Great method for smoothing DWD. One suggestion I have for everyone is to use a tracer coat on the primer. It takes the guess work out of low spots and pin holes. Just get red or black primer and put a dust coat on top of your last coat of filler primer. When you start to sand, any high spots will burn through the tracer coat immediately, then any low spots will stay the tracer color. This is an old body shop trick that has been around for years. It really, really helps you get a great finish and no surprises when you go to paint.
Great tip as always, I’ve mentioned this is previous videos since most primers are grey any matte or flat paint/primer that’s darker on top will work. Always appreciate the pro insight!
@@Darkwingdad Keep up the great work!! Honestly, one of the better channels I've found. No BS, doesn't reiterate the same techniques over and over, and provides experimental proof of concept for new techniques.
just yesterday I tried the other putty with acetone on a biker scout helmet and I will say it worked pretty dang well, so will give this one a try too, still have the dome to do
If you ever have a print that does not have a lot of fine details, you can experiment with thinning bondo with “Honey” or even yet polyester resin. You’ll want to add the same amount of hardener as you would and you’d also want to add the same amount of MEKP that you would for the amount of resin added. Then brush it on very generously and it will self level. Pinhole from thermo runoff of drying too fast or not at all is all practice. The ICING bondo glaze DOES crack it too thickly applied, even if it was in separate applications bcs it does not have enough solids but that’s to make it easy to sand. I used to make my personal mixture when I used to build custom interiors and the job ever came back for any repairs or failures.
Have you tried adding water to wood filler like the spot putty method? I do it quite a bit, it sands super easy and has no odor except for the normal wood putty smell. It works great on filling seams at a little thicker consistency. I'll also put wood putty on seams and other hard to fill areas and smooth it with a brush and water. Works great. You should give it a try if you haven't yet. Love your videos DW, keep em coming
Wood putty is water based so you can add water to it. This however isn’t, so adding water to it will simply make volatile agents less stable & cause adverse reactions. IPA is the other option but acetone works by far the best.
I think darkwing thinks you were asking adding water to the upol. I was thinking if trying this method with woodfiller and water as well. your comment is encouraging, I will try it tonite w. both water based silica and acrylic.
Tried this and it came out pretty great. I didn’t use UPOL Dolphin putty. I tried Kombo Putty which was supposed to be similar but I did see some tiny cracks so I ordered the Dolphin putty. Just gotta wait a week or so for it to be delivered.
I just got done recommending aerosol primers to a forum member and first thing on my YT I see this video lol 😄.. U-POL does make good cheap stuff! We used to use Kombi at the Mannheim Auto Auction body shop department.
On the 1rst layer I recommend going perpendicular with your layer lines. Going parallel can let the brush fall in between the lines. Thanks for the video.
Your prints are amazing. Stumbled across your channel a few days looking into silk printing. My question(s) for you are what is your go to printer and slicer for most if not all of your prints? Is there one or two different types/ models you prefer?
You can smooth PLA glass smooth by using acetone as a heat transfer. It takes seconds though you need a bit more setup then when smoothing abs with acetone due to the differences. I can go through the steps to do it if interested.
I am familiar with vapor smoothing with acetone. It’s ok but it often tends to lose definition & I think for most people it’s something they don’t really want to mess with. I’m personally not a fan of it but to each thee own. I can get pieces smooth so fast using this method I prefer doing this over anything.
Just make sure it's 100% sealed with laqure after your base coat! Being acrylic anything that touches it acetone, water ipa etc without ot sealed in it will reactivate and go soft and you could get a finger dint or print in it! I work with this stuff everyday it's grast for time and dry time but it jisy doesn't have that total curing mind at ease rigidity you'll find this with stuff if your making masks etc and wearing them out like some do with iron man masks haha! I work with this in my work as a body work specialist alot of pros and cons
100% correct, that’s why I mentioned bondo primer which lacquer based. Of course you could let it gas & fully cure but most won’t wait a week or more. I always appreciate auto body specialists chiming in. I started off building custom boxes & worked in repair, I still work in refinishing & restoration & it’s crazy how far we’ve come since bondo & rage gold the last 15 years
I apologize if this is a dumb question, but what benefit do you gain from using the glazing putty before filler primer? Does it just do a better job of filling the slightly bigger imperfections and layer lines? I found that if I sand the really bad layer lines, then put a thick coat of filler primer on, sand with 400 grit after dry, then put another coat of filler on and sand again, most of the issues are resolved.
@@dustinroberson1865 less sanding, faster turnaround & fills in imperfections faster. Filler primer is great but it’s not a 1 & done method. If that’s all your using you’re wasting time & over sanding the model.
Thank you for going through this experimentation on our behalf. I'm in the UK, and Upol Dolphin is readily available here (at a reasonable price for the home user).
@@Darkwingdad Your 'bad weather' event is pretty much a daily, all day, thing for us 😀. 'Making Season' for these kinds of outdoor spraying projects is basically June, July and August. That's why I do a lot of electronics and miniatures during the other 9 months.
The coverage and consistency of that compound mix is amazing - it lays down almost completely flat, without a rigid applicator! I know that acetone can denature other chemicals, so I wonder about the longterm adhesion and rigidity. Gotta try this - thanks.
I know too much acetone can affect talc that’s why I wanted to test this being acrylic. I’ve had no bad reaction or lifting from the fantastic or 1k putty. Than again I had no issues using bondo putty either. Only time will tell but I feel based on its composition of solvents it should hold up well.
