Water Supply Piping (PEX Home Run Manifold)
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- Опубликовано: 2 май 2024
- First time installing a PEX home run system! What are your thoughts on PEX plumbing?
00:00 Viega Manabloc PEX manifold
01:06 Running the first PEX tubing
02:05 Comparing types of PEX crimp rings
02:52 Cold water circuits
04:00 Pre-made PEX stub out 90s
05:08 Planning for shower valves
08:57 DIY PEX uncoiler
09:29 Ice maker water line
13:17 Hot water circuits
15:05 Insulating hot water tubing
18:35 Mounting the shower valves
23:45 Pressure testing PEX water lines
25:36 Installing nail protection plates
26:48 Plumbing inspection
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Dude I know it's not what you're looking for, but so cool that that plumbing inspector offered you a job. You can't get a better compliment.
I understand your point about the pex expansion but it really is the way to go
And it is at menards home depot etc.
Y is pex expansion the way to go?
Also, a little pipe dope on the cleanout threads goes a long way...Nice job!
Great work!
Great job!
PEX plumbing is awesome and so easy for the DIYer. I installed that exact same Manablock about four years ago and I love it. I've moved some fixtures around in my basement, and extending or just re-running the supply lines was a breeze.
Agreed!
I first discovered pex when repiping my motorhome. I will never do another plumbing run with rigid pipe 💗
Modesty is often a gift 😮
Very accurate work for DY keep going
I like your videos
Thank you very much!
I do it a little different... running 3/4" lines to areas if there's multiple outs at the end, then branching 1/2" off those to each out. For the wall hookups, I like the brass drop ear to threaded pipe. Threaded pipe comes out of the wall.. its solid and can use threaded stop valves instead of PEX crimp on. That way, if you ever have to replace the stop valve, you can unscrew it and thread a new one on. On one project, they wanted a shower with jets, handheld and a rain head.... and wanted to be able to use them all at the same time. A 3/4" copper would work, but with the crimp pex, the fittings in the line restrict flow... so 3/4" crimp PEX is less flow than 3/4" copper. On that, I ran a 1" PEX hot water line to twin 60 gallon tanks, used a Kohler high flow temp valve and three 1/2" volume valves for jets, handheld, rain head. Dimmable LED lighted niches, curbless walk in.... the works! Fun stuff.
Sounds like quite the project! I wanted to avoid any behind the wall connections which is why I went with the 90 bend stubouts, but I'm probably overthinking it and I do think the drop ears are also a good idea for the reasons you mention.
I'm curious to see if there's any notable decrease in flow, in theory the shower head is the greatest restrictive point and 1/2" PEX flows more than enough to meet demand. Viega did a video testing this theory versus the expansion PEX, they didn't include a full port pipe like CPVC or copper but that would've been interesting to see.
@@MasonDixonAcres Yeah, the 1" line was so all three things in the shower could flow at once.. My concern was the 3/4 pex wouldn't bring enough for the three 1/2 in lines in the shower at the same time, plus if someone else in the bathroom was using a sink (two sinks in that bath). It was all about GPM, with 120 gallons of hot water for a 1 bedroom apartment. That was a guest apartment for some rich people.
That makes sense, I would agree with the 1” to feed three 1/2”
I feel like running insulated trunk lines to a couple manifolds splitting the house in two may be easier with access at each manifold.
'This has to be some sort of dance move'. i laughed out loud. i have run my fair share of electrical wire having to do those same 'dance moves'.
lol you get it 😆
I don’t remember if you are on a well or city water. I’d recommend a water softener with activated charcoal filter if on city water to remove chloramine’s. PEX does not do well against chlorinated water. Look up Integrity Repipe here on RUclips and watch some of his videos.
well water 👍🏻
I'm considering a manifold system in my 1966 split level house but mainly so I can run hot water pipes directly to the fixtures. From what I've seen these home runs can get the hot water to something like a faucet much faster. Currently it takes almost 2 minutes for my copper system to cycle out all of the water between the tankless water heater and the fixture because the house uses the traditional 3/4 inch copper Supply that runs throughout the entire house and only branches into half inch copper for each fixture along the way. This means to run the kitchen faucet I need to cycle out several gallons of cold water between the faucet and the water heater.
I do, however, want to go with PEX A as opposed to PEX B. Primarily because the connectors constrict flow ever so slightly
did you ever do it? I have a split too and have been thinking about it
@@IndestructibleTurtle no, not yet.
Well done want to work with you
Nice! For your washer runs, you put the hot and cold right next to each other on the wall. Are you going to insulate your hot runs? Any concern about your hot run loosing heat to the cold run right next to it?
