Hi. First of all great vídeo. Thanks. I had seen this method before and all the other ones but there is one thing i cant understand on any of them... why does it needs to be measured on ogive? Why not just OAL? (Not english native, sorry)
Much appreciated! Thanks for the comment and support. Measuring from CBTO gives a much more consistent and accurate measurement vs COAL on hp bullets. The meplat at the tip of the bullet can vary in length so readings can be inconsistent measuring COAL. Tipped bullets give more consistency than hp bullets measuring COAL but off the ogive is the most accurate and repeatable measurement.
@@hkrifleworks thanks for the answer. So its the same but the tip can have more factory error than the ogive "distance". Therefore you get better results measuring ogives and not tips. Did I got it? Thanks again
I have a custom built 28 Nosler and I’m running 28 Nosler Brass. I did this method and the neck of the brass is making just enough contact with the neck chamber. It’s not letting the bolt “free fall” so I have to apply a very small amount of pressure to get the bolt knob down. Other than trimming my necks, is there any other way to remedy this? I anneal and resize after every firing so every case is consistent. Thanks.
If the neck is the contact point, I’d make sure your brass is trimmed to the correct length and potentially turned if needed depending on your chamber and neck thickness. Any updates since your original comment? (Sorry for the lengthy reply)
Which action is that? I don't know if you mentioned it. I have a couple of Bighorn TL3s and love the control feed. That's how I used to do it...then I got a Terminus Zeus action and just pull the barrel and stick a loaded round in it and seat it until it pulls out with very little effort.
20 different answers doesn’t matter! Truth is, it’s just doesn’t have to be that precise. As long as your not sticking the bullet in the lands far enough to pull it out of the case. It’s only a starting point. Suppose you get the exact measurement. Now suppose I get a measurement that’s +/- .005-.010 different from yours. We both then subtract .020 as a starting point. So who cares whether I’m starting +/- 5 or 10 thousandths different than yours? No one should because it’s only a starting point. What he’s doing is not wrong, it’s just way over kill for something doesn’t need to be that precise! This is a much quicker, easier way. ruclips.net/video/a7vjgEgnhHk/видео.html
Very clever strategy clearly explained.
Lots of ways to do that, but that was very clever! Thanks...
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the content, any idea what needs to be removed on a ruger american bolt?
Thanks again
Thanks man! I’d just pull the ejector and cocking piece and you’re good to go!
Hi. First of all great vídeo. Thanks.
I had seen this method before and all the other ones but there is one thing i cant understand on any of them... why does it needs to be measured on ogive? Why not just OAL? (Not english native, sorry)
Much appreciated! Thanks for the comment and support. Measuring from CBTO gives a much more consistent and accurate measurement vs COAL on hp bullets. The meplat at the tip of the bullet can vary in length so readings can be inconsistent measuring COAL. Tipped bullets give more consistency than hp bullets measuring COAL but off the ogive is the most accurate and repeatable measurement.
@@hkrifleworks thanks for the answer.
So its the same but the tip can have more factory error than the ogive "distance".
Therefore you get better results measuring ogives and not tips. Did I got it?
Thanks again
I have a custom built 28 Nosler and I’m running 28 Nosler Brass. I did this method and the neck of the brass is making just enough contact with the neck chamber. It’s not letting the bolt “free fall” so I have to apply a very small amount of pressure to get the bolt knob down. Other than trimming my necks, is there any other way to remedy this? I anneal and resize after every firing so every case is consistent. Thanks.
Btw I did this with just a piece of brass prior to seating a bullet.
If the neck is the contact point, I’d make sure your brass is trimmed to the correct length and potentially turned if needed depending on your chamber and neck thickness. Any updates since your original comment? (Sorry for the lengthy reply)
What stock is that
Grayboe Ridgeback. Highly recommend it for the price and availability
Which action is that? I don't know if you mentioned it. I have a couple of Bighorn TL3s and love the control feed.
That's how I used to do it...then I got a Terminus Zeus action and just pull the barrel and stick a loaded round in it and seat it until it pulls out with very little effort.
Tan one is a Stiller and black one is by APR. Agreed on the TL3. Have been eyeing a Terminus for while. Absolutely amazing actions
20 different answers doesn’t matter! Truth is, it’s just doesn’t have to be that precise. As long as your not sticking the bullet in the lands far enough to pull it out of the case. It’s only a starting point. Suppose you get the exact measurement. Now suppose I get a measurement that’s +/- .005-.010 different from yours. We both then subtract .020 as a starting point. So who cares whether I’m starting +/- 5 or 10 thousandths different than yours? No one should because it’s only a starting point. What he’s doing is not wrong, it’s just way over kill for something doesn’t need to be that precise! This is a much quicker, easier way. ruclips.net/video/a7vjgEgnhHk/видео.html