@@anthonymiller5590 no you want this www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-Acetone-1-Quart/17208793?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2533&adid=2222222227817208793_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-294505072980&wl5=9011684&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=17208793&wl13=2533&veh=sem_LIA&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIo6Rrtqt5MZi_Luc489hwdv4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4mlfVuhCAbosYDnQ_syqYRTofCtqGz23LET7n7NHWgYT-LqLhWTYs4aAhhtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Excellent video and instructions. I'd prefer music that is more chill, it would be less grating when there's dialogue / silence straight after, but at the same time it's your video and you decide; I appreciate that you shared it all so well. Great technique and result. New sub 🤙🎉🌿
@@DarkwingdadCool mate. Your music taste is dope, my feedback is simply technical, to try to improve the good "flow"in editing. It's like when people upgrade their audio mics and get good shotguns or lavs; they forget to add an ambient room tone back into the edit ( without which it's so perfect it feels wrong! )
That looks a nice quick way to smooth 3D prints! I can't seem to get that particular brand of Upol Dolphin putty in the UK, the nearest I can get is "DOLPHIN U-Pol 200g 1K RFU STOPPER Ultra Smooth Acrylic Putty". Might be worth a try though as it seems pretty cheap, so I'll order that, plus some Acetone :-)
As a follow up, the stuff came today. Dead easy to brush on the Upol 1K stopper thinned with acetone, and it dries in minutes, letting me do a few coats. A half hour so later, I'm sanding with wet and dry! :-)
@@Darkwingdad Thank you. I had tried using "knifing putty" thinned with laquer thinners, but never had as good results as I'm having with this Acrylic 1K putty and Acetone, which is also a less smelly combination!
Definitely a game changer! The bondo filler primer is no longer available but if you want email me & I can send you a can! As long as we get away from the rustoleum 2 in 1 lol I watched your video awhile ago thinking “he’s got more patience than me waiting for that stuff to cure” lol love your channel btw!
Great Video, thanks for the tips. I cant seem to find this in EU. I think its the same product but they are calling it "upol 1k Stopper" Packaging is the same and product description so...
Hey have you tried automotive glazes? U-pol makes dolphin glaze and gold glaze(lighter weight?), and a dolphin speed glaze you can sand in 6-8 minutes. The TDS says they have the same or more solids than regular dolphin or the 1k, so they don't just have more thinner? I wondered how well they would self level. You have probably researched this with your recent videos, but it is new to me.
Those require hardeners, and although they are good for big flat panels they are still fillers at heart & take more effort to sand. I am a upol fan though, they make great products
That's amazing, I've been struggling a lot with sanding, I used a lot of two part car putty but it was really hard to sand down(impossible with hand), took a lot of time and also there were a lot of holes and air sacks, would it work with any acrylic putty tho? Since I am from Europe can't exactly get my hands on that stuff
Gonna have to try this. Liking the upol fantasic, and helps I can get it for 4 bucks a tube. Im sure I can order this new one for same price. (work at Oriellys) So I get a huge discount. Unfortunately here in Washington state, its nothing but rain, snow, hail still here in April. So waiting for weather to turn to get outside and start priming, sanding and painting. Not good to do in my garage with all my 3d printers and computer. Dust is horrible.
This is similar to fantastic but dries a lot quicker & fills a bit better. Both are killer, getting for $4….damn even better! Glad you are liking it, o’reillys has a ton of stuff you can use in finishing. I’m guessing your a duplicolor filler primer guy eh? Lol
Or you could use upol reface if you can use a paint gun. It's thin sprayable body filler. If you do it right the only sanding you would need to do is roughing up the surface for the reface to stick and a light sand for primer/ paint to stick to the reface
Except people may not have a place to put a compressor. Or an hvlp gun, or a place to spray it. Or clean it up, or just the time it take set up,clean up etc. and the cost! Reface,slicksand,featherfill are all over $130 for a gallon. Trust me I’ve used/use them they are great products but there are more cons than pros the using sprayable body fillers for most builders. This method is light years faster & way more efficient.
Thanks for the video. On Ebay I can find a U-Pol product called "U-Pol 1K Stopper - Ultra Smooth Acrylic Putty", is this the same product but with a diffferent name ?
The only way acetone will damage pla,petg or abs is if you suffocate the model or engulf the piece in a vat of acetone. In this method it evaporates so quick no damage will occur. Bondo putty & all aerosols contain thinners & acetone too, they don’t damage the plastics & niether will this. Your safe :)
@@Darkwingdad Grand. Might try it on my next prop (having just used mostly knifing putty and milliput to finish a proton pack). Love the idea of painting on a thin layer, and also much easier to see your coverage clearly too.
"3D Printed Props" sprays a coat of filler primer first _before_ brushing the prop with glazing putty (he also applies another coat of filler primer afterwards). Would you recommend this step (1st coat of filler primer over the sanded PLA) too or advise against it, and why? Because I see here that you start directly by brushing the thinned putty over the sanded PLA, and spray the filler primer later on only.
Doing a coat of primer first to me is pointless. Regardless the print has layer lines and defects that need filling in which putty will do substantially better off the bat. I personally never have done that nor will I. HOWEVER, applying thinned putty on top of primer after a round or two of sanding/priming on heavily affected areas is a method I use. I highlight it in my wolverine build seen here ruclips.net/video/cCrznz7lA7Y/видео.htmlsi=62hI4dCH25gsGYjT
Perfectly fine on abs. It will only effect abs & warp it if you suffocate it in acetone. When people use the acetone in a vat or container understand it’s constantly being exposed to vapors. This method the acetone evaporates in 30 seconds to a minute. No harm will be done bc acetone evaporates so quickly. Same thing with primers, primers & paint contain acetone & thinners which do not effect the abs bc it gases & evaporates so quickly.
Hey! love your content and your advice! Unfortunately, I live in France and I can't seem to find this product here. Can you or anyone advice me an equivalent please?
@@Darkwingdad Thank you! I'm in Sweden and couldn't find what you recommend (not for a reasonable price, delivery was 3x the cost of the product). Nothing from Bondo either. But I can get Tamiya!
I'm interested in trying this, but I am wondering if another thinner, such as mineral spirits, could be used instead? I print a lot of my cosplay pieces in ASA and I don't want the acetone to dissolve the material.
