PEX Installation Methods
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- Опубликовано: 2 май 2024
- PEX can be installed in the branch and trunk, sub manifold, or manifold method. What does that mean? What are the pro and cons? Find out in this training clip on pex install methods.
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I wish my plumbing looked that good. Mine looks like a firecracker went off in a bowl of spaghetti. When I found the empty Crown bottle under the garage floor, it all became clear.
Lol. One hell of a comment
LoL I admire your imagination
🤣
Hilarious
LMAO. I feel you, my house was caving in everywhere due to the worst workage that I had to watch happen as a kid. I was mad at my parents because I could see Iwas more qualified to do what they were doing for a lot of reasons. They just left all trash under there cans of food n hats n rags n a wrench they got from our stash. They did not care about much. Load bearing whatever. Ac condensation drain grades or safety switch who cares. Leaving flux on stressed n even overbent copper. No respect actually disrespect in a few ways. I wish anything looked that clean or effective or supported. They lucky they old now. Drunk looks good now
Great video and thank you for explaining the differences between the fittings manifolds and PEX types. Really appreciate you making this.
Wow! Great video dude. Very clear, thorough and informative. You're showing us and not just telling us. All new home buyers should see this.
Best video on the PEX systems. And they do make Manifolds with shut off valves too. Used these in my own home with PEX A, and I drain my outside spigots every winter just because I remember frozen water lines as a kid. And extra upside is if you go on vacation or leave your home for an extended period of time, it is easy to shut the water off to everything in your home so you don't come home to a flood. To me the piece of mind is worth an extra 200-300 bucks in hardware.
I purge with 50 psi air my system bypassing the waterheater. Only drawback is air is not "pure" air. I use an ordinary air compressor. Yeah I know of the drawbacks but I flush the lines thoroughly.
Great video! Looking at redoing an old house and going all PEX A. These new distribution manifolds with individual shutoffs look really nice :)
Thank you for the lesson. Very educational! Just learning about PEX.
Never thought about using the white stub outs, great idea!
Excellent comparison of the different methods, thank you!
Trying to learn about the Pex Systems for a small home im building... this just helping me understand way more about the layout Thanks for sharing !
great video! love how clean that wall is!
Great explanations and very informative. You answered questions that I didn’t even know I had 😁👍
Excellent tutorial, thanks for sharing!
I use the pex type A and really love it.
Perfect video. That seriousness on your face at the end of your video, it brings out the the profesionalism in you. Thank you.
Wow, thank you!
Really informative. Thank you!
I learn more useful info on RUclips than I ever did in school. Truth.
I call RUclips a virtual school...😆
this is the exact intro to PEX that I needed
Great video , thanks for sharing it 👍🏻
Excellent video! Thanks a bunch.
great video ! thank you for explaining the differences in the systems.
Thanks you, this video show me the over all how the PEX system work.
great video. thanks for posting.
Great info, thanks!
Nicely done. Thank you.
Fantastic job on the explanation thank you sir for your time and effort.
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing.
Interesting! When I installed a radiant heating system during a basement finishing, I used PEX and each loop was a single run. The only connections were in the mechanical room. I also used PEX to replace a line that failed due to a freeze rupture. In that case, I used SharkBite fittings and left in place access panels. In other places where I've seen PEX used in new homes, it was always done with a manifold. I hadn't even considered that anybody used branch and trunk with PEX. I guess if I was ever going to use PEX for plumbing, I would use a manifold, with at most branches in the bathroom from under the vanity to the toilet, with no fittings where they can't be accessed.
Thank you for the lesson! I really need to change out my galvanize pipes and was thinking of going with CPVC, now I'm going to go with PEX-A if I can find it, the local Menards and lowes seem to only carry PEX-B.
I found a local plumbing supply place that would sell to retail customers. I pay a little more, but they have good stock, and know what they are doing a little more.
