You guys asked for it...So here it is, Enjoy! If you missed the amp rack wiring video check it out here: ruclips.net/video/UMAXMWmYX3o/видео.html Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between a built-in virtual dsp over a physical dsp? I ask because some head units will come with a dsp built in. It may be included to make head units more attractive to consumers, but is there drawbacks? How versatile is a built-in dsp compared to a dsp from AudioControl?
Hi Mark. I have to note to the relays diode. While a regular diode will do the job you have a high voltage drop by using one. Best is to use a zener diode. They have a lower voltage drop while having the same results. Zener diodes are more efficient than regular diodes.
Hey Mark! Once again you have nailed it with a plethora of information and ideas. One thing I, as well as others who have seen this video would love to know, is where can we get the same exact relay w/ suppression diode built in that you used? I seem to be having a hard time finding one....and that is the last item I need to complete my build. I'm trying to get this all completed by Xmas, so hopefully you can let us know to make Xmas miracles come true. Thanks again for spreading your wisdom to the masses!!
@caraudiofabrication Yes, Mark, please let us know where you found those relays. I’m getting my system pieced together, and it would be extremely helpful.
As others have asked, how do we find the correct relay with the “spike/flyback” diode built in? Google-fu is failing to provide answers. I appreciate the videos, but it would be greatly helpful if you provided links to all parts you use when introducing something like this.
@@anicetomaldonado I have not thought of relays for my amp systems, but I've been using relays for decades for lights, accessories, even making up my own turn signal converter for when the vehicle has amber turn signals and the trailer lamp is combined.
hi mark, with the relay wire i unpinned it and used new Female Spade Terminals with Locking Tab, crimped new wire cut to length. The way i remember what wire go's where on a relay is the compass method, looking at the relay pins the vertical pin at the top 87 north N=( new device), 85 east E= ( earth) 86 west W= (sWicth 12v), and 30 south= (solid 12v)
I got out of the car audio game for a while just because of unexpected challenges in life but now I'm back and realizing that I've missed out on so much in the past 7 years. Thank you so much for creating this channel and helping me get my spark and my enthusiasm about how awesome this stuff is back. I've used your videos religiously to create the system of my dreams and I can't thank you enough. Keep building ✌️
Think you've missed a bunch? My last install, including all three amps and EQ was done 20 years ago. And the equipment was from the late 80's. Sub amp finally lost a channel, thus the learning curve. Enjoying the heck out of it, but at almost 67, some of the work is not going to be easy!!!!🤔
I would recommend always making a habit of putting your switched load on pole 30 rather than 87. For a SPST, it makes no difference but if a SPDT is used it does. If the 12v source is hooked to pole 30, then the wire attached to pole 87a will be energized when the coil is at rest. While that wire can be left unhooked, it is a potential short since you have 12 volts running through the relay all the time. If you hook pole 87 to your 12 volt source, then you can hook 87a to ground. This will ground the load circuit on pole 30 when the relay is at rest. Once energized, pole 30 will see 12 volts as needed then return to ground once the relay is no longer energized. The difference is only whether you have a loose hot wire all the time on the switched side of the relay, or not. As I said, for a SPST, it makes no difference. But if you just get into the habit of always putting the switched load on pole 30, then interchanging between a SPST and an SPDT an almost non issue.
It's important to have good habits like this. There are too many "good enough" methods, and many are not actually good at all and result in car fires, failed equipment, poor sound, and many other faults and failures. Good job taking a moment to share, we need more of this.
This is a joke right? If you ground 87a and have 12v on 30 then in an off state the relay is shorting 12v lol. Unless you're talking about setting up the relay so that 87 is 12v and you ground 87a. Why would it be beneficial to ground a power wire at rest lol? I've been in car audio/aftermarket electronics for 5 years and I would never go through the effort of doing anything you just mentioned. If I'm not using 87a it's getting depinned, or cut short and taped with another wire on the relay with fabric tape on top making it all pretty.
@@johncox6666 pole 30 goes to the amp, 87 goes to 12v source. Grounding 87a just guarantees that there is no voltage on the circuit when not needed or wanted. You can just pull the wire or cut it short, but why not use it and ground the circuit if you have it. When using the ground at rest the circuit is dead-dead and there is zero chance of any stray voltage activating anything on that line. Dad was an electrical engineer, so i picked up a few things from him that come from that background. These are things he did as best practices, and generally apply to most applications even if not absolutely necessary. This is exactly how the electric choke on my old truck is wired. Just ground the circuit when not in use - No need not to.
