Hey John, I,m from Holland and I am a mechanic of machinery. I always repair those lines by cutting them and fit in a new piece. For example when the line is 20 mm I use GV20L fitting with a new piece of hardline 20 mm. In high pressure configurations we use the same type it is only Called S for example 20S.
John, of all the many videos of yours that I have watched, it occurred to me how very good of an editor you are. Each time I think I’m going to ‘fast-forward ‘, some portion……..you do it for me! Kudos!
I don't have a large marge, tractor, bucket loader, or any other big equipment, but you have helped me tremendously trouleshooting my automotive issues. Your trial by fire methods give me ideas how to fix things.
Great tip for those broken bolts. Get a piece om scrap flatbar with a hole at the end. Put the bolt trough the hole and weld it. Then you can hammer the bar back and forth til it comes loose. 👌
I use cosmoline on steel lines like you have. It holds up better than paint. It dries a sticky waxy coating that doesn’t dry up. It is also good for salty environment. A company that I use to work for coated large steam turbines parts, crated them and shipped them by freighter over seas only to weight months before assembly. Never had any rust problem. Cosmo line is great to prevent corrosion
Better you than me working on Marge. I took more than my share of hydraulic oil showers over the years, and dealt with a lot of rusty iron too. I don't miss those days at all.
OH my God sir, you have the patience of a saint. I would have driven Marge out to a field, leaks and all, and blown it up after that second Dremel disk flew off. 😂
In the old days,dynamite was available in some hardware stores. Ditching dynamite is not optimal for large equipment explosive disassembly ,but add enough and invite the neighbors. At a distance. For a party. Nowadays,one must be more creative. Unquestionably, this man has far more patience than I ever possessed. But you know,if he persists,he just might get worthwhile use and life out of this here particular very tired iron. He is no longer on Plan B,perhaps on Plan Q. At least for him,the cattle are nice and quiet.
Seems like the covers could be sealed from dirt with some type of rubber or plastic edging. Have to admire how positive and matter of fact you are when problems arise!
Rust-Oleum makes a rattle can rust converter (Rust-Oleum 248658). I live in Michigan, where rust is a fact of life. I've used it on several projects, and it's fantastic.
Hi John…. You have the patience of a saint….every time you look at L.M. she leaks..but you never curse at her…. She knows you love her ❤ Ian&Jen 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
That was extremely satisfying! Watching you fix up the old girl with such care and attention to detail. I'm glad the 2nd side sprung the leak now while you already had everything apart instead of in another week or so. I WAS amazed that much dirt could get in there behind that cover......does it come in from the back? Edit: well now, you just showed how the dirt got there....at least in the smaller compartment, but how did it pack around the fina and drive behind that big cover?
Large Marge Lives. Congratulation on all your hard work and perseverance. I very much enjoy your videos and appreciate all the hard work you put into them. Thank you.
John, always tighten a bolt before you try to loosen it. Only need to tighten enough to see movement. Then loosen. Edit to add: DIN is the easiest to add a fitting to hard line. The tube does not require any flaring. Slide the nut and ferrule over the tube, slide the tube into the fitting, then torque the nut to spec.
Nice that you're always the one for work arounds. Thoughts on the dirt problem, Maybe it was said before this, weld of bolt in a a 1/4 x 4" ish flat plate above the cover plate like a flashing on a roof. Dig On, Large Marge !!!!
If you've never tried them, the Dremel EZ-Lock cutoff wheels are worth every penny. The quick attach lets them float a bit, and the wheels are actual fiber reinforced material with a metal hub.
I have been struggling mentally today but your video made me feel better and it was great to laugh with you. It was a great job you did on the hydraulic lines. You always try to make the repairs as good as possible 👍
Great video as always. Could you weld a little plate just above where you stuffed that foam? Nothing big, just enough to deflect anything falling from the tracks.
You have tremendous patience. By now I think I would have driven L.M into the next burn pile you create. So frustrating to watch you struggle with leak after leak, broken bolts and rust, rust, rust. Great job though, I give you a lot of credit. Great video, thanks. Happy Thanksgiving.
