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You’re welcome! Thanks for watching

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching, and for the comment!

Happy to hear the video may be useful to your future efforts! Yes, the polycarbonate double walled end wall covers can handle wind much better, but you have to make sure you have more framing behind the polycarbonate so it can be attached appropriately (which will further help defend it against wind). Good luck and thanks for watching!

Good question, and to a point you are correct. That said, the way these specific extrusions are made [and by specific extrusions, I just mean the end-cap channel that is designed to both hold pliable plastic AND cover the polycarb ends] its dog ear does not extend super far downward. This means that it will be (and I know from making attempts) extremely difficult to accurately cut the polycarbonate just a little high, and still be able to work it into the end-cap channel. It ends up being too tall in some places, and still short in other places, etc. This is one of the reasons the metallic looking duct-tape is used to bridge the gap from the polycarbonate to the bow. It is to cover things up there and seal them since the end-cap extrusion going over it is more of a "roof" over the top of the polycarbonate, than it is fully containing it. THAT BEING SAID, if you want to get something that truly covers a few inches at the top, it could be better to purchase an aluminum "L" flashing and install that at the same exact time as you install a single poly lock channel. These would be two pieces (one for the "L" and one for the poly lock) so it would be a little annoying to install, but the aluminum "L" flashing has a nice aluminum clean look to it, and if you hold it on the end-bow at the same time as the single poly lock channel it all holds together all right once you get the first screw in. If you are in the market for the above, and keen to look further, shoot us an email at info (at) tunnelvisionhoops (dot) com and I can send pics and pricing for that material.

Arguments could be made for each type of greenhouse plastic, when used in specific ways. For me, I am (as of right now) a big fan of the industry standard 6 mil IRAD greenhouse plastic for top covers AND a big fan of 8 mm twin-wall polycarbonate end-wall covering. I have various reasons for this opinion... hmm, maybe I should make a video about this in the future

This is 2”x2”, 16 gauge, galvanized steel. Sometimes if we are designing for an engineered structure some of the studs will be 12, 13, or 14 gauge, but this is rarely the case.

I’m not sure exactly what you are asking. Are you asking what tubing lengths are required to make a bow that is 10 ft wide?

Yes

@tunnelvisionhoops yes

Gotchya. Well, it really depends on a your anchoring method, etc, but in general, a very common type of 10 ft. wide bow, that is a "round" / "quonset" style, typically takes two pieces of 10 ft. 6 in. tubing to create the two pieces that (when connected) provide a 10 ft. wide bow with an approximate 8 ft. height. Hope that answers your question!

@@tunnelvisionhoops okay thank you very much really appreciate the reply

You can, it would just be best to use 12’ long pieces if you can to ensure a two hole strap connection where double channel passes a bow at the middle of the 12’ piece. You could use the 6’ pieces too, I suppose, but if you do it will be 100% attached to bows at the union of double channels which is likely not totally ideal since you wouldn’t have any two hole strap connections.

There are pros and cons to rolling up and dropping down. Dropping down takes more hardware for install (and if novices are installing there is a higher likelihood of poor installation), and because they "drop" down and don't actually roll, it always results in a bunch of plastic bunched up near the ground when they are in the open position, which we are not fans of (both for potential wind issues, but also for potential damage over time). Additionally, drop down sides require a good weather seal be maintained near the hip-rail, which is more difficult, and if for some reason it has issues than the hip-rail location can become an issue for wind, water, and continual problems. At the end of the day, everyone has their preferences, but those are the reasons we prefer roll-up sides. Additionally, shin-walls can always be added to these structures which can protect young crops just as well without the issues I mention above. Thanks for watching!

@tunnelvisionhoops have 2' shin wall put up. May go ahead and chang to roll up. Wind issue here in central west Texas.

Hmm, I’ll double check that. Here is the link to tape: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/poly-repair-tape-various-sizes/

There are benefits to installing a hip-rail, especially if the structure is wide, but technically it is not needed if you do not have roll-up sides along that side. The other side (where roll-up sides won’t be) can just have single poly lock channel installed along the baseboard that runs along the ground. This would create one side with a roll-up side and the other side would seal along the ground.

Typically, depending on brand of plastic, you will want to be able to read the writing from the interior of the structure. Often times they literally will say “inside” or “this side in”. That being said, in talking with our manufacturer, the no drip additive is applied to both sides so if a mistake is made it isn’t the end of the world.

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching, and for dropping a comment :)

I can’t say with 100% certainty that the inflation doesn’t positively impact the insulation, but without it, maintaining a space between layers is difficult and so that is the inflations main function since the air space is the main goal in creating additional insulation. Also, as you mention, the constant air pressure has very positive benefits in how the plastic deflects wind, etc.

@@tunnelvisionhoops thanks a lot for the answer!

