This is probably the clearest explanation for the big 3 upgrade I’ve ever watched. Like someone else said you cut some stuff out but you were using one hand to record, but you still explained everything very, very well.
@@OXCFilmsTHANK YOU this was the clearest best explained tutorial... Gauge size...lugs..shrink wrap and terminals I have a question... Most cars have the cylinder head cover grounded to the fire wall .. would you recommend this?
I see the positive cable from the positive battery terminal to the alternator, but where is the cable from positive to the starter? Do they sell silicone covers for those huge battery terminal connectors? A short waiting to happen if someone drops a wrench near those terminals. Speaking of shorts....where is the fuse off of the battery positive?
I have a questions , I have two batteries and the positives I have them on a isolator how would I wire them up for the big 3 I’m also planning on putting a high output alternator . TÍA
We heard that its a good idea to run a battery isolator when you are running 2 different batteries. We have matching xs batteries with no isolator and no issues at all
Not throwing any shade, but those cable cutters you used at 2:32, work great as strippers for the job at 2:45. Just relax your grip and spin them around the insulation, they'll chew off a perfect circle that you can yank off once you get the right depth. It takes some practice, but I always used my cable cutters to strip large gauge wire as an electrician. Getting out the razor knife is usually always a last resort at work. Very sharp, maybe blood, reports, etc. :D
@@OXCFilms lol, yeah I hear ya on that one. Once they're dull or have chunks taken out of them, they probably aren't worth a damn. It's a good tip for anyone browsing comments though. I bought a Greenlee pair many years ago, and they are worth their weight in an electrician tool bag for sure. Just don't lend them out ;)
Why worry about the engine block ground when you are grounding the alternator case? The alternator is mounted to the engine with metallic supports and the battery negative terminal is already connected to the chassis so this seems to be a duplication of effort.
Ground to chassis is the actual frame of the vehicle and ground to body the the body of the vehicle, the body sits on the chassis but between them there is rubber mounts so thats why it i ground them individually
Isn’t part of the big 3/4 is the engine ground to chassis or frame? The purpose of the these upgrades is to strengthen the original factory grounds based on what I’ve seen on YT. I stumbled across this based on the channel’s algorithm since I follow mechanics on here. Basic big 3 is battery ground, engine ground and alternator positive. Add the back of the alternator ground or even just using the alternator case and you got 4.
Ok I have a stupid question. So I have no issue with getting this all set up, I'm strangely afraid of electricity. So when I put that alternator power wire on the battery terminal how bad is it going to spark and scare the shit out of me? Serious question.
We have seen a lot of installs with the ground on the alternatoe bracket, but we have since moved the ground to the bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket. The lug is not actually touching the alternator
We decided not to run a fuse because it was a small run from battery to alternator. We have seen some people run the inline fuse and we seen some people not run it. We just decided not to run it
Thanks for choosing OPTIMA batteries! REDTOP batteries are great SLI (starting/lighting/ignition) batteries, but they are not designed or warrantied for deep-cycle use, including car audio applications. In those specific applications, we would recommend our dual-purpose YELLOWTOP batteries. Learn more here: ruclips.net/user/shorts3qlqEyfXW1k
After I crimp my terminals I drill holes in the copper terminals and heat it with a torch and fill the cavity with soilder! I also use welding lead wire it’s 100%copper and like 70% more strands! I build and sell these kits for any vehicle! I also run all wire thru non adhesive shrink tubing and Alex colored wire loom! Then I use super nice commercial grade adhesive dual walked shrink tubing on all terminals! Your factory stereo will sound better when my kits are installed!
We dont sell premade kits but they do have them on some sites. We would be able to make them and install them for you but the vehicle would have to be here so we can make everything to the right length
Thank you. Cant remember. Will check the crimp kit tomorrow. But i know there is 2 sizes that fit, one crimps it and it looks nice and the second one when it crimps it it doesnt look as nice but its a lot tighter on the wire
You can add this on top of the existing wires or remove the old wires for a cleaner look. For this one we left the existing wires on the side posts of the battery and just added the zero gauge wires to the top post
I noticed you grounded to the alternator it self. Would there be any benefit to also doing the engine ground to a 0 guage or would it just be unnecessary?
