Great video, I also ordered an inflation fan kit from your site and you had better selection than most major suppliers, great job! They all seemed to have incomplete and "internal air" kits, almost like they have no idea what they're doing.
Thanks so much for supporting our small company, and for commenting. Happy you liked our site selection. We always just want to try and make it easy (easier at least). Thanks again!
Your videos are so well-done and helpful! I bought a hoop house kit from another company. The product is great but the instructions are so poor, I turn Tunnel Vision to learn some great tips on installation. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words and for watching! Happy the videos have been helpful. If you need any additional building materials check out the Tunnel Vision Hoops website, we might have what you’re looking for. Thanks!
Well damn, after doing my first hoop house this past week, I watched this and realized I was supposed to do the end walls first. Oops! I’m the type of learner that needs to get my hands dirty first before I really understand something, so next time I pull plastic over the structure, I will get it right!
You should still be okay even though you did your top first, it might just be a little more effort than it otherwise would be. Thanks for the comment, and for supporting us! Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! We plan on continuing this process of making and posting videos so hopefully there are some more that we post that you find helpful.
Am gobsmacked --happy--at this series of GH activity.What is the 4 foot square fabric cloth in each corner for? Just to secure the corners against winds? Thank you.
The corner plastic are called "corner-wind-panels" and we do have a video on the installation of those as well. These pieces of plastic intend to block wind from easily entering the structure when the roll-up sides are in the down position - they help you keep wind out WITHOUT having to secure spring wire over the roll-up plastic and into the channel along the end-bow. You can check out our video for more details. Thanks for watching!
Great videos, very helpful. I was curious your opinion on stapling down end walls on the base. I didnt have enough of channeling nor wiggle wire to do that. Was thinking maybe small channel with 2 ft of wiggle wire on the center of the base to hold temporarily and then install staples to the wooden base. Any input is helpful! Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words on the video! To answer your question, I wouldn't personally feel comfortable stapling the plastic to the wooden base. A staple is a very small point of pressure, and in heavy winds I would envision the plastic ripping right through the staple. If it were me, I would order in more spring wire channel and wire to completely enclose the bottom of your end-wall. If this is not an option for budget or timing reasons, I would get a few furring strips (lumber) and secure the plastic using a furring strip method. For this method you would take a furring strip of lumber and press it against the plastic right at the point of the interior lumber (basically, sandwiching the plastic between your interior lumber framing and your exterior furring strip), and you would screw through the furring strip, through the plastic, and into the lumber framing. This would provide a bit more strength against winds than the staples, and it is still relatively inexpensive. Depending on the thickness of your furring strips you may need to pre-drill the furring strips to prevent the furring strip from splitting when driving the screws. Good luck!
These are the ones I used: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/ Just make sure you select the snap clamps that correspond with the tube diameter you have.
Great video very informative! I have a question though, why do you have poly on the 4 corners by the end walls? What are they for? and how do you keep them in place?
Thanks for watching. Those corner plastic panels are called Corner Wind Panels, and they prevent wind from shooting behind the end of your roll-up side plastic into the structure. They are super beneficial in the edge seasons when you might be using the roll-up sides a ton, but it still gets cold at night. We actually have a video on how to install those pieces here: ruclips.net/video/AfsxdyaoWjk/видео.html Thanks again for watching!
All the videos I watch show putting up the post first for the walls, then coming back and put the bottom board. Would it not be easier to put the boards first, make a rectangle and then mark the top of the boards where the post would be align and then put the post in. This way if you put the boards straight, and you put the post, the boards will help guide the post straight into the ground. Just like when you form up for a slab.
That might possibly work, although I have never done it that way so I can't say for certain there wouldn't be a set of problems with it. If you want to try it out though just make sure you report back how it went!
The cost of the material can range depending on how simple or complex the structure you want to build is. It will also vary based on the size of your structure. The basic cost for greenhouse plastic per square ft. is fairly inexpensive though, especially since it lasts 4 to 7 years if installed tightly. If interested, you can browse a variety of building components on our site here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/building-components/
So you're using the same single channel on the end walls as the side wall? Two zip wires in one channel layered for two pieces of plastic? Is that a special channel that is deeper to accomidate two wires?
Thanks for watching. You are correct - it is the same channel. We install just one run of channel that goes from the ground on one side to the ground on the other side over the end-bow. We overlap the end-wall plastic and top cover plastic and install them into the same channel. The channel can hold two runs of wire, and up to 4-ish layers of plastic. Obviously you can install more wire if you have less plastic being held and vice versa. Thanks again for the question and for watching!
The ladders are A-frame telescoping ladders. Brands differ, but most all big box hardware stores stock a version of them. There are usually two options for the ladders - one slightly smaller in reach than the other. We have two of each. The larger of the two allowed us to very comfortably work with hardware 14 to 15 feet off the ground. Thanks for watching!
