I sincerely appreciate your well shot and well explained videos on these trucks. Mine is getting up to where I should probably change the front / rear diff and transfer case fluid. You're the man, thanks again.
Good job on the video! I’m about to start on this job and work my way on through the front diff as well on my 2003 Suburban, very straightforward video and great explanations!
Finally found what I needed. Thank you for your notes that quote a manual regarding the fill requirements. I don't have a maintenance manual, so this is greatly appreciated. Others in their videos have quoted the 6.2L V8 values as though for all trucks. Glad I found your data, because I have a 5.3L V8 1500. I measured what I drained, and it was 2.5 quarts. I put 2.0 quarts in, and it was at .87 inch from the hole. That confused me, because of the fill value provided in another person's video. I wondered how I could be okay on level if I put in 0.5 quart less than I drained. Well, 2 quarts (4 pints) is not enough, because based on the manual you quoted, I need to be between .04 and .7 inch. Glad I didn't trust the other person's video that led me to believe I was okay. Again, thank you.
Yeah. He loves to help out when he can 😊 hopefully he'll pick up a few things, see all the mistakes that didn't make the edit and learn what not to do lol
Thanks for the tutorial! Made doing the fluid change on my 2015 silverado 1,000 times easier! Gasket came off in good condition so I reused it and so far no leaks
Thanks so much for the video. I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 5.3L with the 9.5" rear end (154,250 miles). This was the first time I attemped to change the transfer case, front differential, & rear differential fluids myself. Your videos made the job much easier to understand and perform. I got by for around $165 using the Amsoil products and a new AC/Delco rear end cover gasket. I could have re-used the original rear cover gasket, but I didn't want to get in the middle of the job and not be able to use the old one for whatever reason. So, I used the new one.
I've always changed my diff fluid using this method. However, most recently, i decided to just pump it out. Took about half the time and no mess, and super simple Pump was 10 bucks at walmart...
Thanks brotha! I’m about to change out everything on my 2016 5.3 6speed Silverado. Do you have specific brands you recommend for tranny, diffs and transfer case? Thanks again
Great videos man. I just bought a 2014 1500 LTZ with 98k miles, I'm gonna change the front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission fluid very soon for peace of mind. These videos are very helpful!
Awesome! Best of luck with it. You may want to consider swapping torque converters soon too. They are known to go after 100K and take the transmission with them
@@TheSundaeDrive that's a bummer to hear. But I have a lifetime powertrain warranty through the dealership so that's on them 😂 I actually bought the truck 12 days ago and noticed the transmission fluid is almost black, even though they apparently did a 160 whatever point inspection. So I'm in the process of dealing with that, hopefully they will change the fluid since it should have been done before I bought it in the first place.
@@TheSundaeDrive it was included in the price! I guess they do it with all their pre owned vehicles under 100k miles. I was stoked to find that out lol
Very nice video! We seem to have the same truck. May I suggest using all thread studs to aid in the installation of the differential cover gasket and the cover itself. If memory serves, the cover bolt thread pattern is M8x1.25. About 100 millimeters or 4 inches should do it. Install about 3 to 4 studs, the gasket over the studs, and then the cover itself. Secure the remainder of the bolts, remove the studs and replace with the bolts.
Thanks! Yes we will. I already have all the fluid, filter, and new gasket ready to go. Just finding the time to do it. Truck just hit 72K so I need to do it soon.
Just a question but did you clean the magnet in the bottom of the differential housing as well. I know the fill plug has a magnet to caught metallic deposits but there is also one in the bottom of the housing as well.
Unless you are planning to weld something both are safe to use. The red can can create toxic gasses if you weld after but hopefully your rear diff does not require welding lol. The green can is also cheaper and does a good job. Both evaporate very quickly.
I confirm William's findings about the second magnet. It's located in the very bottom of the differential housing. I also want to let you know that it's GLUED DOWN!!!. Don't lift it up/pry it out, thinking that you can clean it off better if it's entirely out and in your hands. It's rather large, about the diameter of a 50 cent piece. It's also a very WEAK magnet. I was hoping I could simply just put it back and it would be attracted so hard to the bottom of the differential housing that I would have no worries about it coming loose, but turns out, I was wrong. I didn't have time to find out what kind of adhesive that was holding it down, let alone prep the area for glue that can live in a constant gear oil bath and the time for the glue to cure. So, I took the thing out for now. I had a bad feeling it would be bouncing around my differential if I left it in there and it would end up destroying something. I'm going to round up a super strong rare earth magnet and put that on the outside of the bottom of the differential for now until I change the fluid again. During the next rear diff fluid change I'll see if I can move the rare earth magnet to the original magnet's location if it will stay put under its own attraction power. I'll definitely be removing the rear diff fill plug during regular engine oil changes to wipe the fill plug magnet off more often as well. Bottom line, wipe that second magnet off, but leave the thing alone after that. Don't be like me. LOL.
Just a thought. I did my front diff on 2018 Escalade, which calls for 75W90 synthetic gear oil. I used the Amsoil. I was going to use the same on the rear until I got around to reading in the manual that the rear takes 75W85. So you might want to double check the manual to make sure you put the right one in. Nice explanation and demo too, thank you!!
No problem! The weight I used in the video was slightly different than the recommended one for my front diff but spoke with Amsoil and they said it was still compatible. When in doubt I would always go with what your manual recommends tho to maintain your warranty coverage
@@BrianRandles it was really tight. So I took a nylon rope and tied it to the bumper as I pulled to get a little extra space. I did put a very small scratch on the cover. That’ll drive me nuts till spring when I’ll probably touch it up. I also find it curious that I did the transfer case and 2500 miles later I’d did it again and there were shavings on the magnet. The fluid intervals seem so wacky. All of them are easy to do so I’m probably going to do them more often than what is recommended. Actually, let me modify that. All except the transmission, I’m still scared to dig into that one, but I did buy a pump to empty fluids so next rear diff I’ll suck the fluid and refill, instead of taking the whole cover off. Also Amsoil said it was ok to use same gear oil front and rear so I did.
@@bcar1ify yeah I ended up doing the same. I sold the Escalade last October. I developed a shudder. Dealers were very uncooperative in wanting to figure out the problem and I got fed up. Bought a Lexus and actually I’m kind of glad I did.
I just changed the rear diff fluid in my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 and I also found a magnet at the bottom of the housing it also had some small metal particulate just like the magnet on the fill plug in the cover.