To be completely honest we arent sure but since there is a ground to the engine we might aswell upgrade it. Everyone else talks about it so we went ahead and did it.
@@OXCFilms so I’m guessing since your going straight from alternator to battery you don’t need it? I’m in the process of doing my 02 Silverado I’m just trying to ask all the questions I can.
@@OXCFilms ok i asked cause i did mine today but did not ground the alternator and i used a cable thats hard to find and have piece that i can ground my alternator to the frame /body of the car its short
Great video, very helpful. Please comment on my unique situation. I've got a bmw x5 with a rear mounted main battery under the spare wheel. There is no front battery. From the factory there is a 1/0 run from the alternator to the rear main battery. Type bic group 49... I plan to upgrade that battery to an xs power D4900. How would the big 3/4 apply to this situation. Thanks in advance for your consideration. (Sundown 12" x v3 with d4s JP23 amp, alpine 4 channel amp for door speakers)
Thank you! We are no experts but we think that for power you are set if you have a power cable from alternator directly to battery. For the grounds we would have one ground to the body, one ground to chassis if its a chassis vehicle and one 0 gauge wire run all the way to the alternator bracket. Dont just take our word for it, but ask a couple of other people with more experiance and see whats their opinion also. Best of luck with your build 👍
Grounding the alt case is easiest on those cramped x-series bimmers, the alt is already grounded to the block via bracket and in my experience of ownership with SERIOUS systems in those cars( full seat removal 250lb fiberglass tuning in rear sear boxes type of builds) the engine blocks are grounded fine factory lol. Make life simple, 0 gauge your bracket or alt case.
Well the big 4 includes one power straight to the alternator and then multiple grounds. Ground to body, chassis, and straight to the alternator casing or as close to the alternator as possible. The grounds are needed
Well from what we have read is that sound systems need good power and good ground to give good results so we believe it should make a difference. I guess its kind of like running 0awg power and 8awg ground, wouldnt be good.
after done a big3 or big4. doesn't need to add more a grounding cable because big4 already complete a grounded of your car. battery negatif to engine + chassis + alternator body. just complete grounding at now ☑️
If i do the big 3/4 upgrade, can this solve my problem.. Mine is when i put the light on/radio/spotlight/ac, my engine rpm drop to 500/600 from 1000rpm.. Can this solve it? Or i have something else issue..
This can possibly help, but if you are running a sound system it is a good idea to upgrade the power and ground cables regardless to avoid issues with the system and improve the charging
@@OXCFilms if you haven’t turned it around yet you need to. What do you think is gonna happen if for some reason the battery (like you have it now) slides up and makes contact with the fender?
This is probably the clearest explanation for the big 3 upgrade I’ve ever watched. Like someone else said you cut some stuff out but you were using one hand to record, but you still explained everything very, very well.
Thank you! We try our best to get every detail.
@@OXCFilmsTHANK YOU this was the clearest best explained tutorial... Gauge size...lugs..shrink wrap and terminals
I have a question... Most cars have the cylinder head cover grounded to the fire wall .. would you recommend this?
Thank you! We would go straight from the block to firewall just to have it out of the way if you were to remove the heads one day
@@OXCFilms thank you
I agree very plain and clear
Bro awesome video legit cleanest big 3 tutorial I always forget what wires go on positive & negative 😂
Thank you! Go by the color lol
Lmao that’s why I’m here!
Average blue collar dude,
Great content, audio, video, explanation, teacher
Looking forward to more content
Respect 👌
Thanks! Check out our other big 4 upgrade videos 👍
Looks good! dont forget to clearcoat (or similiar) the connections to prevent corrosion/rust etc.
good work!
Thank you! Yes we sprayed clear coat but didnt record it
I see the positive cable from the positive battery terminal to the alternator, but where is the cable from positive to the starter?
Do they sell silicone covers for those huge battery terminal connectors? A short waiting to happen if someone drops a wrench near those terminals. Speaking of shorts....where is the fuse off of the battery positive?
