I cannot fathom how long it took you to figure this out, but it was incredibly generous of you to share. Aside from that, your presentation skills and video production work are outstanding! Keep up the magnificent work.
I recently picked up this machine and I am new to the laser world. Used within its limits I find it a great little machine. The downside, now I want a Fiber Laser to do the things this has given me the inspiration to do! Thank you for this tutorial, now I have to get some of these Brass coins and start playing!
I agree with you on a two want a fiber laser. I have a CO2 for Xtool the P2. I have the F1. I have a way and a 14-watt diode laser. The only thing really missing is fiber laser. However, a MOPA fiber laser is pretty expensive lol. 60w is like $4,400 depending where you get it.. but it's my next one lol.
That was very neat to see done, and your explanation. I just purchased a D1, and have absolutely no clue what I'm doing. Pretty inspiring stuff! Thank you
very good, I wanted to ask you if you could make a video of the Xtool F1, for engraving on steel to obtain the same or similar effect. I tried but with poor results.Grazie.
Thank you so much for the support! I have played a little bit with the image on stainless steel that you can see on my review of the machine around the 13 minute mark. ruclips.net/video/kqnkyweErJM/видео.html However it still needed to be dialed in but what I would suggest is running some power/speed test in Creative Space to see what gives you light or dark marks on stainless steel. Then for something like the coin I would first lay down a layer of white that encompassed the whole image and then a layer of black for the image over that. One the brash I was really trying to blend multiple colors but since stainless is different and shinny it might take a little bit different approach. Hope this helps and that again for the support!
Just got mine it's great, I use lightburn with my other lasers but with this one I used their software and it sucks, very slow software when using lightburn with the f1 there is no framing like creative space has
Dude that's awesome. I had no idea that you could erase the coin like you're talking about or that you could remove dark spots like you didn't at the end. I did want to say that if you got the slide extension for this you can do multiples at once. He could even make a jig that would hold each ones there in the exact same spot each time.
Thank you for this. I tried the same brass coins and could barely see the design with xTool's recommended settings. The whole reason I bought the F1 was for IR/metal. I will try your technique to see if I can get some contrast.
Really good video. I wonder if it would work similarly on the S1 with the IR laser option? Just ordered mine. Hasn't got here yet. I hope I eventually understand all the settings in the depth you do.
You should be able to achieve the same effect but the settings will be different as the S1 can't move at the same speeds since the whole laser moves since it's not a galvo laser. I don't know the settings off of the top of my head but you should be able to figure it out with some power and speed tests.
This multiple step process is really awesome, definitely give more depth to the design !! How did you figured out which step to proceed and in what order ?? Thank you !!!!
hi thanks for your very interesting video, I ask you at the end of the video do you say that it is possible to process everything by correct levels? but process them all at the same time or one at a time like your video procedures?
Essentially if you place all of the different jobs that I ran in different layers you could run the whole job at the same time. I never set it up like that but there is not reason why you couldn't.
Magnificent video, I love the results I am seeing when I try this, Question for you. When I try to 'clean' a coin Ie put it back as if nothing was etched, I can get some fadeing, but not really a clean coin, any tricks that may help me make some of my tests useable again?
This is really amazing. I'm missing something fundamental, though. For the darkest areas you burn several times with the laser, but the last pass hits white areas like the forehead and makes it lighter instead of darker. I'm not quite understanding.
It all about dot duration and power. The longer the dot stays is one spot and the power is high the mark will be black. By increasing the speed and lowering the power I'm essentially removing the dark lines which is why it looks like it's turning white. It's also just what happens to the surface at those speeds and power. Some marks can be light and some can be dark. That's why it's important to run tests to see what configuration gives you what result.
You mention you can wipe the coin clean with a white circle, but if it is white only runs for a second or do we need to invert the white circle, so it is black and keep the standard settings?
Great demo of the equipment. Where did you pick up the technique? That was very cool. Will that work on Wood as well. Or is this unique to Metal and using the IR? Thanks a Mil
that is a very nice looking 2.5 D relief, Thanks for this because this is the area I am interested in getting into. Coins, and is it worth the time and $ to start ...
I you really want to get into coins and make real 3D engravings in them I would suggest looking into fiber lasers. It may take a while but the effect and finished product looks amazing.
