Great explanation of different thinsets, anyone that actually watches the whole video will be well informed.....however, I take exception to your statement @3:45 when you say a failure of a tile job was caused by using the wrong thinset, there were prob mitigating circumstances but I would love to SEE evidence a tile fell off simply because a modified was used where an un-modified was called for...or vice versa...
Thanks! In relation to the schluter kurdi membrane, where you are supposed to have a modified thin set, if you use a modified then set it may never cure properly. By the way I enjoy your channel and am already a subscriber for many months now. I love the walk throughs that you do of the bad tile jobs From other contractors.
Good explanation of ansi Jeff 👍🏼 more people need to understand ansi.Best example I’ve seen is mix 1 cup non modified thin set and 1 cup modified thin set put both separately in a ziplock bag sealed tight leave overnight and guess which one is rock solid? That’s when you’ll understand why schluter specifically calls for unmodified thin set.
You want evidences? I will give you my case...we were forced to strip EVERYTHING back to scratches because of that after massive failure after 3/5 years time from job. 6 years later everything is spot on and no concerns whatsoever.
Please don't be discouraged by the negative comments. I needed your style of teaching. I needed the time you took to teach it. All the 5 minute talks and all the charts are useless if not comprehended by the student. I have been looking for a modified/unmodified explanation that I could understand and their use for a long time. Great job.
I agree! People can be so darn rude! They can just NOT watch the video if they don't like the video content or click with the presentation style, but to actually take the time to make a negative and rude comment shows what an idiot that person is. It's very generous that someone took their time and made an instructional video for others to learn from! We should be gracious!
Thanks for the in depth explanation of all the thin sets and their standards. This was a great help. I appreciate anyone who takes what they do seriously, gives quality information and not just looking to make a quick video.
Thanks Paul! It's funny how other visitors to this video below commented, complained that this was too long and boring, LOL! I had intended this to be a master class, covering the engineering science behind why we do what we do when we tile.
I have never heard anyone tell all the differences in the thinset mortar like you have and make it understood like you have. I am so happy to heard all that you have said about the thinset and how and which one to use, you need to be a teacher on new guys just learning the trade, for us women to not be worried about them not knowing which ones to use when we have to hire this done for us older single women who can't do tiling.
Beautifully explained! I research my projects inside and out as well. I take my time so it is done properly. You brought another level to my process: the ANSI standards. I used to ask a sales person, sometimes that works out but sometimes it doesn't and one ends up with the wrong product. Thank you, this by far is the best of the best explained and pointed to the right direction.
Finally, a good video on explaining the difference between UNMODIFIED (uncoupling) and MODIFIED (coupling) THIN SETS. AWESOME JOB.. only 1 issue, the part where you show the bathroom tiles, that SAGGED.. (you said adding a second bead of caulk around the tub... I AWESOME YOU ALSO WOULD OF MENTIONED, YOU SHOULD REMOVE ALL THE TILES, OLD THIN SET ECT, AND USE THE CORRECT THINSET (BASICALLY STARTING ALL OVER, THUS DOING IT RIGHT) THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
Man... This is one of those videos that is actually worthy of watching all together... For the DIY (me) or Professional. Thank you for your time and effort. I would gladly donate you. I'll suscribe and like for now. Thank you!!!
Right in the middle of doing a tile shower and your video helped me very much-needed thank you! I always research the particular trade that I'm learning and your explanation has just increased my knowledge and understanding. Good Job 👍
Wow bro! You did an outstanding job on explaining everything! I’m a DIY guy for my own home remodeling. I’ve got a collection of YT videos then finally going and looking up the ANSI recommendations and everything was as clear as mud! Then, I come across your video. Everything clicks now! Haha, Thanks for your experience and knowledge!
hi Jeff, great video...1 thing im very impressed with..you answer almost all comments and questiions. I follow alot of diy channels and your the best..thanks
Wow! Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to explain the “why’s” and what could happen if you do X vs Y. I thought I was ready to go until you explained the pictures on the back of the bag regarding application areas. Thankyou!
Long video but worth watching, even you are not setting tile yourself. Will help ensure that you select the right products or to ensure that your tile guy is using the right products.
@@jeffostroff Tell me something else if you know. For kitchen tiles I used a premixed Mapei Ultramastic ECO (ANSI A136.1). This one seems to be stickier than thinset - I remember from when I was a kid that folks used to add wood glue in thinset to make "tile mortar" (grew up in Eastern Europe). Do you have any idea if it's still the case with A136.1 and how does this compare with A118.15T? I have to lay some 12x24 tiles and I don't wanna make a mistake. Also, is the membrane a must? I'm laying it over concrete in some storage underneath the stairs: we want to make a nice storage are that's easy to clean, so we're finishing it with ceramic tiles, paining the wood to seal it and whatnot. I have about 28 sq ft to cover.
@@jeffostroff PS: I actually found the explanation here: www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/finishes/tile-mortar-types.html . My use of A136.1 was ill informed (trust the store clerk, never again) - not good for kitchens and humidity. I had this large I had to redo under the stove (moved it along with the furniture pattern) and I was wondering why it didn't cure after 24h - I needed some A118 type mortar.
@@cubul32 I don't like Mastic of any kind. They are glues (technically called organic adhesives in the A1361 spec.), but they are NOT mortars, they are not cement, they are a different animal. Mapei Ultramastic ECO is a Type 1 A136.1 Adhesive, and guess what, you tell me you have 12" x 24" tiles, you can't use this product, it only allows up to 6" x 6" tiles on floors, and 10" x 10" tile son floors. MAPEI may be better than other brands of Mastic I don't know, but the few I tried in the fast were dismal failures, they don't dry hard like mortar, and they don't seem to want to cure either. I can't even imagine anyone using it for floor either. They are not mortars. So there is still movement under them. I used a mastic from in a small container from Home Depot 3 years ago on a linen closet thinking it won't be that bad, no one will walk on it, but 3 days later the tiles can still be wiggled! I swore that's the last time I will try using mastic. All the best tile experts you'll see warn you NEVER use mastic, I have no clue why they even make it. For me, nothing beats tried an true mortar with a good latex modifier. The A115.1 spec refers to an "improved" latex modified thinset mortar when compared to A118.4 or A118.11 modified thinsets. It's simply the best of the best of modified mortars, which Schluter Allset is an A115.1 and LFT. If you plan to use MAPEI, go with their Ultraflex LFT modified tile mortar for large format tile, which you have. Great product, I used it sometimes myself, it resists sag (A115.1TE) on their spec: www.mapei.com/public/US/products/BR_A118.15-EN.pdf
@@jeffostroff I got LFT indeed, same mentality here - the package got a makeover here in Quebec - they call it Large Tile Mortar now (www.rona.ca/en/ultraflex-lft-tile-mortar-21085482). As far as I was reading, the Mastic needs space to evaporate, kinda like Schulter and modified thinset. Mine was 1ft sq or so; but it's mostly under the furniture and a bit under the stove (so it's there for the look in the 1/8 crack). So: I'll be fine. Lesson learned; thanks to you, thank you :) . The more I DYI the more I get serious and start researching and preparing. edit: my board dried in 2-3 days fyi - I could tell it was moving after 24h, really got me worried. Now trying to figure out grout sizes. I could only find a leveling system for 1/16 (Rubi - looks like T lock and whatnot). And I have 1/8 stars from before. I wanted a 1/8 leveling system but Canadian stores are retarded like that sometimes especially in Quebec state (damn French entrepreneurial mentality sometimes but you gotta love them otherwise). How did you choose grout width? So far I understand 1/16 can lead to noticeable lipage but looks good if done well, 1/8 is a great compromise of the two: easy to set but wide grouts are not as "purteeeh".
