thank you! I originally was going to try and make it much shorter, but I realized it helped more to show it real time to get an idea of the speed of drying.
This was all the missing tutorial of what to do after your 3d print is done. WAY to many videos gloss over this as common knowledge, which isn't common for those of us getting started.
I really appreciate you showing us the full process and technique. Most RUclipsrs only show the interesting parts and cut out the labor intensive sections. This is how it’s really done.
@@OddVikingusers always have the option to speed it up. I appreciate this long format cuz it really captured all the nuances and steps and what not. Really nice techniques and I learned a lot of new stuff. Great job.
@@OddViking Not it actually makes it even easier to understand the whole process and it makes the whole video even more interesting to watch to really fully learn all of it
I'm a carpenter and a maker and always have difficulty with plywood shop and office furniture! This technique with Bondo+acetone paint application and sanding will be a fantastic alternative to the Durham's water/putty mixing that I currently do. Thank you for a very informative video!!!
I've been wanting to do props my entire life since I was a little kid. Was about to take my shot at a clone trooper arc helmet and was discouraged watching videos on how to do it because everyone's props weren't up to my standards. They had print lines and/or looked chunky and janky (which I now know is too much bondo and lack of sanding). This guy had me hooked right from the start with his piece he showed off. Thanks for restoring my hope! I'm super pumped to get my print started!
Ive been researching many ways to finish many sizes of 3d prints. This tutorial is easily the best and most efficient method ive seen for large prints. Thank you so much, cant wait to get started on this method. I just need my large printer to arrive!
Thanks again Colin for taking the time to document the processes you employ! I wanted to offer two additional tips in sanding if you or someone else wants to try it out. 1) for wet sanding try adding a drop of dish soap to your water and the sand paper will glide over the surface and keep the paper even cleaner. This especially works well on the higher grit numbers like 600+ And 2) I use a sanding sponge or even a scrap of EVA to wrap the paper around so you don’t accidentally get finger marks in surfaces. The soft eva will contour to the surface well. Happy crafting!
The Bondo technique is a great way to get it done. I am a woodworker and use a similar techniques with grainy woods, especially Red Oak. I mix drywall mud with water to a pancake batter consistency, then paint it on the wood. After one sanding, the grain is usually filled and once painted, the appearance is perfectly smooth. Great video!
this is going to save me from a lot of headaches or expectations (first timer for 3D printing, haven't printed anything yet but am starting with mando armor so this really helped me plan for the post processing)
I always wondered why cosplay 3d print channels were not using bondo. This method is much more effective than the several layer of filler primer and sanding to get the same result. I never want to recreate a process that has been around for decades with car body repair.
Got me thinking that I need to look through my pieces again. The bondo paint concept is a really solid one, and it looks easy to do. Thank you for this tutorial.
Wow, this is the video! I 3D printed a whole Iron Man suit without really thinking about how to finish it perfectly. You just showed me how....looks like I have a lot of sanding to do 😅 Thank for this very informative video
I thank God for my Bambu and also knowledge of how to place my models on the print bed for a perfect smooth finish. i am now able to achieve quality finish without sanding and my AMS Lite is a dream for color printing
Just a few suggestions/observations for consideration. My current method is to give the part a quick sand with 120grit to knock down any real high spots. I then do a fairly light spray of filler primer. In my experience filler primer will gum up sandpaper if you don't allow it to cure. If you sand too early, the primer is quite soft, but a day or so later it wet sands without any gummy residue or buildup. I sand my initial primer layer down to where I can see the original print. I do this because as the name suggests it is filler primer. Spraying on primer really thick may fill, but the more product you put on the more you change the dimensionality of the part. In my opinion you want the filler primer to fill the layer lines, but only to where the low and high peaks are equalized. Minimal material. Then, I go in with the Bondo. From what I have read, Bondo is actually quite soft even when cured. The function of the product is actually to fill in "spots" of scratches and such. It isn't really designed to fill in deep lines. I suspect a 2-part bondo is more appropriate for this. Using the Bondo as a spot putty means I don't have to use much of it. Only where things are deep are where I need to concentrate it full strength. After drying for a few hours I wet sand this (to keep dust down). Then, I go over the part again with a few thin layers of filler primer. I wait a day or so then wet sand it down with 400 grit. I usually burn through in a few spots, but it is okay because at this point it is quite smooth. I check once again for any parts that might need Bondo, then hit the part with the final few light layers of primer. After a day or so, I wet sand with 800 grit very lightly just to get it all smooth. I try to avoid burning through edges. I find doing it this way wastes way less product. It also avoids filling detail with Bondo/paint that needs to be sanded out or sculpted out with a tool. As mentioned, I also don't think thick applications of Bondo are the most durable, so I try to keep the product(s) just thick enough to bring the low spots and high spots to the same level. Finally, it seems to cut down on added weight. Lathering on product adds a lot of bulk to parts which adds up over the entire costume/prop. There are of course hundreds of methods and I think the one in the video is great. But, perhaps someone might try the method I outlined above to see if it works.