There are two magnets in two locations one on the cover and there's actually one in the bottom of the housing I found it when I was cleaning all the old gear oil
I confirm William's findings about the second magnet. It's located in the very bottom of the differential housing. I also want to let you know that it's GLUED DOWN!!!. Don't lift it up, thinking that you can clean it off better if it's entirely out and in your hands. It's rather large, about the diameter of a 50 cent piece. It's also a very WEAK magnet. I was hoping I could simply just put it back and it would be attracted so hard to the bottom of the differential housing that I would have no worries about it coming loose, but turns out, I was wrong. I didn't have time to find out what kind of adhesive that was holding it down, let alone prep the area for glue that can live in a constant gear oil bath and the time for the glue to cure. So, I took the thing out for now. I had a bad feeling it would be bouncing around my differential if I left it in there and it would end up destroying something. I'm going to round up a super strong rare earth magnet and put that on the outside of the differential for now until I change the fluid again. I'll definitely be removing the fill plug during regular engine oil changes to wipe the fill plug magnet off more often as well. Bottom line, wipe that second magnet off, but leave the thing alone after that. Don't be like me. LOL.
Have a 15' Silverado LT 4wd with 12 bolt cover , so would that be 9.5" or 8.6" rearend .Has 70K on it & want to change the fluids on it for vacation travels this summer. Thanks
Hey Bud, great videos, Will use them for my 2013 Suburban. Quick question on the rear diff change. Would it be ok to simply stick a plastic tube (bent downwards) into the fill hole and suck the fluid out (most of it at least) instead of opening the pan? I just did that job on my BMW which has a non-openable rear diff and that is exactly how it has to be done: Sucked old fluid, pushed new one in (also there is just one hole on my BMW, the fill one). So would that be ok and much simpler? I wanna do it very soon, pls let me know, thanks!
That should be ok to do as long as you can get most of the fluid put. Eventually you'll want to change the gasket to prevent leaks but the gasket should last for awhile.
@@TheSundaeDrive So I just did it and it was super easy and quick! Thanks for a great video... I will do the gasket in a few years, no reason to mess with it now. Here is the bit where i actually do it. The video is for my other car but I used my suburban rear diff part in it because i was unable to record this step on my other car the day before. ruclips.net/video/8uPQFFcYC4s/видео.html
I snapped a bolt head when tightening it. It was the last one near top. Threaded part is in there. It was lined up so not sure why the trouble with that one. Not leaking though after driving fast. Hope I didn't damage the housing thread, I am not sure how im gonna get it out
Aww man that stinks. Since it is the top one you are probably ok. The main concern would be if it isn't tight and outside elements could get inside the differential. but with all the bolts on there you are probably okay I don't want to guarantee that because obviously it's better to have all the bolts but most likely you will be safe to leave it until the next maintenance. obviously I would check on it every once in a while maybe extract some of the fluid at some point with a pump just to make sure it doesn't look funky in color like water or anything got in there. They sell tap kits that will drill into the bolt and help you extract it. You'll probably need to rethread the threads on the housing though unless it wasn't cross-threaded and you just over tightened it in which case the threads will be okay but you'll still need to extract that bolt
Go for it. The explanation here is the best I have seen. It’s really easy. Just did mine. Went with AMSOIL severe gear 75w-90 in squeeze bags. They are the best.
Have you been able to tell a noticeable difference since changing over to amsoil? I am about to change transfer case, both differentials and the trans over to amsoil and any input would be appreciated
I have a '20 Chevy Silverado 1500 RWD. I can see the fill plug but no drain plug on the bottom. Aside from opening up the cover, is there another way to swap out the fluid? Thank you...
You could suck out the fluid through the fill hole but you really not cleaning the case and gears. I spray everything down with brake cleaner. On mine there was a magnet on the bottom of the case as well. Taking the cover off is really not that bad.
What oil did you use brotha? Im gona do both front and rear diffs as well as the gasket with amsoil severe gear 75w90 , i read o na forum that you can put heavier weight on the front diff? I have an 09 silverado 5.3 btw
Any idea if 07 Escalade has reusable rear differential cover gasket? Is the fill procedure the same, fill until dribbles out? Owners manual indicates: “The proper level is from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.” Should I be ok to fill cold until fluid begins to dribble out then plug after stream has stopped? Thank you!
Autozone and Amazon keep telling me I have a 14 bolt cover when I try to buy the gasket. I have a 12 bolt cover on my 2014 Silverado 1500, where should i get gasket?
It is a reusable gasket but after a few changes you should change it. I had a very hard time finding the right gasket. Honestly, I would check with the dealer. Most AutoZone employees don't know anything lol
I believe they are rated at 6000 lbs each. The size is the diameter of the ring gear on the inside so there is no good way to measure it without removing the cover that I am aware of. Usually you need to check the number of bolts on the cover and match that up with your local dealer and they can tell you which rear you have.
@@TheSundaeDrive Cliff, thank you for the response and clarifications. Much appreciated and im grateful for what you do for the 3rd gen silverado community.
Thanks for the video. Any idea on the recommended change interval for the rear diff, transfer case and automatic transmission? I have a 2020 Silverado with 10-speed auto. Just curious as I am doing my first oil change today :-).
Philip Gonzales just my 2 cents, I have a 2018 Escalade with 18,000 miles. I’ ve done the front and rear differentials and the transfer case. It doesn’t call for any of those fluid changes till like some insane number of miles like 70,000. The transfer case and front differential were easy. The rear diff was more challenging, but I got it done today. Now all fluids are fresh, everything super clean. The transfer case fluid was nasty dirty. Tomorrow I’m having my mechanic do the transmission which I feel really needs someone who knows what they’re doing. I have all amsoil fluids in the and all I see it as is cheap insurance. Some people recommend 30,000 mile intervals . I’ll probably do all this again when I hit 50,000.
im planning to change my 2010 suburban gear oil with red line synthetic 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil, is this gear oil compatible with GM? and is this gear oil ok for daily use?
If you go to redline's website they have a vehicle selector and they will indicate the exact oil you need. That gear oil should work. I would always recommend checking directly with redline and your local dealer.
Only needed with some fluids and certain differentials. I asked amsoil and they said it is not needed for mine with their fluid but always verify with your owners manual
I personally wouldn't but it's also probably not going to hurt anything as long as you make sure it is fully evaporated and completely dried out after you do it. You don't want any of that staying in there when you add the new fluid in because it'll break down the oil. And I don't really see a need to throw the degreaser in there unless there's a lot of Gunk you're trying to get out because it's better to keep the gears lubricated then cleaning them off 100%
I’ve always cleaned it off with brake clean or carburetor cleaner it’s easily mopped up in the bottom of the differential housing. That way you can inspect ring and pinion gear and spider gears carefully. Once refilled with oil half of your ring and Pinion gear is in oil bath along with spider gears. Once a differential makes a half a tire everything is colder than oil no different than letting your car sit overnight.