I know how to create 3d models, but I don't know how to draw in raster or vector programs. Can a laser machine accept a .stl file with the correct dimensions (e.g. 0.25 mm engraving depth)? Or do I need a vector or raster file?
You can't use an STL directly with xTool Creative Space. You would have to figure out a different method to render the stl so you can use it as an image. Also this type of machine will not be able to actually engrave depth into the surface. For that you would need a more powerful Fiber Laser .
complimenti per l'ottimo lavoro e spiegazione, ho appena acquistato questo incisore, mi pare di capire che può anche incidere con diversi colori, tipo galvanica, giusto? grazie mille e complimenti
You mention being able to start over if you needed to by remarking the brass. Can you describe the settings you would use to do this? Basically, I've got a very one-of-a-kind brass item that I marked with the F1, and I'd like to clear it and start over with it.
When talking about wiping it clean I'm essentially doing a white pass over the whole thing. I believe it was a dot duration of 200 and power of 80. This will clean up the coin by removing any dark spots but might take a few passes. It will not put the brass back to it original shine however. To do that you could use a brass brush on a Dremel tool or something to that affect to polish it back to the original shine.
Spoofing a contour grading that light burn can do. I assume this because your can’t do much with the xtool as it is bound to the software, Like Cricuts are with design space?
You should be able to. Just right click on the image in Lightburn and choose adjust image. Then play with the Contrast, Brightness, and Gamma settings to achieve essentially the same effect.
Very cool. I know this level of Engraving doesn't have any level of depth, but I've always wondered if it can leave marks that'll be picked up in injection molding. My thinking was that you can have a coin mold and use thin brass inserts to swap out with that coin you're making is. I'm pretty sure the copper wouldn't have anything deep enough for the plastic to pick up. Or at least not anything desirable. But I just can't help thinking about it.
This would be true of a fiber laser for sure. I have plans to test that soon on a 30W fiber laser I have on the way but again these with this machine are just for looks.
Essentially you can use a full wipe of the white pass and it will eventually clean the coin off after enough passes. I don't remember the settings off the top of my head but it would be the same as the first or last pass in the video.
Just purchased the F1 and tried to replicate your method, but was disappointed in my results. Could it be a difference in quality of the brass in the coins?
I'm not 100% sure. I would also be sure that you have set the height correctly and are using the correct laser. Everything should be with the IR laser.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks. I did double-check that I was using the IR for each layer, and that the height was set correctly. So maybe it's the coins themselves. I ordered some from your Amazon link and will re-try with those. Fingers crossed!
The laser wavelengths and power are the same so you should be able to. The speeds will be different since one is a galvo laser and one is not so the S1 will be slower.
i was wondering if you have an email I could talk to you at, I need to laser some stuff but cannot afford one so I thought I could ask if you could do it for me! Thanks
While I don't commission jobs at this time I would suggest joining some of the laser engraving Facebook groups where I have no doubt you can find someone who is willing to some jobs for you.
Just like with any metal...different speeds and different powers give you different results. That's why it's so important to run power/speed tests on new materials so you understand what power/speed does what.
The new lions head they are advertising is with the F1 Ultra. That is their new Fiber laser that can make things like that coin. Not this F1 with a much less powerful IR laser.
Different machine, different use case. I can't put my CO2 machine in my luggage and take it to craft fairs. It's not cheap but still for what it does it's impressive.
You thumbnail is a little clickbait’ish, making seem like it is a deep engraving. Unfortunately it is a real challenge coin. The laser doesn’t have the power to deep engrave like a fiber laser.
You realize that is incredibly cheap for what it does & that if you start a business with it you can write it off, right? It is a tool purchase. Could pay for itself. With the smoke purifier, you can bring this thing anywhere. Money all day, on the spot, engraving anything for people.
@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 We use this and a fiber laser to make and engrave anything. That's laser-able. The F1 is great for small markings and paired with a Fiber you can make almost anything.
@@GarlandFarms Yes, most times. Mopa is a system of function that some fiber lasers can have. Most commonly JPT laser sources. I classify lasers into these main categories Gantry or Galvo then CO2, Fiber, UV. Do you own a laser or thinking about getting on?
This is a 2W IR laser. In no world is this as powerful as a 60W fiber. Just showing what you can do with what you have if you bought one of these machines.
