This is a perfect example of how to do a youtube video. No need to talk for 10 minutes with your dog barking in the background before you start working. Thank you.
At least it was a pretty clean cover and plug. Up here in Michigan, those two pieces often get salt welded together!!!!😂🤣 I don’t even mess with it. I throw a new cover and gasket on. It gives it “I service my crap” look!😂🤣😂
I did my 18 last year and it was straight forward. I also reused the gasket and did not use the sealer. No leaks or issues to report as long as the bolts are torqued correctly. Filled with AMSOIL severe gear. Such an easy job. Maintenance is key and these truck will last a long time.
Step the first: Try to loosen the fill plug. If it doesn't come out, STOP what you are doing and address this first. I like the video, helped me on my 07 sierra.
Good video! The only thing I would recommend people to do differently would be to use a plastic putty knife instead of a metal to remove old gasket. Don't want to risk scraching the machined surface.
Great video bro!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!! Please keep this up. I’d like to see cv axles and maybe some greasing of bearings or some re lubricating important sections of this truck
Great video my guy! Because Of this helpful video Was able to do my own on my 2013 Chevrolet Silverado LT easy 4 x 4. It literally took 20 minutes. The longest part was filling it back up
The only thing that you need to do is after ‘filling’ the rear diff, put the truck at a slight incline, passenger side down first, then drivers side, for a few minutes each, then go back, add more gear oil. This is in the service manual.
Man Thank You for posting up this video this pass weekend before New Years eve December 31, 2021 I went to a major name brand service outlet that does a variety of odds and ends to vehicles ain't going to say there name but they known national, anyway they gave me a doggone quote of over $900 and sum change dollars to do exactly what you just done, well correction of what I also done this pass week myself now.... I did let them do my alignment and tire and rotation which price wise was budgeted just ✅right, but, when I saw that quote just for the differential change my eyes 👀😳 lit up I was like or y'all out of your "Pucking" mind 🤯... I won't be able to eat for a few weeks if I got to pay that, and besides I had already bought the material oil, gasket, even the spray clean off etc. And the guy said it's still going to be $900 and sum change he said nothing he can do because Corp sets the prices but yeah I save a ton of money all because of your video what's your linking I like to buy you a ice cold beer and lunch or something..I'm just trying to keep my knock on wood running long e until we are all forced to buy electric vehicles or EV trucks..keep more videos coming..I was afraid I was going to have to stock up on noodles and crackers for a month and disconnect my cable L😆l good golly they was trying to stick it to me like my name was wally sitting in lock with ronnie
What's the best oil to use because i have a 05 Silverado that i need to do the rear differential oil change and this is the first time I'm going to do it. Thank you Great video
Nice video! Also, will the service manual tell you what kind of info you need about fill volume? Or is it necessary to follow the “leaking out of the fill plug” level check? And will the manual also tell you what size your ring gear is?
Just cuz I don't wanna mess with the gasket and risk of doing it wrong or leaks I'm sticking a tube in there and pumping out as much fluid as I can. Trucks been babied so I should be fine.
My 2008 (2wd) Silverado is sitting at 160k miles. Recently replaced all fluids, replaced all suspension parts, about to tackle the spark plugs this weekend. Was wondering if doing this job along with spark plugs would be needed/recommended. Thanks!
It's a good idea to do the rear diff fluid approx every 30k. You can get away with longer if it doesn't do much towing or get too hot. If it hasn''t been done before, I would recommend doing it. (A revisement to the video, fill it to about a 1/4" below the fill hole rather than until you see fluid running out.) Thanks for watching!
MasterJacks I do little to no towing, it’s 2wd and at 160k miles I have never done it in the 60k miles I’ve owned it. What would changing it and not changing it affect?
@@Abyss0206 I would change it. As gears and bearings wear and fluid deteriorates, the grime has no place to go. You might start seeing pinion or wheel bearing seal leaks. That grime can also get into bearings and cause premature failure. It's all preventative, so it's your call, but could be saving you heartache in the long run.
I personally didn't think it was necessary, but it evaporates so quick it probably wouldn't hurt anything if you did. Don't get it up into the pinion area though, seals don't like it.