Hi Jeff, I hope your doing well. I wanted to say thank you soooo much for the time you put in to help us through this detailed video. It was very helpful really appreciate it. Thanks
Thank you for this! I got the Kerdi board - and I researched that you'd have to use the all-set purpose Schluter modified, or an unmodified thin-set. The big box store I was at had a ton of products, and I could not tell which one to get, and for some reason.. they didn't have the Schluter brand there either. I watched your entire video in the store, and ended up walking out and going to a different store, they didn't have un-modified! Really glad this was out there.
Jeff this was a really great explanation regarding thin-set mortar, and how to read and understand the labels-even if someone is NOT a professional contractor! Thank you!!! I was very interested in your video as well since I was trying to understand the differences between Mapei products (adhesives and grouts) for my mosaic projects. Since I live in Italy and am having a hard time understanding which Italian products (thin set, Mastic, Mirror Silicone adhesives, etc.) I can buy and use for my mosaic projects that are equivalent to ours in the U.S.A. You can't imagine how difficult it is to translate everything and try to find the same- just to do a project! They do not have a market for 'projects', nor are they big on DIY home improvements, so their 'home improvement stores' are extremely limited in what they carry and product diversity! So, unless you're a professional, know what you're doing, and have access to needed products, it can be a huge hardship. I recently found Mapei products (which is a famous Italian company), but I'm having a hard time understanding the differences between all their products (their package explanation is very vague and repetitive), and which one is best for me to use for my mosaic projects. I loved your explanations on the 3 Mapei products!! Could you please tell me, if you know, the differences between Mapei UltraMastic III or 5, and Mapei Adesilex P22, and for what exactly they are best used for? Those were the products some Italian artists were using here for their mosaic projects; they were using ceramic tiles, stained glass tiles, and smalti on wood, cement, and other base substrates. I would like to better understand in which situation and for what material these Mapei products could be (properly) used. Are any of the Mapei products the equivalent to our U.S.A. thin-set mortar? Also, on the Mapei Keracolor S, sanded grout, you explained that it was modified with polymer. Could you please explain what the added polymer is good for, and in what situation I would want that in my grout? Does Mapei have other grout products that are not sanded or are sanded but without the added polymer- and in what situation are those better to use? Thank you for all your professional advice! I look forward to watching more of your videos. I think you could write a well-advised and easily understood book on creating mosaics; small tile projects that would be a best seller!
i don't know anything about Mapei UltraMastic III or 5, and Mapei Adesilex P22, but if you email MAPEI, they do answer you. I steer clear of mastics, only thinset mortar should ever be used for tiles ever. Mastics often don't cure, and fall apart in humidity. Grout modifiers are for thigs like crack prevention, and sealing the grout to minimize water absorption. They probably have unsanded and unmodified grouts, but yo will have to seal the grout afterwards, and every 5 years.
Very, very helpful. Uninformed Lowes clerk was pointing me to the wrong stuff so I decided to go home and do further research. Doing a kerdi board shower and can't find unmodified except for the really cheap ($7) junk you mentioned. It's bizarre the big box stores sell kerdi board and fabric but not Schluter All Set or even Kerdi Fix. It doesn't help the bags use marketing language like "fortified" too.
Yes, this is one of our longer Masterclass videos. You can see how much engineering there really is involved and how much there is to keep track of. A lot of people want to rush through it, but then they end up with failures.
So i figured out that I need unmodified thinset for Kerdi board, but didnt know 12x24 was largeformat and needed Kerabknd T and not just Kerabond. Was trying to save money and now will end up getting schluter All set anyways, and have to sell the Kerabond. Thanks for the video, wish I saw it sooner!
@10:30 you mention the thinset taking 28 days to dry because it trapped between two impervious layers. What about if you waterproof the substrate you’re adhering to with say Hydraban? Wouldn’t it have the same effect?
Great, enlightening video.👍🏻I have a very small bath niche project, where I want to install porcelain tile. Can I get away with using unmodified thin set (bought a huge bag for Kerdi band)considering it’s only 14” by 12” space. Even tho it’s in the shower, it is relatively far away from constant water spray/exposure and no grout to be used, just caulk around edges. It’ll be adhered to wood, but i waterproof painted the wood first. Thx!
Yes you can for that small area far away from the water if you already have the mortar, should not be an issue, but I would not do any walls of the wet part of the shower with it. I always buy The Schluter All-Set anyway, so I am covered no matter what substrate I am on.
@@rudysmachado5747 I would just place all the tiles in place and wait a few days before you grout.. If you can wait even a week or so that would be even better because it would give the mortar more time to cure.
Can a polymer modified thinset be used with tile under a woodstove, or would heat degrade the polymer? Likewise, would a Schluter Kerdi-board be a problem? Seems that a cement-based backer board would handle the heat better.
Hopefully there's not too much heat coming down but that I'll below it I think would be a insulator to the mortar. You would have to check on the package and see if there was any temperature requirements. I personally don't think there would be a problem with it
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what mortar to use for 12x24 porcelain tile over Ditra. Wish I would have found you sooner!!🖖
Awesome job on the explanation, I saved the video to my constuction tutorial/ watch later list, for future reference. I learned a lot this morning, thank you! Subbed.
Thanks for a great video. Would modified thinset mortar technicality not be good for tiling any tile over a waterproof wall such as Kerdi, Red guard, etc since the mortar would be trapped between 2 impervious surfaces?
Phil, it's confusing about whhich manufacturer wants what. Kerdi wants you to use unmodified thinset to tile onto their products. But redgaurd says use modified thinset. I don't know why, I'm simply not a chemical engineer, but it boggles the mind. I just go with what they say. My favorite one to use is Schluter's Allset because it can be used on anything, and as I showed, it supports all the specs of a modified and unmodified thinset.
Thank you for such a detail overview of the motar / thinset. It has help me understand the chemistry behind the product. Definitely same me a-lot of time reading super small print at the store and confusion… Thank you.
Great video. Glad I watched this and read your answers to some comments below. I am putting redguard over durock. I will be taking my primix bucket of mortor back to Menards, and getting some high quality bags of modified thinset. Thanks again.
For glass they definitely recommend a polymer modified thin set. So far the last few years I've exclusively been using schluter allset Which finally they started to carry at floren décor so now I can just drive up the street to our local Florida décor store and buy the thin set mortar. And whatever you do make sure you only get white. But you also need to double check with wetty about what they prefer on their boards. I suspect they require a latex modified thin set like thinks that like the all set is but you always got a double check on every every item as to what is required.
Will modified on Kerdi eventually cure with enough time exposed, before putting tile on. I have condensation appearing on the back of tile as I dry fit 1st row on tub flange?
The one benefit of unmodified thinset is that it is a hydration curing mortar, whereas modified thinset is an evaporation type of curing, so needs things to dry out over 30 days or so. But unmodified thinset thrive and cures better, and it's crystals form better in the presence of moisture. As you know, mortars cure with time each day, so when you get it all tiled, you can let it all rest a day or 2 also no harm in that.
People tile over tile all the time you may want to roughen it up first with a grinder but it might not really be necessary. The only issue is how is it going to look along the edges? Maybe you can cover up the edges with tile as well cut slivers of tile to cover that up
@@victorquiroz3048 I doubt very much that there is any difference and drying time between the 2 tile sizes unless the bag has instructions that specifies otherwise I usually just let it dry overnight. Keep in mind that thin set continues to cure and gain in strength over the next month.
