Just wanted to thank you Sal for sharing your experience and knowledge with us. I have learned a lot from your videos from mixing mortar to waterproofing walls and floors, from cutting tiles to laying them flat and square. I am about to finish my first bath reno and i feel very proud of the end results. Thanks again.
You make it look so easy. I’m learning and seeing it with you, preparation is the foundation to quality tile work. I mean I prepare for all jobs I do, but the money is in the details and fine prep work. I guess that’s what 30 + years will give you.
I want to replace the vinyl squares in my kitchen with tile. The subfloor is 3/4" planks with 1/2" plywood over top of it. Can I use this directly over the vinyl or do I have to tear out the vinyl and put this over the plywood subfloor? If I do have to remove the vinyl, do I have to completely remove all glue residue? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
HI ✋️is there a multi purpose adhesive for sticking down decoupling waterpoof membrane and also using stick down tiles onto😢 membrane? Using the same adhesive?
Hey Sal. I just found out my distributer is switching to mapia UM underlayment. I was very happy to see that you recently posted a video about it! I watch you all the time. Just to keep up on new things. I've also started making my own videos. I'm filming today actually! Very nice backslash in PA. Thank you
Sal quick question. Is there a thin set that would work under and over the membrane. My project is only about 45 square feet. Tile will be large format. I was thinking of using Mapei Ultralite
Hello Sal. Thanks for all the help. I'm installing 12× 24 porcelain tile on an inside porch. Subloor is engineered plank wood. What would u suggest ?? Cement board or could I use this ? ? Thanks
Hi Sal. Thanks for this video, you are awesome! One question: you say you are gonna use UltraFlex 2, and then go on to say you're going to use UltraFlex LFT. Which did you actually use? And did you use the same for both 1. substrate to membrane and 2 membrane to tiles adhesion?
That's sold over here as dural dura base, but yellow.. I use it all the time. Have you used the flexbone 2 easy, that is not stuck to the floor,.. just roll out and tile?
I am hoping to use 12 x 24 porcelin on 300 ft concrete basement floor. Hoping because I need your opinion on this. The concrete floor is relatively flat - however not really level in many areas - not within acceptable guidelines. Self leveling cement not really an option. Would you suggest 1/4 “ grout lines? Would you recommend 12 x12 instead? Any suggestions please. Thanks
Does not have to be level,just flat. I would suggest you get it as flat as possible before installing tile. You can do some spot patching with a cement based patch if you don't want to use self leveler.
Please please Sal I have two more questions, I realize you are a busy man. 1. Do you think using ditra XL would be provide a more forgiving surface for installing my tiles. Also, i plan on using 12x24 porcelin. Would 12 x12 with 3/16 grout lines reduce lippage issues that I will likely have to deal with on my basement concrete floor. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Ditra XL will not help with an uneven floor. Smaller tiles and the wider the grout line, are more forgiving than larger tiles and narrower grout lines. That does not mean you should not fix your floor before you install the tile.
Used pro knees for decades as a union carpenter. I tried every type of knee pad before I broke down and spent the money . They are comfortable and can be rebuilt and repaired . Anyone who works on their knees at all should have a pair.
All the uncoupling membranes work the same way, it is more about availability and personal preference than about which is better. This Mapei product is a great product and I will probably use it again.
Hey Sal, Preparing to tile with an uncoupling membrane for tile over an old hardwood floor on a few areas. 3/4 diagonal slat subfloor with 5/8 hardwood. Do I need a plywood or OSB for the membrane to adhere correctly?
That looks very similar to the Dural material. It has a similar netting material on the top. I’ve used all the others ... and they all seem to work about the same. Was wondering what was recommended for base top thin set. Modified or un-modified. I love it. So much easier to put down than backer. Take care.
Why modified thinset on top of the membrane for the tiles? Can we use unmodified thinset to set tiles on? I know modified thinset is to be used to set uncoupling membrane on top of plywood.
Here is the thing, if the manufacturer calls for modified, as Mapei does, then you use modified, if they call for something else, then that is what you use. Not following their recommendations will void the warranty, does not necessarily mean it will fail, but it does mean you will be on your own if there is a problem. So follow instructions and trust that it has been tested to work best the way the manufacturer says to do it.