These are the ones I used: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/snap-clamps-pack-of-10/ Just make sure you select the snap clamps that correspond with the tube diameter you have.

Thanks for the kind words, and for watching 🤙

Our greenhouse is 80 ft x 34 ft and it went way smoother than I ever imagined!

Love to hear it, thanks for watching and the comment!

In that scenario, the polycarb would be better insulation.

The channel being installed in this video is used to hold end wall and top cover greenhouse plastic using spring wire.

You’re more than welcome. Thanks for the kind words, and for watching!

We have access to those, or I can direct to where you can find one. Shoot us an email at info(at)tunnelvisionhoops.com and we can give you more details

You are more than welcome! Thanks for watching. To answer your question, it is all about “dead air”. As in, if you install two layers of plastic and they are just laying on each other with no air between, there would not be a gain in insulation because there is no air gap. If you were to create a physical separation between layers so that an air space exists, there will be some insulation benefit. We used to use a spacer block that was manufactured by an Amish manufacturer that helped with this. We stopped using these because we didn’t like them, but it is possible to do something without electricity.

@@tunnelvisionhoops ty. I was thinking of the 2nd thing. But for some reason, I kinda belive the r value of a mechanical separation is inferior to that of an inflated separation, akin windows construction. Double windows aren't as effective as a double window with some gas inside. Am i wrong to believe that?

I think that is a fair assumption although I have no data I can reference to back that up for the high tunnel world. Also, even though the manual separation allows electricity to be avoided, the spacers we used to use were made of some form of plastic. So, from a "sustainability" / "low-impact-on-nature" perspective it is difficult to pick a winner between inflation and manual separation since they both require resources in different ways.

@@Natouk01 Mechanical separation doesnt prevent the cover from moving in windy conditions. If the cover moves, the air inside the cavity will move and you`ll lose most of the insulation value

@@tunnelvisionhoops Thanks. Youve given me much to ponder. :)

Wish I had seen a video of this type before doing this my first time.

No, if the tubing has been attached to the plastic parallel to the hip rail, and a gear box is being used at one end, the side should roll up parallel to the hip rail. It will be important to drive a screw or two through the snap clamps and into the bow to ensure they don’t slide a bit over time though.

Hi there! It kind of depends on what type of rocky soil you're dealing with. If the soil is rocky just at the top, like a layer of gravel, you can move that aside where you will drive the post and it should go in well. If you are talking about the unpredictability of in-ground rocks, there isn't a whole lot that can be done except for digging out rocks that stop progress of the post from being anchored. I have had some structures go in without any rocks being hit, and I've had others where it felt like almost every single ground post hits a rock. Sometimes they are simple to remove, and other times they are a headache - unfortunately it comes down to luck. Usually if I hit a rock that stops progress on a ground post, I will move on until all ground posts are in. This way I can see how many need adjusted, and it often times is just a few. I also do this because if just one or two need fixed, depending on how deep the rock is, it may make more sense to alter the length of the ground post instead of digging out the rock... again, this needs to be determined on a case by case basis, because you want to make sure you have a well anchored structure (that is number one). There are ways to ensure there are no rocks, if you are going to anchor ground posts in concrete, however that is likely an even more labor intensive process since it involves trenching in advance of anchoring. If you purchased one of our DIY Kits, and want to talk through the various ways I've removed rocks, cut ground posts, and more, please don't hesitate to call into our tech support line any time!

There might by, but my recommendation is The Winter Harvest Handbook by Eliot Coleman, or Four Season Harvest by Eliot Coleman. Thanks for watching!

Happy to hear the videos have helped you. Thanks for the kind words and the sub! I’m always editing more videos so hopefully I can get more published soon!

Very cool! Thanks for the comment, and for the kind words. I always have more videos being edited so hopefully I can get more published soon :) good luck with your new build!

This saved me so much work! Thanks so much!

@@lizcasxmp2 Happy to hear, thanks for watching!

We manufacture these bows and rafters with large diameter heavy gauge galvanized steel tubing.

Thanks for the kind words!

Hey there, thanks for the question. I do not think there would be an issue with how you describe setting up the anti-billow system. Thanks for watching!

The blower fans run continually, and don’t get turned off. Technically, you COULD turn them off for periods of time, but since the exterior most layer is not installed super tightly it would be advisable to keep the fan on so as to take up the slack of the plastic and prevent it from moving in the wind (which could lead to it taking more abuse than it otherwise would). Thanks for watching our vids!

You are welcome!

You’re more than welcome!

You’re welcome, happy to help! Thanks for all the comments!

You are welcome!

Oh my gosh, that does sound like a problem! Good luck!!

Corner Wind Panels; we actually have a video showing how those are installed - you can find it on our RUclips channel by checking out our earliest videos… it was actually one of the first few we ever made. Thanks for watching!