I can appreciate this detailed pump replacement clip living up in north America. A more suitable name for your informative video would be something like: Circulator pump replacement made easy. My circulator pump started making noise so I purchased the replacement. Your tips will make it a cake walk! #circulatorpump #boilerpump #heatingpump #pumpreplace
This was one of the best how to videos I've seen and I've watched thousands. You are a great teacher and explain every detail because you know the skill level varies in your audience and it's much appreciated.
This was an excellent video! Very clear instruction to every step. I replaced my circulator pump with this same model and it went very well, Thank you for saving me hundreds of bucks!!
LOVE Wago lever nuts. I particularly like the newer, smaller ones made of clear plastic. They more than meet all sorts of stringent specs, and people who feel like the only way is to mangle their conductors together with traditional wirenuts are just not correct. The Wagos even come in varieties spec'd for industrial and hazardous applications. While I don't use them exclusively, I use them wherever there are clear benefits like tying in new work to old wiring in my 1950's house.
wow, very nicely DONE!! Excellent Video!! You had pure explanations and the video was Clear and Brightly Lit !!! Your video is how all other videos should be made!! Thank you!
After replacing a pump, a expansion tank or any other component, does it need to purge the air out? I didn't see it in this video, I'm wondering. BTW great video, I understood every step of the video, great teacher for newbies like me, thanks for the effort man.
Love your love of technology, as I believe you know, been out of field 6 years, this pump is new to me, we used taco oo7s with red b&g red gaskets to the old monsters
I remember all those gaskets. I guess they worked for many years so I cam't fault them much but I really do like these new EDM pumps. But they are very sensitive to dirty water so it needs to be pretty clean to keep functioning well.
Tech is great and all, but this pump looks brand new and already needs replacing. Have a series 100 B&G on my boiler - thing is like 60 years old and has only ever needed consumables replaced
First off he should have disconnected wiring before he removed pump and connected wiring to new pump, then he could have swapped it on immediately instead of being dripped on.
Point being is to not have the water drip as long as it did. So yes either way would work since he cut the power but in general it’s just cleaner work if you detach the wiring to the circulator pump before removing the pump.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks for sharing. I agree with Taco's recommendation regarding gaskets and I think those flat gaskets people often add at the flanges are not only unnecessary, but can make the seal worse with time.
great video.. must of been a pain to tighten that screw for the electrical plate LOL.. I do understand that you needed to get the pump on first because the shut off valve was leaking a bit and that's why you went with that order of operation.
Good video, Great pump, excellent presentation, if I had saw this video before I brought the 007-F5, I would have got this one , it's what it says, universal, ( in all aspects) .
Is it possible to have a weak circulator pump, or do they either work or not work? It's hard to tell because one would get some heat due to gravity effect.
People, if you want warm water coming out fast at the faucet, simply make the loop without installing the pump. Pump is not necessary at all. Once the full loop is made in the warm water line, warm water will circulate through the warm water pipe by convection effect where hot water expands in the heater and forces the water to move through the loop to colder region and back into the heater and continue the cycle. I had a water pump installed but failed and I took it out and bypassed it and I still get nice hot water very quickly better than ever before with no headache to deal with failing pump or timer. Pump and timer are expensive and difficult to maintain and absolutely not needed in most residential use. If you do not believe me, try first before you take the trouble of installing one.
You did not bleed the system. Was that left out or do you rely on the auto bleeder. Not an attack, I want to replace a circulater and bleeding is the part that makes me hesitant.
Oh man, when you put that wrench on there to hold up the pipe, I thought for sure you would be fishing it out of the bottom pipe later! At least that would be my luck.
Quick question ,if the pump is located on top as hight as the water heater, is it necessary to pry the tank as well? Of course shouting of the incoming water as only one shut off is available. Thanks
Great video, thank you. I had a question. If the pipe fitting is fine, and not leaking but the pup is making noise, what do you think of leaving the fitting and just replacing the motor section of the Tyco pump? Is it worth it to just leave it, or would it be silly to not take the time to replace the pipe fitting and seals, etc?
great detailed video! Since you cannot tell whether the pump is running effectively, how can you tell if you have a bad pump? Any advise you can provide is greatly apreciated.