That is a good process. In the end my method doesn't add significant weight or build up, it is still a minimal layer to get it perfectly smooth. But I love that there are dozens of paths to the same result, and your method sounds great too!
Dang I wish I had seen this video years earlier. This process looks much more efficient than how I was doing it. Great job. Will be using this method for my next project, Helldiver armor.
This is the first youtube vid I've seen of this method. I did this last year with my ODST cosplay and haven't heard anybody talking about it outside of some forums. Glad to see someone did a full demonstration, it saves so much time and energy.
I appreciate how you not just explain key points but also demonstrate (e.g. acetone effect on solo cup). These nuances set your video far above others. Well done!
Awesome tutorial and inspiring work! Pro tip for reducing the "staircase" effect of layers on curved surfaces: in you slicer software, like Prusa Slicer, you can enable "variable layer height" which can apply smaller layer heights for curved portions of the model, while using a larger layer height for relatively straight portions. Good balance for quality and time!
I just lost my father to lung cancer last year. Please wear masks when you sand and paint. Great Content. I was using wood filler and I think Im going to take a crack at your bondo method for sure
Dude this video was AMAZING. I have tried to follow other videos and I ruined my halloween costume in the last steps 2 years in a row :(. This was the ABSOLLUTE best video I found thank you!!!! (Mixing the acetone with the bondo + the type you reccomended and the details on how to prime + wet sand the primer is what fixed my issues)
What an AWESOME video. It seems like people don't like to show us how to do this stuff because it's like a trade secret. You did an awesome job and made it seem simple and like anyone can do it. And they can now that you've generously shared your technique. THANK YOU again.
Thank you for an awesome video !!! The detail you put into this was so helpful!! If you could please do a video about painting, that would be awesome!!! I'm currently trying my first Mando helmet, and your process has worked out fantastic!!! I'm getting ready to start primer, and I'm a little nervous about painting it. Thank you again for your videos!!!!
the water in wet sanding basically become like lubricant, it make the sanding more smoothly, and the grid come down a little too, but I agree, it keep dust away, making it more effective and literally smoothing out the sand, making you you less likely getting scratch on your primer, hence smoother finished, also this channel is super underrated
Bro! Are you kidding me! UGH, I wish I had watched this video 3 builds ago. Amazing work. I was half way there in a lot of ways and doing way more work then I needed to be doing. Thank you so much for making this video. Extremely life changing info lol. My fingers and sanity thank you sir haha.
This is an awesome video! Reminded me of a How it's made on DIY network or something. Thanks for the in depth explanation and demonstration this was so worth the hour watch! Hope to see your channel blow up!