Hey bud next time you have to weld nuts onto bolts to get them out weld a washer before the nut it allows you to get a better weld onto the broken bolt
I don’t know what you did in a past life sir but you are working off some serious Karma with Large Marge. You should be just about even with Karma once Large Marge is completed. Thanks for these videos. Cheers from 🇨🇦
Pro tip for stuck bolts and such you can get cans of compressed air (like for blowing dust off your keyboard) and spray the bolts with the can upside-down, it will super freeze the bolt and sometimes make it shrink enough to break free.
Needle scalers are awesome (you know - for some things!). Used one to take the rust spots out of a buddies truck bed before spraying a 2 part bed liner in.
Have you looked for a tracking switch? To flick between high and low speed. I operate an old sandvik drill rig which has 3 functions on one switch; drill, tortoise, or rabbit.loving the show across the pond in Cornwall.😁
Well, the engine seems happy, no big smoke- I´d say You´ve given this old hunk a new, fair chance at being reliable and to do its job. Very good. The finishing touches would be cabin heat and worklights- wouldn´t they? Kind Regards
Great video Jon. LARGE MARGE is really becoming one of my favorite video series. I hope you will consider a hydraulic thumb before you paint her and call it completed. See you next week.
I’ve been waiting 6months for you to work on excavator 2-speed repair. Mine has not worked since I got it. I troubleshooted electrical only so I need some inspiration to get into the plumbing. 😅
Nice job John. You certainly don’t half ass anything. Large Marge is going to be good and reliable after all the work you’ve done to her. I appreciate the video’s.
I found that the fiber cutting wheels work better with the Dremel over the stone cutting wheels like you used .I have used the fiber ones for years now.
I have used swagelok fittings for new and repair of hydraulic lines and gas lines. Find a spot on the tubing that is clean, put the fitting on and swage it with two wrench’s. I have used them on high pressure hydrogen lines, 10000 psi with no issues. I have repaired brake and hydraulic lines with no issues.
I've been waiting a long time to see that big excavator push over a sizeable tree ! and she didn't even flinch ! .... yes that thumb has to change.... like a hydrolic one ! fixed place like that it only has limited usage ! you need a hydraulic ram like the one you stole for the log splitter ! you should be able to find a used one locally ! then just run the lines from the big valve block to the cab and a 2 way valve and then to the ram ! ....that'll be alot of hose to get to that thing way out on the boom but it would really be worth it ! thanks Jon..... well done !!!
Look at investing into some metric grip edge stud extractors. They are pricey. But lifetime warranty. Work like a charm and really do bite down! Save you some hardware as well!
Hey John. I swear by Rust Check for anything that might concern me on my cars and equipment. Long Canadian winters and a crap ton of salt on the roads. RC stops rust dead in it's tracks. I would invest in a case of it and hit the whole underside of Marge.
Never heard of anyone having any luck with POS 15. My mason spent 12 k to have his dump frame done and it peeled off in 3 years. I do all my equipment with Ospho same shit as the Permatex you used then Rust oleum Rusty Metal Primer then top coat. I did an old hay rake 25 years ago and it's still intact.🍻
I used POS 15 an the engine bay of my old truck and it looked like crap and didn't hold up that well. The prep work was great since I was a building painter and the rust was minor surface rust. The next time, I sprayed 2 stage auto paint and it turned out far better. Rustoleum is better, even though it isn't anything great compared to the oil based paints I used to buy 20 years or so ago. Actually, I used rustoleum on the frame and door for my toyhauler trailer and it has held up well and has only lost sheen from the sun. It would be easy to lightly sand and top coat again, plus it is less expensive than that POS 15......perfect name for it.
You should bolt those panels together. May not prevent dirt from getting through, but could prevent debris from peeling them apart, which is how it's avoided crushing those lines.
John If I'm not being too nosy, what audio books to like? Saw a promotion for a documentary on seals and thought of you. I must say you got my goat on this particular video.
Jon, trouble always comes in two's. congrats on finally getting the lines tooken care of. hopefully the soft line will be good until one of the other lines goes kuput.. have a case of beer on me..
In the future cut the bad section of the hard line out and use some swagelok compression fittings to connect a new piece in. I do tons of mainly thick wall stainless and titanium hard lines in the chemical industry and it really isn't that bad to do runs like this when you take your time and have a good bender.