Thank you very much. With the original pump the only way you can really tell is to listen to the pump and get close to it. If it sounds rattly or noisy its probably bad or going bad. The other way is to see how it is working, meaning if it runs your heating zone and it feels that the pipes get hot quickly when it is on then it is probably good. I don't like the waste money but they are not terribly expensive and if yours is 10+ years old it is good insurance to change it out but that is up to you. For me losing heat is really bad so I am OK to spend a little more upfront to keep the components newer. I hope this helps. Also please click thumbs up on the and vieo to subscribe to my channel for new videos! Best wishes.
Thanks for your immediate response. I'm here in Ohio and we are currently experiencing single digit temps. My pipes froze a couple of days ago even though the boiler operated normally. I suspect the pump went bad because the majority of the pipes separated from the elbow joints. I gave you a thumbs up and just subscribed. thanks!
I"m installing a new boiler and I thought that the Taco Circulating Pump was hooked up on the hot water feed on the old system. Should I install it on the cold water return so that it isn't fighting gravity as much? It doesn't seem to like being on the hot water feed.
Thanks for the very detailed video! I'm considering changing one of my circulator pumps from a B+G nrf-22 to a Taco 0010 because I have about 70 feet of aluminum baseboards with 3/4 inch pex and the baseboards at the end of the loop are really getting that hot. I was thinking that I might need a stronger pump. I think the taco might be a little shorter in height. Can this be done without having the make height adjustments to the copper piping. I'm trying to make this a DIY job after watching this video.
You can double check the specs on their sites but normally the circulator pumps are exactly the same heights so that they can be swapped out easily. When I switched my 007 to the VT ECM pump both from Tacom as shown in the video the height is identical. Hope that helps.
I’m thinking about upgrading from my old Bumblebee to a new Viridian. I have an old converted gravity system with a Burnham ESC boiler...the bumblebee has been great but it’s a bit noisy (has been since new - kind of a mechanical/electrical buzz that resonates throughout the system). Anyway - how do you like the Viridian?
I really love the Virdian VT2218. Since the Viridian varies it's it's operating speed and is rarely on hight it's noise is inaudible throughout the house. For me that was an extra benefit. Easy to install. Only mistake I made was that I should have flushed my system first, just with water. I had a lot of build up which is not good for ECM. Thank you for watching, please subscribe to me as well as I will have a lot more videos in the near future.
helpful video. thank you. two questions. first. I want to be sure that in addition to the flow direction being correct, the check valve needs to go on the outflow side, correct? Second when turning off the electric to the boiler and pump, will the pilot need to be re lit after turning back on? thanks again!!
Depending on which pump you buy the position of the valve may be different but in almost every design he valve will physically only fit in one spot so just follow your manual and when installing it, it will fill snug but will fit properly. Pilots vary, on an oil system there is no pilot to re-light but assuming your gas you may have a pilot that will require re-lighting.
thanks. 1 more question- I just opened the old grundfos pump to disconnect the wires and there is a third, ground wire. the the grundfos had a third quick connect hole for the ground but not the taco 007. what do I do with the ground??@@SilverCymbal
@@rgershberg Most Taco's do not use a ground wire and state they are "double insulated" and don't require it. From what you have described I would cap it if it was my system but you could have other things going on so speaking with an electrician or contacting Taco would be the best idea to be sure before working on it. You can also post that question on www.heatinghelp.com they are excellent for specific questions and fast.
@t question is this will the newer rubber old ring work with the old flange that's on my boiler or do I need to install a regular flange gasket? Question 2# Whats the prefer nipple to connect to the flange to the boiler brass or galvanize pipe?
They do but it's usually not a good idea. They price the cartridges at about 80% of the pump price and the other issue is that corrosion is usually bad. So when you try to change the inside it won't really work. Most plumbers never do it, and my experience has been it isn't worth it.