Hi Sal, given the context of the installation in this video, I incorrectly assumed your comments here about using modified thinset was only valid for plywood installation. After looking at the manufacturer's spec I was surprised that you meant what you said ... in that this can also be installed on cement with modified thinset too! If this is cheaper than ditra (according to my search), requires less thinset to install, and you can use modified thinset, is there any advantage to using a product like Ditra over mapeguard?
can I use the same Mapei thinnest ultraflex 2 and ultraflex lft with Schluter ditra in the same manner as the uncoupling membrane? cause I saw in another video, on top of the membrane has to be unmodified mortar, but I saw in other videos Mapei uncoupling is the same process... PLEASE HELP
If you want to keep the Schluter warranty, then either use unmodified to set the tile or Schluter Allset. The ultraflex 2 is fine to install the ditra. If you use Mapei MapeGard UM, the yuo can use the Mapei thinsets as described in the video. Will the thinsets work for ditra, yes, but you will forfeit the warranty.
@@SalDiBlasi ok... got it. im going to return the ultraflex lft to get the Kerabond T (unmodified) to do the floors. such a huge learning curve for a newbie DIY'er. Thanks for your videos and advice
one more question, my project manager suggested not to silicone bead the shower pan and tile meet. what are your thoughts on that? backbone of the shower, water vapor barrier, hardie backer board, kerdiband to waterproof the edges of the shower, mapei aqua defense and mortar and tile. so I saw in your videos to silicone the meets of the shower with silicone with denatured alcohol. im not sure on his suggestion
Great videos Sal. Curious as to how you do your bids. Do you have a price sheet that you have established or do you use an estimating software? Would love to see your pricing to help me better grasp the costs for the craftsmanship you put out. Many thanks....
Sal, Can i do this over linoleum floor. I am pretty sure that the linoleum is from the 70s. So i don't want to pull it up. Can i use the application for my project? Best Regard Stats
@@johno-gb7ci This is the handbook for Ditra, Use the instructions on page 7, Page 17 for more details. Minimum thickness of plywood has to be 1/2" (13mm) sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi ok thanks. I've only ever used 9mm ply screwed every 150mm over floorboards without any matting and in 20 years never been called back. If you went with 12mm ply matting plus tile and adesive the height would be about 30mm, That's a lot. don't get me wrong I think it a good idea on concrete floors when there's cracks. but to use it over floorboards with 12mm ply then matting seems overboard plus expensive.
HI Sal! Mapei is using a different approach to mechanically bond the tile to the membrane, it seems. Does Schluter have a patent on the cutback in their Ditra, or does Mapei think that the mesh bonds better than the thinset to thinset trapped in the cutback with Ditra?
Thanks for the reply Sal, down here 🇦🇺 its code that all wet areas are waterproofed, ie: the whole bathroom area, I have just noticed that in some videos of work done over there the showers are done but not on the outside of the shower yet it is still in the bathroom area, if that makes sense? and in some cases the outside area had timber skirting put in instead of a tile skirting, this was not one of your videos tho, your work is great Sal, just curious 👍
Sal, how does this system compare price-wise to the Schluter system? Also I can't really tell since it's timelapsed, how long did the tiling part take? I find my mortar (Schluter Allset) mixed on the min water requirements seem to dry out very fast on a 2-3 hour job? You never seem to rush and your mortar is always fluid yet holds a trowel.
Sal DiBlasi thanks! I been installing tile for quite some time now and it's time to make life simpler on my self I've seen most of your videos and Lorne a lot from you Thanks! For sharing your knowledge you make it look easy and as you know it'll takes a true master to do something hard and make look easy
Sal, Another great video, how does the Mapegard um compare to Schlutter , when I lay tile on plywood I sand it with 80 grit then vacuum and dampen plywood so it does not suck the water out of the thin set, leaving the plywood rough gives the thin set some thing to attach itself to ie. rough wood fibers thanks keep the great videos coming Donald
Sanding might be a bit overkill, the thisnet will bond to the porous nature of plywood as long as you use the correct type of thinset. Vacuum and dampen are also an important part of the installation process.
