Even if you're not doing an audio deployment, the _Big 3_ worth it, at least on the Civic. Honda, like other manufacturers, understand every that every ounce of metal costs money, so they make every wire as short and as thin as they can, and the terminations aren't very well insulated, so, they corrode over time. I did the Big 3 when my Civic was 10, and noticed a substantial difference in the smoothness when coming to idle, and at idle, e.g. coming to a stop. I guess it technically could equate to a restoration of power, for some older models. Thanks for the more detailed video than what was available back in 2018!
@@danMVolta If that doesn't fix whatever you're seeing, you might try replacing other ground wires. Something tells me that you have problems with at least the radio.
@@bangdollarsign The thing is lights dim, even turning the steering and using power windows, already check alternator voltage leaks, 0.17 positive and .05 negative with the a/c, lights, radio on . The radio is fine, but IMID screen has shut off.
Cool👍🏼i did a big three in my 1965 mustang for my bass box. Emily is all original everything except that. Me and my dad built her when i was12 going on 13 im 41 now and she's still running strong.👍🏼💯💯
thanks for the video. As really your alternator is the "power source" for your car, and keeping the battery charged (the battery helps work as a filter for the power) upgrading to a higher output alternator I think is the best way for supplying power to your car amplifiers. An electrolytic capacitor for you subwoofer amp (seperate amp class D) is also recommended because subs have crazy peak draws of energy, like 60 amps to 160 amps for 1/4 of a second then back to 60 amps. Capacitor helps keep a steady power supply to your sub amp, as well capacitors also work as a filter. Just make sure to not have anything between the capacitor and your amp for the power cable. If you need to run a fuse, do it before the capacitor. Remember, the battery/alternator does not send power to the amps, the amps draws power. That's why things can go bad if not wired right.
Thank you for this video. I finally saw how a profession attacked the connection to the alternator. That part has perplexed me because I did not want to compromise the factory connection.
Great tutorial! I learned how to install a big three car audio wire upgrade easily and effectively. The instructions were clear and concise, and the visuals helped me understand each step better. Highly recommend this video for anyone looking to improve their car's audio system.
My set up is 320 amp alternator, 2 gauge big 3 upgrade adding to existing oem wires, two 1/0 runs from front battery to rear battery, two xs power d3400 batteries, two skar audio skv2 3500.1, two massive audio hippo xl 122r. Probably going to get sundown zv6 or fi audio neo 4.7 subs next.
@@IzKingFranklinfor anyone watching this, like said on this video, a fuse is optional. If the wire has to run a good distance and could possibly rub on something or possibly burned then a fuse wouldn't be a bad idea. If you ate going to fuse it, make sure you find out what amperage your alternator puts out and use a fuse as close to that amp as possible. You just don't want to put a 200 amp fuse on a 90 amp system as the fuse would never do its job and blow before it causes a fire... Your basically putting in a failsafe of having a short in a wire that's directly on the alternator and worst case causing a electrical fire.
This video was incredibly informative and helped me understand the process of installing a big three car audio wire upgrade. The steps were clearly explained and the demonstration was easy to follow. I appreciated the additional tips provided and will definitely use them in my next installation. Highly recommend! 👍🎶
Great video on upgrading your car audio wiring! I learned a lot about what to look out for when installing a new harness and how to properly connect everything. Thanks for sharing! #caraudio #wireupgrade #DIYproject
why not remove and replace? Why most installers just add new wires to existing, does it have any pros and cons? I mean for clean look and get rid of that those tiny cable ?
Sometimes there are OEM sensors, or factory circuits that pass through the OEM wiring. All depends on your specific vehicle whether you can do that or not. It doesn't hurt anything to add to it, but you could cause issues if you remove the OEM wiring.
Your Honda like mine has the current sensor on the negative terminal. I found that after adding the big 3 to mine the sensor was reading no current draw thus not commanding the alternator to charge fully. I had to disconnect the sensor to get the alternator to charge at full power.
