How To Stub Out PEX Plumbing for PEX-A & PEX-B
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2024
- A simple way to stub out your PEX pipes without wasting your money on the "Fancy" Bracket Kits...In my Opinions at least. I've installed several styles of the pre built stub out brackets and it never seems to be a fun process. So I took the matter into my own hands and tried something different and I feel it turned out way more sturdy and saved me time and money.
I'll walk you through the steps I took to make these stub outs Step-By-Step
I'll link below some of the parts I used and I'll also place them in the video incase you want to try this out yourself.
Butterfly Style Clamp:
amzn.to/3PfbmzB
1" Cabinet Screws:
amzn.to/48Hkowk
PEX Cutter:
amzn.to/3V7U0s9
1/2" PEX Fittings:
amzn.to/3v2tSnX
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Some of these links are my Affiliate links and will take you directly to the items I'm using in the videos or installing. They are at no additional cost to you, but if you decide to purchase through them I'll receive a small commission. In some cases you will actually receive a discount for going through the links I provide. Just wanted to let you all know and that I appreciate your views, your LIKEs and all the support.
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As a carpenter I am impressed with your craftsmanship brother.
I really appreciate that. Thank you
I like your simple way for all the reasons you stated. Makes so much more sense.
I use Pex b with the brass fittings and stainless steel crimp rings, have for over 20 years. I really admire your workmanship and explanation on using these black clamp pieces. I ordered 10 from the local Home Depot as your video played. I have a full bathroom and a laundry to plumbing in the next week so the timing is perfect. ~WilPaul
That’s awesome to hear. Happy you could find the video helpful. I’ve seen a lot of the pex B being available at most stores, but in our area, they use a lot of PEX A. The expansion over the crimp seems to be preferred by a lot of plumbers because the crimp connections have smaller internal diameters at the joints and fittings, and if you have a long run of water with several connections, it can end up reducing your water, flow and water pressure. So I’ve seen some plumbers have to come in and replace the crimp joints to get better water pressure upstairs at shower for example.
Not to say anything is wrong with the other, I’ve just heard some plumbers talk about why they prefer one over the other. I never really thought about it until I started looking at the fittings and realized what they were talking about. It makes sense I guess if you have a lot of water that you need to worry about the water flow way down the line.
The pex b connections reduce the i.d. the pex a connections retain the same inside diameter, so they have less restrictions in the flow.
@@MrItalianfighter1 💯
Nice instructional video. I did my entire house with PexA...Wirsbo back then. Potable wayer and 100percent radiant through 2000sf house and concrete encased basement. LOADS of 90s and some tees...not a single leaker. All the hype of using sweeps instead of fittings for durability and flow doesnt mean a thing if you have good water pressure and flow. Keep the videos coming..I learn a lot from professionals.
I really appreciate that. And I agree, I think PEX A is the way to go. Love how simply and fast it is, but really like you said … it’s very strong and reliable.
THank you! Thank You! This is going to help me tons! why didnt i think of this...
Fantastic!
Thank you!
Well, as a 25 year veteran plumber I just stub out with copper. It looks great and very sturdy. Or, use a pex drop ear 90 then a brass nipple. If the stop valve goes bad on the pex stub out then there is usually no room to get another stop on to make the repair. Just saying. At least he has put hot high and cold low.
I agree, the copper finish looks good. I was considering transitioning to copper with their 90 stub out copper with a sweated PEX fitting on the end. A little more expensive but would be very sturdy since they also have a flange on the top nail too.
I like that! Looks clean and looks like it works good. I have been trying to find something that works well.
Thank You!!
Thank you. I agree, looks good and works well. Made this faster than trying to mess with the pre-made brackets.
Love it. Gonna use this method on my basement bathroom project. Thanks!
That’s awesome to hear!
Copper pex stub out looks much better and just requires a few screws into a brace. Its also only $7. You have a more durable stubout(metal) and less fittings to fail.