Sal, the reason I sand is after ,drywall, painting is done the floor has a lot of compound ,paint, dirt, etc, this way I make sure I get the best bond, we always sand wood before staining or painting or applying glue this way the products we apply always penetrates better and make sure we get the best bond possible also it removes the mill glaze from the manufacturing process, also love shopping on dibs mart thanks Donald
Hi Sal , Thank you for your sharing , you know that I will not hesitate for just using Schulter dirta till I watched your video. There are too many limitation for using Schulter ditra . I believe , this brand might be better . Even I can use A118.15TE mortar on it at least for my large format tiles . But, still need a advise for how to choosing right Membranes. Would you be able to give a hint ? Thank you Death
I just put down some strata mat xt from Laticrete. Worked good so far. Mix the thinset a bit runny as directed or, my God, what a battle spreading it out with a trowel. Might look into that roller he had for the rest of my projects. The XT also used a lot of thinset on the top. 75 pounds worth did about 40 square feet. But I needed to get it raised to hardwood floor for an even transition and it did the trick.
Easy Mate makes on that is self adhesive on the back both the Easy Mate and the Crack buster Pro has sticky on the back. Just saying, might be easier, sure more expensive.
Sal, how do I determine the correct subfloor and underlayment combination for a tile floor? I have a job comming up on a 19/32", OSB, Sturd-I-Floor sub-floor. The Sturdi-I-Floor is rated for 20" joist spaceing but the joist are actually spaced at 16". The floor is down tight and feels very stiff but I am nervous. Is an uncoupling membrane enough? Or do I need to add a structural underlayment?
The correct subfloor is determined by the deflection and the type of tile that will be installed. For a Porcelain tile the deflection can be no more that L/360, for natural stone L/720. Determine your deflection and then decide on an underlayment. To help with that use this calculator called the "Deflectolator" www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl Usually an uncoupling membrane over the subfloor is sufficient. Here is the ditra handbook that will also be helpful. s3.amazonaws.com/scclegacy/media/ditra-handbook_eng.pdf?v=201507140600
We’ve been using mapai ultra flex 2 thinset lately and on our privious job we were using customs pro lite . Big difference. Anyway I really enjoy your videos your one of the best guys I’ve ever seen and knows his stuff. I also learned a lot from you when I began my career in the trade 👍
How about price point. I use membranes all the time Sal. I buy what's priced best. I'm Finding schluter product the most expensive. So if Mapei is a better buy I'll switch to this. I use a lot of Mapei products. Thinsets and grouts,
Eh, cement board glued and screwed every 6 in. would have done just fine. You're not going to have water pouring all over that floor as in the shower base that it needs to be 100% water proof...
Cement Board does not uncouple the floor or do all the other things an Uncoupling membrane will do. Does Cement board work? Yes. Is it as good as an uncoupling membrane? not even close.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Just wanted to thank you Sal for sharing your experience and knowledge with us. I have learned a lot from your videos from mixing mortar to waterproofing walls and floors, from cutting tiles to laying them flat and square. I am about to finish my first bath reno and i feel very proud of the end results. Thanks again.
Happy to hear that you found my videos useful, thanks for letting me know. 👍😀
You make it look so easy. I’m learning and seeing it with you, preparation is the foundation to quality tile work. I mean I prepare for all jobs I do, but the money is in the details and fine prep work. I guess that’s what 30 + years will give you.
Good tip holding the vacuum cleaner on the mixing bucket to keep the dust under control thanks!
I want to replace the vinyl squares in my kitchen with tile. The subfloor is 3/4" planks with 1/2" plywood over top of it. Can I use this directly over the vinyl or do I have to tear out the vinyl and put this over the plywood subfloor? If I do have to remove the vinyl, do I have to completely remove all glue residue? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
HI ✋️is there a multi purpose adhesive for sticking down decoupling waterpoof membrane and also using stick down tiles onto😢 membrane? Using the same adhesive?
Hey Sal. I just found out my distributer is switching to mapia UM underlayment. I was very happy to see that you recently posted a video about it! I watch you all the time. Just to keep up on new things. I've also started making my own videos. I'm filming today actually! Very nice backslash in PA. Thank you
Can you use the Mapeguard 2 as a uncoupling membrane as well? It does say Anti crack prevention..
Different technical term. Uncoupling and ant fracture are two different things.
Do I need to lay it all over the floor or can I just use it in a area where there’s a crack in the latex screed
What kind of knee pads are those? I want to get the knee pads that take care of 30+years in the biz
I always thought that mats are for horizontal movement and that cement boards are for vertical movement.
