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No, if the tubing has been attached to the plastic parallel to the hip rail, and a gear box is being used at one end, the side should roll up parallel to the hip rail. It will be important to drive a screw or two through the snap clamps and into the bow to ensure they don’t slide a bit over time though.

Hi there! It kind of depends on what type of rocky soil you're dealing with. If the soil is rocky just at the top, like a layer of gravel, you can move that aside where you will drive the post and it should go in well. If you are talking about the unpredictability of in-ground rocks, there isn't a whole lot that can be done except for digging out rocks that stop progress of the post from being anchored. I have had some structures go in without any rocks being hit, and I've had others where it felt like almost every single ground post hits a rock. Sometimes they are simple to remove, and other times they are a headache - unfortunately it comes down to luck. Usually if I hit a rock that stops progress on a ground post, I will move on until all ground posts are in. This way I can see how many need adjusted, and it often times is just a few. I also do this because if just one or two need fixed, depending on how deep the rock is, it may make more sense to alter the length of the ground post instead of digging out the rock... again, this needs to be determined on a case by case basis, because you want to make sure you have a well anchored structure (that is number one). There are ways to ensure there are no rocks, if you are going to anchor ground posts in concrete, however that is likely an even more labor intensive process since it involves trenching in advance of anchoring. If you purchased one of our DIY Kits, and want to talk through the various ways I've removed rocks, cut ground posts, and more, please don't hesitate to call into our tech support line any time!

Happy to hear the videos have helped you. Thanks for the kind words and the sub! I’m always editing more videos so hopefully I can get more published soon!

Very cool! Thanks for the comment, and for the kind words. I always have more videos being edited so hopefully I can get more published soon :) good luck with your new build!

We manufacture these bows and rafters with large diameter heavy gauge galvanized steel tubing.

Thanks for the kind words!

Hey there, thanks for the question. I do not think there would be an issue with how you describe setting up the anti-billow system. Thanks for watching!

The blower fans run continually, and don’t get turned off. Technically, you COULD turn them off for periods of time, but since the exterior most layer is not installed super tightly it would be advisable to keep the fan on so as to take up the slack of the plastic and prevent it from moving in the wind (which could lead to it taking more abuse than it otherwise would). Thanks for watching our vids!

You are welcome!

You’re more than welcome!

You’re welcome, happy to help! Thanks for all the comments!

You are welcome!

Oh my gosh, that does sound like a problem! Good luck!!

Corner Wind Panels; we actually have a video showing how those are installed - you can find it on our RUclips channel by checking out our earliest videos… it was actually one of the first few we ever made. Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much for the kind words, and for watching! Have a great season!

Happy to hear, thanks for the update!

Sounds good, and thanks for letting us know!

Thanks, happy you found it helpful! The structures in the video vary from 14.5 ft. wide up to 30 ft. wide.

Thanks for the comment and the kind words. If you have to seal up for winter and have roll-up sides, you can add spring wire where the excess roll-up side plastic overlaps the end hoop at each end. For along the bottom you could add a shin-wall, and additional spring wire channel if you wanted, in order to create a more closed off system. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!

Pretty much, yes, the small leakage of air is unavoidable, even if hardly detectable. If the fans don’t run constantly, the inflation would not be maintained for long. As for two vs one fan, in specific scenarios the use of two fans could make sense, but one fan should suffice in most cases, and since one fan costs less than two both in cost of the fan, but also to operate, two fans wouldn’t often make sense. I’ve also seen some instances where too much air pressure is applied, which is another reason one fan could be considered better than running two. Thanks for the comment!

We do. Here is a link to the polycarb channels we carry www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/greenhouse-covers/polycarbonate/ (they're all for 8mm twin-wall polycarb). Thanks for watching and for the comment

Nice! Great idea for consistency!

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

Thank you so much for watching and the kind words! We do the best we can to make helpful videos!

What kind of “clip” are you referring to. Are you talking about brace bands? If so you may be able unscrew a couple of the tek screws and squeeze the brace bands under the channel. A hammer could help you pound the brace band where you need it. Good luck!