You could, but you risk diluting what oil may be left in there. It's also hard on seals if you accidentally over spray. It does evaporate quickly so the risk is pretty minimal.
Yes I cleaned mine with brake cleaner. It runs out the bottom of the case. I used a rag to clean the standing fluid that was left and let it air dry for an hour to make sure everything evaporated. Filled with AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR. won’t have to touch it for 100k miles.
It's called "Brake Clean". You can ask for it at the auto parts store. It's a light solvent that dissolves oil and grease and evaporates quickly. You could also use soap and water to accomplish the same thing. Just rinse it off good and dry it when you're done.
oldmcdonal D Based on mileage and age, not knowing the service history, I would say it's ready for all fluids and an ignition system tune up. If it were mine, I'd prioritize it as follows: transmission flush & filter, coolant, gear cases (rear diff, t-case, front diff), power steering fluid, brake fluid, plugs w/ wires, throttle body clean, and injector service. Deteriorating rubber might necessitate radiator hoses and a serpentine drive belt. A major 100k service can get spendy (like $1500+) at a local garage. I would do my transmission first, then do the others in what you feel an appropriate time frame and order. Hope that's helpful!
The gear oil is pretty thick. It's a job pushing clean stuff out of a new bottle. If you had a neumatic pump it might not be too bad. Let us know if you try and how it goes!
I have the evacuator pneumatic pump and it works phenomenal. But I'm just worried that it won't get all of it and as you seen in his video how he pulled out some of that bottom sludge.
You. Overfilled it read your manual, or and gm,service manual,or TSB on axles never fill to the hole. Causes more heat MUST be 1/2 inch below when cold. And that's with it on level surface--
Verbiage as found in the Owner's Manual: "To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. For all 4.3 L, 4.8 L and 5.3 L 1500 Series applications, the proper level is 1.0 mm to 19.0 mm (0.04 in to 0.7 in) below the bottom of the fill hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level."
MasterJacks well after 42 years in dealerships doing rear axles and automatic transmissions. I have read lots of TSB"s and manuals all state check and fill on level surface and as you found in your manual..1mm-19 mm is good 19 mm is 3/4 inch so a good spot cold and level is 1/2 inch BELOW fill plug.But when on jack stands it's WAY to full and this causes excessively air and foam in oil witch won't show up as problems with average use(other than pinion seal leakage) but will destroy HD semi rear ends manufactured by Easton, Rockwell ,spicer, the effects are similar to liner pitting on diesels and skating of side bearings if extremely overfilled.
Depends on the application, but I haven't had a problem with adding oil to gear cases post-assembly (approx 15min). Most silicones say to wait an hour before adding fluid, 24 to fully cure. I've added fluid within 5 min many times and haven't had leaks.
@@MasterJacks mine said 1 hour then tourge to specs so I did that and added fluid right after I also did as you with the gasket maker and reused the original gasket . Mine is also a 2011 , same rear end . No leaks , I did use a different lube . I used lucus 75w90 synthetic. Had the truck level and it took three full quarts . More than what I thought . Maybe it wasn't perfectly level idk .
Don’t trust anyone who couldn’t take 2 mins to clean the outside of a cover or use that dumb twirly wrench and that seal is deff not going to work if it didn’t work the 1st Time god dam people are dumb
This is a perfect example of how to do a youtube video. No need to talk for 10 minutes with your dog barking in the background before you start working. Thank you.
agree, is why i subscribe to his videos.
Don't forget the bird's chirping 🐦
And no blaring techno or rap music
Completely agree. Just do it. No need to give me your family history and what you had for dinner. Kudos to MasterJacks.
I was always taught to remove your drain plug first to make sure it wasn’t sealed before draining the fluid
That’s what I’m going to do to make damn sure it hasn’t done anything funky before doing all the work then stuck 😂
At least it was a pretty clean cover and plug. Up here in Michigan, those two pieces often get salt welded together!!!!😂🤣 I don’t even mess with it. I throw a new cover and gasket on. It gives it “I service my crap” look!😂🤣😂
I did my 18 last year and it was straight forward. I also reused the gasket and did not use the sealer. No leaks or issues to report as long as the bolts are torqued correctly. Filled with AMSOIL severe gear. Such an easy job. Maintenance is key and these truck will last a long time.
