You guys asked for it...So here it is, Enjoy! If you missed the amp rack wiring video check it out here: ruclips.net/video/UMAXMWmYX3o/видео.html Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between a built-in virtual dsp over a physical dsp? I ask because some head units will come with a dsp built in. It may be included to make head units more attractive to consumers, but is there drawbacks? How versatile is a built-in dsp compared to a dsp from AudioControl?
Hi Mark. I have to note to the relays diode. While a regular diode will do the job you have a high voltage drop by using one. Best is to use a zener diode. They have a lower voltage drop while having the same results. Zener diodes are more efficient than regular diodes.
@@anicetomaldonado I have not thought of relays for my amp systems, but I've been using relays for decades for lights, accessories, even making up my own turn signal converter for when the vehicle has amber turn signals and the trailer lamp is combined.
I got out of the car audio game for a while just because of unexpected challenges in life but now I'm back and realizing that I've missed out on so much in the past 7 years. Thank you so much for creating this channel and helping me get my spark and my enthusiasm about how awesome this stuff is back. I've used your videos religiously to create the system of my dreams and I can't thank you enough. Keep building ✌️
Think you've missed a bunch? My last install, including all three amps and EQ was done 20 years ago. And the equipment was from the late 80's. Sub amp finally lost a channel, thus the learning curve. Enjoying the heck out of it, but at almost 67, some of the work is not going to be easy!!!!🤔
That explanation was brilliant. I’m an electrician by trade but am here because my son and I are building an audio system for his car and we wanted to add LED lights. Thank you for breaking all of it down.
hi mark, with the relay wire i unpinned it and used new Female Spade Terminals with Locking Tab, crimped new wire cut to length. The way i remember what wire go's where on a relay is the compass method, looking at the relay pins the vertical pin at the top 87 north N=( new device), 85 east E= ( earth) 86 west W= (sWicth 12v), and 30 south= (solid 12v)
As others have asked, how do we find the correct relay with the “spike/flyback” diode built in? Google-fu is failing to provide answers. I appreciate the videos, but it would be greatly helpful if you provided links to all parts you use when introducing something like this.
Been using relays since frying two decks in the late 80s. Newer equipment can draw less current than old school, but I still use them for future accessories as mentioned in this video.
I did this on my truck. Running a RF 400.4 and a RF 1200.1 with crossover network. The relay is triggered by the remote turn on and goes to the amps and xover. It also goes to a 100A continuous duty solenoid for ignition hot 6 way power/ground block for other items and another 6 way power/ground block for constant hot items. Works like a champ!
Hey Mark! Once again you have nailed it with a plethora of information and ideas. One thing I, as well as others who have seen this video would love to know, is where can we get the same exact relay w/ suppression diode built in that you used? I seem to be having a hard time finding one....and that is the last item I need to complete my build. I'm trying to get this all completed by Xmas, so hopefully you can let us know to make Xmas miracles come true. Thanks again for spreading your wisdom to the masses!!
@caraudiofabrication Yes, Mark, please let us know where you found those relays. I’m getting my system pieced together, and it would be extremely helpful.
I would recommend always making a habit of putting your switched load on pole 30 rather than 87. For a SPST, it makes no difference but if a SPDT is used it does. If the 12v source is hooked to pole 30, then the wire attached to pole 87a will be energized when the coil is at rest. While that wire can be left unhooked, it is a potential short since you have 12 volts running through the relay all the time. If you hook pole 87 to your 12 volt source, then you can hook 87a to ground. This will ground the load circuit on pole 30 when the relay is at rest. Once energized, pole 30 will see 12 volts as needed then return to ground once the relay is no longer energized. The difference is only whether you have a loose hot wire all the time on the switched side of the relay, or not. As I said, for a SPST, it makes no difference. But if you just get into the habit of always putting the switched load on pole 30, then interchanging between a SPST and an SPDT an almost non issue.
It's important to have good habits like this. There are too many "good enough" methods, and many are not actually good at all and result in car fires, failed equipment, poor sound, and many other faults and failures. Good job taking a moment to share, we need more of this.