@@victorquiroz3048 redguard requires that you use modified thinset for the tile. Modified thinset is fortified with latex which is organic and is a food source for mold growth. In a shower, you should only use unmodified thinset.
Awesome video! I DO appreciate the in-depth information... I'm slowly working through a bathroom remodel myself - and I was thinking of using 12"x24" marble tile on the walls of my shower. From even this thorough explanation, I'm still a bit unsure of what to use - other than the Schluter Allset product, is there something else commercially available to fit this application? Large format tile, impervious backplane, natural stone... What do you think??
Can u help me get or where to purchase the TCNA and the ANSI books for 2023 updated I already passed the law and business exams I failed by 10 questions on the tile trade portion
I'm using Hydro Ban and porcelain LFT. Since a painted-on membrane is impervious just like Kerdi board, I'm assuming modified thinset would take forever to cure. On the other hand, adhesion would be greater. I'm leaning toward unmodified so I can grout without waiting a month, but I also hear that modified is better most of the time. Any ideas on settling this debate?
Hello Jeff, my undsrstanding based on your video is that I have to use unmodified thinset on 1/2 inch self leveling concrete that was poured on plywood subfloor? Am I correct on this? I cannot use polymer modifed thinset? This is for entire bathroom porcelain floor installation.
You would only need non-modified if you were using a Schluter Ditra or Kerdi product underneath the tile. But with just concrete over already poured leveler, you would use modified thinset if tile is going directly on the thinset mortar.
Excellent video. I'm tiling LFT onto painted sheetrock wall. I planned on using modified thinset. Should I score the walls (breaking through the paint) so the thinset moisture has somewhere to go?
This is not a good idea. First of all are you doing this in a bathroom? If this is in any room that could have moisture like a bathroom, you should not be applying LHT over painted drywall, but rather new unpainted drywall. I'm not a fan of tiling onto drywall, unless it's small like a back splash in a kitchen. If tiles were small, I'd say maybe you could tile onto the painted drywall with a primer coating first you might get away with it, but the soundest method would be to remove the painted drywall and replace it with Densshield, or cementitious boards like Wonderboard or Hardibacker board. If it's not directly in the shower surround area, you don't need to waterproof the cementitious board first.
@@jeffostroff Wow, thank you for the quick answer. It's not a bathroom. This is a tall fireplace (about 12' tall by 6" wide). painted drywall (very solidly adhered to the cinder block, cement, framing etc underneath). The tile are 12x24 porcelain. So. it's a very dry area, very smooth and flat.
What to use for an outside kitchen island? Thin brick application over cement board. I’m trying some masonry mix by quickrete but it just seems too sandy
Thank Jeff this was an awesome video. I want to tile my backsplash in the kitchen. Its brand new painted wall consisting drywall with a new application of knockdown. The tile size is 3" x 9" and I am going after the standard subway pattern. My question is can I use glue/mastic (If yes what product would you suggest) or if glue is a hard no than what thin-set would you recommend for this application?
I see you are NOT wearing knee pads.I am now sixty,knees are shot,knee pads,knee board and a chunk of styrofoam nearby at all times...VERY GOOD INFORMATIVE VIDEO my friend,a must know.
Hi, great video. I am planning to use the DUROCK cement board cement backer board for my shower walls and I am going to roll it with AquaDefense membrane. Which mortar should I use? Thanks
Kendy, the instructions for MAPEI AquaDefense state that: "For tile and stone installations, use MAPEI polymer-modified or epoxy mortars. " They also state if your using large heavy tiles or large format tiles, you have to let the AquaDefense cure overnight before tiling.
This is great! I learned a ton here! I was wondering I there is a good thin set I could use on a concrete floor that has a bit of linoleum adhesive left over?
Is there a lot of adhesive or is it all over the floor? I'd check with the manufacturer about maybe rolling a primer on first, or they may tell you their thin set is good enough to use as is. Most pro flooring companies will prefer to grind the floor, takes about an hour with an angle grinder and a large 6" to 9" bowl grinding wheel.
@@jeffostroff thanks so much for getting back to me! I’ve managed to scrape most of it up with a lot of elbow grease and warm water. There are some areas that show it on the floor but nothing is taking it up. Not water not heat not even adhesive remover. That’s great advise about contacting the manufacturer. I spoke to the seller and he said I would be good to go. The brand is Versa Bond it’s modified and I’m laying down ceramic tile. They are about 17 inch long by 4 inch wide.
Can you use thinset as grout. I have thinset coming through my pebble tile,. It's dried and solid as a rock.. oops. If I seal it will it be ok? I have pvc liner water proofing and a mortar bed with aqua defense below tile. The color thinset is similar to grout. It's a mapei thinset
Usually the grouts have sealers in them they help prevent staining and absorption, which thinset does nothave. Why not chisel the thinset out of there and grout it?
Just finished a shower wall tile project with Kurdi. I didn't research the modified vs non-modified thinset application instructions. The walls are porcelain tiled with modified thinset but not grouted . Will the thinset cure if I wait a month before grouting??? What do I do???
i have my tub shower area ready to tile . walls are 1/2 durock sealed joints and coated with redguard. what would be the correct thinset for my 4x16 white ceramic tiles ? thanks in advance for your reply
Jeff, when do you use the modified stuff? I’m looking at installing ditra through the whole house, including in living areas. Can we use modified adhesive on ditra if it’s NOT in the bathroom?
If I am installing porcelain tile on a concrete slab floor, I will use modified thin set. But the last 2 years I've been exclusively using the Schluter Allset Because it meets and exceeds all ratings for modified and unmodified thin sets
Thanks @@jeffostroff . What do you think of Mapeguard UM? In the UK, I can get the Mapei products (adhesives and membranes etc) but shulter is not widely available and very expensive) I’ve also read that Mapei UM35 (competitor to Shulter Ditra) can be laid with modified thinset.
Great video but let pose another question to you. If I roller redgard or aquaban or ardex onto my hardibacker board and make it imperious to water then install porcelain or ceramic tile using modified thinset which is recommended haven't i just done the same thing that Shuluter says not to because of drying issues?? If I read it right modified thinset is the way to go because of its bonding strength however i just now sandwiched it in between two imperious surfaces reducing its drying ability
Schluter's product is different than these waterproofing membranes, which are formulated to work with latex modified mortars. Schluter prefers non-modified thin sets, or the use of their own modified thinnest called Allset, which is what I use
Thanks Jeff question for you , I understand about the need to use unmodified mortar for Kerdi board because of the evaporation needed for the mortar to cure properly due to the waterproof of the kerdi , so my question is if I’m using hardie backer and roll on two coats of Redgard would I still need to use an unmodified mortar ? Because now the hardie backer is waterproof due to the paint on membrane, thanks .
Great video, I want to put ecoprime and ditra heat over 2x2 inch existing tiles. They are well bonded for 35 years, and almost impossible to remove. what would you use for morter? Modified, or unmodified ?
With Kurdi board I would be very careful to only use what Schluter recommends. I have been using exclusively the last four years Schluter AllSet modified thinset because Schluter has told us they made it, they are in control of the process and they know that even though it is a modified thinset it will work on their products and it will be perfect so that is what I have been using.
I know this is an older video, but almost everyone is using modified thinsets (including Schluter all-set). All of them (including Schluter) have curing agents that allow curing without the presence of air.
