5:07 "quarter by 3/8". 8:07 "quarter by 3/8”? Great video though; both men were superlative in explaining with extra tips. Liked and subscribed; will be thinking about buying your company's tools/products above others because of this video.
This video is incorrect. Trowel lines are supposed to go PARALLEL TO THE SHORT EDGE of the tile so air has to travel the least distance to escape to minimizes air pockets.
You are supposed to pull to the shortest side of the tile so the air has less room to escape.. that being said as long as you dont do a swirl and you work it in the thinset and back butter shits stronger than your grandparents relationship
As a tile setter of 15 years, I agree its best practice to back butter tiles but at the same time I do not feel back buttering in every given situation worth the extra effort. I believe half of it has to do with proper trowel size and thinset (non sag preferred) and installation technique. If you look at the back buttered tile at the end of the video, it does not have 80 percent contact and coverage. The whole tile has thinset on it of course, but the contact that is made between the mortar and bb'd tile are the squiggly lines... all the other spots are just the back butter that made no contact with the mortar spread on the floor.
@@hapetaa No I just have enouch experience to know the difference between "manufacturer recommendations" (you know, the guys that want you to spend more money for nothing) and actual requirements. This depends on the flatness of your substrate, tile size, trowel size, traffic conditions and other factors. Back buttering is a great standard of practice but is NOT always required.
If you create the high/low mortar lines across the short dimension of the tile instead of the long dimension there is less chance of trapping air in the grooves. Run the mortar lines across the width of the tile not the length.
Awesome tips y’all! We’d have to say getting it right takes a little trowel & error to hone these skills! However, this demonstration will help us set the technique fo sho! We’re doing a school bus to tiny home on wheels conversion right now. We just finished using the Schluter Kerdi Board V for our curved shower wall and the Schluter Kerdi board for the flat walls and it came out great!! We’re so happy that we found this video before we start setting our tile on the floor! Solid tips here y’all! - Brian +Erin
Schluter-Systems North America thanks! It’s coming along great! We just posted the video to our Kerdi Shower Kit installation on our channel if your curious to see how it came out!
I'm curious about one thing. I was under the impression that best practices in setting rectangular tile is to have the direction of the ridges be in the direction of the short side, not the long side. Reason being that it releases the air more easily and provides for superior coverage. Granted, when you pulled the ridges in the long direction and backbuttered, you did get coverage, but isn't it generally true that you want the ridges to follow the direction of the short side?
Hi Kenneth! It depends on the shape of the tile. For instance, the longer the tile, the more ridges you'll have if you trowel across the short side, so you have more ridges to collapse. If you do it the long way in that case, you only have a few to collapse and that may work better. Hope that helps!
@@schlutersystems1 that response, is literally mathematically incorrect. Regardless of that, it is still easier to get the air out, running the trowel lines, the shorter distance.
Ive worked side by side other tile setters and they always are able to throw tile down like frisbees. Often they wonder why it takes me almost twice as long and I explain its quality over quantity! They usually have problems with their tile popping up or whatever. Not me! Mine are ALWAYS back buttered and very carefully placed! Definitely pays off to take the extra time.
We had some funny nicknames in Carpentry that we'd give the low skilled: "Lightning Boy" (never strikes twice in the same place) or "Divot" (not because they like to golf), "Panel Banger" (sloppy work, rough, unrefined), "Blood Donor" (always injuring themselves)... I wonder are there any nicknames that Tile Setters have in their trade?
@@cptcosmoin my area we have a general term for all, scabs or hacks, both mean the same as all yours my brother, garbage kind always be garbage I guess
Great info.question I have ,had a new house built an tiled with 12”x24” tiles after moving in approximately 6 months ago I notice certain tiles do not have a solid sound to them when I tap with a screwdriver , your thoughts
We have hydronic in floor heating in our concrete basement. Would you recommend using a schluter product between the concrete and tile? Our concern is the restricted heat transfer through a membrane.
Hi Matt, would you be able to give our Customer Support team a call to discuss your project in a bit more detail, and they will be able to make a recommendation from there. 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Thanks!
Hmmm... not so sure what would be available in your region for learning opportunities! Perhaps check with a Schluter retailer in your area? You can find one here: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/store-finder
Another real-world thing that got me in trouble in the beginning that they didn't mention here, is not allowing for an uneven substrate. A thicker mortar bed gives just a little wiggle room when dealing with small discrepancies, especially on cement and with large tiles. So, don't even try to go for the least. To avoid the thinset squishing up through the grout lines, use a pointer trowel to clean the edges just a bit before setting the next tile.
Honestly we've all done that... but I finally learned my lesson (failed floor) that there's a real limit to what you can do in one step. Now I flatten the substrate first - before anything else, even de-coupling material goes down. Either self-leveling underlayment or for small jobs at the very least screed the low spots with modified thinset and let it cure for a day or two. Not telling anyone what to do but trust me there's nothing worse than a callback that's 100% because you were pushing your luck with a floor that wasn't flat. .
@@HBSuccess Yes, totally agree. Though that’s a different issue. Sounds like you tried to fix a bad floor with extra thick thinset? I agree, that’s a disaster waiting to happen. But this video is about choosing trowel size. My trowel size preference just allows for small discrepancies, or a layer of membrane, etc., not fixing un level floors.
I would have rather seen the first tile worked back and forth like the second tile was, to really give an apples to apples comparison. Obviously #2 would still be far better, but I'm just so disappointed every time I see a comparison of notch size, when its really a comparison of technique AND notch size...
regardless of the movement or the force there are airpockets on the first tile, wiggling it wont get rid of the airpockets. Youd have to slide the tile pretty far for the air to be released, and when your 30 tiles in, you wont have inches. only wiggle room
Do me a favor tell floors and decors in Saugus Massachusetts that they need to start selling unmodified things set to install the schluter band . They never heard of it. I told them and showed them your video but all they tell me is never heard of it
I’m a delivery driver for a tile /marble company & I told myself I will figure out how to install myself & little did I know it’s actually easier than I thought along with this vids I know I can set tile using all the tips but I thought your supposed to run mortar the width of the tile not the length?