I recently started welding a heavy washer on first, and then a nut. I seems to give a better surface to weld the nut to, and maybe more heat over a extended amount of time?? Anyway, I have yet to need to re-weld a snapped nut. And I use some paraffin as my lubricant, smokes like hell, but seems to creep into the threads pretty deep. Some RTV before replacing the cover plates might keep the dust out. skip a space at the bottom to act as a weep??
If you find rust in places where looks dont matter the best solution is actually really easy to do. Just use a needle gun or a regular air hammer to knock of any loose rust and then apply some Owatrol Oil. Its a rust stopper, not a rust converter, so it simply blocks it from getting any more oxygen and water, which is actually more effective, because rust converters only work very superficial, while owatrol oil soaks deeply into the rust. If you like to, you can still paint it afterwards, owatrol actually hardens quite quickly
When you weld on the nuts to remove the threaded part can you use a larger sized nut so the weld goes on the sides between the two then on top so the connection is stronger? Have you thought about getting an articulating thumb for Marge? I understand that they are rather expensive but maybe a used one that needs some work could be worth it.
I've never tried a much larger nut, but if you have enough stud sticking out it seems like a good idea. I have thought about a hydraulic thumb, and maybe one day I'll look into it, but it's a lot of work and expense. I would have to tap into the hydraulic system and rig up a new control valve and a way to control it in the cab, run new lines the length of the boom, and then of course install the thumb cylinder. I think a basic thumb will probably work for me if I get one of the correct size, at least for awhile.
Great job! Large Marge is still finding ways to challenge you! I was wondering if the replacement adjustment screw you made has to be hardened, at least the end where it applies the pressure? Most set screws have a hardness greater than the material they screw into. Also an idea for your cover plate over your hydraulic lines, why not make an angled flashing plate that you can bolt onto the cover plate? It could be made out of 1/8 thick steel stock, as it would not need to be as heavy as the main cover. With slotted holes to adjust the gap between the cover plate and the frame panel. I love your videos, for me, you have the best channel on RUclips! Thank you
At 35:22, wouldn't a right-angle connector have been better? I'd be concerned that the hose might vibrate against the cover. Oh OK, later it looks like it clears! At 56:00, that was a dumb design! Great job, John! 👍 Always look forward to the next one!
Would something like a sacrificial anode help to prevent those solid lines from corroding in the future? Love watching you repair these machines, so thanks for all the amazing content.
At least in here, regular hydraulic shops sell hard line as well, and bend them to order if you don't want to do it yourself. Not too expensive either. Small diameter tube isn't that difficult to bend either.
I rebuild eletric motor from pumps, for irrigation. And always put grease on every bolt, it help when need to open. Here most pumps are used for fertilization for Coffee plantations. Urea and postassium cloride make castiron rot fast
18:45 I was thinking - "Is that a Nylock? Is he gonna weld a nylon nut to the broken stud?" and then it burned from the weld heat - I'm pretty sure that was a nylon locking nut and the nylon part melted and burned away, contaminating your weld :D It's not a surprise it didn't weld very well. The next one you welded on worked just fine. At 20:13 I couldn't tell if it was a toplock or a nylock nut. But since it came out it ended up working! A trick that MIGHT help you. After heating the metal the bolt is threaded into - turn a can of compressed air upside down and spray the bolt itself. This causes it to shrink rapidly from the freezing cold blast, hopefully pulling the threads of the bolt away from the threads in the bulkhead where it is welded. It's basically a thermal cycle turbocharger :D I love watching the improvising in real time.
When bolts are broken flush I will build weld up in the bolt first, hammer on the weld then weld on a nut. Also I will use an extension on a johnson bar so I can hold on the pivot point with one hand so I only put a torsional load on the bolt, making it less likely to break off.
I bet it felt really good to drive Large Marge around and do a little work with her. Are we gonna see a thumb lengthening in the future? 😀 Loved the the behind the scenes by the family members. 😅🤣😂😆😁😆
![Duracell Changes Color. [Ep. 151]](/img/1.gif)
This is one of the few channels where both the production and the videos themselves just keep getting better. Good job!
I can't tell you how disappointed I was that you didn't say "Can't be stuck if it's liquid!” when torching that bolt at the beginning 😂
my thoughts exactly!
Don't worry. I said it a couple times for you!
I know your hour long videos take a lot of work on your part but I sure do like them. I could watch your content all day long. Thank you so much.