Regarding large format porcelain tile for shower walls: if you’re using Durock with red guard is the schlutter all set still a better choice or ultraflex lft?
Over the last couple of years, I have grown to really appreciate the quality of the Schluter AllSet and one of the reasons for this as you can tell by looking at the ANSI standard it satisfies. So, in this case AllSet will handle ANSI standard A 118.15T, Large Format Tiles, due to the Non-Sag properties. NOTICE the “T” at the end, VERY IMPORTANT distinction! A118.15 by itself with no “T” means that it is an “improved thinset mortar”, so this makes it better than all the other normal A118.4 Modified Thinset mortars that are only rated ANSI A118.4 (Modified Thinset). Now in my opinion the MAPEI LFT is a great thinset mortar I have used it many times. But very puzzling their bag claims to be a LFT yet that is not backed up by the ANSI spec on the side of the bag which only says A118.4 which just means modified thinset mortar, with no real specification toward large format tiles, it is missing a “T” at the end of the ANSI A118.4. So, you can see the confusion there, MAPEI bag marketing name says one thing, but the spec says another. Both bags from either company are good but I think that because the Schluter AllSet supports the A 118.15T, a higher quality “improved modified thinset” that extra “T” at the end of the spec is what specifically tells us that this is engineered specifically for large format tiles. And it is only $3 more than the MAPEI product, so therefore I've just been using Schluter AllSet for the last three years for all my needs even with light tiles because I know that they will not sag as much. Remember also that the Schluter AllSet mortar satisfies these: A118.4, A118.4T, A118.11, A118.15, and A118.15T, but MAPEI Ultraflex LFT only satisfies A118.4, so AllSet is like a smart bomb covering all scenarios.
Sorry don't know the answer I have not used wedi, so you will have to check with them, and depending if you use the board or add membrane, that could also change which type of thin set you need. Best to see if they have any videos, or guide on their web site like Schluter does.
I installed 1/2" cement board around tub, then after some research purchased the Kerdi Membrane to go over the cement board. Is this recommended or completely wrong? I can not find any information on this and want to avoid any failures, unmodified thinset is what I was planning on purchasing.
Yes, that is fine, I attached Kerdi to Haribacker board, but you can also attach it to cement board, using the unmodified thinset. Of cours enowadays I prefer th eKerdi boards, which are the wall board,s but very light and you don't have to mess with applying the kerdi membrane, as it's already intigrated into the Kerdi Board.
@@jeffostroff I've done Kerdi over cement board - perfectly fine. I did this to avoid the costs of using the Kerdi boards...after doing a few showers I've discovered that using the Kerdi boards (orange foam) is actually basically the SAME price when all is said and done...plus working with the foam is MUCH easier and faster and WAY WAY less mess (from the concrete boards)...so don't cheap out - use the Kerdi boards as they don't save you $ in material cost and actually might make the job faster - certainly less mess b/c you don't have to deal with all the crumbling and dust of the concrete boards. Good info.
What thinset would be used on hardie backer covered in a waterproof membrane such as redgaurd? Would the membrane used with a modified thinset cause issues like with the kerdi?
The manufacturer of the RedGaurd specifies Modified Thin Set, but always check the bag to be sure. You can't go wrong using Schluter's All Set mortar, it can be used in areas requiring either modified or non-modified thinsets.
i want to install 12x 24 porcelain tile on shower area around the tub wall and i got some Schluter all set thin set and i installed some hardbacker board would i be able to use that without using any other Schluter product or any other thin set u recommend thx
Yes, but if you are not using any Schluter water resistant membrane over the hardibacker board, then by code you must use some sort of waterproof coating like AquaDefense, and tape the corners and apply 2 coats of aqua defense
I use alino système. The membrane seems exactly the same as shlutter. If you check their video Installation they tell you to use modify thin set for membrane and tiles. So im confuse. Im gonna try to call them see what they have to say about that
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Great explanation of different thinsets, anyone that actually watches the whole video will be well informed.....however, I take exception to your statement @3:45 when you say a failure of a tile job was caused by using the wrong thinset, there were prob mitigating circumstances but I would love to SEE evidence a tile fell off simply because a modified was used where an un-modified was called for...or vice versa...
Thanks! In relation to the schluter kurdi membrane, where you are supposed to have a modified thin set, if you use a modified then set it may never cure properly. By the way I enjoy your channel and am already a subscriber for many months now. I love the walk throughs that you do of the bad tile jobs From other contractors.
Good explanation of ansi Jeff 👍🏼 more people need to understand ansi.Best example I’ve seen is mix 1 cup non modified thin set and 1 cup modified thin set put both separately in a ziplock bag sealed tight leave overnight and guess which one is rock solid? That’s when you’ll understand why schluter specifically calls for unmodified thin set.
@@daveclark2458 That is a great test idea, thanks!
You want evidences? I will give you my case...we were forced to strip EVERYTHING back to scratches because of that after massive failure after 3/5 years time from job. 6 years later everything is spot on and no concerns whatsoever.
@@dkaloupis75 how do we know ur bit lying?
Please don't be discouraged by the negative comments. I needed your style of teaching. I needed the time you took to teach it. All the 5 minute talks and all the charts are useless if not comprehended by the student. I have been looking for a modified/unmodified explanation that I could understand and their use for a long time. Great job.
Thanks for the kind words!
I agree! People can be so darn rude! They can just NOT watch the video if they don't like the video content or click with the presentation style, but to actually take the time to make a negative and rude comment shows what an idiot that person is. It's very generous that someone took their time and made an instructional video for others to learn from! We should be gracious!
Thanks for the in depth explanation of all the thin sets and their standards. This was a great help. I appreciate anyone who takes what they do seriously, gives quality information and not just looking to make a quick video.
Thanks Paul! It's funny how other visitors to this video below commented, complained that this was too long and boring, LOL! I had intended this to be a master class, covering the engineering science behind why we do what we do when we tile.
I have never heard anyone tell all the differences in the thinset mortar like you have and make it understood like you have. I am so happy to heard all that you have said about the thinset and how and which one to use, you need to be a teacher on new guys just learning the trade, for us women to not be worried about them not knowing which ones to use when we have to hire this done for us older single women who can't do tiling.
Awesome Mary, I'm glad to hear you're tackling this. Now you can school the other guys!
Extremely helpful explanations. If you are trying to get answers watch all the way through. Came away with more than I thought I would.
Thanks for watching Colin
Beautifully explained!
I research my projects inside and out as well. I take my time so it is done properly. You brought another level to my process: the ANSI standards. I used to ask a sales person, sometimes that works out but sometimes it doesn't and one ends up with the wrong product.
Thank you, this by far is the best of the best explained and pointed to the right direction.
Glad it was helpful!
This was so far best video I have ever seen thanks for taking your time and putting this amazing video together
Thanks Reza, thanks for watching too
Finally, a good video on explaining the difference between UNMODIFIED (uncoupling) and MODIFIED (coupling) THIN SETS. AWESOME JOB.. only 1 issue, the part where you show the bathroom tiles, that SAGGED.. (you said adding a second bead of caulk around the tub... I AWESOME YOU ALSO WOULD OF MENTIONED, YOU SHOULD REMOVE ALL THE TILES, OLD THIN SET ECT, AND USE THE CORRECT THINSET (BASICALLY STARTING ALL OVER, THUS DOING IT RIGHT) THANKS FOR THE VIDEO.