This is a joke right? If you ground 87a and have 12v on 30 then in an off state the relay is shorting 12v lol. Unless you're talking about setting up the relay so that 87 is 12v and you ground 87a. Why would it be beneficial to ground a power wire at rest lol? I've been in car audio/aftermarket electronics for 5 years and I would never go through the effort of doing anything you just mentioned. If I'm not using 87a it's getting depinned, or cut short and taped with another wire on the relay with fabric tape on top making it all pretty.
@@johncox6666 pole 30 goes to the amp, 87 goes to 12v source. Grounding 87a just guarantees that there is no voltage on the circuit when not needed or wanted. You can just pull the wire or cut it short, but why not use it and ground the circuit if you have it. When using the ground at rest the circuit is dead-dead and there is zero chance of any stray voltage activating anything on that line. Dad was an electrical engineer, so i picked up a few things from him that come from that background. These are things he did as best practices, and generally apply to most applications even if not absolutely necessary. This is exactly how the electric choke on my old truck is wired. Just ground the circuit when not in use - No need not to.
@@mebordernoneya8484 its just time consuming and unnecessary imo. What's on the other side of the load? Ground. Which do you think provides better ground potential for current to flow? Backwards or forwards? If the engineers that made the product had any sense then power won't even be able to backfeed out the supply line even if the product does store power either with a battery, capacitors, etc. Maybe this logic made sense 30+ years ago but it doesn't now. Circuits can be made in a way that if they are storing power it's not flowing back out it's power input anyway so you applying ground is doing nothing. It's like when they say to battery reset your vehicle by pulling power and shorting the terminals together. Say it with me SoLiD STaTe MemOrY! Not gonna clear your codes lol. Not trying to hate, you do you. It's just the amount of times I've run into a permenant habit built upon one situation boggles my mind. Technician states they had one issue with x behavior of electricity so then going forward whenever they do that job again they jump through ten hoops to prevent one potential issue. When in reality that issue was either a complete fluke or they came to an incorrect conclusion but still worked around the problem and once again it is situational to that scenario. Be informed, fuse your shit, and know how to use your meter and everything's gonna be gravy baby.
Dude uou are awesome very articulate and explain things in a way they are easy to understand i have watched 4 or 5 of your videos today because you captured my attention and i learned alot so thank you very much. Alot of these things have been a mystery to me and after listening to others not to be mentioned ended up more comfused than when i started. You make it clear concise and factual these other dudes i dunno. I probably knew more than they did and even less after watching them stumble thru trying to explain something they knew little to nothing about. Good work man you are good at what u do and it shows.
I am currently using a relay because I'm running three amps, LED rings, and a crossover.....and I fried the remote output circuit on my first head unit before I thought about adding the relay. But even after adding the relay I still didn't think about adding the diode until I watched this. Thanks for the advice.
Great topics covered and the Crutchfield service is the best I have seen. Shame we don't have similar in Australia for our vehicle models! " I can't find anything", trying to pick my own setup online is challenging. Has been many years since I delved into car audio and it has progressed so much. Your builds are first class and has my mind racing for my own setup in my 2018 Isuzu MU-X "not even in the US that I can see" will keep following along, I have done a few upgrades in the past "did I say "many years" really is a couple of decades "what a thought"! Thanks for all the info.
I started using relays to turn on amps when I started installing multi amp systems 27 years ago. Nice to see you finally use 1 in a multi amp install!1
This video made me subscribe to the channel. I've been doing car audio builds since 1998, 99, and I'm impressed with the information and amount given to do things correctly in this video. It gave me some ideas for my current build I'm working on. Thanks a bunch!!👍
What if, I am using a stock factory radio and I have already tapped into it for the LOC? Do I just re tap into the remote wire from the LC5i Pro ? Can you please further explain this? Thanks ! Love the videos!!!
Now I don't disbelieve what you are saying, because I know current diminishes with more things needing that current. But why am I able to power, or I should say turn on 5 amps and a dsp off of my headunit? Does the headunit matter? It's a pioneer AVH-2300NEX
Don't take offense to this but you are completely missing the point of this video. I'm not just turning on amps. I fully understand the turn on circuit for most amplifiers requires very little current. Watch the video again for my explanation of what this circuit IS for.
I know this is old and apm's is a measure of current, but I think it's easier to explain by using the amp instead. Many wires are rated by amps. That said your remote wire is around 3-5 amps. Closer to 3 if your routing to the trunk. So in fact a relay is amazing idea if you don't want a switch or as mentioned fans and other stuff. I generally always trigger a relay if I have more than one "thing". Example is a single amp for a sub/box I won't but anything more then that where I use a amp rack I definitely always use a relay and fuse box also. Some of those fans can take 5-10 amps surge to get them going.
