves on each side of the pump …. All I have to do is shut electric and do what you said, not drain boiler….. right?
I have a brand new pump taco 007e and it starts out with a green light.Then it is orange now it is off completely.... help
My circulating pump is working only on 3speed not on 1st or 2nd and it is making a noice like barrely is circulating the water.help
The Taco 3 speed pump had a lot of failures based on what I experienced and on forums I was on. The noise is usually a sign of either debris inside or that it's likely going to fail soon. The fact it works on one speed could be that the switch is bad of that the parts that control the swithc have gone bad. The best move for this one is to replace the whole unit. If you watch my other video on my channel you will see I did the swap you are describing. I went from a 3 speed to a brand new pump. I hope that is helpful.
Good video
Thank you.
My motor spins when taken out but only hums when powered up. I bought a new armature cartage but cant pull the old cartage out. The gasket system between the water inlets and the pump is a poor design and reinstalling it is a bear.
Sorry to hear that. At times I have been able to use a heavy putty knife or thin flat head screwdriver to pry the cartridge from the housing. It could be too corroded but it's worth a try. Please be sure the power is off as well for your safety. Best of luck with the repair and getting your system back up and running.
Cool.
a common fix before you take the motor cover off, is to give it a gentle tap or two with a mallet, often it frees up the pump, and no need to drain the system
gonna try this!
I have a Grunfos Auto PM which was installed by my builder during our new house build. It is 1 year old and last night we had a heavy rain storm with a lot of lightning. The next day there was no instant hot water. I tried unplugging the Grunfos for a few minutes thinking it would reset, no luck. Then I gave it a few light taps with a hammer, now its working.
I need to try that. I had a pool pump that I got working twice like that. Good idea thx
YES, great tip! Especially if your system has been turned off during the summer and you're getting ready to put it back into service.
How do you bleed the air from the system?
Circulator pump is on top of water tank . Very hot to touch, no hot water . Is pump bad?
So is water leakage a symptom of this jammed pump scenario?
Unfortunately no, that would sound like the pump seal may be compromised. The best bet for that is to replace the pump since the seal housing is usually too corrode to replace just the seal. If you check out my plumbing and heating section of my channel I did a full pump replacement too that may be helpful.
If you put a new pump on, also fit a magnetic particle filter to the system. Stop it happening again.
If the circulator is well above the boiler and water lines. Mine are in a basement floor below the boiler so I don’t think I would need to drain the boiler
My circulator pump vibrates really hard, so I assume the issue is the circulating pump?
Make sure no air in pump.....
I took my cartridge out and there is water trapped inside ... is this normal or do I have a bad seal??
If the water is inside the motor housing it sounds like the seal is bad and a new cartridge and oring may fix it. If you can at this point you may want to replace the entire circulator, housing and all. I have a video for that also. ruclips.net/video/flpbqJu2sT8/видео.html Either way I hope this helps. Thank you for watching and let me know how things turn out.
Wish I saw this sooner...:-( A new pump set us back almost $900. and they took the old one...:-(
Now is only a few months later and the unit won't start...:-( It turns on, just won't light...:-( I knew something was wrong when it started kicking on and off continously...but now won't cone on at all. I saw another video, trouble shooting, showing a dirty flame sensor. I hope I can find it...;-)
Sorry to hear that, some of the repair costs are over the top now. If it happens again at least you may have some more info now.
$900? I went down to Home Depot and spent $115 on new Taco pump. I've seen ridiculous part mark ups before from HVAC service. I had my old AC crap out. The repair person quoted $200 for part and $200 labor. While he installed it I looked up the part number that I took from box. $20 from on line supplier and pretty easy to replace. .
Why do homeowners not understand how much it costs to run a business? People think that all the job entails is parts and labor. People don’t understand that there’s business insurance, vehicles, employees, health insurance, accounting, IT, etc etc etc. btw, i’m a plumber.