Anyone know if the water flowing from the tank to the cartridge circulator (and then to 3 zone circulators for baseboard heating) should be slow? When I crack my Taco circulator open, very little (and dirty) water comes out. When should water be flowing more rapidly? When there's a demand for hot water? Noob question but I'm now trying to fully understand my boiler system
Very nice video however you didn't show how to drain the water out of your boiler which you had mentioned you was going to do because I don't have shut off valves.
Good stuff, word to the wise from a plumber there is ABSOLUTELY such a thing is too tight you tighten them too much and those flanges will snap right off and you'll be spending extra money to get a new circulator... not fun LOL
They do have ratings. I saw a video last year where a guy tested his Wago connectors. I think the connector was rated around 30 amps. It worked up to about 90 A or so before it began to deform. Not bad. If I remember right, it did not begin to heat until after 50A and the wire did loose it's insulation before the Wago began to deform. Look it up. Was interesting. I had my doubts too.
I can usually feel the vibration of my circulation pump pumping. but I am not sure if it is running or not. slight vibration, but doesn't seem like it is vibrating like it used to? Problem is the pressure relief valve is now leaking and the pressure gauge on the side of the boiler says 30 psi. I did try purging air from the 6 zone system,, one zone at a time, until no bubbles what so ever. I also purged the air from the boiler until no bubbles from a garden hose stuck in a 5 gallon bucket. When I did that the pressure went down to 12 psi like it should with a 12 psi regulator on the water source.. I then fired up the boiler, with just one zone calling for heat, One thermostat open and the zone valve was open also, and kept feeling of the circulator pump and still could not tell if it was running or not. The pressure came back up to 30 psi and the temperature to 180 and then the system shut down with a small but steady stream of water from the pressure relief valve. Do you think the pressure built up to 30 psi is because the circulator pump is not running and is bad?
He mentioned something about air and it didn’t get picked up by the video. Do you have to worry about air. I heard of you don’t address it gets noisey.
Nevermind, I hit my pump with a wrench and it started working. Maybe it was stuck with sediment because I am on well water? It doesnt make any noise but it gets really hot.
Just be careful that cane sometimes work but it usually doesn't last. These pumps are under $100 and can last 10-20 years. You might want to plan a replacement before it goes on you again if its more than 10 years old.
Silver Cymbal 12 years since I have been here, furnace installed in 1996. I have a replacement, it is red the old one is blue. Hopefully the specs are the same. Maybe it was the check valve that was stuck, not the impeller and hitting it worked.
@@SilverCymbal Wouldn't they last longer if they were on the return side of the system close to the boiler? In this setup it looks like the circulator sits in hot water 24/7.
Like I said about tech stuff, I guessed you would use wagos , after your comment about wire nuts. Tried finding them at Lowe’s or Home Depot, they just had cheep looking knock offs.
Might just be to isolate the house so you can do service and you wont have to rain as much water without one at all. Better if you have them on both sides but this is NIOT usually this way unless you specifically ask. Good installers do it but that's good ones.
I had a pump that was over 40 years and the I used wd-40 for about 15 days ( did the replacement during the summer), 3 out of the 4 came off one with vice grips, the last one I had to use a sawzall and a metal blade on the pump side, I cut the bolt and the nut clean off, (dirty harry) lo, be careful, legal disclaimer, if you use the sawzall and get hurt I am not responsible for any injuries.
It’s weird why don’t you have a pipe hanger so when you remove it the pipe won’t fall down. Also next time do the electrical first that way you won’t have water dripping on the electrical wires.
$190 for a new IFC. We were quoted $560 for installing a new one. Now, I understand that these places need to make money, and pay their employees, but in this instance I'm gonna have to tackle it myself.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
😀 If you enjoyed this video please *SUBSCRIBE* and *LIKE* . It *really helps* keep my channel going Taco Pump: amzn.to/3fnWfoM
4am and need to change my pump. This is by far the best video in helping educate me on what I’m up against today .
Glad it could help. Good luck with your replacement.
I can appreciate this detailed pump replacement clip living up in north America. A more suitable name for your informative video would be something like: Circulator pump replacement made easy.
My circulator pump started making noise so I purchased the replacement. Your tips will make it a cake walk!
