Post Processing FDM Prints: How to Remove those Nasty Layer Lines
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2024
- Skip the Struggle, Embrace the Ease! Enhance Your Models with my Eye Decals: evoxstudios.etsy.com
In this video I'm showing you the methods, tools and products I use for the whole FDM post processing work flow.There are hunderts of other ways to come to the same result of course, it's just the way I like it most.
Check out @MMsPropShop's videos here: / @mmspropshop
If you want to know which projects I'm currently working on for future videos:📸 - IG: / evolutionx_. . 
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Great tips Frank! For sure need to try some of these. Thank you for sharing
Thank you Jerry!
Thanks dude!
Thanks for watching!
Sold my FDM printer, went all resin, heard printing in other materials like HIPS or PETG are easier to sand.
Hey ELXS
Wow that sure is a lot of work, it is good to have an idea what you go through. I have liked all of your projects...any Batman coming up?🦇😉
Take care😊
Thank you Tim! I have already printed 4 Batman bases that are waiting for their Batman so yes - a lot of Batmen coming up ;)
@@evolutionxstudios
You are welcome.
Sounds awesome 🦇🙂
I love that stupid foot sander so much for FDM prints that I ordered a second one so I wouldn't have to change out grits, just one with low grit and the other with high grit....LOL....great tips, still need to try the apoxie sculpt
It really is a great tool to have! And that’s pretty smart since changing the pads is not really convenient
Hey brother, i wanted you to know that your videos inspired me to buy a resin printer this black friday. Its a little pricey. What do you think about the Mono 6k for a first timer? Thank you again and i look forward to more of your videos. You are literally the best in youtube. Thanks!
man this comment made my day, thank you so much! I'm not a big fan of Anycubic printers because I heard a lot that there customer service is zero when you have problems with them. Elegoo on the other hand has a pretty good customer service. But if the printer runs, it should be a good one.
Great tips, thanks!
- A tip of my own to pass on, from the woodworking world: Use superglue instead of tape to hold the parts together until the epoxy cures, at least on larger parts. Leave a few gaps in the epoxy, dab a tiny bit of superglue on one side and activator on the other and press them together. The superglue will hold everything in place while the epoxy cures, and the bond is strong enough that you can even handle the part (gently) while it’s curing.
This is less generally-applicable with 3D printing than woodworking because woodworking parts are so usually much bigger that there’s plenty of space for both the superglue and wood glue, but it should work fine for larger 3D prints. Over reasonable-sized areas, the epoxy bond is going to be stronger than the plastic anyway, so a little area lost to the superglue won’t make much difference in the ultimate strength. (And even if it becomes brittle with time, the superglue will still contribute to the overall strength.)
A great and very useful vid, thanks!
(I do very little painting of things I print, but I nonetheless learned a lot from some of your other videos: I’d never heard about using varnishes to make it easier to touch-up paint details before, what a game-changer! 🤯)
Thanks mate! I already used super glue + wood glue for woodworking too. Good hint using epoxy + super glue for 3D printed parts too!