I almost didn't watch because I'm spoiled by the higher production values on youtube these days, but the video was really great. Thanks for sharing the information.
Very informative. Thank you.
Awesome Video! Great explanation on how to best replumb my house. Thank you
Thank you for your teaching. Very good video. God bless.
Pretty sure this guy has been around the block a few times.... Thank you sir... that was very informative...
pretty detail
explain
thanks!
Valuable information, thx.
You guys using Type B&C PEX need to understand how restrictive it is, especially 1/2". The inserts go inside the 1/2" ID piping.....unlike AquaPEX where the fitting are all full flow 1/2", for example. So in sizing your runs, you'll need to go to the next size pipe in order to account for the friction/restriction loss of the Type B&C PEX insert fittings. I've seen houses with less flow than the copper they had after they re-piped with Type B&C PEX, because they didn't take into account the restrictions from the insert fittings.
Yeah, a plumber is missing an important detail. Either because they are using cheap pex, at least offer the client a choice between pex type.
I've been using Pex B for years and never had issues with flow. As long as your trunk line is big enough to compensate the volume of water necessary, you'll be fine. For most residential houses, a 3/4" trunk line will suffice and reduce to 1/2" for fixtures. Bigger houses with more fixtures? Bump it up to a 1" trunk. You also need to be mindful of not overusing fittings. Bend the pex to make turns instead of using an elbow whenever possible. Less is better in this instance.
Yep, the gentleman in this video mentions that at least 2-3 times.
But if everything is home-run plumbed to a manifold, each run only has two fittings (the manifold, and at the fixture), so it really doesn't matter.
Thanks great breakdown
Great video!
For my house I've put all the bathrooms in the middle very close to each other. So my tankless is very close, I use a very short 3/4" hot supply to the hot manifold (multiport branch) and each 1/2" goes to the hot points. I just used a basic trunk branch for the cold line cuz its cheap and simple and cold is cold.
Much appreciated! I learned a lot from your video.
Awesome clear and informative
Thanks! Helpful for my plumbing re-do project.
Excellent demo....Thanks
Great video! Thank you!
I have a manifold block. It's fantastic. Need to change a shower balancing valve, just shut the water off on that line. Stuck gate valve that won't shut off, shut it down at the manifold. Plus, I've got a water shut-off valve right before the manifold so i can shut everything down just as easy.
I believe the one downside is the time to get hot water to start flowing. Because the water is traveling to the manifold and then to the fixture it seems to take a lot longer than the traditional trunk system.
Well done! You explained that so clearly. Thanks!
This is awesome thanks.
One question I am using a copper manifold instead of plastic. Any drawbacks to be aware ?
awesome info! Thanks!!
I think this video was very well done. Nice
This is great - I wanted to isolate my master bath because the lines run above a garage and froze. Having to re-pipe and switch to pex from copper. Are there any issues branching of my cold and water lines to go to a different section of the house and then branching off for each of those fixtures in the master bath? So there be essentially two “zones”
Excellent video!
Awesome explanation
Thanks
Installed a manablock system after the freeze. Easy......$1000 all pex lines and new water heater
Nice. Informative.
Great video! We have a single bathroom house and are doing some work. Should the cold feed and hot discharge be 3/4? Right now our cold trunk is 3/4 but everything else is 1/2.
Thanks in advance
My pex runs through my attic...no basements in Texas.It's a little harder to do a distribution block so I use the manifold system with Pex B. I also use shut off coupling valves at each of the manifold fittings that allows me to shut down each line and it doesn't reduce flow any more than it would without it. So basically, same system as the distribution block but without a central node. I have two manifolds. One for cold and one for hot and each 1/2" line has a shut off valve. I did this primarily because my builder installed Nibco Pex which was defective back in 2008 and they never stood by their product so I've had to do all my own plumbing and wanted to make sure I had a good system for dealing with leaks. I would LOVE to have a basement and run a distribution block for my house. That would be awesome. But none of our houses here have basements so...booo.