My gosh, Thank you for answering.. I was in tears last night! It's nice that you answer as much as you can. Some people post videos and disappear! Anyway ...I want to attach the pipe strap pieces that hold the 2x4 "studs" from the top of the greenhouse frame to the bottom 2 x 4 ground piece. I don't know what anything is called. I thought once you put the spring wire channel onto the greenhouse frame it is set in stone because of the self tapping screws...? @@tunnelvisionhoops

You’re welcome! There are a couple of options. Obviously it would be easiest if the channel wasn’t on, but there are still ways to make things work. If the tek screws are in you can do one of two things: 1. Remove a couple of tek screws holding the channel where you want a stud to connect, and then hammer a brace band onto the bow so it slides under the channel. Here is a brace band: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/brace-band/ this would then allow you to attach a 2x4 bracket to the brace band www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/bracket-assembly-for-lumber/ Then you would have to reattach the channel by re driving the tek screws back in. This method will require some bullying of the brace band to both get it in place AND to get the ends of the brace band close enough together to hold a bracket and receive a bolt. 2. You could also potentially leave the channel in place, and purchase a twist plate www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/twist-plate-brace-band-assembly-for-greenhouse-end-wall-framing-lumber-or-steel-includes-bolt-nut/ forego using the brace band that comes with the twist plate assembly, and bolt THROUGH your hoop with a longer bolt, and into the top hole of the twist plate, and then connect the rest of the unit down below to the 2x4 stud. In a lot of ways this may be more difficult to execute, but it provides an option for those who want to attempt to leave the channel in place. You would have to drill all the way through your hoop wherever you wanted a stud if you went this route so that isn’t the simplest. Just something to consider. Both methods require some work, but anything can be changed or redone with these structures so don’t worry too much about the channel being installed, you can always back it off and put it back in place later on. Good luck!

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching

@@tunnelvisionhoops what's the noise like inside these? I was thinking of using something like this as an outdoor temporary workspace

Happy to hear! Thanks for the kind words, and for watching our videos.

No, it's free, and the advice they give is priceless when working on a budget and can't afford to make mistakes

How are they supposed to send it to you?

Free doesn't mean without circumstances...

Hello! We haven’t done consulting before, but maybe we will one day. What kind of information are you seeking?

Thanks for the order and for supporting our small business! If you have questions ANY time during the build process, don’t hesitate to call in to the technical support line (ext. 0) and we can provide additional guidance. Thanks again!

Thank you very much for working with me and answering all my questions. I know I can be annoying sometimes asking so many questions, but it is only to learn more.@visionhoops

Definitely not annoying. Asking questions is the best way to familiarize yourself with the kits. Feel free to call in anytime during your build :)

Here is a link, www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/ and there is also a link in this video’s description. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and for the kind words. Shade cloth should always help with the interior temperature although it is very important for there to be ventilation of some kind to ensure the hottest air can move out of the structure. I am not familiar with the green square product you mention, however, increasing the shaded percentage of the structure definitely takes the edge off of temperatures. We have customers installing 50% shade and still growing tomatoes if that provides any additional context for you. Good luck!

Here is the plastic we use: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/greenhouse-covers/ - I will also say that there are other factors that could impact the life of your plastic cover such as: - if your bows are PVC - if your attachment method is subpar - if the plastic is not tightly installed - if sharp exposed metal comes in contact with the plastic - if it was damaged slightly during the install and then gets worse over time. - if you buy regular contractor plastic it will never last longer than a year The above are just to name the main ones. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!

Some people purchase this channel having never used it before, and they are curious / anxious it will not conform easily to the shape of their bow. This video was literally made because of the calls we get.

Lol, me to, and happy to hear that! To answer your question, yes, the DIY kits come with an insert for the bow anchors. This way you can use a sledge hammer without splaying/mushrooming the top of the anchors. While we supply the bow anchor caps as a standard, we don't supply a cap for the end-wall anchors as a standard (because there are fewer end-wall anchors), but if you wanted to add one, we can do so for the price of the post pounder - just ask your sales person to add it into the quote and they can do so. Thanks!