Easiest way is just go look at the axle, the 8.6 has 10 bolts holding the cover on. The 9.5in has 12 bolts holding the cover on. Another way is all V8 trucks on 2014 and newer 1500’s come with the 9.5/12 bolt axle, and the smaller 10 bolt 8.6 axle is in the V6 trucks or most any 1500 Silverado 2013 and older will have a 10 bolt.
What exactly do you mean when you say 9.5 inch rear. I’m assuming that you got this measurement from somewhere to determine how much fluid your differential takes. How did you come about this number so that I can determine what amount of fluid I need for my 2014 Silverado 1500 double cab LTZ Z71. Can the measurement be taken. And does it affect the weight of the fluid that goes into as well. Thanks and hope my question makes sense.
Question definitely makes sense. I believe at the time I talked with a tech at the dealer parts department and found photos of the different rears online to figure out which I had. The different size rears gave different number of bolts holding the case closed.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks for the reply back. That gives me the information that I need so I can find the correct one for my Silverado. You have a really good channel. Your videos are very informative and of good quality.
That is not the fill spot on a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd, it is at the very top>if that is the fill spot than what use is the magnet if it is above the fluid level, and does not anyone use the drain plug for releasing the fluid???
The bolt pattern that you have should give it away. I believe that the 10bolt is the 8.6 and the 12 bolt is 9.5. I would recommend checking with a dealer to verify tho. Just give them your vin and your bolt pattern and they will be able to confirm the rear you have.
Gm made that reusable gasket for a reason ... So you can re-use it ! It's metal coated with rubber that doesn't deteriorate . I could see if it were a old school paper gasket . But still. I would have not used rtv in this case
No I did not. I have a locking rear differential and from my research on the forums you never want to use a slip modifier with a locking rear. Slip modifiers are intended for lsd rears like I have in my Camaro. My truck's owners manual (which includes all the silverado models for my year) does not include slip modifier under the fluids and lubricant section. My Camaro manual, on the other hand, does. Therefore, I do not think any, of at least my generation silverados, need a modifier.
Great choice on AMSOIL. I have a question. It wouldn't hurt it if I happens to overfill the oil right I mean not so much but a little wouldn't hurt much wouldn't it? I have a 2500HD GMC 2016 gas 6.0 10.5 axle
A tiny bit should not hurt anything. If you are only a little over the recommended amount, it would be unlikely to have any noticeable problems. If you are a lot over, it probably would be worth taking the time to drain a little out just for peace of mind. That said, always best to follow the manufacturer recommended amounts. Also, make sure you are checking the amount that the vehicle is truly level. I have thought I overfilled mine when in fact the truck was on the slightest of hills (maybe a 4 or 5" drop from front to back) and it made it look overfull and when I checked it again the next day it was perfect.
The owner's manual specifies 1mm (yes, one millimeter) below the opening of the fill plug. I too have the 9.5" rear differential, and mine took 2.75 quarts on level ground before it weeped. If the manual says 1 millimeter below the hole, take a second and think about that. 1mm is pretty small. Filling beyond the plug hole is almost impossible, it'll just spill out. Also consider that your differential has a vent tube. If that 1mm makes a difference, it'll blow it out of the vent tube. But if you also consider that for many decades, the procedure was to fill until it weeps, it's fine.
GM oughta just give the instruction they had been giving all those years. How am I supposed to actually measure 1mm below my fill hole? That's just nonsense. I guarantee that GM Techs are using the weep method on customer vehicles who show up for a diff fluid change.
I will say this, not knocking your video at all. Just an observation. The gasket has plastic/rubber parts on it. It's probably not a great idea to soak it in brake cleaner, as it will degrade. I just wiped mine with a plain cloth.
it really depends on how you use the truck. The owners manual has a severe service change interval and normal use. If you tow or haul a lot, I would go by the severe service rating
So I did a lot of research before doing my change and the best answer I was able to come up with was that GM did not require a slip modifier for my rear; however, these trucks come with several different rears and some do require the modifier. Amsoil sells a slip modifier which can be added to the fluid. If you have a locking rear differential you do not want to use a slip modifier. I would always recommend checking with a local Chevy service department to be safe.
The Sundae Drive The problem is I do not trust the seller or the maintenance, they know nothing. I trust that shop more so I will try the additive thing. Thanks man
Ok. I understand that. The folks at amsoil are pretty helpful so it would not hurt asking them as well. Here is what the owner's manual recommends for a 2014+ Silverado 1500: Rear Axle (1500) SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 19300457, in Canada 19300458). blips://amzn.to/2KiyjBl4 Front Axle (1500) 1500: 80W-90 Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 89021671, in Canada 89021672).
Also, I have a 2012 Camaro with an LSD and GM specifically says to include a slip modifier for the manual trans and not the auto trans in the rear diff. They do not include a slip modifier in the Silverado owner's manual. I also checked the owner's manual of a 2014 Camaro (same year as my truck) and it is the same as the 2012. It is possible the recommended fluid for the Silverado diff already has the slip modifier added but it seems unlikely to me that the would use two different formats in writing the owner's manuals for two vehicles from the same year.
The Sundae Drive As far as I know that the manual transmission Camaro has the LSD but the Auto’s don’t, I will check with Amsoil guys and will let you know when get the answer.
My truck did not when using amsoil. You'll need to verify for your specific rear tho. You can check with the dealer and amsoil and they should be able to help
@@esty802 emonstrated this process on a 3rd gen Silverado (2014) with the 9.5 inch rear axle using AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90 differential fluid. Note that GM recommends 75w-85 for the silverado 1500 but I went with AMSOIL's recommendation given the quality of their fluid. GM recommends 75w-90 for 2500 and 3500 rears.
From the research I did before performing the installation I am pretty sure you are correct. One thing to note, the GM gasket is reusable so you do not necessarily have to replace it. I actually reused mine but I wanted to show the process of installing it with RTV. Also, I had a very difficult time location a gasket for my truck, all of the ones I was finding were for different rears. The dealer had trouble locating it as well even with photographs I sent over. Eventually they did believe the had located it but refused to provide a part number. Apparently GM dealerships no longer provide part numbers. I tried a second dealer with the same result.