But what do I know.
Sal quick question. Is there a thin set that would work under and over the membrane. My project is only about 45 square feet. Tile will be large format. I was thinking of using Mapei Ultralite
Ultralite will work, use it all the time.
@@SalDiBlasi thank you for the help
Hello Sal. Thanks for all the help. I'm installing 12× 24 porcelain tile on an inside porch. Subloor is engineered plank wood. What would u suggest ?? Cement board or could I use this ? ? Thanks
Need a layer of at least 1/2" plywood, then I would install an uncoupling membrane.
Hi, can i use 100 lbs roller over the uncoupling membrane?
75 pounds max
@@SalDiBlasi thanks
Sal, what are those tile spacers called? It appears they not only control joint space but aid in keeping tile surfaces flush with each other?
This might help ruclips.net/video/3GFkOiWvbUA/видео.html
Hi Sal. Thanks for this video, you are awesome! One question: you say you are gonna use UltraFlex 2, and then go on to say you're going to use UltraFlex LFT. Which did you actually use? And did you use the same for both 1. substrate to membrane and 2 membrane to tiles adhesion?
Ultraflex 2 to install the membrane, LFT to install the tile.
That's sold over here as dural dura base, but yellow.. I use it all the time. Have you used the flexbone 2 easy, that is not stuck to the floor,.. just roll out and tile?
I am hoping to use 12 x 24 porcelin on 300 ft concrete basement floor. Hoping because I need your opinion on this. The concrete floor is relatively flat - however not really level in many areas - not within acceptable guidelines. Self leveling cement not really an option. Would you suggest 1/4 “ grout lines? Would you recommend 12 x12 instead? Any suggestions please. Thanks
Does not have to be level,just flat. I would suggest you get it as flat as possible before installing tile. You can do some spot patching with a cement based patch if you don't want to use self leveler.
Please please Sal I have two more questions, I realize you are a busy man. 1. Do you think using ditra XL would be provide a more forgiving surface for installing my tiles. Also, i plan on using 12x24 porcelin. Would 12 x12 with 3/16 grout lines reduce lippage issues that I will likely have to deal with on my basement concrete floor. Thanks for your helpful videos.
Ditra XL will not help with an uneven floor. Smaller tiles and the wider the grout line, are more forgiving than larger tiles and narrower grout lines. That does not mean you should not fix your floor before you install the tile.
Sal DiBlasi thanks I understand. Will use regular ditra and put in more time on leveling. Thanks very much
Thank you from England for all your great videos!
Do you need to use an SBR primer on a ply floor?
No need
Sadly theres no Schluter in Australia. So I may have to use backer board. Do the paint like membranes offer the same as the uncoupling membranes?
No, liquid applied does not uncouple.
Glad too see your finally using proknees as well 👍 best custom knee pads ever
Had them for quite a while, best knee pads money can buy.
Used pro knees for decades as a union carpenter. I tried every type of knee pad before I broke down and spent the money . They are comfortable and can be rebuilt and repaired . Anyone who works on their knees at all should have a pair.
JAYJAYJAY53 it’s time to rebuild mines . But for the rebuild price of 160$ I think I rather just buy a new pair and have a back up ....
I just got myself a pair of Proknees, how long do they usually last before needing to be replaced or rebuilt?
The Milk Man they lasted me about 3 years of everyday use ... only my straps are worn out and the white face other then that they are still great
What mortar do you recommend for membrane to cement?
Pretty much any quality mortar will work.
Can you use that membrain on shower walls instead of kerdi board?
no
What’s you opinion on this vs Detra? Which do you like better/prefer? Do you have a video explaining the difference between different membranes?
All the uncoupling membranes work the same way, it is more about availability and personal preference than about which is better. This Mapei product is a great product and I will probably use it again.
Can you use this product in a shower even though you use modified thinset? Thought latex was organic And was a food source for mold growth? Thanks Sal
Hey Sal,
Preparing to tile with an uncoupling membrane for tile over an old hardwood floor on a few areas. 3/4 diagonal slat subfloor with 5/8 hardwood. Do I need a plywood or OSB for the membrane to adhere correctly?
Hard wood has to come out, no ifs ands or buts.
What happens if you install the membranes upside down? Any ideas?