@@mebordernoneya8484 its just time consuming and unnecessary imo. What's on the other side of the load? Ground. Which do you think provides better ground potential for current to flow? Backwards or forwards? If the engineers that made the product had any sense then power won't even be able to backfeed out the supply line even if the product does store power either with a battery, capacitors, etc. Maybe this logic made sense 30+ years ago but it doesn't now. Circuits can be made in a way that if they are storing power it's not flowing back out it's power input anyway so you applying ground is doing nothing. It's like when they say to battery reset your vehicle by pulling power and shorting the terminals together. Say it with me SoLiD STaTe MemOrY! Not gonna clear your codes lol. Not trying to hate, you do you. It's just the amount of times I've run into a permenant habit built upon one situation boggles my mind. Technician states they had one issue with x behavior of electricity so then going forward whenever they do that job again they jump through ten hoops to prevent one potential issue. When in reality that issue was either a complete fluke or they came to an incorrect conclusion but still worked around the problem and once again it is situational to that scenario. Be informed, fuse your shit, and know how to use your meter and everything's gonna be gravy baby.
Where can I find the relay with the diode built-in or where can I find the correct diode for that matter? It seems everyone is asking this same question, but no answer is provided.
Yo Mark i think it's awesome you're doing this project. It's funny, I'm doing a similar system in my Ram truck with 3 amps and 1 sub, mids/highs so these videos have been great, and very convenient timing as well😂😂especially coming from one of, if not, the best car audio channel on RUclips.
Now I don't disbelieve what you are saying, because I know current diminishes with more things needing that current. But why am I able to power, or I should say turn on 5 amps and a dsp off of my headunit? Does the headunit matter? It's a pioneer AVH-2300NEX
Don't take offense to this but you are completely missing the point of this video. I'm not just turning on amps. I fully understand the turn on circuit for most amplifiers requires very little current. Watch the video again for my explanation of what this circuit IS for.
That explanation was brilliant. I’m an electrician by trade but am here because my son and I are building an audio system for his car and we wanted to add LED lights. Thank you for breaking all of it down.
Hey great video but I have a serious question. In South Africa 6x9's are in every vehicle here. How can I tell if a 6x9 is really good quality vs a poor quality set. I know price plays a huge role but is price the only indicator of good quality.
The relay sockets are only good for certain applications. A spade connector is a much better way to install a relay with no breaks. The pre-wired socket has to have connections made to it. The spade connector wired to relay is direct, no breaks, no solder, no heatshrink, etc.
I am currently using a relay because I'm running three amps, LED rings, and a crossover.....and I fried the remote output circuit on my first head unit before I thought about adding the relay. But even after adding the relay I still didn't think about adding the diode until I watched this. Thanks for the advice.
Years ago a shop had told me that a remote lead was only ment to turn on 1 device any more then that you needed a relay. I know you're running alot of extras but at what point do you suggest a relay? # of amps or what not
When the needed current will exceed the rating of the head unit. Usually not needed for today's multiple amplifiers, but obviously in this video the circuit is for much more than that.
Great topics covered and the Crutchfield service is the best I have seen. Shame we don't have similar in Australia for our vehicle models! " I can't find anything", trying to pick my own setup online is challenging. Has been many years since I delved into car audio and it has progressed so much. Your builds are first class and has my mind racing for my own setup in my 2018 Isuzu MU-X "not even in the US that I can see" will keep following along, I have done a few upgrades in the past "did I say "many years" really is a couple of decades "what a thought"! Thanks for all the info.
Been using relays since frying two decks in the late 80s. Newer equipment can draw less current than old school, but I still use them for future accessories as mentioned in this video.
What if, I am using a stock factory radio and I have already tapped into it for the LOC? Do I just re tap into the remote wire from the LC5i Pro ? Can you please further explain this? Thanks ! Love the videos!!!
Hi , very nice video. I Have a stereo that uses amplifiers . My remote wire from the stereo is not working (stays on always). Can I try to use the Switched Connection to power the amplifiers ? I can put a relay in this case.... 😄
But how do I control each accessory with one relay. Is one relay used for multiple accessories, or multiple relays. For example: let say I have horns that gets switch from train horns and oem horn. And I have lights as well. Do I only use one relay to control both things?
Ok so sum one help me..i added better grounds to my system and a taramp eq and now when i turn my system off it makes a loud pop noise when it didnt before..when i turn my radio off first it doesn't do it if that helps...can some one plz hepl me
your hook up explanation at the end is unclear of what you mentioned earlier about using a diode. It's not how you explained the wires and what pins to use.
Are you using screws to build the boxes, or just the nail gun and glue? Of all the videos of box building I haven't seen predrilling holes and using screws. Maybe do a video of hand tools, such as nail gun and what size nails, also specific wood glues, how long they take to cure, ect.. You may already have some, you just have plethora of videos, and I haven't found those specifics. Awesome channel, you've done well with your business and RUclips.
Mark, would you be able to do a video regarding the "capacitor" installment between the main battery and amps? Is "capacitor" use on car audio system out of date? My car vehicle alternator is weak to charge the battery. I have 2004 STI (stock) with aftermarket amps. thanks.
Sounds like you need a new and/or larger alternator. Just my 2 cents. If it is outputting properly yet not charging the battery, you are drawing too much for it's capacity (Assuming a healthy battery anyway.). A capacitor won't help with that. Caps are made to help smooth out and support when the bass really hits. Another thing it could depend on is if things are wired properly. If your vehicle uses a battery current sensor to tell the computer your electrical load then commands the alternator based on that, it can cause issues if the sensor is bypassed. It will always command the alternator to output less than needed causing it to always be stressed. Anyone feel free to add/correct me if I'm wrong.