That was good stuff man!! Thank you for this video.. I saved it to my play list! Thanks again.
🙂
Thank you! Im glad you found this video helpful
Dope video. I know you cut some things out so you can work but the instructions were clear 👍👍👍
Looking good sir. Very clear explanation, I found you easy to understand. Thank you. I now know how to do this on my F150.
Thank you! Good luck with your build 👍🤙
Good job my dude!
Thank you!
Great video! Tool flex is banging! Amazon "saving for later" as I'm typing! Have 25ft both colors wiring.
Thank you! You know amazon always got the deals
@@OXCFilms right! Would you like that between 4am and 8am? Lol! Hell yeah!
Clean install bro!! 😁👍
Thank you! 👍
I have a questions , I have two batteries and the positives I have them on a isolator how would I wire them up for the big 3 I’m also planning on putting a high output alternator .
TÍA
You would wire them the same as a single battery. We have a video showing how we ground the second battery.
@@OXCFilms 10-4 boss man you think you can put the link for that video ?
ruclips.net/video/lazyS0NhTAI/видео.html
@@OXCFilms will I still need my battery isolator ? It’s a 200 amp planning on buying a 370 amp alternator
We heard that its a good idea to run a battery isolator when you are running 2 different batteries. We have matching xs batteries with no isolator and no issues at all
Engine Block ground?
Can I get a link to those 6 bolt terminals
Sure
www.ebay.com/itm/112699905376?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=NzuoyB48SV6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=qNwNEn86Rhm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Not throwing any shade, but those cable cutters you used at 2:32, work great as strippers for the job at 2:45. Just relax your grip and spin them around the insulation, they'll chew off a perfect circle that you can yank off once you get the right depth. It takes some practice, but I always used my cable cutters to strip large gauge wire as an electrician. Getting out the razor knife is usually always a last resort at work. Very sharp, maybe blood, reports, etc. :D
We used to cut the wires like that before when these cutters were sharp but someone used them to cut a coat hanger so they arent sharp anymore
@@OXCFilms lol, yeah I hear ya on that one. Once they're dull or have chunks taken out of them, they probably aren't worth a damn. It's a good tip for anyone browsing comments though. I bought a Greenlee pair many years ago, and they are worth their weight in an electrician tool bag for sure. Just don't lend them out ;)
Forsure 🤙
WHERE DID YOU GET THOSE BATTERY DISRTO BLOCKS I NEED THOSE ON MY SUBARU THANKS!
We got those on ebay. Search 6 post battery terminals
Look for a “Bonding Brush” would need a 90 degree drill though. Nice thanks!
Thanks!
Great job keep up the good work
Thank you! 🤝👍
Why worry about the engine block ground when you are grounding the alternator case? The alternator is mounted to the engine with metallic
supports and the battery negative terminal is already connected to the chassis so this seems to be a duplication of effort.
We didnt run a ground to the engine block. We just did positive to alternato and ground to chasis, ground to body, and ground to alternator bracket.
Yea you’re right , and he says ground to body and ground to chassis, if I’m not mistaken that’s basically the same thing
Ground to chassis is the actual frame of the vehicle and ground to body the the body of the vehicle, the body sits on the chassis but between them there is rubber mounts so thats why it i ground them individually
Isn’t part of the big 3/4 is the engine ground to chassis or frame? The purpose of the these upgrades is to strengthen the original factory grounds based on what I’ve seen on YT. I stumbled across this based on the channel’s algorithm since I follow mechanics on here. Basic big 3 is battery ground, engine ground and alternator positive. Add the back of the alternator ground or even just using the alternator case and you got 4.
Yes we also ran ground to the chassis
No fuse on the power line. Great way for a fire.
So no need for the linkable fuse anymore?
From battery to battery?
Great video and I like that you talk clear and was your own cameraman 💪🏾
Thank you! We try our best to multi task 😁
Ok I have a stupid question. So I have no issue with getting this all set up, I'm strangely afraid of electricity. So when I put that alternator power wire on the battery terminal how bad is it going to spark and scare the shit out of me? Serious question.