#circulatorpump #boilerpump #heatingpump #pumpreplace
Great video, nicely done for a homeowner handyman like myself.
I like when people do videos slowly explain things and don’t cut
Glad you enjoyed it
This was one of the best how to videos I've seen and I've watched thousands. You are a great teacher and explain every detail because you know the skill level varies in your audience and it's much appreciated.
Thank you very much for the kind words, and for watching my videos. I really appreciate it. Best of luck with your project. Best wishes to you.
I Agree !
This was an excellent video! Very clear instruction to every step. I replaced my circulator pump with this same model and it went very well, Thank you for saving me hundreds of bucks!!
So glad it helped! and thank you for the kind comment.
Used your video and changed out a B & G to a tako in my sister house. Great job 👏 thnx
LOVE Wago lever nuts. I particularly like the newer, smaller ones made of clear plastic. They more than meet all sorts of stringent specs, and people who feel like the only way is to mangle their conductors together with traditional wirenuts are just not correct. The Wagos even come in varieties spec'd for industrial and hazardous applications. While I don't use them exclusively, I use them wherever there are clear benefits like tying in new work to old wiring in my 1950's house.
He spoke the real English. Thanks
It's always easy when your working on a newer system...but very good information 👍
wow, very nicely DONE!! Excellent Video!! You had pure explanations and the video was Clear and Brightly Lit !!! Your video is how all other videos should be made!! Thank you!
After replacing a pump, a expansion tank or any other component, does it need to purge the air out? I didn't see it in this video, I'm wondering. BTW great video, I understood every step of the video, great teacher for newbies like me, thanks for the effort man.
Thanks for making this video! Well done!
Excellent video on replacing the circulator pump!
Thanks, Silver Cymbal, forcthe helpful video 🙂
Remember that God loves you and wants your love too! Keep His commandments and abide in His love! 🙂
Love your love of technology, as I believe you know, been out of field 6 years, this pump is new to me, we used taco oo7s with red b&g red gaskets to the old monsters
I remember all those gaskets. I guess they worked for many years so I cam't fault them much but I really do like these new EDM pumps. But they are very sensitive to dirty water so it needs to be pretty clean to keep functioning well.
Tech is great and all, but this pump looks brand new and already needs replacing. Have a series 100 B&G on my boiler - thing is like 60 years old and has only ever needed consumables replaced
Awesome video. Thank you for posting
First off he should have disconnected wiring before he removed pump and connected wiring to new pump, then he could have swapped it on immediately instead of being dripped on.
Did he cut the power to the pumps first by shutting off the boiler? If so then this would kill any risk to the connections.
Point being is to not have the water drip as long as it did. So yes either way would work since he cut the power but in general it’s just cleaner work if you detach the wiring to the circulator pump before removing the pump.
Perfect teaching
Thank you! 😃
Thanks for this! Great video!
Glad it was helpful!
6:20 It should be noted, make sure that wrench is larger than the pipe below :-)
Good video, topic well explained and quality is very nice.
Thank you very much I appreciate that.
@@SilverCymbal Thanks for sharing.
I agree with Taco's recommendation regarding gaskets and I think those flat gaskets people often add at the flanges are not only unnecessary, but can make the seal worse with time.
great video.. must of been a pain to tighten that screw for the electrical plate LOL.. I do understand that you needed to get the pump on first because the shut off valve was leaking a bit and that's why you went with that order of operation.
Nicely done!
Very helpful and informative, thanks!
Good video, Great pump, excellent presentation, if I had saw this video before I brought the 007-F5, I would have got this one , it's what it says, universal, ( in all aspects) .
Is it possible to have a weak circulator pump, or do they either work or not work? It's hard to tell because one would get some heat due to gravity effect.
Outstanding ! Great info & video quality !