Great insight as always. Would you add a link for the relay with diode you mentioned you ordered. Or provide a link to the diode you would of used for that specific relay in the video, since i was able to track it down on amazon.
Getting ready to install my most complicated system yet after about a decade of being out of the hobby. Your videos have been very helpful in getting ready to do it all the right way. One question: is there a specific reason that you use fuses on the large wire rather than circuit breakers. Obviously, if you install everything correctly, you shouldn't be blowing fuses. But it seems like a much nicer scenario to just reset a breaker than having to buy and replace the fuse.
Mark, would you be able to do a video regarding the "capacitor" installment between the main battery and amps? Is "capacitor" use on car audio system out of date? My car vehicle alternator is weak to charge the battery. I have 2004 STI (stock) with aftermarket amps. thanks.
Sounds like you need a new and/or larger alternator. Just my 2 cents. If it is outputting properly yet not charging the battery, you are drawing too much for it's capacity (Assuming a healthy battery anyway.). A capacitor won't help with that. Caps are made to help smooth out and support when the bass really hits. Another thing it could depend on is if things are wired properly. If your vehicle uses a battery current sensor to tell the computer your electrical load then commands the alternator based on that, it can cause issues if the sensor is bypassed. It will always command the alternator to output less than needed causing it to always be stressed. Anyone feel free to add/correct me if I'm wrong.
@@caddyguy5369 Thank you so much for the information. The issue is that my subaru mechanics do not recommend replacing an aftermarket alternator for my vehicle because they are unreliable. It seems there are no reputable larger aftermarket alternators in current market for my STI.
Years ago a shop had told me that a remote lead was only ment to turn on 1 device any more then that you needed a relay. I know you're running alot of extras but at what point do you suggest a relay? # of amps or what not
When the needed current will exceed the rating of the head unit. Usually not needed for today's multiple amplifiers, but obviously in this video the circuit is for much more than that.
Hi , very nice video. I Have a stereo that uses amplifiers . My remote wire from the stereo is not working (stays on always). Can I try to use the Switched Connection to power the amplifiers ? I can put a relay in this case.... 😄
Hey great video but I have a serious question. In South Africa 6x9's are in every vehicle here. How can I tell if a 6x9 is really good quality vs a poor quality set. I know price plays a huge role but is price the only indicator of good quality.
Once again, a wealth of information. I have learnt so much from your channel, so thank you. I am currently wiring up a very similar system to what you have there!
Im doing something similar, but a bit overkill, my system is basic, 4 6.5s on a 4 channel amp and a single 10 on a monoblock, also a half din EQ, a 3 way active crossover and a bass distrubution processor. So im getting relays that delay on and or off, im building a 8 channel with digital countdown for each channel, it will allow power down in sequence. I have most of it working, still need a few things but want to pick up a few more timers to see if i can add a turn on sequence as well as off sequence, i have it 1.2 secs between each delay.
Where are you getting the relay with fuse and diode from? I can't find one, but have one without the diode in my near future orders for an update install. Or what value diode would I get to add to the existing wires of the relay socket? Thanks! Enjoying your videos!!!!
But how do I control each accessory with one relay. Is one relay used for multiple accessories, or multiple relays. For example: let say I have horns that gets switch from train horns and oem horn. And I have lights as well. Do I only use one relay to control both things?
unrelated to this topic specifically, but I would love to see a comparison between a three-piece component system and a two-piece component system, and your opinion on whether the three piece is enough better to warrant the extra work and expense. I have a Lexus with a woofer, mid-range, and tweeter in each door and I'm wondering if I need to replace all three speakers or simply forgo the mid-range and go with a two-way component system.
Hi!.. im looking for ideas on installing 3 amplifiers on the center of my SUVs roof.. over head along the center roof line but covered by covers. Can to send any actual ideas on even starting this project thanks.