I cannot fathom how long it took you to figure this out, but it was incredibly generous of you to share. Aside from that, your presentation skills and video production work are outstanding! Keep up the magnificent work.
Thank you very much! That was very kind and gracious of you. Happy to help and I am always appreciative of the support.
I recently picked up this machine and I am new to the laser world. Used within its limits I find it a great little machine. The downside, now I want a Fiber Laser to do the things this has given me the inspiration to do! Thank you for this tutorial, now I have to get some of these Brass coins and start playing!
Fiber lasers are great. This is a nice little stepping stone for a fiber laser.
I agree with you on a two want a fiber laser. I have a CO2 for Xtool the P2. I have the F1. I have a way and a 14-watt diode laser. The only thing really missing is fiber laser. However, a MOPA fiber laser is pretty expensive lol. 60w is like $4,400 depending where you get it.. but it's my next one lol.
Thanks for sharing! Got a few of these blank coins recently and with my method they turned out "eh." With your method they turned out awesome!
Thank you so much for the Super Thanks. That was very nice of you. I'm glad I could help!
Have you tried silver?
Thank you kind sir. Taking the time to teach and share is so kind of you.
Thank you so much! I really appreciate it! Glad you liked it.
Fantastic video by someone who really knows his trade! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
From ordinary to Extraordinary. Bravo,Bravo,Bravo
Many thanks!
That was very neat to see done, and your explanation. I just purchased a D1, and have absolutely no clue what I'm doing. Pretty inspiring stuff! Thank you
Thanks. Don't worry, just about 2 and a half years ago I had never used a laser either. You'll get it!
Very nice tutorial on how u made it!
I can't wait to see the rest of your videos.
Im happy with my F1, itceiuld hsve been nice with 5 or 10W on the IR
Thank you. It's up now if you would like to check it out. ruclips.net/video/kqnkyweErJM/видео.html
Thanks!
Thank you so much for the support! I really appreciate the gesture and thanks for watching.
Great video. Wife and I just ordered the F1. Excited
Congrats. Hope you like it!
Great video! I’m impressed with your knowledge to understand how to achieve the desired results.
Danke!
Thank you so much. I really appreciate the support! It was very kind of you so thank you once again.
Brilliant - answers a lot. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Glad it was helpful!
very good, I wanted to ask you if you could make a video of the Xtool F1, for engraving on steel to obtain the same or similar effect. I tried but with poor results.Grazie.
Thank you so much for the support! I have played a little bit with the image on stainless steel that you can see on my review of the machine around the 13 minute mark. ruclips.net/video/kqnkyweErJM/видео.html
However it still needed to be dialed in but what I would suggest is running some power/speed test in Creative Space to see what gives you light or dark marks on stainless steel. Then for something like the coin I would first lay down a layer of white that encompassed the whole image and then a layer of black for the image over that. One the brash I was really trying to blend multiple colors but since stainless is different and shinny it might take a little bit different approach. Hope this helps and that again for the support!
Freaking cool! Thank you. Had no idea about this process!
Happy to help!
*Thank you!* I can't wait to try this out. Much appreciated,
You're welcome, glad you found it helpful!
Great video. Straight to the point
Thanks for watching!
Just ordered one last week, don't know when I'll be getting it, hopefully it won't take too long
Same bro
Just got it, and it's awesome!👌
Just got mine it's great, I use lightburn with my other lasers but with this one I used their software and it sucks, very slow software when using lightburn with the f1 there is no framing like creative space has
Absolutely stunning 🤩
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
Dude that's awesome. I had no idea that you could erase the coin like you're talking about or that you could remove dark spots like you didn't at the end. I did want to say that if you got the slide extension for this you can do multiples at once. He could even make a jig that would hold each ones there in the exact same spot each time.
Thanks. I do have the slide extension so maybe I’ll give that a try some day.
@@BusterBeagle3D I mean if you could offset the coin so it kind of a zigzag you could fit more on the plate too. I don't know just spitballing lol.
This is amazing technique thx for sharing
Thank you for this. I tried the same brass coins and could barely see the design with xTool's recommended settings. The whole reason I bought the F1 was for IR/metal. I will try your technique to see if I can get some contrast.
Sounds great. Would love to know how it turns out.
My coins came in so looking to make some coins! Thanks for the insight!
No worries. Good luck!
