absolutely one of the most clear , succinct, and comprehensive demonstrations i have seen on youtube yet....you articulate and communicate well...rear ends were always sort of a mystery to me and you have,for the first time gave a me an excellent understanding as to how they work
Thank you so much for this video, so detailed and clearly explained with clear images and quality camera work. I've repaired my own cars for many years, changed clutches, done engine transplants, lapped valves with cylinder heads removed, rebuilt carbs, injection systems, brakes etc. but never understood differentials, they were always a mystery to me but the way you explained it, I really get it now, thanks dude.
Thanks so much for this video from a year ago! I learned so much about the Rear Differential, backlash, and the driveshaft. Much appreciated for all of your time and efforts.
What a good video. I really like how you try to address all possible concerns with regards to various situations. You've de-mystified the whole preload of the input shaft nut.
Great set of vids Matt. You probably opened up a whole new world to most DIYer's. Most would probably not have been aware of how tight the tolerances are in a differential and what is involved in rebuilding one.
Billy R Exactly. The tolerances are incredibly important. Even .002" of an inch off makes the difference between doing this again in a few weeks or 10 years.
Like the video. I worked for a Jeep agent and we found that the axles with limited slip differentials can judder and make quite a bit of noise. We used to change the oil and add the Chrysler additive, I think this was recommended at 60,000 miles in the UK. This would after doing some tight turns (to spread the newly treated oil around the clutch plates) reduce the noise.This won't fix the wear that this video covers resolving of course but is worth a try if the axle is juddering before a major repair.
Thank you for this video. My rear diff from my Eclipse is in the shop right now because of excessive backlash and now since watching this, I'll know whether they're trying to screw me or not lol
Thank you for the easy to understand explanation, I have a similar problem with my 1984 Toyota Supra with the clunk notice when shifting from park to reverse or shifting to forward. I think I will try to fix it my self with guidance from your two videos.
+Todd Shelby I am currently working on a full rear ended rebuild tutorial hopefully out in a few weeks. Much more detail on doing a complete overhaul -correctly
Hi bro. I really like the way you diagnose. And I don't see local mechanics here with your level of knowledge and know how. When ever or who ever I visit is usually trial and errors. You should visit Qatar some time. We definetely need some cool intelligent people like you here.
Yes very helpful. Organize and clear instructions on how to do a GM axle. I got a 98 Chevy Astro AWD and are dealing with noise. I now have had a quick crash course on how to solve it. Thanks!! And happy motoring...
I have a 97 S10,very similar to the Astro. Probably uses the same 7.6 in rear axle. It had about 200k on it. Anyway it was making a whirring/whining sound that was very noticeable especially at freeway speeds. It was just worn out. I Put new carrier bearings in,new spider gears,a little thicker oil. Ultimately it didn't matter the noise and backlash was too great. The ring & pinion was just too worn out to fix. I ended up just finding a good one at the wrecking yard for $250. Now it's fixed. It was a peice of cake to swap them out. The parts and tools are expensive for the 7.6 Chevy axle. Gears $250. Gear& bearings set up kit $150. (for the cheap Chinese kit) Bearing puller at Harbor Freight $90 getting the new bearings pressed on the carrier $45. Then you need special measuring tools to get the pinion depth right and to set the gear backlash. Those aren't cheap and you'll probably only need them once. Is you're Astro AWD? It might be the transfer case since nobody hardly ever changes the oil in those things. The spider gears don't seem to be overly durable in the 7.6in,maybe its just worn spiders? I took the cover off several axles to find an axle that wasn't on its way out. Just letting you know this before you go and tear into it and that may not even the problem. I saw complete axles on Ebay good supposedly tested ones $200-$400. IDK if the shipping was free? I think they even had a 90 day warranty. Transfer case might use a special oil you can only get at the Chevy dealer,it might? I just bought 4 quarts. It was $100,for my 5 speed transmission. It's a special hypoid gear oil. There is no substitute oil you can use. If your transfer case uses this oil and you put any other oil in it,its gonna toast on you. So make sure to ask the dealer about that. Then again it may just use type 3 ATF? Good luck. I know that noise has to drive you nuts. I am so glad that mine is fixed. If you do decide to get a used one,make sure you get the exact same gear ratio. I swapped mine out in less than 3hrs. It's also known as a 7& 5/8 in rear axle.
