Regarding the leaf - the laser bleached the chlorophyll to the point of being translucent and didn't actually remove any material. Also, at 2:00 - I forgot to mention that you'll need to load the cor file in the device settings after connecting the machine to Lightburn. The cor file is provided on the usb drive as well.
Just got mine going tonight. Playing with some simple things and it works great. Is there a materials file available for the Omni 1? At least a starting point to go from.
First thanks for your very informative videos! I just received my ComMarker Omni UV laser. The focal distance printed on the sticker was not giving a good burn. I was always taught with a galvo laser to dial in the focus by doing a burn and moving the laser head up and down until you get the brightest and loudest burn. That is your focal distance. I did that and am now getting nice engraves. That distance I arrived at was over 100 mm less than the distance written on my laser head. It appears the distance you use matches the one written. Any ideas on why mine is so much different?? I’m using the 150mm lens. Thanks again for your videos.
Not a clue unless you were measuring at the wrong location like I did when first setting up. ComMarker's other lasers are measured to the bottom of the laser head case, but the focal distance for this needs to be measured to the seam in the middle of the laser head case. The original manual that I received didn't differentiate so I had to do as you did and adjusted the laser head down until I found the optimal distance. I later contacted ComMarker and they clarified and corrected their manual. Other than that, I couldn't tell you why. What's the focal distance written on your label?
You can overdo it with too much power or too little speed, but you're technically not 'burning' anything. Burning involves combustion. There is no combustion happening here. This marking/engraving process involves photochemical ablation. The 355nm wavelength breaks down chemical bonds directly without combustion, so there's no burning or thermal stress that can cause warping. Being a 'cold' laser means there's much less heat involved than with any other laser, which is why it uses a quarter of the power to do the same work. The difference between this machine and other laser types is similar to the difference between led's and incandescent. It can do the same job using much less power because it's not wasted on producing heat. Check the leaf again as an example. It didn't burn through it at all. No structural damage. All it did was bleach the chlorophyll in the cells. See the edges of the felt logo? No burns. Any other laser would've charred it. But it's powerful enough that you can also cut glass with it. I didn't show that here but other reviewers have and I'll be doing it in the next video. It removes material, but it doesn't combust material. That's the bottom line. How much boils down to the settings that you use. As shown, power, speed, frequency, pulse width are all adjustable just like any other laser (that has those options). You can cut straight through a chocolate treat, or adjust to fire the laser and barely do anything at all. UV lasers are critical tools where delicacy, precision, low emi and low thermal stress is essential, and are used in everything from culinary arts to medical equipment.
I don't think so, surface engraving only as far as I'm aware but I haven't asked or tried. I think what you're referring to requires a 3D subsurface engraver which uses a higher 532nm wavelength and are magnitudes more expensive.
So far, yes. I just finished cutting 3mm black acrylic with 5 passes at 5mm/s, 30 kHz, and 1 ns pulse width. It does produce grey edges though, like it does when marking and engraving black acrylic. I haven't yet tested clear, but I've got a couple more videos to make for this machine so I'll be sure to include those results when I do test it. CO2 lasers are generally the go-to for acrylics, but this machine is doing a fine job so far. I don't recommend cutting anything thicker than 3mm with any sort of galvo anyway, simply because of the conical nature of their work volume (think delta style 3d printers) and the angled cut edges it produces, unless that look works for the project, of course.
@JamesBiggar I noticed you engraved clear polycarbonate. It looked like you got real good results. The thing is, I have been told that you never want to engrave on polycarbonate because of it being very toxic. What is your experience? I'm guessing it wasn't that bad since you are still alive!😂 So far, I haven't hit the magic setting for clear acrylic. Cast acrylic does not engrave as well as extruded acrylic is what I have found with the Omni 1. For doing images, I really like "dither". In the past I have been a big fan of "Jarvis", and still am in certain situations.
Does this machine need an air purifier or enclosure? Also I noticed that there weren't any accessories for this machine, how much are the lens typically and do I have to get a lens from commarker only to work with this machine? Thank you!!
No enclosure is necessary if you wear the provided goggles. No air purifier is necessary unless you're engraving or cutting (ie removing material vs marking) and don't have adequate ventilation in your workspace. Accessories are sold separately as with all of their machines. Enclosures, air purifiers, rotaries, etc can be found on the accessory page of their site. As mentioned, a 150mm and 70mm lens are included with the machine and they sell replacements.
I've seen a review that claims it is not possible to engrave material when it is sitting on the base. The reviewer said the lifting table has to be used. Any truth to this?