Hey Mark, Thank you for all your tutorials. You have inspired me to build this. so, I have a question. I am using a A2b for my 2018 ford raptor and will this be a lil different or would I take the factory remote turn on and take to the relay? Yes sir, I am over my head in this. but, I have always been interested in this kind of work. Also I am building your subwoofer box, using same subwoofers, same sub amp. also I am doing the door speakers. should I have a crossover or will my audiocontrol 810 been surfice? Again thank you so much for your tutorials
I’m trying to dive in to designing my own, auto system, with after make stereo and 3x10 subs, 4x tweeters, the front and rear speakers, and there also a center front speaker, question is how many amps do I need, and how would I wire everything exactly?
Hi Mark. Why are DSP's power+rem cables are twisted? Does it really help with noise cancellation? Does it ok to connect RCA near power lines like yours? Thanks.
I just replaced my head unit . From older eclipse to a new Kenwood. After the swap now it pops when it turns on and at idle my subs have a rumble . Little rpm everything is smooth . 370 alternator . I have a relay in line . It didn't do this before I changed the head unit . I really don't want to go back to old deck . I like the newer one . All the new functions are nice . Any ideas . Probably not best description but hoping
Hey Mark, quick question. At 11 minutes when u talk about the white wire, could I run that white wire to my L.O.C. remote that is triggered from my speakers receiving power, GTO tech. (LC7i)? I have a factory head unit
Apparently my new Kia Niro is too new for Crutchfield since their search engine says haven’t got anything on my vehicle yet! That’s a real bummer! Hopefully they will get more on my new car soon?
Where can I find the relay with the diode built-in or where can I find the correct diode for that matter? It seems everyone is asking this same question, but no answer is provided.
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You guys asked for it...So here it is, Enjoy! If you missed the amp rack wiring video check it out here: ruclips.net/video/UMAXMWmYX3o/видео.html Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between a built-in virtual dsp over a physical dsp? I ask because some head units will come with a dsp built in. It may be included to make head units more attractive to consumers, but is there drawbacks? How versatile is a built-in dsp compared to a dsp from AudioControl?
All this power will u need a extra battery
Hi Mark. I have to note to the relays diode. While a regular diode will do the job you have a high voltage drop by using one. Best is to use a zener diode. They have a lower voltage drop while having the same results. Zener diodes are more efficient than regular diodes.
Hello Mark,
Love what you do with your installs.
Just wondering would you custom build a box for a 10" JL Sub that would fit a VW Golf?
Thank you.
Where’s the rest of the build?
The relay idea is one of those "Why didn't I think of that" things that is so simple yet so elusive.
I've been using relays for about twenty years.
They are great for light bars, LEDs, amp fans, all kinds of things
@@anicetomaldonado I have not thought of relays for my amp systems, but I've been using relays for decades for lights, accessories, even making up my own turn signal converter for when the vehicle has amber turn signals and the trailer lamp is combined.
@@robertemmons2260 yeah, I don't use them for amps, rather the external fans one adds to an amp rack. I even used to have a 12 volt coffee maker.
@@anicetomaldonado where do I get that type of relays from
I got out of the car audio game for a while just because of unexpected challenges in life but now I'm back and realizing that I've missed out on so much in the past 7 years. Thank you so much for creating this channel and helping me get my spark and my enthusiasm about how awesome this stuff is back. I've used your videos religiously to create the system of my dreams and I can't thank you enough. Keep building ✌️
Think you've missed a bunch? My last install, including all three amps and EQ was done 20 years ago. And the equipment was from the late 80's. Sub amp finally lost a channel, thus the learning curve. Enjoying the heck out of it, but at almost 67, some of the work is not going to be easy!!!!🤔
I've been using those very fused relays. They've been working great and barely get warm. This is the content I enjoy
Where do I get those relay?
That explanation was brilliant. I’m an electrician by trade but am here because my son and I are building an audio system for his car and we wanted to add LED lights. Thank you for breaking all of it down.
hi mark, with the relay wire i unpinned it and used new Female Spade Terminals with Locking Tab, crimped new wire cut to length. The way i remember what wire go's where on a relay is the compass method, looking at the relay pins the vertical pin at the top 87 north N=( new device), 85 east E= ( earth) 86 west W= (sWicth 12v), and 30 south= (solid 12v)
Thanks Mark for 'relaying' that information!!👍🏻
😄👍 dad jokes in the house
Love it!
Do you have a link for the relay that you purchased with the diode built in?
Did you ever get an answer to this?