Mineral spirits will not work. That only works on petroleum based products. Understand acetone is already in primers & puttys, it evaporates rapidly, the same as if you were applying an aerosol. It will 100% not eat away at asa or other plastics unless you soaked it in a vat of acetone. Huge misconception people have of acetone, it’s in everything we already use, a-ok to use this method.
When sealed would this be safe to use on a mask? I worry about the fumes with my head being enclosed by the mask and faux fur, I sprayed something else with filler primer and it smells bad. Didn’t paint or seal it however
They’re 2 completely different product. Ease of use & simplicity raptor 1k. Better filling upol 1k. I have a video showing how good the raptor 1k works with filler primer. It is a great combo
I have a friend who works at a bodyshop and gave me a big pouch of U-pol Dolphine glaze UPO714 ultra fine finishing glaze would it work the same just don't add the hardener or would I still have to add it
No it still needs the hardener. You can add a filler honey to it to make it thinner but it’s not quite the same as this. It is a great filler for gaps & deep imperfections.
@@damienmoreau3859 I was able to use upols fantastic putty in a mini hvlp. I will have a video soon showing it in an airbrush. I’m also going to show/test liquitex as well.
You don’t need to wetsand any filler or putty nor should you. Only time you should be wetsanding is after your final primer before paint & after clear coat to reduce orange peel.
We are going to have to agree to disagree on that one. The only real purpose of wet sanding is to provide a lubricant so it doesn't cut as roughly. I've a whole packet of the stuff ranging from 400 to 1200. I always wet sand where I can for the reason that you are not putting harmful dust into your work atomsphere. Yes, with acrylic it tends to delaminate it, but everything else is good to go in my experience.
@@chrisjhart to each there own but you did express issues when you wetsanded & I explained why it’s happening-your adding excessive & reactant solute to the substrate. Following automotive body repair (which are all the products I use & demonstrate with) wetsanding isn’t recommended or used. Dust is something you have to deal with, that’s what ppe is for. I’ve had zero issues pyramiding my grits dry, the dust I just deal with 🤷🏻♂️ I’m just demonstrating what professionals used & have used in automotive restoration & what works in my methods. There’s methods & products that others use that I never would, at the end of the day I guess if it’s working for you roll with it. Difference of opinions are like hairs in your head, & unless your bald theres too many to count.
Are we not allowed to wet sand anymore when using this product since I saw in the comments, when it comes into contact with certain liquids it can go soft?
There’s no reason you should ever wetsand putty. There’s literally no reason for it & it’s a waste of time. Sanding this with 320/400 will leave it perfectly smooth & a filler primer will fill in any minor sanding imperfections. The only time you should wetsand is A) your primer before paint if it feels rough or b) clear coat to remove orange peel
Hey man, by any chance do you play in the adult hockey league? I’m pretty sure I ref where you play. Small world I got into making cosplay two years ago by doing a mandalorian costume and a Bo Katan costume I started 3-D printing myself a couple months ago prior to that I was buying 3-D prints at finishing them. I’ve used your videos to help with that.
I do, unless your the ref with glasses I’ve never yelled at you lol glad the videos are helping. I wanted to 3D print a puck in petg and see how long it lasts….get me 10 extra minutes of ice let’s make it happen lol
this is a little bit of a bed question. I can make these pieces and they are smooth all over but where it attaches to the bed. I get a very textured bottom which ruins it compared to how smooth i can get the sides and top. You have any suggestions?
Pretty much the same as every acrylic based putty in the scale model market I use! The enamel based one is great with IPA it works the same sort of way water would also work the same probably better if it's full acrylic based putty acetone is something I'd use last IPA would be better for the plastic than acetone, Dulux materials acrylic putty is the best on the market bar non every modelers go to really
IPA doesn’t dilute this as prominently & there’s absolutely no reason to think the acetone is going to affect thermo plastics in small amounts. Acetone is already in numerous puttys along with thinner. Both are in primers & paints & have no adverse affects due to rapid evaporation rates.
@@Darkwingdad I wouldn't recommend using acetone in combinations with ABS, as ABS can be dissolved in Acetone, Just like those "smoothing vapor chamber" for ABS 3D prints. And indeed, both are being used in paints, adhesives, etc. without issue's ;-)
@@NK_Customs total different when you are suffocating the model in acetone vs it evaporating in seconds with whats shown here. I’ve tested pla,petg & abs & there’s no issues. Remember, acetones,ketones & lacquer are all in aerosols & primers, so saying not to use this method is like saying don’t use spray paints. Any plastic you leave in a vat of acetone or vapor smooth it with no escape from it it’ll damage. But as stated this dries & evaporates in seconds. No issues here.
This would have been great to use on my engineering prototype and just sand it at 400 grit... I wish they had a clear version of this so I don't need to paint the model (example: Black ABS) and it would be smooth.
@@Darkwingdad I do have some XTC-3D epoxy from Smooth-On, but I've never thinned it with acetone and it unfortunately has a 5-7 minute pot life. Also, it alters the fit tolerances
@@Darkwingdad I will have to look into acrylic resins that allow me to smooth it onto a part and sand it easily. Just need to ensure it's clear. I actually stopped using XTC because of the dry time and difficulty with sanding
Is this unsafe inside the house? I just used bando putty and wore a mask but it is stinking up my entire house even though i did it in the window sill with a open window. I feel bad for my pets
@@MarcoNoPolo it’s solvent based, plus your thinning it with a heavier solvent in acetone which accelerates curing. Got about 5 helmets of my own where I’ve used this method and 50+ for others, no issues and didn’t shrink.
@@MarcoNoPolo definitely a nice option, I’ve used a few including the popular featherfill & slick sand just the clean up sucks lol and not everyone has a compressor or set up to use it.
Are you still recommending this product these days? Also, what are your thoughts about spraying this like your videos about spraying the bondo putty? Thanks!
No, this isn’t acetone smoothing. The acetone dilutes the putty making it more soluble so it can be brushed on. It evaporates so fast though it dries the putty in minutes and than can be sanded.