Nice video, well done. You didn't mention anything about the distinctive stench of diff gear oil. Stinks up the shop for sure. I've done a few pinion bearing replacements for neighbors - they were quoted ridiculous prices for this job - I just couldn't let them get robbed!
Fantastic explanation, Matt. One of my favorite vids on your channel for sure :) It's amazing how important tolerances are in a mechanical system. Scary to think that a few thousandths of an inch make all the difference between long-term reliability and premature self-destruction!
motoYam82 Yes it cannot be overstated how critical that lash adjustment and pinion depth adjustment is. Setting those correctly is a lot of labor and I'll show it soon enough.
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics . That's the difference between the professionals rebuilding your differential rear end. And the average cheapo fly-by night b/s shop.
hey matt, very informative video and excellent explanation for beginners who does not know so much about how to diagnoses the differential and very helpful how the system works hopefully will see the complete rebuild very soon great info as always thanks for sharing my brother from different mother cheers and cheeeeers.
Great video with plenty of relevant practical detail. For the novice, a step by step approach can eliminate catastrophic outcomes.Looking forward to the total rebuild and a tutorial on the use of any measuring instruments used.Slan agus beannacht.
You got LUCKY with just a loose nut, I thought for sure pinion bearing. In the mid 70's at age 19/20 [yeah back in the day of leaded fuel, etc.] I built a 67 Camaro RS Yenko clone which had a 427/425 and 12 bolt with 456 gears and a 4 speed that had a bad pinion bearing as the nut would come loose so I would just tighten it up every so often when it got noisy, finally me and a friend stripped it down and replaced all bearings, shims and ring and pinion, all I used was the paint method with no dial indicator and it was quiet as a mouse so it appears with proper teeth mesh backlash with fall into place. Used to turn mid 12's at 110 mph like nothing with that with 25 inch tall slicks-- 456 on the street = stay off the highway and excessive engine wear, its really a drag gear
Fantastic video. I have the diff out of my jaguar irs to replace seals and in my ignorance did not mark the pinion nut to allow returning to the same original position. To reset the preload would you risk retightening the original crush washer to the correct torque (120 lbs/inch) to reset preload. This would avoid stripping the diff although I have a new washer and nut.
WOW 1st Zexel torsion rear end video I have seen that shows as much as yours bud, good shit. So I have an 02 z28 a4 3:23. an I recently have been tryin to track down a roaring from the rear end. and after replacing axles, axle bearings n seals, adding BMR adjustable pan hard an torque arm (adjustable because I adding lowering springs), and replacing all bushings with poly, even made sure the pinion angle was still -2 to -3 degrees. so I finally got up the nerve to go deeper and went ahead an removed the carrier and I'll admit I should have marked things like u b4 I did, but I didn't but I did keep everything separated to which side it came off. so I instantly see a problem with the driver side carrier bearing being bad and noted the that the other side was not in the best shape so I had them replaced and I reinstalled carrier using same shims caps even bolts to the side they came off of. well good news is the roaring is gone....but.......I now how a loud howling starting or slowing also at a slow roll. As far as I can tell the pinion and yoke are good. could my problem now be reusing the old shims instead of getting new 1s since the new carrier bearings mite not be exactly where the olds 1s sat? Any advice or insite would be awesome. my car only has 60k miles and the way this rearend has had me chacing my tail it mite not ever see 70k miles. Again thanx for ur videos. and keep up the good work, we appreciate them.
The most amazing part of that video was you crushing a new crush sleeve with a battery powered impact wrench and being able to hold the yoke by hand while doing it.
Great video! I am still trying to discern the noise coming from the front of my 2004 jeep. It could be the diff - or the driveshaft... anyway, only after the car is driven for 10 - 15 minutes a very loud grinding sound is heard when the gas pedal is no longer being pushed. Give it some gas with either acceleration sound goes away. Take foot off the gas pedal, the grinding is horrendous. Is this characteristic of a pinion bearings going bad? I opened the diff cover, no metal flakes or peices, all looked good. Did not take anything out of the diff because I did not see your vid at the time. THanks for all of this work!!