Hey John, I,m from Holland and I am a mechanic of machinery. I always repair those lines by cutting them and fit in a new piece. For example when the line is 20 mm I use GV20L fitting with a new piece of hardline 20 mm.
In high pressure configurations we use the same type it is only Called S for example 20S.
John, of all the many videos of yours that I have watched, it occurred to me how very good of an editor you are. Each time I think I’m going to ‘fast-forward ‘, some portion……..you do it for me! Kudos!
I don't have a large marge, tractor, bucket loader, or any other big equipment, but you have helped me tremendously trouleshooting my automotive issues. Your trial by fire methods give me ideas how to fix things.
Each video is better than the last. You’re unstoppable!
Awesome job. Man, as those bolts were breaking off I thought you’re screwed. Your middle name is perseverance.
Great tip for those broken bolts. Get a piece om scrap flatbar with a hole at the end. Put the bolt trough the hole and weld it. Then you can hammer the bar back and forth til it comes loose. 👌
Brother John, my hat is off to you, once again! You are not afraid to tackle any job! Incredible. Great Repair!!!👍👍
I use cosmoline on steel lines like you have. It holds up better than paint. It dries a sticky waxy coating that doesn’t dry up. It is also good for salty environment. A company that I use to work for coated large steam turbines parts, crated them and shipped them by freighter over seas only to weight months before assembly. Never had any rust problem. Cosmo line is great to prevent corrosion
With that beautiful shop you have in all of your knowledge and ability, I'm surprised I didn't see you break out the media blaster and the HVLP
Better you than me working on Marge. I took more than my share of hydraulic oil showers over the years, and dealt with a lot of rusty iron too. I don't miss those days at all.
Mrs Farmcraft sneaks out at night and breaks stuff to ensure steady content.
@cv990a4
Yeah, wives can be that way.
And we all love her for it
OH my God sir, you have the patience of a saint. I would have driven Marge out to a field, leaks and all, and blown it up after that second Dremel disk flew off. 😂
I'm with you this thing have been one cluster after ,I hope John gets High viewership from these videos
In the old days,dynamite was available in some hardware stores. Ditching dynamite is not optimal for large equipment explosive disassembly ,but add enough and invite the neighbors. At a distance. For a party. Nowadays,one must be more creative.
Unquestionably, this man has far more patience than I ever possessed. But you know,if he persists,he just might get worthwhile use and life out of this here particular very tired iron. He is no longer on Plan B,perhaps on Plan Q. At least for him,the cattle are nice and quiet.
I think his patience is normal human male level. I think his tenacity is off the charts high. Nice work, John.
Just about to sit down for lunch and Jon drops a video. Life is good!
Seems like the covers could be sealed from dirt with some type of rubber or plastic edging. Have to admire how positive and matter of fact you are when problems arise!
Rust-Oleum makes a rattle can rust converter (Rust-Oleum 248658). I live in Michigan, where rust is a fact of life. I've used it on several projects, and it's fantastic.
At 39:54, my heart sank!! But with that never give up attitude, you overcame! Man over machine 💪🏻
I had almost exactly the opposite reaction, I burst out laughing! 🤣 Large Marge strikes again!
I think learning how to bend hard lines would make a good episode!
Hi John…. You have the patience of a saint….every time you look at L.M. she leaks..but you never curse at her…. She knows you love her ❤
Ian&Jen 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
That was extremely satisfying! Watching you fix up the old girl with such care and attention to detail. I'm glad the 2nd side sprung the leak now while you already had everything apart instead of in another week or so.
I WAS amazed that much dirt could get in there behind that cover......does it come in from the back?
Edit: well now, you just showed how the dirt got there....at least in the smaller compartment, but how did it pack around the fina and drive behind that big cover?
Thanks for getting the respirator out. Your jogs around the farm will love you.
Large Marge Lives. Congratulation on all your hard work and perseverance. I very much enjoy your videos and appreciate all the hard work you put into them. Thank you.
John, always tighten a bolt before you try to loosen it. Only need to tighten enough to see movement. Then loosen.
Edit to add: DIN is the easiest to add a fitting to hard line. The tube does not require any flaring. Slide the nut and ferrule over the tube, slide the tube into the fitting, then torque the nut to spec.
