Dude, you are the clearest and most helpful person on RUclips. My tiny Thai wife and I (60 years old) just put on a 96 foot long hoop house cover using your 2 person technique. It was even kind of easy. Thanks for your help.
i am currently building my greenhouse and was looking for a way to roll up the sides, and this video is exactly what I wanted to learn. i will be calling you for prices for the gearbox and other parts. thank you. daniel blake
Overall a great video and a great company to give support to their products. I did have a hard time figuring out installing the pole that the gear box rides on. The instructions you gave - to keep it paraelle to the end hoop and the gear box connection beyond the hoop, were inconsistant because the bolt wasn't long enough to get the pole out that far. Anyway, maybe a suggestion to clarify that part for others. Thanks for the support, you do well with the videos.
Great video. Only thing I don't understand is how to seal up for the winter. We have to heat our greenhouse for citrus and can't have any cold air leaking in.
Thanks for the comment and the kind words. If you have to seal up for winter and have roll-up sides, you can add spring wire where the excess roll-up side plastic overlaps the end hoop at each end. For along the bottom you could add a shin-wall, and additional spring wire channel if you wanted, in order to create a more closed off system. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
Looks like a real nice GH ! I've emailed my specs. I bought a cheap version of a 30' wide. The peak was too flat. I awoke one morning after a huge rain storm to find my green house TOTALLED! Nothing but bent hoops and huge puddles of water in the plastic. :( Will rebuild with a concrete floor as the 20 year landscape fabric permitted weeds to grow right through it, from one end of the GH to the other.
Good step by step video. I do have on question on the direction of the roll up. Wouldn't it be better to roll up the plastic in a counter clockwise direction so the water would run off the plastic easier??
Good question, and you could actually rotate it the opposite direction if you want to. I prefer rolling it up as shown in the video because I find that there is less friction put on the plastic at the point where the plastic contacts each hoop. When you roll the side up turning in the opposite direction, I find that the plastic begins to wear down prematurely at each bow. This wouldn't always happen I suppose, and it would depend partially on how the anti-billow system is set up too (and a variety of other factors), but that is why I prefer the roll up method shown in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks!!!!! Great video - pro presentation and personable. When we do our greenhouse - will definitely use your video as our jguide. Warm regards Jennie
Hi - great video! One thing that I'd like a closer look at is how the top of the gearbox guide pipe attaches to the end hoop of the greenhouse. Thanks!
Good question! I’m working on a video now where we discuss extender pipes and guide pipe placement. Extender pipes allow guide pipes to be installed so they don’t ‘kick’ out at the bottom when the operator is rolled up. Not sure when exactly it will publish, but soon I’d think. Stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
Hi, I'm very impressed with the quality of your greenhouse and attention on details. Question, is it also possible to do double purpose, inflatable sidewall and then roll them up during summer?
Thanks for the kind words, and for watching the video. There are ways to inflate the roll-up sides. You would need to weld the plastic on the edges where it overlaps the end-bow. Most people also use a special baseboard that better holds the roll-bar down. If you planned on having them inflated and in the down position for a long period of time, you could probably get away with inflating the sides with a jumper hose that moves air from the top to the sides (and then disconnecting this jumper hose in advance of when you would want to be able to use the roll-up sides). If you plan on operating the sides relatively frequently though you would likely require separate inflation fans for the sides that could be turned on and off as required. We don't specialize in this aspect of inflation so I would recommend reaching out to a company like Advancing Alternatives to get a full run-down on the hardware and configurations required to do this.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thank you for your advice and tips! 😁 But my ideas are to put 6 inches baseboard wood on top of the metal baseboard and put wire channel, so that in cold season I can air lock the roll-up plastic, and during summer I will remove the wire lock? (Hope this will work) I'm also planning to leave 3-5 inches gap in-between the two wire locks of the hip rim, so that the air will also flow down the side and I can avoid installing the jumper hose. I'm basically base in South of Portugal where the weather reach an average of 17-23 degree celsius and 10 in the very cold winter day. But so far, checking all of greenhouse in RUclips your greenhouse construction got my attention, very neat and professional and the way you answer back all questions is very professional too.
Thanks for the kind words. You can find the gearboxes used in the video here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/gear-crank-operator-package-7-1/ If you don't see them at the link you can send a contact form in at the Tunnel Vision Hoops LLC website and someone will get you info and pricing. Thanks for watching!
Great video I'm about to install plastic in the A.M. trying to do something similar with a PVC hoop house, could you go just a little more on the anti billowing installation. Do you just go every other one inside and outside? Thanks
I agree, and am actually editing another video on anti-billow currently. In the meantime, here is more info on what I do: I usually start the anti-billow rope at the hip rail on the end of the structure with my handle or operator (just a couple inches in from the end-hoop). I then bring the rope straight down to the baseboard, and then from their go up to the hip-rail at an angle, and back down to the baseboard at an angle so that there is a connection to anti-billow hardware every hoop. I have seen other builders make their anti-billow connections so they are separated every 8 or 12 feet though. I suppose it is also a bit of personal preference, but I like having a connection at every hoop (whether at the hip rail or at the baseboard). Hope that helps!
First, excellent video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. We followed your video and got the necessary supplies, it works exactly as you've described. The only problem we're running into is the plastic is so heavy in the center it sags the piping in the center. We used the snap clamps as described. We're thinking it's because we're using a heavier plastic. Any suggestions to fix this issue we're having? Thank you!