Will there be anymore videos? I enjoy watching and listening how you work whilst working in my own projects as it gives me ideas and techniques and I see you upload on insta often, even just videos of you working on projects with the odd hints would be great to see!❤
I've been doing 3d prints for awhile but this video was exactly what I needed to really up the quality of my process and especially future cosplays. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge and workflow in-depth! As a new 501st member, I bet this will help a lot of other newcomers too o7
Really interesting video. What did you print in? PLA? PTEG? ABS? Just curious. I wonder if something in the print settings or materials could have made a difference in the smoothness of the piece, or if that's pretty much as good as it gets before the Bondo and sanding start? Just started looking at getting into the 3D printing hobby myself and there's SO much out there. Once I saw my first video on printing Star Wars props, I was hooked. I've already got an ever-growing list in my head of stuff I want to make, and I don't even have a printer yet. LOL! Thanks for sharing your process.
Hello! Thanks for the great instructions. I'm currently in the process of making my first helmet and am grateful to have found your tutorial. This way I don't have to make some mistakes myself and the result will certainly be better!
This is a great tutorial. It too have tried everything and settled on a process that is basically exactly this. Occasionally I'll apply a layer of XTC-3D before doing a final wet sand/primer/wet sand. Doing this makes the surface a bit more scratch resistant since the bondo and filler primer are both so soft.
Thank you so much! I spent so much time sanding and filling my 3d printed pieces, but even when I reproduced the process 2 times, it wasn't perfect. I'm hurry to try this technic.
I've used allot of these methods and the one that I find that works extreamly well is UV resin for resin printers specially for extreamly deep print lines like on the top of the helmet it fills in well and in some cases self levels if you hold it perpendicular to the ground on flat surfaces and it can be easily sanded. It can be cured with a UV light or left in the sun for up to 5 minutes to fully cure then I will go over it with filler primer to fill in the minor layer lines. I've acutally done a full Mando helmet with the UV resin in one day fully smoothed and with a light sanding to create a good paint surface to stick to it was ready to paint the next day with gloss black and then the finally finished off with graphite powder for the shinny chrome look.
Thank you for a great video! I am making a slime blower from Ghostbusters 2 and I am about ready to use this method on the tanks! Can't wait to see the results!!
I like to use the Sponge sanding blocks. Less stress on the fingertips, larger sanding area and it's flexible and it goes along with any curves. You just have to bang the dust out often so it doesn't clog up and stick to it. You can't throw them away as quickly as a cut piece of sandpaper.
I had no idea you could water down Bondo, so thank you for that. Side note, PLEASE wear a mask when you're working with that stuff, especially sanding, you do not want that in your lungs. Thank you for the help.
This may be a very long video, but it showed me perfectly how to get smooth parts. I'm so going to invest in all items shown here. Thank you very much! New subscriber, and bookmarked the video for future reference! Keep up the good work.
One of the best start to finish... finishing videos I've found. A good friend is printing me a full size 40k chainsword, and it will be my first attempt at this type of finishing and painting. I will be rewatching this several times in preparation. Any tips or videos you could point me at for painting small details that will require brush work? This is also something I've never done.
That sounds like a great project! For brush painting, I don't have any suggestions for that. I came to this hobby with a past as an illustrator, so brush painting was always something I could already do.
Couple of ideas for you. 1) debuting tool for edges 2) heat gun or little flamer burner will reduce a lot 3) seems on some parts you can force the seem to inside of part. 4) Variable layer near the top Leila save stair casing 5) increase top and bottom layers so you don’t blow through Into infill when sanding 6) use acetone with abs to make a glue or use acetone to glue abs parts directly - abs welding
For those in australia and can't get access to bondo spot putty sand your prop with an 80, 100, 200, 300. Then brush uv resin over the top and once cured sand again with 600 grit then filler prime
Hello Master, your videos have given me the motivation to sand even more... hahahaha I want to ask you a question, how do I remove the paint from PLA without damaging it, what product to use and thus start a whole new filling and sanding process? I thank you, a hug and thank you for your teachings, master.
Haha, finally I see someone who likes sanding as much as I do 🙂 Too bad I saw this video only now, I had to figure it out on my own a long time ago. Great work!