@@ElevatedVehicles If you haven't gotten your answer...look up Picker relays. Specifically this part number: PC775-1A-12C-D-X. Hope this helps👍🏼
Still waiting
Not the greatest having to buy 8 as a diy guy but I'm sure it won't be impossible to flip the other 7.
Have 6 left after the install.... mistakes were made. 😂
As others have asked, how do we find the correct relay with the “spike/flyback” diode built in? Google-fu is failing to provide answers. I appreciate the videos, but it would be greatly helpful if you provided links to all parts you use when introducing something like this.
Been using relays since frying two decks in the late 80s. Newer equipment can draw less current than old school, but I still use them for future accessories as mentioned in this video.
So i have 2 questions
1. Where can i find said special relay??
2. What size fuse would you recommend for continuing the remote wire
I did this on my truck. Running a RF 400.4 and a RF 1200.1 with crossover network. The relay is triggered by the remote turn on and goes to the amps and xover. It also goes to a 100A continuous duty solenoid for ignition hot 6 way power/ground block for other items and another 6 way power/ground block for constant hot items. Works like a champ!
Hey Mark! Once again you have nailed it with a plethora of information and ideas. One thing I, as well as others who have seen this video would love to know, is where can we get the same exact relay w/ suppression diode built in that you used? I seem to be having a hard time finding one....and that is the last item I need to complete my build. I'm trying to get this all completed by Xmas, so hopefully you can let us know to make Xmas miracles come true. Thanks again for spreading your wisdom to the masses!!
@caraudiofabrication Yes, Mark, please let us know where you found those relays. I’m getting my system pieced together, and it would be extremely helpful.
same issue
cant find it with built in diode
Sir, you did not mention the diode number you suggested for the EMF, please advise?
Please post link with the relay that has the diode already in it
I would recommend always making a habit of putting your switched load on pole 30 rather than 87. For a SPST, it makes no difference but if a SPDT is used it does. If the 12v source is hooked to pole 30, then the wire attached to pole 87a will be energized when the coil is at rest. While that wire can be left unhooked, it is a potential short since you have 12 volts running through the relay all the time.
If you hook pole 87 to your 12 volt source, then you can hook 87a to ground. This will ground the load circuit on pole 30 when the relay is at rest. Once energized, pole 30 will see 12 volts as needed then return to ground once the relay is no longer energized. The difference is only whether you have a loose hot wire all the time on the switched side of the relay, or not.
As I said, for a SPST, it makes no difference. But if you just get into the habit of always putting the switched load on pole 30, then interchanging between a SPST and an SPDT an almost non issue.
It's important to have good habits like this. There are too many "good enough" methods, and many are not actually good at all and result in car fires, failed equipment, poor sound, and many other faults and failures. Good job taking a moment to share, we need more of this.
This is a joke right? If you ground 87a and have 12v on 30 then in an off state the relay is shorting 12v lol. Unless you're talking about setting up the relay so that 87 is 12v and you ground 87a. Why would it be beneficial to ground a power wire at rest lol? I've been in car audio/aftermarket electronics for 5 years and I would never go through the effort of doing anything you just mentioned. If I'm not using 87a it's getting depinned, or cut short and taped with another wire on the relay with fabric tape on top making it all pretty.
@@johncox6666 pole 30 goes to the amp, 87 goes to 12v source. Grounding 87a just guarantees that there is no voltage on the circuit when not needed or wanted.
You can just pull the wire or cut it short, but why not use it and ground the circuit if you have it. When using the ground at rest the circuit is dead-dead and there is zero chance of any stray voltage activating anything on that line.
Dad was an electrical engineer, so i picked up a few things from him that come from that background. These are things he did as best practices, and generally apply to most applications even if not absolutely necessary.
This is exactly how the electric choke on my old truck is wired. Just ground the circuit when not in use - No need not to.
Can you make a video on this?
@@mebordernoneya8484 its just time consuming and unnecessary imo. What's on the other side of the load? Ground. Which do you think provides better ground potential for current to flow? Backwards or forwards? If the engineers that made the product had any sense then power won't even be able to backfeed out the supply line even if the product does store power either with a battery, capacitors, etc. Maybe this logic made sense 30+ years ago but it doesn't now. Circuits can be made in a way that if they are storing power it's not flowing back out it's power input anyway so you applying ground is doing nothing. It's like when they say to battery reset your vehicle by pulling power and shorting the terminals together. Say it with me SoLiD STaTe MemOrY! Not gonna clear your codes lol.
