Good idea to pull the plug first. If it doesn't come off you have to get a cover that his a fill port integrated. Would stink to get the cover painted and back on only to find out you have to do the job again. Thanks for the informative video.
I have the same 8.5 diff in my Tahoe, the axle seals were leaking, it was only half full of oil. There was a bunch of burnt oil deposits in the carrier. I added 8-oz Marvels oil and 2-qts of cheap gear oil, ran the truck 1500 miles and drained it. Pulled the axles, replaced seals and all the black crud was gone. Refilled it with high quality synthetic gear oil for extended service... Great Demonstration of a neglected service
I followed your procedure and no leaks so far without using gasket sealer. I did torque to 30 ft lbs. but in stages by first torquing to 25 ft. lbs. then 30 ft. lbs. in a star pattern. Before it had been leaking badly and I discovered one of the bolts was just finger tight. Strange as it looked like it had the factory gasket since new. I was also pleased to see hardly any metal particles on the magnet and like new gears after 206K miles. Thanks for posting.
The small diff (1500) takes 2.2 qts and the heavy ones are 3-4 qts or more depending on the weight rating. I recommend a synthetic oil because it lasts longer and you don't have to mess with it as often.
Great video. Easy process, but well done. Good video quality, clean audio, well spoken, and just enough footage to get the point without a lot of extra to sit through.
I just did my diff in my 92 k5 blazer with royal purple max gear and what a difference, has the lsd additive in it, my locking diff works, got rid of a small clunk, and it requires a LOT less throttle to keep it moving making my mpg soar 3 miles per gallon, WHAT A LUBE!!!
not really, just means it will take longer. Most painless way is to install a new fill hole on the pan by drilling a hole and welding on a bung ( with pan removed, obviously ). Or, if you have a 3/4 or 1 ton with full floating axles, you can just slide out the axle shaft and pour the oil in through the axle tube. Just not changing the oil because you can't get the filler plug off is a bad idea especially if it is limited slip, 20 year old oil wont do the clutch packs any good. I hope to God you're not a mechanic, I can totally see you not changing the oil and saying you did just to get ahead on the flat rate. This is why I do all the work my self, so it gets done right.
I just did this job, but my fill plug was screwed up, so that it wouldn't accept the 3/8 driver. I wound up drilling a hole in it, then inserting a straight flute screw extractor. The plug was so tight, that even after soaks in PB Blaster, and crazy hot MAPP gas applications, then actually using a jack under a cresent wrench on the extractor! I had to repeat this process 3 times, then finally got the plug to crack free. Unbelievable!
@infringinator I did not jack it up. The picture on the end is a rear shot of the truck with the silver cover. By THAT point, I was working on brakes....notice the lack of tires too. I prefer to do brake work with the rear end in the air.
Nice job you did on that rear differential cover on your pickup & spray painted it.. yours is still in pretty good shape! Mine is all rusty (alot of rust buildup) & has a pin size hole I can see dripping out of my 93 Chevy suburban k2500. Getting a new one on eBay..
Ohh thats that that small dent on the diffcover is for, for the magnent. i never taken my diff cover off but i painted it and filled in the dent thinking the previous owner back into a rock or something, lol nice video! i love how you painted it. i love painting rusty things on my 94
@sonofpikaia Seems high. Most rear ends don't see service for at least 100,000 miles, so I'm surprised anything strange happened. However if the level got low, you could see damage. If your rear gear is worn, you'll need to rebuild or replace it.
@kizzle1234656 Only on limited slip rear ends. This rear end is open. I think it was 3 quarts? If I don't mention it in the video, I have forgotten, check your owners manual.
Newer ones perhaps, older ones, including S-10s, they have a limited slip. I believe the service for a locking rear is the same, however there may be a TSB about using additive, so you'll have to consult a dealer on newer trucks.
@@Turbo231 he hee its good to> its a old hot rod trick. to cut down friction and wear . Make the rear end runs cooler and faster. i have use it for rear end oil every since> Drain it and put STP oil treatment in all of my vehicles rear ends i've been running it for decades> even got it in my 2000 silverado pickup day it was new
@miguelconde8 Same procedure for every GM RWD car...and the oil should be listed in your owners manual...probably a 80-90W. If you have a limited slip rear, you will need an additive for that.