Thankyou for the video easy to understand maybe you can help solve my problem. I had a leaking rear seal from my diff on my 2005 Pontiac gto. Watched a video on youtube on how to replace it. I didn't know about the crush washer. So I removed the drive shaft and yoke, marked the pinion nut position and undone nut counting the number of turns it took to come off. Installed new seal put everything back together. Fixed the leak no problems for 6 months now I have a loud clunk only in 1st gear or reverse when I let the clutch out to move off. It only does it sometimes not all the time.No vibrations or whining noises when driving along or changing gears just 1st or reverse. The clutch is new and my cv shafts are new center bearing and u joints look fine. Do you think the pinion nut has come loose or I didn't tighten it enough? After seeing your video I need to take the car to an expert I just don't want to be ripped off. If I had a major problem with the diff surely it would be noisy all the time?
I'm just going to get it rebuilt i don't want to buy another differential when i can get it rebuilt. But the guy told me i have backlash and the gears are worn out they're slapping each other. Then another mechanic told me if it's no vibration and it's not making noise then it's not my ring and pinion gear it's probably something else. But i just need to rebuild it cause you did yours and yours is riding better
So the whole issue was ur yoke backed off because it was not torque right. I just love the way u explained things especially parts and procedure, lots of thanks.
It was torqued right, but over it time it loosened from the extreme torque in my drag racing at the strip. Retorquing properly fixed it so I was lucky.
Torque up nut to spec. Then remove crush collar then measure and make a steel spacer and fit instead of crush collar. Then you can tighten nut FT with high grade loctite. So with that done you can launch hard without the worry of the crush collar crushing and the nut coming undone. 👍
Hey great instructional videos by the way. I have a question regarding my 1995 Z28. I finally have some time to dedicate much needed attention to the rear end of which has a very loud roaring sound coming from it. Now my plan is to just replace all bearing, axle, carrier and pinion. I don't have a press or access to one, what do you recommend to replace in particular the carrier bearings?
Hi Matt I was a Honda tech for30 yrs and I got a BIG smile when you said I got to get back to beating up on the rice boys! Best of luck Joe PS Did this happed at autocross or 1/4 mile?
Awesome video. In some ways I'm glad I don't have a RWD. Just something else to worry about breaking. Got that backlash dialed in perfect. Hook up is dead silent sounds great to me.
+DJDevon3 Thanks bro- yeah the pinion hookup and just "feels" perfect. It's impossible to describe but even from the drivers seat you can just tell if it's too much. Then again hard-launch any F-Body car long enough and you will get pretty good at rear end problem diagnosis before long lol!!
GRowe1978 Its not going to be for a while. I want it to be a complete instructional so that anyone who wants to do a rebuild correctly and completely can follow along. Also there are many variations of differentials- the limited slip mechanisms, spacers, spider gear setups, and other things are all very different and I want to sort of "mesh" the variations so it will cover these models.
Schrodingers Box That sounds awesome! I'm sure I'll learn a few new tricks from the video, as usual! These two videos had some great info, I can't wait to see the complete rebuild!
Schrodingers Box Posi track upgrade with full explanation video. get a limited slip gear set out of a 4x4 at the yard, replace all the goodies makes a great how to and to boot, 2 black marks. Or if you have a decent budget, just order like an eaton or detroit locker. Mechanical locking diff. I believe they r clutchless too. SUch a bonus on a stallion of a ride like that. hehe.
Great informative video , I can’t seem to find the link to your video of the total rear end rebuild . I would appreciate any help finding the video if you can help . I am in the process of buying a Pontiac Solstice that has a clunk when shifting gears. The problem may be serious or something simple . I haven’t got the car yet .