Take it up start over.
Hi Salfrom England.Loving your videos.Once the adhesive is mixed how long is the working time on it.
Hi Sal, for a basement cement floor in the laundry, do I use an uncoupling membrane on top then i can put an infloor heat system and finish floor?
Watch this ruclips.net/video/MRePyvEFBXs/видео.html
Hey Sal... What kind of knee pads are those??? They look super comfortable.
Nvm. Lol. I should've looked at the comments before I asked. Thanks!
That looks very similar to the Dural material. It has a similar netting material on the top. I’ve used all the others ... and they all seem to work about the same. Was wondering what was recommended for base top thin set. Modified or un-modified. I love it. So much easier to put down than backer. Take care.
I used Mapei Ultraflex LFT to set the tile.
Why modified thinset on top of the membrane for the tiles? Can we use unmodified thinset to set tiles on? I know modified thinset is to be used to set uncoupling membrane on top of plywood.
Here is the thing, if the manufacturer calls for modified, as Mapei does, then you use modified, if they call for something else, then that is what you use. Not following their recommendations will void the warranty, does not necessarily mean it will fail, but it does mean you will be on your own if there is a problem. So follow instructions and trust that it has been tested to work best the way the manufacturer says to do it.
Hi Sal, given the context of the installation in this video, I incorrectly assumed your comments here about using modified thinset was only valid for plywood installation. After looking at the manufacturer's spec I was surprised that you meant what you said ... in that this can also be installed on cement with modified thinset too! If this is cheaper than ditra (according to my search), requires less thinset to install, and you can use modified thinset, is there any advantage to using a product like Ditra over mapeguard?
Maybe you're right but Sal has been tiling for 30 years that's very convincible to me as well.
Ren what do u mean? He uses both ditra and mapeguard. Nothing i said contradicted something sal said
can I use the same Mapei thinnest ultraflex 2 and ultraflex lft with Schluter ditra in the same manner as the uncoupling membrane?
cause I saw in another video, on top of the membrane has to be unmodified mortar, but I saw in other videos Mapei uncoupling is the same process... PLEASE HELP
If you want to keep the Schluter warranty, then either use unmodified to set the tile or Schluter Allset. The ultraflex 2 is fine to install the ditra. If you use Mapei MapeGard UM, the yuo can use the Mapei thinsets as described in the video. Will the thinsets work for ditra, yes, but you will forfeit the warranty.
@@SalDiBlasi ok... got it. im going to return the ultraflex lft to get the Kerabond T (unmodified) to do the floors. such a huge learning curve for a newbie DIY'er. Thanks for your videos and advice
one more question, my project manager suggested not to silicone bead the shower pan and tile meet. what are your thoughts on that? backbone of the shower, water vapor barrier, hardie backer board, kerdiband to waterproof the edges of the shower, mapei aqua defense and mortar and tile. so I saw in your videos to silicone the meets of the shower with silicone with denatured alcohol. im not sure on his suggestion
@@lindahuynh2602 Sounds like a mix of systems put together in an attempt to make a waterproof shower. I would certainly not be doing that.
What spacers did you use?
Great videos Sal. Curious as to how you do your bids. Do you have a price sheet that you have established or do you use an estimating software? Would love to see your pricing to help me better grasp the costs for the craftsmanship you put out. Many thanks....
This is where you will find a lot of answers tilemoney.com/
@@SalDiBlasi Much appreciated.
Sal,
Can i do this over linoleum floor. I am pretty sure that the linoleum is from the 70s. So i don't want to pull it up. Can i use the application for my project?
Best Regard
Stats
Depends, best to contact Mapei to find out what conditions need to be met.
Do you ever stick this straight to floorboards?
no
Ok so if you had floor boards your'd go over in say a 9mm ply. screw say every 150mmx150mm then SBR ply then go over with this matting?
@@johno-gb7ci This is the handbook for Ditra, Use the instructions on page 7, Page 17 for more details. Minimum thickness of plywood has to be 1/2" (13mm) sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h66/h6e/8917114126366/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
@@SalDiBlasi ok thanks. I've only ever used 9mm ply screwed every 150mm over floorboards without any matting and in 20 years never been called back. If you went with 12mm ply matting plus tile and adesive the height would be about 30mm, That's a lot. don't get me wrong I think it a good idea on concrete floors when there's cracks. but to use it over floorboards with 12mm ply then matting seems overboard plus expensive.