I don''t mitre cut where they meet. I used to do this but actually found the sharp edge where the 45 degree angles meet was more dangerous to the plastic (and plastic installation) that I started allowing one piece to dead-end directly into the the other piece. For example, if I put a vertical piece next to a door, I would allow that piece to extend about an inch or two above the doors' header THEN I would install the channel above the door on the header itself - I would allow that unit of channel to dead-end into the vertical channel I installed in the previous stem. If you were to zoom in on where the two channels converge it would look sorta' like a sideways "T". Hope this helps.
How do you keep the endwall plastic tight while installing the top cover? Don't you have to remove the wire top put the top cover plastic in the channel with the end wall plastic?
To keep the end-wall plastic tight we use a combination of the Snap Clamps (shown at 2:32 and 4:27) and small pieces of Spring Wire to hold the end-wall plastic, and we leave them in place while the top cover is being pulled over top (video on this process coming soon). The Snap Clamps, and the small pieces of Spring Wire, can remain in place when installing the top cover, as the channel should be able to hold two runs of Spring Wire and two layers of plastic. It can get tight in the channel, however, which is why we use Snap Clamps to hold the end-wall plastic in place as much as possible. With Snap Clamps, your end-wall plastic can be secured without Spring Wire being used, which means you can successfully secure the top and end-wall plastic with one run of Spring Wire where they each overlap the channel that has been installed over your end-hoops.
We don't currently do a lot with irrigation set-ups so we likely won't have a video pertaining to those. As far as videos on installing circulation / exhaust fans...not yet, BUT it is only a matter of time; this is the first request we have gotten for a video pertaining to those specific hardware components, but we like the direction, and hopefully we can put one together soon here. In the meantime, we do have a video on Roll-up Side Installation if you need to get some guidance on installing roll-ups.
How do you join your wiggle wire track at corners? Miter 45, you seem to make a tee, if I am using two layers of plastic with intent to inflate won’t a tee leak or tear the poly?
Good questions! If you are going to inflate your end-walls I would recommend that you first make sure your inflation fan damper lets as little air through as necessary to inflate. Since your end-walls are less surface area of square footage there is more pressure put on all of the plastic at the channel to begin with. Regulating air flow will help mitigate any potential issues with this. Generally speaking, the amount of air space at the T channel connections shouldn't be a big enough air space to make inflation an issue. If the air pressure is regulated correctly, the T connection shouldn't be an issue for tearing either. Making perfect cuts of the channel before installing will completely get rid of the small air space where the perpendicular channel meets, as a T connection. If you think a miter 45 connection would work better for inflation purposes I would say go for it, though. While I have installed end-channel with miter connections, and it looked great, I am not certain the miter cuts would impact the inflated plastic one way or the other though. I did find that the miter cuts took longer to get accurate when installing, however.
Thanks for the question. You would need to have an additional layer of plastic and enough Spring Wire to double up on the installation of the material. Other than that you will need a Jumper Hose (we sell them on our site) to help "jump" inflation air from between your top covers into your end-wall covers. Due to the installation intricacies surrounding inflating an end-wall we often suggest people look into 8 mm Twin-Wall Polycarbonate... polycarb takes more installation work, but it lasts a loooong time. Best of luck with the double layer ends if you go that route though. Thanks for watching!
Unfortunately we don't, but thanks for the kind words and for watching our videos! Hopefully the videos can help make any build you take on just a little easier though. Best of luck!
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thank You, I am going to go outside today and measure and will get back with you on one. I think I will get a smaller one to start with, then get a larger one later. This way it will give me some practice on putting one up.
Get a complete structure Order of Operations install guide by joining our community here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/get-greenhouse-order-operations
Perfect! It's so hard to find videos about poly on end walls! Thanks for the super-informative video!
Thanks for watching, and for the kind words!
Great video, I also ordered an inflation fan kit from your site and you had better selection than most major suppliers, great job! They all seemed to have incomplete and "internal air" kits, almost like they have no idea what they're doing.
Thanks so much for supporting our small company, and for commenting. Happy you liked our site selection. We always just want to try and make it easy (easier at least). Thanks again!
You have a great voice for narrating. Are you working on a podcast?
Great video, thanks for the help.
Thanks for the kind words. No podcast in the works right now... maybe one day !
Your videos are so well-done and helpful! I bought a hoop house kit from another company. The product is great but the instructions are so poor, I turn Tunnel Vision to learn some great tips on installation. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words and for watching! Happy the videos have been helpful. If you need any additional building materials check out the Tunnel Vision Hoops website, we might have what you’re looking for. Thanks!
You made my day. This is the information I needed to upgrade my hoophouse. Thank you!
