hello, first of all, great video! I'd like to start with an open question: I'm a beginner in laser cutting but not in 3d printing, I've had an Ultimaker for 5-7 years and I'm happy with it, but now I have a new project that will require the creation of a lot of money coin and only metal money coin, I was wondering if you had any advice on the machine that would be best suited to my needs given my level. once again, thank you for this video
There are many brands to choose from but in your case I would say the real consideration is wattage. The higher the wattage the faster the coins will engrave. If you are not concerned about engraving in color on stainless you can steer clear of the MOPA lasers which will save you a good amount of money. I wouldn't go lower then 30W in your case and 60W is even better. While 20W can work I wouldn't want to rely on that if I was making lots of coins. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Can eva foam be used in a injector molding machine? How can I be able to ask you a few questions about injector molding machines? If I have to pay you I will. Please answer
Great job and thanks for the video. I do my registration marks on my jig and mark the coin with a fine sharpe pen. Which then wipes off with alcohol when completed. Also if you make the registration marks at 180 and 90 degrees. You can do either a horizontal or vertical flip of the coin. US Currency has a vertical flip and most of my customers request that when asked. Of course this would not work with a pass through embossing like you are doing here. But most of the coins I do are just engraved.
Thank you! I have done it with a sharpie as well but for this instance where even a fraction off is like a mile off I felt I had to be even more precise. Trust me I have about 9 failures of this coin to prove it. Not all because of the registration but a few of them that are just a hair off which is not as noticeable when you look with the naked eye but when I zoom in to take a video of the process it was. Also the mark is so lite that even though it looks like a deep burn on camera it pretty much buffs away during the cleaning process.
I just started doing research on fiber lasers to add fine detail to injection molds and am curious as to why you used the 20 watt laser instead of the 60 watt MOPA laser you reviewed a few months ago? Wouldn't the 60 watt have been much faster than the 20? Thank you for the video!
You are correct. I ended up doing one on that machine after as well and it did it in about a 1/3 of the time. I wanted to use this machine because it has a pretty large user group as well as it shows how it's possible with a 20W machine which I'm assuming a larger portion of the hobby space users use.
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Quick Question, I'm using the xtool brass coin which is apparently thicker than the coin you used. It measures at 4.32mm. My coin didn't cut through, is there a way to adjust the settings for this coin?
I watched your injection molding video, and really enjoyed it. After watching this one, I immediately subscribed. You make some great content that has helped me immensely with my new F1 Ultra! Do you have the STL for the aluminum block jig you made? I have been looking to make one like that and have the aluminum. I know I can just sketch it up in Fusion, but it would save me some time! It would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the sub! I ended up reaming out the holes a little larger so it would sit flush but this should get your started. drive.google.com/file/d/1ksjLBPcDd2_cW5Bono5OlW5Zt8LNc3OE/view?usp=drive_link
@@BusterBeagle3D I made it using your process and it came out AMAZING! This opens a whole new level of coin making for me! Thank you again! Now to design one myself 😵
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks . Thought that there was already a Hose INSIDE the Port for the CO2. So i Just Stick my Hose in and can fish IT from the INSIDE hole.
I don't know about Maya, but Blender would let me set up a node graph for getting the heightmap and I could probably use a ramp to improve the detail without putting it into the model.
Blender is a very impressive piece of software so I don’t doubt it could do some cool stuff like that. I’m just not as familiar with it then I am in Maya but maybe something to research more in the future.
I also do CAD and 3D printing in my “real job”. This id a cool way to bring that world into the laser-verse. Now to decide if I need the Ultra or if the regular F1 is enough🤔Any thoughts?
Nice. The original F1 is not a real fiber laser. Yes it has a 1064 nm laser but it's a much smaller diode source. It could never do something like these coins.
Hi. it's an aluminum block that I happened to have laying around. It doesn't need to be that big or even out of aluminum. It just needs to be some sort of flat metal that you can engrave about a mm or two into to be able to set the coin down. You can even search amazon for aluminum block and you will find some but again it could be a bracket you buy at a hardware store or a scrape piece from somewhere.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you, I appreciate the info and the coin is amazing, I knew we could make coins with the ultra, but never thought it could be this cool. I will have to learn 3d modeling now lol.
Is there any way you could show us how to use the burn tool to get the results you did? I have watched other tutorials and they don't seem to produce the results that you show here.