The Sundae Drive thanks! I’ll let u know. I went to gmpartsdirect.com put in my vin and the part for both gaskets came up. I went with the one for the 12 bolt pattern so we shall see. I know you can reuse but if im taking the cover off may as well change it. Thx for your vids very helpful. followed the front axle and transfer case and did that on Sunday
Awesome! That kind of feedback makes doing these videos worthwhile. Glad they have been helpful! We will be uploading the transmission flush and filter change in the next couple of days
The Sundae Drive great! thats next on my list so perfect. I’ve been using amsoil since 2002 so finally changing everything over to it on this 2014 truck minus the oil which has been since day 1. keep up the great work
It used to be way easier wen all u did was put the new gear oil in and the old stuff was lighter an just came out of the plug hole as u filled it up .is this not possible any more
Unless you want to inspect the rear end, use the pump to pump out the oil. Hint: with heavy oil, get a drill mounted pump, unless you want your fingers/palm to hurt.
DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEAN ON RUBBER EVER. Brake cleaner will dry out the rubber and break down the rubbers causing the gasket to fail. Other than that great videos guys.
I sincerely appreciate your well shot and well explained videos on these trucks. Mine is getting up to where I should probably change the front / rear diff and transfer case fluid. You're the man, thanks again.
No problem! Glad they are helping you out!
Thank you so much for doing all of your videos. I did most of oil change in my chevy tahoe2017 as you did. Everything went fine. Thank you again 💓
Awesome! Glad the videos helped!
Good job on the video! I’m about to start on this job and work my way on through the front diff as well on my 2003 Suburban, very straightforward video and great explanations!
Awesome! Glad it is helping you out :)
Finally found what I needed. Thank you for your notes that quote a manual regarding the fill requirements. I don't have a maintenance manual, so this is greatly appreciated. Others in their videos have quoted the 6.2L V8 values as though for all trucks. Glad I found your data, because I have a 5.3L V8 1500. I measured what I drained, and it was 2.5 quarts. I put 2.0 quarts in, and it was at .87 inch from the hole. That confused me, because of the fill value provided in another person's video. I wondered how I could be okay on level if I put in 0.5 quart less than I drained. Well, 2 quarts (4 pints) is not enough, because based on the manual you quoted, I need to be between .04 and .7 inch. Glad I didn't trust the other person's video that led me to believe I was okay. Again, thank you.
No problem! I'm glad it helped! It makes the extra time making the video worth it :)
That's cool for your little bro, teaching him how to work on cars, good thing to know.
Yeah. He loves to help out when he can 😊 hopefully he'll pick up a few things, see all the mistakes that didn't make the edit and learn what not to do lol
@@TheSundaeDrive Learning from others mistakes is the best way to navigate through life.
Agreed
Thanks for the tutorial! Made doing the fluid change on my 2015 silverado 1,000 times easier! Gasket came off in good condition so I reused it and so far no leaks
Awesome! I reused mine too 😂 I just wiped off the rtv after showing how to use it
how much fluid did you use?
Thanks so much for the video. I have a 2017 GMC Sierra 5.3L with the 9.5" rear end (154,250 miles). This was the first time I attemped to change the transfer case, front differential, & rear differential fluids myself. Your videos made the job much easier to understand and perform. I got by for around $165 using the Amsoil products and a new AC/Delco rear end cover gasket. I could have re-used the original rear cover gasket, but I didn't want to get in the middle of the job and not be able to use the old one for whatever reason. So, I used the new one.
Was this the first time changing the fluids or just you doing it yourself??
Myself@@nimrod275
Weston! Thank you bro I’m doing my oil change today!
Any time!
Caprice is really nice. I love those front ends.
Stay gold.
Thanks :) love that car. Have to get it fixed up a bit
Thank you 4 the knowledge
Looked pretty clean.
Great video, Doing my 2015 Tahoe tomorrow
Awesome! Best of luck with it
I've always changed my diff fluid using this method. However, most recently, i decided to just pump it out. Took about half the time and no mess, and super simple
Pump was 10 bucks at walmart...
But you can't give the gears an eyeball if you just pump. Easier though for sure.
Great video, thank you!
Thanks! No problem!
Thanks brotha! I’m about to change out everything on my 2016 5.3 6speed Silverado. Do you have specific brands you recommend for tranny, diffs and transfer case? Thanks again
Great videos man. I just bought a 2014 1500 LTZ with 98k miles, I'm gonna change the front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission fluid very soon for peace of mind. These videos are very helpful!
Awesome! Best of luck with it. You may want to consider swapping torque converters soon too. They are known to go after 100K and take the transmission with them
@@TheSundaeDrive that's a bummer to hear. But I have a lifetime powertrain warranty through the dealership so that's on them 😂 I actually bought the truck 12 days ago and noticed the transmission fluid is almost black, even though they apparently did a 160 whatever point inspection. So I'm in the process of dealing with that, hopefully they will change the fluid since it should have been done before I bought it in the first place.
@@Billy-hx3zi oh nice! Didn't even know you could get a lifetime warranty. How much did that cost??
@@TheSundaeDrive it was included in the price! I guess they do it with all their pre owned vehicles under 100k miles. I was stoked to find that out lol
@@Billy-hx3zi where did you get it from? I may need to buy future vehicles there lol
Just wanted to say thank you!
Great video I just want to go ahead and say thank you
Another good video!
Thanks!
Excited to try this on my 1993 Chevrolet Silverado.
Best of luck!
Very nice video! We seem to have the same truck. May I suggest using all thread studs to aid in the installation of the differential cover gasket and the cover itself. If memory serves, the cover bolt thread pattern is M8x1.25. About 100 millimeters or 4 inches should do it. Install about 3 to 4 studs, the gasket over the studs, and then the cover itself. Secure the remainder of the bolts, remove the studs and replace with the bolts.
That is a fantastic suggestion! I'll have to do just that. Maybe I'll do a video on it
Nice!! Thanks ...very good video 👍🏼👌🏽
Glad you enjoyed it!
Good work Weston
Haha thanks!
know what you"re doing guy you a definite wrench
Awesome video. Got everything covered and no bullshit. Subscribed
Great video.🔧⚙️
Good series on the fluid changes. Will you be making one on doing the transmission fluid change?
Thanks! Yes we will. I already have all the fluid, filter, and new gasket ready to go. Just finding the time to do it. Truck just hit 72K so I need to do it soon.
The transmission flush and filter change has been shot. Just have to edit it but it should be up within a couple of weeks.
Awesome! Thanks 👍and to Weston too👍👍👍.