Thank you very much - If you would please *Thumbs Up* the video and *Subscribe* for more great videos
Great Video 👍🏾👍🏾
People, if you want warm water coming out fast at the faucet, simply make the loop without installing the pump. Pump is not necessary at all. Once the full loop is made in the warm water line, warm water will circulate through the warm water pipe by convection effect where hot water expands in the heater and forces the water to move through the loop to colder region and back into the heater and continue the cycle. I had a water pump installed but failed and I took it out and bypassed it and I still get nice hot water very quickly better than ever before with no headache to deal with failing pump or timer. Pump and timer are expensive and difficult to maintain and absolutely not needed in most residential use. If you do not believe me, try first before you take the trouble of installing one.
Nice work boots. Safety First!!
Nice a video bless you and your family
you really using the greek flag towel for this bro! :)
You did not bleed the system. Was that left out or do you rely on the auto bleeder. Not an attack, I want to replace a circulater and bleeding is the part that makes me hesitant.
EXCELLENT VIDEO
Oh man, when you put that wrench on there to hold up the pipe, I thought for sure you would be fishing it out of the bottom pipe later! At least that would be my luck.
Great video, thank you!!!
Thank you
Great video
Top Notch Install !
Good job thank you 👍👍
Thank you too
Thank you! 🙌🏽 fixed 😊
Would have loved to know what size wrench
Quick question ,if the pump is located on top as hight as the water heater, is it necessary to pry the tank as well? Of course shouting of the incoming water as only one shut off is available.
Thanks
Thank you so much.
Great video, thank you. I had a question. If the pipe fitting is fine, and not leaking but the pup is making noise, what do you think of leaving the fitting and just replacing the motor section of the Tyco pump? Is it worth it to just leave it, or would it be silly to not take the time to replace the pipe fitting and seals, etc?
Hi There, thx for the posting this. How do you configure the wire for the second pump
I noticed you installed the new pump in the reverse direction as the old one.
Any problems with that?
the flow arrow direction should be the same way, if not you may have to turn the pump 180 deg
great detailed video! Since you cannot tell whether the pump is running effectively, how can you tell if you have a bad pump? Any advise you can provide is greatly apreciated.
Thank you very much. With the original pump the only way you can really tell is to listen to the pump and get close to it. If it sounds rattly or noisy its probably bad or going bad. The other way is to see how it is working, meaning if it runs your heating zone and it feels that the pipes get hot quickly when it is on then it is probably good. I don't like the waste money but they are not terribly expensive and if yours is 10+ years old it is good insurance to change it out but that is up to you. For me losing heat is really bad so I am OK to spend a little more upfront to keep the components newer. I hope this helps. Also please click thumbs up on the and vieo to subscribe to my channel for new videos! Best wishes.
Thanks for your immediate response. I'm here in Ohio and we are currently experiencing single digit temps. My pipes froze a couple of days ago even though the boiler operated normally. I suspect the pump went bad because the majority of the pipes separated from the elbow joints. I gave you a thumbs up and just subscribed. thanks!
Are you able to change out that top shut-off valve, if you wanted?
I"m installing a new boiler and I thought that the Taco Circulating Pump was hooked up on the hot water feed on the old system. Should I install it on the cold water return so that it isn't fighting gravity as much? It doesn't seem to like being on the hot water feed.
Thanks for the very detailed video! I'm considering changing one of my circulator pumps from a B+G nrf-22 to a Taco 0010 because I have about 70 feet of aluminum baseboards with 3/4 inch pex and the baseboards at the end of the loop are really getting that hot. I was thinking that I might need a stronger pump. I think the taco might be a little shorter in height. Can this be done without having the make height adjustments to the copper piping. I'm trying to make this a DIY job after watching this video.
You can double check the specs on their sites but normally the circulator pumps are exactly the same heights so that they can be swapped out easily. When I switched my 007 to the VT ECM pump both from Tacom as shown in the video the height is identical. Hope that helps.
@@SilverCymbal okay. I thought that since I was switching brands it might be different. Thanks.
Craigslist
Did it turn out that the newer version lasted?
why not just change the cartridge? I am trying to fix mine too, but need some advice on which way to go.
Nice video very helpful thanks
Do you need to do something to get air out of the lines when you finish?