I have an '11 and I'm going through changing all the fluids. Transmission woke up and the engine is smooth. I can see why people like these trucks
They say the perfect how-to video doesn’t exist... This is great!
Step the first: Try to loosen the fill plug. If it doesn't come out, STOP what you are doing and address this first. I like the video, helped me on my 07 sierra.
Super concise and straightforward. Great video, man.
Perfect video I just changed my 2011's rear differential because your video made it easy
Fantastic video. All work, no fluff like extra talking or music and what not
Good video! The only thing I would recommend people to do differently would be to use a plastic putty knife instead of a metal to remove old gasket. Don't want to risk scraching the machined surface.
Love this channel. Just found it and I'm now subscribed. Easy to follow and great visuals!
I just did this on a 2011 Sierra. Awesome video man, really helpful.
I appreciate the straight to business video. Thank you sir! 👍
I like that straight to the point,not a bunch of talking
I agree perfect video. Brief and informative. Very nice seeing specific sizes before I dive in.
Great video bro!! YOU ARE THE MAN!!! Please keep this up. I’d like to see cv axles and maybe some greasing of bearings or some re lubricating important sections of this truck
Great video my guy! Because Of this helpful video Was able to do my own on my 2013 Chevrolet Silverado LT easy 4 x 4. It literally took 20 minutes. The longest part was filling it back up
Has a sound come to you after a change or is everything normal?
@@khaledkaram2248 did u have a sound after changing the fluid?
@@zl1camaro100 So far, no, because I am very hesitant
Best informative video video I have ever seen great job
Hate to burst everyone’s bubble…remove the fill plug, use a siphon hose to drain 95% of the fluid…fill and call it done. No gasket work needed
Thanks for making this...exactly what I needed
Dude, Nailed it. Please make more videos.
The only thing that you need to do is after ‘filling’ the rear diff, put the truck at a slight incline, passenger side down first, then drivers side, for a few minutes each, then go back, add more gear oil. This is in the service manual.
Thanks for the video and information. My owners manual was useless!
Best instructional video.
Man Thank You for posting up this video this pass weekend before New Years eve December 31, 2021 I went to a major name brand service outlet that does a variety of odds and ends to vehicles ain't going to say there name but they known national, anyway they gave me a doggone quote of over $900 and sum change dollars to do exactly what you just done, well correction of what I also done this pass week myself now.... I did let them do my alignment and tire and rotation which price wise was budgeted just ✅right, but, when I saw that quote just for the differential change my eyes 👀😳 lit up I was like or y'all out of your "Pucking" mind 🤯... I won't be able to eat for a few weeks if I got to pay that, and besides I had already bought the material oil, gasket, even the spray clean off etc. And the guy said it's still going to be $900 and sum change he said nothing he can do because Corp sets the prices but yeah I save a ton of money all because of your video what's your linking I like to buy you a ice cold beer and lunch or something..I'm just trying to keep my knock on wood running long e until we are all forced to buy electric vehicles or EV trucks..keep more videos coming..I was afraid I was going to have to stock up on noodles and crackers for a month and disconnect my cable L😆l good golly they was trying to stick it to me like my name was wally sitting in lock with ronnie
I sat with my milwak impact for 30 mins didn’t budge a bolt on my diff, and this dudes doing it just fine wtf
What's the best oil to use because i have a 05 Silverado that i need to do the rear differential oil change and this is the first time I'm going to do it. Thank you
Great video
Nice video! Also, will the service manual tell you what kind of info you need about fill volume? Or is it necessary to follow the “leaking out of the fill plug” level check? And will the manual also tell you what size your ring gear is?
@@Jaegar-z2j no matter the size of ring gear, fill it to about 1/2" below the fill hole. This one was overfilled letting it run out
I usually remove the fill plug first
1987jeepyj you're doing it all wrong then
Its a sealed dif bro
348frank348 the fill plug bolt can be rusted to the point beyond removal
Good point. If you can't loosen/remove the fill plug. STOP and go to Plan B. Repair/Replace diff cover.
Yeah that's the right way
I wonder why the front diff has a fill plug and a drain plug but the rear just has a fill plug....?