In my opinion the whole point of PeX is to hopefully avoid copper fitting all together. These PeX A fittings have shown to have some of the highest rated pressure tests done before seeing any failure. And there’s no torches,solder,flux,etc. Quick, easy and no flames or copper compression fittings.
Where I did transition to copper was the stub outs for the exterior hose bibs. When exposed to the weather and sunlight I’d recommend not having a PEX stub out. lol. Might not last long out here in the Vegas sun.
yeah PEX seems to be the way to go when you can. much much easier and i haven't had one leak on me yet
I like this way. I'm going to do it
Awesome! I prefer it now too. Looks clean too I think
This is outstanding. Thank you for sharing this technique.
Ive been struggling with those stupid brackets and plastic clamps and wasted so much time trying to tighten that thread. Definitely, going this route in the future.
That’s awesome. I appreciate that. I’m in the same boat. I won’t be wasting my money on those brackets anymore
100% agree
Nice job I wish I saw this 5 years ago .
Thank you. Yeah I thought I was being fancy when I ordered the stub out brackets…. But quickly learned I had wasted my money. So I needed to try something else.
Kool ❤
🤙🏼 thank you
Thanks for the tip. I am replumbing my house due to defective PEX from 2005 era. I’ve had around 8 pipe leaks in 19 years.
Dang sorry to hear about that. Is it the old pex that has like a metal sleeve inside it? I’ve seen a different PEX type material before from a home around that time and it was very difficult to work with because nothing in stores seemed to be the right fix. After some research Someone told me there was an old manufacturer of a plastic piping that was being used in home for a while but there was something that happened with leaks and they stopped putting it in home and a lot had to be completely replumbed
@@FortKnoxCo it is the non metallic pex but it is a darker red and blue wasn’t available then, cold was white. It springs multiple pinhole leaks when it fails. They are finer than a spiders web. Real garbage.
@@wjrobertson67 oh wow. Yeah that’s a tough situation. Having to replumb a whole house could be a bit task.
You sir are awesome and you SOB I knew you were going to suggest the nice and fancy router to flush out those clips. No way for me, and you too.... I would do it exactly as you did. Looks great, works great, and is better than those kits!
Haha. Yeah I feel ya on that. I appreciate it man. Happy you found the video helpful 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thank you Bryan/Brian, this is a clever & secure method. My plumber has always suggested to use as less joints as possible & I'd recommend you try the bend supports (pvc conduit or metal braces) instead of the 90 deg elbows in your video. Thanks again 🇺🇸
-OH, Spokane
Yes , the less connections or hard bends the best. From the water supply to this joint I have only 4 connections in total. I’ve bent the pipes through the ceiling, down the wall and into the pony wall. Unfortunately to make the turn inside this pony wall I’d be stretching the ability of these pipes in the limited space and angle I had to work with. So I cut my losses, literally, and just went with a hard 90 to make the final turn out. But yes I’d recommend always try to create a bend rather than cut and splice. Luckily the PEX A doesn’t reduce size at connections like PEX B does. With PEX B you really need to be careful how many joints you create.
Good job of explaining a better, cheaper way. I also wish they would bring a code requirement for homes in dry, hot climates to do away with the brackets that put a curve in the pex to make a 90 degree turn. It seems like a good idea and avoids another fitting but over time this plastic dries out and a crack develops in the outside corner. I live in phoenix and have had to replace these curves with fittings.
That’s a good point, never thought about the dry heat weakening the stressed bends. I know less connections is usually better. But then you have stressed bends where people are trying to make it work at its limits.
I suppose you could heat the pex up to take the bend without so much stress, but that in itself could compromise the integrity of the plastic.
