As an experienced plastic installer I caution people to use care keeping the plastic centered while pulling it from end to end over the peak. It will try sliding down if it becomes uncentered or if any wind pushes it. Calm winds are very desirable and having extra hands to help pull and hold sheets while securing wiggle wire is recommended. A house this size would be best done with six people. One at each corner on the ground and one in the air on ladders at the center peak of each end bow. This Video is packed with real world information and would recommend to anyone pulling sheets for the first time. Remember wind of any power will multiply difficulty and chance of ruining new poly. Experienced help doing this job is a game changer.
You do a really nice job of making these videos. The camera positioning, editing, voiceovers, and text tags are all very well done. You do a great job of explaining what you're doing in the video.
Thanks so much for the kind words. I definitely put a lot of time into the videos so I’m really happy to hear it comes through. Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
Great instructions. I going to buy a hoop house this spring. Was at first leaning towards high sidewalk by growers solutions but don’t really like the style. Then had seen Zimmermans on some videos. This is the same style. I think I’ll contact you folks and compare
Thanks for the feedback, Bill. We would definitely love to quote you a structure to compare with the others. The main structure shown in this video can come with 4 ft., 6 ft., or even 8 ft. High sidewalls so there are a lot of options with it. Feel free to send us a message anytime or submit a quote request here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/greenhouses/ Thanks again for watching!
Missing step: Go to goodwill and get a bunch of junk clothes to bundle up and put over the SHARP CORNERS of the tops of your ladders. Trashy knit sweaters are excellent for this. Using two ropes and two people spread apart at the other end while pulling the sheeting across allows for better capacity... using a Yardarm (tall post with a pulley on it) at the other end is ultimate win.
Tip: use a leaf blower to inflate your greenhouse, uninflated double polly does not like heavy gusts of wind. (only an issue if the wind comes up during installation.) also useful if you lose power and have to get it inflated during a storm.
Good question, Josh. This structure is getting roll-up sides from the hip-rail down to the baseboards. Sorting out inflation where sides move freely is much more difficult and for that reason almost all structures you see with functioning roll-up sides will only have plastic inflated from hip-rail to hip-rail. If a structure does not have roll-up sides, and instead relies on exhaust fan ventilation, the second layer of plastic would extend all the way to the ground on each side, and would attach to the baseboards with spring wire and spring wire channel. Hope that helps explain things, and thanks so much for watching!
@tunnelvisionhoops what would make someone decide between a blower fan that draws from the air inside the greenhouse vs one that draws from the outside air?
Hi @fremefreak, the main considerations someone takes into account when selecting an interior vs exterior blower fan are as follows: 1) Price 2) Ease of installation 3) Light transmission 4) Condensation between layers The interior air draw blower fan is less costly, and it has an easier installation. Since the air is being pulled from inside the structure you would only need to mount the blower fan and connect the deflector between the two layers. The exterior air draw blower fan has a couple of additional installation steps and is more costly. Regarding light transmission, and condensation between layers, exterior air draw blower fans likely create the environment between layers that ensures the greatest amount of light transmission gets through both layers of plastic. That is to say, when an exterior air draw blower fan is used there is less condensation between the layers of plastic, which means more light actually gets through both layers of plastic. It may provide a significantly greater amount of light transmission, but because condensation is kept low, it certainly ensures more light gets through. With the above being said, we have customers using both types of blower fans with great success, and both have successfully shown to have insulative benefits, deflect wind, and help shed snow. Hope the above answers your question, and thanks for watching!
i have a double layer greenhouse almost like this - is there a way to put gutters on this structure to catch rainwater and do you have a video. Thank you for all you do. If I need anything from here on out I will order from you. My structure was built years ago by an individual down here in Texas.
Hi Bill, thanks for the kind words, and for watching. I don't have any videos on installing gutters for these structures, but I have installed them on tunnels multiple times, and here is a rundown on what I did: The way I did it was by installing a lumber hip-rail (2x6 minimum width), and then I installed single aluminum channel as far up on that 2x6 and as far down on that 2x6 as possible. Then I had a decent amount of space, maybe 3.5 to 4 inches in between those "runs" of channel. That is where I installed the gutter hangers and hung the gutters. This seemed to work just fine, and the gutters were K-Style Vinyl gutters so they could easily be removed before the winter, since leaving the gutters on in the winter isn't a great idea if the area the structure is in gets snow. I also recently visited a farm that installed the gutters against their baseboards... I had not thought of this before, but this put the gutters at ground level and the gutters ran down each side to a tote where the water was collected. Their structure was on a hill so it worked out perfectly for them since the tote was quite large but it wasn't sub-grade because of the drop in the hill at the end of their structure.