@@caddyguy5369 Thank you so much for the information. The issue is that my subaru mechanics do not recommend replacing an aftermarket alternator for my vehicle because they are unreliable. It seems there are no reputable larger aftermarket alternators in current market for my STI.
Bruhhh have you taken the time to measure the current draw from each device??? Each amplifier only requires 10mA (0.01a) meaning you can actually power up more than 10 devices without issues. The relay is a mechanical device, which requires 100mA just to power the magnetic field in the relay.
I still get sad at night many years later having to sell off my JL-500.1 monoblock amp. Old school. Bridgeable down to 1/2 ohm stable running 2 HCCA duel Voice Coil subs in my hatchback. Got to love how priorities change however my child is old enough now and is gonna be in her teens soon so gonna get back into adding a system in my project car which stock came with 2 component sets already which will sound even better once I upgrade them and amplify. However as I want 2 keep the weight down I'm only gonna add a really nice hard hitting 12 so supplement overall quality of sound. Should be good for music as well as playing DVDs. Jurassic Park would certainly be sick to watch in a vehicle...
I know this is old and apm's is a measure of current, but I think it's easier to explain by using the amp instead. Many wires are rated by amps. That said your remote wire is around 3-5 amps. Closer to 3 if your routing to the trunk. So in fact a relay is amazing idea if you don't want a switch or as mentioned fans and other stuff. I generally always trigger a relay if I have more than one "thing". Example is a single amp for a sub/box I won't but anything more then that where I use a amp rack I definitely always use a relay and fuse box also. Some of those fans can take 5-10 amps surge to get them going.
Hey hopefully someone here can help me. I’m currently upgrading my 15 Corolla however I’m not exactly clear on how to hook up (wire) my front door speakers with my tweeters. My new hertz’s door speakers and tweeters COMBINED are 75 WATT RMS at 4 ohm. My amp will provide the 75watt rms needed. My question is with the tweeters. Since the tweeters have a built in crossover do I just take the negative from both speaker (tweeter and door speaker) and like wise with the positive with both speakers twist them together n+n and p+p and connect them to the speaker wire from the amp ( obviously all negative wires connected and positive to positive wires) am I missing something? Am I over thinking it? I am planning on soldering the wires together. I’ve done subwoofers just never two different types of speakers to one channel on a amp.
Hi!.. im looking for ideas on installing 3 amplifiers on the center of my SUVs roof.. over head along the center roof line but covered by covers. Can to send any actual ideas on even starting this project thanks.
Hey Mark, Thank you for all your tutorials. You have inspired me to build this. so, I have a question. I am using a A2b for my 2018 ford raptor and will this be a lil different or would I take the factory remote turn on and take to the relay? Yes sir, I am over my head in this. but, I have always been interested in this kind of work. Also I am building your subwoofer box, using same subwoofers, same sub amp. also I am doing the door speakers. should I have a crossover or will my audiocontrol 810 been surfice? Again thank you so much for your tutorials
This question has nothing to do with the video but do you or anyone else know what my options are for upgrading my so called PREMIUM AUDIO SYSTEM in my 2021 honda accord EX-L hydrid from what I’ve learned it’s a little tricky cause it’s a hybrid vehicle bottom line the factory premium system sounds horrible and I would like to replace the speakers in the door and rear deck and possibly the subwoofer if that possible maybe use the factory amp for the mids and use after market amp the the sub please let me know I really want to get it done but have very little knowledge in this department I tried chatting with crutchfield but they don’t really have the answer I want to know exactly what to do
Hey Mark, quick question. At 11 minutes when u talk about the white wire, could I run that white wire to my L.O.C. remote that is triggered from my speakers receiving power, GTO tech. (LC7i)? I have a factory head unit
I just replaced my head unit . From older eclipse to a new Kenwood. After the swap now it pops when it turns on and at idle my subs have a rumble . Little rpm everything is smooth . 370 alternator . I have a relay in line . It didn't do this before I changed the head unit . I really don't want to go back to old deck . I like the newer one . All the new functions are nice . Any ideas . Probably not best description but hoping
Apparently my new Kia Niro is too new for Crutchfield since their search engine says haven’t got anything on my vehicle yet! That’s a real bummer! Hopefully they will get more on my new car soon?
1:48 I am surprised you anchored the top ground wire to the bottom power wire right before they go to fuse block bcuz it pulled the ground up too high making it not look like typical CAF quality. Looks like the ground wire would first need to be shortened by an inch. Then drill zip tie hole to secure it to amp rack right before fuse block. I know you know what I'm talking about. Regardless, I'm impressed as always! Very grateful for your YT channel! Wish my filming & editing skills were up to your quality. Oh and my build skills as well! LoL
Could I safely add a high capacity relay between my amps and battery? My vehicle can sit for 3 months at a time, and I've had problems with the amp capacitors draining the battery. I know I could install a disconnect, but I'd like convenience.