Thanks for watching, and good question. In my experience the weight of the plastic doesn't have any impact at all on how the roll-up side bar rests through the full length of the structure. Not to say it isn't possible in your situation, just that I have always found that type of sag to be caused by other issues. Here are the most common issues that I have seen cause this: 1. The baseboard of your structure follows the earth through the length of your structure and IT is lower in the middle, which means when you measure off of your baseboard your roll-up bar "sags" a little because it mirrors your baseboard. 2. The greenhouse plastic was fastened to the structure in a way where the far left and far right of the structures sides weren't pulled as tightly as the center of the sides, which means there will more excess poly in the center of the structure. This means as the weight of the roll bar rests on the structure it "stretches" the excess plastic out and their appears to be a sag in the center. 3. If the plastic hasn't been installed square to the structure you may find that there are symmetrical wrinkles that meet in the middle of the roll-up side. As you roll the side up these wrinkles get rolled over and create a larger diameter to the rolling bar and this compounds further as the side continues to roll-up - which creates a "sag" appearance in the roll-up where the wrinkles are most obvious. 4. Too few snap clamps were used and they moved a little as you rolled the bar up and down. This would happen also if you never drove a screw through them into the roll-bar. This is unlikely to be the issue, but I thought I would mention it here just in case. There are relative solutions for all of the above, but it might be best to send us an email at info(at)tunnelvisionhoops(dot).com along with some pictures so we can help you problem solve / trouble shoot. Thanks again for watching!
It really depends on a lot of variables, most importantly how much direct sunlight hits the structure throughout a day. This is an important variable because the structures' intent is to hold that heat throughout the night (as well as possible) until sun can begin to warm the structure the next morning again. For this reason, the temperature difference from inside to the outside can also depend on how well the structure is sealed to hold the heat that was gained during the day, through the duration of the evening. For this reason the temperature difference from the outside of the structure to the inside of the structure can really vary from just 4 degrees to 50 degrees. It all depends on the structure, the environment, maintenance practices, and more. While the heat in the structure is an important factor, the removal of wind pressure on plants can be equally beneficial.
Hello. Wonderful video and very well explanined. Thanks. What is the dimension of that poly house? Can you also make a video on how to bend and join galvanized pipes and use clamps, joints and connectors? Actually i am looking and getting ready to erect a small (50x20m) test poly tunnel for tomatoes growing.
Thanks for the kind words. We won't likely have a video on our bending process, although we may have some videos soon showing how to connect tubing using various clamps. As for the dimensions of the structure in the video, it is 24 ft. wide x 92 ft. long.
could this ventilation work fine for my purposes? I'm considering to grow tomatoes inside so I'm afraid about the acumulation of water at the peak of the greenhouse, I've read that if that water drop over the plant can be dangerious for them. Thanks again!
It will help for sure, but there are usually a number of variables that impact how much ventilation is needed. These variables include such things as the amount of water in the ground of your structure, how hot it is outside your structure, how much sun is shining, the humidity that exists outside your structure, etc. The list goes on as far as the potential variables that can impact how much water accumulates on the inside plastic of your structure... that said, having sides as shown in this video is a BIG help for allowing some of that air exchange to occur, and while unknown variables might still create dripping, having sides that roll-up and down will help reduce that dripping and improve the health of your tomatoes. The narrower your structure is the more effective roll-up sides are to ventilating your structure. For example, if your structure is 40 ft. wide x 96 ft. long you may want to consider additional end-wall ventilation that includes exhaust fans, as well as interior air movement fans...but if your structure is 16 ft. x 40 ft. or something similar, for example, roll-up sides will do A LOT for air movement, water evaporation, and the health of your plants.
I tend to, but it wouldn't change anything if you had decided to secure both runs of channel with spring wire before tackling your roll-up sides. Personally, I just like to get the roll-up tube on as soon as possible to prevent the excess side plastic from flapping around in the wind.
So we have a roll up side for our tunnel, and our grading is about 2%, or 2 feet for 96’ length. My question, our baseboards installed going with the grade would result it it being uneven the roll up sides. Also, we would use 4 or 5 baseboards for one side, and only one for another side. Any ideas? Should we go with the grade, or make the baseboards entirely level and have baseboards be almost 2 feet of spacing on one end? Thanks for your time! Have a great weekend!
This will really be determined by how you anchored. Did you install your anchors so that they “follow the grade” lengthwise, OR are all the ground posts perfectly level (which would mean the ground post anchors at one end would be out of the ground about 2’ more)? If your anchors have followed the grade of the earth, you could install your baseboards so they run along the ground also following the grade of the earth, and AS LONG AS YOUR HIPRAIL is a consistent distance up from your baseboard through its full length, the roll up side should still roll up without any issues / without getting “wonky”. Not sure if what I am outlining above makes sense, but whenever I can install a baseboard so I can avoid a big gap beneath it at one end, I do, but this would really require you to think about it at the time of anchoring. Hope that makes sense, and thanks for watching.
@@tunnelvisionhoops my greenhouses are also built on a slope and i think it would be easier with my grading issues, if my curtains could roll down to open and roll up to close, is that possible with this system?
Is the roll up pipe on the none cranking side just suspended on it's own or does it have something attached to it and it rides up a similar cranking pole?
The roll-up pipe on the end opposite the operators does NOT have a guide pipe. It is suspended by the plastic itself. The snap clamps (and the screws driven through them) ensure that it rolls evenly despite this. Believe it or not, the plastic does a good job holding the tube if the tubing has been attached to the plastic consistently through the full length of the house.
We could do a 14.5 ft. wide x 64 ft. long (they are on 4 ft. spacing between bows), or we could do a 17 ft. wide x 64 ft. long. Shoot us a message via our contact form on our website (tunnelvisionhoops.com) and we can send you detailed pricing and info on a few different structure configurations in these sizes. Basically, you can make them as simple or as decked-out as you wish, so pricing can vary from structure to structure. Feel free to shoot us a message and we can send you some quotes. Thanks!