Very good vid. Sanding is always the pain 😄In fact I'm watching this while sanding. Yet, that bondo spot putty is great to use. I've tried resin which is ok, but prefer the bondo,
If you use wet or dry 3M sandpaper you can sand with water. It'll keep you from breathing in all the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging up. I also recommend using sanding blocks. I use Dura-Block but they aren't cheap. Also, be aware that glazing putty was meant to fill in pits and tiny scratches so it is going to be soft. Even fully cured it's soft. One can use light weight body filler bondo thinned with fiberglass resin but it will be more difficult to work with.
Tired of seeing RUclips shorts. I love long firm videos like this where i can really absorb a lot of information. Thank you so much for this!
thank you! I originally was going to try and make it much shorter, but I realized it helped more to show it real time to get an idea of the speed of drying.
@@OddViking it is much appreciated. I found myself staring at it because it was drying so quickly! New subscription
This was all the missing tutorial of what to do after your 3d print is done. WAY to many videos gloss over this as common knowledge, which isn't common for those of us getting started.
I wish I could like this comment multiple times....lol
This channel is criminally underrated. This is easily the most comprehensive video I've seen on finishing printed parts
thank you so much!
Completely agree
I've watched a bunch the last couple days, this is easily the best one I've found.
I really appreciate you showing us the full process and technique. Most RUclipsrs only show the interesting parts and cut out the labor intensive sections. This is how it’s really done.
I was thinking of editing it to something short, but I realized showing it realtime was valuable.
@@OddVikingusers always have the option to speed it up. I appreciate this long format cuz it really captured all the nuances and steps and what not. Really nice techniques and I learned a lot of new stuff. Great job.
@@OddViking Please don't make them short. Everyone else does these little bite sized pieces and so much valuable information is lost
@@OddViking Not it actually makes it even easier to understand the whole process and it makes the whole video even more interesting to watch to really fully learn all of it
I'm a carpenter and a maker and always have difficulty with plywood shop and office furniture! This technique with Bondo+acetone paint application and sanding will be a fantastic alternative to the Durham's water/putty mixing that I currently do. Thank you for a very informative video!!!
I love the acetone and bondo mix... 4 years of 3D printing and 2 years of selling helmets, I've never seen that technique. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Commenting just because this was worth the watch and deserves the engagement, thank you.
excellent, thank you!
That acetone-bondo mix is genius - I don't know how I didn't read up on that anywhere else earlier! Very informative
Once I tried it, I have never gone back.
I've been wanting to do props my entire life since I was a little kid. Was about to take my shot at a clone trooper arc helmet and was discouraged watching videos on how to do it because everyone's props weren't up to my standards. They had print lines and/or looked chunky and janky (which I now know is too much bondo and lack of sanding). This guy had me hooked right from the start with his piece he showed off. Thanks for restoring my hope! I'm super pumped to get my print started!
Excellent! welcome to a great new hobby!
Ive been researching many ways to finish many sizes of 3d prints. This tutorial is easily the best and most efficient method ive seen for large prints. Thank you so much, cant wait to get started on this method. I just need my large printer to arrive!
Glad it was helpful!
Hope you’re doing well man. Thanks for the knowledge dumps. It really helps out newbies like me. Greatly appreciated
Thanks again Colin for taking the time to document the processes you employ! I wanted to offer two additional tips in sanding if you or someone else wants to try it out. 1) for wet sanding try adding a drop of dish soap to your water and the sand paper will glide over the surface and keep the paper even cleaner. This especially works well on the higher grit numbers like 600+
And 2) I use a sanding sponge or even a scrap of EVA to wrap the paper around so you don’t accidentally get finger marks in surfaces. The soft eva will contour to the surface well. Happy crafting!
Excellent tips, thanks!