HI Sal! Mapei is using a different approach to mechanically bond the tile to the membrane, it seems. Does Schluter have a patent on the cutback in their Ditra, or does Mapei think that the mesh bonds better than the thinset to thinset trapped in the cutback with Ditra?
It may be that, but also that it us easier to fill if there is no cutback.
Hi Sal, in the bathroom area, outside the shower is it not necessary to waterproof it ?
Just Flicking I would, especially on the second floor of a residence. And do a 24 hr flood test and inspect for leaks. Better safe then sorry
Is it necessary? No, is it a good idea? Yes Have I done it? Many times.
Thanks for the reply Sal, down here 🇦🇺 its code that all wet areas are waterproofed, ie: the whole bathroom area, I have just noticed that in some videos of work done over there the showers are done but not on the outside of the shower yet it is still in the bathroom area, if that makes sense? and in some cases the outside area had timber skirting put in instead of a tile skirting, this was not one of your videos tho, your work is great Sal, just curious 👍
You seem to be able to use the adhesive for a lot longer than the usual pot life
Check the pot life and open time of the thinset you are using, it can vary greatly by brand and type.
@@SalDiBlasi Thanks Sal
Sal, how does this system compare price-wise to the Schluter system? Also I can't really tell since it's timelapsed, how long did the tiling part take? I find my mortar (Schluter Allset) mixed on the min water requirements seem to dry out very fast on a 2-3 hour job? You never seem to rush and your mortar is always fluid yet holds a trowel.
They are all about the same, availability is more of a factor. Mix the thinset at the high end of the water, and mix according to directions.
Anyone know what the dust extractor nozzle that attaches to the bucket while mixing is called?
WaleTale amzn.to/2JoVo6w
Mapegard UM membrane, or you a Detra fan? which one do you like now a days? and do you use unmodified on Mapegard like on the detra?
Both great products, use modified with UM
Hi! Sal what kind of laser you recommend for showers and floors? Thanks!
Here is the combo kit, had mine for a few years now. amzn.to/2NedTIX
Sal DiBlasi thanks! I been installing tile for quite some time now and it's time to make life simpler on my self I've seen most of your videos and Lorne a lot from you Thanks! For sharing your knowledge you make it look easy and as you know it'll takes a true master to do something hard and make look easy
Thanks, use everything at your disposal to make life easier.
Hey Sal, does it matter which way the floor joists are running with this method an same tile you are laying?
No
Sal, Another great video, how does the Mapegard um compare to Schlutter , when I lay tile on plywood I sand it with 80 grit then vacuum and dampen plywood so it does not suck the water out of the thin set, leaving the plywood rough gives the thin set some thing to attach itself to ie. rough wood fibers thanks keep the great videos coming Donald
Sanding might be a bit overkill, the thisnet will bond to the porous nature of plywood as long as you use the correct type of thinset. Vacuum and dampen are also an important part of the installation process.
Sal, the reason I sand is after ,drywall, painting is done the floor has a lot of compound ,paint, dirt, etc, this way I make sure I get the best bond, we always sand wood before staining or painting or applying glue this way the products we apply always penetrates better and make sure we get the best bond possible also it removes the mill glaze from the manufacturing process, also love shopping on dibs mart thanks Donald
If the plywood is contaminated and needs to be sanded, then yes by all means do what is needed.
Sal, thank you for your quick reply, would love to meet you or talk to you, I always look forward to your videos thank you a loyal fan
I attend Coverings every year, always meet a lot of people there.
Hi Sal , Thank you for your sharing , you know that I will not hesitate for just using Schulter dirta till I watched your video.
There are too many limitation for using Schulter ditra . I believe , this brand might be better . Even I can use A118.15TE mortar on it at least for my large format tiles .
But, still need a advise for how to choosing right Membranes. Would you be able to give a hint ?
Thank you
Death
I just put down some strata mat xt from Laticrete. Worked good so far. Mix the thinset a bit runny as directed or, my God, what a battle spreading it out with a trowel. Might look into that roller he had for the rest of my projects. The XT also used a lot of thinset on the top. 75 pounds worth did about 40 square feet. But I needed to get it raised to hardwood floor for an even transition and it did the trick.