No problem! Glad it helped! I'll make sure to pass the thanks on to Weston :)
Just a question but did you clean the magnet in the bottom of the differential housing as well. I know the fill plug has a magnet to caught metallic deposits but there is also one in the bottom of the housing as well.
Thank you 🙏👏👍
No problem! :)
I noticed you used the green "Non-Chlorinated" Brakleen, would the normal red can of Brakleen be a concern to use when cleaning the diff cover?
Unless you are planning to weld something both are safe to use. The red can can create toxic gasses if you weld after but hopefully your rear diff does not require welding lol. The green can is also cheaper and does a good job. Both evaporate very quickly.
I confirm William's findings about the second magnet. It's located in the very bottom of the differential housing. I also want to let you know that it's GLUED DOWN!!!. Don't lift it up/pry it out, thinking that you can clean it off better if it's entirely out and in your hands. It's rather large, about the diameter of a 50 cent piece. It's also a very WEAK magnet. I was hoping I could simply just put it back and it would be attracted so hard to the bottom of the differential housing that I would have no worries about it coming loose, but turns out, I was wrong. I didn't have time to find out what kind of adhesive that was holding it down, let alone prep the area for glue that can live in a constant gear oil bath and the time for the glue to cure. So, I took the thing out for now. I had a bad feeling it would be bouncing around my differential if I left it in there and it would end up destroying something. I'm going to round up a super strong rare earth magnet and put that on the outside of the bottom of the differential for now until I change the fluid again. During the next rear diff fluid change I'll see if I can move the rare earth magnet to the original magnet's location if it will stay put under its own attraction power. I'll definitely be removing the rear diff fill plug during regular engine oil changes to wipe the fill plug magnet off more often as well. Bottom line, wipe that second magnet off, but leave the thing alone after that. Don't be like me. LOL.
Aww that stinks man! Thank you for sharing tho. Very good to know
That's weird that GM would use glue to hold down that weak magnet like that.
So it’s ok to use 75w90 for 1500 model
Great Video. I just purchased a 2014 Silverado 4.3 with 75,000. When should I change the fluid in the rear end.
Congrats on the new ride! I would do it now. You don't know how it was treated before you got it. I would change all your fluids.
Just a thought. I did my front diff on 2018 Escalade, which calls for 75W90 synthetic gear oil. I used the Amsoil. I was going to use the same on the rear until I got around to reading in the manual that the rear takes 75W85. So you might want to double check the manual to make sure you put the right one in. Nice explanation and demo too, thank you!!
No problem! The weight I used in the video was slightly different than the recommended one for my front diff but spoke with Amsoil and they said it was still compatible. When in doubt I would always go with what your manual recommends tho to maintain your warranty coverage
@cocora22 - Did you have to remove the panhard bar (track bar) that crosses the rear diff cover? Looks extremely close on mine so was just curious.
@@BrianRandles it was really tight. So I took a nylon rope and tied it to the bumper as I pulled to get a little extra space. I did put a very small scratch on the cover. That’ll drive me nuts till spring when I’ll probably touch it up. I also find it curious that I did the transfer case and 2500 miles later I’d did it again and there were shavings on the magnet. The fluid intervals seem so wacky. All of them are easy to do so I’m probably going to do them more often than what is recommended. Actually, let me modify that. All except the transmission, I’m still scared to dig into that one, but I did buy a pump to empty fluids so next rear diff I’ll suck the fluid and refill, instead of taking the whole cover off. Also Amsoil said it was ok to use same gear oil front and rear so I did.
I used 75w-90 in both of mine for my Tahoe and it’s fine.
@@bcar1ify yeah I ended up doing the same. I sold the Escalade last October. I developed a shudder. Dealers were very uncooperative in wanting to figure out the problem and I got fed up. Bought a Lexus and actually I’m kind of glad I did.
I just changed the rear diff fluid in my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 and I also found a magnet at the bottom of the housing it also had some small metal particulate just like the magnet on the fill plug in the cover.
I'll have to look for that next time I change mine
So, the magnet is actually located at the bottom of your housing rather than inside of your differential cover?
There are two magnets in two locations one on the cover and there's actually one in the bottom of the housing I found it when I was cleaning all the old gear oil
Good to know. Thanks!
I confirm William's findings about the second magnet. It's located in the very bottom of the differential housing. I also want to let you know that it's GLUED DOWN!!!. Don't lift it up, thinking that you can clean it off better if it's entirely out and in your hands. It's rather large, about the diameter of a 50 cent piece. It's also a very WEAK magnet. I was hoping I could simply just put it back and it would be attracted so hard to the bottom of the differential housing that I would have no worries about it coming loose, but turns out, I was wrong. I didn't have time to find out what kind of adhesive that was holding it down, let alone prep the area for glue that can live in a constant gear oil bath and the time for the glue to cure. So, I took the thing out for now. I had a bad feeling it would be bouncing around my differential if I left it in there and it would end up destroying something. I'm going to round up a super strong rare earth magnet and put that on the outside of the differential for now until I change the fluid again. I'll definitely be removing the fill plug during regular engine oil changes to wipe the fill plug magnet off more often as well. Bottom line, wipe that second magnet off, but leave the thing alone after that. Don't be like me. LOL.
Have a 15' Silverado LT 4wd with 12 bolt cover , so would that be 9.5" or 8.6" rearend .Has 70K on it & want to change the fluids on it for vacation travels this summer.
Thanks
Hey Bud, great videos, Will use them for my 2013 Suburban. Quick question on the rear diff change. Would it be ok to simply stick a plastic tube (bent downwards) into the fill hole and suck the fluid out (most of it at least) instead of opening the pan? I just did that job on my BMW which has a non-openable rear diff and that is exactly how it has to be done: Sucked old fluid, pushed new one in (also there is just one hole on my BMW, the fill one). So would that be ok and much simpler? I wanna do it very soon, pls let me know, thanks!
That should be ok to do as long as you can get most of the fluid put. Eventually you'll want to change the gasket to prevent leaks but the gasket should last for awhile.
@@TheSundaeDrive So I just did it and it was super easy and quick! Thanks for a great video... I will do the gasket in a few years, no reason to mess with it now. Here is the bit where i actually do it. The video is for my other car but I used my suburban rear diff part in it because i was unable to record this step on my other car the day before. ruclips.net/video/8uPQFFcYC4s/видео.html
I'll check it out 👍👍 thanks. Glad it helped you out.