Great! Glad they're helping. As long as you embed your tile into the thin-set by working the tile back and forth, perpendicular to the ridges, you can comb the thin-set in either direction.
Thanks for the excellent video. I’m looking forward to using DITRA for the first time. I have three bathrooms and a laundry room to tile. Floors and tub surrounds. I’ve read you should leave 1/4” for expansion at wall and tubs for DITRA and the tile. I plan to use Kerri-Band. What caulk or similar do I use for the 1/4” gap to waterproof?
Hi Jim, For complete information about perimeter movement handling, please see the "Movement Joints" section of the DITRA Installation Handbook. For DITRA to walls, we recommend the use of BEKOTEC-BRS/-BRSK edge strip or a sill seal type product (a compressible polyethylene gasket) and for tile to walls, a Schluter-DILEX movement joint for tile base or no base, or cut the compressible gasket at the top of the tile and cover with a wood base. When the tile meets the tub, over the DITRA, KERDI-BAND and KERDI-FIX (or suitable sealant) combination, you can use a DILEX movement joint between the tile and the tub or a suitable caulk. If you would like to discuss your particular project in more detail, please give our Product Support team a call. 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Hope this helps!
Thanks for the info guys.. it answered a few of my questions.. I’m about to attempt to install my kitchen backsplash with 0 (Zero) tiling experience... lol oooh lord..wish me luck!! :)
Hi Justin, that might not give you enough coverage. A 1/4" x 3/8" or 3/8" x 3/8" would be better. Always apply the thin-set, embed the tray, and then lift the tray back up to check for coverage. Go to the next trowel size up, if needed. Hope this helps, and please feel free to give our Product Support team a call to discuss your project in more detail or ask for any further specific advise for your application. Hope this helps! 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Thanks!
I have 12" x 24" natural marble tile, 1/2" thick, and plan on using 1/16" grout lines. The subfloor is 3/4" OSB over 16" joists and I don't want to double the subfloor. I have Ditra XL, and Schluter All-Set thinset. Looking for a recommendation regarding the tile pattern. Would prefer to have them meet at the corners, but some have suggested staggering them by 1/3.... Any thoughts are welcome!
Hi Hafy, yes, you can follow detail D-SP-TS in the DITRA-Installation Handbook. We don't have any specific written requirements for the gap between the planks, but please contact Customer Service or your local Schluter rep if you are concerned it may be an issue in your application and they can help you evaluate it. Here's a link to the Handbook: sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h9f/h5e/9250010234910/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf And here are the numbers for our Customer Service team if you'd like to discuss your project in more detail: 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Hope this helps!
Hi there conneljw, This video is covering all three! 😊 Depending on the tile and project: proper technique, back-buttering and trowel size can all bear equal importance.
@@schlutersystems1 na fam. Hes saying there was too much of a difference between the two. You guys guys are essentially doing an experiment, with three different variables. Come on now!
Linear combing without a doubt. Trapping air in the mortar creates a pneumatic cushion that makes it impossible to get full coverage, and air voids are what will cause weak spots in the tile. Changing up the notch size won't solve this problem. Linear combing is the best way to avoid trapping air. Running the combing perpendicular to the long side of the tile can also help let the air evacuate more easily.
I stick porcelain tiles measuring 120 cm by 23 cm over a smoothed concrete base. My tiles have a concavity (curvature) of a maximum of 1 mm. I use quite expensive glue and want a minimum thickness layer. - What sizes of U teeth will suit me?
Hi there! We recommend contacting our customer service team so they can ask you more questions about your specific project: 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (CA).
Hi Kelly, when installing tile, we are collapsing the ridges into the free space or voids left by the trowel, rather than "removing air". Typical practice would be to naturally trowel out the thin-set side to side, place the tile on the ridges and roll them over a little at a time as the tile is moved forward and backward with the push and pull movement of the setter. Hope this helps!
Hi Ron, Thanks for your comment! When installing tile, we are collapsing the ridges into the free space or voids left by the trowel, rather than "removing air". Typical practice would be to naturally trowel out the thin-set side to side, place the tile on the ridges and roll them over a little at a time as the tile is moved forward and backward with the push and pull movement of the setter. Hope that helps!
Hello. This is a newbie question. Do I need to use a crack-isolation membrane when applying 60x60 cms granite tiles on concrete, or, can I put the granite directly on the concrete? Thank you. I would appreciate any answer. I know you said there is not definite rule in choosing a trowel but, which one should I try first for the 60X60 (what is your best estimate, since I have to buy ...). Thank you.
Hello Rogelio. Uncoupling membrane - DITRA or other Schluter uncoupling membrane would be strongly recommended when installing any tile, especially stone, over concrete substrates. Concrete substrates and stone tiles expand and contract at different rates, which will cause cracking and delaminating of the tiled surface. DITRA and other Schluter uncoupling membranes protect the ceramic or stone covering by neutralizing the differential movement stresses between the tile and concrete substrate, which eliminates the major cause of cracking and delaminating. Schluter uncoupling membranes provide other benefits including vapor management, support/load distribution, and waterproofing. As for your trowel question, for a 24x24” tile, you could try a 1/4x1/2 or 1/2x1/2 trowel, always checking coverage to make sure it’s sufficient. Hope this helps, please give our support team a call if you have further questions!
@@schlutersystems1 Thank you. You sirs are awesome. I appreciate this very much. I am starting with a 5.5 x 5.2 meters of concrete "garage"... I hope it turns out great (or good at least) ;-) Wish me luck!!!
Hi David! You can start with a start with a 1/4" x 3/8" trowel and see if that gives you enough coverage. If not, you can move up to the next size. Hope this helps!