Hi. It just kind of becomes an art form when doing that. I personally like to duplicate the image and then burn tool on a copy so that I can always blend it into the original by erasing it away if I went too hard. I also sometimes will simply duplicate the layer and they set the layer to multiply in the blending options. Again erasing the sections that I don't want to multiply until I feel it looks good. Another good thing to do is to check the heightmap in the emboss preview in xTool Creative Space. It shows the image to you as a 3D model which is a great way to check and see if you have gone too far or if you want to exaggerate more on a certain area. Hope this helps.
Hi. The more I think about it since it's not original characters by me it's not something I would sell. It was created as fan art and freely distributed to anyone who wanted to make for themselves but not something I would market and sell.
I did one a while back with my dumb head on it. Not sure if I ever had it in a video but it was made pretty much the same way. drive.google.com/file/d/1JHg0L2Y9SxY2VLCosp-8531T0ZUARoqj/view?usp=sharing I also
Wow, you are pushing the limits sir!
Appreciate it and thanks for watching!
Beautifully crafted as always! Thanks for the video.
Thank you! Cheers!
Really amzing! I love all the videos you made with xTool! Inspire me a lot.
Thanks a lot! I appreciate you watching.
Oh, you folks with the F1 Ultras. 😱 Us “Diode Burners” sure do get jealous. 😤 But, this was an interesting video nonetheless, thanks.
Thanks for watching either way! Something to consider in the future.
Fascinating process. I don’t have an engraver but do have a couple 3d printers. I will check out your channel for more great info
Glad you enjoyed it!
That was an amazing project! Thanks for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is fabulous. Well done, sir.
Glad you liked it!
Love the detailed explanation - thank you!
You're very welcome!
hello, first of all, great video!
I'd like to start with an open question: I'm a beginner in laser cutting but not in 3d printing, I've had an Ultimaker for 5-7 years and I'm happy with it, but now I have a new project that will require the creation of a lot of money coin and only metal money coin, I was wondering if you had any advice on the machine that would be best suited to my needs given my level.
once again, thank you for this video
There are many brands to choose from but in your case I would say the real consideration is wattage. The higher the wattage the faster the coins will engrave. If you are not concerned about engraving in color on stainless you can steer clear of the MOPA lasers which will save you a good amount of money. I wouldn't go lower then 30W in your case and 60W is even better. While 20W can work I wouldn't want to rely on that if I was making lots of coins. Good luck and thanks for watching!
Very well done! Thanks for sharing the process.
Thank you! Cheers!
Can eva foam be used in a injector molding machine? How can I be able to ask you a few questions about injector molding machines? If I have to pay you I will. Please answer
Great job and thanks for the video. I do my registration marks on my jig and mark the coin with a fine sharpe pen. Which then wipes off with alcohol when completed. Also if you make the registration marks at 180 and 90 degrees. You can do either a horizontal or vertical flip of the coin. US Currency has a vertical flip and most of my customers request that when asked. Of course this would not work with a pass through embossing like you are doing here. But most of the coins I do are just engraved.
Thank you! I have done it with a sharpie as well but for this instance where even a fraction off is like a mile off I felt I had to be even more precise. Trust me I have about 9 failures of this coin to prove it. Not all because of the registration but a few of them that are just a hair off which is not as noticeable when you look with the naked eye but when I zoom in to take a video of the process it was. Also the mark is so lite that even though it looks like a deep burn on camera it pretty much buffs away during the cleaning process.
I just started doing research on fiber lasers to add fine detail to injection molds and am curious as to why you used the 20 watt laser instead of the 60 watt MOPA laser you reviewed a few months ago? Wouldn't the 60 watt have been much faster than the 20? Thank you for the video!
You are correct. I ended up doing one on that machine after as well and it did it in about a 1/3 of the time. I wanted to use this machine because it has a pretty large user group as well as it shows how it's possible with a 20W machine which I'm assuming a larger portion of the hobby space users use.
Quick Question, I'm using the xtool brass coin which is apparently thicker than the coin you used. It measures at 4.32mm. My coin didn't cut through, is there a way to adjust the settings for this coin?
That is a cool project!
Thank you!
Any chance on getting the stl for the tube holder? I'm still learning how to design
No worries. Link is in the video description.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you sir. Appreciate it!
