check out this video maintenance video and review on the mower ruclips.net/video/KY4lxtCMxjI/видео.html I am using a maschio Brava 160 If you are interested in a maschio mower or any of the other implements I have demonstrated, Use code: Rockhill5 to get 5% off your order at www.agfolks.com
I have seen you using a Brushhog for really thick brush before, which were awesome what you think about Flail Mower for really heavy thick Brush ? Are you using Blades or Hammers?
@@RichardLisboa he's likely using hammers since hammers come standard on Maschio. For really thick brush, a flail mower can't be beat. I have mowed fields with locust thorn bushes with my batwing and ran over what I cut and got a flat. When I mow the same stuff with a flail it shreds everything into very small pieces. I one time mowed a field that had a 9" round log about 6 feet long, my Maschio flail shred it like bagged mulch. Something like that would jam the blades on a rotary.
@@zfilmmaker thank you for the insight, I have bought a flail mower, and really awesome. I bought from WoodMaxx FM60 and have been really great, they came with the 3 blades instead of the hammers but I also bought a set of hammers which I will be testing soon, I will try to do some videos around that because os really impressive. Thanks for sharing your experiences it's really helpful for first timers.
@@RichardLisboa glad you like your flail. Check with the manufacturer of your mower before installing hammers. For most flail mowers, knives and hammers are not interchangeable on the same drum due to the significant weight difference. The drums are factory counterbalanced for either one…you can see this by spinning your drum by hand, you’ll see some small square or round plates welded to the drum. Since the video is about Maschio FYI…their drum is ‘not’ interchangeable.
@@zfilmmaker yes I know that I bought from WoodMaxx, they have sent me the hammers kit because the flail that they had in stock was with blades but it's unterchangeable this one . By the way I'm impressed with this Brande the well made it is ...
I got rid of my Brush Hog for a Flail Mower (with hammer blades). There's no comparison. The Brush Hog tended to knock things over rather than cut them, or leave big clumps of grass and whole twigs everywhere (that never rot down). The Flail actually does a pretty good job on grass, leaving an easy job for my Finish Mower to do a final cut, but reduces saplings to chips and sawdust, that will rot down quickly.
@@RockhillfarmYT I went with the 2023 Giraffa XL 185 Mulcher. It's been awesome. I have already put it to the test and it passed my expectations. 'm able to mow banks on the creek I have thru my property and along a driveway.
You were talking about it using more PTO power. I think the flail mower you have is rated for 35-80 PTO hp. Your 2038r is rated lower than the recommended minimum of 35 hp, according to JD specs the 2038r puts out 30.4 hp at the PTO. It will work but not do as well as it should due to it already having less than the recommended minimum hp to operate the flail. Once you get into thicker material it will not have the hp to keep it spinning at operating rpm. Just don't fault the flail mower for not operating as well due to being offset and the PTO shaft not straight behind the tractor. The flail is already operating below recommended PTO hp.
Which version of the Giraffa, are you using? The website list the S and M models, for up to 40 HP. After you get to the L and XL, 40 HP is on the low side.
That leaves an excellent cut for sure. Couple comments… 1). It looked like you were cutting way to low. I would raise the mower up and not cut any lower than 3”-4” inches. This I’ll help with your engine bogging down and not robbing HP. 2) I’ve noticed before that you are spending a ton of time turning around. I cut a pass and turn into the next pass with a lazy radius turn and work my way all the way across the field. Then turn around and snake back all the way thru field back over what I just cut. This does two things…. You are cutting against the last pass of laid down grass and you are not stopping and turning around with every pass as you are doing now. You will be amazed at how much time you cut off of your mowing time by not stopping and turning into the next pass & not slowing down. I think that if you are not cutting at a speed of 4-5 mph. Your tractor is too small for the type or size cutter that you re using. 1 mph less speed with a 5’ cutter cost you 2/3 of an acre less cut area an hour. For my money, overall Maintence cost, weight & required tractor HP the rotary cutter is the only way to go. Great video and look at the pros & cons of the flail mower! 👍👍
1) If the goal is mowing, you are correct. If the goal is mulching to the ground, then the whole purpose of flail mowing is flailing the cutter against the brush and against the ground. This becomes a poor mans forestry mulcher, as long as the stumps are smaller than 2", 3", or whatever power you have. 2a) Doubling back (1st pass is cut, 2nd pass is mulch to ground) is a technique used to mulch, where the goal is mulching. cutting and mulching often can't be done in the same pass. Forestry mulching is usually done with a forward rotating drum to cut, and mulch works better going backwards with forward rotation, as many times as it takes the grass, weeds, sticks, or samplings to be shredded to desired consistency. 2b) Also remember the guy has a camera to please. The camera is not moving. He's demonstrating within those limits, the pass with lazy radius goes off camera :) It looks like mowing is your goal, while I have a skid steer mower and need no mowing help. Taller grass would be hay or pastured. Anything else up to 1" is find for my finish mower :) and anything else could be done with a brush cutter. None of those implements mulch stumps to forest floor or prairie floor. Brush cutter is 2", lift the wheel and go lower, but then mowing height is subject to bumps. The only reason I have this is for mulching, and sometimes it takes 1 pass and sometimes 10. This is all better than whacking 1" - 2" prickly ash or buckthorn and feeding it through a chipper. Brush cut if necessary, and then mulch to the floor with many passes with the flail. If you have a $150,000 skid steer and forestry mulcher, more power to you, but this is my tool. Hammer Knives for me, side knives work better for grass.