@@homecraftsolutions3506 yeah exactly my thought. I wouldn’t want to use heat on these to make it move. Probably advised against somewhere in the manual
I was wondering if those plastic anchors that you were putting into the 2 x 4 to hold the pecks pipe, if they were a two piece with a tapered cone that when you screwed them into the 2 x 4 do they clamp down onto the pecks pipe, or are you relying on the 5/8 hole for resistance
The plastic clips have two small tabs molded into the cylinder part that apply slight pressure as you push the pipe through. The resistance you get is from the plastic piece. Not the wood. The 5/8 hole technically doesn’t grip it at all. It just prevents it from wiggling much if pulled laterally. But you could drill the larger hole all the way through and get basically the same fit.
Dude, where do you live? I need to hug you for this 😂
Well you’re very welcome sir. I felt like there had to be a better way, and once I figured this out I thought I should share it with the world. 🤙🏼
Me personally I plan to install a manifold and go straight from manifold to fixture .
No fittings in the wall .
If you can make all the bends and sharp turn outs to your fixtures then that would be a nice set up. Less cuts and connectors the better. But usually to turn even the flexible PeX pipe in a 2x4 or even 2x6 wall is super tight. But there’s lots of options out there
Do you have a link for the plastic clamps? The link you've given isn't for a different type of support.
I have the clamps in the product links on the video. Should take you directly to it. If you see during the video or when you look at the video product links it’ll show several. They are the 1/2” grip right’s
How do you terminate the pex on the finished side of the wall? Don't want pex showing in finished product.
They sell different finish caps and fittings that go along with the shut off valves. Similar to the circle finish plates you usually put around plumbing when it stubs out of the wall, but it has a piece that covers and conceals the pex. Gives it a full finished look. This being under the counter I’m not too worried about itchy, but next to a toilet and stuff like that I may use the better finishes
The best I’ve seen on PEX is NO connections inside the wall. Make home runs from a manifold, use the snap on 90 to support and hold the bend. I never understand why plumbers still run Pex like they are installing copper. The sloping 90s reduce turbulence and noise. Home runs mean no connections between the manifold and the fixture. You can isolate a line by turning the valve at the manifold vs Turing off the entire house. PEX installed right is beautiful and extremely reliable. All those connections are what creates the problems.
I agree. Less connections the better. I haven’t messed with manifolds recently, but the ones I’ve seen and had to repair or work on were nightmares. The manifolds in the past weren’t the best and have been headaches, known to leak and when they fail you have to usually replace the whole manifold. And they aren’t cheap and for a while have been hard to get.
I don’t know if any of that has changed as of recent years, but isn’t very common now a days here with building new homes. It’d be nice if they came back with new up to date manifolds and products. I gotta do some research 🧐
@@FortKnoxCo Supply House has some I was considering. They are copper , not plastic and you can use real brass 1/4 turn valves in them. I’m planning to add some new lines for outside water spigots. The professional plumber’ that did my house put the existing outdoor spigots as branches off a main domestic water distribution using PEXB. I want to install whole house water filter. His piss poor planning would have all my garden hose water filtered. AND he didn’t put shutoff valves for the MB tub supply. To work on it the new plumber had to turn off and drain the entire house. I installed a ceiling access panel under the tube and shutoffs on the lines. Little things that would make servicing a lot easier. FYI I only hire this stuff out because my body is too old to do that work anymore.
@@coldwarveteran4239 aw man what a headache. But sounds like you got it figured out. Even if your not doing it yourself you have the knowledge to make sure your asking the right questions and seeing what’s being done but the “professionals” so you can catch stuff before it’s a bigger problem or that’s it’s just done way you’d like it.
We have a whole home filtration system and love it.
I hate those stub out kits. This is much better.