That is great news, glad you found the video helpful! We should be posting some similar videos soon.
Wow... Great Video... It helped me a lot... Thank You For Posting it...
You are welcome, and thanks for the kind words!
Well damn, after doing my first hoop house this past week, I watched this and realized I was supposed to do the end walls first. Oops! I’m the type of learner that needs to get my hands dirty first before I really understand something, so next time I pull plastic over the structure, I will get it right!
You should still be okay even though you did your top first, it might just be a little more effort than it otherwise would be. Thanks for the comment, and for supporting us! Thanks
Outstanding instructional!!
Thanks so much!
Nice video, very informative with a simple explanation that the average person could understand. Thank you very much!
Thanks for the kind words! We plan on continuing this process of making and posting videos so hopefully there are some more that we post that you find helpful.
Men performed ,I recommend u 100%
Thanks!
Great work! Thanks for the help!!!
Thanks! We will be publishing some new videos shortly here so stay tuned!
Very helpful video.
Thanks much!
Am gobsmacked --happy--at this series of GH activity.What is the 4 foot square fabric cloth in each corner for? Just to secure the corners against winds? Thank you.
The corner plastic are called "corner-wind-panels" and we do have a video on the installation of those as well. These pieces of plastic intend to block wind from easily entering the structure when the roll-up sides are in the down position - they help you keep wind out WITHOUT having to secure spring wire over the roll-up plastic and into the channel along the end-bow. You can check out our video for more details.
Thanks for watching!
Great videos, very helpful. I was curious your opinion on stapling down end walls on the base. I didnt have enough of channeling nor wiggle wire to do that. Was thinking maybe small channel with 2 ft of wiggle wire on the center of the base to hold temporarily and then install staples to the wooden base. Any input is helpful! Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words on the video! To answer your question, I wouldn't personally feel comfortable stapling the plastic to the wooden base. A staple is a very small point of pressure, and in heavy winds I would envision the plastic ripping right through the staple.
If it were me, I would order in more spring wire channel and wire to completely enclose the bottom of your end-wall. If this is not an option for budget or timing reasons, I would get a few furring strips (lumber) and secure the plastic using a furring strip method. For this method you would take a furring strip of lumber and press it against the plastic right at the point of the interior lumber (basically, sandwiching the plastic between your interior lumber framing and your exterior furring strip), and you would screw through the furring strip, through the plastic, and into the lumber framing. This would provide a bit more strength against winds than the staples, and it is still relatively inexpensive. Depending on the thickness of your furring strips you may need to pre-drill the furring strips to prevent the furring strip from splitting when driving the screws.
Good luck!
What type of snap clamps did you use in this video?
These are the ones I used: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/ Just make sure you select the snap clamps that correspond with the tube diameter you have.
Great video very informative! I have a question though, why do you have poly on the 4 corners by the end walls? What are they for? and how do you keep them in place?
Thanks for watching. Those corner plastic panels are called Corner Wind Panels, and they prevent wind from shooting behind the end of your roll-up side plastic into the structure. They are super beneficial in the edge seasons when you might be using the roll-up sides a ton, but it still gets cold at night. We actually have a video on how to install those pieces here: ruclips.net/video/AfsxdyaoWjk/видео.html Thanks again for watching!
All the videos I watch show putting up the post first for the walls, then coming back and put the bottom board. Would it not be easier to put the boards first, make a rectangle and then mark the top of the boards where the post would be align and then put the post in. This way if you put the boards straight, and you put the post, the boards will help guide the post straight into the ground. Just like when you form up for a slab.
That might possibly work, although I have never done it that way so I can't say for certain there wouldn't be a set of problems with it. If you want to try it out though just make sure you report back how it went!
its very nice installing green house but how much cost of material ?
The cost of the material can range depending on how simple or complex the structure you want to build is. It will also vary based on the size of your structure. The basic cost for greenhouse plastic per square ft. is fairly inexpensive though, especially since it lasts 4 to 7 years if installed tightly. If interested, you can browse a variety of building components on our site here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/building-components/
So you're using the same single channel on the end walls as the side wall? Two zip wires in one channel layered for two pieces of plastic? Is that a special channel that is deeper to accomidate two wires?
Thanks for watching. You are correct - it is the same channel. We install just one run of channel that goes from the ground on one side to the ground on the other side over the end-bow. We overlap the end-wall plastic and top cover plastic and install them into the same channel. The channel can hold two runs of wire, and up to 4-ish layers of plastic. Obviously you can install more wire if you have less plastic being held and vice versa.
Thanks again for the question and for watching!
IMPORTANT! Make sure you have NO wind that day.
Thanks for watching... that is DEFINITELY a good tip.
i built a 12 x 36 can i put the sides and top in the same channel at each end hoop?