@miguelconde8 It is a special lubricant...helps the clutches in the rear...but its only required if you have a limited slip rear end (RPO G80). I get mine from a GM dealer, it's cheap, but I do believe there are rear end oils that have it already in, you'd have to do some digging for that.
@Turbo231 thats true..I'll let you know if I do my own rear diff. I think I'll at least have them do the front diff and transfer case...my problem is having neighbors not wanting me to do work on my vehicle in the parking lot lol
@infringinator Depends on how bad the leak is and your mechanical ablity. I would totally do it myself, its not that large of a project...however, my truck is 2wd so not an issue for me.
@infringinator You certainly shouldn't have to do any welding for exhaust work. I will be changing a muffler on my Caprice this spring, should show the basics to exhaust part replacements.
i have a 01 silverado 4.3 2wd with 10 bolt. pulled the cover and it looks exactly like yours. my truck has the g80 code, but its not the eaton ls diff. what type of diff is it and what does GM call it? positraction, posi lock, limited slip... it will leave 2 equal marks in the dirt when it hooks up.
I have always taken the fill plug off first. incase its seized and wont back out after you empty it then your fudged.. always liked Toyota for having drain and fill holes in the rear end.
I've found that Krylon chrome paint doesn't last at all, but I think it's metal flakes in the paint rusting. I've had good results coating it with clear coat once it dries tho.
@Turbo231 thanks! What kind of addative? Im not the brightest, but I do plan on keeping my truck up and running. it has 250.000 miles so I really want to get down and fix minor problems that will eventually lead to it breaking down. thanks again!
Any idea what GM was thinking when they put the radiator cap on at an angle and put metal in the way so you can only add about 3 ounces of coolant at a time? Thank you for the video. Wasn't sure where to add the fluid, found that bolt you mentioned though
Well, often the easiest way is to jack up the rear end and if you put it in park or in gear, if you can freely turn one wheel and the other turns backwards, its a open diff. Also look for G80 in your RPO codes, that for a posi rear end.
The g80 on trucks is a full locker not posi.. it's Eaton MLocker (mechanical locker) and engages a full lock when a rpm difference is detected between the 2 rear tires.. it is not a limited slip.. Eaton has said to not use LS additive.
No problem.. there's a big debate depending on where you look online.. so here is the response straight from the manufacturer: Both synthetic and mineral based are sufficient. Although the G80 uses clutches, it is a full locker. If you use a friction additive this can reduce torque / load carrying capacity and is not recommended. As far as oil weight, please use the specified oil weight and quantity in your vehicles owner's manual. Eaton has no oil brand recommendation. Thanks, -Eaton Performance You can also reference PIP4054D, in particular: Important: Installing any friction modifier causes the clutch pack in the locking differential to slip and miss engagement. A fluid flush can often remove debris that is a contributor to clutch chatter. Adding friction modifier additive can cause a loss of locking differential functionality.
@Turbo231 Yup. They will chatter w/o the additive. it. My LT1 Impala sure did until I added a little more! One day maybe It will have a detroit true track instead of the weak auburn. I want a true track for my truck too. The gov lockers explode with heavy use.
@Turbo231 I was looking under mine today but I have a big spare tire in the way...not sure if I should do it myself or pay the mechanic $85 to change the front/rear and transfer case
@infringinator Yes, I had to drop the spare on mine as well. Of course, it makes for a good time to service the spare...make sure it has enough air pressure and wash it.
I have a leak in my front differential on the right hand side...dealer wants close to $500 to replace the seal...Is it easy to do myself? They're saying 5 hours of labor!
where could i find the gasket @. my rear differantal has like a rubber type gastet but i can see at one piont it was a liquid that dried to feel like a rubber so i was wondering where i could find a actual rubber one. would my local autozone have it? i have a 1999 grand marqius
Is it going to last? Not really, and it hasn't. A rust converter or at least a primer. Technically, if you sand blasted, primed, painted, you'd have a chance, but just putting paint on something will look good for a year or two.
@Turbo231 Nope Not on a GM. My own vehicles were good. Ive seen plow trucks and such that had pretty crispy rear ends. Its just a tip I wanted to share because they could seize up. The plugs in the cover or in the housing on some vehicles seem to have a worse rusting problem than in the actual axle housing. Also All Chevy trucks had Gov lockers never a posi. They don't need additive. I just run a regular oil in mine w/ a gov locker (Synthetic is required on the newer trucks 99 current ) :)
Note--the Third Member Housing generally is the Nastiest Place on the Truck--Need to Clean Housing before Opening Up as some of this Crud could Fall into Gear Area....