![Jack Harlow - Hello Miss Johnson [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Q86_nlRoIGw/mqdefault.jpg)
Great method for smoothing DWD. One suggestion I have for everyone is to use a tracer coat on the primer. It takes the guess work out of low spots and pin holes. Just get red or black primer and put a dust coat on top of your last coat of filler primer. When you start to sand, any high spots will burn through the tracer coat immediately, then any low spots will stay the tracer color. This is an old body shop trick that has been around for years. It really, really helps you get a great finish and no surprises when you go to paint.
Great tip as always, I’ve mentioned this is previous videos since most primers are grey any matte or flat paint/primer that’s darker on top will work. Always appreciate the pro insight!
Time is money. And trying to optimize post-processing is so critical when it comes to finishing 3d props. Really appreciate you!
Thanks man, just trying to make everyone’s life easier, one layer at a time!
@@Darkwingdad Keep up the great work!! Honestly, one of the better channels I've found. No BS, doesn't reiterate the same techniques over and over, and provides experimental proof of concept for new techniques.
@@secritsquirrel4994 I really appreciate that man, thanks!
I watched a video a few weeks back of someone using a card scraper to get their prints smooth. Since then that's been my go to to smooth things out.
For big panels & non intricate pieces it’s ok but it often causes gouges, you can’t clean up crevices & still rely heavily on puttys & fillers.
just yesterday I tried the other putty with acetone on a biker scout helmet and I will say it worked pretty dang well, so will give this one a try too, still have the dome to do
Awesome, great to hear!
I'm printing a RX-78 Gundam. This video is what I needed. Thank you for show how to use the product.
No problem! Good luck on the build!
I had the same issues with the Bondo Glazing Putty!
I'm excited to try this instead!
If you ever have a print that does not have a lot of fine details, you can experiment with thinning bondo with “Honey” or even yet polyester resin. You’ll want to add the same amount of hardener as you would and you’d also want to add the same amount of MEKP that you would for the amount of resin added. Then brush it on very generously and it will self level. Pinhole from thermo runoff of drying too fast or not at all is all practice. The ICING bondo glaze DOES crack it too thickly applied, even if it was in separate applications bcs it does not have enough solids but that’s to make it easy to sand. I used to make my personal mixture when I used to build custom interiors and the job ever came back for any repairs or failures.
Have you tried adding water to wood filler like the spot putty method? I do it quite a bit, it sands super easy and has no odor except for the normal wood putty smell. It works great on filling seams at a little thicker consistency. I'll also put wood putty on seams and other hard to fill areas and smooth it with a brush and water. Works great. You should give it a try if you haven't yet. Love your videos DW, keep em coming
Wood putty is water based so you can add water to it. This however isn’t, so adding water to it will simply make volatile agents less stable & cause adverse reactions. IPA is the other option but acetone works by far the best.
I think darkwing thinks you were asking adding water to the upol. I was thinking if trying this method with woodfiller and water as well. your comment is encouraging, I will try it tonite w. both water based silica and acrylic.
Cheers boss! Thanks for providing new methods and pushing the hobby forward!
Anytime! Thanks for watching!
Done and done. Purchased today. Thanks
Just got into 3d printing and your video got randomly recommended. Suffice to say I'm subscribed!
Nice nice nice you are always a plus for the 3D printing world ! Keep up the great work.
Thanks Abe, preciste that my dude!
Oh man I’m going to order some of that!
It’s awesome stuff, if you have a hard time getting it shoot me a message I’ll hook you up. FYI you can spray it just like the bondo!
Thanks for the Vid - I'll be ready to give this a try shortly...
Niceee!
looks like a great technique. cool watching your hone the skill and seeing the progress and the payout of all the testing you've done.
Thanks for the comment Ryan, much appreciated!
Awesome technique. Will definitely try it on my prints.
Love your music choice as well!
You will love this!
Thanks, seems like I’ll never get to showcase my full playlist…guess I gotta make a lot more videos lol
Tried this and it came out pretty great. I didn’t use UPOL Dolphin putty. I tried Kombo Putty which was supposed to be similar but I did see some tiny cracks so I ordered the Dolphin putty. Just gotta wait a week or so for it to be delivered.
If you see cracks it means your dilution is off, was your paste thick or thin after you mixed it?
seems like a really nice method, gotta try, Thanks !
You’ll love it, def a time saver!
I just got done recommending aerosol primers to a forum member and first thing on my YT I see this video lol 😄.. U-POL does make good cheap stuff! We used to use Kombi at the Mannheim Auto Auction body shop department.
Upol has always made great stuff im unsure of it’s availability overseas
WOW! This is it.
Such a great, effective and forgiving method.
On the 1rst layer I recommend going perpendicular with your layer lines. Going parallel can let the brush fall in between the lines.
Thanks for the video.
With this method the second coat reactivates it and works it in but going with the grain can definitely be beneficial, thanks for the input on that.
Your prints are amazing. Stumbled across your channel a few days looking into silk printing. My question(s) for you are what is your go to printer and slicer for most if not all of your prints? Is there one or two different types/ models you prefer?
For standard prints I like Bowden fdm printers user cura
For klipper I love my k1 max & orca slicer
You can smooth PLA glass smooth by using acetone as a heat transfer. It takes seconds though you need a bit more setup then when smoothing abs with acetone due to the differences. I can go through the steps to do it if interested.
I am familiar with vapor smoothing with acetone. It’s ok but it often tends to lose definition & I think for most people it’s something they don’t really want to mess with. I’m personally not a fan of it but to each thee own. I can get pieces smooth so fast using this method I prefer doing this over anything.