I’m trying to dive in to designing my own, auto system, with after make stereo and 3x10 subs, 4x tweeters, the front and rear speakers, and there also a center front speaker, question is how many amps do I need, and how would I wire everything exactly?
So much info for a newbie lol so here is my dumb question... I have two amps and from what I understand is that I don't need a relay for this, however I was told if you splice your remote wire and connect it to both amps then one amp will stay on when the other turns off. Anyone wanna help this DA Newbie out??
Hi Mark. Why are DSP's power+rem cables are twisted? Does it really help with noise cancellation? Does it ok to connect RCA near power lines like yours? Thanks.
Can u tell me if I have mine wired fine so I don’t gotta worry about a relay going bad and then having to carry relays in my glove box to I have my remote from radio to dsp then from dsp it goes to 2 amps about to be 3 will I still be fine with I’m using 14 gauge to
Where are you getting the relay with fuse and diode from? I can't find one, but have one without the diode in my near future orders for an update install. Or what value diode would I get to add to the existing wires of the relay socket? Thanks! Enjoying your videos!!!!
Great insight as always. Would you add a link for the relay with diode you mentioned you ordered. Or provide a link to the diode you would of used for that specific relay in the video, since i was able to track it down on amazon.
there is another RUclips video that illustrates with specs that the relay requires more power from the head unit to power up than 8 amplifiers requires from the head unit to power up.
How about just isolating a custom sound system independent from the vehicle system and setting up a switch to either engage or disengage the two systems from the speakers
Im doing something similar, but a bit overkill, my system is basic, 4 6.5s on a 4 channel amp and a single 10 on a monoblock, also a half din EQ, a 3 way active crossover and a bass distrubution processor. So im getting relays that delay on and or off, im building a 8 channel with digital countdown for each channel, it will allow power down in sequence. I have most of it working, still need a few things but want to pick up a few more timers to see if i can add a turn on sequence as well as off sequence, i have it 1.2 secs between each delay.
Hey mark I have a question I install an audio system in my truck & there’s motor noise in the speakers & some guy from d tronics told me it was because I had all my wires together , is that true
I did this on my truck. Running a RF 400.4 and a RF 1200.1 with crossover network. The relay is triggered by the remote turn on and goes to the amps and xover. It also goes to a 100A continuous duty solenoid for ignition hot 6 way power/ground block for other items and another 6 way power/ground block for constant hot items. Works like a champ!
You guys asked for it...So here it is, Enjoy! If you missed the amp rack wiring video check it out here: ruclips.net/video/UMAXMWmYX3o/видео.html Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between a built-in virtual dsp over a physical dsp? I ask because some head units will come with a dsp built in. It may be included to make head units more attractive to consumers, but is there drawbacks? How versatile is a built-in dsp compared to a dsp from AudioControl?
All this power will u need a extra battery
Hi Mark. I have to note to the relays diode. While a regular diode will do the job you have a high voltage drop by using one. Best is to use a zener diode. They have a lower voltage drop while having the same results. Zener diodes are more efficient than regular diodes.
Hello Mark,
Love what you do with your installs.
Just wondering would you custom build a box for a 10" JL Sub that would fit a VW Golf?
Thank you.
Where’s the rest of the build?
I've been using those very fused relays. They've been working great and barely get warm. This is the content I enjoy
Where do I get those relay?
Hey Mark! Once again you have nailed it with a plethora of information and ideas. One thing I, as well as others who have seen this video would love to know, is where can we get the same exact relay w/ suppression diode built in that you used? I seem to be having a hard time finding one....and that is the last item I need to complete my build. I'm trying to get this all completed by Xmas, so hopefully you can let us know to make Xmas miracles come true. Thanks again for spreading your wisdom to the masses!!
@caraudiofabrication Yes, Mark, please let us know where you found those relays. I’m getting my system pieced together, and it would be extremely helpful.
same issue
cant find it with built in diode
As others have asked, how do we find the correct relay with the “spike/flyback” diode built in? Google-fu is failing to provide answers. I appreciate the videos, but it would be greatly helpful if you provided links to all parts you use when introducing something like this.
The relay idea is one of those "Why didn't I think of that" things that is so simple yet so elusive.
I've been using relays for about twenty years.
They are great for light bars, LEDs, amp fans, all kinds of things
@@anicetomaldonado I have not thought of relays for my amp systems, but I've been using relays for decades for lights, accessories, even making up my own turn signal converter for when the vehicle has amber turn signals and the trailer lamp is combined.
@@robertemmons2260 yeah, I don't use them for amps, rather the external fans one adds to an amp rack. I even used to have a 12 volt coffee maker.
@@anicetomaldonado where do I get that type of relays from
Thanks Mark for 'relaying' that information!!👍🏻
😄👍 dad jokes in the house
Do you have a link for the relay that you purchased with the diode built in?
Did you ever get an answer to this?