Spray brake cleaner in the diff housing? not sure you would want to mix such a solvent with oil type additives. Even when cleaner dries up it still remains caked up on the surface.
Great video.....but....I have a 1996 Chevy Z71 4 X 4 ... .....and there does not seem to be any filler hole on the casing . The casing is clean , so it is not just hard to see because it is full of road dirt/grease . I watched the video to see where you filled yours , but your has the plug in the usual spot . Thoughts ?
Should be there somewhere, may have to dig on the internet for a variant, just need to see where your owner's manual says to check the level of the oil in the rear differential...since that's your fill hole too.
@Turbo231 yeah my silverado is 4x4...you did so well with the fluid change I did it myself but I dont have any jacks or lifts so I may just have to go to the mechanic and spend a few hundred...do you have any videos on exhaust work? My pipes are getting rusty and I'll need to replace them but I saw there are methods where you dont have to do any welding.
So i have to change out the rear diff. gasket and the axle seals on my 2010 GMC Sierra, is it pretty much the same way and how long does it usually take?
@Evilkris83 How badly can't you get the cap off? Its the square destroyed or you can't turn it. If you still have a means to take it off, get some PB Blaster on it...that will loosen it up. Otherwise, you might have to install your own plug on the lid...and while you are at it, put in a drain plug too...make future changes easy as pie.
Easiest way is to check the RPO code in the glove box for code G80. Otherwise give her a spin, a posi won’t be very free to turn if the truck is in park.
When you remove the cover it drains most of the fluid out? You don't have to pump the old stuff out? In another person's video he had to pump stuff in. You don't need to do that?
Anyone ever try welding the diff on these trucks? I have made a bush buggy out of one just like that, but I'm trying to find a cheaper fix than air lockers... Thoughts? Oh its on 38 inch super swamppers so lots of torque as well...
not a good idea for a buggy with big tires you can mess up the gears or locker if u have one...then you cant fix it cause u welded it...just do it right and spend more $
I have an olds delta 88 from 1978. in the owners manual it says every 7500 milles the differential oil has to be changed. but many people say thats bull sh***. The las half year when i but in reverse it gives a hard shok, probebly loose differtial. now i'm gonna change my oil (probebly to late) but its imposibble the say to buy a compleet new rear axle for this model car. what the hell should i do? Gr. from the netherlands.
@turbo321 Nah my friend brought some PB Blaster over last night. The square was fine I just couldn't get if to turn. I did use a jack to help with the hard part after the PB Blaster.
To support this and other content on my channel without a subscription, feel free to buy me a coffee at: www.buymeacoffee.com/turbo231
Short and to the point and generic enough to apply to many different applications: exactly my type of learning video. Thanks for this!
Good idea to pull the plug first. If it doesn't come off you have to get a cover that his a fill port integrated. Would stink to get the cover painted and back on only to find out you have to do the job again. Thanks for the informative video.
I have the same 8.5 diff in my Tahoe, the axle seals were leaking, it was only half full of oil. There was a bunch of burnt oil deposits in the carrier. I added 8-oz Marvels oil and 2-qts of cheap gear oil, ran the truck 1500 miles and drained it. Pulled the axles, replaced seals and all the black crud was gone. Refilled it with high quality synthetic gear oil for extended service... Great Demonstration of a neglected service
How much did it take to fill
Silicone RTV glue the gasket to the cover and then apply more to the other side of the gasket. Or it will leak later. Good video.
I followed your procedure and no leaks so far without using gasket sealer. I did torque to 30 ft lbs. but in stages by first torquing to 25 ft. lbs. then 30 ft. lbs. in a star pattern. Before it had been leaking badly and I discovered one of the bolts was just finger tight. Strange as it looked like it had the factory gasket since new. I was also pleased to see hardly any metal particles on the magnet and like new gears after 206K miles. Thanks for posting.
Very glad its not leaking. Mine hasn't changed since I've done the video and its all still good.
The small diff (1500) takes 2.2 qts and the heavy ones are 3-4 qts or more depending on the weight rating. I recommend a synthetic oil because it lasts longer and you don't have to mess with it as often.