Hi Elfrid, Yes, that’s a good one to try! See what you get for coverage and move to a larger notch if you need to. Just remember to back butter for that size tile!
Question: If you are doing a wood floor with a 12"x12" tile set between the wood grid, with only a 1/16th of an inch clearance around all sides of the tile, then how would you achieve the thinset ridge collapse?
Hi Sean! Do you mind giving our customer service team a call on this one? They are experts at what they do and are best suited to help you out! Thanks :)
YOIU WOULD KEY THE SUBSTRATE TROWEL THE SUBSTRATE AND KEY THE TILE TROWE; THE TILE YOW WILL GET THE COVERAGE BECAUSE THE DOUBLE RIDGES COLLAPSE EACHOTHER MORRE EASILY BE AREFUL WITH YOUR NOTCH SICE SHOULD BE 1 SIZE LESS THAN THE ORIGINAL SIZE YOU TRWOEL THE FLOOR WITH IN A SHORT AREA YOU MAY END UP WITH MESS OR LIPPAGE
Apparently, I should have back-buttered the Schluter Ditra-Heat too. Because after following the Schluter directions to the T, the Ditra would NOT stick to my concrete floor. It is already "uncoupling". Very frustrating!
Hey there, we'd love to help you out if you'd like.... please feel free to give our Support Team a call and they may have a few tips that can help for next time. Thanks.
As a diyer I still don't understand what size trowel to get. Is a medium size game trowel ok for just a home owner renovating the bathroom or something? Or do you still recommend buying a bunch of trowels and testing for coverage on first tile?
Give our team a call! Checking coverage with the trowels you have, is a really good idea. It really depends on a few conditions as well as the tile manufacturers recommended size. Try our team at: (US)888-472-4588 or (CA)800-667-8746
I have a concrete floor area that is running out by 18mm from one wall to the other. What's the best way to get a good flat substrate? I wish to put down Ditra heat.
Hi Dave, would you be able to give our customer service a call to discuss this one? We have a few questions, and might be easier to discuss together quickly with our specialist. You can reach us here: 888-472-4588
Hi Sajal, Here are some videos on how to safely remove tile: ruclips.net/video/tvMXxFcy8tE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/RO3gKXeFswc/видео.html Hope this helps!
Good question, Germán! There could be a few reasons why the mortar is not adhering to the tile, so you will have to figure out what the reason is before correcting: • Either there is not enough mortar • The mortar wasn’t mixed properly • The tile wasn’t embedded firmly enough • Too much time passed between spreading mortar and installing the tile causing the mortar to dry… So, once you know what the reason is, you can adjust accordingly!
That’s a great answer.. but didn’t get this question. He asked, when you lift a tile to check if you have gotten 85-100% coverage, do you have to re-trowel and set a new tile or can you lay the tile you’ve just lifted and checked back down and get the same coverage as before? Saying you’ve hit the 85-100% coverage. I want to know as well.
Right! If the tile you're checking has proper coverage, it may be okay to just re-embed it and twist it in a little to make sure it is well bonded. However, if any thin-set mortar pressed out the sides while checking, it may be necessary to apply some more thin-set mortar so the tile does not end up lower than the rest. This will need to be evaluated each time before deciding how to proceed.
Hi Bryan, That's a good question. Since there are many variables with the installation, such as the back of the tile, the substrate, etc., it is best to start out with a new smaller trowel, like the 1/4". Back butter it and then after installing, lift it and check for proper coverage. If there is not enough coverage, move up to an appropriate sized trowel and check again before continuing. Hope this helps!
So I’ve noticed when the notches get bigger the options turn into tiger trowel 1/2” square trowel but what about the round notch trowel when and where would I use a round notch trowel.
Hi Stephen! The purpose of the teeth on a trowel is to gauge the amount of mortar being applied to the substrate. There are many different sizes and shapes of trowels including square-notch, round-notch, v-notch and also what’s called a Euro-trowel with varying size teeth. A good place to seek knowledge about the different trowels and their features or purposes Is the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation
This video didn't really explain why u need to have the right size trowel, this video just compared the swirling technique to the straight line technique with back butter. Still, how do I choose the right size trowel?
Hey Richard, not sure there is a general rule when it comes to the trowel size. The right trowel is the trowel that gets you the right coverage. Proper trowel selection comes down to trial and error as you start the tile installation and check the thin-set mortar coverage after the first piece is set. Hope this helps.
The backbuttering on the 2nd tile disguises the coverage. You have 100% backbutter coverage but because of that we can't see % contact with the adhesive on the floor.
Hi Ed, thanks and good point. The complete coverage we do see in all areas proud of the back-buttering, (which designates the good coverage,) ensures that the tile will have a very solid and complete bond.
Hi Paul, Try starting with a 1/4" x 3/8" U notch trowel and then check your coverage. If you don't have the recommended amount of coverage, you should bump up to the next size trowel. Hope this helps!
Hi Jeffrey, Sorry for the delayed response! The main point is to trowel straight lines in one direction and press the tile in a perpendicular direction to the ridges when embedding the tile. Some feel that troweling the ridges across the short direction can sometimes allow for better air release, however we have found that both ways work well. Hope this helps!
Hi Dave, you could probably use a 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/2" x 1/2" trowel. Always be sure to check that you are getting sufficient coverage. Hope that helps!
These questions are for the poster of the video: Is 6"x24" a large format tile? or a small format? what size trowel would you recommend for that? Do you recommend the premixed thin sets? Is putting backer board as a subflooring in washrooms, a good idea?
Hi Syed! 6" x 24" would be considered a large format tile. We have different trowel size recommendations for installing our different membranes. As for trowel size for tile, it is best to see what is recommended by the tile manufacturer. We endorse our own line of thinset mortars: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Setting-Materials/c/SM or unmodified thinset mortar We also have a line of waterproofing membranes designed for floors: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Membranes/Uncoupling-%28DITRA%29/c/M-U and walls: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Membranes/Waterproofing-%28KERDI%29/c/M-W Hope this helps!