That's exactly what I've been thinking because I did it on my car. I hooked up three grounds to my negative terminal and I was thinking that it's not going to read any current from that week ground going through the sensor. I don't know if this guy realizes that.
Thank you for the video - I have a question - so you added a wire to the alternator to the battery , and you still have the factory wire to the alternator to the battery ????
question i didn’t find in the comments: how would you go about doing the big 3 upgrade on a car with the battery in the trunk? would the charging cable do its job if you simply ran it from the high output alternator to the terminal under the hood or would i need to run the charging cable directly to the battery in the trunk of the car?
What determines what amperage fuse should be used for the run from battery positive to alternator positive? Is it just the output amperage of the alternator?
I would add 40-80 amps from your alternators max amperage. For a 320 I'd get a little under 400 amp fuze. For a 370 maybe a little over 400. For a 240 I'd get a 300amp fuze, etc. You just wanna be sure you don't blow the fuze when your alternator hits it's max rating. And the _rated_ amperage isn't always going to be very precise. A 320amp alt might in reality be able to put out 330 or only 310
@@bailey2517 budget build. 2x 12 audiopipe txx-bdc1's in a sealed box (like the sound better than ported) wired to 1 ohm powered by a skar rp.1200.1d. Very satisfied with it given my budget and therefore power restrictions.
So essentially, say I have an extra 20ft 4 gauge power wire that is not use. Can I just use only that power wire for all 3? Power wire, and 2 grounds? (I think that is what you were talking about when you said that the color doesn’t matter) but just wanted to clarify. Thank you!!
So I was moving my big 3 power wire was hooked up to the alt but I was connecting to the battery and the battery was hooked up and it sparked I had dropped it do you think my alt is fryed
Hi I just watched your stereo installation video for a 99 dodge Dakota. I have the same brand stereo and same wiring harness but I’m not getting any sound for the any of the speakers
If it’s turning on and no sound? Was it getting sound before you switched it to the new radio? Maybe you wired the speakers wrong or maybe you have a shortage somewhere. Can be anything but check your wiring first. Especially if it was working before the radio switch.
My only question is i bought new terminal connect and the battery current sensor on the ground is there a way to bypass that ? Or a way to attach it other than factory ?
I personally just unplugged it on my 2016 CR-V. You shouldn't get a check engine or battery light and your alternator should default to 100% output. Just verify with a multimeter
What inline fuse size would be good for a 120 amp alternator and 1/0 gauge wires for the big 3 upgrade? Or do you also factor in the trunk audio setup?
Can i use like a 15ft ofc 1/0 wire gauge for all 3 and just cut what I need? or the positive and negative have to be different wire, but same size 1/0?
I have a 06 Chevy Malibu 2.2l and will do the Big3 soon as my parts come in anything you recommend. Stock batt all. I'm running Rockville 16Db with two 3k massive audio 10s summo Xl. Light dim sound stops a few seconds. Sick of it lol and with no real video or info it's hard shop's want to much for little work.
What did you end up doing mine is doing the same thing It will sound good for awhile then it will just cut off won't restart until I shut off the entire vehicle and sometimes unplug the sub and re plug
I have a question you know how to do a big 3 on bmw I’m still need in help cause my battery in the back and the alternator in the front not sure if I need a smaller wire to the alternator to the battery I just need help
Longer run generally would require a larger wire when calculating Joule's law. So your alternator to battery in rear, i recommend at least a 4 gauge OFC wire, fused at the battery end.
So you jus add that new big 3 power wire with your existing alt power wire? Didn't know if you upgrade the alt power wire or jus added it along with your existing alt power wire.
Is there such thing as too big a wire? Ie. Running 0 gauge from the alt to the battery. I know your ground should be at least the size of your live but just wondering.