What type of oil should i use for chevy 98 k1500 .?? 275000 milles
80W90??
Great video. Easy process, but well done. Good video quality, clean audio, well spoken, and just enough footage to get the point without a lot of extra to sit through.
I just did my diff in my 92 k5 blazer with royal purple max gear and what a difference, has the lsd additive in it, my locking diff works, got rid of a small clunk, and it requires a LOT less throttle to keep it moving making my mpg soar 3 miles per gallon, WHAT A LUBE!!!
regular gear oil with lucas oil additive works wonders to
Yeah thanks for having this video! They're some of us who find this Very Helpful
Thanks for posting you are saving people money,,not all heroes wear capes,,,you my friend are indeed a hero !
Nicely done tutorial. My 85 GMC Siera is due up for a change, and this makes it look much less intimidating.
Thanks turbo I will be doing this to my 03 Silverado this weekend. Great instructions
You should always crack the fill plug open first, if take the cover off and drain your oil, and can't remove the fill plug, your screwed.
not really, just means it will take longer. Most painless way is to install a new fill hole on the pan by drilling a hole and welding on a bung ( with pan removed, obviously ). Or, if you have a 3/4 or 1 ton with full floating axles, you can just slide out the axle shaft and pour the oil in through the axle tube. Just not changing the oil because you can't get the filler plug off is a bad idea especially if it is limited slip, 20 year old oil wont do the clutch packs any good. I hope to God you're not a mechanic, I can totally see you not changing the oil and saying you did just to get ahead on the flat rate. This is why I do all the work my self, so it gets done right.
Your what is screwed?
I had no issue without cracking the filler nut, did need a dead blow hammer and screwdriver to get through the goop
I just did this job, but my fill plug was screwed up, so that it wouldn't accept the 3/8 driver. I wound up drilling a hole in it, then inserting a straight flute screw extractor. The plug was so tight, that even after soaks in PB Blaster, and crazy hot MAPP gas applications, then actually using a jack under a cresent wrench on the extractor! I had to repeat this process 3 times, then finally got the plug to crack free. Unbelievable!
That’s why you always pull the fill plug first! So if it won’t pull you can go to the store and get parts before you disable your vehicle.
@infringinator I did not jack it up. The picture on the end is a rear shot of the truck with the silver cover. By THAT point, I was working on brakes....notice the lack of tires too. I prefer to do brake work with the rear end in the air.
Nice job you did on that rear differential cover on your pickup & spray painted it.. yours is still in pretty good shape! Mine is all rusty (alot of rust buildup) & has a pin size hole I can see dripping out of my 93 Chevy suburban k2500. Getting a new one on eBay..
Thanks. I always wondered how you fill them. Have an 89 chevy 1500. I think this is my next project before winter.
Curious if you've had any drips at all just using gasket with no rtv? I'd like to think that gasket alone is good enough...
It’s been fine.
This video was really helpful cuz I've been having problems with my rear differential case
Ohh thats that that small dent on the diffcover is for, for the magnent. i never taken my diff cover off but i painted it and filled in the dent thinking the previous owner back into a rock or something, lol nice video! i love how you painted it. i love painting rusty things on my 94
Really good video. No fluff. Just straight to it.
Thanks.
@imghaniff Yeah...it will be in the owners manual or any basic repair manual.
@sonofpikaia Seems high. Most rear ends don't see service for at least 100,000 miles, so I'm surprised anything strange happened. However if the level got low, you could see damage. If your rear gear is worn, you'll need to rebuild or replace it.
@kizzle1234656 Only on limited slip rear ends. This rear end is open. I think it was 3 quarts? If I don't mention it in the video, I have forgotten, check your owners manual.
Newer ones perhaps, older ones, including S-10s, they have a limited slip. I believe the service for a locking rear is the same, however there may be a TSB about using additive, so you'll have to consult a dealer on newer trucks.
Thank you much for your help, glad I did mine today, it was down a pint.
Nice touch with the paint. I'm sure there's some high heat stuff you could use as well. Thank you.
Very cool video and very informative. I have a 1989 GMC Suburban and this video helped out!
I don't know if I would use simple green as a cleaner, but I do use brake cleaner on the rear end sense it doesn't leave a residue
@Turbo231 I had the muffler replaced but will soon need to replace the pipes from the muffler to the tips..I'll look forward to your video sir!