Back buttering isnt necessary isn't required if using the proper trowel and proper thinset . Picking your tile back up to see the coverage is anyone's best bet. Easier to see when you don't back butter
Those membranes are an unneeded expense on any decent concrete slab floor. In fact, I took out a shower mad in the 70s with none of that crap behind it and there was no leaks. These products are designed for people who can't do a job correctly.
Thank you for the demonstration, guys. One thing I noticed though, you did not cover the first tile with the thin set as you did with the second tile...no wonder the first tile showed such a poor coverage. Let's do things right, ok?
8 trowels on the table. "I like to start with this one". Put the others away. OK. From tile 1 to tile 2, change pattern AND trowels. Look 100% coverage! So what was the difference? The trowel or the pattern? Both? Who knows? Pick one topic, trowels or technique. This video explains neither.
You DON'T trowel out the thinset the length of the tile. It is ALWAYS recommended to trowel in the direction of the narrow part so the air has a better chance of working out from under the tile......These are professionals?????
While true, they clearly did achieve proper coverage even with troweling along the length of the tile. Trowel direction is not as important as the other techniques.
It is easer for the setter to push and pull the tile than go side to side. Getting the ridges to collapse over is way more important than troweling in the direction of the narrow part. As you can see, they achieved proper coverage.
I know right I thought it was me but it all began with the buttering and short guy contradicted the tall bully guy. Come we're adults at least cut tape scratch each other off camera and then do it like grown ups. At one point I thought he was smack upside the head. You call on tyron...
The bad news on Schultter, they don't tell you it's a big pain in the butt . If you are on top of the Schultter you a smashing the Schultter with your knees from kneeling down on the Schultter.
Good commentary. Think the guy on the left should have talked "less" and have let the guy on the right who was doing the actual work talk a little "more"...Otherwise, excellent video.
5:07 "quarter by 3/8". 8:07 "quarter by 3/8”? Great video though; both men were superlative in explaining with extra tips. Liked and subscribed; will be thinking about buying your company's tools/products above others because of this video.
This video is incorrect. Trowel lines are supposed to go PARALLEL TO THE SHORT EDGE of the tile so air has to travel the least distance to escape to minimizes air pockets.
I was thinking that. Not a professional but I’ve done some. And that stood out.
Hi There. . I'd like to know ? What size notch is best to use on a 12 x 12 inch tile ? U or Square notch ?
You worry too much 😅
That was very informative. It's always best to learn from the professionals. Thank you very much for making the professional advice available online.
Thanks for the feedback! Our pleasure to help!
Great info. I just found your product and absolutely love everything Schluter is doing.
Thanks so much Michael. Really appreciated!
You are supposed to pull to the shortest side of the tile so the air has less room to escape.. that being said as long as you dont do a swirl and you work it in the thinset and back butter shits stronger than your grandparents relationship
Am working with this now. Putting in a shed with plywood. And oh boy glad I got the Schluter product 👍🏾
As a tile setter of 15 years, I agree its best practice to back butter tiles but at the same time I do not feel back buttering in every given situation worth the extra effort. I believe half of it has to do with proper trowel size and thinset (non sag preferred) and installation technique. If you look at the back buttered tile at the end of the video, it does not have 80 percent contact and coverage. The whole tile has thinset on it of course, but the contact that is made between the mortar and bb'd tile are the squiggly lines... all the other spots are just the back butter that made no contact with the mortar spread on the floor.
How many sqft coverage do you get out of a bag using a half inch trowel? For floor...Around 80 sqft?
you don't give a shit , walk away with money and after few months tile craks you won't answer. hahaha..
@@hapetaa No I just have enouch experience to know the difference between "manufacturer recommendations" (you know, the guys that want you to spend more money for nothing) and actual requirements. This depends on the flatness of your substrate, tile size, trowel size, traffic conditions and other factors. Back buttering is a great standard of practice but is NOT always required.
If you create the high/low mortar lines across the short dimension of the tile instead of the long dimension there is less chance of trapping air in the grooves. Run the mortar lines across the width of the tile not the length.
You mean he lie to us?
You mean he tricked us so make sure fail and the burning tile thing is better?
😅😅
Had that exact thought when he started running lines lengthwise 👍🏻
Excellent tutorial for setting a tile.
Thank you! Cheers!
Excellent detailed, clear step by step with context.
Glad it was helpful!🙂
Very helpful. The other video recommended by Richard Hume down in the comments section is also good to watch.
Nice discussion gentlemen. Thank you very much.
Awesome tips y’all! We’d have to say getting it right takes a little trowel & error to hone these skills! However, this demonstration will help us set the technique fo sho! We’re doing a school bus to tiny home on wheels conversion right now. We just finished using the Schluter Kerdi Board V for our curved shower wall and the Schluter Kerdi board for the flat walls and it came out great!! We’re so happy that we found this video before we start setting our tile on the floor! Solid tips here y’all!
- Brian +Erin
"trowel & error" 😄 Love it! Good luck with your tiny home!
Schluter-Systems North America thanks! It’s coming along great! We just posted the video to our Kerdi Shower Kit installation on our channel if your curious to see how it came out!
Looks like you guys had a great time with the install, happy travels!
Thanks guys . great job .Well be getting Schuter for my bathroom makeover
Glad to hear it! Let us know of any questions you may have on your project! 🙂
I've learnt something new today. Thanks for the content, it was really helpful. 👌
I used to always back butter but if using 1/2x1/2 trowel I usually get 100% coverage without back buttering👍 but always pull up and check as u go👍
Very helpful tips!
Thanks! 🍊
I'm curious about one thing. I was under the impression that best practices in setting rectangular tile is to have the direction of the ridges be in the direction of the short side, not the long side. Reason being that it releases the air more easily and provides for superior coverage.