Whamy do hip rails have 2 wire channels? Is that not just double work? Would one single channel not do the trick as most take at least 2 wires n 2 layers or film?
When people purchase one of our high tunnels / greenhouses we provide them with square steel tube end-wall kits. We pre-cut the steel members as much as possible, and provide detailed drawings, so the end-walls can be assembled as easily as possible.
Technically you can although most of the common hardware used for attaching the plastic cover to your roll-up side bar AND for attaching operators to the end of that roll-bar (whether 7:1 gear boxes or handles) are made to configure with 1.315" OD standard fence type tubing - which is referred to as 1 3/8" OD and is often sold at hardware stores and fence supply companies. Best of luck with whichever route you decide to take your roll-up side installation. Thanks for watching!
Do you need to screw a self-drilling screw into the EZ-Snap rope hooks, when they are clipped into the wiggle-wire lock channel?? Your Vidio does not show a screw into it, but I guess the downward or upward force on the clip, would keep it "locked" into the channel ?
Thanks for the comment, and I agree we could have shown more detail on the anti-billow rope aspect of the roll-up sides, which is why I am in the process of editing a video for those right now. To answer your question though, you would not need to add a screw due to the shape of the EZ Snap Hook. The downward pressure on the hardware and the shape of the EZ Snap Hook will hold it in place. With the above being said, if you are in a high wind zone and wanted a little more insurance you could drill a 1/4" hole through the hip rail at each EZ Snap Hook and pop a bolt through the EZ Snap Hook and the Hip Rail, and put a nut or lock nut on that bolt from the inside. This might be a little overkill, but this is an option for you if you wanted to take it to the next level.
No, if the tubing has been attached to the plastic parallel to the hip rail, and a gear box is being used at one end, the side should roll up parallel to the hip rail. It will be important to drive a screw or two through the snap clamps and into the bow to ensure they don’t slide a bit over time though.
You can find them here (www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/gear-crank-operator-package-7-1/), which is at the Tunnel Vision Hoops Website under "Sidewall Components". Thanks for watching!
Victor, you do not need to use a guide pipe if you are just using Handles as your roll-up side operator, BUT, if you plan to use a gear box operator you will need to use a guide post for those. Thanks for watching!
You would need to install two layers of plastic that stretch all the way to the baseboards, and then you would follow the steps outlined in the video, but you would just do so pretending both layers of plastic are a single layer. Once the roll-up bar is attached to both layers of plastic you would need to seal the plastic at each side where it overlaps the end hoops; this can be done using Spring Wire. You could also purchase a plastic sealer and seal the sides of the plastic before securing the poly to the roll-up bar. If you are concerned that the pressure from the inflation fan is too much for the roll-up bar connections, you can also run spring wire channel the full length of the tunnel near the point at which the roll-up bar rests on the baseboard. Wiring the roll-up plastic the full length will ensure that the inflation stop at the Spring Wire, which will limit the pressure on the roll-up bar attachment. This is likely the most ideal for scenarios where the roll-up bar is secured as it is in this video (using Snap Clamps). If you secure your roll-up sides to the roll-up bar with a different method, where spring wire can hold the plastic directly to the roll-up bar, you would likely be able to get away with inflating the roll-up side without installing a full run of single aluminum channel near the baseboard. Best of luck with your project!
With both sides rolled up, what’s the vulnerability to wind? Is it much worse or can high winds spill out without damaging structure or the plastic covering?
It would be ideal to roll the sides down when high winds are forecast. It would be better to roll both sides of the structure down to prevent wind from making its way into the structure. Securing the far left and far right of the roll-up side with Spring Wire (where it overlaps the end-hoop) is a good way to further secure the plastic in wind.
Hi everyone I'm having trouble with the pipe, is flexing and the end of the pipe (opposite side of the gearmotor), at the end of the pipe rolls the plastic faster so the rolling is uneven, what could be the problem that is causing this? the lenght is 54 meters(183.7 feet) and the height 4 meters (13.12 feet), thank you all
There are a number of things that can cause a roll-up side to have this type of issue, so it is really quite difficult to diagnosis. Here are six potential causes: 1. Your structures anchors follow the grade of the earth BUT your hip-rail / sidewall plastic connection is perfectly level. If this is the case and you install your roll-up sides a designated distance off your baseboard, your sides will roll-up even to the baseboards BUT not your hip-rail / connection point on the side. 2. The plastic on the far end has been attached differently than plastic at the near end. For example, if you don't create enough distance from the baseboard to the plastic connection to your roll-up bar, it will exacerbate as the side rolls up. If your roll up side is 4 meters it has A LOT of distance for even a one-inch to compound over the side wall height. For example, if you attached the plastic to your roll-bar one inch closer to your structure on the far end than the near end, the obviousness of that issue will increase the higher you roll the side up. 3. There could be more excess plastic on one end as compared to the other. If excess material is bunched up in the roll-bar that part of the roll-bar tends to roll-up faster than the rest of the bar. 4. There could be literal debris in between the roll-bar and the plastic. This would likely have happened at installation if at all. For example, when your plastic is first being attached to the roll-bar, if you accidentally get gravel on the plastic and don't notice this at the time it will impact how evenly it rolls up and down. 5. The plastic isn't securely fastened to the roll-bar. If you, for example, used snap clamps to attach the plastic to the roll-bar BUT you don't drive a screw or two through the snap clamps to permanently hold them in place, it is possible for those snap clamps to slide a little over time causing portions of the bar to roll up slower or faster. Also, 4 meters is a lot of distance for the roll-up side so there is a lot of additional weight on whatever securement method you are using. 6. One of your roll-bar units may be missing a connection where it joins to another unit. This has happened to me before, and I only discovered it after trying a bunch of other repairs / fixes... essentially, I just got in a hurry and forgot to attach the actual roll-bar to the other roll-bar unit. If this has been don, the roll-bar will often still move up and down, but it does so at a much different pace than the rest of the side. Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the question, Randall. Are you referring to the spring wire that is in the hip-rail (the horizontal member that runs the full length of the structure)? If so, that unit is approximately 4 ft. off the ground - give or take a few inches. We also sell greenhouses where this hip-rail is 6 ft. off the ground or in some instances 8 ft. off the ground. If you were referring to a different section of spring wire, let me know which one you are referring to. Thanks!