Just make sure it's 100% sealed with laqure after your base coat! Being acrylic anything that touches it acetone, water ipa etc without ot sealed in it will reactivate and go soft and you could get a finger dint or print in it! I work with this stuff everyday it's grast for time and dry time but it jisy doesn't have that total curing mind at ease rigidity you'll find this with stuff if your making masks etc and wearing them out like some do with iron man masks haha! I work with this in my work as a body work specialist alot of pros and cons
100% correct, that’s why I mentioned bondo primer which lacquer based. Of course you could let it gas & fully cure but most won’t wait a week or more. I always appreciate auto body specialists chiming in. I started off building custom boxes & worked in repair, I still work in refinishing & restoration & it’s crazy how far we’ve come since bondo & rage gold the last 15 years
That looks great. It's been a LONG time since I've seen a product that I haven't tried and this seems fantastic. Thanks for sharing!!!
Anytime man!
I apologize if this is a dumb question, but what benefit do you gain from using the glazing putty before filler primer? Does it just do a better job of filling the slightly bigger imperfections and layer lines? I found that if I sand the really bad layer lines, then put a thick coat of filler primer on, sand with 400 grit after dry, then put another coat of filler on and sand again, most of the issues are resolved.
@@dustinroberson1865 less sanding, faster turnaround & fills in imperfections faster. Filler primer is great but it’s not a 1 & done method. If that’s all your using you’re wasting time & over sanding the model.
Love your videos and the attention to detail you put in your work - just perfect!
I appreciate it, thank you!
Thank you for going through this experimentation on our behalf. I'm in the UK, and Upol Dolphin is readily available here (at a reasonable price for the home user).
Anytime! Glad you can grab it, it’s a great product!
@@Darkwingdad Your 'bad weather' event is pretty much a daily, all day, thing for us 😀. 'Making Season' for these kinds of outdoor spraying projects is basically June, July and August. That's why I do a lot of electronics and miniatures during the other 9 months.
@@beachcomberbob3496 you should watch my video from august, my house got struck by lightning ⚡️
The coverage and consistency of that compound mix is amazing - it lays down almost completely flat, without a rigid applicator! I know that acetone can denature other chemicals, so I wonder about the longterm adhesion and rigidity. Gotta try this - thanks.
I know too much acetone can affect talc that’s why I wanted to test this being acrylic. I’ve had no bad reaction or lifting from the fantastic or 1k putty. Than again I had no issues using bondo putty either. Only time will tell but I feel based on its composition of solvents it should hold up well.
@@Darkwingdad what type of acetone do you use?
@@anthonymiller5590 klean strip
@@Darkwingdad the can that’s label brush cleaner?
@@anthonymiller5590 no you want this www.walmart.com/ip/Klean-Strip-Acetone-1-Quart/17208793?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2533&adid=2222222227817208793_117755028669_12420145346&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=501107745824&wl4=pla-294505072980&wl5=9011684&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=17208793&wl13=2533&veh=sem_LIA&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIo6Rrtqt5MZi_Luc489hwdv4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7GnBhDXARIsAFLvH4mlfVuhCAbosYDnQ_syqYRTofCtqGz23LET7n7NHWgYT-LqLhWTYs4aAhhtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Appreciate all that you do and share!
Thanks for watching!
Does this work on PETG or just PLA? Thx in advance - great vids!
Excellent video and instructions. I'd prefer music that is more chill, it would be less grating when there's dialogue / silence straight after, but at the same time it's your video and you decide; I appreciate that you shared it all so well. Great technique and result. New sub 🤙🎉🌿
I’m getting better at commentary & music selection no harm in open feedback, I appreciate it!
@@DarkwingdadCool mate. Your music taste is dope, my feedback is simply technical, to try to improve the good "flow"in editing. It's like when people upgrade their audio mics and get good shotguns or lavs; they forget to add an ambient room tone back into the edit ( without which it's so perfect it feels wrong! )
@@DanVogt I appreciate bro! Definitely something I can improve on, thanks!
This is awesome! Thanks man! I do wonder if the filler woild work with silicone molding the piece..i know bondo inhibits silicone molding
You definitely could use the upol as it is a poly filler
cool videos and cool hustle you have man. thanks for the info and keep doing what you are doing. 🤙
Appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching!
Thank you for this info, I am so new I am still waiting for my 3D printer to arrive 😂
Let me know when it arrives, what did you get?
That looks a nice quick way to smooth 3D prints! I can't seem to get that particular brand of Upol Dolphin putty in the UK, the nearest I can get is "DOLPHIN U-Pol 200g 1K RFU STOPPER Ultra Smooth Acrylic Putty". Might be worth a try though as it seems pretty cheap, so I'll order that, plus some Acetone :-)
Stopper is the same stuff as the 1k for UK based. Works the same way so your good using that!
@@Darkwingdad Good stuff. Hopefully I'll get it from Amazon tomorrow :-)
As a follow up, the stuff came today. Dead easy to brush on the Upol 1K stopper thinned with acetone, and it dries in minutes, letting me do a few coats. A half hour so later, I'm sanding with wet and dry! :-)
@@briansrcadventures1316 BOOM! best method & results, glad it’s working for you!
@@Darkwingdad Thank you. I had tried using "knifing putty" thinned with laquer thinners, but never had as good results as I'm having with this Acrylic 1K putty and Acetone, which is also a less smelly combination!
Nice. I need to try this.
Definitely a game changer! The bondo filler primer is no longer available but if you want email me & I can send you a can! As long as we get away from the rustoleum 2 in 1 lol I watched your video awhile ago thinking “he’s got more patience than me waiting for that stuff to cure” lol love your channel btw!
Great Video, thanks for the tips.
I cant seem to find this in EU. I think its the same product but they are calling it "upol 1k Stopper" Packaging is the same and product description so...
Yes 1k stopper is the EU version, they always gotta make it confusing lol
Thanks for the great tips!!
Anytime!
awesome video bud!!
Thanks!
Very helpful video, I will definitely try this. I do want to ask what plastic your part was printed from?
It’s war machine arm cannon piece
What plastic was it made from (PLA, ABS...)?