Not that bad
i might be wrong but it doesn't seem like you will get a good connection from the alternator bracket
We have seen a lot of installs with the ground on the alternatoe bracket, but we have since moved the ground to the bolt that holds the alternator to the bracket. The lug is not actually touching the alternator
Why no inline fuse from battery positive to alternator
We decided not to run a fuse because it was a small run from battery to alternator. We have seen some people run the inline fuse and we seen some people not run it. We just decided not to run it
@@OXCFilms gotcha
Did you run the new grounds through the voltage regulator?
This tbss doesnt have the regulator
Nicely,buy the way wee did you get those batterie terminals from,I would like a set?thank
We bought these on ebay. 6 spot GP battery terminals
Hey i got the same crimper what size or number was u using
Forgot the size. We will have to check but its the one that fit a bit tighter from what we can remember
Kw coilovers I see you bruh bruh big money 💰
What kind of catch can is that?
Not sure to be honest. It was on the blazer when we bought it
Thanks for choosing OPTIMA batteries! REDTOP batteries are great SLI (starting/lighting/ignition) batteries, but they are not designed or warrantied for deep-cycle use, including car audio applications. In those specific applications, we would recommend our dual-purpose YELLOWTOP batteries. Learn more here: ruclips.net/user/shorts3qlqEyfXW1k
Sponsor our channel with some yellow top batteries 😁
Where do you find these post connectors.
We got the gp 6 post on ebay
You gotta spray clear coat where you hit it with the wire brush. It’ll star rusting.
Yes we did but we didnt record that part
After I crimp my terminals I drill holes in the copper terminals and heat it with a torch and fill the cavity with soilder! I also use welding lead wire it’s 100%copper and like 70% more strands! I build and sell these kits for any vehicle! I also run all wire thru non adhesive shrink tubing and Alex colored wire loom! Then I use super nice commercial grade adhesive dual walked shrink tubing on all terminals! Your factory stereo will sound better when my kits are installed!
Post your info on here so people can contact you 👍
What’s your contact information I would love a kit pre made for my 97 suburban
Where are you located?
@@OXCFilms I’m all the way in NC
We dont sell premade kits but they do have them on some sites. We would be able to make them and install them for you but the vehicle would have to be here so we can make everything to the right length
Great video bro. What die # did use for the 1/0 lug crimp
Thank you. Cant remember. Will check the crimp kit tomorrow. But i know there is 2 sizes that fit, one crimps it and it looks nice and the second one when it crimps it it doesnt look as nice but its a lot tighter on the wire
Would rather have it tight gonna be covered with heat shrink @@OXCFilms
I’m curious now I’ve been watching videos on this and no one has explain do you remove the old thin wires to install these zero gauge wires?
You can add this on top of the existing wires or remove the old wires for a cleaner look. For this one we left the existing wires on the side posts of the battery and just added the zero gauge wires to the top post
I noticed you grounded to the alternator it self. Would there be any benefit to also doing the engine ground to a 0 guage or would it just be unnecessary?
To be completely honest we arent sure but since there is a ground to the engine we might aswell upgrade it. Everyone else talks about it so we went ahead and did it.
@@OXCFilms gotcha, I was thinking it probably wouldn't hurt to upgrade it
Hi, is it safe to connect charging wire from battery to alternator without passing thru the fuse?
We believe so. We have seen a lot of builds without fuse betwren alt and batt and we have seen a lot with fuse.
What did you end up doing to the first power cable that was attached to the alternator to the red positive junction box?
We taped up the ring terminal real good and jusy tucked it away. You can remove it completely if youd like
@@OXCFilms so I’m guessing since your going straight from alternator to battery you don’t need it? I’m in the process of doing my 02 Silverado I’m just trying to ask all the questions I can.
Yes basically you replace the factory cable. Go ahead bro ask all you want 👍
We can send you clips on ig if youd like
@@OXCFilms thanks the clips will help Asael_s89
can you ground the alternator to the frame/body of the car
Everyone one i seen do it straight to the battery. Not sure if one is better than the other.