Going to be getting a poly tunnel sometime in the next 2 years. If I was in America I would definitely buy from your company. Can you guys invade or something like that? Annex this place?
Happy you have found the videos helpful. While we don't currently have international shipping set-up to be a streamlined process, hopefully we will within the next two years.
Hi there, we are located in Ohio. You can send us a message through our website contact form at www[dot]tunnelvisionhoops[dot]com and request pricing with shipping for the materials we sell or make. Thanks!
Because there are so many different operators and handles available for these structures, typically the instructions for those individual units are in the boxes with those units. For example, gear box attachment documents usually come in the box with the gear boxes themselves. That being said, we do have a video showing how to attach these to a roll-bar separately - you can see an example for how the gear box attaches to the roll-up bar at the 2 minute and 32 second mark - here is a link to the video I am referring to: ruclips.net/video/K9OtLmIMt8A/видео.html - this is being shown on a large plastic roll-up door but the order of operations for attaching the gear-box to the roll-bar are identical. Once the guide pipe has one of its ends assembled with the included chain on it, the unit can be placed over top of an open eye hook that has been bolted to the front face of the structures' end-hoop - the location of that open eye-bolt should be determined based on the length of the guide pipe. Usually, I hold the guide pipe so the bottom of it rests just above the ground in front of the metal baseboard - then I angle the top part of the guide pipe so it lines up with the end-bow - at this point, I make a mark on the front face of the bow - I then add an inch approximately to account for the links of chain at the top of the guide pipe. This is where I drill my hole to receive the open eye-hook. If I install the guide pipe and it makes too firm of contact with the earth, you can trim a little off its bottom so it hovers just above ground level. The main thing to remember when configuring the guide pipe with the gear box, is that the guide pipe should remain relatively parallel from the open eye-hook all the way down to where it extends through the guide pipe. Feel free to email info (at) tunnelvisionhoops.com, or call in to our customer support line, if you have any additional questions.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Cool, thanks for responding. Looks like my kit is missing the adapter that attaches the roll bar to the gearbox. I'll call in. Thanks guys. Your customer service has been great.
Where can I find the metal tubbing that you roll and clap the plastic to, the one with the swaged and un-swaged ends? this is the only thing I cannot find.
Thanks for watching our video! We usually put links in the description of the video that point to where you can purchase different hardware items. Here is a link to the operator package used in this video: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/gear-crank-operator-package-7-1/
Good question, Harvey. Those are corner wind panels intended to reduce how easily wind and cold air can squeeze past the edges of the roll-up sides. We have a video on that process here: ruclips.net/video/AfsxdyaoWjk/видео.html Thanks for watching!
Get a complete structure Order of Operations install guide by joining our community here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/get-greenhouse-order-operations
Dude, you are the clearest and most helpful person on RUclips. My tiny Thai wife and I (60 years old) just put on a 96 foot long hoop house cover using your 2 person technique. It was even kind of easy. Thanks for your help.
Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate it! Hope you two enjoy your hoop house for years to come.
Your video is clear, concise and spot on. I need this help and will be buying some items from you. Thanks again for being there!
We really appreciate the kind words, and support, and would be more than happy to help you with what you need! Thanks!
i am currently building my greenhouse and was looking for a way to roll up the sides, and this video is exactly what I wanted to learn. i will be calling you for prices for the gearbox and other parts. thank you. daniel blake
One of the best tutorials! Great video editing, great voice over, excellent execution. Will be sharing these videos with others! Thanks!
Thanks much, we appreciate the kind words!
This is the best on you tube.
Great presentation. Absolutly clear.
Thank you so much for the kind words, and for watching! Have a great season!
Overall a great video and a great company to give support to their products. I did have a hard time figuring out installing the pole that the gear box rides on. The instructions you gave - to keep it paraelle to the end hoop and the gear box connection beyond the hoop, were inconsistant because the bolt wasn't long enough to get the pole out that far. Anyway, maybe a suggestion to clarify that part for others. Thanks for the support, you do well with the videos.
Great video. Only thing I don't understand is how to seal up for the winter. We have to heat our greenhouse for citrus and can't have any cold air leaking in.
Thanks for the comment and the kind words. If you have to seal up for winter and have roll-up sides, you can add spring wire where the excess roll-up side plastic overlaps the end hoop at each end. For along the bottom you could add a shin-wall, and additional spring wire channel if you wanted, in order to create a more closed off system. Hope that helps and thanks for watching!
This was an amazing tutorial! Thank you!
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching and for the kind words!
Looks like a real nice GH ! I've emailed my specs. I bought a cheap version of a 30' wide. The peak was too flat. I awoke one morning after a huge rain storm to find my green house TOTALLED! Nothing but bent hoops and huge puddles of water in the plastic. :( Will rebuild with a concrete floor as the 20 year landscape fabric permitted weeds to grow right through it, from one end of the GH to the other.