Thank you glad to hear you liked the video
*ROBERT HARTE* ---------------- > What exactly do you mean when you refer to them as "uncoupling" or "coupling" ?
loved the video, never understood differences between modified an un modified thin set, you are a tremendous instructor, thanks much!
Glad you liked it Edward
Man... This is one of those videos that is actually worthy of watching all together... For the DIY (me) or Professional. Thank you for your time and effort. I would gladly donate you. I'll suscribe and like for now. Thank you!!!
Right in the middle of doing a tile shower and your video helped me very much-needed thank you! I always research the particular trade that I'm learning and your explanation has just increased my knowledge and understanding. Good Job 👍
Awesome glad to help out
This great video, I didn’t know all that. Saved me from making a mistake to use a wrong thinset for shludar. Thank you
Glad to help Igor and thank you for watching
Thanks for your excellent discussion on different mortars. This video is a must for anyone attempting their own tiling project, like myself.
Wow bro! You did an outstanding job on explaining everything! I’m a DIY guy for my own home remodeling. I’ve got a collection of YT videos then finally going and looking up the ANSI recommendations and everything was as clear as mud! Then, I come across your video. Everything clicks now! Haha, Thanks for your experience and knowledge!
Great thorough explanation. If you care about what your doing, its better to know more rather than less.
You took the words right out of my mouth! Thanks for watching!
Thank you. One of the best I've seen on DIY projects, how to data, with option to purchase the books on this.
hi Jeff, great video...1 thing im very impressed with..you answer almost all comments and questiions. I follow alot of diy channels and your the best..thanks
Wow, thanks! TC!
Wow! Excellent video. Thanks for taking the time to explain the “why’s” and what could happen if you do X vs Y. I thought I was ready to go until you explained the pictures on the back of the bag regarding application areas. Thankyou!
that's why you almost have to be an engineer to tile!
Long video but worth watching, even you are not setting tile yourself. Will help ensure that you select the right products or to ensure that your tile guy is using the right products.
Yes this was more of a masterclass
Best tile adhesive vid I've found. And boy have a looked! Unfortunately, here in the UK we can't get some of those adhesives. Ah well. Nice vid mate.
Thanks Ian!
I had the same question: this clip is gold - thank you for being so thorough.
Glad to help Andrei!
@@jeffostroff Tell me something else if you know. For kitchen tiles I used a premixed Mapei Ultramastic ECO (ANSI A136.1). This one seems to be stickier than thinset - I remember from when I was a kid that folks used to add wood glue in thinset to make "tile mortar" (grew up in Eastern Europe). Do you have any idea if it's still the case with A136.1 and how does this compare with A118.15T? I have to lay some 12x24 tiles and I don't wanna make a mistake.
Also, is the membrane a must? I'm laying it over concrete in some storage underneath the stairs: we want to make a nice storage are that's easy to clean, so we're finishing it with ceramic tiles, paining the wood to seal it and whatnot. I have about 28 sq ft to cover.
@@jeffostroff PS: I actually found the explanation here: www.archtoolbox.com/materials-systems/finishes/tile-mortar-types.html . My use of A136.1 was ill informed (trust the store clerk, never again) - not good for kitchens and humidity. I had this large I had to redo under the stove (moved it along with the furniture pattern) and I was wondering why it didn't cure after 24h - I needed some A118 type mortar.
@@cubul32 I don't like Mastic of any kind. They are glues (technically called organic adhesives in the A1361 spec.), but they are NOT mortars, they are not cement, they are a different animal. Mapei Ultramastic ECO is a Type 1 A136.1 Adhesive, and guess what, you tell me you have 12" x 24" tiles, you can't use this product, it only allows up to 6" x 6" tiles on floors, and 10" x 10" tile son floors. MAPEI may be better than other brands of Mastic I don't know, but the few I tried in the fast were dismal failures, they don't dry hard like mortar, and they don't seem to want to cure either. I can't even imagine anyone using it for floor either. They are not mortars. So there is still movement under them. I used a mastic from in a small container from Home Depot 3 years ago on a linen closet thinking it won't be that bad, no one will walk on it, but 3 days later the tiles can still be wiggled! I swore that's the last time I will try using mastic. All the best tile experts you'll see warn you NEVER use mastic, I have no clue why they even make it. For me, nothing beats tried an true mortar with a good latex modifier. The A115.1 spec refers to an "improved" latex modified thinset mortar when compared to A118.4 or A118.11 modified thinsets. It's simply the best of the best of modified mortars, which Schluter Allset is an A115.1 and LFT. If you plan to use MAPEI, go with their Ultraflex LFT modified tile mortar for large format tile, which you have. Great product, I used it sometimes myself, it resists sag (A115.1TE) on their spec: www.mapei.com/public/US/products/BR_A118.15-EN.pdf
@@jeffostroff I got LFT indeed, same mentality here - the package got a makeover here in Quebec - they call it Large Tile Mortar now (www.rona.ca/en/ultraflex-lft-tile-mortar-21085482).
As far as I was reading, the Mastic needs space to evaporate, kinda like Schulter and modified thinset. Mine was 1ft sq or so; but it's mostly under the furniture and a bit under the stove (so it's there for the look in the 1/8 crack). So: I'll be fine. Lesson learned; thanks to you, thank you :) . The more I DYI the more I get serious and start researching and preparing.
edit: my board dried in 2-3 days fyi - I could tell it was moving after 24h, really got me worried.
Now trying to figure out grout sizes. I could only find a leveling system for 1/16 (Rubi - looks like T lock and whatnot). And I have 1/8 stars from before. I wanted a 1/8 leveling system but Canadian stores are retarded like that sometimes especially in Quebec state (damn French entrepreneurial mentality sometimes but you gotta love them otherwise).
How did you choose grout width? So far I understand 1/16 can lead to noticeable lipage but looks good if done well, 1/8 is a great compromise of the two: easy to set but wide grouts are not as "purteeeh".
I actually really appreciated this in-depth discussion and commentary. Thank you.
Glad you liked it, thanks for visiting our video.
Hi Jeff, I hope your doing well. I wanted to say thank you soooo much for the time you put in to help us through this detailed video. It was very helpful really appreciate it. Thanks
You are so welcome
Thank you for this! I got the Kerdi board - and I researched that you'd have to use the all-set purpose Schluter modified, or an unmodified thin-set. The big box store I was at had a ton of products, and I could not tell which one to get, and for some reason.. they didn't have the Schluter brand there either. I watched your entire video in the store, and ended up walking out and going to a different store, they didn't have un-modified! Really glad this was out there.
Glad it was helpful!
a kicking butt video about thinset, VERY clear Thank you so much I really didn't get it until I watched your video.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Jeff this was a really great explanation regarding thin-set mortar, and how to read and understand the labels-even if someone is NOT a professional contractor! Thank you!!! I was very interested in your video as well since I was trying to understand the differences between Mapei products (adhesives and grouts) for my mosaic projects. Since I live in Italy and am having a hard time understanding which Italian products (thin set, Mastic, Mirror Silicone adhesives, etc.) I can buy and use for my mosaic projects that are equivalent to ours in the U.S.A. You can't imagine how difficult it is to translate everything and try to find the same- just to do a project! They do not have a market for 'projects', nor are they big on DIY home improvements, so their 'home improvement stores' are extremely limited in what they carry and product diversity! So, unless you're a professional, know what you're doing, and have access to needed products, it can be a huge hardship.