@@Darkwingdad
@@MrItsthething pla
Hey have you tried automotive glazes? U-pol makes dolphin glaze and gold glaze(lighter weight?), and a dolphin speed glaze you can sand in 6-8 minutes. The TDS says they have the same or more solids than regular dolphin or the 1k, so they don't just have more thinner? I wondered how well they would self level. You have probably researched this with your recent videos, but it is new to me.
Those require hardeners, and although they are good for big flat panels they are still fillers at heart & take more effort to sand. I am a upol fan though, they make great products
Subbed. Massive effort!
That's amazing, I've been struggling a lot with sanding, I used a lot of two part car putty but it was really hard to sand down(impossible with hand), took a lot of time and also there were a lot of holes and air sacks, would it work with any acrylic putty tho? Since I am from Europe can't exactly get my hands on that stuff
As long as it’s a 1 part putty it should. However I have a video dropping using liquitex you’ll want to watch since it’s widely available overseas
Gonna have to try this. Liking the upol fantasic, and helps I can get it for 4 bucks a tube. Im sure I can order this new one for same price. (work at Oriellys) So I get a huge discount. Unfortunately here in Washington state, its nothing but rain, snow, hail still here in April. So waiting for weather to turn to get outside and start priming, sanding and painting. Not good to do in my garage with all my 3d printers and computer. Dust is horrible.
This is similar to fantastic but dries a lot quicker & fills a bit better. Both are killer, getting for $4….damn even better! Glad you are liking it, o’reillys has a ton of stuff you can use in finishing. I’m guessing your a duplicolor filler primer guy eh? Lol
@@Darkwingdad Yes sir, at 5 bucks a can, cant beat it. I would use Bondo primer but we dont carry it.
Or you could use upol reface if you can use a paint gun. It's thin sprayable body filler. If you do it right the only sanding you would need to do is roughing up the surface for the reface to stick and a light sand for primer/ paint to stick to the reface
Except people may not have a place to put a compressor. Or an hvlp gun, or a place to spray it. Or clean it up, or just the time it take set up,clean up etc. and the cost! Reface,slicksand,featherfill are all over $130 for a gallon.
Trust me I’ve used/use them they are great products but there are more cons than pros the using sprayable body fillers for most builders. This method is light years faster & way more efficient.
Thanks for the video. On Ebay I can find a U-Pol product called "U-Pol 1K Stopper - Ultra Smooth Acrylic Putty", is this the same product but with a diffferent name ?
Yes if in UK 1k stopper is the same product & dolphin 1k
Have you tried this with ABS? I'm curious whether the acetone thinning would just wreck the plastic, or result in a better bond.
The only way acetone will damage pla,petg or abs is if you suffocate the model or engulf the piece in a vat of acetone. In this method it evaporates so quick no damage will occur. Bondo putty & all aerosols contain thinners & acetone too, they don’t damage the plastics & niether will this. Your safe :)
@@Darkwingdad Grand. Might try it on my next prop (having just used mostly knifing putty and milliput to finish a proton pack). Love the idea of painting on a thin layer, and also much easier to see your coverage clearly too.
"3D Printed Props" sprays a coat of filler primer first _before_ brushing the prop with glazing putty (he also applies another coat of filler primer afterwards). Would you recommend this step (1st coat of filler primer over the sanded PLA) too or advise against it, and why? Because I see here that you start directly by brushing the thinned putty over the sanded PLA, and spray the filler primer later on only.
Doing a coat of primer first to me is pointless. Regardless the print has layer lines and defects that need filling in which putty will do substantially better off the bat. I personally never have done that nor will I. HOWEVER, applying thinned putty on top of primer after a round or two of sanding/priming on heavily affected areas is a method I use. I highlight it in my wolverine build seen here ruclips.net/video/cCrznz7lA7Y/видео.htmlsi=62hI4dCH25gsGYjT
Will this stretch with the 2:1 ratio? Or would you say you would run through this fairly quickly with helmets? Great video btw
You can do 3-4 helmets with a tube no problem
Gonna give this a try. Would this method be safe to use on ABS prints, since u are using acetone as thinning agent?
Perfectly fine on abs. It will only effect abs & warp it if you suffocate it in acetone. When people use the acetone in a vat or container understand it’s constantly being exposed to vapors. This method the acetone evaporates in 30 seconds to a minute. No harm will be done bc acetone evaporates so quickly. Same thing with primers, primers & paint contain acetone & thinners which do not effect the abs bc it gases & evaporates so quickly.
Does the upol chip at all? Also what do you suggest to use for filling in gaps over this? I figured body filler ?
You can use this for bigger gaps, but body filler if better. You want to use a body filler first, putty second.
nice tips thanks for sharing
any idea for something similar in the EU? What qualities and contents am I looking for?
Looking some stuff up now for ya I’ll send links
Any news on this? 😂
Hey! love your content and your advice!
Unfortunately, I live in France and I can't seem to find this product here.
Can you or anyone advice me an equivalent please?
Is Tamiya or Bondo available near you?
@@Darkwingdad Thank you! I'm in Sweden and couldn't find what you recommend (not for a reasonable price, delivery was 3x the cost of the product). Nothing from Bondo either. But I can get Tamiya!
Can you also use this like bondo spot putty and apply it directly without acetone?
Yes, it takes longer to dry (about 20 minutes) but you can do it that way if you’d like.
I'm interested in trying this, but I am wondering if another thinner, such as mineral spirits, could be used instead? I print a lot of my cosplay pieces in ASA and I don't want the acetone to dissolve the material.
Mineral spirits will not work. That only works on petroleum based products. Understand acetone is already in primers & puttys, it evaporates rapidly, the same as if you were applying an aerosol. It will 100% not eat away at asa or other plastics unless you soaked it in a vat of acetone. Huge misconception people have of acetone, it’s in everything we already use, a-ok to use this method.
@@Darkwingdad Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to respond.
@@lauriecrabb1461 no problem!