Another of your great videos. Great stuff for us to know. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
thanks so much for posting. Very, very helpful!
Happy to hear you found it helpful! Thanks a ton for the kind words!
Good step by step video. I do have on question on the direction of the roll up. Wouldn't it be better to roll up the plastic in a counter clockwise direction so the water would run off the plastic easier??
Good question, and you could actually rotate it the opposite direction if you want to. I prefer rolling it up as shown in the video because I find that there is less friction put on the plastic at the point where the plastic contacts each hoop. When you roll the side up turning in the opposite direction, I find that the plastic begins to wear down prematurely at each bow.
This wouldn't always happen I suppose, and it would depend partially on how the anti-billow system is set up too (and a variety of other factors), but that is why I prefer the roll up method shown in the video.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thanks for the reply and your reasons why. I enjoyed and have learned from your videos.
Thanks!!!!! Great video - pro presentation and personable. When we do our greenhouse - will definitely use your video as our jguide.
Warm regards
Jennie
Thanks for the kind words, and for watching our videos! If you ever need anything you know where to find us!
Hi - great video! One thing that I'd like a closer look at is how the top of the gearbox guide pipe attaches to the end hoop of the greenhouse. Thanks!
Good question! I’m working on a video now where we discuss extender pipes and guide pipe placement. Extender pipes allow guide pipes to be installed so they don’t ‘kick’ out at the bottom when the operator is rolled up.
Not sure when exactly it will publish, but soon I’d think. Stay tuned, and thanks for watching!
Excellent instructional content.
Thanks so much for the kind words, and for watching.
Great video , very informative thank you for sharing with us !!!!
You are more than welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hi, I'm very impressed with the quality of your greenhouse and attention on details. Question, is it also possible to do double purpose, inflatable sidewall and then roll them up during summer?
Thanks for the kind words, and for watching the video. There are ways to inflate the roll-up sides. You would need to weld the plastic on the edges where it overlaps the end-bow. Most people also use a special baseboard that better holds the roll-bar down. If you planned on having them inflated and in the down position for a long period of time, you could probably get away with inflating the sides with a jumper hose that moves air from the top to the sides (and then disconnecting this jumper hose in advance of when you would want to be able to use the roll-up sides). If you plan on operating the sides relatively frequently though you would likely require separate inflation fans for the sides that could be turned on and off as required. We don't specialize in this aspect of inflation so I would recommend reaching out to a company like Advancing Alternatives to get a full run-down on the hardware and configurations required to do this.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Thank you for your advice and tips! 😁 But my ideas are to put 6 inches baseboard wood on top of the metal baseboard and put wire channel, so that in cold season I can air lock the roll-up plastic, and during summer I will remove the wire lock? (Hope this will work) I'm also planning to leave 3-5 inches gap in-between the two wire locks of the hip rim, so that the air will also flow down the side and I can avoid installing the jumper hose. I'm basically base in South of Portugal where the weather reach an average of 17-23 degree celsius and 10 in the very cold winter day. But so far, checking all of greenhouse in RUclips your greenhouse construction got my attention, very neat and professional and the way you answer back all questions is very professional too.
Thank you so much for the very helpful tutorial.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
Where can I find the gearbox operators. The video is awesome!
Thanks for the kind words. You can find the gearboxes used in the video here: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/gear-crank-operator-package-7-1/
If you don't see them at the link you can send a contact form in at the Tunnel Vision Hoops LLC website and someone will get you info and pricing.
Thanks for watching!
Great video I'm about to install plastic in the A.M. trying to do something similar with a PVC hoop house, could you go just a little more on the anti billowing installation. Do you just go every other one inside and outside? Thanks
I agree, and am actually editing another video on anti-billow currently. In the meantime, here is more info on what I do:
I usually start the anti-billow rope at the hip rail on the end of the structure with my handle or operator (just a couple inches in from the end-hoop). I then bring the rope straight down to the baseboard, and then from their go up to the hip-rail at an angle, and back down to the baseboard at an angle so that there is a connection to anti-billow hardware every hoop. I have seen other builders make their anti-billow connections so they are separated every 8 or 12 feet though. I suppose it is also a bit of personal preference, but I like having a connection at every hoop (whether at the hip rail or at the baseboard). Hope that helps!
First, excellent video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. We followed your video and got the necessary supplies, it works exactly as you've described. The only problem we're running into is the plastic is so heavy in the center it sags the piping in the center. We used the snap clamps as described. We're thinking it's because we're using a heavier plastic. Any suggestions to fix this issue we're having? Thank you!
Thanks for watching, and good question. In my experience the weight of the plastic doesn't have any impact at all on how the roll-up side bar rests through the full length of the structure. Not to say it isn't possible in your situation, just that I have always found that type of sag to be caused by other issues.
Here are the most common issues that I have seen cause this:
1. The baseboard of your structure follows the earth through the length of your structure and IT is lower in the middle, which means when you measure off of your baseboard your roll-up bar "sags" a little because it mirrors your baseboard.
2. The greenhouse plastic was fastened to the structure in a way where the far left and far right of the structures sides weren't pulled as tightly as the center of the sides, which means there will more excess poly in the center of the structure. This means as the weight of the roll bar rests on the structure it "stretches" the excess plastic out and their appears to be a sag in the center.
3. If the plastic hasn't been installed square to the structure you may find that there are symmetrical wrinkles that meet in the middle of the roll-up side. As you roll the side up these wrinkles get rolled over and create a larger diameter to the rolling bar and this compounds further as the side continues to roll-up - which creates a "sag" appearance in the roll-up where the wrinkles are most obvious.