I recently found Mapei products (which is a famous Italian company), but I'm having a hard time understanding the differences between all their products (their package explanation is very vague and repetitive), and which one is best for me to use for my mosaic projects. I loved your explanations on the 3 Mapei products!! Could you please tell me, if you know, the differences between Mapei UltraMastic III or 5, and Mapei Adesilex P22, and for what exactly they are best used for? Those were the products some Italian artists were using here for their mosaic projects; they were using ceramic tiles, stained glass tiles, and smalti on wood, cement, and other base substrates. I would like to better understand in which situation and for what material these Mapei products could be (properly) used. Are any of the Mapei products the equivalent to our U.S.A. thin-set mortar?
Also, on the Mapei Keracolor S, sanded grout, you explained that it was modified with polymer. Could you please explain what the added polymer is good for, and in what situation I would want that in my grout? Does Mapei have other grout products that are not sanded or are sanded but without the added polymer- and in what situation are those better to use?
Thank you for all your professional advice! I look forward to watching more of your videos. I think you could write a well-advised and easily understood book on creating mosaics; small tile projects that would be a best seller!
i don't know anything about Mapei UltraMastic III or 5, and Mapei Adesilex P22, but if you email MAPEI, they do answer you. I steer clear of mastics, only thinset mortar should ever be used for tiles ever. Mastics often don't cure, and fall apart in humidity. Grout modifiers are for thigs like crack prevention, and sealing the grout to minimize water absorption. They probably have unsanded and unmodified grouts, but yo will have to seal the grout afterwards, and every 5 years.
When going over plywood i usually use a bonding agent first. Then thin set the ditra or kerdi down. Super easy and ensures a good adhesion.
Very, very helpful. Uninformed Lowes clerk was pointing me to the wrong stuff so I decided to go home and do further research. Doing a kerdi board shower and can't find unmodified except for the really cheap ($7) junk you mentioned. It's bizarre the big box stores sell kerdi board and fabric but not Schluter All Set or even Kerdi Fix. It doesn't help the bags use marketing language like "fortified" too.
Yes sometimes it is a real challenge to find the AllSet and there's a place in our area that I have to drive all the way across town to go get it
I was so bored but I ended up listening to the whole thing was actually very helpful
Yes, this is one of our longer Masterclass videos. You can see how much engineering there really is involved and how much there is to keep track of. A lot of people want to rush through it, but then they end up with failures.
@@jeffostroff yea, no lie I'm probably going to have to re watch it
Thank you! You have demystified the mortar dilemma.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! You answered my question before the Home Depot guy could figure out what the heck I was asking!! Love the viseo
Glad to help
Schlueter is by far the best product on the market! Unmodified thinset only in a shower! Good video!
Totally agree! thanks for watching Michael!
Thanks for expelling why Schluter requires unmodified Thin Set!
Glad it was helpful!
So i figured out that I need unmodified thinset for Kerdi board, but didnt know 12x24 was largeformat and needed Kerabknd T and not just Kerabond. Was trying to save money and now will end up getting schluter All set anyways, and have to sell the Kerabond.
Thanks for the video, wish I saw it sooner!
ive been using Schluter exclusively for the last 6 months. Thin set, Detra, Kerdi
The best product on the market!
Very very good commentary on thinset. Thanks for the info.
Brian Bry Thanks I am glad you found it useful!
@10:30 you mention the thinset taking 28 days to dry because it trapped between two impervious layers. What about if you waterproof the substrate you’re adhering to with say Hydraban? Wouldn’t it have the same effect?
Excellent explanation...you saved my project.
Glad to help Gregg!
Great, enlightening video.👍🏻I have a very small bath niche project, where I want to install porcelain tile. Can I get away with using unmodified thin set (bought a huge bag for Kerdi band)considering it’s only 14” by 12” space. Even tho it’s in the shower, it is relatively far away from constant water spray/exposure and no grout to be used, just caulk around edges. It’ll be adhered to wood, but i waterproof painted the wood first.
Thx!
Yes you can for that small area far away from the water if you already have the mortar, should not be an issue, but I would not do any walls of the wet part of the shower with it. I always buy The Schluter All-Set anyway, so I am covered no matter what substrate I am on.
@@jeffostroff Should I wait a few days between placing pieces to let the mortar dry or is that not necessary?
@@rudysmachado5747 I would just place all the tiles in place and wait a few days before you grout.. If you can wait even a week or so that would be even better because it would give the mortar more time to cure.
You did very well & helped a lot of people, we Thank You highly much.
John, Awesome I'm so glad I was able to help everyone.
Can a polymer modified thinset be used with tile under a woodstove, or would heat degrade the polymer? Likewise, would a Schluter Kerdi-board be a problem? Seems that a cement-based backer board would handle the heat better.
Hopefully there's not too much heat coming down but that I'll below it I think would be a insulator to the mortar. You would have to check on the package and see if there was any temperature requirements. I personally don't think there would be a problem with it
Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure out what mortar to use for 12x24 porcelain tile over Ditra. Wish I would have found you sooner!!🖖
Glad I could help!
Awesome job on the explanation, I saved the video to my constuction tutorial/ watch later list, for future reference. I learned a lot this morning, thank you! Subbed.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you very much for sharing the very valuable technique.
You're very welcome!
Thanks for a great video. Would modified thinset mortar technicality not be good for tiling any tile over a waterproof wall such as Kerdi, Red guard, etc since the mortar would be trapped between 2 impervious surfaces?
Phil, it's confusing about whhich manufacturer wants what. Kerdi wants you to use unmodified thinset to tile onto their products. But redgaurd says use modified thinset. I don't know why, I'm simply not a chemical engineer, but it boggles the mind. I just go with what they say. My favorite one to use is Schluter's Allset because it can be used on anything, and as I showed, it supports all the specs of a modified and unmodified thinset.
I loooved your soliloquy. Well done! Watched every minute.
Loved my soliloquy! To Modify, or not to modify thinset...that is the question!
Thank you for this very well explained instruction.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for such a detail overview of the motar / thinset. It has help me understand the chemistry behind the product.
Definitely same me a-lot of time reading super small print at the store and confusion…
Thank you.
Great to hear!
Awesome video, subscribed! Thank you for this effort, very well done.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it Mickey, welcome aboard!
Great video. Glad I watched this and read your answers to some comments below. I am putting redguard over durock. I will be taking my primix bucket of mortor back to Menards, and getting some high quality bags of modified thinset. Thanks again.
What mortar would you recommend for wedi wall board. Installing glass and ceramic tile. Thanks
For glass they definitely recommend a polymer modified thin set. So far the last few years I've exclusively been using schluter allset Which finally they started to carry at floren décor so now I can just drive up the street to our local Florida décor store and buy the thin set mortar. And whatever you do make sure you only get white. But you also need to double check with wetty about what they prefer on their boards. I suspect they require a latex modified thin set like thinks that like the all set is but you always got a double check on every every item as to what is required.
great video! I have been wanting a video that breaks it down this well!
Fantastic information. Thanks for clearing this up and introducing me to the Schluter All Set.
Will modified on Kerdi eventually cure with enough time exposed, before putting tile on. I have condensation appearing on the back of tile as I dry fit 1st row on tub flange?
The one benefit of unmodified thinset is that it is a hydration curing mortar, whereas modified thinset is an evaporation type of curing, so needs things to dry out over 30 days or so. But unmodified thinset thrive and cures better, and it's crystals form better in the presence of moisture. As you know, mortars cure with time each day, so when you get it all tiled, you can let it all rest a day or 2 also no harm in that.