I watched your injection molding video, and really enjoyed it. After watching this one, I immediately subscribed. You make some great content that has helped me immensely with my new F1 Ultra! Do you have the STL for the aluminum block jig you made? I have been looking to make one like that and have the aluminum. I know I can just sketch it up in Fusion, but it would save me some time! It would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for the sub! I ended up reaming out the holes a little larger so it would sit flush but this should get your started. drive.google.com/file/d/1ksjLBPcDd2_cW5Bono5OlW5Zt8LNc3OE/view?usp=drive_link
@@BusterBeagle3Dyou are a true gentleman and a scholar! I'm working on it this weekend! ❤️
@@BusterBeagle3D I made it using your process and it came out AMAZING! This opens a whole new level of coin making for me! Thank you again! Now to design one myself 😵
@@Joeythatoneguy Great to hear. I would love to see what you come up with.
Wow great. Thank you.
Are you be willing to make a video how you implemented the airasist hose ?
Oh just explain how you did it in the Back?
There is already a port back there. I just had to fish the hose through the grate on the inside.
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks . Thought that there was already a Hose INSIDE the Port for the CO2.
So i Just Stick my Hose in and can fish IT from the INSIDE hole.
@@BusterBeagle3D did IT. But IT was really hard to get IT through the hole.
Thanks for the Innovation.
super nice!
Thank you! Cheers!
Would i be possible to use the Buster Beagle with metal feedstock? What kind of modifications would be needed?
I'm not 100% sure what you mean. Are you talking about this laser or one of my machines?
Awesome 👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
I don't know about Maya, but Blender would let me set up a node graph for getting the heightmap and I could probably use a ramp to improve the detail without putting it into the model.
Blender is a very impressive piece of software so I don’t doubt it could do some cool stuff like that. I’m just not as familiar with it then I am in Maya but maybe something to research more in the future.
Thats awesome brother...
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I also do CAD and 3D printing in my “real job”. This id a cool way to bring that world into the laser-verse. Now to decide if I need the Ultra or if the regular F1 is enough🤔Any thoughts?
Nice. The original F1 is not a real fiber laser. Yes it has a 1064 nm laser but it's a much smaller diode source. It could never do something like these coins.
Hi, I was curious what kind of metal is the mold block and do you have a online source for it?
Hi. it's an aluminum block that I happened to have laying around. It doesn't need to be that big or even out of aluminum. It just needs to be some sort of flat metal that you can engrave about a mm or two into to be able to set the coin down. You can even search amazon for aluminum block and you will find some but again it could be a bracket you buy at a hardware store or a scrape piece from somewhere.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you, I appreciate the info and the coin is amazing, I knew we could make coins with the ultra, but never thought it could be this cool. I will have to learn 3d modeling now lol.
Is there any way you could show us how to use the burn tool to get the results you did? I have watched other tutorials and they don't seem to produce the results that you show here.
Hi. It just kind of becomes an art form when doing that. I personally like to duplicate the image and then burn tool on a copy so that I can always blend it into the original by erasing it away if I went too hard. I also sometimes will simply duplicate the layer and they set the layer to multiply in the blending options. Again erasing the sections that I don't want to multiply until I feel it looks good. Another good thing to do is to check the heightmap in the emboss preview in xTool Creative Space. It shows the image to you as a 3D model which is a great way to check and see if you have gone too far or if you want to exaggerate more on a certain area. Hope this helps.
@@BusterBeagle3D TY for pointing me in the right direction.
Any chance you would share the files for the coin holder?
You can grab that here. drive.google.com/file/d/1ksjLBPcDd2_cW5Bono5OlW5Zt8LNc3OE/view?usp=drivesdk
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you so much for the file and the coin design!
any chance ya would make one to sell? I know someone that would really love one as a gift.
Hi. The more I think about it since it's not original characters by me it's not something I would sell. It was created as fan art and freely distributed to anyone who wanted to make for themselves but not something I would market and sell.
How about I would email you .stl file of 1oz silver coin with Jefferson face. The human face is the ultimate test of laser ability to cut quality die.
I did one a while back with my dumb head on it. Not sure if I ever had it in a video but it was made pretty much the same way. drive.google.com/file/d/1JHg0L2Y9SxY2VLCosp-8531T0ZUARoqj/view?usp=sharing I also
ummm... Photo Peenee???
what?
www.photopea.com/
Are you really allowed to make copyrighted material though....?!
It's fan art that is not for sale.