@@ProvoBeastAudioit looks like you ran the ground to the post and bypassed the sensor. I did big grounds to my car and I think that that third ground with the sensor is not going to read any amperage draw. Do you know anything about that? That would make the alternator not work most of the time.
batteries matter, in case its over 1500rms would recommend replacing the factory one with AGM. if you can afford it, go for Lithium ones they're the best
I have a question.. Please guys. I have a 2000 watt Amplifier, and a 12 inch base at 2100 watt And when certain songs come on with a nice big bass.. the bass will loose the bass kick. I have a yellow top battery, will this big 3 help me out? Thanks Everyone
I thought the whole point was to give 3 extra paths directly to the battery the one is just and extra contact point for the factory wire it makes no sense
@Provo Beast Audio Installation yeah it looks like it is, but I have a 2014 accord and the right terminal fits snug right under the OEM wire so its not all stretched out. But still very neat the way you did it. Helped me with mine since I have a Honda as well
I tried this on my 2002 f150 4.2 and when I connected everything back together my fusible link next to the battery started smoking and it blew out, but my vehicle has a solenoid with positives going to + side of battery and + to back of alt and I'm not sure if I was suppose to connect the big 3 positive to there I just went + battery to + alt but I did fuse it which blew that fuse also. Plz anyone's help would be appreciated I don't know what I did wrong.
Yeah, that was your issue. You put a positive to the back of the alternator which the back of the alternator is a ground. There’s only one spot on the alternator that is a positive and that’s the bolt on the top feeding the battery.
Unnecessary, as some vehicles today have more integrated into the OEM wiring than a simple run from the alt to the battery. You can do more damage than you know - just add to it for aid, then remove. Great rule of thumb.
@@ProvoBeastAudio yes on those with negative sense module does a negative need to be ran for 2nd battery or will vehicle ground to frame for 2nd batt be ok? 2018 ecosport
Alternator grounds through the engine block. You can run a ground directly to the alternator case or bracket, but the engine block showed no resistance, hence why we used the factory grounding locations.
You would still need the engine grounded as the alt will still ground through it, at least partially. If you have any flow of voltage through the block it'll go in path of least resistance, usually through the coolant causing electrolysis between various metals and the radiator.
You mean power and ground from alt to battery? That okay, but if you use the vehicle to ground your amplifiers, then you are missing the body ground to the battery which can be an issue (if your engine grounds are small or poor).
Hey I have done the big 3 upgrade on my Camaro. I had to run my alternator wiring from the front to the back since my battery is in the trunk. I have a fusible link in the wire as well. I ran the alternator wire into a distribution block. Should I just run it straight to the battery instead? I’m running a 3000 planet Audio amp.
Before you worry about any of that, you need an amp that actually warrants doing any of it. That amp is fine on factory wiring. It's not actually pulling any real juice.
I hate how he didn't remove all the stuff pack player in placing the small 8 gauge with the 4 gauge and plus it's ofc so it would be able to stare against sweater idahot climax of the engine there's no reason to keep the stock grounds on or the one what goes to your alternator just saying
Most capacitors are filled with sand to make them feel "quality". You will actually do your amplifier good by fixing the actual issue where it starts - at the battery and alternator. I've ripped out more capacitors and completed a wiring upgrade than i can count to truly fix the issue.
Nope, not at all. That whine is called a ground loop noise and is usually generated when you have poor grounds, bad RCA cables, or low quality equipment / wiring.
Parts used and recommended are linked in the description of the video!
Did this fox the customers problem? I have the same exact system and problem 😂
@@Carson316 of course it did silly
Even if you're not doing an audio deployment, the _Big 3_ worth it, at least on the Civic. Honda, like other manufacturers, understand every that every ounce of metal costs money, so they make every wire as short and as thin as they can, and the terminations aren't very well insulated, so, they corrode over time. I did the Big 3 when my Civic was 10, and noticed a substantial difference in the smoothness when coming to idle, and at idle, e.g. coming to a stop. I guess it technically could equate to a restoration of power, for some older models. Thanks for the more detailed video than what was available back in 2018!
That reply helps me a lot, my 9th gen civic is presenting some issues that you mentioned so, hope the big 3 helps.