I notice that your ridge-pole is mounted on the UNDERSIDE of the hoops in this installation--yet on many of your other videos, the ridge-pole is mounted ABOVE the hoops. I'm planning to install a 30x40' greenhouse this spring in central Canada: can you talk briefly about the advantages/disadvantages of both approaches?
Good question. When a customer purchases a single layer structure, initially we provide the purlin so it sits on top of the bows… it creates a straight peak line at the top and prevents sagging if it snows. If they add a double layer in the future they can leave the purlin as it is and just use a jumper hose to move the air from one side of the purlin to the other. For structures we sell that are purchased with two layers of plastic we put the purlin on the interior so there is some additional wiggle-room for the inflated air to make it’s way to the other half of the tunnel past the peak. At the end of the day it doesn’t matter too much unless the structure will always be covered with just one layer of poly. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thanks, that makes sense... I'm almost certainly going to add a second layer to my kit, so will likely place the top purlin under the bows. I have several other questions, but don't want to clog up this comments section. Let me know if there is a better forum for my inquiries.. Fantastic content, by-the-way... I will be highlighting your site at my next Permaculture meeting!
Thanks for the kind words, Tim. You can always ask questions in the comments thread, I don't mind at all. I'll answer any question to the best of my ability.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Question: I was contemplating digging deep (16") baseboards of 3/4" pressure-treated plywood down into the ground on the outside of the ground-posts in order to provide some rodent-protection (we have pocket-gophers in this area). Beyond the need to ensure the ground-anchors are at sufficient depth to hold in strong wind, are you aware of any good reason not to do this? Also: do you have a distributor you work with in Canada?
While you technically could do what you are talking about, I think submerging plywood and having it in direct contact with the ground will ultimately result in warped wood, and headaches down the line. When I’ve seen farms using plywood as the baseboard, it seems to very quickly get damaged by water and it warps and gets wavy, and has air gaps periodically through its length. It is also not particularly strong compared to 2x6 or 2x8 lumber, and prolonged contact with soil and water will lead to it breaking down faster. I have had some success digging down and laying landscape cloth / chicken wire types of material beneath grade, then bringing the top up just above the earth, and then attaching the baseboards against the exterior side of the structure, which puts pressure on the wire mesh, sandwiching it against the structure. Perhaps what you outlined would work, but I’m a fan of the wire mesh for keeping pests out. We don’t have any Canadian distributors as of the time of my writing this, but thanks for asking.
The blower fans run continually, and don’t get turned off. Technically, you COULD turn them off for periods of time, but since the exterior most layer is not installed super tightly it would be advisable to keep the fan on so as to take up the slack of the plastic and prevent it from moving in the wind (which could lead to it taking more abuse than it otherwise would). Thanks for watching our vids!
Does the double layer help cool the house in the summer? I purchased a blowers from you guys but haven't used it yet. I have shadecloth to put over the top.
Hi John, thanks for buying the blower fan, and supporting the channel! There has been some research showing that double layer covered structures DO prevent more extreme temperature spikes (less days with max temps inside the structure over 98 degrees F) when compared to single layer covered structures (more on this below). The Cleveland Botanical Gardens Green Corps Program (we are located in Cleveland) had two of our structures side by side, one with single layer and one with double layer, and they recorded temperatures throughout the summer and found that the double layer covered structure didn't spike as high in the summer. On the hottest days I believe the numbers were that it was between 4 and 7 degrees cooler in the double layered covered structure. This doesn't mean it wasn't hot in the double layered covered structure, just that it wasn't AS hot as the single layer covered structure. Of course, there are many variables as to why the above might have occurred, but other than the double vs single layer covering the two structures were identically built and on the same growing location. One hypothesis as to why it could be slightly cooler in a double layer covered structure would be light transmission; since greenhouse plastic only lets about 90% of the light through, it could be that a second layer of plastic and the condensation that occurs between those layers, reduces light transmission even further... almost like a non-shade cloth shading. Again, that is just my own hypothesis, but hopefully it provides food for thought. Thanks again for the comment, supporting the channel, and for watching!
If I remember correctly, my understanding is that the plastic has a surfactant (soap type compound) worked into the production process which helps move more liquid down the sides of the plastic, as opposed to allowing it to form drips.