I Use STP oil treatment in the rear end. Have to heat it up to get it in
That sounds crazy. Just got some Lucas oil, says you can use it straight as rear end oil.
@@Turbo231 he hee its good to> its a old hot rod trick. to cut down friction and wear . Make the rear end runs cooler and faster. i have use it for rear end oil every since> Drain it and put STP oil treatment in all of my vehicles rear ends i've been running it for decades> even got it in my 2000 silverado pickup day it was new
I'am Your Newest Subscriber Great Videos . The Gear Oil In My 1988 G20 Chevy Van Hasen't Been Changed In @0 Years
Yikes, good deal.
@miguelconde8 Same procedure for every GM RWD car...and the oil should be listed in your owners manual...probably a 80-90W. If you have a limited slip rear, you will need an additive for that.
@miguelconde8 It is a special lubricant...helps the clutches in the rear...but its only required if you have a limited slip rear end (RPO G80). I get mine from a GM dealer, it's cheap, but I do believe there are rear end oils that have it already in, you'd have to do some digging for that.
@Turbo231 thats true..I'll let you know if I do my own rear diff. I think I'll at least have them do the front diff and transfer case...my problem is having neighbors not wanting me to do work on my vehicle in the parking lot lol
@koonbunny1011 Yup...autozone, I personally use Napa parts, they tend to have an exhaustive catalog of stuff.
@infringinator Depends on how bad the leak is and your mechanical ablity. I would totally do it myself, its not that large of a project...however, my truck is 2wd so not an issue for me.
How much of the 80w/90 s or 2 or 3 ?? it seemed like a lot came out with the draining process
@infringinator You certainly shouldn't have to do any welding for exhaust work. I will be changing a muffler on my Caprice this spring, should show the basics to exhaust part replacements.
Thank you for this awesome video brother !!! 😎
how many things of oil you need for this I need to know as I going to do mine on a 88 c2500
i have a 01 silverado 4.3 2wd with 10 bolt. pulled the cover and it looks exactly like yours. my truck has the g80 code, but its not the eaton ls diff. what type of diff is it and what does GM call it? positraction, posi lock, limited slip... it will leave 2 equal marks in the dirt when it hooks up.
Thank you this video helped me out along the way
gasket leaks on mine. gonna try again with rtv
MrFuchew sounds like a plan, you can use both.
I have always taken the fill plug off first. incase its seized and wont back out after you empty it then your fudged.. always liked Toyota for having drain and fill holes in the rear end.
I've found that Krylon chrome paint doesn't last at all, but I think it's metal flakes in the paint rusting. I've had good results coating it with clear coat once it dries tho.
krylon paint is garbage......I painted my s10s rear window and it was cracking and falling off in a matter of months
@Turbo231 thanks! What kind of addative? Im not the brightest, but I do plan on keeping my truck up and running. it has 250.000 miles so I really want to get down and fix minor problems that will eventually lead to it breaking down. thanks again!
THX man for the video! No I'm not sure if I got it, but what's the size of the drain plug squared socket? Because I need to buy the right tip...
Any idea what GM was thinking when they put the radiator cap on at an angle and put metal in the way so you can only add about 3 ounces of coolant at a time? Thank you for the video. Wasn't sure where to add the fluid, found that bolt you mentioned though
How do you tell if posi or non posi.Thank you for sharing I need my 97 Silverado ext cab done.Maryland showing a little ❤
Well, often the easiest way is to jack up the rear end and if you put it in park or in gear, if you can freely turn one wheel and the other turns backwards, its a open diff. Also look for G80 in your RPO codes, that for a posi rear end.
Thank you
The g80 on trucks is a full locker not posi.. it's Eaton MLocker (mechanical locker) and engages a full lock when a rpm difference is detected between the 2 rear tires.. it is not a limited slip.. Eaton has said to not use LS additive.
@@805BeachRecoveries I’m gonna have to disagree with you there, but double checked and I still know G80 is limited slip.
