How to replace a Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 wheel bearing. 4th and 3rd gen. Today's Jeep is a 2011.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 5 фев 2025
- On this episode of 3Day Weekend, we are going to replace the wheel bearing in this 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee. It started making a pretty steady "whirling" or "grinding" noise, and that typically means a wheel bearing. This one was getting so bad, it could be felt through the steering wheel.
Overall, this is not a complicated job. There are only a few bolts and a nut to remove. The problem is that they can all be pretty stubborn to remove, and the hubs like to freeze into the hub carrier, especially if you live in the rust belt. I had to call in for reinforcements to get a special tool which allowed me to get the leverage I needed to get the old hub off.
You'll see me refer to this special tool. It is called a "Hub Removal Tool", and is available on Amazon. The exact one that I used can be found at the following link, but if you look around, you can find some that are slightly cheaper than this one.
www.amazon.com...
The Jeep used in today's video is a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 with the 3.6L V6 engine, but it is exactly the same procedure for Jeeps equipped with the 5.7L V8 Hemi. It is also the exact same procedure for the 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, and 2022 model years. That is a lot of model years! Believe it or not, the same procedure for the 3rd generation Jeep GC as well, which includes 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2010 model years.
Thank you so much for watching. I really appreciate every viewer and every subscriber. If this video helped you out, consider clicking the "super thanks" button. That really helps me out quite a bit. Enjoy!
Another good way to get the hub off is to knock out a stud or 2. Put a nut on the inside of the hub run a bolt through and into the knuckle pressing it off.
Great suggestion! Probably less violent that hitting that attachment with a sledge hammer! Thanks for watching!
Do most hubs come with holes in them already?
@@daveyt4802 they come with wheel studs in them
Rental tool for hub removal didnt provide enough clearance for mounting. Used 5 lb hammer and cold chisel to separate the hub. I like the big yellow attachment.
As do I! I wish there was an easier way to get these hubs off of there! Thanks for watching!
Another tip: when cranking on or off nuts, use gravity to push DOWN. DON'T F up your back by pushing up.
Good tip! Sometimes that can be managed. Other times, there's no other way to do it. It's weird in a video to turn with my back toward the camera. Went to the side and pushed it up. That big of a pipe though, not too much pressure! Thanks for watching and for your comments!
Great video, except you failed to state a few important steps and removal tricks. I just finished changing out the right front hub on my 2015 JGC Laredo. You need to purchase a NEW compression Nut. Use a 32mm or 1 1/4" deep 6-point socket to loosen the compression Nut. You need to completely scrape and clean the rust from the cleaned round mounting surfaces and apply a thin film of (brake) grease to both mating surfaces to help the mating process when equally tightening the three hub bolts. Install the NEW compression Nut on the center spindle, and finally torque the NEW nut to (what my dealer stated my 2015 was) 229 foot/pounds when the tire is safely back on the ground.
I needed to pound-out three wheel studs in a Y-configuration to use the three bolt press-out method to remove my hub. You need 3", full thread, grade 5 or 8, 1/2" bolts, six nuts, and three washers to create a press to turn the nuts to push-out the hub assembly. Other RUclips videos show this 3-bolt press-out method. The trick is to rotate the hub to configure each removed wheel stud hole aligned with a flat spot against the backing plate. You need to install the bolt through a wheel stud hole, add a washer and two nuts to the bolts. With one nut flush with the end of the bolt so it is pressing on the backing plate so the edge of the nut (on the end of the bolt) is pressing on the backing plate such that the edge of nut is pressing against the edge of the mounting surface on the backside of the backing plate. Slowly and carefully hold the bolt with one wrench as you turn the outward middle nut against the washer, turning each nut equally and slowly to outward press the hub away from the hub mounting surface. Also, spray WD-40 or PB-Blaster in the three holes and along the edge of the mating surface. And, bang with a hammer and a long brass drift pin to help break the frozen rusted mating connection.
Thanks for the pointers and for watching!
Hi! I would like to know if a bad wheel bearing can cause scraping to the inside of the wheel?
If it is REALLY BAD, yes, it could allow the caliper or ball joints to make contact with the wheel. If it is that bad, you should be able to jack up the wheel so it is just off the ground, and you'll be able to rock it it up/down or in/out by hand. Again, that would be a really bad bearing, and I would not drive it like that. It could damage your caliper, axle, or ball joints, or worse, come off the vehicle completely!
Would you mind listing the tool sizes used? Or if there any uncommon/specialized tools I should buy before starting? Don’t want surprises. 😅
Also, amazing video. Thank you 🙏 for making it.
I don't remember all the sizes off-hand, but nothing was out of the ordinary. The only special tool was that yellow bar that bolts on so you can hit it with a sledge. If I were going to tackle a bearing job on this type of vehicle, I would definitely want that bar available!
Glad the video helped. Thank you so much for watching!
I have a 2011 with 252k miles. Just spent a grand 2 years ago for wheel bearings and they failed again. Noisy at straight speeds.
Wow, quarter million miles! Nicely done! 2 years seems short. I wonder if the replacement brand that was put in aren't as good as the OEM.
Work order did not say. $200 each though. I may get MOOG this time. $75 at rock auto each.
That definitely doesn't seem bad. I think I'll try my hand at it before paying $500+ that I've been quoted.
No, not terrible... as long as it comes out of there! Best of luck to you! Thanks for watching!
I find it troubling that you listed the torque specs but you wouldn't use a torque wrench.
I would always recommend using a torque wrench. With experience (tightening by hand/tool then checking with a torque wrench), a sense of torque can be developed over time, especially with larger bolts. However, with critical components, like rebuilding engines, transmissions, differentials, or even lug nuts, I always use a torque wrench. Thanks for watching, and for calling me out!
@@3DayWeekend Anybody who claims that you could get a precise measurement of torque using vibrating impact wrenches is lying.
@@3DayWeekend "With experience (tightening by hand/tool then checking with a torque wrench), a sense of torque can be developed over time, especially with larger bolts."
I don't believe that garbage for a second, That's just a cop-out to be lazy.
@@gregsmith332😂😂 imagine thinking a torque wrench is critical when installing a hub assembly. You obviously don't work on cars much if you need a torque wrench to install a huh.
@@Ada-zn3pw Improper torque will cause premature wheel bearing failure. You're just being lazy.
These bearings are supposed to last the life of the vehicle. I'd like to know why they fail.
Not necessarily. They are a "wear" item. Most do last the life of the vehicle, but definitely not all. Depends on the age, mileage, and driving conditions I suppose. This was the 2nd bearing failure in this particular Jeep. Now both of the front bearings are new. I've seen/replaced bearings on all manufacturers: Ford, Subaru, Chevy, Hyundai, Ram, Kia, Toyota... maybe more I can't remember. No rhyme or reason to it - one will just go bad. One thing in common though - none are easy to replace!
Rental tool for hub removal didnt provide enough clearance for mounting. Used 5 lb hammer and cold chisel to separate the hub. I like the big yellow attachment.
As do I! I wish there was an easier way to get these hubs off of there! Thanks for watching!