It depends, if you dont have to drain much out you might be ok, otherwise yes you may need to bleed it. Sorry I wish I had a more exact answer
I’m thinking about upgrading from my old Bumblebee to a new Viridian. I have an old converted gravity system with a Burnham ESC boiler...the bumblebee has been great but it’s a bit noisy (has been since new - kind of a mechanical/electrical buzz that resonates throughout the system). Anyway - how do you like the Viridian?
I really love the Virdian VT2218. Since the Viridian varies it's it's operating speed and is rarely on hight it's noise is inaudible throughout the house. For me that was an extra benefit. Easy to install. Only mistake I made was that I should have flushed my system first, just with water. I had a lot of build up which is not good for ECM. Thank you for watching, please subscribe to me as well as I will have a lot more videos in the near future.
helpful video. thank you. two questions. first. I want to be sure that in addition to the flow direction being correct, the check valve needs to go on the outflow side, correct? Second when turning off the electric to the boiler and pump, will the pilot need to be re lit after turning back on? thanks again!!
Depending on which pump you buy the position of the valve may be different but in almost every design he valve will physically only fit in one spot so just follow your manual and when installing it, it will fill snug but will fit properly. Pilots vary, on an oil system there is no pilot to re-light but assuming your gas you may have a pilot that will require re-lighting.
thanks. 1 more question- I just opened the old grundfos pump to disconnect the wires and there is a third, ground wire. the the grundfos had a third quick connect hole for the ground but not the taco 007. what do I do with the ground??@@SilverCymbal
@@rgershberg Most Taco's do not use a ground wire and state they are "double insulated" and don't require it. From what you have described I would cap it if it was my system but you could have other things going on so speaking with an electrician or contacting Taco would be the best idea to be sure before working on it. You can also post that question on www.heatinghelp.com they are excellent for specific questions and fast.
Can I use this kind of pump off a steam boiler system to circulate the water for the baseboard in the basement?
@t question is this will the newer rubber old ring work with the old flange that's on my boiler or do I need to install a regular flange gasket? Question 2# Whats the prefer nipple to connect to the flange to the boiler brass or galvanize pipe?
My old pump did not have the check valve in it. Do I install the check valve in the new one?
Pro Tip:
Disconnect electrical BEFORE removing old pump. then reconnect electrical AFTER installing new pump.
So much easier.....
I wonder what the power savings is by changing from the 007 to the new one?
Do the pumps have a Replaceable Cartridge?
They do but it's usually not a good idea. They price the cartridges at about 80% of the pump price and the other issue is that corrosion is usually bad. So when you try to change the inside it won't really work. Most plumbers never do it, and my experience has been it isn't worth it.
Hi, do i need to shut off electricity when connecting those wires?
Is there a need to do any type of bleed ?
Anyone know if the water flowing from the tank to the cartridge circulator (and then to 3 zone circulators for baseboard heating) should be slow? When I crack my Taco circulator open, very little (and dirty) water comes out. When should water be flowing more rapidly? When there's a demand for hot water? Noob question but I'm now trying to fully understand my boiler system
Wish my bolts n flanges were as clean as yours and that i had shut offs!!!
Very nice video however you didn't show how to drain the water out of your boiler which you had mentioned you was going to do because I don't have shut off valves.
Good stuff, word to the wise from a plumber there is ABSOLUTELY such a thing is too tight you tighten them too much and those flanges will snap right off and you'll be spending extra money to get a new circulator... not fun LOL
The electrical connector is good for that application, however not good for high amp applications.
They do have ratings. I saw a video last year where a guy tested his Wago connectors. I think the connector was rated around 30 amps. It worked up to about 90 A or so before it began to deform. Not bad. If I remember right, it did not begin to heat until after 50A and the wire did loose it's insulation before the Wago began to deform.
Look it up. Was interesting. I had my doubts too.
What's up with the other Delta t circulator next to it? Is that just a different circulation loop?
Yes one is for domestic hot water with an indirect tank and the other circulator does all heating zones in the house.
Any info on how that pump is working?
I have 3 thermostats on my pump too.
how do I wire those?
I can usually feel the vibration of my circulation pump pumping. but I am not sure if it is running or not. slight vibration, but doesn't seem like it is vibrating like it used to?
