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It's really not that bad as long as the head isn't cracked. The parts (seals/gaskets/bolts) can be found as a kit for around $100. The machine shop will probably be the most expensive part, but absolutely required to deck the head and verify it isn't cracked. Nothing worse than having to do the job a second time... Best of luck to you!

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Ty bro

Thanks! A lot of projects have been done in that garage for sure!

Haha even better!

Thanks! I didn't work on it straight through, but if I were to estimate, I'd say maybe 6 hours. Much less if you have the plugs for the rear speakers already. The sub was definitely the hardest part!

Happy to help! I'm glad you found it useful. Thank you for watching!

In the end, I ended up mounting it on the side of the tunnel in the passenger foot well. Right in the corner where the floor, tunnel, and vertical edge below the seat meet. It was a bit of a stretch, but it fit.

No problem. Thank you so much for watching!

Interesting.... Perhaps they vary by year or aftermarket service manuals do it slightly different. Either way, this car is still out there running strong a few years later! Best of luck to you! Hopefully you're able to get yours back on the road soon! Thanks for watching!

@3DayWeekend yep, got it going. Still have to put the splash shields on and need to replace one of the oil lines that developed a drip, but my daughter has drove it to work all week...

Yes, it felt like a lot! I verified it in the 2022 service manual just to be safe, but that's definitely the spec! So far so good though. No issues and the transmission is still quiet. Thanks for watching!

It appears to have just worked that nut loose. Perhaps it wasn't tightened all the way from the factory, or maybe someone took it apart before we got it and didn't torque it down properly. Since the latest fix, it hasn't come loose so I think we're good now!

I used the AlfaOBD app paired to an OBDLinkMX+ to read the ABS module codes, which told me which sensor it was. Any repair shop or Autozone should have a reader that can pull codes from the ABS module. Hope that helps!

Thanks! I've come a long way over time. I used to do background music, but now I tend to do short clips between explanations. Seems to work well that way. Thank you for watching!

It had approximately 250 hours on it at this point. Kind-of low for a rebuild, but it had been swamped, which caused all sorts of issues. Still running great though now!

Please direct all business inquiries to the channel email, found on our "about" page. Thanks!

@@3DayWeekend OK! Thank you. Please check!

Oh, shoot! We just got back from Majestic Trails, and I'll be camping at a non-riding campground labor day weekend. I would have enjoyed meeting! I hope you have a great time at Tall Pines! It is our favorite local riding park. I'm glad you found the videos helpful! The track is going to take a long time... I hope have it ridable by the end of fall, but progress has been slow. Probably should have made it smaller to start then grow it over time! Perhaps our paths will cross in the future! Look me up on Facebook messenger if you want to chat. Enjoy your trip!

Yes, first cylinder to TDC, install the pin. The stroke (compression vs exhaust) is set by the position of the cams. As I show later in the video, I had the cams upside down so they were on the wrong stroke. Before installing the head, you can put the timing plate on the right side of the cams first to ensure the head is on the right stroke. It'll save a little time. It's not the end of the world if you don't though. I purposely had it backwards in the video to show how to fix it. 50/50 chance of it being right. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

Yes, that is correct. I mostly work on MOPAR and didn't recognize them as the push-style when I was working on this one. My bad! Thanks for keeping me honest!

My portable air tank is tiny! I think it would have enough air to blow out a single feather! haha

If it is like the ACE or the PRO, the rear diff doesn't have anything in between. It's a straight shot so if you get one out, you can drive the other out with a hammer. The seals are on the outside of the splines (7:13) with nothing inside the splined tube. The front diff, however, has both sides isolated so the axles don't meet in the middle like they do on the rear. The seals are still on the outside though. There shouldn't be any seals inside the cups though. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I've used it quite a bit since and the temp gauge sits at the low end of green now. I am very much relieved!

Yes, if the pin doesn't go directly through the hole, it will pull out, release the tensioner, and parts will fly everywhere! Definitely worth having a second person for that part to help guide it out.

That's interesting... I'm not sure why exactly. Perhaps a bent crank or a bad bearing? Hopefully you're able to find the issue and get it fixed!

@@3DayWeekend yes I believe I have found the issue the one way bearing on the flywheel was locking up and the gear would seize right to it causing lock up I got it free and tryed again thinking maybe just dirt worked ok put it back in and tryed to start locked together again should have it running Monday hopefully thank you for the reply

This one is definitely my favorite machine by far!

In the end, it was the one-way bearing assembly.

Oh yes, the cooling systems in these cars are terrible. I haven't seen a water pump on this engine fail in such a way that it no longer moves the water. Usually they just leak. However, a stuck closed thermostat can absolutely be the culprit. You'd think a new one would be good, but it is possible to get a bad/stuck one. My local salvage yard has plenty of these cars in it and the water pump is pretty easy to take out, so if I were in your position, I'd run down there and pick one up just for testing purposes. Sounds like you're on the right track. Hopefully you get it up and running again soon! Thanks for watching!