Great advice. I have a little problem. I laid tile on a patio now my wife doesn’t care for way it looks. Can I lay tile over tile? Thank you
People tile over tile all the time you may want to roughen it up first with a grinder but it might not really be necessary. The only issue is how is it going to look along the edges? Maybe you can cover up the edges with tile as well cut slivers of tile to cover that up
What if your using cement board that you paint redguard on the surface to waterproof? Do you use modified or unmodified?
Irving, You can use a polymer modified thinset with Redgard and also with blue MAPEI Aqua Defense
How long will the dry time be for polymer modified thinset on redgard for 2x2x12 and 12x24?
@@victorquiroz3048 I doubt very much that there is any difference and drying time between the 2 tile sizes unless the bag has instructions that specifies otherwise I usually just let it dry overnight. Keep in mind that thin set continues to cure and gain in strength over the next month.
@@victorquiroz3048 redguard requires that you use modified thinset for the tile. Modified thinset is fortified with latex which is organic and is a food source for mold growth. In a shower, you should only use unmodified thinset.
Awesome video! I DO appreciate the in-depth information... I'm slowly working through a bathroom remodel myself - and I was thinking of using 12"x24" marble tile on the walls of my shower. From even this thorough explanation, I'm still a bit unsure of what to use - other than the Schluter Allset product, is there something else commercially available to fit this application? Large format tile, impervious backplane, natural stone... What do you think??
Steve I have been exclusively using the Schluter All set the last 4 years, it has been so great to work with.
@@jeffostroff great to hear! I’ll give that a shot… after watching some more RUclips video’s I’m thinking. Thanks!
The best tile contractor/instructor/teacher bro 😎
Thanks walldemar.
Can u help me get the ANSI and the TCNA
Can u help me get or where to purchase the TCNA and the ANSI books for 2023 updated I already passed the law and business exams I failed by 10 questions on the tile trade portion
I'm using Hydro Ban and porcelain LFT. Since a painted-on membrane is impervious just like Kerdi board, I'm assuming modified thinset would take forever to cure. On the other hand, adhesion would be greater. I'm leaning toward unmodified so I can grout without waiting a month, but I also hear that modified is better most of the time. Any ideas on settling this debate?
You do use modified thinset to put ditra over plywood but you apply the tile to the ditra with a non modified thinset
Hello Jeff, my undsrstanding based on your video is that I have to use unmodified thinset on 1/2 inch self leveling concrete that was poured on plywood subfloor? Am I correct on this? I cannot use polymer modifed thinset? This is for entire bathroom porcelain floor installation.
You would only need non-modified if you were using a Schluter Ditra or Kerdi product underneath the tile. But with just concrete over already poured leveler, you would use modified thinset if tile is going directly on the thinset mortar.
So use unmodified when tiling onto sealed concrete? Thanks
Excellent video. I'm tiling LFT onto painted sheetrock wall. I planned on using modified thinset. Should I score the walls (breaking through the paint) so the thinset moisture has somewhere to go?
This is not a good idea. First of all are you doing this in a bathroom? If this is in any room that could have moisture like a bathroom, you should not be applying LHT over painted drywall, but rather new unpainted drywall. I'm not a fan of tiling onto drywall, unless it's small like a back splash in a kitchen. If tiles were small, I'd say maybe you could tile onto the painted drywall with a primer coating first you might get away with it, but the soundest method would be to remove the painted drywall and replace it with Densshield, or cementitious boards like Wonderboard or Hardibacker board. If it's not directly in the shower surround area, you don't need to waterproof the cementitious board first.
@@jeffostroff Wow, thank you for the quick answer. It's not a bathroom. This is a tall fireplace (about 12' tall by 6" wide). painted drywall (very solidly adhered to the cinder block, cement, framing etc underneath). The tile are 12x24 porcelain. So. it's a very dry area, very smooth and flat.
So glad I found your channel, very good video, thanks for sharing .
Thanks for watching Abigail
Question I’m tiling over drywall and I’m using ECO Grip Primer on the wall, can I use a modified thin set?
What to use for an outside kitchen island? Thin brick application over cement board. I’m trying some masonry mix by quickrete but it just seems too sandy
Look on the bags of tile mortar. On the back they have little diagrams that tell you if you can use it outside, on the floor, or on the wall.
jeffostroff picked up some large tile and stone from mapei. Stuff works great!
Thank Jeff this was an awesome video. I want to tile my backsplash in the kitchen. Its brand new painted wall consisting drywall with a new application of knockdown. The tile size is 3" x 9" and I am going after the standard subway pattern. My question is can I use glue/mastic (If yes what product would you suggest) or if glue is a hard no than what thin-set would you recommend for this application?
NO Never use Mastec EVER! I would use a Latex modified Thinset. Mastec never seems to cure and is more rubbery and tiles will fall off
I see you are NOT wearing knee pads.I am now sixty,knees are shot,knee pads,knee board and a chunk of styrofoam nearby at all times...VERY GOOD INFORMATIVE VIDEO my friend,a must know.
Can this be use to adhere KBRS ShowerSlope & Curb to the sub-floor or what can you recommend?
Yes, I use the AllSet mortar almost exclusively now, and t can be used on most anything
Hi, great video. I am planning to use the DUROCK cement board cement backer board for my shower walls and I am going to roll it with AquaDefense membrane. Which mortar should I use?
Thanks
Kendy, the instructions for MAPEI AquaDefense state that: "For tile and stone installations, use MAPEI polymer-modified or epoxy
mortars.
" They also state if your using large heavy tiles or large format tiles, you have to let the AquaDefense cure overnight before tiling.
This is great! I learned a ton here! I was wondering I there is a good thin set I could use on a concrete floor that has a bit of linoleum adhesive left over?
Is there a lot of adhesive or is it all over the floor? I'd check with the manufacturer about maybe rolling a primer on first, or they may tell you their thin set is good enough to use as is. Most pro flooring companies will prefer to grind the floor, takes about an hour with an angle grinder and a large 6" to 9" bowl grinding wheel.
@@jeffostroff thanks so much for getting back to me! I’ve managed to scrape most of it up with a lot of elbow grease and warm water. There are some areas that show it on the floor but nothing is taking it up. Not water not heat not even adhesive remover. That’s great advise about contacting the manufacturer. I spoke to the seller and he said I would be good to go. The brand is Versa Bond it’s modified and I’m laying down ceramic tile. They are about 17 inch long by 4 inch wide.
Can you use thinset as grout.
I have thinset coming through my pebble tile,. It's dried and solid as a rock.. oops.
If I seal it will it be ok?
I have pvc liner water proofing and a mortar bed with aqua defense below tile.
The color thinset is similar to grout.
It's a mapei thinset
Usually the grouts have sealers in them they help prevent staining and absorption, which thinset does nothave. Why not chisel the thinset out of there and grout it?
Thanks for the video. Is there a similar book for stone slab installs e.g. quartz shower wall?
you can check TCNA.org for more
Hello .. I live in Germany where ANSI is not used. Is there an equivalent in the DIN - EN Standard for this ANSI 118.1 ?
Can I use unmodified, thin, set to do my taping and corners over hardy backer?
What type of thinset on Cement Board joints? Perma Base.......Durock?
They usually specify modified thinset
@@jeffostroff Thank You!!
Just finished a shower wall tile project with Kurdi. I didn't research the modified vs non-modified thinset application instructions. The walls are porcelain tiled with modified thinset but not grouted . Will the thinset cure if I wait a month before grouting??? What do I do???
Can i use mapei polymer enriched thinset over mapei mapelastic aqua defense for a roman bath with ceramic tile?