A flail mower is very likely my next "large" purchase for my tractor. Thanks for this video. Are you still happy with that Piranha Tooth Bar on your bucket?
I think the next "real world" test will be green vegetation that is growing and sappy, it'll show a better horse power requirement comparison versus a rotary cutter
I assume not, since you didn't do it, but for a job that size are there any benefits to going to the trouble of removing the front end loader? Is there some larger size job where that to would make sense?
I’ll answer as I have a 2 series tractor with the 220 loader…. I can take the loader of in less than 2-3 minutes. Installs just as quick. It gives me more maneuverability and don’t have to worry about running into stuff as much… and less weight … steers easier too . That being said…. If I don’t know the land, there could be hidden stumps or trash… so I run with the bucket as low as I can without dragging , in order to help feel for obstacles
I'm still waiting to see the brush get cut. There is very little if any brush being cut here. In one of the pictures after the camera fell there is actually some brush and the flail didn't cut it . hahhah
check out this video maintenance video and review on the mower
ruclips.net/video/KY4lxtCMxjI/видео.html
I am using a maschio Brava 160
If you are interested in a maschio mower or any of the other implements I have demonstrated, Use code: Rockhill5 to get 5% off your order at www.agfolks.com
I have seen you using a Brushhog for really thick brush before, which were awesome what you think about Flail Mower for really heavy thick Brush ? Are you using Blades or Hammers?
@@RichardLisboa he's likely using hammers since hammers come standard on Maschio. For really thick brush, a flail mower can't be beat. I have mowed fields with locust thorn bushes with my batwing and ran over what I cut and got a flat. When I mow the same stuff with a flail it shreds everything into very small pieces. I one time mowed a field that had a 9" round log about 6 feet long, my Maschio flail shred it like bagged mulch. Something like that would jam the blades on a rotary.
@@zfilmmaker thank you for the insight, I have bought a flail mower, and really awesome. I bought from WoodMaxx FM60 and have been really great, they came with the 3 blades instead of the hammers but I also bought a set of hammers which I will be testing soon, I will try to do some videos around that because os really impressive.
Thanks for sharing your experiences it's really helpful for first timers.
@@RichardLisboa glad you like your flail. Check with the manufacturer of your mower before installing hammers. For most flail mowers, knives and hammers are not interchangeable on the same drum due to the significant weight difference. The drums are factory counterbalanced for either one…you can see this by spinning your drum by hand, you’ll see some small square or round plates welded to the drum. Since the video is about Maschio FYI…their drum is ‘not’ interchangeable.
@@zfilmmaker yes I know that I bought from WoodMaxx, they have sent me the hammers kit because the flail that they had in stock was with blades but it's unterchangeable this one . By the way I'm impressed with this Brande the well made it is ...
That’s so much better than a brush mower. 😮
Boy every time I see that flail mower I like it a little bit more. Good stuff Brock thanks for sharing! 🤠
That flail mower does an awesome job!
Been debating on buy a flail mower, after seeing your results, I gotts get me one of those!
I got rid of my Brush Hog for a Flail Mower (with hammer blades). There's no comparison. The Brush Hog tended to knock things over rather than cut them, or leave big clumps of grass and whole twigs everywhere (that never rot down).
The Flail actually does a pretty good job on grass, leaving an easy job for my Finish Mower to do a final cut, but reduces saplings to chips and sawdust, that will rot down quickly.
I just bought a flail mower because of these videos. It’s great.
Cool. What mower did you go with
@@RockhillfarmYT I went with the 2023 Giraffa XL 185 Mulcher. It's been awesome. I have already put it to the test and it passed my expectations. 'm able to mow banks on the creek I have thru my property and along a driveway.
Got to love the flail mowers. Always a good investment
Leaves a nice finish every time.
You might try a weight on a string tied to the base of the tripod to steady it during filming on windy days. Works for me.
I have their roto tiller for years, they make a quality product.
It is awesome, very nice indeed.
Nice job! No rocks in the fields like up here! I need an excavator!
You were talking about it using more PTO power. I think the flail mower you have is rated for 35-80 PTO hp. Your 2038r is rated lower than the recommended minimum of 35 hp, according to JD specs the 2038r puts out 30.4 hp at the PTO. It will work but not do as well as it should due to it already having less than the recommended minimum hp to operate the flail. Once you get into thicker material it will not have the hp to keep it spinning at operating rpm. Just don't fault the flail mower for not operating as well due to being offset and the PTO shaft not straight behind the tractor. The flail is already operating below recommended PTO hp.