Granted, when you pulled the ridges in the long direction and backbuttered, you did get coverage, but isn't it generally true that you want the ridges to follow the direction of the short side?
Hi Kenneth! It depends on the shape of the tile. For instance, the longer the tile, the more ridges you'll have if you trowel across the short side, so you have more ridges to collapse. If you do it the long way in that case, you only have a few to collapse and that may work better. Hope that helps!
@@schlutersystems1 that response, is literally mathematically incorrect.
Regardless of that, it is still easier to get the air out, running the trowel lines, the shorter distance.
Ive worked side by side other tile setters and they always are able to throw tile down like frisbees. Often they wonder why it takes me almost twice as long and I explain its quality over quantity! They usually have problems with their tile popping up or whatever. Not me! Mine are ALWAYS back buttered and very carefully placed! Definitely pays off to take the extra time.
We had some funny nicknames in Carpentry that we'd give the low skilled: "Lightning Boy" (never strikes twice in the same place) or "Divot" (not because they like to golf), "Panel Banger" (sloppy work, rough, unrefined), "Blood Donor" (always injuring themselves)... I wonder are there any nicknames that Tile Setters have in their trade?
@@cptcosmoin my area we have a general term for all, scabs or hacks, both mean the same as all yours my brother, garbage kind always be garbage I guess
Thanks, guys, for the professional advice 👍🏻
Always there to help!
Great info.question I have ,had a new house built an tiled with 12”x24” tiles after moving in approximately 6 months ago I notice certain tiles do not have a solid sound to them when I tap with a screwdriver , your thoughts
Hmm there might be air pockets underneath your tiles. You're welcome to contact our Customer Service team
US : 800-472-4588
CA: 800-667-8746
Another thing to add is if you’re using a leveling system a 1/4 x 3/8 may bottom out on the clip before full coverage is achieved!
Very well done video - professional guys!
Literally don’t know what I’m watching but it’s intriguing
Thank you
Aren't the trowel ridges supposed to be perpendicular to the long edge of the tile?
yes
@@justinburkewalsh8061 Ah! thought so, just trying to reinforce knowledge acquired previously.
We have hydronic in floor heating in our concrete basement. Would you recommend using a schluter product between the concrete and tile? Our concern is the restricted heat transfer through a membrane.
Hi Matt, would you be able to give our Customer Support team a call to discuss your project in a bit more detail, and they will be able to make a recommendation from there. 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Thanks!
Wow
It’s impressive.
What do I have to do to learn how set tiles?
Just for myself and my projects..not planning to change trade!!
Hmmm... not so sure what would be available in your region for learning opportunities! Perhaps check with a Schluter retailer in your area? You can find one here: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/store-finder
Another real-world thing that got me in trouble in the beginning that they didn't mention here, is not allowing for an uneven substrate. A thicker mortar bed gives just a little wiggle room when dealing with small discrepancies, especially on cement and with large tiles. So, don't even try to go for the least.
To avoid the thinset squishing up through the grout lines, use a pointer trowel to clean the edges just a bit before setting the next tile.
Honestly we've all done that... but I finally learned my lesson (failed floor) that there's a real limit to what you can do in one step. Now I flatten the substrate first - before anything else, even de-coupling material goes down. Either self-leveling underlayment or for small jobs at the very least screed the low spots with modified thinset and let it cure for a day or two. Not telling anyone what to do but trust me there's nothing worse than a callback that's 100% because you were pushing your luck with a floor that wasn't flat. .
@@HBSuccess Yes, totally agree. Though that’s a different issue. Sounds like you tried to fix a bad floor with extra thick thinset? I agree, that’s a disaster waiting to happen.
But this video is about choosing trowel size. My trowel size preference just allows for small discrepancies, or a layer of membrane, etc., not fixing un level floors.
Great work guys
Thanks!
I would have rather seen the first tile worked back and forth like the second tile was, to really give an apples to apples comparison. Obviously #2 would still be far better, but I'm just so disappointed every time I see a comparison of notch size, when its really a comparison of technique AND notch size...
Chris King they took turns working the 2nd tile lol. As wet as his mud is anything should get good coverage if you do a lil push & wiggle
regardless of the movement or the force there are airpockets on the first tile, wiggling it wont get rid of the airpockets. Youd have to slide the tile pretty far for the air to be released, and when your 30 tiles in, you wont have inches. only wiggle room
Not to mention...if he would have back buttered the first tile I bet it would have looked like a higher % coverage
It doesn’t matter how much you move the tile if you swirl your thin-set, you can’t get the air out.
AND THE SECOND TILES OF COURSE THEY PUT FIRST THE GLUE IN THE BACK BEFORE SETTING
Do me a favor tell floors and decors in Saugus Massachusetts that they need to start selling unmodified things set to install the schluter band . They never heard of it. I told them and showed them your video but all they tell me is never heard of it
I’m a delivery driver for a tile /marble company & I told myself I will figure out how to install myself & little did I know it’s actually easier than I thought along with this vids I know I can set tile using all the tips but I thought your supposed to run mortar the width of the tile not the length?
Great! Glad they're helping. As long as you embed your tile into the thin-set by working the tile back and forth, perpendicular to the ridges, you can comb the thin-set in either direction.
Thanks for the excellent video. I’m looking forward to using DITRA for the first time. I have three bathrooms and a laundry room to tile. Floors and tub surrounds.
I’ve read you should leave 1/4” for expansion at wall and tubs for DITRA and the tile. I plan to use Kerri-Band. What caulk or similar do I use for the 1/4” gap to waterproof?
Hi Jim,
For complete information about perimeter movement handling, please see the "Movement Joints" section of the DITRA Installation Handbook.