Yes you can, most single channel will be able to hold two pieces of wire and two pieces of plastic.
What is the type ad length of the ladders that you are using. They look very sturdy and big enough to safely traverse around the tunnel.
The ladders are A-frame telescoping ladders. Brands differ, but most all big box hardware stores stock a version of them. There are usually two options for the ladders - one slightly smaller in reach than the other. We have two of each. The larger of the two allowed us to very comfortably work with hardware 14 to 15 feet off the ground.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome !
Thanks!
How to install top cover on a 100ft green house structures
Hi Joseph, we have a video on that process as well, which you can find here: ruclips.net/video/mWk51Ur_O10/видео.html
Do you cut the track on a 45° at the corners of the windows and doors
I don''t mitre cut where they meet. I used to do this but actually found the sharp edge where the 45 degree angles meet was more dangerous to the plastic (and plastic installation) that I started allowing one piece to dead-end directly into the the other piece. For example, if I put a vertical piece next to a door, I would allow that piece to extend about an inch or two above the doors' header THEN I would install the channel above the door on the header itself - I would allow that unit of channel to dead-end into the vertical channel I installed in the previous stem. If you were to zoom in on where the two channels converge it would look sorta' like a sideways "T". Hope this helps.
How do you keep the endwall plastic tight while installing the top cover? Don't you have to remove the wire top put the top cover plastic in the channel with the end wall plastic?
To keep the end-wall plastic tight we use a combination of the Snap Clamps (shown at 2:32 and 4:27) and small pieces of Spring Wire to hold the end-wall plastic, and we leave them in place while the top cover is being pulled over top (video on this process coming soon).
The Snap Clamps, and the small pieces of Spring Wire, can remain in place when installing the top cover, as the channel should be able to hold two runs of Spring Wire and two layers of plastic. It can get tight in the channel, however, which is why we use Snap Clamps to hold the end-wall plastic in place as much as possible.
With Snap Clamps, your end-wall plastic can be secured without Spring Wire being used, which means you can successfully secure the top and end-wall plastic with one run of Spring Wire where they each overlap the channel that has been installed over your end-hoops.
Yes. Looking forward to this video. We are in process on this right now! Great end wall video.
Thanks! We should have our greenhouse plastic top cover video done very soon as well, so stay tuned!
Is only 1 wiggle wire allowed per channel?
No, you can fit 2 or 3 spring wires and 2 to 3 layers of plastic in the channel we carry
Do you have any videos on installing circulation and exhaust fans or overhead mysting systems?
We don't currently do a lot with irrigation set-ups so we likely won't have a video pertaining to those. As far as videos on installing circulation / exhaust fans...not yet, BUT it is only a matter of time; this is the first request we have gotten for a video pertaining to those specific hardware components, but we like the direction, and hopefully we can put one together soon here. In the meantime, we do have a video on Roll-up Side Installation if you need to get some guidance on installing roll-ups.
How do you join your wiggle wire track at corners? Miter 45, you seem to make a tee, if I am using two layers of plastic with intent to inflate won’t a tee leak or tear the poly?
Good questions! If you are going to inflate your end-walls I would recommend that you first make sure your inflation fan damper lets as little air through as necessary to inflate. Since your end-walls are less surface area of square footage there is more pressure put on all of the plastic at the channel to begin with. Regulating air flow will help mitigate any potential issues with this.
Generally speaking, the amount of air space at the T channel connections shouldn't be a big enough air space to make inflation an issue. If the air pressure is regulated correctly, the T connection shouldn't be an issue for tearing either. Making perfect cuts of the channel before installing will completely get rid of the small air space where the perpendicular channel meets, as a T connection.
If you think a miter 45 connection would work better for inflation purposes I would say go for it, though. While I have installed end-channel with miter connections, and it looked great, I am not certain the miter cuts would impact the inflated plastic one way or the other though. I did find that the miter cuts took longer to get accurate when installing, however.
How do you install double layers of plastic in end walls
Thanks for the question. You would need to have an additional layer of plastic and enough Spring Wire to double up on the installation of the material. Other than that you will need a Jumper Hose (we sell them on our site) to help "jump" inflation air from between your top covers into your end-wall covers. Due to the installation intricacies surrounding inflating an end-wall we often suggest people look into 8 mm Twin-Wall Polycarbonate... polycarb takes more installation work, but it lasts a loooong time. Best of luck with the double layer ends if you go that route though. Thanks for watching!
Heck, Do you install in Louisiana?
Unfortunately we don't, but thanks for the kind words and for watching our videos! Hopefully the videos can help make any build you take on just a little easier though.
Best of luck!
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thank You, I am going to go outside today and measure and will get back with you on one. I think I will get a smaller one to start with, then get a larger one later. This way it will give me some practice on putting one up.