No problem.. there's a big debate depending on where you look online.. so here is the response straight from the manufacturer: Both synthetic and mineral based are sufficient. Although the G80 uses clutches, it is a full locker. If you use a friction additive this can reduce torque / load carrying capacity and is not recommended. As far as oil weight, please use the specified oil weight and quantity in your vehicles owner's manual. Eaton has no oil brand recommendation. Thanks, -Eaton Performance
You can also reference PIP4054D, in particular: Important: Installing any friction modifier causes the clutch pack in the locking differential to slip and miss engagement. A fluid flush can often remove debris that is a contributor to clutch chatter. Adding friction modifier additive can cause a loss of locking differential functionality.
@Turbo231 Yup. They will chatter w/o the additive. it. My LT1 Impala sure did until I added a little more! One day maybe It will have a detroit true track instead of the weak auburn. I want a true track for my truck too. The gov lockers explode with heavy use.
Don’t you want to break the fill plug free first - to make sure you can refill it after you have put the new gasket & cover on?
You could for sure, or even hit it with spray first. Really depends on if you think you can get it out. Most of the time it’s yes.
Yeah...its got some excessive wear, the unit may need a rebuild sooner then later. I would fill it back up with oil and hope for the best.
@MrConversionVans I've had mixed blessings with POR-15...better then paint no doubt.
Thanks for the Great video. I'm planning on doing this on my Sierra.
Remember PPE people, thanks for the vid.
So what do I do if I have drained the differential and I can't get the full plug out?
I’d work on getting the plug out. Otherwise you are stuck replacing the cover with a fill hole.
Do you not have to coat the new gasket in diff oil to help prevent leaks?
No, the gasket will do the sealing.
@Turbo231 I was looking under mine today but I have a big spare tire in the way...not sure if I should do it myself or pay the mechanic $85 to change the front/rear and transfer case
@infringinator Yes, I had to drop the spare on mine as well. Of course, it makes for a good time to service the spare...make sure it has enough air pressure and wash it.
Not quite...it's a gasket, they're designed to hold back fluids with or without adhesive.
After several years now just curious if it started leaking on you and how it’s held up without using the RTV on your gasket?
I check the level every spring, haven’t had any issues, it’s always the same.
@@Turbo231 glad to hear that. I’ll be doing the same that you did then! Thank you for the response.
I have a leak in my front differential on the right hand side...dealer wants close to $500 to replace the seal...Is it easy to do myself? They're saying 5 hours of labor!
where could i find the gasket @. my rear differantal has like a rubber type gastet but i can see at one piont it was a liquid that dried to feel like a rubber so i was wondering where i could find a actual rubber one. would my local autozone have it? i have a 1999 grand marqius
iv got a 96 blazer s10 4.3 and there was no wear/metal clippings
Is it going to last? Not really, and it hasn't. A rust converter or at least a primer. Technically, if you sand blasted, primed, painted, you'd have a chance, but just putting paint on something will look good for a year or two.
@Turbo231 Nope Not on a GM. My own vehicles were good. Ive seen plow trucks and such that had pretty crispy rear ends. Its just a tip I wanted to share because they could seize up. The plugs in the cover or in the housing on some vehicles seem to have a worse rusting problem than in the actual axle housing. Also All Chevy trucks had Gov lockers never a posi. They don't need additive. I just run a regular oil in mine w/ a gov locker (Synthetic is required on the newer trucks 99 current ) :)
would it be wise to clean the gears with brake cleaner or any type of evapotative cleaner?
Note--the Third Member Housing generally is the Nastiest Place on the Truck--Need to Clean Housing before Opening Up as some of this Crud could Fall into Gear Area....
@FearlessTrainerCole You don't have to but they are cheap and make it easy.
I'm leaking fluid from the differential so I'm assuming
the seal is the problem.
It's never good when you have a leak from your rear end
i just use rtv gasket cause iv had to change 4 rear gaskets never had a leak with rtv gasket
Spray brake cleaner in the diff housing? not sure you would want to mix such a solvent with oil type additives. Even when cleaner dries up it still remains caked up on the surface.
How many miles do you have to change it and how many miles ddoes ur truck have it's nice
No, I had a 1998 W/T and it had a locking differential (G80). Limited slip differentials were never put on those year trucks, only cars.
The trick is to not over torque it and use a little sealant on the gasket
Great video.....but....I have a 1996 Chevy Z71 4 X 4 ... .....and there does not seem to be any filler hole on the casing . The casing is clean , so it is not just hard to see because it is full of road dirt/grease . I watched the video to see where you filled yours , but your has the plug in the usual spot . Thoughts ?