We have access to those, or I can direct to where you can find one. Shoot us an email at info(at)tunnelvisionhoops.com and we can give you more details
I don't do double-layer poly on the ends because I get concerned that there will be too much pressure on the corners of the channel being installed on the face of the end-walls, and I get worried that it will break down too quickly there. I also get less concerned about not doing the end-walls because the top cover is the biggest "bang for your buck" due to the much larger surface area you can inflate with the top cover. Even though the ends seem large they are much smaller in surface area than the top cover. That said, I have heard of people inflating ends. I think the channel can hold four layers of poly BUT I would suggest trying to limit the number of wires in the channel because I don't think it would hold four layers of poly AND four layers of wire very well. Perhaps using snap clamps to hold both end-wall covers in place before attempting the two top cover installs. This would limit the wire in the channel making for a smoother installation. Good luck!
It largely would be dependent upon the type of plastic attachment hardware you have, but pretty much the answer to your question is “yes”. If your structure is using poly lock spring wire channel, it would pretty much just require additional spring wire, additional plastic, and a blower fan. If the structure is peaked, a jumper hose could also be purchased to help disperse air from one half of the structure to the other. Thanks for watching!
Typically, depending on brand of plastic, you will want to be able to read the writing from the interior of the structure. Often times they literally will say “inside” or “this side in”. That being said, in talking with our manufacturer, the no drip additive is applied to both sides so if a mistake is made it isn’t the end of the world.
Pretty much, yes, the small leakage of air is unavoidable, even if hardly detectable. If the fans don’t run constantly, the inflation would not be maintained for long. As for two vs one fan, in specific scenarios the use of two fans could make sense, but one fan should suffice in most cases, and since one fan costs less than two both in cost of the fan, but also to operate, two fans wouldn’t often make sense. I’ve also seen some instances where too much air pressure is applied, which is another reason one fan could be considered better than running two. Thanks for the comment!
If you don’t have roll-up sides you could jump the hip rail with a jumper hose instead of adding a blower fan. If you do have roll up sides you could do the same thing, but before inflating the plastic when a roll bar is attached to it, you would need to make sure each end is sealed and attached to the structure with spring wire AND that the full length of the roll bar is immobile/resting firmly on the baseboard. There is often a specific type of roll bar and baseboard used for this. We don’t really mess with inflating the roll up sides for this reason. You would also have to make sure the air is shut off when rolling up the sides since the air pressure could be too much for the sides to deal with. These are just some of the considerations, and again, because there is so much that goes into it, we don’t currently inflate roll up sides.
It would still have benefits, BUT shade cloth, exhaust fans, an evaporative cooling system, or a combination of all three might be more of a benefit for your climate. Thanks for watching!
It can be found at minute 16:38 of the video. Essentially, the hose allows air to move from the inflated section to a section that may not get air from the blower fan… for instance, when there is a “run” of spring wire; the jumper hose allows you to “jump” the air from the inflator fan instead of having to buy a second inflator fan.
Get a complete structure Order of Operations install guide by joining our community here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/get-greenhouse-order-operations
As an experienced plastic installer I caution people to use care keeping the plastic centered while pulling it from end to end over the peak. It will try sliding down if it becomes uncentered or if any wind pushes it. Calm winds are very desirable and having extra hands to help pull and hold sheets while securing wiggle wire is recommended. A house this size would be best done with six people. One at each corner on the ground and one in the air on ladders at the center peak of each end bow. This Video is packed with real world information and would recommend to anyone pulling sheets for the first time. Remember wind of any power will multiply difficulty and chance of ruining new poly. Experienced help doing this job is a game changer.
Wish I had seen a video of this type before doing this my first time.
Today we getting 45 mph winds and the double poly makes a huge difference. Thank you Tunnel Vision!!!!! here from Louisiana!!!!
Happy to hear, thanks for the update!
this is probably the best video I've found for this project. Thorough and efficient, thank you.
You’re more than welcome. Thanks for the kind words, and for watching!
Thanks for providing this quality video. It really clarifies all my questions about double poly install. Take care!
Awesome, so happy to hear that. Thanks so much for watching, and for the kind words!
You do a really nice job of making these videos. The camera positioning, editing, voiceovers, and text tags are all very well done. You do a great job of explaining what you're doing in the video.
Thanks so much for the kind words. I definitely put a lot of time into the videos so I’m really happy to hear it comes through. Thanks for watching, and for the comment!
@@tunnelvisionhoops Could you make all of the videos about everything? Seriously, great work.