I appreciate that. I had so much trouble with them. And even when you get it all put together it’s not really that sturdy. The thin metal is flexible and not very rigid even when screwed in. This method I think saves money and your sanity
they are a pain in the butt. flimsy too
0:41 - *You can get these 90’s, so this is a bendafit*
Get it? 😂
Nice! 🤙🏼🤙🏼
There a cheap way to plum a bath room, use a bucket in a rope.. I was snapping cast iron , pouring hot lead joints in the 70s, . A good way to , plum , kitchen and bathrooms, just buy the copper, put the air hammers up the wall. Then go cheap if you have to and use , pexs as your feed lines, and guys, insulate the lines stop screwing customers. And copper up and out of hot water heaters. Real valves. Give the customers a couple of extra shut off.. valves . top floor, ECT.
And what's up... With fake plumbers, doing waist lines, who don't even know the slope has to be what it is...wow,...
I agree. There’s good, better & best ways to get the job done. And somewhere in there is the proper way. I like using copper on stub outs where I can, especially when it’s going to be seen a lot. And I also agree with adding some shit off valves to help the home owner help themselves when having to fix or add things themselves. Go the extra mile.
Your 5/8 hole on the back of the blocking could abrade your pet over time and cause a leak.
It’s not squeezing it has a light space. The grip is coming from the Grip-right clip in the front.
@@FortKnoxCo with use the pipe will move, over the course of years a hole will abrade from the movement against the wood.
@@leestebbins5051 I see what you’re saying. In almost all PEX installations they drill through studs and top plates to run the lines and they all rest against wood at some point. I wonder how much that’s become an issue for installers and in what time frame.
@@FortKnoxCo The front edge of the installation has a smooth bushing, that would be a best practice.
Which is harder and would be more abrasive, pine or plastic?
You created more connections in your pex … (That could potentially leak)….Bending the pipe is better
There’s pros and cons to everything. One extra connection isn’t too bad. In a lot of cases I’ve seen plumbers just use a 90 turn on every stub out or change of direction. I agree you should try to limit the number of cuts/connections and hard turn when possible. This video I’m just showing a different way to stub out. Several ways to accomplish the job however you prefer.
Why not just use a bit sized for the OD of the pipe? No addition expense for plastic parts, no drilling two separate holes, saves four screws and several minutes of labor.
Because the fittings are exact and they also have little tabs that apply slight pressure to the pipe to grab onto it. When you’re drilling a hole through the wood, you’re always gonna have some type of play down and try to squeeze it through so that you have some type of grip.
Either way there could be a couple different ways to accomplish this. I was just trying to think outside the box rather than the store-bought brackets that seem to be a huge headache.
When pipes heat up they move and squeak on wood
@@chadoien4033 good point. Having the plastic clamp peace helps insulate the pipe from the wood and would prevent that problem too
I am building a house and simply stuck the PEX through a 5/8” hole in the 2x4 much like brian did, just without the black clips. Seems to be a simple and effective solution. Brian is a craftsman and has done excellent work.
@@brianb9410 I appreciate that. There’s lots of ways to get this done, this is merely a suggestion. I’m sure there will be a situation I come across in another build where I’ll have to be creative with it and come up with a different solution that works.
This is a innovative but a bad idea for 2 reasons.
1. The pex is still loose inside those collars.
2. There is no way to test for leaks because the ends are not plugged.
Easy cheap solution is to use the copper 90 degree stub out kits. The kits keep your pex secure, and are plugged to test line for leaks. After testing, just cut the ends off and use compression valve
I see what your saying, if your worried about the lines pushing back, you can nail the PEX hold down to the wood bracing, on the back of the set up. Easy fix. And obviously they are stable laterally.
And with being plugged….you just put a plug in the line at the end. They make packs of PE plugs and that’s usually what everyone does when installing PEX in our area. Lines are ran all the way out and stubbed and plugged.
The copper turn outs are nice, I used those on the stub outs for the exterior for the hose hook ups. Don’t want the sun & weather beating down on PEX fittings outside. So I’d always transition to copper for exterior
@@FortKnoxCo . I used your method of stub out.
you could also use sharkbite valves as plugs for testing. Remove when installing drywall and reinstall valves after. Thats what I did anyway.