Thanks! It's really nice to have the trailer brakes back to 100% again. I didn't realize just how bad they were!

Oh, you're definitely not alone! This thing loves to leak! It has been good up front since this overhaul, but this year I had a leak in the back that I had to fix. Now it looks like the engine main seal is leaking and my pump look a little wet, so I'll probably pull that out over the winter. It is high maintenance, but such a useful machine that I use all the time! No regrets getting it. It's amazing what it can do! Best of luck to you on finding the new leak. Hopefully it's not deep in the bottom! Those are the worst.... Thanks for watching!

@@3DayWeekend Thanks for a reply. I didn't expect it. One more thought. I noted that it's the smaller diameter hoses that are mostly leaking. There are more of them, but they seem the be the problem. Could it be that Bobcat received a defective spool of hose from China? I have had machines most of my life and i"m now 70. I've changed more hoses on this one machine than on every piece of equipment I have ever owned put together. BY FAR. I have never changed a hose on my 2006 Terrex Backhoe. I know this can't be proven but it doesn't make sence that this one machine would have such a problem.

@@nickbruno2537 Definitely possible.... I was leaning toward the hoses were just so old, and they all started failing at around the same time. This particular machine was made in the late 90's, so those hoses were pretty aged. Perhaps they were of a lower quality, but they lasted 25+ years so I guess I can't complain!

I only do this with the side by sides and ATVs. There is an ongoing debate on whether this helps or not, and my opinion is that it depends on the type of riding you do. Our machines go through semi-deep mud and standing water every time we drive them. Regular greasing prevents the water and mud from getting into the bearings. Based on experiments I have done over the years (greasing only the left side bearings, not the right or vice-versa), I can get thousands of miles out of regularly greased bearings, and only hundreds of miles from non-greased ones. I know of others that primarily ride dry dirt roads and they get thousands of miles out of their bearings with no grease. Again, it all depends on the riding you do. Hope that helps clear things up! Thanks for watching!

$22?!? I got robbed! haha Here's hoping it holds up! If I weren't on a trip so far away from home, I probably would have tried a cheaper option as well. The good news is my new one is still holding up! Hopefully yours does the same!

@@3DayWeekend Yup, agreed

Awesome! Glad you found it helpful. I hope you enjoy the RC upgrade as much as I do! Thanks for watching!

Hey there! I can typically find them online and download them for free. Search for "2014 rzr 800 service manual pdf" and you'll typically get some results. I like the PDF version so I can save them on my shop computer. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching!

Fingers crossed!

Best of luck to you! Hopefully all goes well!

To-may-toe, to-mah-toe. Lol You're right, though. Around here we've always said it this way, but I researched the origin of the word and it comes from "Stationary" and "Rotor". I concede and will try to do better! :-)

Yes, overheating is the typical cause of a failing head gasket in this engine. Coolant in the combustion chamber is a tell-tale sign of a bad head gasket. Hopefully you're able to get it up and running again!

Thanks!

It is possible that's all you need, if your describing the sound of the ABS and/or Traction Control System activating. If a sensor is faulty, it can sometimes make the computer think a wheel is going the wrong speed, and the ABS/TCS will attempt to slow the other wheels.

No, no need for that. The gasket it came with is sufficient.

Oh, sorry to hear that! We are really looking forward to the track, but it is going to take a long time to get it ready. At this point I'm hoping to have at least the track driveable in the fall, but we'll see how it goes. Had issues with the dozer, and now it's going to rain for the next 3 days. Delays, delays! I'll be back out there as soon as the weather clears though!

Always check your manual to confirm. It will say in the section labelled "Oil Capacity". You can use the index in the back to find it quickly. The Charger we show in this video took 7 quarts.

There are a couple things you could check - first would be your shifter linkage. Sometimes the shifters will develop some play and you'll be unable to shift it properly. I would take the shifter assembly apart and isolate the shifter linkage, then move it by hand. If you can shift through the gears, you'll just need to work on the shifter. If it still doesn't shift, there could be a problem with the transmission. Hopefully it's just your shifter!

@@3DayWeekend Thank you for that, did take off the shifter "rod" cover to make sure the gear teeth are properly lined up with the dots...., I 'do" notice The shift handle up front section does have a little play in the shaft that goes back to the two gears under the cover, is that what you mean?

Thanks for the feedback! It has been a few years since I released that video and have made a lot of changes on other videos based on feedback such as this. I very rarely use music anymore, and if I do, the volume is much lower. Thanks again!