Nice that you're always the one for work arounds. Thoughts on the dirt problem, Maybe it was said before this, weld of bolt in a a 1/4 x 4" ish flat plate above the cover plate like a flashing on a roof. Dig On, Large Marge !!!!
Well done. And yes, every job needs a good supervisor. And it seems she was there!
If you've never tried them, the Dremel EZ-Lock cutoff wheels are worth every penny. The quick attach lets them float a bit, and the wheels are actual fiber reinforced material with a metal hub.
Great job Jon.
I think it started leaking because you fixed all the other stuff that increased the pressure, exposing a weak spot that couldn't hold up to it.
My whole body is starting to ache just watching Jon working so hard.
Marge put this tree like it was nothing. Those previous ones would be so much less work if you had her then.
Awesome one :)
I have been struggling mentally today but your video made me feel better and it was great to laugh with you. It was a great job you did on the hydraulic lines. You always try to make the repairs as good as possible 👍
Thanks to Large Marge I expect to see a lot of really interesting videos in the future keep them coming
Great video as always. Could you weld a little plate just above where you stuffed that foam? Nothing big, just enough to deflect anything falling from the tracks.
You have tremendous patience. By now I think I would have driven L.M into the next burn pile you create. So frustrating to watch you struggle with leak after leak, broken bolts and rust, rust, rust. Great job though, I give you a lot of credit. Great video, thanks. Happy Thanksgiving.
Hey bud next time you have to weld nuts onto bolts to get them out weld a washer before the nut it allows you to get a better weld onto the broken bolt
I don’t know what you did in a past life sir but you are working off some serious Karma with Large Marge. You should be just about even with Karma once Large Marge is completed. Thanks for these videos. Cheers from 🇨🇦
Pro tip for stuck bolts and such you can get cans of compressed air (like for blowing dust off your keyboard) and spray the bolts with the can upside-down, it will super freeze the bolt and sometimes make it shrink enough to break free.
I like Rust Bullet a lot better than POR15. Also I cut a slot in a socket to remove line fittings like that. Looks good Jon.
Needle scalers are awesome (you know - for some things!). Used one to take the rust spots out of a buddies truck bed before spraying a 2 part bed liner in.
Have you looked for a tracking switch? To flick between high and low speed. I operate an old sandvik drill rig which has 3 functions on one switch; drill, tortoise, or rabbit.loving the show across the pond in Cornwall.😁
Well, the engine seems happy, no big smoke- I´d say You´ve given this old hunk a new, fair chance at being reliable and to do its job. Very good.
The finishing touches would be cabin heat and worklights- wouldn´t they? Kind Regards
Just sat down to lunch. Perfect timing!
Funny ending - you make great videos John.
Great video Jon. LARGE MARGE is really becoming one of my favorite video series. I hope you will consider a hydraulic thumb before you paint her and call it completed. See you next week.
I’ve been waiting 6months for you to work on excavator 2-speed repair. Mine has not worked since I got it. I troubleshooted electrical only so I need some inspiration to get into the plumbing. 😅
Waw old large Marge gets spoiled, new pedicure nice brown nail polish .❤
Nice job John. You certainly don’t half ass anything. Large Marge is going to be good and reliable after all the work you’ve done to her. I appreciate the video’s.
I learned from the ichiban moto channel you put some fine sand in the pipe then bend how you want. The sand prevents it from collapsing/kinking.
The Seals are working! Always good to see the progress, even with the set backs, your making some great videos in this series!
It only makes sense that old Marge moves at glacial speeds. I love her.
I found that the fiber cutting wheels work better with the Dremel over the stone cutting wheels like you used .I have used the fiber ones for years now.
I have used swagelok fittings for new and repair of hydraulic lines and gas lines. Find a spot on the tubing that is clean, put the fitting on and swage it with two wrench’s. I have used them on high pressure hydrogen lines, 10000 psi with no issues. I have repaired brake and hydraulic lines with no issues.
Wow! Have never clicked a link as fast as this, and I’m allso a Andrew Camarata fan 🤩 Greetings from Oslo Norway 😊
I've been waiting a long time to see that big excavator push over a sizeable tree ! and she didn't even flinch ! .... yes that thumb has to change.... like a hydrolic one ! fixed place like that it only has limited usage ! you need a hydraulic ram like the one you stole for the log splitter ! you should be able to find a used one locally ! then just run the lines from the big valve block to the cab and a 2 way valve and then to the ram ! ....that'll be alot of hose to get to that thing way out on the boom but it would really be worth it !
thanks Jon..... well done !!!