Because the front diff is a pain in the ass
Should always verify the fill plug can be removed before draining.
@@grominwithrob1339 good call
@@MasterJacksThat cover was in better shape than 90% of them I see though. Probably because I am up in Michigan!😂😂😂
Reuse same gasket?
Pretty simple, thanks guys!
Just cuz I don't wanna mess with the gasket and risk of doing it wrong or leaks I'm sticking a tube in there and pumping out as much fluid as I can. Trucks been babied so I should be fine.
Nice and simple..
Thx!
At what mileage is this recommended?
What differential is this whats the name of it ?
What was the torque numbers
I just change the fluid on my 2007 Silverado i pour 3 quarts and it didn't spill out the hole, do I still need to some more oil?
You want to add fluid until it's about a 1/2" below the fill hole.
@@MasterJacks holy crap the I think I over filled it.... thanks now I need to find a way to take some oil out with out removing the cover
My 2008 (2wd) Silverado is sitting at 160k miles. Recently replaced all fluids, replaced all suspension parts, about to tackle the spark plugs this weekend. Was wondering if doing this job along with spark plugs would be needed/recommended. Thanks!
It's a good idea to do the rear diff fluid approx every 30k. You can get away with longer if it doesn't do much towing or get too hot. If it hasn''t been done before, I would recommend doing it. (A revisement to the video, fill it to about a 1/4" below the fill hole rather than until you see fluid running out.) Thanks for watching!
MasterJacks I do little to no towing, it’s 2wd and at 160k miles I have never done it in the 60k miles I’ve owned it. What would changing it and not changing it affect?
@@Abyss0206 I would change it. As gears and bearings wear and fluid deteriorates, the grime has no place to go. You might start seeing pinion or wheel bearing seal leaks. That grime can also get into bearings and cause premature failure. It's all preventative, so it's your call, but could be saving you heartache in the long run.
I am a lot hesitant because it may make sounds after switching oil
Thank you 👍🏽
How important is to do this it saves a lot of money and time thanks for your help
It's important in preventing seal leaks and gear wear. Frequency depends on type of driving/towing. 30-50k miles is normal.
When do you know its time to do this?
Typically every 30-60k somewhere depending on the heat and tow load.
If you don't know when it was done. Do it soon as a Zero step. And from there as M-J said 30-60K depending on the work
load.
Perfect video
Do you also spray off the inside of the differential with brake cleaner?
I personally didn't think it was necessary, but it evaporates so quick it probably wouldn't hurt anything if you did. Don't get it up into the pinion area though, seals don't like it.
So that's a no lol
g80 limited slip?
How many miles does gear oil last??
It's recommended to be changed every 30-60k depending on the type of driving (highway vs towing/city)
Wondering why you used gasket maker when the gasket is metal with a silicon bead all around?
Carmelo Franchina. I think the gasket by itself would be just fine. I added a thin layer (not even a bead) just as a precaution.
Please Torq specs?
I'll just put pump hose down fill plug and drain most. Fill again, drive a while and do it again lol
can u clean the differential gear with that cleaner?
You could, but you risk diluting what oil may be left in there. It's also hard on seals if you accidentally over spray. It does evaporate quickly so the risk is pretty minimal.
Yes I cleaned mine with brake cleaner. It runs out the bottom of the case. I used a rag to clean the standing fluid that was left and let it air dry for an hour to make sure everything evaporated. Filled with AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR. won’t have to touch it for 100k miles.
Factory fill .400 down from fill hole?
Yes, a half inch below the hole is a good place to be. This one got a little overfilled.
How many quarts do you put back in
What was being sprayed on the plate?
It's called "Brake Clean". You can ask for it at the auto parts store. It's a light solvent that dissolves oil and grease and evaporates quickly. You could also use soap and water to accomplish the same thing. Just rinse it off good and dry it when you're done.
Around how much should a shop charge for this
oldmcdonal D it's around and hour of labor plus parts, guessing $125-150.