Not trying to hate, you do you. It's just the amount of times I've run into a permenant habit built upon one situation boggles my mind. Technician states they had one issue with x behavior of electricity so then going forward whenever they do that job again they jump through ten hoops to prevent one potential issue. When in reality that issue was either a complete fluke or they came to an incorrect conclusion but still worked around the problem and once again it is situational to that scenario. Be informed, fuse your shit, and know how to use your meter and everything's gonna be gravy baby.
Did you ever say which relay you went with that had the built-in diode?
I just want to thank you! For all the years you’ve spent helping us on improving our skills!
Dude uou are awesome very articulate and explain things in a way they are easy to understand i have watched 4 or 5 of your videos today because you captured my attention and i learned alot so thank you very much. Alot of these things have been a mystery to me and after listening to others not to be mentioned ended up more comfused than when i started. You make it clear concise and factual these other dudes i dunno. I probably knew more than they did and even less after watching them stumble thru trying to explain something they knew little to nothing about. Good work man you are good at what u do and it shows.
What distribution block is that?
I am currently using a relay because I'm running three amps, LED rings, and a crossover.....and I fried the remote output circuit on my first head unit before I thought about adding the relay. But even after adding the relay I still didn't think about adding the diode until I watched this. Thanks for the advice.
Did you post the part # for the relay you ordered with the internal diode? Having trouble finding one for my build. Thanks
It's listed on the relay in the video as well as company name.
do you have a link for your fuse blocks
Please link the fuse with
Diode you ordered. Having a hard time finding it
Great topics covered and the Crutchfield service is the best I have seen. Shame we don't have similar in Australia for our vehicle models! " I can't find anything", trying to pick my own setup online is challenging. Has been many years since I delved into car audio and it has progressed so much. Your builds are first class and has my mind racing for my own setup in my 2018 Isuzu MU-X "not even in the US that I can see" will keep following along, I have done a few upgrades in the past "did I say "many years" really is a couple of decades "what a thought"! Thanks for all the info.
I started using relays to turn on amps when I started installing multi amp systems 27 years ago. Nice to see you finally use 1 in a multi amp install!1
@Mark can you share the link for the relay with the built in diode?
im wondering the same thing.
Same, I've been looking for them all over....either it's not listed as such, or it's something that's not widely available.
Great video as always, could you provide a link to the relays you keep on hand?
Hey, could you post a link for the fused distribution block (the one that the relay is connected to)
Crutchfield is awesome I've only been using Crutchfield for 10 plus years now.
This video made me subscribe to the channel. I've been doing car audio builds since 1998, 99, and I'm impressed with the information and amount given to do things correctly in this video. It gave me some ideas for my current build I'm working on. Thanks a bunch!!👍
I have a question can u do a video of whats better a super cap or adding an extra batter
Please give use the link to the spst with diode you will use
What if, I am using a stock factory radio and I have already tapped into it for the LOC? Do I just re tap into the remote wire from the LC5i Pro ? Can you please further explain this? Thanks ! Love the videos!!!
@caraudiofabrication what distribution blocks are you using?
Thanks for the video Mark. Another request for a link to the relay W/fuse holder please. Thank you for all you do.
You're awesome! I'm currently building a relay / switch panel and this video has been a great road map! Thank you!
What size diode shod be used on 30A-40A four pin relay and socket??.
Now I don't disbelieve what you are saying, because I know current diminishes with more things needing that current. But why am I able to power, or I should say turn on 5 amps and a dsp off of my headunit?
Does the headunit matter? It's a pioneer AVH-2300NEX
Don't take offense to this but you are completely missing the point of this video. I'm not just turning on amps. I fully understand the turn on circuit for most amplifiers requires very little current. Watch the video again for my explanation of what this circuit IS for.
+1 on wanting the diode info.. I'll keep researching..