I have a grun foes circulator model number UPS 15 dish 58FC why is it whistling
Grundfos circulator why is it whistling
That is usually debris inside that might be cleanable or the motor could be failing. Either way you may want to consider replacing it (watch my other video) or having someone look at it for for you.
I have this circulator pump on my water heater. And of late I’m having a little issue getting hot water out from the faucet. It took a minute or to have hot water running out of my faucet. I also noticed that when I place my hand over the motor of the circulator pump it’s really hot. Anyone have any idea or tips please shared.
If this pump is on a hot water line it is normal for the pump to be the same temperature as the hot water. Try to feel down the pipe after the pump to see if the heat keeps going. If it is cold than you pump might be on but its not moving water. Its very common for older pumps to stick or seize but try the test above first and see what you get. Thank you for watching and best wishes to you.
Run 4th circle liter model number UPS 1558FC it's not that old complements and its whistling does anybody know why
Make sure your system is not low on pressure.
This is NOT a 'fix'. When a bearing is shot then its shot. A circ may not be exactly cheap, but dealing with burst pipes in the dead of winter is going to cost a while hell of a lot more. And motor cartridge cost more than entire unit so don't waste time trying to service it. REPLACE!
He says temporary for a night or a week
Other than for purpose of draining crap out of a water tank.....why drain the tank?. The vid says to do this, it should just say to "relieve pressure", which really is all that is needed. Saying to drain the tank also implies a total drain....also not necessary., maybe only a bit if at all. Close the cold water supply valve to the tank.... open some faucets in your home to drain, ....and you shouldn't have to drain 30-50 gals of your tank.
If you are doing this in your own home, it may be worth it, but as a business owner, you’re going to want to replace that pump and save yourself a call back and wasted time and money. Replace the pump.
If the circulator isn't working doesn't it mean that the water is not heating?
No its not controlled by temp so it may be hot or cold and the pump would move the water either way
@@SilverCymbal thank you! I had a roth tank installed and since then no hot water is available. Only cold water. The guy said it's cause the oil level is too low. In roth tanks the oil line is at the top of the tank and then there is a pipe going all the way down to about 1 inch from the bottom of the tank. So the burner has to pull the oil against gravity. I know that the oil is more than one inch above the bottom because there is about 25 to 30 gallon in the tank. Which means it is about 6 inches high in the tank. I have ordered more oil, so we'll se if it fixes the problem. I didnt want to order more oil until the insprctiom was done.
The light that was flashing on my system 2000 imdicated that there was a "ciculation" issue or "burner lockout". The burner is locked out, but when i reset it, it runs for a few seconds and then goes back to being "locked out". I'm assuming it just isnt being able to pull the oil for whatever reason. Maybe therr is air in the line.
@@SilverCymbal So the problem was that there was air in the line. Guess they didn't bleed the line after the changeover. I learned how to do it on youtube so did it myself. Half a weekend gone over this but I learned something new and will know for the future.
@@boreduser12 Your system should runn whether or not it has 20 gallons of oil or 275. That doesn't sound run. Either the burner needs to be bled or the piping on the Roth needs to be checked out. I would call Roth and see how happy they are about what he told you, they should get you some help,
@@SilverCymbal thanks for your help. I have another question, hopefully you dont mind me asking. An oil company came and filled up my tank and their truck gauge (or whatever method they use) said it is full. However, when i checked my new oil tank in the basement, the reading on that said 7/8th full. Is that a problem on their end or mine? Thanks again.
With my luck it will freeze up when it’s -30 n 10 pm
Use a T Handel Allen set Ada, lol.
Lol crunchies
You didn't fix anything... nothing was broken. More like maintenanced. How bout you take the whole motor apart and show people what's inside and maybe how to replace a bearing.
These have sealed bearings and windings and can't be serviced further than I showed. Stuck rotors are common on these especially if the lines are loaded with metallic particles like mine was. This is handy if you are in a jam with a frozen motor in the middle of the night and can get you heat again. Thank you for the comment and watching.
Silver Cymbal Good to know thanks. Your title is misleading tho