MasterJacks what all would you recommend be done to a 2011 Silverado with 117k miles maintenance wise
oldmcdonal D Based on mileage and age, not knowing the service history, I would say it's ready for all fluids and an ignition system tune up. If it were mine, I'd prioritize it as follows: transmission flush & filter, coolant, gear cases (rear diff, t-case, front diff), power steering fluid, brake fluid, plugs w/ wires, throttle body clean, and injector service. Deteriorating rubber might necessitate radiator hoses and a serpentine drive belt. A major 100k service can get spendy (like $1500+) at a local garage. I would do my transmission first, then do the others in what you feel an appropriate time frame and order. Hope that's helpful!
MasterJacks yes extremely helpful thanks so much! Looking forward to your future vids!
looks like you could stick a hose thru the fill plug and suck out 90% then just refill in 5 min anyone done this?
The gear oil is pretty thick. It's a job pushing clean stuff out of a new bottle. If you had a neumatic pump it might not be too bad. Let us know if you try and how it goes!
did it. worked perfect. 75-90 mobil 1
GunsCarsBikeCigars glad to hear
I have the evacuator pneumatic pump and it works phenomenal. But I'm just worried that it won't get all of it and as you seen in his video how he pulled out some of that bottom sludge.
Not a lot of talking. Just a whole lot of doing. 👍🏻
You forgot to mentioned that it needs 2.75 quarts of oil.
It's in the description and also at the 2:32 mark...appears you forgot to pay attention, LOL.
What size socket needed?
13mm or 1/2" for cover bolts
@@MasterJacks thanks for fast reply. I tried 13mm and it's too small? Tried 14mm and too big?
It's driving me crazy lol
@@alamo84 shoot, you might try a half inch, it's equivalent to a 13mm. Or maybe try a 6 or 12 point socket and see if it fits any different...🤷🏻♂️
You don’t need to do the gasket maker if you buy a new gasket right
You're right, it's not needed. I'm just paranoid and hate leaks so I put a very light film on there for insurance.
thanks, 20 ft. lbs,just what i needed???
Good up until you put all that RTV on it. There is a reason GM engineers recommend dry install with re usable gaskets. Just sayin
You. Overfilled it read your manual, or and gm,service manual,or TSB on axles never fill to the hole. Causes more heat MUST be 1/2 inch below when cold. And that's with it on level surface--
Thanks Richard
Verbiage as found in the Owner's Manual: "To get an accurate reading, the vehicle should be on a level surface. For all 4.3 L, 4.8 L and 5.3 L 1500 Series applications, the proper level is 1.0 mm to 19.0 mm (0.04 in to 0.7 in) below the bottom of the fill hole, located on the rear axle. Add only enough fluid to reach the proper level."
MasterJacks well after 42 years in dealerships doing rear axles and automatic transmissions. I have read lots of TSB"s and manuals all state check and fill on level surface and as you found in your manual..1mm-19 mm is good 19 mm is 3/4 inch so a good spot cold and level is 1/2 inch BELOW fill plug.But when on jack stands it's WAY to full and this causes excessively air and foam in oil witch won't show up as problems with average use(other than pinion seal leakage) but will destroy HD semi rear ends manufactured by Easton, Rockwell ,spicer, the effects are similar to liner pitting on diesels and skating of side bearings if extremely overfilled.
Richard Johnson, that's a great post. Thanks for sharing your experience!
How do I tell if I'm 1/2 inch before spillage ? At a cold temp?
So you dont need to let the sealer cure for 24 hours ?
Depends on the application, but I haven't had a problem with adding oil to gear cases post-assembly (approx 15min). Most silicones say to wait an hour before adding fluid, 24 to fully cure. I've added fluid within 5 min many times and haven't had leaks.
@@MasterJacks mine said 1 hour then tourge to specs so I did that and added fluid right after I also did as you with the gasket maker and reused the original gasket . Mine is also a 2011 , same rear end .
No leaks , I did use a different lube . I used lucus 75w90 synthetic. Had the truck level and it took three full quarts . More than what I thought . Maybe it wasn't perfectly level idk .
FIRST....FIRST THING I DO,,,,IS REMOVE FILLER PLUG...
What kinda bubba head oil was that 🤦🏻♂️
Don’t trust anyone who couldn’t take 2 mins to clean the outside of a cover or use that dumb twirly wrench and that seal is deff not going to work if it didn’t work the 1st Time god dam people are dumb
Perfect video I just changed my 2011's rear differential because your video made it easy