The only one worth insulating was the long kitchen run, all the rest are short runs where the benefit would be negligible. Heat loss between a hot and cold PEX pipe is negligible for pipes that aren’t directly touching
Are your walls wet thanks for the video
home depot carries pex a fittings, also you can crimp pex a so you can use the manablock and then use expansion fittings elsewhere....
You are right that they’ve become more available. But the extra cost for both fittings and tubing still hasn’t sold me, the claims of increased flow rate are not well substantiated in my opinion. Increased port cross section doesn’t increase flow in the same proportion- if my 10 year old fluids class memory is still any good, pipe diameter and length have more effect. I’d definitely be interested to know if Uponor has better literature or testing on it but I haven’t found it. Viega (obviously a competitor) did an actual test and proved the fittings have a negligible effect compared to modern fixture restrictions.
ruclips.net/video/GV8bqCHc5eA/видео.htmlsi=bsRAuvB8KjL3pdgs
@@MasonDixonAcres How are they not substianted? All you have to do is look at the fitting? Pex B fittings are smaller in diameter then the expansion pex a fittings. There is no reduction in diameter.
Is there going to be a video for the duct work coming from the universal unit you installed? Please🥺
Yep!
@@MasonDixonAcres fantastic!! When?🤣
it'll probably be 2 months before the work is done and video is ready
Does pex have any long term bacteria build up you think for say ten years??
I don’t think it’s any different than any other polymer pipe
How are you educating yourself on wiring code? I need to rewire my place and just wondering where a good place to start is. Thanks ✌🏻
Reading applicable sections of the IRC, NEC, and online resources made by licensed electricians.
the only problem is getting the meter removed temporarily bedrooms get 14 gauge. kitchens get 12 gauge Remember that codes have changed to any outlet that uses plug in recepticals pretty much now need to have arc fault gcfi breakers.. These are not cheap but they are now required by code.
@@stevepailet8258there wasn’t no back room handshakes happening there was there…………
I had a Uponor Aquacenter for 20 years. The valves became impossible to turn...and no replacement parts. That manifold is going to do the same thing. I bought plain copper manifolds and sweat on Uponor ball valves and expansion fittings. They will last forever.
I guess I'll check in 20 years and cross that bridge if or when I come to it 😄
@MasonDixonAcres I looked at it...there was no way to repair it if it breaks in a year.
I personally dont like these manifold. Copper manifolds that supply houses have are way better. But you pay alot more in material for sure, alot of copper, and ball valves. I wouldnt do that unless its your own material and labor/ if you are building a home for a friend/family or a very rich client.
This was my point about the manoblock not cheap and it will die by the time that it is needed.. I too would just run a copper manifold at the source so that each bathroom or kitchen can be turned off long enough to do repairs
Only recommendation I have is separate domestic water with radiant heat.
Thanks! This is an open direct radiant system designed to feed domestic as well, we will see how we like it
I was thinking if you did it again. Good luck
How much did you spend on pex
Will you be insulating your hot water and radiant PEX runs?
I insulated the one long run shown in this video
figure the manoblock is a waste of time and parts. Just run plumbing as one normally would do with a supply to each location.. Shut off valves could be done individually at the point of use or with a small set of valves running at the source where the lines run out from the main line. figure by the time you run the pex and the block you are out atleast $400 or more.. Pex is cheap but when you run reduntant lines it gets a bit pricer than just running home run to each location and then split off from there
Exactly, these people got no clue. Completely unnecessary in Residential.
I hear you on the manifold using crimp on but I thought you were using pex a piping. So I’m wondering if crimping is approved for pex a pip?
I was under the impression that pex a was expansion only.
Nope it works for both! Only used A for hot as it was leftover from radiant
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I’m a fan of your channel and a fan of PEX plumbing. But manifold systems are generally a waste of labor, materials, and space. A simple trunk and branch system is much more efficient. A plumbing system is not an electrical system. Isolating lines are completely unnecessary.
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I just saw a Short by NS builders on plumbing manifolds and people definitely have strong opinions on them in the comments 😅 It uses more tubing (which is really not expensive) but I like the fact there are no connections behind walls, ease of adding new circuits, and the simplicity of selectively shutting off water for future maintenance or upgrades.
I can say from direct experience that being able to shut off a single water “circuit” so all your other outlets are still running until you can do repairs is really useful, especially in modern supply chains when it can take months to receive replacement parts.
it’s also useful to have the ability to shutdown all your good “circuits” while testing your repairs is also useful.
Pex is plastic tubing behind sheetrock. If someone hits it with a nail, the source can selectively be shutoff.
You’re a crimp fitting pex A?
Yep. Works for any type