@@danMVolta If that doesn't fix whatever you're seeing, you might try replacing other ground wires. Something tells me that you have problems with at least the radio.
@@bangdollarsign The thing is lights dim, even turning the steering and using power windows, already check alternator voltage leaks, 0.17 positive and .05 negative with the a/c, lights, radio on . The radio is fine, but IMID screen has shut off.
@@danMVolta ooh, I'm excited for you!
Cool👍🏼i did a big three in my 1965 mustang for my bass box. Emily is all original everything except that. Me and my dad built her when i was12 going on 13 im 41 now and she's still running strong.👍🏼💯💯
thanks for the video. As really your alternator is the "power source" for your car, and keeping the battery charged (the battery helps work as a filter for the power) upgrading to a higher output alternator I think is the best way for supplying power to your car amplifiers. An electrolytic capacitor for you subwoofer amp (seperate amp class D) is also recommended because subs have crazy peak draws of energy, like 60 amps to 160 amps for 1/4 of a second then back to 60 amps. Capacitor helps keep a steady power supply to your sub amp, as well capacitors also work as a filter. Just make sure to not have anything between the capacitor and your amp for the power cable. If you need to run a fuse, do it before the capacitor. Remember, the battery/alternator does not send power to the amps, the amps draws power. That's why things can go bad if not wired right.
Thank you for this video. I finally saw how a profession attacked the connection to the alternator. That part has perplexed me because I did not want to compromise the factory connection.
Great tutorial! I learned how to install a big three car audio wire upgrade easily and effectively. The instructions were clear and concise, and the visuals helped me understand each step better. Highly recommend this video for anyone looking to improve their car's audio system.
My set up is 320 amp alternator, 2 gauge big 3 upgrade adding to existing oem wires, two 1/0 runs from front battery to rear battery, two xs power d3400 batteries, two skar audio skv2 3500.1, two massive audio hippo xl 122r. Probably going to get sundown zv6 or fi audio neo 4.7 subs next.
Always fi audio over sundown.
Nice bro... Do you have a fuse on the cable from your alternator to the battery!???
@@IzKingFranklinfor anyone watching this, like said on this video, a fuse is optional. If the wire has to run a good distance and could possibly rub on something or possibly burned then a fuse wouldn't be a bad idea. If you ate going to fuse it, make sure you find out what amperage your alternator puts out and use a fuse as close to that amp as possible. You just don't want to put a 200 amp fuse on a 90 amp system as the fuse would never do its job and blow before it causes a fire... Your basically putting in a failsafe of having a short in a wire that's directly on the alternator and worst case causing a electrical fire.
This video was incredibly informative and helped me understand the process of installing a big three car audio wire upgrade. The steps were clearly explained and the demonstration was easy to follow. I appreciated the additional tips provided and will definitely use them in my next installation. Highly recommend! 👍🎶
Thank you for the great explanation.
Great video on upgrading your car audio wiring! I learned a lot about what to look out for when installing a new harness and how to properly connect everything. Thanks for sharing! #caraudio #wireupgrade #DIYproject
why not remove and replace? Why most installers just add new wires to existing, does it have any pros and cons? I mean for clean look and get rid of that those tiny cable ?
Sometimes there are OEM sensors, or factory circuits that pass through the OEM wiring. All depends on your specific vehicle whether you can do that or not. It doesn't hurt anything to add to it, but you could cause issues if you remove the OEM wiring.
Your Honda like mine has the current sensor on the negative terminal. I found that after adding the big 3 to mine the sensor was reading no current draw thus not commanding the alternator to charge fully. I had to disconnect the sensor to get the alternator to charge at full power.
That's exactly what I've been thinking because I did it on my car. I hooked up three grounds to my negative terminal and I was thinking that it's not going to read any current from that week ground going through the sensor. I don't know if this guy realizes that.
Can I run another cable from the alternator to the extra battery I have in the trunk?
Thank you for the video - I have a question - so you added a wire to the alternator to the battery , and you still have the factory wire to the alternator to the battery ????
