super stoked, another great video. i cant lie i was never a fan of 300zx but after discovering you and your channel i have a new appreciation of them, keep up the great work man you motivate me to get back to my project car days
I definitely wasn't until I drove one. Then it was all downhill from there😅 Personally I'd say uphill but my wallet says otherwise. Nothing beats a good project car🔥
I daily a 88 Pathfinder 2-door with VG30I. I do my own work on it in the backyard. VG content is pretty rare please keep making videos. I still don't have working turn signals, hazards and the dash light that comes on with headlights.
To properly bleed that system, you need to start with the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder (passenger side rear then driver side rear, passenger side front and last drivers side front). I replaced my master cylinder last year. I benched bled it first and followed those steps. Brakes works flawlessly.
Funny enough I just did a full system bleed in my vert from bone dry, 0 problems. It had a parts store MC. I had too much faith in this Nissan MC, wanting it to be good so badly that I terrorized myself swapping calipers and wasting brake fluid😂🤦♂️ Came to realize and learn that the fronts push harder as they work harder to stop the car, so the master isn't pushing as hard to leak when I bled the rear. 2nd time I've experienced this. Definitely a lesson learned!
Turn signal could be the hazard button. There's a metal tab inside the pod that is some kind of earth and the plastic that holds the hazard switch in place breaks and it doesn't contact properly and the hazard switch over rules the turn signals. Mine does it all the while because my pod is split so when my turn signals decide not to work I have to press the face of the pod agains the pod to make it reconnect.
I actually keep the hazard button detached for this reason. That way to activate it have to wedge my finger and slide the switch as needed. I appreciate the tip though! I think its time to actually pull out the multimeter and doing some diag🤕
I'm going to go over it all again soon the next time I work on it. It did this same thing on the previous chassis when I first swapped it, then it fixed itself probably the last 3 months it was going. Ran flawless when it was in my slicktop with my brand new harness for 3k miles so I've chalked it to be a combo of bad coolant temp-iacv connectors. I've used all my "junk" parts and refurbished them when possible on this car to save a buck and its showing😆😂
this dude is a 300zx guru at this point not many people with a yard full of 300s
I almost feel like us z32 guys have them all in our back yards and that's why you don't see them as much😆
nice fucking work on getting car troubleshot, fixed and ready for first drive same day you had another car on a dif site to work on. respect!
Gotta stay busy💪
super stoked, another great video. i cant lie i was never a fan of 300zx but after discovering you and your channel i have a new appreciation of them, keep up the great work man you motivate me to get back to my project car days
I definitely wasn't until I drove one.
Then it was all downhill from there😅 Personally I'd say uphill but my wallet says otherwise.
Nothing beats a good project car🔥
I daily a 88 Pathfinder 2-door with VG30I. I do my own work on it in the backyard. VG content is pretty rare please keep making videos. I still don't have working turn signals, hazards and the dash light that comes on with headlights.
Sounds like we are in the same boat😆 time to break out the FSM and read some schematics.
Keep wrenchn💪🏼💪🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I can promise that🔥
yeah if abs ever fails, either find a reasonably priced used one. or delete it all together. ;)
I think its time for me to take the step and do a delete for experience reasons.
I pulled the fuse on my daily so why not ditch it😎
To properly bleed that system, you need to start with the wheel that is farthest away from the master cylinder (passenger side rear then driver side rear, passenger side front and last drivers side front). I replaced my master cylinder last year. I benched bled it first and followed those steps. Brakes works flawlessly.
Funny enough I just did a full system bleed in my vert from bone dry, 0 problems. It had a parts store MC.
I had too much faith in this Nissan MC, wanting it to be good so badly that I terrorized myself swapping calipers and wasting brake fluid😂🤦♂️
Came to realize and learn that the fronts push harder as they work harder to stop the car, so the master isn't pushing as hard to leak when I bled the rear.
2nd time I've experienced this. Definitely a lesson learned!
@NedacSnosrap great job though...
lovin the videos as always
🙏
Turn signal could be the hazard button.
There's a metal tab inside the pod that is some kind of earth and the plastic that holds the hazard switch in place breaks and it doesn't contact properly and the hazard switch over rules the turn signals.
Mine does it all the while because my pod is split so when my turn signals decide not to work I have to press the face of the pod agains the pod to make it reconnect.
I actually keep the hazard button detached for this reason. That way to activate it have to wedge my finger and slide the switch as needed.
I appreciate the tip though!
I think its time to actually pull out the multimeter and doing some diag🤕
did you verify that your cas is matching the ecu at idle when car is fully warmed up. they might be off a degree or two causig that rough start issue.
I'm going to go over it all again soon the next time I work on it.
It did this same thing on the previous chassis when I first swapped it, then it fixed itself probably the last 3 months it was going.
Ran flawless when it was in my slicktop with my brand new harness for 3k miles so I've chalked it to be a combo of bad coolant temp-iacv connectors.
I've used all my "junk" parts and refurbished them when possible on this car to save a buck and its showing😆😂