Thank you for making this video!
You’re welcome! Thank YOU for watching!
WOW! that dude at 1:00 is stoked about double layers. Great Video!
Ha! Glad you caught that... That dude DEFINITELY loves the craft. Thanks for helping that day!
So informative. Thanks for sharing your experience!!!!
Thanks, Martin. I appreciate the kind words, and thanks for watching!
That’s for the videos.
I am about to build my own greenhouse and your videos have been really helpful.
Much appreciated keep the videos coming.
Thanks, Mark, I’m happy to hear the videos have been helpful. More videos are on the way! Thanks for watching
Great instructions. I going to buy a hoop house this spring. Was at first leaning towards high sidewalk by growers solutions but don’t really like the style. Then had seen Zimmermans on some videos. This is the same style. I think I’ll contact you folks and compare
Thanks for the feedback, Bill. We would definitely love to quote you a structure to compare with the others. The main structure shown in this video can come with 4 ft., 6 ft., or even 8 ft. High sidewalls so there are a lot of options with it. Feel free to send us a message anytime or submit a quote request here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/greenhouses/
Thanks again for watching!
Missing step: Go to goodwill and get a bunch of junk clothes to bundle up and put over the SHARP CORNERS of the tops of your ladders. Trashy knit sweaters are excellent for this.
Using two ropes and two people spread apart at the other end while pulling the sheeting across allows for better capacity... using a Yardarm (tall post with a pulley on it) at the other end is ultimate win.
Shared to twitter. Hope you get more exposure. Great video.
Hey, thanks so much, I really appreciate that. Thanks for watching, and for the kind words 🙏
Tip: use a leaf blower to inflate your greenhouse, uninflated double polly does not like heavy gusts of wind. (only an issue if the wind comes up during installation.) also useful if you lose power and have to get it inflated during a storm.
Very helpful, thank you sir...
Thanks for the kind words, and for watching.
Thanks for your help
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching
Excellent video. Thank you for a great channel.
Thanks so much for watching, and for the kind words, Jeff!
Thank you for the thorough how to! Is there a reason the second layer of plastic did not extend to the baseboard?
Good question, Josh. This structure is getting roll-up sides from the hip-rail down to the baseboards. Sorting out inflation where sides move freely is much more difficult and for that reason almost all structures you see with functioning roll-up sides will only have plastic inflated from hip-rail to hip-rail.
If a structure does not have roll-up sides, and instead relies on exhaust fan ventilation, the second layer of plastic would extend all the way to the ground on each side, and would attach to the baseboards with spring wire and spring wire channel.
Hope that helps explain things, and thanks so much for watching!
Will those tracks hold 2 layers of plastic/wiggle wire? Started with single layer, want to go back over with 2nd layer now.
Hey there. Yes, the channel we use can definitely hold two layers of plastic and two layers of wire. Thanks for watching!
@tunnelvisionhoops what would make someone decide between a blower fan that draws from the air inside the greenhouse vs one that draws from the outside air?
Hi @fremefreak, the main considerations someone takes into account when selecting an interior vs exterior blower fan are as follows:
1) Price
2) Ease of installation
3) Light transmission
4) Condensation between layers
The interior air draw blower fan is less costly, and it has an easier installation. Since the air is being pulled from inside the structure you would only need to mount the blower fan and connect the deflector between the two layers. The exterior air draw blower fan has a couple of additional installation steps and is more costly.
Regarding light transmission, and condensation between layers, exterior air draw blower fans likely create the environment between layers that ensures the greatest amount of light transmission gets through both layers of plastic. That is to say, when an exterior air draw blower fan is used there is less condensation between the layers of plastic, which means more light actually gets through both layers of plastic. It may provide a significantly greater amount of light transmission, but because condensation is kept low, it certainly ensures more light gets through.
With the above being said, we have customers using both types of blower fans with great success, and both have successfully shown to have insulative benefits, deflect wind, and help shed snow.
Hope the above answers your question, and thanks for watching!
i have a double layer greenhouse almost like this - is there a way to put gutters on this structure to catch rainwater and do you have a video. Thank you for all you do. If I need anything from here on out I will order from you. My structure was built years ago by an individual down here in Texas.