Did you also have to go back to the store to for the GM differential additive? Even though a lot of the synthetic gear oils say it has additive it's usually not enough to keep the limited slip clunking down when turning the car in circles. In my C4 Vette rear end I use two of those small bottles. Take care man
Schrodingers Box it does sound pretty throaty. what variety of Engine is in it. I have a suggestion for a vid that would probably get some decent hits. Cam / Spring swap. If that is a 4.8 / 5.3 LS based engine u can get low 400 horse at the flywheel just with those mods alone. ;P you can do before and after track times to see how it is different. I know you don't really want to go down the Performance type video, but it is a Mechanical video backed up by a time slip ;P
May have to do this. At 4:12, do I need a $500 Miller Tool (C-3339A) Dial Indicator Set per the Jeep Service Manual or can I go with something a little less expensive?
Just noticed the sma sticker on your toolbox. Good to know all the guys that actually know what they're doing are friends. But where's scotty kilmer's sticker? Shirley that should be taking pride of place..
Video comments - SEAL always needs grease or at least oil before installing the yoke. Reason - you will burn up a dry seal before the seal can get lubed from the gear oil in the rear. 15 to 20 inch pounds for used bearings ALWAYS creep up on the preload checking after each torque. Do not forget to peen that nut or you will be back in the same place again in a few track runs. :) I see he has a stick shift trans --- This will make a short life of any 7.625 rear if driven hard. Have fun ! Overall pretty good tutorial . Jim J D
Can you test a center section effectively without it actually being installed? (i.e. no axles). Reason I'm asking is I'm thinking of buying a used center section complete with ring and pinion, and I just want to make sure the thing isn't toast. I'd assume you can just put a little bit of resistance on the ring gear by holding it, and just move the pinion back and forth with your other hand. I just want to make sure that doing this would defeat the purpose and if it could actually indicate anything. Thanks so much for your advice and I hope to hear from you!
Top some extent you can. It may vary the backlash because of the absence of the axle load but by pushing on the ring gear firmly and holding pinion firmly you can get a pretty good backlash measurement.
Another great tutorial, and a nice sounding ponti Sorry, I'm sure it has already been asked and stated, but what is your best 1/4 ET for your machine, and also, does your wife call you Smokey?
I have a question, we think its my carrier bearing making the humming noise in my rear. Have you done that yourself, or have a shop remove them and press the new ones on?
+Todd Shelby The way i do it is I have a shop press the new carrier bearings on and then remove the pinion bearing, I then grind out the old pinion bearing so it fits on the pinion snugly but not that it needs a press, and I use this as a setup bearing to adjust pinion depth. When I have my gear pattern and backlash set right I have the shop press the new pinion bearing on, recheck backlash and mesh and then assemble permenantly. I do not have tools to do my own pressing and pulling- actually I did but they broke on my last attempt- those bearings can be on so tight they just bend or strip the hand-tool pullers!
Hey.......i know this is off topic, but I'm trouble shooting an ABS system with active wheel sensors and following the scientific method I think I've eliminated the wheel sensors and The wiring. My question is does auto enginuity read abs wheel speed sensor output? I had to buy a wheel speed sensor which tests the sensors for output and that was ok.
The same tester can also be used to send a fake signal to the computer to see if the computer can read it, but I don't have a scan tool that reads individual wheel speed sensors. If you tell me that auto enginuity can do that, it may be time for me to finally buy it.....
I may not be looking in the right spot but I can not find the complete rebuild video that you said you were going to do. Are you still planning on doing it?
Purdy Birdy... Hey man... lets see some videos of you rebuilding that 10 bolt (any possibly any ways of strengthening it), and properly mounting/adjusting some rear control arms/PHB! If you're in CO, I'll bring over beer and help you film (Teach me to swap my stock rear gears to 4.10s :D )
+seth alton I am working on a complete rebuild tutorial with performance considerations. It will be the best video ever on complete rear end rebuilding.
Off topic kind of, but in your budget rebuild series you really made an effort to show how much better off you'd be buying a used engine. I was wondering if you felt the same way about rebuilding an engine with nothing wrong with it, like for a project car and you wanted to swap a motor or something and wanted to add a few bolt ons to it. Is it still not worth it? Or do you think that might be worth trying to do yourself?