4. Too few snap clamps were used and they moved a little as you rolled the bar up and down. This would happen also if you never drove a screw through them into the roll-bar. This is unlikely to be the issue, but I thought I would mention it here just in case.
There are relative solutions for all of the above, but it might be best to send us an email at info(at)tunnelvisionhoops(dot).com along with some pictures so we can help you problem solve / trouble shoot.
Thanks again for watching!
What are the temperatures different from outside to inside the greenhouse
Thank you
It really depends on a lot of variables, most importantly how much direct sunlight hits the structure throughout a day. This is an important variable because the structures' intent is to hold that heat throughout the night (as well as possible) until sun can begin to warm the structure the next morning again. For this reason, the temperature difference from inside to the outside can also depend on how well the structure is sealed to hold the heat that was gained during the day, through the duration of the evening. For this reason the temperature difference from the outside of the structure to the inside of the structure can really vary from just 4 degrees to 50 degrees. It all depends on the structure, the environment, maintenance practices, and more.
While the heat in the structure is an important factor, the removal of wind pressure on plants can be equally beneficial.
Hello. Wonderful video and very well explanined. Thanks. What is the dimension of that poly house?
Can you also make a video on how to bend and join galvanized pipes and use clamps, joints and connectors? Actually i am looking and getting ready to erect a small (50x20m) test poly tunnel for tomatoes growing.
Thanks for the kind words. We won't likely have a video on our bending process, although we may have some videos soon showing how to connect tubing using various clamps. As for the dimensions of the structure in the video, it is 24 ft. wide x 92 ft. long.
@@tunnelvisionhoopsThanks dear. Will be waiting for such videos. Good luck and many successes.
Thank you! Many wishes of success for you as well!
could this ventilation work fine for my purposes? I'm considering to grow tomatoes inside so I'm afraid about the acumulation of water at the peak of the greenhouse, I've read that if that water drop over the plant can be dangerious for them. Thanks again!
It will help for sure, but there are usually a number of variables that impact how much ventilation is needed. These variables include such things as the amount of water in the ground of your structure, how hot it is outside your structure, how much sun is shining, the humidity that exists outside your structure, etc. The list goes on as far as the potential variables that can impact how much water accumulates on the inside plastic of your structure... that said, having sides as shown in this video is a BIG help for allowing some of that air exchange to occur, and while unknown variables might still create dripping, having sides that roll-up and down will help reduce that dripping and improve the health of your tomatoes. The narrower your structure is the more effective roll-up sides are to ventilating your structure. For example, if your structure is 40 ft. wide x 96 ft. long you may want to consider additional end-wall ventilation that includes exhaust fans, as well as interior air movement fans...but if your structure is 16 ft. x 40 ft. or something similar, for example, roll-up sides will do A LOT for air movement, water evaporation, and the health of your plants.
Do you wait to install wiggle wire in the lower wire channel of the hip board until after finishing the roll bar?
I tend to, but it wouldn't change anything if you had decided to secure both runs of channel with spring wire before tackling your roll-up sides.
Personally, I just like to get the roll-up tube on as soon as possible to prevent the excess side plastic from flapping around in the wind.
So we have a roll up side for our tunnel, and our grading is about 2%, or 2 feet for 96’ length. My question, our baseboards installed going with the grade would result it it being uneven the roll up sides. Also, we would use 4 or 5 baseboards for one side, and only one for another side. Any ideas? Should we go with the grade, or make the baseboards entirely level and have baseboards be almost 2 feet of spacing on one end? Thanks for your time! Have a great weekend!
This will really be determined by how you anchored. Did you install your anchors so that they “follow the grade” lengthwise, OR are all the ground posts perfectly level (which would mean the ground post anchors at one end would be out of the ground about 2’ more)?
If your anchors have followed the grade of the earth, you could install your baseboards so they run along the ground also following the grade of the earth, and AS LONG AS YOUR HIPRAIL is a consistent distance up from your baseboard through its full length, the roll up side should still roll up without any issues / without getting “wonky”.
Not sure if what I am outlining above makes sense, but whenever I can install a baseboard so I can avoid a big gap beneath it at one end, I do, but this would really require you to think about it at the time of anchoring.
Hope that makes sense, and thanks for watching.
@@tunnelvisionhoops my greenhouses are also built on a slope and i think it would be easier with my grading issues, if my curtains could roll down to open and roll up to close, is that possible with this system?
Is the roll up pipe on the none cranking side just suspended on it's own or does it have something attached to it and it rides up a similar cranking pole?
The roll-up pipe on the end opposite the operators does NOT have a guide pipe. It is suspended by the plastic itself.
The snap clamps (and the screws driven through them) ensure that it rolls evenly despite this. Believe it or not, the plastic does a good job holding the tube if the tubing has been attached to the plastic consistently through the full length of the house.
@@tunnelvisionhoops thank you very much
Do you have a ballpark estimate for a 65' x 15' greenhouse like this with roll up sides? And maybe beginner intstallment time estimate?
We could do a 14.5 ft. wide x 64 ft. long (they are on 4 ft. spacing between bows), or we could do a 17 ft. wide x 64 ft. long. Shoot us a message via our contact form on our website (tunnelvisionhoops.com) and we can send you detailed pricing and info on a few different structure configurations in these sizes. Basically, you can make them as simple or as decked-out as you wish, so pricing can vary from structure to structure. Feel free to shoot us a message and we can send you some quotes. Thanks!
Where u get that nice metal end wall framing?
Is there s limit on how high you can roll up a side?
Whamy do hip rails have 2 wire channels? Is that not just double work? Would one single channel not do the trick as most take at least 2 wires n 2 layers or film?