Look at investing into some metric grip edge stud extractors. They are pricey. But lifetime warranty. Work like a charm and really do bite down! Save you some hardware as well!
this is how you beat panels!!
great video as always sir!
best wishes to you and family
have a great day :)
I love the flaming tomahawk! Great tool
I like "flaming hacksaw".
When you got Large Marge you knew what was coming down the road, just like I do when I get an antique bike or car.
Inspirational. Patience is the key, isn't it ! Or persistence. I must remember that. Thanks, without a visual example the words don't make sense.
Hey John. I swear by Rust Check for anything that might concern me on my cars and equipment. Long Canadian winters and a crap ton of salt on the roads. RC stops rust dead in it's tracks. I would invest in a case of it and hit the whole underside of Marge.
Never heard of anyone having any luck with POS 15. My mason spent 12 k to have his dump frame done and it peeled off in 3 years. I do all my equipment with Ospho same shit as the Permatex you used then Rust oleum Rusty Metal Primer then top coat. I did an old hay rake 25 years ago and it's still intact.🍻
I used POS 15 an the engine bay of my old truck and it looked like crap and didn't hold up that well. The prep work was great since I was a building painter and the rust was minor surface rust. The next time, I sprayed 2 stage auto paint and it turned out far better. Rustoleum is better, even though it isn't anything great compared to the oil based paints I used to buy 20 years or so ago. Actually, I used rustoleum on the frame and door for my toyhauler trailer and it has held up well and has only lost sheen from the sun. It would be easy to lightly sand and top coat again, plus it is less expensive than that POS 15......perfect name for it.
You should bolt those panels together. May not prevent dirt from getting through, but could prevent debris from peeling them apart, which is how it's avoided crushing those lines.
you sir have the patience's of a saint .. lol especially with large marge
Hey, found that stick weld work better and dial sit down with the liquid wrench for blaster or whatever you use
Hi John …Kurtis did some amazing work this morning 22/11 GMT…
John If I'm not being too nosy, what audio books to like?
Saw a promotion for a documentary on seals and thought of you.
I must say you got my goat on this particular video.
Large Marge is quite the project and I’m sure it’s akin to painting a battleship, when you get to the end it’s time to start over
Great timing on the posting!!👍
Jon, trouble always comes in two's. congrats on finally getting the lines tooken care of. hopefully the soft line will be good until one of the other lines goes kuput..
have a case of beer on me..
It's honestly a miracle that those lines aren't all rotted out with how caked in dirt they were.
Great work James…. Knew this entire time he had true helpers!! Haha
I’ve heard that the rust encapsulator from Eastwood is pretty good for coating rusty metal
In the future cut the bad section of the hard line out and use some swagelok compression fittings to connect a new piece in.
I do tons of mainly thick wall stainless and titanium hard lines in the chemical industry and it really isn't that bad to do runs like this when you take your time and have a good bender.
Marge must be 2 tons less in weight, because the mud you remove out of her. Greetings from Germany.
I recently started welding a heavy washer on first, and then a nut. I seems to give a better surface to weld the nut to, and maybe more heat over a extended amount of time?? Anyway, I have yet to need to re-weld a snapped nut. And I use some paraffin as my lubricant, smokes like hell, but seems to creep into the threads pretty deep.
Some RTV before replacing the cover plates might keep the dust out. skip a space at the bottom to act as a weep??
If you find rust in places where looks dont matter the best solution is actually really easy to do. Just use a needle gun or a regular air hammer to knock of any loose rust and then apply some Owatrol Oil. Its a rust stopper, not a rust converter, so it simply blocks it from getting any more oxygen and water, which is actually more effective, because rust converters only work very superficial, while owatrol oil soaks deeply into the rust. If you like to, you can still paint it afterwards, owatrol actually hardens quite quickly
I know you hate oil but if I was you I would actually spray all areas like these with owatrol. As I said, it does harden out
I'm sorry, but i laughed when that bolt broke off on the final drive. I wasn't expecting that... haha
Another awesome job! It pushed that tree over like it was nothing. 🙂
When you weld on the nuts to remove the threaded part can you use a larger sized nut so the weld goes on the sides between the two then on top so the connection is stronger?