Should be there somewhere, may have to dig on the internet for a variant, just need to see where your owner's manual says to check the level of the oil in the rear differential...since that's your fill hole too.
Tom Haskell I don't suppose you found where it's located on your truck did you? I am doing the same thing and currently running into the same problem.
+bigshanner located passenger side top. Look for vent line, it's couple inches below, couple inches to the side of drive shaft.
Dumbasses!
@Turbo231 yeah my silverado is 4x4...you did so well with the fluid change I did it myself but I dont have any jacks or lifts so I may just have to go to the mechanic and spend a few hundred...do you have any videos on exhaust work? My pipes are getting rusty and I'll need to replace them but I saw there are methods where you dont have to do any welding.
So i have to change out the rear diff. gasket and the axle seals on my 2010 GMC Sierra, is it pretty much the same way and how long does it usually take?
so you dont need to add a additive to the fluid?also how much fluid does it take to fill?
Isn't there a drain bolt/plug ?
No, fairly rare to find. None of my cars do.
Is there a tool I can use that can helpme measure the amount of torque I apply to each bolt? I would like to buy one when I do this fix myself.
@Evilkris83 How badly can't you get the cap off? Its the square destroyed or you can't turn it. If you still have a means to take it off, get some PB Blaster on it...that will loosen it up. Otherwise, you might have to install your own plug on the lid...and while you are at it, put in a drain plug too...make future changes easy as pie.
Can i use 75w-90 Synthetic? I have a 97 C1500. Gm calls for 80w-90 regular. I'd rather use the Synthetic but can't find 80w in Synthetic.
Old trucks get conventional oils 80w90 for open diffs...fluid has no lsd additives added that's what you want
@@crackerjack8115 thanks 👌
@@oBlackCoffee no problem. Good luck with the work
Any idea how I'd identify if it's a posi rear to know? Thanks
Easiest way is to check the RPO code in the glove box for code G80. Otherwise give her a spin, a posi won’t be very free to turn if the truck is in park.
When you remove the cover it drains most of the fluid out? You don't have to pump the old stuff out? In another person's video he had to pump stuff in. You don't need to do that?
It drains all of the fluid out. And no, you don’t need to pump it in, it only gets filled to the level of the hole.
I wonder how many quarts he used and what is the right gear oil?
Factory spec is 80w-90 and 2 is probably enough, although I always get 3.
so you dont need to add a additive to the fluid?
@Turbo231 how many miles should i change mine or how can i tell when i need to
Or how do you know whether you've applied the right amount of torque?
Why didn't you use a gasket sealer?
Thank you. I think I need to do mine.
It’s pretty easy.
Anyone ever try welding the diff on these trucks? I have made a bush buggy out of one just like that, but I'm trying to find a cheaper fix than air lockers... Thoughts? Oh its on 38 inch super swamppers so lots of torque as well...
not a good idea for a buggy with big tires you can mess up the gears or locker if u have one...then you cant fix it cause u welded it...just do it right and spend more $
Is that paint going to last?
I would thought you would need a rust converter for it.
As you said though, it's not really important
My rear end slips when I make a complete stop Im not 100% sure if that's the problem any ideas ? I have a 98 silverado z71
I have an olds delta 88 from 1978. in the owners manual it says every 7500 milles the differential oil has to be changed. but many people say thats bull sh***.
The las half year when i but in reverse it gives a hard shok, probebly loose differtial.
now i'm gonna change my oil (probebly to late) but its imposibble the say to buy a compleet new rear axle for this model car. what the hell should i do? Gr. from the netherlands.
order parts and have it rebuilt or find a shop that specializes in american cars and have them rebuild it
@turbo321 Nah my friend brought some PB Blaster over last night. The square was fine I just couldn't get if to turn. I did use a jack to help with the hard part after the PB Blaster.
Im about to do this same job on a 2006 1500...Im not as scared after watching this.
How do you know you have enough greese in it
Rear end oil? Fill it to the base of the fill plug.
How much of the 80w/90 s or 2 or 3 ?? it seemed like a lot came out with the draining process
Why I say 3 is you fill it until it reaches the fill hole, so maybe 2.5ish? I don’t recall the exact amount.
@@Turbo231 ok thank you.
Did you jack up the truck for this? You said in the beginning you didnt, but the picture at the end shows it on jacks.