Great video! What layer height do you print with?
Really depends. That piece was .32 I’ve changed to .28 for a lot of prints & more detailed pieces .2
Can we still spray this Upol like we did with the glazing putty?
Absolutely, I did it with the fantastic putty, I can always whip up another video though 1:1 ratio is a good consistency for airbrush or hvlp
@@Darkwingdad Nice! I figured so, but just wanted to check. I've gotten a lot of use out of spraying the bondo, so I'm excited to try out the upol.
@@mattlott1113 definitely won’t need as many coats, same idea just a little less effort & product needed
When sealed would this be safe to use on a mask? I worry about the fumes with my head being enclosed by the mask and faux fur, I sprayed something else with filler primer and it smells bad. Didn’t paint or seal it however
@@SuperNoseFace once cured it’s totally fine
Good info.
Thanks for watching!
would you be able to acetone thin the 3M Acryl green putty?
Yes you can!
Would you recommend the upol 1K putty over the Raptor 1k primer spray?
They’re 2 completely different product. Ease of use & simplicity raptor 1k. Better filling upol 1k. I have a video showing how good the raptor 1k works with filler primer. It is a great combo
@@Darkwingdad thanks working on my first project and binging through your channel
@@TomsRiverMalones binge away! Lol
Hi, I've seen people in the UK recommend Liquitex modelling paste mixed with water.
Are you able to test this method and review please?
I can, I actually got some the other day. Test i shall!
@@Darkwingdad excellent, thanks you so much🙂
I have a friend who works at a bodyshop and gave me a big pouch of U-pol Dolphine glaze UPO714 ultra fine finishing glaze would it work the same just don't add the hardener or would I still have to add it
No it still needs the hardener. You can add a filler honey to it to make it thinner but it’s not quite the same as this. It is a great filler for gaps & deep imperfections.
what do you use to wipe the dust away after sanding before bondo filler primer spray? Just paper towel or microfiber cloth? Thanks!
A tac cloth, I can link it if you need to
@@Darkwingdad Thank you! I think i have some of that laying around :) Have a great day
What acetone did you use for the putty?
Kleen strip, you can get it at Walmart,Lowe’s etc
What matte black finish primer are you using here? Thanks
Rustoleum matte black
@@Darkwingdad Appreciate it. BTW, do you still have your discord server? I've found an older link but seems invalid.
@@briandoiron8438 yes it’s on my link tree, that link is in the description on my last video
@@Darkwingdad Haha, found it right after I sent the message 😂
Quick question: can you make the Upol liquid to spray it like you did with the Bondo?
Yes you can I’m going to do a video soon to show everyone
@@Darkwingdad love you ❤️
So basically for EU it's the 1K Stopper right?
@@damienmoreau3859 yes
@@damienmoreau3859 I was able to use upols fantastic putty in a mini hvlp. I will have a video soon showing it in an airbrush. I’m also going to show/test liquitex as well.
Can this be wet sanded? When I've used acrylic fillers before they tend to lift the second you try to wet sand. Great video, thanks :)
You don’t need to wetsand any filler or putty nor should you. Only time you should be wetsanding is after your final primer before paint & after clear coat to reduce orange peel.
@@Darkwingdad I mainly wet sand so it stops dust. Works really well
@@chrisjhart understand you are introducing a solute which can prolong curing & affect adhesion with top coats. I don’t recommend wetsanding puttys
We are going to have to agree to disagree on that one. The only real purpose of wet sanding is to provide a lubricant so it doesn't cut as roughly. I've a whole packet of the stuff ranging from 400 to 1200. I always wet sand where I can for the reason that you are not putting harmful dust into your work atomsphere. Yes, with acrylic it tends to delaminate it, but everything else is good to go in my experience.
@@chrisjhart to each there own but you did express issues when you wetsanded & I explained why it’s happening-your adding excessive & reactant solute to the substrate. Following automotive body repair (which are all the products I use & demonstrate with) wetsanding isn’t recommended or used. Dust is something you have to deal with, that’s what ppe is for. I’ve had zero issues pyramiding my grits dry, the dust I just deal with 🤷🏻♂️ I’m just demonstrating what professionals used & have used in automotive restoration & what works in my methods. There’s methods & products that others use that I never would, at the end of the day I guess if it’s working for you roll with it. Difference of opinions are like hairs in your head, & unless your bald theres too many to count.
awesome thank you
Anytime!
I use the Upol fantastic 0924 but need a way to thin it down. Would acetone be the best way to do so and does the acetone eat through the PLA at all?
Acetone will work the best, no need to worry low amounts of acetone will not affect the pla.
Are we not allowed to wet sand anymore when using this product since I saw in the comments, when it comes into contact with certain liquids it can go soft?
There’s no reason you should ever wetsand putty. There’s literally no reason for it & it’s a waste of time. Sanding this with 320/400 will leave it perfectly smooth & a filler primer will fill in any minor sanding imperfections. The only time you should wetsand is A) your primer before paint if it feels rough or b) clear coat to remove orange peel
Hey man, by any chance do you play in the adult hockey league? I’m pretty sure I ref where you play. Small world I got into making cosplay two years ago by doing a mandalorian costume and a Bo Katan costume I started 3-D printing myself a couple months ago prior to that I was buying 3-D prints at finishing them. I’ve used your videos to help with that.
I do, unless your the ref with glasses I’ve never yelled at you lol glad the videos are helping. I wanted to 3D print a puck in petg and see how long it lasts….get me 10 extra minutes of ice let’s make it happen lol
Thank you for this. Subbed!
@@thedude7450 love it!!
@@Darkwingdad Update: This putty is 🔥. I love it. Their primer on the other hand… I hate it.
@@thedude7450 which primer?