@@ElevatedVehicles If you haven't gotten your answer...look up Picker relays. Specifically this part number: PC775-1A-12C-D-X. Hope this helps👍🏼
Still waiting
Not the greatest having to buy 8 as a diy guy but I'm sure it won't be impossible to flip the other 7.
Have 6 left after the install.... mistakes were made. 😂
hi mark, with the relay wire i unpinned it and used new Female Spade Terminals with Locking Tab, crimped new wire cut to length. The way i remember what wire go's where on a relay is the compass method, looking at the relay pins the vertical pin at the top 87 north N=( new device), 85 east E= ( earth) 86 west W= (sWicth 12v), and 30 south= (solid 12v)
So i have 2 questions
1. Where can i find said special relay??
2. What size fuse would you recommend for continuing the remote wire
I got out of the car audio game for a while just because of unexpected challenges in life but now I'm back and realizing that I've missed out on so much in the past 7 years. Thank you so much for creating this channel and helping me get my spark and my enthusiasm about how awesome this stuff is back. I've used your videos religiously to create the system of my dreams and I can't thank you enough. Keep building ✌️
Think you've missed a bunch? My last install, including all three amps and EQ was done 20 years ago. And the equipment was from the late 80's. Sub amp finally lost a channel, thus the learning curve. Enjoying the heck out of it, but at almost 67, some of the work is not going to be easy!!!!🤔
Please link the fuse with
Diode you ordered. Having a hard time finding it
Links to the relays with diode protection?
What distribution block is that?
Please post link with the relay that has the diode already in it
Did you post the part # for the relay you ordered with the internal diode? Having trouble finding one for my build. Thanks
It's listed on the relay in the video as well as company name.
Should I buy a DSP if I am using a non-stock head unit?
What size diode shod be used on 30A-40A four pin relay and socket??.
I would recommend always making a habit of putting your switched load on pole 30 rather than 87. For a SPST, it makes no difference but if a SPDT is used it does. If the 12v source is hooked to pole 30, then the wire attached to pole 87a will be energized when the coil is at rest. While that wire can be left unhooked, it is a potential short since you have 12 volts running through the relay all the time.
If you hook pole 87 to your 12 volt source, then you can hook 87a to ground. This will ground the load circuit on pole 30 when the relay is at rest. Once energized, pole 30 will see 12 volts as needed then return to ground once the relay is no longer energized. The difference is only whether you have a loose hot wire all the time on the switched side of the relay, or not.
As I said, for a SPST, it makes no difference. But if you just get into the habit of always putting the switched load on pole 30, then interchanging between a SPST and an SPDT an almost non issue.
It's important to have good habits like this. There are too many "good enough" methods, and many are not actually good at all and result in car fires, failed equipment, poor sound, and many other faults and failures. Good job taking a moment to share, we need more of this.
This is a joke right? If you ground 87a and have 12v on 30 then in an off state the relay is shorting 12v lol. Unless you're talking about setting up the relay so that 87 is 12v and you ground 87a. Why would it be beneficial to ground a power wire at rest lol? I've been in car audio/aftermarket electronics for 5 years and I would never go through the effort of doing anything you just mentioned. If I'm not using 87a it's getting depinned, or cut short and taped with another wire on the relay with fabric tape on top making it all pretty.
@@johncox6666 pole 30 goes to the amp, 87 goes to 12v source. Grounding 87a just guarantees that there is no voltage on the circuit when not needed or wanted.
You can just pull the wire or cut it short, but why not use it and ground the circuit if you have it. When using the ground at rest the circuit is dead-dead and there is zero chance of any stray voltage activating anything on that line.
Dad was an electrical engineer, so i picked up a few things from him that come from that background. These are things he did as best practices, and generally apply to most applications even if not absolutely necessary.
This is exactly how the electric choke on my old truck is wired. Just ground the circuit when not in use - No need not to.
Can you make a video on this?
@@mebordernoneya8484 its just time consuming and unnecessary imo. What's on the other side of the load? Ground. Which do you think provides better ground potential for current to flow? Backwards or forwards? If the engineers that made the product had any sense then power won't even be able to backfeed out the supply line even if the product does store power either with a battery, capacitors, etc. Maybe this logic made sense 30+ years ago but it doesn't now. Circuits can be made in a way that if they are storing power it's not flowing back out it's power input anyway so you applying ground is doing nothing. It's like when they say to battery reset your vehicle by pulling power and shorting the terminals together. Say it with me SoLiD STaTe MemOrY! Not gonna clear your codes lol.
Not trying to hate, you do you. It's just the amount of times I've run into a permenant habit built upon one situation boggles my mind. Technician states they had one issue with x behavior of electricity so then going forward whenever they do that job again they jump through ten hoops to prevent one potential issue. When in reality that issue was either a complete fluke or they came to an incorrect conclusion but still worked around the problem and once again it is situational to that scenario. Be informed, fuse your shit, and know how to use your meter and everything's gonna be gravy baby.
do you have a link for your fuse blocks
Anyone have a like with a relay with a diode built in?