The Bondo technique is a great way to get it done. I am a woodworker and use a similar techniques with grainy woods, especially Red Oak. I mix drywall mud with water to a pancake batter consistency, then paint it on the wood. After one sanding, the grain is usually filled and once painted, the appearance is perfectly smooth. Great video!
this is going to save me from a lot of headaches or expectations (first timer for 3D printing, haven't printed anything yet but am starting with mando armor so this really helped me plan for the post processing)
this guy is the GOAT of 3d model prep/paint
Definitive guide. Thanks for what you’ve done for the community!
Thank you!
I always wondered why cosplay 3d print channels were not using bondo. This method is much more effective than the several layer of filler primer and sanding to get the same result. I never want to recreate a process that has been around for decades with car body repair.
Worth the hour of time. Thank you for being thorough. Excellent tutorial.
Glad it was helpful!
Got me thinking that I need to look through my pieces again. The bondo paint concept is a really solid one, and it looks easy to do. Thank you for this tutorial.
Wow, this is the video! I 3D printed a whole Iron Man suit without really thinking about how to finish it perfectly. You just showed me how....looks like I have a lot of sanding to do 😅
Thank for this very informative video
For your initial trimming you might try a cabinet scraper - i think they work much better than a blade
I thank God for my Bambu and also knowledge of how to place my models on the print bed for a perfect smooth finish. i am now able to achieve quality finish without sanding and my AMS Lite is a dream for color printing
Just a few suggestions/observations for consideration.
My current method is to give the part a quick sand with 120grit to knock down any real high spots. I then do a fairly light spray of filler primer.
In my experience filler primer will gum up sandpaper if you don't allow it to cure. If you sand too early, the primer is quite soft, but a day or so later it wet sands without any gummy residue or buildup.
I sand my initial primer layer down to where I can see the original print. I do this because as the name suggests it is filler primer. Spraying on primer really thick may fill, but the more product you put on the more you change the dimensionality of the part. In my opinion you want the filler primer to fill the layer lines, but only to where the low and high peaks are equalized. Minimal material.
Then, I go in with the Bondo. From what I have read, Bondo is actually quite soft even when cured. The function of the product is actually to fill in "spots" of scratches and such. It isn't really designed to fill in deep lines. I suspect a 2-part bondo is more appropriate for this.
Using the Bondo as a spot putty means I don't have to use much of it. Only where things are deep are where I need to concentrate it full strength. After drying for a few hours I wet sand this (to keep dust down).
Then, I go over the part again with a few thin layers of filler primer. I wait a day or so then wet sand it down with 400 grit. I usually burn through in a few spots, but it is okay because at this point it is quite smooth.
I check once again for any parts that might need Bondo, then hit the part with the final few light layers of primer. After a day or so, I wet sand with 800 grit very lightly just to get it all smooth. I try to avoid burning through edges.
I find doing it this way wastes way less product. It also avoids filling detail with Bondo/paint that needs to be sanded out or sculpted out with a tool. As mentioned, I also don't think thick applications of Bondo are the most durable, so I try to keep the product(s) just thick enough to bring the low spots and high spots to the same level. Finally, it seems to cut down on added weight. Lathering on product adds a lot of bulk to parts which adds up over the entire costume/prop.
There are of course hundreds of methods and I think the one in the video is great. But, perhaps someone might try the method I outlined above to see if it works.
That is a good process. In the end my method doesn't add significant weight or build up, it is still a minimal layer to get it perfectly smooth. But I love that there are dozens of paths to the same result, and your method sounds great too!
Subscribed, you are the main reason why im improving on this
Dang I wish I had seen this video years earlier. This process looks much more efficient than how I was doing it. Great job. Will be using this method for my next project, Helldiver armor.
I had no idea the vid lasted that long, this is how a tutorial vid should be. In depth and to the point, with actual demonstration of it.
I originally planned a shorter peppy version, but I thought it would be better to show it all more real-time.
This is the first youtube vid I've seen of this method. I did this last year with my ODST cosplay and haven't heard anybody talking about it outside of some forums. Glad to see someone did a full demonstration, it saves so much time and energy.