Hi Bill, thanks for the kind words, and for watching. I don't have any videos on installing gutters for these structures, but I have installed them on tunnels multiple times, and here is a rundown on what I did:
The way I did it was by installing a lumber hip-rail (2x6 minimum width), and then I installed single aluminum channel as far up on that 2x6 and as far down on that 2x6 as possible. Then I had a decent amount of space, maybe 3.5 to 4 inches in between those "runs" of channel. That is where I installed the gutter hangers and hung the gutters. This seemed to work just fine, and the gutters were K-Style Vinyl gutters so they could easily be removed before the winter, since leaving the gutters on in the winter isn't a great idea if the area the structure is in gets snow.
I also recently visited a farm that installed the gutters against their baseboards... I had not thought of this before, but this put the gutters at ground level and the gutters ran down each side to a tote where the water was collected. Their structure was on a hill so it worked out perfectly for them since the tote was quite large but it wasn't sub-grade because of the drop in the hill at the end of their structure.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Excellent info thanks.
I see you have options for different size blower fans on your website, how would I know which one to choose?
I notice that your ridge-pole is mounted on the UNDERSIDE of the hoops in this installation--yet on many of your other videos, the ridge-pole is mounted ABOVE the hoops. I'm planning to install a 30x40' greenhouse this spring in central Canada: can you talk briefly about the advantages/disadvantages of both approaches?
Good question. When a customer purchases a single layer structure, initially we provide the purlin so it sits on top of the bows… it creates a straight peak line at the top and prevents sagging if it snows. If they add a double layer in the future they can leave the purlin as it is and just use a jumper hose to move the air from one side of the purlin to the other. For structures we sell that are purchased with two layers of plastic we put the purlin on the interior so there is some additional wiggle-room for the inflated air to make it’s way to the other half of the tunnel past the peak. At the end of the day it doesn’t matter too much unless the structure will always be covered with just one layer of poly. Hope that helps, and thanks for watching!
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thanks, that makes sense... I'm almost certainly going to add a second layer to my kit, so will likely place the top purlin under the bows. I have several other questions, but don't want to clog up this comments section. Let me know if there is a better forum for my inquiries.. Fantastic content, by-the-way... I will be highlighting your site at my next Permaculture meeting!
Thanks for the kind words, Tim. You can always ask questions in the comments thread, I don't mind at all. I'll answer any question to the best of my ability.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Question: I was contemplating digging deep (16") baseboards of 3/4" pressure-treated plywood down into the ground on the outside of the ground-posts in order to provide some rodent-protection (we have pocket-gophers in this area). Beyond the need to ensure the ground-anchors are at sufficient depth to hold in strong wind, are you aware of any good reason not to do this? Also: do you have a distributor you work with in Canada?
While you technically could do what you are talking about, I think submerging plywood and having it in direct contact with the ground will ultimately result in warped wood, and headaches down the line. When I’ve seen farms using plywood as the baseboard, it seems to very quickly get damaged by water and it warps and gets wavy, and has air gaps periodically through its length. It is also not particularly strong compared to 2x6 or 2x8 lumber, and prolonged contact with soil and water will lead to it breaking down faster.
I have had some success digging down and laying landscape cloth / chicken wire types of material beneath grade, then bringing the top up just above the earth, and then attaching the baseboards against the exterior side of the structure, which puts pressure on the wire mesh, sandwiching it against the structure.
Perhaps what you outlined would work, but I’m a fan of the wire mesh for keeping pests out.
We don’t have any Canadian distributors as of the time of my writing this, but thanks for asking.
To the point, on subject. The way it should be done.
Thank you, we try to be! Thanks for watching.
Question about the blower, do you unplug it after inflated ? And is this something that gets intermittently turned on as needed ?
The blower fans run continually, and don’t get turned off. Technically, you COULD turn them off for periods of time, but since the exterior most layer is not installed super tightly it would be advisable to keep the fan on so as to take up the slack of the plastic and prevent it from moving in the wind (which could lead to it taking more abuse than it otherwise would). Thanks for watching our vids!
Does the double layer help cool the house in the summer? I purchased a blowers from you guys but haven't used it yet. I have shadecloth to put over the top.
Hi John, thanks for buying the blower fan, and supporting the channel! There has been some research showing that double layer covered structures DO prevent more extreme temperature spikes (less days with max temps inside the structure over 98 degrees F) when compared to single layer covered structures (more on this below).
The Cleveland Botanical Gardens Green Corps Program (we are located in Cleveland) had two of our structures side by side, one with single layer and one with double layer, and they recorded temperatures throughout the summer and found that the double layer covered structure didn't spike as high in the summer. On the hottest days I believe the numbers were that it was between 4 and 7 degrees cooler in the double layered covered structure. This doesn't mean it wasn't hot in the double layered covered structure, just that it wasn't AS hot as the single layer covered structure.