When people purchase one of our high tunnels / greenhouses we provide them with square steel tube end-wall kits. We pre-cut the steel members as much as possible, and provide detailed drawings, so the end-walls can be assembled as easily as possible.
great video. just what I needed.
Thanks,
Curtis
Curtis, thanks for all of your support, and for the kind words on our video. We hope all is well with you and your family!
Can i use 3/4 EMT pipes ?
Technically you can although most of the common hardware used for attaching the plastic cover to your roll-up side bar AND for attaching operators to the end of that roll-bar (whether 7:1 gear boxes or handles) are made to configure with 1.315" OD standard fence type tubing - which is referred to as 1 3/8" OD and is often sold at hardware stores and fence supply companies.
Best of luck with whichever route you decide to take your roll-up side installation. Thanks for watching!
Do you need to screw a self-drilling screw into the EZ-Snap rope hooks, when they are clipped into the wiggle-wire lock channel?? Your Vidio does not show a screw into it, but I guess the downward or upward force on the clip, would keep it "locked" into the channel ?
Thanks for the comment, and I agree we could have shown more detail on the anti-billow rope aspect of the roll-up sides, which is why I am in the process of editing a video for those right now. To answer your question though, you would not need to add a screw due to the shape of the EZ Snap Hook. The downward pressure on the hardware and the shape of the EZ Snap Hook will hold it in place.
With the above being said, if you are in a high wind zone and wanted a little more insurance you could drill a 1/4" hole through the hip rail at each EZ Snap Hook and pop a bolt through the EZ Snap Hook and the Hip Rail, and put a nut or lock nut on that bolt from the inside. This might be a little overkill, but this is an option for you if you wanted to take it to the next level.
this channel is awesome
Thanks for the kind words, and thanks for watching!
Just watched a video with automatic rollups utilizing a thermostat and motor. Could even dedicate a solar panel, battery and inverter to it.
thanks alot! very informative
Great! We plan on continuing to post videos so stay tuned!
Excellent videos
Thanks much! We currently have five new ones being edited so hopefully we will have some new ones up for you soon!
Do you put anything on the other end?
No, if the tubing has been attached to the plastic parallel to the hip rail, and a gear box is being used at one end, the side should roll up parallel to the hip rail. It will be important to drive a screw or two through the snap clamps and into the bow to ensure they don’t slide a bit over time though.
Where can we purchase the gear box and attachments? Thanks
You can find them here (www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/gear-crank-operator-package-7-1/), which is at the Tunnel Vision Hoops Website under "Sidewall Components".
Thanks for watching!
Do you have to use the guide rail or can you use something else
Victor, you do not need to use a guide pipe if you are just using Handles as your roll-up side operator, BUT, if you plan to use a gear box operator you will need to use a guide post for those. Thanks for watching!
how do you make these roll up sides inflated for winter
You would need to install two layers of plastic that stretch all the way to the baseboards, and then you would follow the steps outlined in the video, but you would just do so pretending both layers of plastic are a single layer.
Once the roll-up bar is attached to both layers of plastic you would need to seal the plastic at each side where it overlaps the end hoops; this can be done using Spring Wire. You could also purchase a plastic sealer and seal the sides of the plastic before securing the poly to the roll-up bar.
If you are concerned that the pressure from the inflation fan is too much for the roll-up bar connections, you can also run spring wire channel the full length of the tunnel near the point at which the roll-up bar rests on the baseboard. Wiring the roll-up plastic the full length will ensure that the inflation stop at the Spring Wire, which will limit the pressure on the roll-up bar attachment. This is likely the most ideal for scenarios where the roll-up bar is secured as it is in this video (using Snap Clamps).
If you secure your roll-up sides to the roll-up bar with a different method, where spring wire can hold the plastic directly to the roll-up bar, you would likely be able to get away with inflating the roll-up side without installing a full run of single aluminum channel near the baseboard.
Best of luck with your project!
With both sides rolled up, what’s the vulnerability to wind? Is it much worse or can high winds spill out without damaging structure or the plastic covering?
It would be ideal to roll the sides down when high winds are forecast. It would be better to roll both sides of the structure down to prevent wind from making its way into the structure. Securing the far left and far right of the roll-up side with Spring Wire (where it overlaps the end-hoop) is a good way to further secure the plastic in wind.
Hi everyone
I'm having trouble with the pipe, is flexing and the end of the pipe (opposite side of the gearmotor), at the end of the pipe rolls the plastic faster so the rolling is uneven, what could be the problem that is causing this? the lenght is 54 meters(183.7 feet) and the height 4 meters (13.12 feet), thank you all
There are a number of things that can cause a roll-up side to have this type of issue, so it is really quite difficult to diagnosis. Here are six potential causes:
1. Your structures anchors follow the grade of the earth BUT your hip-rail / sidewall plastic connection is perfectly level. If this is the case and you install your roll-up sides a designated distance off your baseboard, your sides will roll-up even to the baseboards BUT not your hip-rail / connection point on the side.
2. The plastic on the far end has been attached differently than plastic at the near end. For example, if you don't create enough distance from the baseboard to the plastic connection to your roll-up bar, it will exacerbate as the side rolls up. If your roll up side is 4 meters it has A LOT of distance for even a one-inch to compound over the side wall height. For example, if you attached the plastic to your roll-bar one inch closer to your structure on the far end than the near end, the obviousness of that issue will increase the higher you roll the side up.
3. There could be more excess plastic on one end as compared to the other. If excess material is bunched up in the roll-bar that part of the roll-bar tends to roll-up faster than the rest of the bar.