Hands down the best prop making channel I've come across. I look forward to your uploads. I applaud you sir.
I appreciate how you not just explain key points but also demonstrate (e.g. acetone effect on solo cup). These nuances set your video far above others. Well done!
Awesome tutorial and inspiring work! Pro tip for reducing the "staircase" effect of layers on curved surfaces: in you slicer software, like Prusa Slicer, you can enable "variable layer height" which can apply smaller layer heights for curved portions of the model, while using a larger layer height for relatively straight portions. Good balance for quality and time!
Thanks! I bought these prints, so that was all out of my control.
I am building my first big prop, and this technique is the GOAT!!!!!
Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time and going through your process. I love the idea of bondo and acetone!
Very thorough, easy to follow, and enjoyable to watch! Thank you for these tutorials!
I just lost my father to lung cancer last year. Please wear masks when you sand and paint. Great Content. I was using wood filler and I think Im going to take a crack at your bondo method for sure
Safety sally
@@AutismusPrime69Don’t want people to die unnecessarily Danny
@@Dog3Dalways coming up with a clever comeback Curtis
@@broccoli_cheese always alliterating aliases andrew
@@insaneinthemembrane383 reminding me of my past comments Randy
Dude this video was AMAZING. I have tried to follow other videos and I ruined my halloween costume in the last steps 2 years in a row :(. This was the ABSOLLUTE best video I found thank you!!!! (Mixing the acetone with the bondo + the type you reccomended and the details on how to prime + wet sand the primer is what fixed my issues)
Excellent, I am glad it helped!
I just ordered my first bed slinger so, I'm benging vids like this. Thanks for the info and the insperation.
When I finally used the right sanding paper I was so happy 😂 Good paper makes the difference!
Dude, this may be the smartest video I’ve seen. Thank you for all the details and especially for not sounding like the other RUclipsrs (annoying).
Thank you so much!
What an AWESOME video. It seems like people don't like to show us how to do this stuff because it's like a trade secret. You did an awesome job and made it seem simple and like anyone can do it. And they can now that you've generously shared your technique. THANK YOU again.
Thank you so much! I only learned what I know by others sharing what they knew.
This has to be one of the best ways I have come across to smooth out lines. Thank you!
Thank you! I has been my favorite method for a year now.
amazing quality, easy to follow, straight to the point. Perfect Tutorial
Thank you for an awesome video !!! The detail you put into this was so helpful!! If you could please do a video about painting, that would be awesome!!! I'm currently trying my first Mando helmet, and your process has worked out fantastic!!! I'm getting ready to start primer, and I'm a little nervous about painting it. Thank you again for your videos!!!!
the water in wet sanding basically become like lubricant, it make the sanding more smoothly, and the grid come down a little too, but I agree, it keep dust away, making it more effective and literally smoothing out the sand, making you you less likely getting scratch on your primer, hence smoother finished, also this channel is super underrated
exactly! I love wet sanding.
Hands down the best video on this topic.
Bro! Are you kidding me! UGH, I wish I had watched this video 3 builds ago. Amazing work. I was half way there in a lot of ways and doing way more work then I needed to be doing. Thank you so much for making this video. Extremely life changing info lol. My fingers and sanity thank you sir haha.
happy to help! I did this the hard way many times before learning this.
Thanks for a great video, I like to watch passively at work. Your audio was a bit low but I definitely understand!! Have a great weekend
Man, this is the masterclass in finishing! Thank you for the awesome video, wisdom and knowledge. 🙏
Thank you!
This is an awesome video! Reminded me of a How it's made on DIY network or something. Thanks for the in depth explanation and demonstration this was so worth the hour watch! Hope to see your channel blow up!
Will there be anymore videos? I enjoy watching and listening how you work whilst working in my own projects as it gives me ideas and techniques and I see you upload on insta often, even just videos of you working on projects with the odd hints would be great to see!❤
Thank you! I have one partly filmed on soft-parts weathering, but it is not complete yet.