Great video as always, could you provide a link to the relays you keep on hand?
Where can I find the relay with the diode built-in or where can I find the correct diode for that matter? It seems everyone is asking this same question, but no answer is provided.
I love this! This is all very useful information. Can we have the links to the parts used? That would be awesome!
Yo Mark i think it's awesome you're doing this project. It's funny, I'm doing a similar system in my Ram truck with 3 amps and 1 sub, mids/highs so these videos have been great, and very convenient timing as well😂😂especially coming from one of, if not, the best car audio channel on RUclips.
Please give use the link to the spst with diode you will use
Now I don't disbelieve what you are saying, because I know current diminishes with more things needing that current. But why am I able to power, or I should say turn on 5 amps and a dsp off of my headunit?
Does the headunit matter? It's a pioneer AVH-2300NEX
Don't take offense to this but you are completely missing the point of this video. I'm not just turning on amps. I fully understand the turn on circuit for most amplifiers requires very little current. Watch the video again for my explanation of what this circuit IS for.
Dude, you’re friggin awesome. I continue to learn so much from you. Thank you for creating great content and educating us. 💪🏽
What is the diode size we need to make it ourselves
Any links for a relay with a diode?
Well and my Radio-Remote ist even strong enough to power a relay 😂
Did you ever say which relay you went with that had the built-in diode?
@caraudiofabrication what distribution blocks are you using?
+1 on wanting the diode info.. I'll keep researching..
Sir, you did not mention the diode number you suggested for the EMF, please advise?
Can u lost where to find that fused terminal strip block that you ran this relay along with?
Hey, could you post a link for the fused distribution block (the one that the relay is connected to)
Hey mark! Can we get a link for the relay with built in flyback diode (spike suppression diode/ freewheel diode) cant find them anywhere!
Whats diode number?
That explanation was brilliant. I’m an electrician by trade but am here because my son and I are building an audio system for his car and we wanted to add LED lights. Thank you for breaking all of it down.
Hey great video but I have a serious question. In South Africa 6x9's are in every vehicle here. How can I tell if a 6x9 is really good quality vs a poor quality set. I know price plays a huge role but is price the only indicator of good quality.
The relay sockets are only good for certain applications. A spade connector is a much better way to install a relay with no breaks. The pre-wired socket has to have connections made to it. The spade connector wired to relay is direct, no breaks, no solder, no heatshrink, etc.
I am currently using a relay because I'm running three amps, LED rings, and a crossover.....and I fried the remote output circuit on my first head unit before I thought about adding the relay. But even after adding the relay I still didn't think about adding the diode until I watched this. Thanks for the advice.
I knew crutchfield had wiring diagrams but didn't know about looking up vehicle specific installation instructions
Are there SPST relays with both the fuse and diode? I'm not seeing any.
Years ago a shop had told me that a remote lead was only ment to turn on 1 device any more then that you needed a relay. I know you're running alot of extras but at what point do you suggest a relay? # of amps or what not
any more than two amps running off a remote line and you need a new source to tap for power
When the needed current will exceed the rating of the head unit. Usually not needed for today's multiple amplifiers, but obviously in this video the circuit is for much more than that.
Did anyone find the relay with the diode ?
Where can I find that fuse block? I can’t seem to come up with one that has two separate inputs.
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I have a question can u do a video of whats better a super cap or adding an extra batter
Hi sir can we know the value of a diode that we use in a relay. Thanks in advance
Great topics covered and the Crutchfield service is the best I have seen. Shame we don't have similar in Australia for our vehicle models! " I can't find anything", trying to pick my own setup online is challenging. Has been many years since I delved into car audio and it has progressed so much. Your builds are first class and has my mind racing for my own setup in my 2018 Isuzu MU-X "not even in the US that I can see" will keep following along, I have done a few upgrades in the past "did I say "many years" really is a couple of decades "what a thought"! Thanks for all the info.
Been using relays since frying two decks in the late 80s. Newer equipment can draw less current than old school, but I still use them for future accessories as mentioned in this video.
What if, I am using a stock factory radio and I have already tapped into it for the LOC? Do I just re tap into the remote wire from the LC5i Pro ? Can you please further explain this? Thanks ! Love the videos!!!
what is the number of the diode?
You're awesome! I'm currently building a relay / switch panel and this video has been a great road map! Thank you!
Can I get a link for the relay with a built in diode thanks
Hi , very nice video. I Have a stereo that uses amplifiers . My remote wire from the stereo is not working (stays on always). Can I try to use the Switched Connection to power the amplifiers ? I can put a relay in this case.... 😄
But how do I control each accessory with one relay. Is one relay used for multiple accessories, or multiple relays. For example: let say I have horns that gets switch from train horns and oem horn. And I have lights as well. Do I only use one relay to control both things?
Ok so sum one help me..i added better grounds to my system and a taramp eq and now when i turn my system off it makes a loud pop noise when it didnt before..when i turn my radio off first it doesn't do it if that helps...can some one plz hepl me
Whats the diode name or number and where do i buy it?