For DITRA to walls, we recommend the use of BEKOTEC-BRS/-BRSK edge strip or a sill seal type product (a compressible polyethylene gasket) and for tile to walls, a Schluter-DILEX movement joint for tile base or no base, or cut the compressible gasket at the top of the tile and cover with a wood base. When the tile meets the tub, over the DITRA, KERDI-BAND and KERDI-FIX (or suitable sealant) combination, you can use a DILEX movement joint between the tile and the tub or a suitable caulk.
If you would like to discuss your particular project in more detail, please give our Product Support team a call. 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Hope this helps!
Great job in the videos Bryant! I'm enjoying learning from them.
awesome tips!
Thanks Jon!
Good stuff for the DIYer Like myself
Glad to hear it!
Thanks guys!
Our pleasure!!
Thanks for the info guys.. it answered a few of my questions.. I’m about to attempt to install my kitchen backsplash with 0 (Zero) tiling experience... lol oooh lord..wish me luck!! :)
Good luck! If you need help with any profiles or thin-set mortar questions, please give us a call! 800-472-4588 😊
Can you use a 1/4x1/4 trial for the shower pan?
Hi Justin, that might not give you enough coverage. A 1/4" x 3/8" or 3/8" x 3/8" would be better. Always apply the thin-set, embed the tray, and then lift the tray back up to check for coverage. Go to the next trowel size up, if needed. Hope this helps, and please feel free to give our Product Support team a call to discuss your project in more detail or ask for any further specific advise for your application. Hope this helps! 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada). Thanks!
I have 12" x 24" natural marble tile, 1/2" thick, and plan on using 1/16" grout lines. The subfloor is 3/4" OSB over 16" joists and I don't want to double the subfloor. I have Ditra XL, and Schluter All-Set thinset. Looking for a recommendation regarding the tile pattern. Would prefer to have them meet at the corners, but some have suggested staggering them by 1/3.... Any thoughts are welcome!
Hi there! We'll leave this to the RUclips community to help you out here. 😊
Another Schluter video states to make the thinset grooves perpendicular to the length. This has video has it parallel to length. Which is it?
Hi Richard!
The important take away is all of the trowel ridges of thin-set mortar go in one direction (i.e., no swirl marks, etc.).
Hope this helps!
@@schlutersystems1 regarding the powder dust on the back of tile, would you recommend a damp, not wet cloth to wipe, first ?
I have a Question? DOES TITRA SHULTER can be used over "Wood plank" sub floor? what gap between plank is acceptable to use Titra shulter?
Hi Hafy, yes, you can follow detail D-SP-TS in the DITRA-Installation Handbook. We don't have any specific written requirements for the gap between the planks, but please contact Customer Service or your local Schluter rep if you are concerned it may be an issue in your application and they can help you evaluate it.
Here's a link to the Handbook: sccpublic.s3-external-1.amazonaws.com/sys-master/images/h9f/h5e/9250010234910/DITRA%20Installation%20Handbook.pdf
And here are the numbers for our Customer Service team if you'd like to discuss your project in more detail: 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (Canada).
Hope this helps!
Dude get to the assigned notch trowel selections for 12 by 18 wall tile
3 different variables between first tile and second one. Which made the biggest impact? Back butter, margin height, or linear combing?
Hi there conneljw,
This video is covering all three! 😊 Depending on the tile and project: proper technique, back-buttering and trowel size can all bear equal importance.
Good catch
@@schlutersystems1 na fam. Hes saying there was too much of a difference between the two. You guys guys are essentially doing an experiment, with three different variables. Come on now!
Linear combing without a doubt. Trapping air in the mortar creates a pneumatic cushion that makes it impossible to get full coverage, and air voids are what will cause weak spots in the tile. Changing up the notch size won't solve this problem. Linear combing is the best way to avoid trapping air. Running the combing perpendicular to the long side of the tile can also help let the air evacuate more easily.
I stick porcelain tiles measuring 120 cm by 23 cm over a smoothed concrete base.
My tiles have a concavity (curvature) of a maximum of 1 mm.
I use quite expensive glue and want a minimum thickness layer.
- What sizes of U teeth will suit me?
Hi there! We recommend contacting our customer service team so they can ask you more questions about your specific project: 800-472-4588 (US) or 800-667-8746 (CA).
Is it okay with porcelain tile? I think my installer used this with porcelain tiles
Hi there! Yes, you can use our DITRA membrane with porcelain tiles!
Is it good practice to brush the back before back buttering?
I am a rookie. I noticed yoou placed the trowel lines in the direction of the longest side. Should it not be the other direction for air release?
Hi Kelly, when installing tile, we are collapsing the ridges into the free space or voids left by the trowel, rather than "removing air". Typical practice would be to naturally trowel out the thin-set side to side, place the tile on the ridges and roll them over a little at a time as the tile is moved forward and backward with the push and pull movement of the setter. Hope this helps!
I thought the ridges should run the shortest side of the tile to ease air removal,this video ran them the long dimension,so whats correct?? thanks
Hi Ron,
Thanks for your comment! When installing tile, we are collapsing the ridges into the free space or voids left by the trowel, rather than "removing air". Typical practice would be to naturally trowel out the thin-set side to side, place the tile on the ridges and roll them over a little at a time as the tile is moved forward and backward with the push and pull movement of the setter. Hope that helps!
These are great videos very helpful keep them coming.
Hello. This is a newbie question. Do I need to use a crack-isolation membrane when applying 60x60 cms granite tiles on concrete, or, can I put the granite directly on the concrete? Thank you. I would appreciate any answer. I know you said there is not definite rule in choosing a trowel but, which one should I try first for the 60X60 (what is your best estimate, since I have to buy ...). Thank you.
Hello Rogelio.
Uncoupling membrane - DITRA or other Schluter uncoupling membrane would be strongly recommended when installing any tile, especially stone, over concrete substrates. Concrete substrates and stone tiles expand and contract at different rates, which will cause cracking and delaminating of the tiled surface. DITRA and other Schluter uncoupling membranes protect the ceramic or stone covering by neutralizing the differential movement stresses between the tile and concrete substrate, which eliminates the major cause of cracking and delaminating. Schluter uncoupling membranes provide other benefits including vapor management, support/load distribution, and waterproofing.