Of course, there are many variables as to why the above might have occurred, but other than the double vs single layer covering the two structures were identically built and on the same growing location. One hypothesis as to why it could be slightly cooler in a double layer covered structure would be light transmission; since greenhouse plastic only lets about 90% of the light through, it could be that a second layer of plastic and the condensation that occurs between those layers, reduces light transmission even further... almost like a non-shade cloth shading. Again, that is just my own hypothesis, but hopefully it provides food for thought.
Thanks again for the comment, supporting the channel, and for watching!
What makes the inside IR condensation control work exactly? How does it avoid condensation over regular greenhouse plastic?
If I remember correctly, my understanding is that the plastic has a surfactant (soap type compound) worked into the production process which helps move more liquid down the sides of the plastic, as opposed to allowing it to form drips.
Do you sell a pressure relief valve for the double wall inflated plastic ?
We have access to those, or I can direct to where you can find one. Shoot us an email at info(at)tunnelvisionhoops.com and we can give you more details
If you have to put plastic on each end is it worth doubling the ends and if so is that four layers of plastic going to go down in one channel?
I don't do double-layer poly on the ends because I get concerned that there will be too much pressure on the corners of the channel being installed on the face of the end-walls, and I get worried that it will break down too quickly there. I also get less concerned about not doing the end-walls because the top cover is the biggest "bang for your buck" due to the much larger surface area you can inflate with the top cover. Even though the ends seem large they are much smaller in surface area than the top cover. That said, I have heard of people inflating ends. I think the channel can hold four layers of poly BUT I would suggest trying to limit the number of wires in the channel because I don't think it would hold four layers of poly AND four layers of wire very well. Perhaps using snap clamps to hold both end-wall covers in place before attempting the two top cover installs. This would limit the wire in the channel making for a smoother installation. Good luck!
Hi, so you can instal the second layer on any single layer greenhouse ? and make it double layer greenhouse ?
It largely would be dependent upon the type of plastic attachment hardware you have, but pretty much the answer to your question is “yes”.
If your structure is using poly lock spring wire channel, it would pretty much just require additional spring wire, additional plastic, and a blower fan. If the structure is peaked, a jumper hose could also be purchased to help disperse air from one half of the structure to the other.
Thanks for watching!
Does the writing on the no drip plastic go up or down?
Typically, depending on brand of plastic, you will want to be able to read the writing from the interior of the structure. Often times they literally will say “inside” or “this side in”. That being said, in talking with our manufacturer, the no drip additive is applied to both sides so if a mistake is made it isn’t the end of the world.
So I take it, there is leakage and that is why the blower runs all the time to keep it inflated. Also could you not use 2 blowers, one for each side?
Pretty much, yes, the small leakage of air is unavoidable, even if hardly detectable. If the fans don’t run constantly, the inflation would not be maintained for long. As for two vs one fan, in specific scenarios the use of two fans could make sense, but one fan should suffice in most cases, and since one fan costs less than two both in cost of the fan, but also to operate, two fans wouldn’t often make sense. I’ve also seen some instances where too much air pressure is applied, which is another reason one fan could be considered better than running two. Thanks for the comment!
I take it you need two blower fans then if you want both side inflated below double aluminum channel on opposite side?
If you don’t have roll-up sides you could jump the hip rail with a jumper hose instead of adding a blower fan.
If you do have roll up sides you could do the same thing, but before inflating the plastic when a roll bar is attached to it, you would need to make sure each end is sealed and attached to the structure with spring wire AND that the full length of the roll bar is immobile/resting firmly on the baseboard. There is often a specific type of roll bar and baseboard used for this. We don’t really mess with inflating the roll up sides for this reason. You would also have to make sure the air is shut off when rolling up the sides since the air pressure could be too much for the sides to deal with. These are just some of the considerations, and again, because there is so much that goes into it, we don’t currently inflate roll up sides.
will this be applicable if i have hot/tropical weather in the philippines?
It would still have benefits, BUT shade cloth, exhaust fans, an evaporative cooling system, or a combination of all three might be more of a benefit for your climate. Thanks for watching!
What does the jumper hose do?
It can be found at minute 16:38 of the video. Essentially, the hose allows air to move from the inflated section to a section that may not get air from the blower fan… for instance, when there is a “run” of spring wire; the jumper hose allows you to “jump” the air from the inflator fan instead of having to buy a second inflator fan.