Fantastic tutorial. Best I've seen
Thank you! Appreciate it!
That was pretty cool...Good job!
Thank you!
Really good video. I wonder if it would work similarly on the S1 with the IR laser option? Just ordered mine. Hasn't got here yet. I hope I eventually understand all the settings in the depth you do.
You should be able to achieve the same effect but the settings will be different as the S1 can't move at the same speeds since the whole laser moves since it's not a galvo laser. I don't know the settings off of the top of my head but you should be able to figure it out with some power and speed tests.
This multiple step process is really awesome, definitely give more depth to the design !! How did you figured out which step to proceed and in what order ?? Thank you !!!!
Thank you. Lots of trial and error but mostly trial :)
Nice tutorial and easy to understand. Would I use those settings for any image 3d like that ?
Amazing technique! By tye way, does the software allows to write some sort of script? It would be great to implement your method.
A lot of work, but the result seems impressive! Thanks
Thank you. Like I said it could all probably be set to do it all at once but this was really to explain the whole process.
Is there any finish you could put on it to make it "pop" Like rub and buff?
hi thanks for your very interesting video, I ask you at the end of the video do you say that it is possible to process everything by correct levels? but process them all at the same time or one at a time like your video procedures?
Essentially if you place all of the different jobs that I ran in different layers you could run the whole job at the same time. I never set it up like that but there is not reason why you couldn't.
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks, i have try with steel hearts but I think the settings for "white" are slightly different I'm not sure how to correct them
Magnificent video, I love the results I am seeing when I try this, Question for you. When I try to 'clean' a coin Ie put it back as if nothing was etched, I can get some fadeing, but not really a clean coin, any tricks that may help me make some of my tests useable again?
Try sanding with a sanding sponge. They work great at getting the coins back to original. Something like this: amzn.to/4aVT5Ar
Creative logo!👏
Subscribed!!! great video!!!
Thanks for the sub!
This is really amazing. I'm missing something fundamental, though. For the darkest areas you burn several times with the laser, but the last pass hits white areas like the forehead and makes it lighter instead of darker. I'm not quite understanding.
It all about dot duration and power. The longer the dot stays is one spot and the power is high the mark will be black. By increasing the speed and lowering the power I'm essentially removing the dark lines which is why it looks like it's turning white. It's also just what happens to the surface at those speeds and power. Some marks can be light and some can be dark. That's why it's important to run tests to see what configuration gives you what result.
You mention you can wipe the coin clean with a white circle, but if it is white only runs for a second or do we need to invert the white circle, so it is black and keep the standard settings?
Question, can you get a 3D effect on other materials, say fine grain woods, lexan. ..
Very cool video my friend :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice and clean looking. I have some questions is there another platform we can communicate on? Thanks
Can this method be used for stainless steel?
Very cool, definitely going to try your method. The Mario dog tag is cool, are you going to do a tutorial on that as well ?
Great demo of the equipment. Where did you pick up the technique? That was very cool. Will that work on Wood as well. Or is this unique to Metal and using the IR? Thanks a Mil
Thank you. It is specific to metal on the machine and it’s a technique I came up with through some good ole fashioned trial and error.
@@BusterBeagle3D Wow that was awesome then. THanks for getting back with me
that is a very nice looking 2.5 D relief, Thanks for this because this is the area I am interested in getting into. Coins, and is it worth the time and $ to start ...
I you really want to get into coins and make real 3D engravings in them I would suggest looking into fiber lasers. It may take a while but the effect and finished product looks amazing.
Nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
So awesome! I want to make one! Where can I get a blank like this ?
There is a link in the description to those coins. amzn.to/3PKVQwo
@@BusterBeagle3Dyour amazing thank you!
I know how to create 3d models, but I don't know how to draw in raster or vector programs. Can a laser machine accept a .stl file with the correct dimensions (e.g. 0.25 mm engraving depth)? Or do I need a vector or raster file?
You can't use an STL directly with xTool Creative Space. You would have to figure out a different method to render the stl so you can use it as an image. Also this type of machine will not be able to actually engrave depth into the surface. For that you would need a more powerful Fiber Laser .
complimenti per l'ottimo lavoro e spiegazione, ho appena acquistato questo incisore, mi pare di capire che può anche incidere con diversi colori, tipo galvanica, giusto? grazie mille e complimenti
It can make colors in stainless steel mostly and takes some practice but it is possible.
tante grazie@@BusterBeagle3D
How durable is the engraving if carried in the pocket?