I know this is old and apm's is a measure of current, but I think it's easier to explain by using the amp instead. Many wires are rated by amps. That said your remote wire is around 3-5 amps. Closer to 3 if your routing to the trunk. So in fact a relay is amazing idea if you don't want a switch or as mentioned fans and other stuff. I generally always trigger a relay if I have more than one "thing". Example is a single amp for a sub/box I won't but anything more then that where I use a amp rack I definitely always use a relay and fuse box also. Some of those fans can take 5-10 amps surge to get them going.
Any links for a relay with a diode?
Links to the relays with diode protection?
I love this! This is all very useful information. Can we have the links to the parts used? That would be awesome!
Wow, I have never seen a relay with a built in fuse before? Now I’m going to have to go hunting for those!
A lot over look remote power from the head unit. Years ago when I put a relay and auxiliary fuse block. A Great Reminder!!!👍
What is the diode size we need to make it ourselves
Great work as always!
This build is fantastic. So glad that you went into this much detail over the process!
Dude, you’re friggin awesome. I continue to learn so much from you. Thank you for creating great content and educating us. 💪🏽
Relays have always confused me, this helped a lot. Thanks.
Great insight as always. Would you add a link for the relay with diode you mentioned you ordered. Or provide a link to the diode you would of used for that specific relay in the video, since i was able to track it down on amazon.
Getting ready to install my most complicated system yet after about a decade of being out of the hobby. Your videos have been very helpful in getting ready to do it all the right way. One question: is there a specific reason that you use fuses on the large wire rather than circuit breakers. Obviously, if you install everything correctly, you shouldn't be blowing fuses. But it seems like a much nicer scenario to just reset a breaker than having to buy and replace the fuse.
Hi sir can we know the value of a diode that we use in a relay. Thanks in advance
Mark, would you be able to do a video regarding the "capacitor" installment between the main battery and amps? Is "capacitor" use on car audio system out of date? My car vehicle alternator is weak to charge the battery. I have 2004 STI (stock) with aftermarket amps. thanks.
Sounds like you need a new and/or larger alternator. Just my 2 cents.
If it is outputting properly yet not charging the battery, you are drawing too much for it's capacity (Assuming a healthy battery anyway.). A capacitor won't help with that. Caps are made to help smooth out and support when the bass really hits.
Another thing it could depend on is if things are wired properly. If your vehicle uses a battery current sensor to tell the computer your electrical load then commands the alternator based on that, it can cause issues if the sensor is bypassed. It will always command the alternator to output less than needed causing it to always be stressed.
Anyone feel free to add/correct me if I'm wrong.
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Thank you so much for the information. The issue is that my subaru mechanics do not recommend replacing an aftermarket alternator for my vehicle because they are unreliable. It seems there are no reputable larger aftermarket alternators in current market for my STI.
Years ago a shop had told me that a remote lead was only ment to turn on 1 device any more then that you needed a relay. I know you're running alot of extras but at what point do you suggest a relay? # of amps or what not
any more than two amps running off a remote line and you need a new source to tap for power
When the needed current will exceed the rating of the head unit. Usually not needed for today's multiple amplifiers, but obviously in this video the circuit is for much more than that.
Where can I find that fuse block? I can’t seem to come up with one that has two separate inputs.
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Great video but what diode would you suggest?
Can I get a link for the relay with a built in diode thanks
in the video you mention that you were waiting for a relay with a diode already in it do you have the link for that ?
Hi , very nice video. I Have a stereo that uses amplifiers . My remote wire from the stereo is not working (stays on always). Can I try to use the Switched Connection to power the amplifiers ? I can put a relay in this case.... 😄
Are there SPST relays with both the fuse and diode? I'm not seeing any.
i am following this build. i bought your woofer box plans. are u using crossovers with your door speakers?? i didn't know where u put them
Hey great video but I have a serious question. In South Africa 6x9's are in every vehicle here. How can I tell if a 6x9 is really good quality vs a poor quality set. I know price plays a huge role but is price the only indicator of good quality.
Good Info . What the info on the spike diode needed ?
Hey mark! Can we get a link for the relay with built in flyback diode (spike suppression diode/ freewheel diode) cant find them anywhere!
So are you going to have a switch to turn on led or fans
Or is everything going to turn on when you turn on your radio
I'll be using the radio. When radio is on everything else comes on, although you could use a switch too. Just depends on the goals of your application
Once again, a wealth of information.
I have learnt so much from your channel, so thank you.
I am currently wiring up a very similar system to what you have there!