Depends on where you look. I found it listed at 25 hp needed for the Flail
Any chance your gonna get a flail mower for the skid steer?
Any reason you left the bucket on the front while mowing? Seems the extra weight might cause a waste of gas? But Im not an expert on these things?
Which version of the Giraffa, are you using? The website list the S and M models, for up to 40 HP. After you get to the L and XL, 40 HP is on the low side.
Mine is the brava 160
I should’ve mentioned that, but I’ll put it in the description
38hp tractor. 30.6 pto hp
Did you get your truck reverse issue resolved?
What is the typical cost to clear land like that?
I wish I could afford a tractor and mower. I am on 12.23 acres.
That leaves an excellent cut for sure. Couple comments… 1). It looked like you were cutting way to low. I would raise the mower up and not cut any lower than 3”-4” inches. This I’ll help with your engine bogging down and not robbing HP. 2) I’ve noticed before that you are spending a ton of time turning around. I cut a pass and turn into the next pass with a lazy radius turn and work my way all the way across the field. Then turn around and snake back all the way thru field back over what I just cut. This does two things…. You are cutting against the last pass of laid down grass and you are not stopping and turning around with every pass as you are doing now. You will be amazed at how much time you cut off of your mowing time by not stopping and turning into the next pass & not slowing down. I think that if you are not cutting at a speed of 4-5 mph. Your tractor is too small for the type or size cutter that you re using. 1 mph less speed with a 5’ cutter cost you 2/3 of an acre less cut area an hour. For my money, overall Maintence cost, weight & required tractor HP the rotary cutter is the only way to go. Great video and look at the pros & cons of the flail mower! 👍👍
1) If the goal is mowing, you are correct. If the goal is mulching to the ground, then the whole purpose of flail mowing is flailing the cutter against the brush and against the ground. This becomes a poor mans forestry mulcher, as long as the stumps are smaller than 2", 3", or whatever power you have.
2a) Doubling back (1st pass is cut, 2nd pass is mulch to ground) is a technique used to mulch, where the goal is mulching. cutting and mulching often can't be done in the same pass. Forestry mulching is usually done with a forward rotating drum to cut, and mulch works better going backwards with forward rotation, as many times as it takes the grass, weeds, sticks, or samplings to be shredded to desired consistency.
2b) Also remember the guy has a camera to please. The camera is not moving. He's demonstrating within those limits, the pass with lazy radius goes off camera :)
It looks like mowing is your goal, while I have a skid steer mower and need no mowing help. Taller grass would be hay or pastured. Anything else up to 1" is find for my finish mower :) and anything else could be done with a brush cutter. None of those implements mulch stumps to forest floor or prairie floor. Brush cutter is 2", lift the wheel and go lower, but then mowing height is subject to bumps.
The only reason I have this is for mulching, and sometimes it takes 1 pass and sometimes 10. This is all better than whacking 1" - 2" prickly ash or buckthorn and feeding it through a chipper. Brush cut if necessary, and then mulch to the floor with many passes with the flail. If you have a $150,000 skid steer and forestry mulcher, more power to you, but this is my tool.
Hammer Knives for me, side knives work better for grass.
I went to the Maschio site and the top link attachment point is slotted for free play and flexability
Yeah, it kind of floats which has advantages, but I’m trying to decide if I like it that way
A flail mower is very likely my next "large" purchase for my tractor. Thanks for this video.
Are you still happy with that Piranha Tooth Bar on your bucket?
I think the next "real world" test will be green vegetation that is growing and sappy, it'll show a better horse power requirement comparison versus a rotary cutter
I assume not, since you didn't do it, but for a job that size are there any benefits to going to the trouble of removing the front end loader? Is there some larger size job where that to would make sense?
I’ll answer as I have a 2 series tractor with the 220 loader…. I can take the loader of in less than 2-3 minutes. Installs just as quick. It gives me more maneuverability and don’t have to worry about running into stuff as much… and less weight … steers easier too . That being said…. If I don’t know the land, there could be hidden stumps or trash… so I run with the bucket as low as I can without dragging , in order to help feel for obstacles
@@rgd2598 Thanks. That's some good info.
guys, i prefer a fire lane and a burn on that stuff, but thats just me
I'm still waiting to see the brush get cut. There is very little if any brush being cut here. In one of the pictures after the camera fell there is actually some brush and the flail didn't cut it . hahhah
Drugs are bad. I cut a full 10 acres of brush. I have no idea what you are trying to say.
I've got a test for it! LOL
Yes sir. It does not necessarily handle bigger material that well, but 2 inch and below it mulches and pulverizes.
@@RockhillfarmYT will it get rid of the stobs sticking up and making the ground smoother
If anyone sees that cut they won't be happy with anything else!