Si
question i didn’t find in the comments:
how would you go about doing the big 3 upgrade on a car with the battery in the trunk? would the charging cable do its job if you simply ran it from the high output alternator to the terminal under the hood or would i need to run the charging cable directly to the battery in the trunk of the car?
Thenk you so much 💓 friends
Links in the descriptions are missing that circular wire brush used on the drill. I have been looking for one but don’t know what it is called.
amzn.to/3inRzQS
Have you done videos on a big 3 wire upgrade on a 2015 Volkswagen Passat.
What determines what amperage fuse should be used for the run from battery positive to alternator positive? Is it just the output amperage of the alternator?
I would add 40-80 amps from your alternators max amperage. For a 320 I'd get a little under 400 amp fuze. For a 370 maybe a little over 400.
For a 240 I'd get a 300amp fuze, etc. You just wanna be sure you don't blow the fuze when your alternator hits it's max rating. And the _rated_ amperage isn't always going to be very precise. A 320amp alt might in reality be able to put out 330 or only 310
@@bailey2517 thanks! that's exactly what I ended up doing so I'm glad to hear it
@@bAc0nBoY755 glad to hear it! Out of curiosity, what's your system like?
@@bailey2517 budget build. 2x 12 audiopipe txx-bdc1's in a sealed box (like the sound better than ported) wired to 1 ohm powered by a skar rp.1200.1d. Very satisfied with it given my budget and therefore power restrictions.
@@bAc0nBoY755 nice!
Do you have to do big 3 wiring upgrades all at once or can I upgrade the power wire from alternator to the battery and add the ground wires later?
You theoretically could, but it’s not a good idea to EVER have power and ground wire that can’t flow the same current
id upgrade the ground wires first, power wire last
Great video 🤝🏾
Can i do this on my Mazda B3 hatchback 1.3
So essentially, say I have an extra 20ft 4 gauge power wire that is not use. Can I just use only that power wire for all 3? Power wire, and 2 grounds? (I think that is what you were talking about when you said that the color doesn’t matter) but just wanted to clarify. Thank you!!
Yea it’s just wire
So I was moving my big 3 power wire was hooked up to the alt but I was connecting to the battery and the battery was hooked up and it sparked I had dropped it do you think my alt is fryed
@@jonathanmartinez1865 nah bro it should be fine put it one there if it don’t work well there’s ur Answear but it should
Fire waiting to happen
What’s the point of that ground cable? It’s not even connected to the alternator is it?
Hi I just watched your stereo installation video for a 99 dodge Dakota. I have the same brand stereo and same wiring harness but I’m not getting any sound for the any of the speakers
If it’s turning on and no sound? Was it getting sound before you switched it to the new radio? Maybe you wired the speakers wrong or maybe you have a shortage somewhere. Can be anything but check your wiring first. Especially if it was working before the radio switch.
No fuse on the alternator to battery wire?
Most big 3 kits omit the fuse. When i doubt, always fuse!
My only question is i bought new terminal connect and the battery current sensor on the ground is there a way to bypass that ? Or a way to attach it other than factory ?
I personally just unplugged it on my 2016 CR-V. You shouldn't get a check engine or battery light and your alternator should default to 100% output. Just verify with a multimeter
What inline fuse size would be good for a 120 amp alternator and 1/0 gauge wires for the big 3 upgrade? Or do you also factor in the trunk audio setup?
I used a 250 for big 3 and a 300 for my sound system
Ugh I just want to sell my car already the head unit was a nightmare to install the alternator is under the motor and it's a pain to run any wire
Does this make your headlight’s brighter?
Can i use like a 15ft ofc 1/0 wire gauge for all 3 and just cut what I need? or the positive and negative have to be different wire, but same size 1/0?
sure, just keep it all the same size, and OFC for current delivery.
Dumb question but can I use the power wire from amp wiring kit it's zero gauge as the big 3
Where are you located? Anywhere in Philadelphia? I rather pay to get this done.
Utah!