Have you thought about getting an articulating thumb for Marge? I understand that they are rather expensive but maybe a used one that needs some work could be worth it.
I've never tried a much larger nut, but if you have enough stud sticking out it seems like a good idea. I have thought about a hydraulic thumb, and maybe one day I'll look into it, but it's a lot of work and expense. I would have to tap into the hydraulic system and rig up a new control valve and a way to control it in the cab, run new lines the length of the boom, and then of course install the thumb cylinder. I think a basic thumb will probably work for me if I get one of the correct size, at least for awhile.
@@FarmCraft101
It was just some random thoughts running through my head while watching you do your magic :)
Well done that man.
Great job! Large Marge is still finding ways to challenge you! I was wondering if the replacement adjustment screw you made has to be hardened, at least the end where it applies the pressure? Most set screws have a hardness greater than the material they screw into. Also an idea for your cover plate over your hydraulic lines, why not make an angled flashing plate that you can bolt onto the cover plate? It could be made out of 1/8 thick steel stock, as it would not need to be as heavy as the main cover. With slotted holes to adjust the gap between the cover plate and the frame panel. I love your videos, for me, you have the best channel on RUclips! Thank you
At 35:22, wouldn't a right-angle connector have been better? I'd be concerned that the hose might vibrate against the cover. Oh OK, later it looks like it clears!
At 56:00, that was a dumb design! Great job, John! 👍 Always look forward to the next one!
Would something like a sacrificial anode help to prevent those solid lines from corroding in the future? Love watching you repair these machines, so thanks for all the amazing content.
I save eating my haagen-daz coffee ice cream until one of your videos comes up...both are a pure pleasure!
in the future if you need to replace lines you might try ac freon copper usually rated to 3000 PSI
you do good work love your content
At least in here, regular hydraulic shops sell hard line as well, and bend them to order if you don't want to do it yourself. Not too expensive either. Small diameter tube isn't that difficult to bend either.
I rebuild eletric motor from pumps, for irrigation. And always put grease on every bolt, it help when need to open. Here most pumps are used for fertilization for Coffee plantations. Urea and postassium cloride make castiron rot fast
wax candle works better than penetrating oil (when hot) imo ofc. love watching your videos.
I's sorry, but I laughed so god-damn hard when the same line of the other side started to drip. Oof. Glad it's you, bud.
18:45 I was thinking - "Is that a Nylock? Is he gonna weld a nylon nut to the broken stud?" and then it burned from the weld heat - I'm pretty sure that was a nylon locking nut and the nylon part melted and burned away, contaminating your weld :D It's not a surprise it didn't weld very well. The next one you welded on worked just fine. At 20:13 I couldn't tell if it was a toplock or a nylock nut. But since it came out it ended up working!
A trick that MIGHT help you. After heating the metal the bolt is threaded into - turn a can of compressed air upside down and spray the bolt itself. This causes it to shrink rapidly from the freezing cold blast, hopefully pulling the threads of the bolt away from the threads in the bulkhead where it is welded. It's basically a thermal cycle turbocharger :D
I love watching the improvising in real time.
When bolts are broken flush I will build weld up in the bolt first, hammer on the weld then weld on a nut. Also I will use an extension on a johnson bar so I can hold on the pivot point with one hand so I only put a torsional load on the bolt, making it less likely to break off.
Glad you got Marge to stop leaking! Seems like a good fix, and keeping the dirt out will do a great deal to preventing more corrosion.
22:15 Have you ever though about working for the Inquisition?
You seem to be very good at making things scream...
😄😁😆😅😂🤣
Marge. I used to love to watch “My Little Margie”.
I bet it felt really good to drive Large Marge around and do a little work with her. Are we gonna see a thumb lengthening in the future? 😀
Loved the the behind the scenes by the family members. 😅🤣😂😆😁😆
So nice to sit down in the couch and relax with a new episode. Just liveyour videos and the attitude. Keep it comming. ❤
You should get one of those handheld induction bolt heater upper things.
nice work jon
I bet "Ms. FarmCraft " loves the tracks Ol' Marges leaves on the grass ! 🙃🤭 Joking aside Large Marge is Immortal now !