As for your trowel question, for a 24x24” tile, you could try a 1/4x1/2 or 1/2x1/2 trowel, always checking coverage to make sure it’s sufficient.
Hope this helps, please give our support team a call if you have further questions!
@@schlutersystems1 Thank you. You sirs are awesome. I appreciate this very much. I am starting with a 5.5 x 5.2 meters of concrete "garage"... I hope it turns out great (or good at least) ;-) Wish me luck!!!
Good luck!
Great video.
What size trowel do you recommend for 12x24 porcelain tile on a shower wall?
Hi David!
You can start with a start with a 1/4" x 3/8" trowel and see if that gives you enough coverage. If not, you can move up to the next size.
Hope this helps!
If you mix the mortar right than back butter is not needed but you need a good tile setter to show you how to mix.
Great advice and work! Thanks
So can i used 1/4x3/8x14 to install tile 12x24 directly to concrete thanks
Hi Elfrid, Yes, that’s a good one to try! See what you get for coverage and move to a larger notch if you need to. Just remember to back butter for that size tile!
Stupid
Question: If you are doing a wood floor with a 12"x12" tile set between the wood grid, with only a 1/16th of an inch clearance around all sides of the tile, then how would you achieve the thinset ridge collapse?
Hi Sean! Do you mind giving our customer service team a call on this one? They are experts at what they do and are best suited to help you out! Thanks :)
Could I get a phone number?
Sorry we missed this, Sean. Here you go: 888-472-4588
YOIU WOULD KEY THE SUBSTRATE TROWEL THE SUBSTRATE AND KEY THE TILE TROWE; THE TILE YOW WILL GET THE COVERAGE BECAUSE THE DOUBLE RIDGES COLLAPSE EACHOTHER MORRE EASILY BE AREFUL WITH YOUR NOTCH SICE SHOULD BE 1 SIZE LESS THAN THE ORIGINAL SIZE YOU TRWOEL THE FLOOR WITH IN A SHORT AREA YOU MAY END UP WITH MESS OR LIPPAGE
Apparently, I should have back-buttered the Schluter Ditra-Heat too. Because after following the Schluter directions to the T, the Ditra would NOT stick to my concrete floor. It is already "uncoupling". Very frustrating!
Hey there, we'd love to help you out if you'd like.... please feel free to give our Support Team a call and they may have a few tips that can help for next time. Thanks.
As a diyer I still don't understand what size trowel to get. Is a medium size game trowel ok for just a home owner renovating the bathroom or something? Or do you still recommend buying a bunch of trowels and testing for coverage on first tile?
Give our team a call! Checking coverage with the trowels you have, is a really good idea. It really depends on a few conditions as well as the tile manufacturers recommended size. Try our team at: (US)888-472-4588 or (CA)800-667-8746
@@schlutersystems1 ok thank you.
Great video thanks for the demo very useful as I prepare to do my shower
🍊🙂 Thanks for watching!
I wish Schluter sold all 8 in a package.
I have a concrete floor area that is running out by 18mm from one wall to the other. What's the best way to get a good flat substrate? I wish to put down Ditra heat.
Hi Dave, would you be able to give our customer service a call to discuss this one? We have a few questions, and might be easier to discuss together quickly with our specialist. You can reach us here: 888-472-4588
18 MM OVER WHAT DISTANCE??
Great
If we move tile, will the thin set come in to gape and create more gaps btwn tiles
Hi Sajal,
Here are some videos on how to safely remove tile:
ruclips.net/video/tvMXxFcy8tE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/RO3gKXeFswc/видео.html
Hope this helps!
So when you lift a tile to check if you are doing it right, should you re do all the process or just lay it down again?
Good question, Germán!
There could be a few reasons why the mortar is not adhering to the tile, so you will have to figure out what the reason is before correcting:
• Either there is not enough mortar
• The mortar wasn’t mixed properly
• The tile wasn’t embedded firmly enough
• Too much time passed between spreading mortar and installing the tile causing the mortar to dry…
So, once you know what the reason is, you can adjust accordingly!
That’s a great answer.. but didn’t get this question. He asked, when you lift a tile to check if you have gotten 85-100% coverage, do you have to re-trowel and set a new tile or can you lay the tile you’ve just lifted and checked back down and get the same coverage as before? Saying you’ve hit the 85-100% coverage. I want to know as well.
Right! If the tile you're checking has proper coverage, it may be okay to just re-embed it and twist it in a little to make sure it is well bonded. However, if any thin-set mortar pressed out the sides while checking, it may be necessary to apply some more thin-set mortar so the tile does not end up lower than the rest. This will need to be evaluated each time before deciding how to proceed.
You showed the improper way to apply thinset with the 1/4" trowel. So what would the coverage be if it was back buttered and directional not swirl?
Hi Bryan, That's a good question. Since there are many variables with the installation, such as the back of the tile, the substrate, etc., it is best to start out with a new smaller trowel, like the 1/4". Back butter it and then after installing, lift it and check for proper coverage. If there is not enough coverage, move up to an appropriate sized trowel and check again before continuing. Hope this helps!
So I’ve noticed when the notches get bigger the options turn into tiger trowel 1/2” square trowel but what about the round notch trowel when and where would I use a round notch trowel.
Hi Stephen! The purpose of the teeth on a trowel is to gauge the amount of mortar being applied to the substrate. There are many different sizes and shapes of trowels including square-notch, round-notch, v-notch and also what’s called a Euro-trowel with varying size teeth. A good place to seek knowledge about the different trowels and their features or purposes Is the Ceramic Tile Education Foundation
This video didn't really explain why u need to have the right size trowel, this video just compared the swirling technique to the straight line technique with back butter. Still, how do I choose the right size trowel?