I snapped a bolt head when tightening it. It was the last one near top. Threaded part is in there. It was lined up so not sure why the trouble with that one. Not leaking though after driving fast. Hope I didn't damage the housing thread, I am not sure how im gonna get it out
Aww man that stinks. Since it is the top one you are probably ok. The main concern would be if it isn't tight and outside elements could get inside the differential. but with all the bolts on there you are probably okay I don't want to guarantee that because obviously it's better to have all the bolts but most likely you will be safe to leave it until the next maintenance. obviously I would check on it every once in a while maybe extract some of the fluid at some point with a pump just to make sure it doesn't look funky in color like water or anything got in there. They sell tap kits that will drill into the bolt and help you extract it. You'll probably need to rethread the threads on the housing though unless it wasn't cross-threaded and you just over tightened it in which case the threads will be okay but you'll still need to extract that bolt
Im gonna go ahead and do this myself!
Awesome!
Loving inspiring people to tackle jobs on there own
With this coronavirus stuff going on i figure there is lots of time to give the truck some love. Quality video thanks again
@@DeathrashWhiplash for sure! No problem
Go for it. The explanation here is the best I have seen. It’s really easy. Just did mine. Went with AMSOIL severe gear 75w-90 in squeeze bags. They are the best.
How can I tell if my differential oil needs to be changed? I recently bought a 2011 Chevy Tahoe from an upscale dealership.
You should change it based upon mileage and use. Ask the dealer to check the service history to see if it was ever changed.
Is the torque 20 ft lbs too for the bolts if I reuse the gasket instead of the rtv?
Yes it should be 👍
So you can just do the sealant and no gasket ?
You want to do one or the other, never do both together.
So there is not a drain plug ?
Have you been able to tell a noticeable difference since changing over to amsoil? I am about to change transfer case, both differentials and the trans over to amsoil and any input would be appreciated
Awesome videos by the way! Always look forward to new ones coming out
Thanks for that! Glad you are enjoying them! I cannot say it is is a significant change. I think there was a small one but very hard to tell for sure
I have a '20 Chevy Silverado 1500 RWD. I can see the fill plug but no drain plug on the bottom. Aside from opening up the cover, is there another way to swap out the fluid? Thank you...
You could suck out the fluid through the fill hole but you really not cleaning the case and gears. I spray everything down with brake cleaner. On mine there was a magnet on the bottom of the case as well. Taking the cover off is really not that bad.
What oil did you use brotha? Im gona do both front and rear diffs as well as the gasket with amsoil severe gear 75w90 , i read o na forum that you can put heavier weight on the front diff? I have an 09 silverado 5.3 btw
I used the recommended weights from amsoil. If you put your vehicle in their site they the recommended fluids and I have had 0 issues.
Any idea if 07 Escalade has reusable rear differential cover gasket? Is the fill procedure the same, fill until dribbles out? Owners manual indicates:
“The proper level is from 0.04 inch to 0.75 inch (1.0 mm to 19.0 mm) below the bottom of
the filler plug hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level.”
Should I be ok to fill cold until fluid begins to dribble out then plug after stream has stopped? Thank you!
If it reads 0.04" that is incredibly close to just starting to run out. Just make sure it is level
Autozone and Amazon keep telling me I have a 14 bolt cover when I try to buy the gasket. I have a 12 bolt cover on my 2014 Silverado 1500, where should i get gasket?
It is a reusable gasket but after a few changes you should change it. I had a very hard time finding the right gasket. Honestly, I would check with the dealer. Most AutoZone employees don't know anything lol
Maybe rockauto would have one?
Hey cliff, what weight-grade are those rhino ramps? Also, how do you know if you have a 8.5 or 9.5 rear? Where does one measure from?
I believe they are rated at 6000 lbs each. The size is the diameter of the ring gear on the inside so there is no good way to measure it without removing the cover that I am aware of. Usually you need to check the number of bolts on the cover and match that up with your local dealer and they can tell you which rear you have.
@@TheSundaeDrive Cliff, thank you for the response and clarifications. Much appreciated and im grateful for what you do for the 3rd gen silverado community.
@@jigga594 you got it! Just doing my part to help everyone out 😉
Does fill plug have a washer that needs to be replaced?
From what I recall, I don't believe so
You said the bolts should be torqued to 20 ft. lbs, but my Haynes manual says 30.
It's a 8.6.
You should wait until the sealant \RTV dries ( 45 minutes), it might leak if you don't.
Thanks for the video. Any idea on the recommended change interval for the rear diff, transfer case and automatic transmission? I have a 2020 Silverado with 10-speed auto. Just curious as I am doing my first oil change today :-).
Philip Gonzales just my 2 cents, I have a 2018 Escalade with 18,000 miles. I’ ve done the front and rear differentials and the transfer case. It doesn’t call for any of those fluid changes till like some insane number of miles like 70,000. The transfer case and front differential were easy. The rear diff was more challenging, but I got it done today. Now all fluids are fresh, everything super clean. The transfer case fluid was nasty dirty. Tomorrow I’m having my mechanic do the transmission which I feel really needs someone who knows what they’re doing. I have all amsoil fluids in the and all I see it as is cheap insurance. Some people recommend 30,000 mile intervals . I’ll probably do all this again when I hit 50,000.
@@Cocora22 thank you. I'm thinking maybe every 50K for trans, diff, and transfer case. Maybe a little sooner is better though.
@@Cocora22 I just did my oil in my 6.2L at 1300 miles :-).
100000 miles, check glove box manual.
So 😎
This is so easy!!!!!!@
im planning to change my 2010 suburban gear oil with red line synthetic 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil, is this gear oil compatible with GM? and is this gear oil ok for daily use?
If you go to redline's website they have a vehicle selector and they will indicate the exact oil you need. That gear oil should work. I would always recommend checking directly with redline and your local dealer.
what about anti slip additive ?
Only needed with some fluids and certain differentials. I asked amsoil and they said it is not needed for mine with their fluid but always verify with your owners manual
Cover doesn't have to be removed, unless gasket is leaking
You could just crack it to drain out the old fluid but better to check inside and clean up the mating surface if you are that into the job.
I've seen other videos where they spray the diff internals down with brakleen. Is that good bad or neutral?
I personally wouldn't but it's also probably not going to hurt anything as long as you make sure it is fully evaporated and completely dried out after you do it. You don't want any of that staying in there when you add the new fluid in because it'll break down the oil. And I don't really see a need to throw the degreaser in there unless there's a lot of Gunk you're trying to get out because it's better to keep the gears lubricated then cleaning them off 100%
I’ve always cleaned it off with brake clean or carburetor cleaner it’s easily mopped up in the bottom of the differential housing. That way you can inspect ring and pinion gear and spider gears carefully. Once refilled with oil half of your ring and Pinion gear is in oil bath along with spider gears. Once a differential makes a half a tire everything is colder than oil no different than letting your car sit overnight.