@@OXCFilms ok i asked cause i did mine today but did not ground the alternator and i used a cable thats hard to find and have piece that i can ground my alternator to the frame /body of the car its short
Might work since you have a ground from battery to the chassis and or body. But not sure. I guess the best thing would be to go direct to the battery
@@OXCFilms okay
Good luck! Hope it works out 👍
Great video, very helpful. Please comment on my unique situation. I've got a bmw x5 with a rear mounted main battery under the spare wheel. There is no front battery. From the factory there is a 1/0 run from the alternator to the rear main battery.
Type bic group 49... I plan to upgrade that battery to an xs power D4900. How would the big 3/4 apply to this situation. Thanks in advance for your consideration. (Sundown 12" x v3 with d4s JP23 amp, alpine 4 channel amp for door speakers)
Thank you! We are no experts but we think that for power you are set if you have a power cable from alternator directly to battery. For the grounds we would have one ground to the body, one ground to chassis if its a chassis vehicle and one 0 gauge wire run all the way to the alternator bracket. Dont just take our word for it, but ask a couple of other people with more experiance and see whats their opinion also. Best of luck with your build 👍
Grounding the alt case is easiest on those cramped x-series bimmers, the alt is already grounded to the block via bracket and in my experience of ownership with SERIOUS systems in those cars( full seat removal 250lb fiberglass tuning in rear sear boxes type of builds) the engine blocks are grounded fine factory lol. Make life simple, 0 gauge your bracket or alt case.
Funny,I have the same exact crimper and cable cutters
They work really good dont they 👍
@@OXCFilms surprisingly well
In your opinion, after installing this big 4 do we still need to installing grounding cable? The multi point grounding
Well the big 4 includes one power straight to the alternator and then multiple grounds. Ground to body, chassis, and straight to the alternator casing or as close to the alternator as possible. The grounds are needed
@@OXCFilms under stand. I mean after we done with this big 4, does the installation of grounding kit will give any different?
Well from what we have read is that sound systems need good power and good ground to give good results so we believe it should make a difference. I guess its kind of like running 0awg power and 8awg ground, wouldnt be good.
after done a big3 or big4. doesn't need to add more a grounding cable because big4 already complete a grounded of your car. battery negatif to engine + chassis + alternator body. just complete grounding at now ☑️
@@SUTH_33 noted with thanks.
If i do the big 3/4 upgrade, can this solve my problem.. Mine is when i put the light on/radio/spotlight/ac, my engine rpm drop to 500/600 from 1000rpm.. Can this solve it? Or i have something else issue..
This can possibly help, but if you are running a sound system it is a good idea to upgrade the power and ground cables regardless to avoid issues with the system and improve the charging
@@OXCFilms thanks you, it help me a lot.. Next week i will make this upgrade, tq 👍 😊
Clean.
Thank you
sky high and Rockford makes the best wire. lab tested
Perfect vid bro thankx
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 🤙
Good vid! Thanks!
Thank you! 🤜🤛
Dude… you got your battery BACKWARDS! The negative side should be against the fender. Good luck bro.
Thats how the truck came
@@OXCFilms if you haven’t turned it around yet you need to. What do you think is gonna happen if for some reason the battery (like you have it now) slides up and makes contact with the fender?
Dieletric grease shoulda been done to...
We did a couple of weeks after this video was made. Didnt have any on hand at the moment
@@OXCFilms Good deal....Gread vid...Been watchin a few vids like this to do my ram...Nice job..
@craig_sez8534 thank you! Glad you enjoyed it 👍
ฉันอยากได้ขั่วแบตเตอรี่แบบนี้หาซื้อได้ที่ไหน
Sorry for the late reply. We bought these on ebay. 6 spot GP battery terminals
👍
Thanks!
Yellow Top is proper not red top.
We ended up going with 2 d3400 xs power batteries. Check those out 👍
@@OXCFilms Awesome those batteries are tried and true for their power reliability.
Yea they have been holding up pretty good
Stop saying "skyhigh". It's just another heat shrink, period!
🤙
crap audio, your not clear
Yea mybad its recorded on a gopro
I heard everything perfectly fine.
Thank you! 🤝👍