I've been doing 3d prints for awhile but this video was exactly what I needed to really up the quality of my process and especially future cosplays. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge and workflow in-depth! As a new 501st member, I bet this will help a lot of other newcomers too o7
thank you so much!
Really interesting video. What did you print in? PLA? PTEG? ABS? Just curious. I wonder if something in the print settings or materials could have made a difference in the smoothness of the piece, or if that's pretty much as good as it gets before the Bondo and sanding start? Just started looking at getting into the 3D printing hobby myself and there's SO much out there. Once I saw my first video on printing Star Wars props, I was hooked. I've already got an ever-growing list in my head of stuff I want to make, and I don't even have a printer yet. LOL! Thanks for sharing your process.
I don’t really know. I buy my prints, and only have a medium sized resin printer, so I don’t know anything on the settings.
@@OddViking - Fair enough. Thanks for the reply.
Glad youre ok and back in the shop... We love you brother
I am follow8mg all of your tips and tricks for a Fallout NCR Ranger helmet. You have been a great help. Keep up all the great work you do!
that sounds cool! I am glad this helps on your build.
amazing video. I've been trying to figure out how to get my prints where I wanted them and here is my solution!
this was a great video. love your passion for prop making
Hello! Thanks for the great instructions. I'm currently in the process of making my first helmet and am grateful to have found your tutorial. This way I don't have to make some mistakes myself and the result will certainly be better!
I am starting into prop making and this is very informative. Thank you
Thank you so much for the details. I am starting down this path to learn and this is one of the best videos I have seen!
I am glad it was helpful!
Awesome video! I have been doing nearly the same process, but hadn’t thought to thin the Bondo and brush it on. Definitely going to try that!
This is a great tutorial. It too have tried everything and settled on a process that is basically exactly this. Occasionally I'll apply a layer of XTC-3D before doing a final wet sand/primer/wet sand. Doing this makes the surface a bit more scratch resistant since the bondo and filler primer are both so soft.
Great tutorial, Colin! Happy to see you in the shop and hope you're doing well!
Thank you so much! I spent so much time sanding and filling my 3d printed pieces, but even when I reproduced the process 2 times, it wasn't perfect. I'm hurry to try this technic.
I've used allot of these methods and the one that I find that works extreamly well is UV resin for resin printers specially for extreamly deep print lines like on the top of the helmet it fills in well and in some cases self levels if you hold it perpendicular to the ground on flat surfaces and it can be easily sanded. It can be cured with a UV light or left in the sun for up to 5 minutes to fully cure then I will go over it with filler primer to fill in the minor layer lines. I've acutally done a full Mando helmet with the UV resin in one day fully smoothed and with a light sanding to create a good paint surface to stick to it was ready to paint the next day with gloss black and then the finally finished off with graphite powder for the shinny chrome look.
Love your props and thank you for the tutorials
Thank you for a great video! I am making a slime blower from Ghostbusters 2 and I am about ready to use this method on the tanks! Can't wait to see the results!!
I like to use the Sponge sanding blocks. Less stress on the fingertips, larger sanding area and it's flexible and it goes along with any curves. You just have to bang the dust out often so it doesn't clog up and stick to it. You can't throw them away as quickly as a cut piece of sandpaper.
I don’t know how you weren’t in my recommendations before now. I watch Van Oaks, Smugglers Room and all those guys 🤷🏽♂️.
I’m subscribed now though!
Very comprehensive and detailed tutorial. This helped a lot. Thank you
Very cool. This is going to help out my mando build for my son.
I had no idea you could water down Bondo, so thank you for that. Side note, PLEASE wear a mask when you're working with that stuff, especially sanding, you do not want that in your lungs. Thank you for the help.