As you can see in the video, that's not entirely true. The machine comes with a 150mm and 70mm lens. The 70mm lens for super fine detail has a focus distance that's too short for the laser head to lower to before the rails in the support column run out of room and stop. You need to use the lifting table to lift your material up to focus properly with that lens. The 150mm lens for general marking and engraving, which I used throughout the video, can be used without the lifting table. I only used the lifting table in the video when there was a risk of burning through and marking the work bed (base). The base is designed as the actual work bed, hence the threaded holes for fixtures to use for batch processing without the lifting table, I just don't like marking it up when I don't need to.
@@JamesBiggar Thanks. I have a Raycus Fiber Laser and use fixtures to run cards and such. I found his statement odd, however, I did miss that he mentioned the 70mm lens when he made that claim. I did not listen well. Thanks for the detailed explanation.
![The Ultimate UV Laser Engraver Test! Can the ComMarker Omni 1 Handle ANY Material? [Review]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/rZXZM_2uSI8/mqdefault.jpg)
![The Ultimate UV Laser Engraver Test! Can the ComMarker Omni 1 Handle ANY Material? [Review]](/img/tr.png)
Regarding the leaf - the laser bleached the chlorophyll to the point of being translucent and didn't actually remove any material. Also, at 2:00 - I forgot to mention that you'll need to load the cor file in the device settings after connecting the machine to Lightburn. The cor file is provided on the usb drive as well.
What a great, comprehensive video! Thank you so much for sharing!
Even though it’s a review video, it’s actually a great starter video for any uv laser!
This is such an in-depth review. Good job!
So professional as usual
Thanks James, one of the best content creators.
That’s a pretty cool device! The leaf turned out awesome.
Just ordered this thing. Thank you for a great review. Honestly, I wasn't aware there's a UV machine out there that's under $5000
There are many even in the higher power range
@ higher powered UV machines in same price range? Do tell…
@PickUpGamingwhere!?
Can anyone confirm if this machine works well engraving on Silver and Gold jewelry? Would love to see a video using the Omni on some jewelry.
Can't wait to see more videos on this machine!!!
With the tight beam width and it being UV it should manage photoresist PCBs quite well ? Maybe a test you could squeeze in next time ;)
Just got mine going tonight. Playing with some simple things and it works great. Is there a materials file available for the Omni 1? At least a starting point to go from.
Thank you for a great review!!!
Hello how r u …… how much machine cost and machine power and which materials can engraved and cut
How do you know the right dimensions to put in? Did you play with the settings?
Great video! Do you think this machine would cut refrigerator magnet stock?
Thanks for the video, I have a 10W UV laser, and it's one of the best tutorial I saw so far. Hope you'll do more in the future, Jeff
What laser do you have?
@@2dogs1car0pb Hi, I have a 10W JPT UV with a 110mm lens
Looks fantastic, but I can't afford one as much as I would love to have one. .maybe I can hit the Lottery!
Definitely a business investment, not just for fun.
Very very very nice can l buy this machine but how and how much and it need any special tranee for this
Perfect review. I just wish you tell us the time each piece took..
A few seconds to a few minutes. It's a galvo with a typical speed rating, so expect galvo processing times.
First thanks for your very informative videos! I just received my ComMarker Omni UV laser. The focal distance printed on the sticker was not giving a good burn. I was always taught with a galvo laser to dial in the focus by doing a burn and moving the laser head up and down until you get the brightest and loudest burn. That is your focal distance. I did that and am now getting nice engraves. That distance I arrived at was over 100 mm less than the distance written on my laser head. It appears the distance you use matches the one written. Any ideas on why mine is so much different?? I’m using the 150mm lens. Thanks again for your videos.
Not a clue unless you were measuring at the wrong location like I did when first setting up. ComMarker's other lasers are measured to the bottom of the laser head case, but the focal distance for this needs to be measured to the seam in the middle of the laser head case. The original manual that I received didn't differentiate so I had to do as you did and adjusted the laser head down until I found the optimal distance. I later contacted ComMarker and they clarified and corrected their manual. Other than that, I couldn't tell you why. What's the focal distance written on your label?
@ my bad. I was measuring wrong! Thanks!
Dope. Any detectable off-flavor on the chocolate, post lasering?
Nope. Like most lasers, uv lasers are just a form of light. Equivalent to leaving it in the sun, without melting it entirely.
@@JamesBiggar I mean, there's definitely the possibility of it becoming burnt, at least with other lasers.