Hey Richard, not sure there is a general rule when it comes to the trowel size. The right trowel is the trowel that gets you the right coverage. Proper trowel selection comes down to trial and error as you start the tile installation and check the thin-set mortar coverage after the first piece is set. Hope this helps.
The backbuttering on the 2nd tile disguises the coverage. You have 100% backbutter coverage but because of that we can't see % contact with the adhesive on the floor.
Hi Ed, thanks and good point. The complete coverage we do see in all areas proud of the back-buttering, (which designates the good coverage,) ensures that the tile will have a very solid and complete bond.
Was thinking the same thing but I had seen tests with glass tiles without back butter, and it confirms that trawling must be done in one direction
Excellent Video.... great learning tool......
Oh backbutter keep on rollin....Mississippi moon won’t you keep on shining on.... I like this song when back buttering.
Hmm, maybe we should work that background music into our next video on tile coverage!
what trowel size for 6 x 24 porcelain tile?
Hi Paul, Try starting with a 1/4" x 3/8" U notch trowel and then check your coverage. If you don't have the recommended amount of coverage, you should bump up to the next size trowel. Hope this helps!
👍👍😊
I thought ridges should be running in the direction of short-side of tile?
Hi Jeffrey, Sorry for the delayed response! The main point is to trowel straight lines in one direction and press the tile in a perpendicular direction to the ridges when embedding the tile. Some feel that troweling the ridges across the short direction can sometimes allow for better air release, however we have found that both ways work well. Hope this helps!
@@schlutersystems1 It does, thank you!
Anytime! 😊
What's size trowel for 600x600 porcelain tiles. Tiles are not cupped. I wàs told to use a 12mm half round trowel..but can't find one.
Hi Dave, you could probably use a 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/2" x 1/2" trowel. Always be sure to check that you are getting sufficient coverage. Hope that helps!
were do I get or who makes the margin trowel being used ? I've been looking for that thing for years.
Hi there Stephen! It appears to be a Marshalltown branded trowel.
Those trowels are garbage get the trowels made by Ruby they also make the Schluter trowels you can find them at Floor and Decor
谢谢
They did not mention if the trowel is square or u
Hi there! The Ditra and Kerdi trowels feature a square notch.
Andy does the the high Brian gets the low
Short and sweet notchy or. Rain back butter after you cut a tile on wet saw or dry or let dry of. Course no way notches maybe hopefully
These questions are for the poster of the video:
Is 6"x24" a large format tile? or a small format? what size trowel would you recommend for that?
Do you recommend the premixed thin sets?
Is putting backer board as a subflooring in washrooms, a good idea?
Hi Syed!
6" x 24" would be considered a large format tile. We have different trowel size recommendations for installing our different membranes. As for trowel size for tile, it is best to see what is recommended by the tile manufacturer.
We endorse our own line of thinset mortars:
www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Setting-Materials/c/SM
or unmodified thinset mortar
We also have a line of waterproofing membranes designed for floors: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Membranes/Uncoupling-%28DITRA%29/c/M-U
and walls: www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Membranes/Waterproofing-%28KERDI%29/c/M-W
Hope this helps!
Back buttering isnt necessary isn't required if using the proper trowel and proper thinset . Picking your tile back up to see the coverage is anyone's best bet. Easier to see when you don't back butter
12x24 I personally use same technic however with half inch towel... 100% CORRECT WAY
Respect from Russian industrial tilers
This membrane seems to use more thinset!
Those membranes are an unneeded expense on any decent concrete slab floor. In fact, I took out a shower mad in the 70s with none of that crap behind it and there was no leaks. These products are designed for people who can't do a job correctly.
8:34 What I do see is Bryant getting old and not holding his trowel at a 90 degree angle while pulling his lines.
i thought this was a home depot video until the end.
This one was educational. HD videos are not.
Thank you for the demonstration, guys. One thing I noticed though, you did not cover the first tile with the thin set as you did with the second tile...no wonder the first tile showed such a poor coverage. Let's do things right, ok?
I believe they purposely did this to demonstrate poor coverage
8 trowels on the table. "I like to start with this one". Put the others away. OK.
From tile 1 to tile 2, change pattern AND trowels. Look 100% coverage! So what was the difference? The trowel or the pattern? Both? Who knows?
Pick one topic, trowels or technique. This video explains neither.
You guys must love the Cleveland Browns.
You DON'T trowel out the thinset the length of the tile. It is ALWAYS recommended to trowel in the direction of the narrow part so the air has a better chance of working out from under the tile......These are professionals?????
While true, they clearly did achieve proper coverage even with troweling along the length of the tile. Trowel direction is not as important as the other techniques.
It is easer for the setter to push and pull the tile than go side to side. Getting the ridges to collapse over is way more important than troweling in the direction of the narrow part. As you can see, they achieved proper coverage.
Man, I feel the tension between the two guys. Is it just me or is the taller guy (Andy) condescending to Bryant??
No tension there Tee, really good buds actually. 😉
Some people see what they want to see..
I know right I thought it was me but it all began with the buttering and short guy contradicted the tall bully guy. Come we're adults at least cut tape scratch each other off camera and then do it like grown ups. At one point I thought he was smack upside the head. You call on tyron...
Well guys salesmen thats you are🤘
Like 👍
Mud looks a lil soupy to me 🧐
You guys act like this is not your first rodeo.
So a gritty sound means air pockets, huh? Nice to know.
Should put a beat to that tune. ;>))
No, that means the tile is grinding against the concrete and it's too low. You would need to switch to a bigger notched trowel.
The bad news on Schultter, they don't tell you it's a big pain in the butt . If you are on top of the Schultter you a smashing the Schultter with your knees from kneeling down on the Schultter.
Good commentary. Think the guy on the left should have talked "less" and have let the guy on the right who was doing the actual work talk a little "more"...Otherwise, excellent video.