Why would you install something that is going to draw more power from remote turn on. Rather than just connecting it directly to your amp.
your hook up explanation at the end is unclear of what you mentioned earlier about using a diode. It's not how you explained the wires and what pins to use.
how do i wire up a relay with a built in flyback diode to my amps, i guess there is only one way to to hook it up, ...
Where did you get that fuse panel from? Stinger?
So are you going to have a switch to turn on led or fans
Or is everything going to turn on when you turn on your radio
I'll be using the radio. When radio is on everything else comes on, although you could use a switch too. Just depends on the goals of your application
Are you using screws to build the boxes, or just the nail gun and glue? Of all the videos of box building I haven't seen predrilling holes and using screws. Maybe do a video of hand tools, such as nail gun and what size nails, also specific wood glues, how long they take to cure, ect.. You may already have some, you just have plethora of videos, and I haven't found those specifics. Awesome channel, you've done well with your business and RUclips.
Mark, would you be able to do a video regarding the "capacitor" installment between the main battery and amps? Is "capacitor" use on car audio system out of date? My car vehicle alternator is weak to charge the battery. I have 2004 STI (stock) with aftermarket amps. thanks.
Sounds like you need a new and/or larger alternator. Just my 2 cents.
If it is outputting properly yet not charging the battery, you are drawing too much for it's capacity (Assuming a healthy battery anyway.). A capacitor won't help with that. Caps are made to help smooth out and support when the bass really hits.
Another thing it could depend on is if things are wired properly. If your vehicle uses a battery current sensor to tell the computer your electrical load then commands the alternator based on that, it can cause issues if the sensor is bypassed. It will always command the alternator to output less than needed causing it to always be stressed.
Anyone feel free to add/correct me if I'm wrong.
@@caddyguy5369
Thank you so much for the information. The issue is that my subaru mechanics do not recommend replacing an aftermarket alternator for my vehicle because they are unreliable. It seems there are no reputable larger aftermarket alternators in current market for my STI.
Any one knows what this relay its called. Theres different ones and dint know which one it is
can you add a link to a ready to go Relay?
Bruhhh have you taken the time to measure the current draw from each device??? Each amplifier only requires 10mA (0.01a) meaning you can actually power up more than 10 devices without issues.
The relay is a mechanical device, which requires 100mA just to power the magnetic field in the relay.
I'm not gonna lie I wish you were closer to help me install my system. I'm feeling a little overwhelmed lol. And yes I would pay you lol
I can’t find a 12v fused diode protected relay anywhere. Can you post a link to the ones you use?
I still get sad at night many years later having to sell off my JL-500.1 monoblock amp. Old school. Bridgeable down to 1/2 ohm stable running 2 HCCA duel Voice Coil subs in my hatchback. Got to love how priorities change however my child is old enough now and is gonna be in her teens soon so gonna get back into adding a system in my project car which stock came with 2 component sets already which will sound even better once I upgrade them and amplify. However as I want 2 keep the weight down I'm only gonna add a really nice hard hitting 12 so supplement overall quality of sound. Should be good for music as well as playing DVDs. Jurassic Park would certainly be sick to watch in a vehicle...
I know this is old and apm's is a measure of current, but I think it's easier to explain by using the amp instead. Many wires are rated by amps. That said your remote wire is around 3-5 amps. Closer to 3 if your routing to the trunk. So in fact a relay is amazing idea if you don't want a switch or as mentioned fans and other stuff. I generally always trigger a relay if I have more than one "thing". Example is a single amp for a sub/box I won't but anything more then that where I use a amp rack I definitely always use a relay and fuse box also. Some of those fans can take 5-10 amps surge to get them going.
Hey hopefully someone here can help me. I’m currently upgrading my 15 Corolla however I’m not exactly clear on how to hook up (wire) my front door speakers with my tweeters. My new hertz’s door speakers and tweeters COMBINED are 75 WATT RMS at 4 ohm. My amp will provide the 75watt rms needed. My question is with the tweeters. Since the tweeters have a built in crossover do I just take the negative from both speaker (tweeter and door speaker) and like wise with the positive with both speakers twist them together n+n and p+p and connect them to the speaker wire from the amp ( obviously all negative wires connected and positive to positive wires) am I missing something? Am I over thinking it? I am planning on soldering the wires together. I’ve done subwoofers just never two different types of speakers to one channel on a amp.
Hi!.. im looking for ideas on installing 3 amplifiers on the center of my SUVs roof.. over head along the center roof line but covered by covers. Can to send any actual ideas on even starting this project thanks.