You can overdo it with too much power or too little speed, but you're technically not 'burning' anything. Burning involves combustion. There is no combustion happening here. This marking/engraving process involves photochemical ablation. The 355nm wavelength breaks down chemical bonds directly without combustion, so there's no burning or thermal stress that can cause warping. Being a 'cold' laser means there's much less heat involved than with any other laser, which is why it uses a quarter of the power to do the same work. The difference between this machine and other laser types is similar to the difference between led's and incandescent. It can do the same job using much less power because it's not wasted on producing heat. Check the leaf again as an example. It didn't burn through it at all. No structural damage. All it did was bleach the chlorophyll in the cells. See the edges of the felt logo? No burns. Any other laser would've charred it. But it's powerful enough that you can also cut glass with it. I didn't show that here but other reviewers have and I'll be doing it in the next video. It removes material, but it doesn't combust material. That's the bottom line. How much boils down to the settings that you use. As shown, power, speed, frequency, pulse width are all adjustable just like any other laser (that has those options). You can cut straight through a chocolate treat, or adjust to fire the laser and barely do anything at all. UV lasers are critical tools where delicacy, precision, low emi and low thermal stress is essential, and are used in everything from culinary arts to medical equipment.
@@JamesBiggar Very cool. Thanks for your patient and detailed explanation.
the one with engraving Glass...will you give the line distance?
Is it easy to operate the machine?? And what the biggest size it can engrave?
So cool! Think you could etch a circuit board?
For sure.
cAN WE USE IT FOR JWELLARY HULL MARK ALSO
Does it work to engrave inside of a glass cube when the focal point lays within the glass?
I don't think so, surface engraving only as far as I'm aware but I haven't asked or tried. I think what you're referring to requires a 3D subsurface engraver which uses a higher 532nm wavelength and are magnitudes more expensive.
Can cut acrylic?
Pretty sure it cant
So far, yes. I just finished cutting 3mm black acrylic with 5 passes at 5mm/s, 30 kHz, and 1 ns pulse width. It does produce grey edges though, like it does when marking and engraving black acrylic. I haven't yet tested clear, but I've got a couple more videos to make for this machine so I'll be sure to include those results when I do test it. CO2 lasers are generally the go-to for acrylics, but this machine is doing a fine job so far. I don't recommend cutting anything thicker than 3mm with any sort of galvo anyway, simply because of the conical nature of their work volume (think delta style 3d printers) and the angled cut edges it produces, unless that look works for the project, of course.
@JamesBiggar I noticed you engraved clear polycarbonate. It looked like you got real good results. The thing is, I have been told that you never want to engrave on polycarbonate because of it being very toxic. What is your experience? I'm guessing it wasn't that bad since you are still alive!😂
So far, I haven't hit the magic setting for clear acrylic. Cast acrylic does not engrave as well as extruded acrylic is what I have found with the Omni 1.
For doing images, I really like "dither". In the past I have been a big fan of "Jarvis", and still am in certain situations.
Does this machine need an air purifier or enclosure? Also I noticed that there weren't any accessories for this machine, how much are the lens typically and do I have to get a lens from commarker only to work with this machine? Thank you!!
No enclosure is necessary if you wear the provided goggles. No air purifier is necessary unless you're engraving or cutting (ie removing material vs marking) and don't have adequate ventilation in your workspace. Accessories are sold separately as with all of their machines. Enclosures, air purifiers, rotaries, etc can be found on the accessory page of their site. As mentioned, a 150mm and 70mm lens are included with the machine and they sell replacements.
THE Omni 1 Laser Engraver how deep can it engrave can I drill a 5 mm hole in stainless steel ? 👍
I've seen a review that claims it is not possible to engrave material when it is sitting on the base. The reviewer said the lifting table has to be used. Any truth to this?
As you can see in the video, that's not entirely true. The machine comes with a 150mm and 70mm lens. The 70mm lens for super fine detail has a focus distance that's too short for the laser head to lower to before the rails in the support column run out of room and stop. You need to use the lifting table to lift your material up to focus properly with that lens. The 150mm lens for general marking and engraving, which I used throughout the video, can be used without the lifting table. I only used the lifting table in the video when there was a risk of burning through and marking the work bed (base). The base is designed as the actual work bed, hence the threaded holes for fixtures to use for batch processing without the lifting table, I just don't like marking it up when I don't need to.
@@JamesBiggar Thanks. I have a Raycus Fiber Laser and use fixtures to run cards and such. I found his statement odd, however, I did miss that he mentioned the 70mm lens when he made that claim. I did not listen well. Thanks for the detailed explanation.