@@ProvoBeastAudio dam
I have a 06 Chevy Malibu 2.2l and will do the Big3 soon as my parts come in anything you recommend. Stock batt all. I'm running Rockville 16Db with two 3k massive audio 10s summo Xl. Light dim sound stops a few seconds. Sick of it lol and with no real video or info it's hard shop's want to much for little work.
Anyway update, I added the Big3 no big discount so up is next a battery upgrade
What did you end up doing mine is doing the same thing It will sound good for awhile then it will just cut off won't restart until I shut off the entire vehicle and sometimes unplug the sub and re plug
I have a question you know how to do a big 3 on bmw I’m still need in help cause my battery in the back and the alternator in the front not sure if I need a smaller wire to the alternator to the battery I just need help
Longer run generally would require a larger wire when calculating Joule's law. So your alternator to battery in rear, i recommend at least a 4 gauge OFC wire, fused at the battery end.
good video, thanks.
how do you get to the screw on the block behind the alternator? I cant get my socket in there, OR in the one from the block to the frame
I know this is a year later but get some angled wrench heads for your socket set. It’s great for a lot of jobs.
No fuse = fire 🔥
Fuse to what
Wrong!
I have a 04 dodge stratus 2.4 my lights dim when the bass hits how to solve issue
So you jus add that new big 3 power wire with your existing alt power wire? Didn't know if you upgrade the alt power wire or jus added it along with your existing alt power wire.
You leave your original wire and add the "big 3" over them. do not remove any wires.
Thanks 🙏. I Ned to due this yuo the best
Is there such thing as too big a wire? Ie. Running 0 gauge from the alt to the battery.
I know your ground should be at least the size of your live but just wondering.
No, the bigger the wire the less resistance, there's no down side
4 gauge is more than enough for 2000rms, for more go for 2 or 0 gauge wires
@@xXHellFighter13Xxdistance is also short hence requires lesser area no need for 00 or 0 gauge wires.
Would I need this with a single skar 8’ 400 rms and skar 500rms amp with a 110 alternator
It's always beneficial, but for only 500w RMS, probably not (as long as you have a healthy battery).
Mine has ground sensor. Adding 2nd battery or ground wouldn't that bypass that?
Not necessarily, if you run that ground through the censor loop, it will provide better accurate info to the ECM for charging.
@@ProvoBeastAudio so I should be an additional 0 Guage negative and tie it before the sensor as that goes then to the frame
@@ProvoBeastAudioit looks like you ran the ground to the post and bypassed the sensor. I did big grounds to my car and I think that that third ground with the sensor is not going to read any amperage draw. Do you know anything about that? That would make the alternator not work most of the time.
I have Hyundai KONA 2.0 - 2019 model, if i upgrade to BIG 3 and add one AGM battery its okay?
the kind of battery doesnt matter as long as it can handle your set up
batteries matter, in case its over 1500rms would recommend replacing the factory one with AGM. if you can afford it, go for Lithium ones they're the best
I have a question.. Please guys.
I have a 2000 watt Amplifier, and a 12 inch base at 2100 watt And when certain songs come on with a nice big bass.. the bass will loose the bass kick. I have a yellow top battery, will this big 3 help me out?
Thanks Everyone
Yes but you'll prob end up needing a high output alternator
Can i use welding wire?
I mean yeah alot of people use 0/1 gauge welding wire for their amps
I thought the whole point was to give 3 extra paths directly to the battery the one is just and extra contact point for the factory wire it makes no sense
Should've just put the new power wire under the OEM one. Then you would've still been able to put the boot over 😊
The boot cover fit on just fine.
@Provo Beast Audio Installation yeah it looks like it is, but I have a 2014 accord and the right terminal fits snug right under the OEM wire so its not all stretched out. But still very neat the way you did it. Helped me with mine since I have a Honda as well
I tried this on my 2002 f150 4.2 and when I connected everything back together my fusible link next to the battery started smoking and it blew out, but my vehicle has a solenoid with positives going to + side of battery and + to back of alt and I'm not sure if I was suppose to connect the big 3 positive to there I just went + battery to + alt but I did fuse it which blew that fuse also. Plz anyone's help would be appreciated I don't know what I did wrong.