Problem is the pressure relief valve is now leaking and the pressure gauge on the side of the boiler says 30 psi. I did try purging air from the 6 zone system,, one zone at a time, until no bubbles what so ever. I also purged the air from the boiler until no bubbles from a garden hose stuck in a 5 gallon bucket. When I did that the pressure went down to 12 psi like it should with a 12 psi regulator on the water source.. I then fired up the boiler, with just one zone calling for heat, One thermostat open and the zone valve was open also, and kept feeling of the circulator pump and still could not tell if it was running or not. The pressure came back up to 30 psi and the temperature to 180 and then the system shut down with a small but steady stream of water from the pressure relief valve.
Do you think the pressure built up to 30 psi is because the circulator pump is not running and is bad?
I realize this is an old question, but it sounds like a faulty expansion tank.
He mentioned something about air and it didn’t get picked up by the video. Do you have to worry about air. I heard of you don’t address it gets noisey.
Because it was leaking past the shut off, why wouldn't you install the new pump with o-rings and bolts and then do the wiring?
That's fine, the power was off but you can do it whichever way was more comfortable for you
Nevermind, I hit my pump with a wrench and it started working. Maybe it was stuck with sediment because I am on well water? It doesnt make any noise but it gets really hot.
Just be careful that cane sometimes work but it usually doesn't last. These pumps are under $100 and can last 10-20 years. You might want to plan a replacement before it goes on you again if its more than 10 years old.
Silver Cymbal 12 years since I have been here, furnace installed in 1996. I have a replacement, it is red the old one is blue. Hopefully the specs are the same. Maybe it was the check valve that was stuck, not the impeller and hitting it worked.
@@SilverCymbal Wouldn't they last longer if they were on the return side of the system close to the boiler? In this setup it looks like the circulator sits in hot water 24/7.
No lubrication required on O-rings?
No they are just put in place
Kids screaming in background.
RUclips: [MUSIC]
LMAO
100%
Hi what size wrench do you need for the bolts
They can vary but most often they are 5/8" and the other 11/16". So you need two wrenches or an adjustable. Thank you for watching the video.
Thanks
I successfully changed my pump for the first time . Thanks for the video.
That's awesome. Glad it helped! Heat is a good thing especially with the weather we have right now!
Like I said about tech stuff, I guessed you would use wagos , after your comment about wire nuts. Tried finding them at Lowe’s or Home Depot, they just had cheep looking knock offs.
The ones I have seen there are bad news. I bought my Wagos from Amazon. I really love them.
how can I tell if my circulator pump on heating system boiler is working?
Check out my other video in my plumbing and heating section on my channel on oil heat basics. It takes you through many of the components.
I have one shut off on top..why wouldnt they put 2?
Might just be to isolate the house so you can do service and you wont have to rain as much water without one at all. Better if you have them on both sides but this is NIOT usually this way unless you specifically ask. Good installers do it but that's good ones.
I had a pump that was over 40 years and the I used wd-40 for about 15 days ( did the replacement during the summer), 3 out of the 4 came off one with vice grips, the last one I had to use a sawzall and a metal blade on the pump side, I cut the bolt and the nut clean off, (dirty harry) lo, be careful, legal disclaimer, if you use the sawzall and get hurt I am not responsible for any injuries.
Lol, why don’t you unwiring first before you move the pump?
Someone was thinking putting in those isolation flanges
It’s weird why don’t you have a pipe hanger so when you remove it the pipe won’t fall down. Also next time do the electrical first that way you won’t have water dripping on the electrical wires.
Nothing about air purge,🧐🧐🧐
I was do is removed wire then remove pumps
$190 for a new IFC. We were quoted $560 for installing a new one. Now, I understand that these places need to make money, and pay their employees, but in this instance I'm gonna have to tackle it myself.
I would've disconnected the electric to the pump first.
No good to me in U.K. entirely different set-up!
Bro your next project is replace this valves man pain on the neck, do the work right
Boiler system is brand new yet he says this bolt have been on for long time… WTF
000 rust my man.. I can tell u never been on field
I think u need a new shutoff