Hey Mark, Thank you for all your tutorials. You have inspired me to build this. so, I have a question. I am using a A2b for my 2018 ford raptor and will this be a lil different or would I take the factory remote turn on and take to the relay? Yes sir, I am over my head in this. but, I have always been interested in this kind of work. Also I am building your subwoofer box, using same subwoofers, same sub amp. also I am doing the door speakers. should I have a crossover or will my audiocontrol 810 been surfice? Again thank you so much for your tutorials
This question has nothing to do with the video but do you or anyone else know what my options are for upgrading my so called PREMIUM AUDIO SYSTEM in my 2021 honda accord EX-L hydrid from what I’ve learned it’s a little tricky cause it’s a hybrid vehicle bottom line the factory premium system sounds horrible and I would like to replace the speakers in the door and rear deck and possibly the subwoofer if that possible maybe use the factory amp for the mids and use after market amp the the sub please let me know I really want to get it done but have very little knowledge in this department I tried chatting with crutchfield but they don’t really have the answer I want to know exactly what to do
Hey Mark, quick question. At 11 minutes when u talk about the white wire, could I run that white wire to my L.O.C. remote that is triggered from my speakers receiving power, GTO tech. (LC7i)? I have a factory head unit
I just replaced my head unit . From older eclipse to a new Kenwood. After the swap now it pops when it turns on and at idle my subs have a rumble . Little rpm everything is smooth . 370 alternator . I have a relay in line . It didn't do this before I changed the head unit . I really don't want to go back to old deck . I like the newer one . All the new functions are nice . Any ideas . Probably not best description but hoping
Crutchfield isn't any help on my Pontiac G8
Apparently my new Kia Niro is too new for Crutchfield since their search engine says haven’t got anything on my vehicle yet! That’s a real bummer! Hopefully they will get more on my new car soon?
1:48 I am surprised you anchored the top ground wire to the bottom power wire right before they go to fuse block bcuz it pulled the ground up too high making it not look like typical CAF quality. Looks like the ground wire would first need to be shortened by an inch. Then drill zip tie hole to secure it to amp rack right before fuse block. I know you know what I'm talking about. Regardless, I'm impressed as always! Very grateful for your YT channel! Wish my filming & editing skills were up to your quality. Oh and my build skills as well! LoL
Could I safely add a high capacity relay between my amps and battery? My vehicle can sit for 3 months at a time, and I've had problems with the amp capacitors draining the battery. I know I could install a disconnect, but I'd like convenience.
I’m trying to dive in to designing my own, auto system, with after make stereo and 3x10 subs, 4x tweeters, the front and rear speakers, and there also a center front speaker, question is how many amps do I need, and how would I wire everything exactly?
So much info for a newbie lol so here is my dumb question... I have two amps and from what I understand is that I don't need a relay for this, however I was told if you splice your remote wire and connect it to both amps then one amp will stay on when the other turns off. Anyone wanna help this DA Newbie out??
Hi Mark. Why are DSP's power+rem cables are twisted? Does it really help with noise cancellation? Does it ok to connect RCA near power lines like yours? Thanks.
Can u tell me if I have mine wired fine so I don’t gotta worry about a relay going bad and then having to carry relays in my glove box to I have my remote from radio to dsp then from dsp it goes to 2 amps about to be 3 will I still be fine with I’m using 14 gauge to
Where are you getting the relay with fuse and diode from? I can't find one, but have one without the diode in my near future orders for an update install. Or what value diode would I get to add to the existing wires of the relay socket? Thanks! Enjoying your videos!!!!
i am following this build. i bought your woofer box plans. are u using crossovers with your door speakers?? i didn't know where u put them
Where did you get that fancy fuse
Block
Great insight as always. Would you add a link for the relay with diode you mentioned you ordered. Or provide a link to the diode you would of used for that specific relay in the video, since i was able to track it down on amazon.
there is another RUclips video that illustrates with specs that the relay requires more power from the head unit to power up than 8 amplifiers requires from the head unit to power up.
How about just isolating a custom sound system independent from the vehicle system and setting up a switch to either engage or disengage the two systems from the speakers
Isn't this what the Phoenix Gold TiDD10 and TiDD5 were doing like 15yrs ago??
Crutchfield is awesome I've only been using Crutchfield for 10 plus years now.
Im doing something similar, but a bit overkill, my system is basic, 4 6.5s on a 4 channel amp and a single 10 on a monoblock, also a half din EQ, a 3 way active crossover and a bass distrubution processor. So im getting relays that delay on and or off, im building a 8 channel with digital countdown for each channel, it will allow power down in sequence. I have most of it working, still need a few things but want to pick up a few more timers to see if i can add a turn on sequence as well as off sequence, i have it 1.2 secs between each delay.
Thanks for the video Mark. Another request for a link to the relay W/fuse holder please. Thank you for all you do.
Hey mark I have a question I install an audio system in my truck & there’s motor noise in the speakers & some guy from d tronics told me it was because I had all my wires together , is that true
@Mark can you share the link for the relay with the built in diode?
im wondering the same thing.
I did this on my truck. Running a RF 400.4 and a RF 1200.1 with crossover network. The relay is triggered by the remote turn on and goes to the amps and xover. It also goes to a 100A continuous duty solenoid for ignition hot 6 way power/ground block for other items and another 6 way power/ground block for constant hot items. Works like a champ!