4. There could be literal debris in between the roll-bar and the plastic. This would likely have happened at installation if at all. For example, when your plastic is first being attached to the roll-bar, if you accidentally get gravel on the plastic and don't notice this at the time it will impact how evenly it rolls up and down.
5. The plastic isn't securely fastened to the roll-bar. If you, for example, used snap clamps to attach the plastic to the roll-bar BUT you don't drive a screw or two through the snap clamps to permanently hold them in place, it is possible for those snap clamps to slide a little over time causing portions of the bar to roll up slower or faster. Also, 4 meters is a lot of distance for the roll-up side so there is a lot of additional weight on whatever securement method you are using.
6. One of your roll-bar units may be missing a connection where it joins to another unit. This has happened to me before, and I only discovered it after trying a bunch of other repairs / fixes... essentially, I just got in a hurry and forgot to attach the actual roll-bar to the other roll-bar unit. If this has been don, the roll-bar will often still move up and down, but it does so at a much different pace than the rest of the side.
Best of luck, and thanks for watching!
Outstanding Thank you!
You’re welcome, James! Thanks for the kind words!
How far is the wiggle wire from the ground?
Thanks for the question, Randall. Are you referring to the spring wire that is in the hip-rail (the horizontal member that runs the full length of the structure)? If so, that unit is approximately 4 ft. off the ground - give or take a few inches.
We also sell greenhouses where this hip-rail is 6 ft. off the ground or in some instances 8 ft. off the ground.
If you were referring to a different section of spring wire, let me know which one you are referring to.
Thanks!
@@tunnelvisionhoops basically how far it rolls up max.
Ah, gotchya. The side in this video rolls up 4 ft., but there are versions of this structure where the sides can roll up 6 ft.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Could i make system that could roll 8-10ft?
Going to be getting a poly tunnel sometime in the next 2 years. If I was in America I would definitely buy from your company. Can you guys invade or something like that? Annex this place?
Happy you have found the videos helpful. While we don't currently have international shipping set-up to be a streamlined process, hopefully we will within the next two years.
Where are you buy the roll side tub.
Hi there, we are located in Ohio. You can send us a message through our website contact form at www[dot]tunnelvisionhoops[dot]com and request pricing with shipping for the materials we sell or make. Thanks!
@@tunnelvisionhoops
Hi
You never showed how to attach the guide pipe to the high tunnel. Or how to attach the gearbox to the roll-up bar.
Because there are so many different operators and handles available for these structures, typically the instructions for those individual units are in the boxes with those units. For example, gear box attachment documents usually come in the box with the gear boxes themselves. That being said, we do have a video showing how to attach these to a roll-bar separately - you can see an example for how the gear box attaches to the roll-up bar at the 2 minute and 32 second mark - here is a link to the video I am referring to: ruclips.net/video/K9OtLmIMt8A/видео.html - this is being shown on a large plastic roll-up door but the order of operations for attaching the gear-box to the roll-bar are identical.
Once the guide pipe has one of its ends assembled with the included chain on it, the unit can be placed over top of an open eye hook that has been bolted to the front face of the structures' end-hoop - the location of that open eye-bolt should be determined based on the length of the guide pipe. Usually, I hold the guide pipe so the bottom of it rests just above the ground in front of the metal baseboard - then I angle the top part of the guide pipe so it lines up with the end-bow - at this point, I make a mark on the front face of the bow - I then add an inch approximately to account for the links of chain at the top of the guide pipe. This is where I drill my hole to receive the open eye-hook. If I install the guide pipe and it makes too firm of contact with the earth, you can trim a little off its bottom so it hovers just above ground level.
The main thing to remember when configuring the guide pipe with the gear box, is that the guide pipe should remain relatively parallel from the open eye-hook all the way down to where it extends through the guide pipe.
Feel free to email info (at) tunnelvisionhoops.com, or call in to our customer support line, if you have any additional questions.
@@tunnelvisionhoops Cool, thanks for responding. Looks like my kit is missing the adapter that attaches the roll bar to the gearbox. I'll call in. Thanks guys. Your customer service has been great.
Thanks, we overnighted those and they should arrive tomorrow! Feel free to call in if you need anything else. Thanks!
@@tunnelvisionhoops literally the best customer service I've ever received. Thanks guys.
Where can I find the metal tubbing that you roll and clap the plastic to, the one with the swaged and un-swaged ends? this is the only thing I cannot find.
We sell it, but shipping it can be costly. Most big box hardware stores, like Home Depot, carry it in their chain link fence section.
@@tunnelvisionhoops
Where can we buy this roller?
Thanks for watching our video! We usually put links in the description of the video that point to where you can purchase different hardware items. Here is a link to the operator package used in this video: www.tunnelvisionhoops.com/gear-crank-operator-package-7-1/
is the roller bar attached to anything on the opposite end from the crank??
No, the one end has the gear box, and the other end is "free floating"
@@tunnelvisionhoops Any reason why you wouldn't secure the other end to the ground?
Awesome!
Thanks!
Why is there additional plastic at the end of each side panel?
Good question, Harvey. Those are corner wind panels intended to reduce how easily wind and cold air can squeeze past the edges of the roll-up sides. We have a video on that process here: ruclips.net/video/AfsxdyaoWjk/видео.html Thanks for watching!
I made it through each of your videos and learned a lot about how to and the why behind it part. Great job! Very clear and concise. Thank you.
Spent my day doing this instead of spending time with my wife, three months later she divorced me
😮
Some would think that a win,win situation.
🙏🙏👍👍
❤
I'm embarrassed for my saggy politunel. I will improve the text time.
If you get the plastic on without it blowing away, you did a good job! Practice always makes perfect though!