@@unnitocases4174 that’s actually a really good idea. I can’t believe I didn’t think about using shark bites to cap the lines temporarily. I installed a plug and then you have to cut it out afterwards and it’s kind of a waste. Maybe in the future all use Sharkbite plugs and that something that I can always go back to. Great idea.
The problem is you have an elbow. Today a homeowner wants a straight run with no elbow’s or tees. They want the manna block system. Much easier. I didn’t put a single elbow or tee in my house. I have way better flow. Avoid these discount moves. This is the problem. Plus it’s a double wall. Why not use a wall bend instead of cheating out with that 90 degree elbow?
I hear what you’re saying. Less connections the better. Less chances for failure points. But I’ve also heard the opposite about the manna blocks. I’ve been told by some plumbers to stay away from them, and if you have one in a home try not to mess with it because if it breaks or has a problem they are hard to get & expensive to fix. I’ve experienced one situation myself with a manna block where it was leaking out of a connection at the block and all the valves were seizing up. Maybe it’s because of the hot dry weather out here in Vegas. Might depend on what’s common in your area, cuz in Vegas with the weather and super hard water these plastic valves don’t last long.
Impacts are not for drilling holes. They are for screws..
as for the stub out I just use a regular crimp on 90 and staple the pex to the stud.. secure enough to get drywall measurements.. what am I missing?
I don’t know about you, but I’ve seen impact drivers use for many different things. They work wonders when drilling these holes with this type of bit. I’ve seen standard drills bog down and not have enough torque to get through the wood sometimes when drilling large holes. I wouldn’t use a impact driver on a whole cutting saw But for these bits, they work great. But again there’s all kinds of uses I guess.
As far as the plumbing portion, I would always prefer a joint or PEX A over a crimp joint. The crimp connections usually have smaller diameters on the transitions and that reduces your water flow over the length of the waterline. They’re also a mechanical squeeze that can sometimes loosen or leak more likely than a expansion connection. The ring on the expansion (PEX A) has a memory and is basically forever trying to squeeze back down to its original size. And the connection pieces are the true diameter of the pipe opening. So the pipe goes over the connection joint and never actually reduces it in diameter. But again, there’s many ways to do these things, to get to the overall goal.
@@FortKnoxCo drilling holes is harder on the impact will where out the impact much faster than screws, unless ofcourse your using the impact for lags, but then I larger 1/2” drive impact should be used for lags anyways..
I understand the crimps are not as good as expansion. If that was the basis of your video I would have simply agreed. However your video was about the stub out, which btw your way of doing it is much better than the metal bracket imo, however I still see it as being way more complicated than necessary. I simply secure the vertical pex to the stud with those plastic hanger things that have a nail in them. or secure the pex to a horizontal 1x4 if the studs are not close enough to the correct location. Yes it doesn’t look as good but it holds to get th3 drywall holes in correct location and then it’s covered by drywall
@@RJ-cc1fz yeah I get what you’re saying. I use the impact for a lot of different stuff and it seems lately. But I only have one impact and I have a couple drills always on standby. If you have the ability to, it’s nice to be able to go from one to the other whenever you need it. I think one reason I chose the impact on this was because I know it would drive through the wood well and the spade bits leave a flat bottom with a centered cone where the threads are, so when I drill out the enter it helped align the next bit.
I use those nail down pex clamps all the time. Super useful. I have done that as well and they hold very strong.
I never stub out with pex... I only stub out with steel nipples and drop ears
There’s nothing wrong with stubbing out with pex , but transitioning to copper is nice. I’m not sure about steel piping for water out here though. I don’t believe our building codes would allow steel water lines.
I was wondering if those plastic anchors that you were putting into the 2 x 4 to hold the pecks pipe, if they were a two piece with a tapered cone that when you screwed them into the 2 x 4 do they clamp down onto the pecks pipe, or are you relying on the 5/8 hole for resistance