Any of the brand name uncoupling membranes will work just fine, buy the one you are comfortable with and follow the manufacturer recommendations.
Mapei is my go to Sal. Love their stuff. Great video as always
Which better schluter or mapigaurd?
It is not a matter of better or worse. it will come down to preference and availability. However I will say that I did like it.
Thanks for the response it's hard to find mapei products in my area any more, used to see it every where, now its all tec products
Hey sal I was told it's possible to Staple this to the a Woden floor, I'm not sure about this, would this be true, ? great upload's keep them coming 👍
Never do that.
Hey Sal, am I able to use this over hardwood floor?
Absolutely not.
Easy Mate makes on that is self adhesive on the back both the Easy Mate and the Crack buster Pro has sticky on the back. Just saying, might be easier, sure more expensive.
Sal, is that a 1/8 grout line?
yes
@@SalDiBlasi 👍
Is an uncoupling membrane a replacement for cement board?
Yes a superior replacement.
I LIKE THAT ONE WHITOUT ELECTRIC CORD
Hi sal, great video, can I use ultraflex 2 with Ditra or any mapei product thank you
Yes you can Ultra flex 2 or other thinset mortar, any product would be a bit of a stretch, you can't use Mastic for example.
Sal thank you so much you’re best
Sal, how do I determine the correct subfloor and underlayment combination for a tile floor? I have a job comming up on a 19/32", OSB, Sturd-I-Floor sub-floor. The Sturdi-I-Floor is rated for 20" joist spaceing but the joist are actually spaced at 16". The floor is down tight and feels very stiff but I am nervous. Is an uncoupling membrane enough? Or do I need to add a structural underlayment?
The correct subfloor is determined by the deflection and the type of tile that will be installed. For a Porcelain tile the deflection can be no more that L/360, for natural stone L/720. Determine your deflection and then decide on an underlayment. To help with that use this calculator called the "Deflectolator" www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl Usually an uncoupling membrane over the subfloor is sufficient. Here is the ditra handbook that will also be helpful. s3.amazonaws.com/scclegacy/media/ditra-handbook_eng.pdf?v=201507140600
Also this app is very useful appadvice.com/app/tile-geeks/1193017374 Apple
Android play.google.com/store/apps/developer?id=Tile+Geeks&hl=en
Thanks, Sal. that app will come in handy.
Another great job by an awesome Tradesman!!!!!
a question, where could you buy the Mapeguard UM Underlayment Membrane? thank you.
Any tile store that sells Mapei product should carry it.
Thanks, although I have not really come to see them in stores around here in Orlando.
Is this membrane flatter than ditra? I hate installing tile over a bunch of holes like ditra....Backerboard is smooth and flat much better than ditra
You will probably like it.
good job Sal
I hate working thinset mortor... to sandy . We just installed some of this material on top of our dry pack at work
Thinset is the way we set tiles, not much choice but to use it.
I wrote it wrong I meant that brand of thinset . Haha
We’ve been using mapai ultra flex 2 thinset lately and on our privious job we were using customs pro lite . Big difference. Anyway I really enjoy your videos your one of the best guys I’ve ever seen and knows his stuff. I also learned a lot from you when I began my career in the trade 👍
Prolite is a different kind of thinset to Ulrtraflex 2, Try Mapei Ultralite, more like the ProLite only better.
Great Video Sal.
The work is too difficult. stooping and or kneeling makes my back ache awfully.
How about price point. I use membranes all the time Sal. I buy what's priced best. I'm Finding schluter product the most expensive. So if Mapei is a better buy I'll switch to this. I use a lot of Mapei products. Thinsets and grouts,
For the large roll, it was about the same.
That vacuum attachment for the dust😎
Yes
nice one
Thanks
Good video.
Nice!
Thanks!
get some ear muffs ya madman. The vacumm is loud, but the drill screams
Eh, cement board glued and screwed every 6 in. would have done just fine. You're not going to have water pouring all over that floor as in the shower base that it needs to be 100% water proof...
Cement Board does not uncouple the floor or do all the other things an Uncoupling membrane will do. Does Cement board work? Yes. Is it as good as an uncoupling membrane? not even close.
Kamil Zieba try using cement board on the west coast! It's also earthquake resistant!