@@Darkwingdad ruclips.net/video/o0qXl82CPjc/видео.htmlsi=6BoELPMidHbMfeZX&t=395
@@Darkwingdad ruclips.net/video/o0qXl82CPjc/видео.htmlsi=6BoELPMidHbMfeZX&t=395
Hycote filler primer is it any good or noone used it thanks
Can’t say I’ve tried it so I’m not sure
Could someone confirm in the UK this stuff is called upol 1k stopper, is it the same product inside?
1k stopper is the same product yes
After sanding, what do you do/use to clean off the part?
A few things you can do.
Blow with conpressor
Wipe down with tac cloth
Wipe down with microfiber & isopropyl
What acid tone do you use in the video?
Kleen strip you can get it at Walmart
this is a little bit of a bed question. I can make these pieces and they are smooth all over but where it attaches to the bed. I get a very textured bottom which ruins it compared to how smooth i can get the sides and top. You have any suggestions?
Sounds like a leveling issue, what printer?
@Darkwingdad well it just looks like the textured bed. It's an Anycubic Kobra 2 Max
@@chazhaze3d glass bed or pei plate?
@@Darkwingdad pei
@@chazhaze3d is there bulging or blistering on the sides for a bit on the bottom?
Love it....😍
Pretty much the same as every acrylic based putty in the scale model market I use! The enamel based one is great with IPA it works the same sort of way water would also work the same probably better if it's full acrylic based putty acetone is something I'd use last IPA would be better for the plastic than acetone, Dulux materials acrylic putty is the best on the market bar non every modelers go to really
IPA doesn’t dilute this as prominently & there’s absolutely no reason to think the acetone is going to affect thermo plastics in small amounts. Acetone is already in numerous puttys along with thinner. Both are in primers & paints & have no adverse affects due to rapid evaporation rates.
@@Darkwingdad I wouldn't recommend using acetone in combinations with ABS, as ABS can be dissolved in Acetone, Just like those "smoothing vapor chamber" for ABS 3D prints. And indeed, both are being used in paints, adhesives, etc. without issue's ;-)
@@NK_Customs total different when you are suffocating the model in acetone vs it evaporating in seconds with whats shown here. I’ve tested pla,petg & abs & there’s no issues. Remember, acetones,ketones & lacquer are all in aerosols & primers, so saying not to use this method is like saying don’t use spray paints.
Any plastic you leave in a vat of acetone or vapor smooth it with no escape from it it’ll damage. But as stated this dries & evaporates in seconds. No issues here.
Difference from this and the 1k stopper?
Same product the stopper is internationally distributed
This would have been great to use on my engineering prototype and just sand it at 400 grit... I wish they had a clear version of this so I don't need to paint the model (example: Black ABS) and it would be smooth.
Ever think of epoxy or clear resin (not sla)
@@Darkwingdad I do have some XTC-3D epoxy from Smooth-On, but I've never thinned it with acetone and it unfortunately has a 5-7 minute pot life. Also, it alters the fit tolerances
@@KRGraphicsCG don’t use xtc look into acrylic resins that might work for ya
@@Darkwingdad I will have to look into acrylic resins that allow me to smooth it onto a part and sand it easily. Just need to ensure it's clear. I actually stopped using XTC because of the dry time and difficulty with sanding
I don't understand which mix did you do , putty upol with what ?
Upol 1k combination putty with acetone
Is this unsafe inside the house? I just used bando putty and wore a mask but it is stinking up my entire house even though i did it in the window sill with a open window. I feel bad for my pets
Definitely do not want to use these products indoors & without a respirator. Always use in a shop or outside with good circulation
👍👍 great info as always. Much appreciated.
Where do you buy UPol 1k putty?
Amazon
I wonder what it looks like a year later. That putty isn't catalyzed, so I'm sure it shrank enough where the layer lines are back now.
@@MarcoNoPolo it’s solvent based, plus your thinning it with a heavier solvent in acetone which accelerates curing. Got about 5 helmets of my own where I’ve used this method and 50+ for others, no issues and didn’t shrink.
@@Darkwingdad Well that answers that question. 👍I like to use 2-part Urethane primer myself.
@@MarcoNoPolo definitely a nice option, I’ve used a few including the popular featherfill & slick sand just the clean up sucks lol and not everyone has a compressor or set up to use it.
Thank you
Are you still recommending this product these days? Also, what are your thoughts about spraying this like your videos about spraying the bondo putty? Thanks!
Yes dolphin 1k is superior to ANY putty out there & it’s sprayable. Doing a video on that too
@@Darkwingdad Sweet! Thanks!
Can it be done with an airbrush if you use it a little thinner?
Yes it can make sure your airbrush is .8 & you’ll be fine
@@Darkwingdad thanks I will try it.
@@daynafost let me know how it goes!
@@Darkwingdad will do. Your settings for pla works great for my pla carbon fiber, thanks
@@daynafost killer man! What were you making?
Where can I get Dolphin putty ?
Right here! amzn.to/4anwcoq
Thanks for the info, you can probably edit out when say the same thing over and over.
When getting a point across repetition works.
ok I am gonna do a Chess set... and now it looks like a pain for me to do all 32 pieces... wish there will be a day that we don't have to do this.
is the acetone mostly for ABS?
No, this isn’t acetone smoothing. The acetone dilutes the putty making it more soluble so it can be brushed on. It evaporates so fast though it dries the putty in minutes and than can be sanded.
Could you spray the putty?
Absolutely, I’m doing a video soon on it
could I use this technique with dap wood fill?
No, do not use wood filler at all. Harder to sand, more porous, cracks over time
dad it's all I have right now
@@mental_r0bot459 go pick up some bondo glazing putty or upol fantastic putty. Significantly better products with faster dry time & less shrinking
Bondo filler primer is never in stock around me
I posted a primer by seymour(link in description) it’s identical to bondo
@@Darkwingdad thanks cause I tried the Duplicolor Professional and was not impressed and have just stayed with Rustoleum
@@CaptainFettCosplay duplicolor is hit or miss, I tried there refinish & it was meh. Have you seen my filler primer test video?
nice