Great Video !
Hello, excellent video, learning to do by my self. We’re I have to manifest all that pex pipe? .on the floor or on the wall?.thank you
Great job...
Wow. Yeah, Pex-B fittings are smaller and restrict your flow. That's why you should step up the size of the system. Note that Pex-A fittings do not restrict the water flow, so you don't need to step it up.
I was scratching my head why you didn't mention installing a hot water loop to keep the water hot through the entire circuit.
Other than that, really good video! Gorgeous back-plane showing the systems!
Well done...
Excellent!
Have to say, for a plumber double white is okay but for homeowners they never can figure out which side is hot and they screw up when they install new faucets and tub cartridges and what not. Color coding just helps people know what they are hooking up. Agree white looks better though
I can rarely see the pex lines even when I reach for something under the sink. I like the idea that if work is done there’s no doubt which line is hot and which is cold.
Really only the toilet line or the lines under a pedestal sink are seen. That makes it easy. Who cares if there's red or blue inside a cabinet?
great vid - thanks much
this is a great and very helpful video. the dude seems really cool, too.
I think the best compromise is a modified manifold system that combines a small manifold with smaller trunk and branch sections. Less fittings, less piping, still easy to isolate and fix if there are any issues.
yeah..like a ¾" trunk & branch for the East section fixtures and one for the west and so on..all arising from a small manifold of 1"
awesome video
Well presented
solid thanks
woooow good explanation ... thank you for shearing
This guy knows what he's talking about. So, watch and listen carefully. I have been doubtful about DIYing this kind of plumbing. I have watched a few similar PEX installation videos on RUclips University but this particular video sums it all up for me. I feel more confident this morning and I took lots of notes and I'm charging ahead with my big project. I have already ordered the Manabloc manifold and the PEX-B tubings. I hope to share the good news about my project when done. Thanks a lot for sharing this knowledge via a lecture-style training video, sir.
Let us know how it goes! Thanks!
Have you completed your project yet and any feedback on the manifold you purchased?
How is your water pressures with the distribution block vs the traditional crimp way that you say have choke points. Wouldnt you still have loss of water pressure with the distribution block cause you have to reduce down in pipe size as well.
the distribution box at 10:27 looks great, but what about when it's time to replace it ? seems like it would be very expensive.
Another thing to denote with the manifold systems is they are largely incompatible with recirculating pumps, whereas even old trunk and branch systems can be easily converted to work with recirculating systems.
If someone were to plumb 3/4 to 3/4 on the trunk and branch would they likely have pressure issues? I'm plumbing a small cabin and everything is within 20ft of the pressure tank and I figured it would be fine...
neat video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge! I am wanting to know, If I added the same size Pex A as I have in copper, would the pressure be lessened due to the thicker walls in the Pex A than the M Copper?
It is not enough to matter.
It would be awesome to automate the block. I could see water sensors in different parts of a house communicating with the block. If there’s a flood, it would automatically shut off water to that specific area. I could also see this working with pressure drops if rodents chew through the pex.
There are devices that do that. just not as a whole block.
On the middle option is that 3/4 on main and 1/2 on feeds off of there? Could you use those copper manifolds on middle option and just put in individual shut offs for the lines out from there similar to the last option?
I replaced 3/4 ancient galvanized withv1/2 pex and have had 0 problems. At a lot of spots I have more psi than before. Gotta take stock st what you're ripping out. Old pipe rots from the inside and you can sometimes not fit even a pencil through it.
Me quedo super claro
Omg, this dude is a legend! The only thing I'm wondering is where I'd have to place the PEX. We had a freeze in Texas a few months ago and almost all of my mom's pipes burst. Her manufactured home is 35 years old and it seems easier to just replace them all. I wanted to use PEX but I'm not too crazy about crawling around under the house all day. Is it cool to run the "Trunk" line around the base of the house instead of down the middle? Like still underneath the house just closer to the edge of the foundation. I'm thinking it would use more pipe but be good for future repairs but I'm not sure if this affects the water pressure or something.. If anyone could help me out that would be awesome.