Yeah, that was your issue. You put a positive to the back of the alternator which the back of the alternator is a ground. There’s only one spot on the alternator that is a positive and that’s the bolt on the top feeding the battery.
Looks like the second wire u did was from the body to the body … confusing
Always removed old thanks for that tip as well
Unnecessary, as some vehicles today have more integrated into the OEM wiring than a simple run from the alt to the battery. You can do more damage than you know - just add to it for aid, then remove. Great rule of thumb.
@@ProvoBeastAudio yes on those with negative sense module does a negative need to be ran for 2nd battery or will vehicle ground to frame for 2nd batt be ok? 2018 ecosport
what does the engine ground do?? i have just 0ga running from my alt to my battery and a 0ga ground from the battery to frame
I did the same as you did... I didnt do the engine ground but wonder if that would really help
An alternator is case grounded so it is grounded to the engine and then the engine is grounded to the frame.
I would add the engine ground because you want your alt to produce the most amount of power possible and a better ground would really help.
@@h-townstros9018 it completely fixed my issue it kept overcharging every so often and it hasn’t done it at all since i’ve done it
No ground to alternator ???
Alternator grounds through the engine block. You can run a ground directly to the alternator case or bracket, but the engine block showed no resistance, hence why we used the factory grounding locations.
@@ProvoBeastAudio Thank you.
Why doesn't anyone ground the alternator
Some do. I was wondering why he didnt.
The alternator is grounded through the engine.
@@AmericanAristo If the engine has a good ground to the battery.
You would still need the engine grounded as the alt will still ground through it, at least partially. If you have any flow of voltage through the block it'll go in path of least resistance, usually through the coolant causing electrolysis between various metals and the radiator.
@@chriscoralAloha True. Wouldnt hurt to give it its own ground anyway.
SO MANY people getting this wrong but I’m not commenting on them all 😂
This is not the “Big 3”. The big 3 is:
1) Wiring.
2) Battery.
3) Alternator.
What happens if you only do a big 2 upgrade? 2/0 from battery to alt and 2/0 from battery to chassis?
You mean power and ground from alt to battery? That okay, but if you use the vehicle to ground your amplifiers, then you are missing the body ground to the battery which can be an issue (if your engine grounds are small or poor).
@@ProvoBeastAudio Thank you for replying! That last Paul supposed to be from the negative battery post to the chassis. I don't have a as of yet.
Hey I have done the big 3 upgrade on my Camaro. I had to run my alternator wiring from the front to the back since my battery is in the trunk. I have a fusible link in the wire as well. I ran the alternator wire into a distribution block. Should I just run it straight to the battery instead? I’m running a 3000 planet Audio amp.
Before you worry about any of that, you need an amp that actually warrants doing any of it. That amp is fine on factory wiring. It's not actually pulling any real juice.
@@BLITZSPEIGS so are you saying I need a better amplifier?
@@justinthornton6735 I would say that if you need an excuse to upgrade 😂😂
I hate how he didn't remove all the stuff pack player in placing the small 8 gauge with the 4 gauge and plus it's ofc so it would be able to stare against sweater idahot climax of the engine there's no reason to keep the stock grounds on or the one what goes to your alternator just saying
That’s where a capacitor comes in to prevent dimming lights.
Most capacitors are filled with sand to make them feel "quality". You will actually do your amplifier good by fixing the actual issue where it starts - at the battery and alternator. I've ripped out more capacitors and completed a wiring upgrade than i can count to truly fix the issue.
Any way to talk through email? Or text
You can send us a message on facebook!
@@ProvoBeastAudiohow come you add and not replace?
Hi will this help with engine noise that annoying whine with the alternator?
Nope, not at all. That whine is called a ground loop noise and is usually generated when you have poor grounds, bad RCA cables, or low quality equipment / wiring.