Prefect timing, my first prop helmet just finished printing yesterday! definitely going to use this method
Thank you for the tutorial! You explain things that's easy to follow 👍
This may be a very long video, but it showed me perfectly how to get smooth parts. I'm so going to invest in all items shown here. Thank you very much! New subscriber, and bookmarked the video for future reference! Keep up the good work.
thank you so much! I originally tried to make it shorter, but I think showing it more real time is helpful.
my FDM prints are coming out very good but I think this method would still be useful on alot of bigger prints
My best tips: matte finnish, matt/satin coats after. They make your cosolay photos look soo much better. Unless you go perfect gloss coats. 100%.
One of the best start to finish... finishing videos I've found. A good friend is printing me a full size 40k chainsword, and it will be my first attempt at this type of finishing and painting. I will be rewatching this several times in preparation. Any tips or videos you could point me at for painting small details that will require brush work? This is also something I've never done.
That sounds like a great project! For brush painting, I don't have any suggestions for that. I came to this hobby with a past as an illustrator, so brush painting was always something I could already do.
Subbed. I didn't realize it was an hour video lol it went by so quick. Thank you for the awesome tips.
Couple of ideas for you.
1) debuting tool for edges
2) heat gun or little flamer burner will reduce a lot
3) seems on some parts you can force the seem to inside of part.
4) Variable layer near the top Leila save stair casing
5) increase top and bottom layers so you don’t blow through Into infill when sanding
6) use acetone with abs to make a glue or use acetone to glue abs parts directly - abs welding
This is such a perfect video, im about to be starting on my first 3d printed prop and this video is gonna be such an amazing help
Beautiful finish. Great video!
As always, the GOAT of props!!!
For those in australia and can't get access to bondo spot putty sand your prop with an 80, 100, 200, 300. Then brush uv resin over the top and once cured sand again with 600 grit then filler prime
Really great stuff man. I don't know if I'd ever make props, but if I do, I'm subbed and know right where to go!
Great video! Thanks for sharing your process. I learned a lot and it gets me excited about my next project.
Hello Master, your videos have given me the motivation to sand even more... hahahaha
I want to ask you a question, how do I remove the paint from PLA without damaging it, what product to use and thus start a whole new filling and sanding process? I thank you, a hug and thank you for your teachings, master.
Glad I saw your post on Mando Merc Builder FB before they deleted it.
Ah, I hadn't checked back. It is just a free tutorial to help out with print lines, not at all a commercial enterprise.
Awesome!! Thanks so much, I’ll be using this on my new 3D printed stuff!
I love your workshop! Looks awesome!
Another excellent tutorial, Colin!
Thanks man!
Haha, finally I see someone who likes sanding as much as I do 🙂
Too bad I saw this video only now, I had to figure it out on my own a long time ago.
Great work!
sanding is part of it, the toil we endure to get a finished prop. any way to reduce it is worth it!
@@OddViking I find sanding satisfying, a bit like meditation. The result is even more rewarding.
hey thanks for this video i am getting into 3D printing and this really helps
you did an amazing job! Thanks for that video!
Very good vid. Sanding is always the pain 😄In fact I'm watching this while sanding. Yet, that bondo spot putty is great to use. I've tried resin which is ok, but prefer the bondo,
I need to invest in the bigger tube of Glazing Putty. I always forget that it comes in larger tubes.
got my new Stormbringer bucket in the other day.. cant wait to sand.. lol
Thank you for your videos, these have helped me incredibly as Ive started 3d printing!
You are so welcome!
If you use wet or dry 3M sandpaper you can sand with water. It'll keep you from breathing in all the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging up. I also recommend using sanding blocks. I use Dura-Block but they aren't cheap.
Also, be aware that glazing putty was meant to fill in pits and tiny scratches so it is going to be soft. Even fully cured it's soft. One can use light weight body filler bondo thinned with fiberglass resin but it will be more difficult to work with.
Love the information in this video. I will be able to cut down on soooo much time. Thank you!!!
That is what I have found, it is just a lot faster.
Outstanding tutorial. Thankyou!!
Mohawk makes a wood putty stick that I like to use for sharp edges and deeper print lines.
Excellent resource and video, as always!