Yes they usually mention to use latex modified thinset over aqua defense
i have my tub shower area ready to tile . walls are 1/2 durock sealed joints and coated with redguard. what would be the correct thinset for my 4x16 white ceramic tiles ? thanks in advance for your reply
Jeff, when do you use the modified stuff?
I’m looking at installing ditra through the whole house, including in living areas. Can we use modified adhesive on ditra if it’s NOT in the bathroom?
If I am installing porcelain tile on a concrete slab floor, I will use modified thin set. But the last 2 years I've been exclusively using the Schluter Allset Because it meets and exceeds all ratings for modified and unmodified thin sets
Thanks @@jeffostroff . What do you think of Mapeguard UM? In the UK, I can get the Mapei products (adhesives and membranes etc) but shulter is not widely available and very expensive)
I’ve also read that Mapei UM35 (competitor to Shulter Ditra) can be laid with modified thinset.
Great video but let pose another question to you. If I roller redgard or aquaban or ardex onto my hardibacker board and make it imperious to water then install porcelain or ceramic tile using modified thinset which is recommended haven't i just done the same thing that Shuluter says not to because of drying issues?? If I read it right modified thinset is the way to go because of its bonding strength however i just now sandwiched it in between two imperious surfaces reducing its drying ability
Schluter's product is different than these waterproofing membranes, which are formulated to work with latex modified mortars. Schluter prefers non-modified thin sets, or the use of their own modified thinnest called Allset, which is what I use
Thanks Jeff question for you , I understand about the need to use unmodified mortar for Kerdi board because of the evaporation needed for the mortar to cure properly due to the waterproof of the kerdi , so my question is if I’m using hardie backer and roll on two coats of Redgard would I still need to use an unmodified mortar ? Because now the hardie backer is waterproof due to the paint on membrane, thanks .
Redgaurd will tell you what you need, which I believe is modified thin set, but check their instructions to be sure
Great video, I want to put ecoprime and ditra heat over 2x2 inch existing tiles. They are well bonded for 35 years, and almost impossible to remove. what would you use for morter? Modified, or unmodified ?
I would research DITRA and see what Schluter tells you to do in this case. they may tell you top roughen up the surfaces of the tiles first
So which thinset can I use on kerdi board? I hear I can use mapei kerabond plus, are there any others?
With Kurdi board I would be very careful to only use what Schluter recommends. I have been using exclusively the last four years Schluter AllSet modified thinset because Schluter has told us they made it, they are in control of the process and they know that even though it is a modified thinset it will work on their products and it will be perfect so that is what I have been using.
Thank you very much for this video!
Glad it was helpful Silvester!
I know this is an older video, but almost everyone is using modified thinsets (including Schluter all-set). All of them (including Schluter) have curing agents that allow curing without the presence of air.
its any tile with an edge greater than or equal to 15" for LFT
You’re the greatest! Can you tell me what the name the book is please? Thanks for this video.
Great video and explanation! Much appreciated!
Awesome, thanks for watching Obi!
Regarding large format porcelain tile for shower walls: if you’re using Durock with red guard is the schlutter all set still a better choice or ultraflex lft?
Over the last couple of years, I have grown to really appreciate the quality of the Schluter AllSet and one of the reasons for this as you can tell by looking at the ANSI standard it satisfies. So, in this case AllSet will handle ANSI standard A 118.15T, Large Format Tiles, due to the Non-Sag properties. NOTICE the “T” at the end, VERY IMPORTANT distinction! A118.15 by itself with no “T” means that it is an “improved thinset mortar”, so this makes it better than all the other normal A118.4 Modified Thinset mortars that are only rated ANSI A118.4 (Modified Thinset). Now in my opinion the MAPEI LFT is a great thinset mortar I have used it many times. But very puzzling their bag claims to be a LFT yet that is not backed up by the ANSI spec on the side of the bag which only says A118.4 which just means modified thinset mortar, with no real specification toward large format tiles, it is missing a “T” at the end of the ANSI A118.4. So, you can see the confusion there, MAPEI bag marketing name says one thing, but the spec says another. Both bags from either company are good but I think that because the Schluter AllSet supports the A 118.15T, a higher quality “improved modified thinset” that extra “T” at the end of the spec is what specifically tells us that this is engineered specifically for large format tiles. And it is only $3 more than the MAPEI product, so therefore I've just been using Schluter AllSet for the last three years for all my needs even with light tiles because I know that they will not sag as much. Remember also that the Schluter AllSet mortar satisfies these: A118.4, A118.4T, A118.11, A118.15, and A118.15T, but MAPEI Ultraflex LFT only satisfies A118.4, so AllSet is like a smart bomb covering all scenarios.
You helped me a lot to understand about tile, thank you so much.
You are welcome!
@@jeffostroff does this applies to wall tiles and floor tile? Also which one is better gray or white MAPEI?
I have to know why and now I know. thank you.
Glad to help out Dominic and thanks for watching our video
Is thinset the same as Portland white cement. I'm looking if thinset can be mixed with sand to make pool plaster
Why not just buy the pool plaster?
What thin set should be used over Wedi board with a 4x16 ceramic tile?
Sorry don't know the answer I have not used wedi, so you will have to check with them, and depending if you use the board or add membrane, that could also change which type of thin set you need. Best to see if they have any videos, or guide on their web site like Schluter does.
Absolutely great video, very informational
Glad it was helpful!
I installed 1/2" cement board around tub, then after some research purchased the Kerdi Membrane to go over the cement board. Is this recommended or completely wrong? I can not find any information on this and want to avoid any failures, unmodified thinset is what I was planning on purchasing.
Yes, that is fine, I attached Kerdi to Haribacker board, but you can also attach it to cement board, using the unmodified thinset. Of cours enowadays I prefer th eKerdi boards, which are the wall board,s but very light and you don't have to mess with applying the kerdi membrane, as it's already intigrated into the Kerdi Board.
@@jeffostroff I've done Kerdi over cement board - perfectly fine. I did this to avoid the costs of using the Kerdi boards...after doing a few showers I've discovered that using the Kerdi boards (orange foam) is actually basically the SAME price when all is said and done...plus working with the foam is MUCH easier and faster and WAY WAY less mess (from the concrete boards)...so don't cheap out - use the Kerdi boards as they don't save you $ in material cost and actually might make the job faster - certainly less mess b/c you don't have to deal with all the crumbling and dust of the concrete boards. Good info.
What thinset would be used on hardie backer covered in a waterproof membrane such as redgaurd? Would the membrane used with a modified thinset cause issues like with the kerdi?
The manufacturer of the RedGaurd specifies Modified Thin Set, but always check the bag to be sure. You can't go wrong using Schluter's All Set mortar, it can be used in areas requiring either modified or non-modified thinsets.
Thanks Jeff
i want to install 12x 24 porcelain tile on shower area around the tub wall and i got some Schluter all set thin set and i installed some hardbacker board would i be able to use that without using any other Schluter product or any other thin set u recommend thx
Yes, but if you are not using any Schluter water resistant membrane over the hardibacker board, then by code you must use some sort of waterproof coating like AquaDefense, and tape the corners and apply 2 coats of aqua defense
What do you use on red guard over cement board
They usually tell you to use a modified thinset over red guard
I use alino système. The membrane seems exactly the same as shlutter. If you check their video Installation they tell you to use modify thin set for membrane and tiles. So im confuse. Im gonna try to call them see what they have to say about that
It's all about the makeup of their membrane and what each company requires.