Turn not tire
How do I know if I have a 9.5 inch rear or the 8.6 inch rear? Is it an RPO code
Easiest way is just go look at the axle, the 8.6 has 10 bolts holding the cover on. The 9.5in has 12 bolts holding the cover on.
Another way is all V8 trucks on 2014 and newer 1500’s come with the 9.5/12 bolt axle, and the smaller 10 bolt 8.6 axle is in the V6 trucks or most any 1500 Silverado 2013 and older will have a 10 bolt.
Drew w thank you
I know the gearing but dont know the size diff. How to know? Count the bolts? I've got 10 bolts I'm assuming the 8.6
... its 4.4 pints for the 8.6 axle for those following this info. More inportanly its [ 3/64 -3/4" ] below the fill hole.
Why it has no lower drain plug, i dont know... Ugh
Super annoying especially since the 2500 does.
What exactly do you mean when you say 9.5 inch rear. I’m assuming that you got this measurement from somewhere to determine how much fluid your differential takes.
How did you come about this number so that I can determine what amount of fluid I need for my 2014 Silverado 1500 double cab LTZ Z71.
Can the measurement be taken. And does it affect the weight of the fluid that goes into as well. Thanks and hope my question makes sense.
Question definitely makes sense. I believe at the time I talked with a tech at the dealer parts department and found photos of the different rears online to figure out which I had. The different size rears gave different number of bolts holding the case closed.
@@TheSundaeDrive Thanks for the reply back. That gives me the information that I need so I can find the correct one for my Silverado. You have a really good channel. Your videos are very informative and of good quality.
@@joshb6760 appreciate that!. Best of luck with your truck
That is not the fill spot on a 2002 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd, it is at the very top>if that is the fill spot than what use is the magnet if it is above the fluid level, and does not anyone use the drain plug for releasing the fluid???
Where can I find what type of differential I have on my Silverado?
The bolt pattern that you have should give it away. I believe that the 10bolt is the 8.6 and the 12 bolt is 9.5. I would recommend checking with a dealer to verify tho. Just give them your vin and your bolt pattern and they will be able to confirm the rear you have.
The Sundae Drive I greatly appreciate your help!
Np!
I did this without dropping the spare...what a pain in the ass.
Lol that sounds terrible
Love the tinfoil trick..!
Nowadays, the (cheap) shop rags leaves behind soooo much lint. & if your OCD, it drives ya nutz.. Lol..!
Lol exactly! Hope it helps. I think I borrowed this idea from Chris fix
Maybe I missed it but is friction modifier required or not?
It is not
Always verify for your specific rear tho with the owner's manual
Thomas West Friction modifier is only required for differentials with limited slip.
What kind of fluid should be used for the transfer case ??
We have a video on that actually but in my truck it uses ATF fluid but that varies on some vehicles. Check the owner's manual to be sure 👍
@@TheSundaeDrive OK, I appreciate it thanks for the help
Gm made that reusable gasket for a reason ... So you can re-use it ! It's metal coated with rubber that doesn't deteriorate . I could see if it were a old school paper gasket . But still. I would have not used rtv in this case
I'll let you in on a secret, I did reuse the gasket ;) I wanted to show how to apply the rtv tho for those with none reusable gaskets.
The Sundae Drive . . Ah I see . Very good . Did you use any friction modifier addictive ? For the limited slip. Or was your diff non LSD
No I did not. I have a locking rear differential and from my research on the forums you never want to use a slip modifier with a locking rear. Slip modifiers are intended for lsd rears like I have in my Camaro. My truck's owners manual (which includes all the silverado models for my year) does not include slip modifier under the fluids and lubricant section. My Camaro manual, on the other hand, does. Therefore, I do not think any, of at least my generation silverados, need a modifier.
Great video!!!👍🏽
Appreciate the feedback! Doing our best to put together quality DIY videos
Great choice on AMSOIL. I have a question. It wouldn't hurt it if I happens to overfill the oil right I mean not so much but a little wouldn't hurt much wouldn't it?
I have a 2500HD GMC 2016 gas 6.0 10.5 axle
A tiny bit should not hurt anything. If you are only a little over the recommended amount, it would be unlikely to have any noticeable problems. If you are a lot over, it probably would be worth taking the time to drain a little out just for peace of mind. That said, always best to follow the manufacturer recommended amounts. Also, make sure you are checking the amount that the vehicle is truly level. I have thought I overfilled mine when in fact the truck was on the slightest of hills (maybe a 4 or 5" drop from front to back) and it made it look overfull and when I checked it again the next day it was perfect.
The owner's manual specifies 1mm (yes, one millimeter) below the opening of the fill plug.
I too have the 9.5" rear differential, and mine took 2.75 quarts on level ground before it weeped.
If the manual says 1 millimeter below the hole, take a second and think about that. 1mm is pretty small. Filling beyond the plug hole is almost impossible, it'll just spill out.
Also consider that your differential has a vent tube.
If that 1mm makes a difference, it'll blow it out of the vent tube. But if you also consider that for many decades, the procedure was to fill until it weeps, it's fine.
Completely agree 👍👍
GM oughta just give the instruction they had been giving all those years. How am I supposed to actually measure 1mm below my fill hole? That's just nonsense.
I guarantee that GM Techs are using the weep method on customer vehicles who show up for a diff fluid change.
I will say this, not knocking your video at all. Just an observation.
The gasket has plastic/rubber parts on it. It's probably not a great idea to soak it in brake cleaner, as it will degrade. I just wiped mine with a plain cloth.
At what milage point is this procedure necessary?
it really depends on how you use the truck. The owners manual has a severe service change interval and normal use. If you tow or haul a lot, I would go by the severe service rating
So will this change the noise that’s coming from underneath cause I was told to change the gasket and add some gear oil
How come the bolts are different sizes
Some hold on some brackets so they are longer
How do you know what size rear you have?
3.42 is my gear ratio. The codes in the glove box will tell you which one you have. Don't remember the size of the diff
Hi again, I went to shop who told me to add additive fluid with the diff fluid. Does the amsoil fluid included the additive thing ?
So I did a lot of research before doing my change and the best answer I was able to come up with was that GM did not require a slip modifier for my rear; however, these trucks come with several different rears and some do require the modifier. Amsoil sells a slip modifier which can be added to the fluid. If you have a locking rear differential you do not want to use a slip modifier. I would always recommend checking with a local Chevy service department to be safe.