It seems pretty durable. It's not a deep mark into the surface but I can't wipe it off either.
How long did it actually take for each pass? Thank you.
I think the longest pass was about 5 minutes.
How about a permanent print? I think this one can be erase
You could probably sand it off but it's not going to simply wipe off.
You mention being able to start over if you needed to by remarking the brass. Can you describe the settings you would use to do this? Basically, I've got a very one-of-a-kind brass item that I marked with the F1, and I'd like to clear it and start over with it.
When talking about wiping it clean I'm essentially doing a white pass over the whole thing. I believe it was a dot duration of 200 and power of 80. This will clean up the coin by removing any dark spots but might take a few passes. It will not put the brass back to it original shine however. To do that you could use a brass brush on a Dremel tool or something to that affect to polish it back to the original shine.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you!
@@BusterBeagle3D My result was great for the brass shell casings. Thank you so much for your help!
Spoofing a contour grading that light burn can do. I assume this because your can’t do much with the xtool as it is bound to the software, Like Cricuts are with design space?
Was wondering if the same could be done on a LaserPecker LP4 Deluxe Dual-Laser Engraver
I don't have that machine but my guess is the process might be very similar.
Can this machine engrave on porcelain?
Can I get the same resul with gold (not plated) and silver? Thanks
If that's all it did to that brass coin it probably wouldn't work on tool steel? I am a Ironworker and hoped to use it on my spud wrenches.
how long did it take to engrave that coin?
Epic, I have to 20 of these. Thank you
You're welcome!
The results are amazing. Did you use the prepared or original image for this project?
I did this all from the original
Would anyone be able to reproduce those steps using LightBurn software? What would be Dot Duration? And Dpi ?
You should be able to. Just right click on the image in Lightburn and choose adjust image. Then play with the Contrast, Brightness, and Gamma settings to achieve essentially the same effect.
Very cool. I know this level of Engraving doesn't have any level of depth, but I've always wondered if it can leave marks that'll be picked up in injection molding. My thinking was that you can have a coin mold and use thin brass inserts to swap out with that coin you're making is. I'm pretty sure the copper wouldn't have anything deep enough for the plastic to pick up. Or at least not anything desirable. But I just can't help thinking about it.
This would be true of a fiber laser for sure. I have plans to test that soon on a 30W fiber laser I have on the way but again these with this machine are just for looks.
Does this do more of an etch vs cutting depth into the metal?
The IR laser is pretty low power so this is really just marking the surface on the metal.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you.
How long did it take?
Would you be willing to engrave a small piece of brass around same size both sides?
how coooool it is
Thanks!
Question: it is posible to 3d engrave metal with this or not enough power? If then what is the cheapest laser engraver for Desktop that can do that?
No it is not. You would need a fiber laser. The higher the wattage the better for 3D engraving.
@@BusterBeagle3D hi thank you then what is the cheapest model for amateur desktop setup that you recommend?
What settings do you use to "whipe the coin"?
Essentially you can use a full wipe of the white pass and it will eventually clean the coin off after enough passes. I don't remember the settings off the top of my head but it would be the same as the first or last pass in the video.
Is it same for silver and other materials? Nice videos btw. You really good in those
I haven't tested it on silver but my guess is it would be similar. Also thank you for the kind words. I really appreciate it.
@@BusterBeagle3D Your welcome :-) You videos help a lot. Can you do it may? I know a lot of people would be interested in it.
I just get black -.-@@BusterBeagle3D
Would this method pretty much work the same with other Lazer
It should. As long as you are using an IR laser the method would be the same.
@BusterBeagle3D I have the P2 laser would this technique work with a CO2 laser?
Will it engrave on a watch dial eg put a logo on it.
It should. Again these are superficial marks but it should work.
About how long would this take in a single go with all your layers ready to go in a single sequence?
I haven’t set this up all in one go yet but I believe you are looking at about 4-5 minutes per layer.
@@BusterBeagle3D that’s really quick for that level of detail. Thanks dude!
Just purchased the F1 and tried to replicate your method, but was disappointed in my results. Could it be a difference in quality of the brass in the coins?