Can u lost where to find that fused terminal strip block that you ran this relay along with?
Im doing something similar, but a bit overkill, my system is basic, 4 6.5s on a 4 channel amp and a single 10 on a monoblock, also a half din EQ, a 3 way active crossover and a bass distrubution processor. So im getting relays that delay on and or off, im building a 8 channel with digital countdown for each channel, it will allow power down in sequence. I have most of it working, still need a few things but want to pick up a few more timers to see if i can add a turn on sequence as well as off sequence, i have it 1.2 secs between each delay.
Mark your videos are always awesome brother.
Where are you getting the relay with fuse and diode from? I can't find one, but have one without the diode in my near future orders for an update install. Or what value diode would I get to add to the existing wires of the relay socket? Thanks! Enjoying your videos!!!!
Where did you get that fancy fuse
Block
My Christmas dream is to just give my car to this guy for a day. I'm sure it'll sound much better.
You could also use a solid state relay for DC you can get them up to 100 amp capacity
can you add a link to a ready to go Relay?
But how do I control each accessory with one relay. Is one relay used for multiple accessories, or multiple relays. For example: let say I have horns that gets switch from train horns and oem horn. And I have lights as well. Do I only use one relay to control both things?
If I got that blue sea fuse block does the wire ran to the battery need to be fused as well?
unrelated to this topic specifically, but I would love to see a comparison between a three-piece component system and a two-piece component system, and your opinion on whether the three piece is enough better to warrant the extra work and expense.
I have a Lexus with a woofer, mid-range, and tweeter in each door and I'm wondering if I need to replace all three speakers or simply forgo the mid-range and go with a two-way component system.
Hi!.. im looking for ideas on installing 3 amplifiers on the center of my SUVs roof.. over head along the center roof line but covered by covers. Can to send any actual ideas on even starting this project thanks.
Car audio fabrication.... can I get a link for that same solenoid please sir
i have 2 of the same fuse blocks as you,,,where can i get the ground link terminals for the ground side ?
thanks for the video it really helps.
Hey Mark, Thank you for all your tutorials. You have inspired me to build this. so, I have a question. I am using a A2b for my 2018 ford raptor and will this be a lil different or would I take the factory remote turn on and take to the relay? Yes sir, I am over my head in this. but, I have always been interested in this kind of work. Also I am building your subwoofer box, using same subwoofers, same sub amp. also I am doing the door speakers. should I have a crossover or will my audiocontrol 810 been surfice? Again thank you so much for your tutorials
Hey what kind of fuse block are you using 🤔
I’m trying to dive in to designing my own, auto system, with after make stereo and 3x10 subs, 4x tweeters, the front and rear speakers, and there also a center front speaker, question is how many amps do I need, and how would I wire everything exactly?
Hi Mark. Why are DSP's power+rem cables are twisted? Does it really help with noise cancellation? Does it ok to connect RCA near power lines like yours? Thanks.
Should I buy a DSP if I am using a non-stock head unit?
how do i wire up a relay with a built in flyback diode to my amps, i guess there is only one way to to hook it up, ...
what is the number of the diode?
I just replaced my head unit . From older eclipse to a new Kenwood. After the swap now it pops when it turns on and at idle my subs have a rumble . Little rpm everything is smooth . 370 alternator . I have a relay in line . It didn't do this before I changed the head unit . I really don't want to go back to old deck . I like the newer one . All the new functions are nice . Any ideas . Probably not best description but hoping
Hey Mark, quick question. At 11 minutes when u talk about the white wire, could I run that white wire to my L.O.C. remote that is triggered from my speakers receiving power, GTO tech. (LC7i)? I have a factory head unit
Thank you for teaching and sharing. What is the relay model number and where I can buy?
See your work happy my heart
Apparently my new Kia Niro is too new for Crutchfield since their search engine says haven’t got anything on my vehicle yet! That’s a real bummer! Hopefully they will get more on my new car soon?
Where can I find the relay with the diode built-in or where can I find the correct diode for that matter? It seems everyone is asking this same question, but no answer is provided.
Mark does the relay increase current flow for the accessories?
I can’t find a 12v fused diode protected relay anywhere. Can you post a link to the ones you use?
Whats diode number?
Great job Mark, as always. Very informative and well articulated.
Possible to get a link for the relay with the diode?