Also consider using PEX A, not B. PEX A can expand (which is how the fittings are attached) this means if you have another freeze, the PEX A pipe will expand when frozen, but return to normal once the ice inside thaws.
@@nova31337 Guess what: both will expand and are resistant to burst from freezing. The difference is that PEX-A can expand more and still contract to original size. PEX-B has a lower burst rating. Both A and B (specifically Zurn-B) can be installed with expansion fittings and/or compression rings.
I'm a plumber in Texas and the freeze you spoke of revealed several things to me about pex, with the most important being Pex A expanding to the point of rupturing, whereas i never saw it with Pex B, Pex C, or Polybutalene....
@@bigglilwayne7050 So don't use PEX A?
thank you
Trunk + Branch is ideal for hot water recirculation. That part wasn’t mentioned.
Nice job. Thank you.
Is there a way to use a distribution block with a hot water recirculation loop?
Thanks thanks good video God bless you
Can I use 3/4” pex in and out of the distribution block?
Thank you, I learned so much. I was wondering can the distribution blocks be laid out horizontally? or does it need to be vertical like in the video?
thanks!
The R&B color coming out of the wall for angle stops is better for a repairman so there is no question about what a pipe is. Blue? Cold Red? Hot. And who cares what it looks like in the back of the cabinet?
very good .
Thanks!
After being stranded twice with a water leak on a holiday weekend that distribution block sounds like a great idea.
Viewing this two years after the video was published... thanks for posting!
I have a question... what are your opinions of a combination of the two... running a manifold at the water source, with a trunk to each local, branching off to the fixtures at the local?
For example: A trunk line from the manifold @ the water source to the Master Bath with branches to the tub, shower, and toilet? The same for the kitchen, each spare bath etc...
This is the form that the electrical circuitry works... run an electrical home run out to say... a bedroom and then branch wiring to the individual receps in the bedroom area.
Seems that this would reduce the amount of pipes at the manifold as well as the SIZE of the manifold, but would increase the number of fittings needed for the Master Bath piping.
I would think the trade off would be shutting down the Master Bath as a whole to repair any leak at the bath.
You can do that
Will the Water flow will be the same ?
I haven't done a serious job with pex yet, but I have had to FIX problems with pex several times. The biggest problem I've seen is the elbows that are made out of metal. If I ever DID to a full job with pex, I'd either use plastic body sharkbite fittings, or I'd use plastic for everything up to the metal fixtures, simply because you eliminate the risk of a failure due to corrosion, which is what I've had to deal with in pex systems on multiple occasions.
Interesting. My home is 23 years old. I’ve re-plumbed several lines and fixtures over the years and have never seen corrosion on the brass fittings. In fact I reused them because they looked new. Maybe it’s because I don’t have hard water. My son asked whether he should use brass or plastic fittings, I recommended brass because it seems that metal can take the stress better. Maybe I am wrong. I don’t know.
Yeah, I would use the brass over the plastic. There should be no corrosion.
I’m surprised you did not mention the Tennessee reverse crisscross method… I think it’s one of the best methods to use for pet…
Which system and which type of PEX is least likely to burst due to a hard freeze? Is the manifold the weakest point for freezing?
New Subscriber here !!! Great video can you provide links to the manifold systems shown?? I've searched and most only show the crimp systems and way more ports than would needed in the house were re doing.
Our rep gave me that one. It's a manabloc . You should be able to get however many you want, it's modular.
With the manifold system. Do you still need to step it down to 1/2 inch from 3/4 at the manifold to achieve additional water pressure at your connection points. Or can you use 3/4 though out the house from the manifold and just step it down at the connection of each connection?
it comes out the manifold as 1/2 inch.
Thanks