The Sundae Drive The problem is I do not trust the seller or the maintenance, they know nothing. I trust that shop more so I will try the additive thing. Thanks man
Ok. I understand that. The folks at amsoil are pretty helpful so it would not hurt asking them as well. Here is what the owner's manual recommends for a 2014+ Silverado 1500:
Rear Axle (1500)
SAE 75W-85 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 19300457, in
Canada 19300458). blips://amzn.to/2KiyjBl4
Front Axle (1500)
1500: 80W-90 Axle Lubricant (GM Part No. 89021671, in
Canada 89021672).
Also, I have a 2012 Camaro with an LSD and GM specifically says to include a slip modifier for the manual trans and not the auto trans in the rear diff. They do not include a slip modifier in the Silverado owner's manual. I also checked the owner's manual of a 2014 Camaro (same year as my truck) and it is the same as the 2012. It is possible the recommended fluid for the Silverado diff already has the slip modifier added but it seems unlikely to me that the would use two different formats in writing the owner's manuals for two vehicles from the same year.
The Sundae Drive As far as I know that the manual transmission Camaro has the LSD but the Auto’s don’t, I will check with Amsoil guys and will let you know when get the answer.
Does the gear oil need any friction modifier like my F150 did for the limited slip?
My truck did not when using amsoil. You'll need to verify for your specific rear tho. You can check with the dealer and amsoil and they should be able to help
I don't agree with everything that you did and said however all in all great video.
Isn't there a drain plug on the bottom of the rear dif?! I think there is on a # of gm trucks!
Some have it and some do not. I think all 2500s do
So that truck has the 9.5" rear, that must mean it hast the bigger 6.2L V8?
5.3 with tow package
I like that Chevrolet caprice . it still looking yuong
Thanks man! Sadly it isn't getting driven enough anymore :(
Nice WRX in the background LoL
Lol that's my brother's. We have a lot of videos up on that car too!
@@TheSundaeDrive nice!!!
What kind of gear oil did u use ?
Amsoil 👍👍
@@TheSundaeDrive cool do u know the viscosity?
@@esty802 emonstrated this process on a 3rd gen Silverado (2014) with the 9.5 inch rear axle using AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90 differential fluid. Note that GM recommends 75w-85 for the silverado 1500 but I went with AMSOIL's recommendation given the quality of their fluid. GM recommends 75w-90 for 2500 and 3500 rears.
how do i tell which gasket i need. i see they sell 2. I have the 3.42 rear, 2014 1500 5.3
think i answered my own question. 8.6 is 10 bolt pattern 9.5 is the 12 bolt
From the research I did before performing the installation I am pretty sure you are correct. One thing to note, the GM gasket is reusable so you do not necessarily have to replace it. I actually reused mine but I wanted to show the process of installing it with RTV. Also, I had a very difficult time location a gasket for my truck, all of the ones I was finding were for different rears. The dealer had trouble locating it as well even with photographs I sent over. Eventually they did believe the had located it but refused to provide a part number. Apparently GM dealerships no longer provide part numbers. I tried a second dealer with the same result.
The Sundae Drive thanks! I’ll let u know. I went to gmpartsdirect.com put in my vin and the part for both gaskets came up. I went with the one for the 12 bolt pattern so we shall see. I know you can reuse but if im taking the cover off may as well change it.
Thx for your vids very helpful. followed the front axle and transfer case and did that on Sunday
Awesome! That kind of feedback makes doing these videos worthwhile. Glad they have been helpful! We will be uploading the transmission flush and filter change in the next couple of days
The Sundae Drive great! thats next on my list so perfect. I’ve been using amsoil since 2002 so finally changing everything over to it on this 2014 truck minus the oil which has been since day 1.
keep up the great work
Does 2wd gm vehicles with 5.3 have front differential?
No the front diff is there to give power to the front wheels so on a 2wd truck it isn’t going to be there. You also won’t have a transfer case
@@TheSundaeDrive thank you this is a big help
@@TheSundaeDrive hey update everything went smooth great video
Awesome! Glad it helped!
It used to be way easier wen all u did was put the new gear oil in and the old stuff was lighter an just came out of the plug hole as u filled it up .is this not possible any more
Why didn't you just take out the drain plug instead of taking off the rear pan to drain the oil?
This model doesn't have a drain plug for the rear end.
My local Napa auto parts gave me 75-85 for the rear and 75-90 for the front 🤷🏻♂️
I believe that is the official spec from gm.
@@TheSundaeDrive Dude i really appreciate your videos, i was able to do all 3 diff and trans cs and save about 300 bucks.THANK YOU!
Awesome! Glad they helped!
Bolt size? 13mm...10mm?
Right at the 1:09 mark it says the size. The cover bolts are all 10 mm :)
The Sundae Drive I must have missed it. I found that mine are 13mm.
Should have put a Banks cover on it.
I want to. Just haven't gotten around to it. Too much going on lol
Unless you want to inspect the rear end, use the pump to pump out the oil. Hint: with heavy oil, get a drill mounted pump, unless you want your fingers/palm to hurt.
Good tip! Do you have any you recommend?
I was thinking the same.Use a pump to suck the oil out through the drain plug hole.Save time and effort on an oil change.
No, because you can’t physically wipe out the bottom with a rag. This removes heavier sediment that won’t come out with a pump.
why can't they just have a drain plug like everyone else?
DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEAN ON RUBBER EVER. Brake cleaner will dry out the rubber and break down the rubbers causing the gasket to fail. Other than that great videos guys.
Agreed. Didn't realize this at the time but appreciate the feedback! I know for next time!
Bullshit
And I don’t have manual
That's crazy your 2014 uses 75W90 and my 2018 uses 75W85 thought 2014 to 2018 was the same.
75w85 is oem spec for my truck too but the oil used in this video is the weight Amsoil recommended when using their product.
@@TheSundaeDrive ok did not want to put the wrong thing in thanks.
There is a more detailed explanation in the description of the video 👍
@@TheSundaeDrive yeah I got the torque pounds I've been looking for that thanks very informative keep up the good work.
always put a new gasket on.
A good idea for sure
Next time use the rest of that brake clean to clean out rear diff
gear oil mixed with brake cleaner makes a really good lubricant
@@WhiteGravey Lol'😅
No paint
gm told me they don't change this oil !!! , they just check it
So if they check and it is bad then what?
@@muminiasty if it's below the level they just put more oil til it leveled up