I'm not 100% sure. I would also be sure that you have set the height correctly and are using the correct laser. Everything should be with the IR laser.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks. I did double-check that I was using the IR for each layer, and that the height was set correctly. So maybe it's the coins themselves. I ordered some from your Amazon link and will re-try with those. Fingers crossed!
@@stoutcat Good luck!
@@BusterBeagle3D One more quick question: was your original image a raster or a vector image? I think that might make all the difference.
@@stoutcat The original image was a raster. I think it was a jpeg.
Does this work with a S1 2W1064?
The laser wavelengths and power are the same so you should be able to. The speeds will be different since one is a galvo laser and one is not so the S1 will be slower.
Great video, thank you. The audio compression is cursed.
That’s so cool dude, did you leave the dpi at 550 the whole time? I want to try to make that coin when I get my F1
Hello. Yes I left it at 550 the entire time. It's super detailed and looks even better in person.
@@BusterBeagle3D do you know if the Xtool mobile app is the same as working with a computer , I’ve looked on the website to find out but no luck
Would this work on leather?
Yes it can work on leather.
Do you have any settings that you can share for Hydbond leatherette to do an image like this and cut it out?@@BusterBeagle3D
How did you get a "blank" coin?
Got them here: amzn.to/3PKVQwo
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you
Wow
Thanks!
Hm, this one or the laserpecker 4
I haven't tried that one yet but they do have some similarities from what I have read.
Have you tried engraving, iPad, MacBook Pro and iPhones?
Lukas Flotzinger is the creator of Image
Thanks for mentioning that. I have the link in the description but never saw the name. Love your white tile method btw, have used it many times.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you
i was wondering if you have an email I could talk to you at, I need to laser some stuff but cannot afford one so I thought I could ask if you could do it for me! Thanks
While I don't commission jobs at this time I would suggest joining some of the laser engraving Facebook groups where I have no doubt you can find someone who is willing to some jobs for you.
I don't understand how it makes it white?
Just like with any metal...different speeds and different powers give you different results. That's why it's so important to run power/speed tests on new materials so you understand what power/speed does what.
Uhhh the color. How? I have an F1 and clearly have not unlocked the potential it has.
This is Actually Marking not Engraving... but i was a nice marking painfully slow, Actually Great Job any ways
*Uses AI images* "Gosh, who made this image? I can't find the credit and now it's pay-walled"
Besides that, this is a great tutorial!
It wasn't paywalled when I made it. It was only after filming but decided to show the process anyway.
def not the deep carving that xtool keeps advertising of the lions head. very cool though
The new lions head they are advertising is with the F1 Ultra. That is their new Fiber laser that can make things like that coin. Not this F1 with a much less powerful IR laser.
those are a lot of steps to edit for one thing no? o.O
You can't get a pretty nice CO2 laser for 1,800...
Different machine, different use case. I can't put my CO2 machine in my luggage and take it to craft fairs. It's not cheap but still for what it does it's impressive.
Williams Linda Brown Helen Miller John
You thumbnail is a little clickbait’ish, making seem like it is a deep engraving. Unfortunately it is a real challenge coin. The laser doesn’t have the power to deep engrave like a fiber laser.
That’s great and all, but it’s $1,800!!!!!!
Don't think they have even been accused of being cheap ;)
You realize that is incredibly cheap for what it does & that if you start a business with it you can write it off, right? It is a tool purchase. Could pay for itself. With the smoke purifier, you can bring this thing anywhere. Money all day, on the spot, engraving anything for people.
@@bestyoutubernonegraternumber1 We use this and a fiber laser to make and engrave anything. That's laser-able. The F1 is great for small markings and paired with a Fiber you can make almost anything.
@@thegiftdesigners
Do you consider mopa to be a fiber laser?
@@GarlandFarms Yes, most times. Mopa is a system of function that some fiber lasers can have. Most commonly JPT laser sources. I classify lasers into these main categories Gantry or Galvo then CO2, Fiber, UV. Do you own a laser or thinking about getting on?
shite no depth, you need minimum 60 watts
It looks to weak compared with 60W or you haven't used it till it full capacity. The result is not impressive at all. Sorry.
This is a 2W IR laser. In no world is this as powerful as a 60W fiber. Just showing what you can do with what you have if you bought one of these machines.