+Bob Builder You are correct- in fact one of the points I was trying to make is a used engine is really a better option is most cases. About the only way you will be able to do a literal "budget" rebuild is if the rings and bearings are worn but no damage has occurred and the block itself is still in spec. In these cases, I can do the rebuild for around $500 with a standard rebuild kit.
OK cool. Hopefully it's not a big deal that I used valvoline 75w120 (or whatever the weird winter range it is) with additive built in. If so, I'll swap it out asap. (92 z28)
@@SchrodingersBox very thankful, I have the same problem my spider gears are broken and the housing damaged, I will to replace all housing, Im very scaried to do by myself but thanks your video I will try... Thanks for share your knowledge
I presume the splines did not have any play in them. The only times I have seen a nuts strip out like that was when they came loose first creating a slide hammer action.
I had worn splines on an early English FWD car once. The hub nut would come loose every few weeks. There was only a small amount of slack but nevertheless enough to unwind the nut.
I just had 4.10 gears installed in my 94 mustang gt and now I have a clunking while coasting (only). I read online and figured it's the shims. Do you think I might possibly be right? I am not a mechanic, but I believe I am as capable as the next guy; I just need some guidance. By the way Schrodinger, Great video!
With the cost of all the materials and special tools required, I think my firebird is technically totaled. It's a shame really. It still runs like new, the body is straight, it has no rust, it's been well maintained for the 18 years I've had it, and it only has 104k miles on it. But then there's that slight humming noise between 45 and 65 under low throttle conditions...
Maybe if you are a beginner. If you practice you will have the ability to control the torque amazingly well. But If you still feel safer using a breaker bar I can't argue. How do you lock the pinion gear though?
Авто/Мото
absolutely one of the most clear , succinct, and comprehensive demonstrations i have seen on youtube yet....you articulate and communicate well...rear ends were always sort of a mystery to me and you have,for the first time gave a me an excellent understanding as to how they work
Patrick Connolly you took the words from my mouth
Didn't even read this comment before posting. We basically said the same thing. Lol. Wish their were more people like this guy on RUclips.
Thank you so much for this video, so detailed and clearly explained with clear images and quality camera work. I've repaired my own cars for many years, changed clutches, done engine transplants, lapped valves with cylinder heads removed, rebuilt carbs, injection systems, brakes etc. but never understood differentials, they were always a mystery to me but the way you explained it, I really get it now, thanks dude.
Thanks so much for this video from a year ago! I learned so much about the Rear Differential, backlash, and the driveshaft. Much appreciated for all of your time and efforts.
What a good video. I really like how you try to address all possible concerns with regards to various situations. You've de-mystified the whole preload of the input shaft nut.
Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to make this 2 part video.
My fuzzy understanding of rear differentials is a little more clear.
Great set of vids Matt. You probably opened up a whole new world to most DIYer's. Most would probably not have been aware of how tight the tolerances are in a differential and what is involved in rebuilding one.
Billy R Exactly. The tolerances are incredibly important. Even .002" of an inch off makes the difference between doing this again in a few weeks or 10 years.
Great Walk through! Can't wait to see the rebuild video and the AC one you're working on! Thanks! Chuck
Like the video. I worked for a Jeep agent and we found that the axles with limited slip differentials can judder and make quite a bit of noise. We used to change the oil and add the Chrysler additive, I think this was recommended at 60,000 miles in the UK. This would after doing some tight turns (to spread the newly treated oil around the clutch plates) reduce the noise.This won't fix the wear that this video covers resolving of course but is worth a try if the axle is juddering before a major repair.
I wanted to see three gears at your power band... speed shifted!!! The reward for your hard work.
Watching this from Kenya and this is absolutely the best videos I have watched
Yes part 1 and part 2 videos were very helpful and appreciated.
Thank you for this video. My rear diff from my Eclipse is in the shop right now because of excessive backlash and now since watching this, I'll know whether they're trying to screw me or not lol
Great video.. you are the sort of instructor who's students stay at the edge of their seats! Maybe should consider writing your keen eye for detail!
Thank you for the easy to understand explanation, I have a similar problem with my 1984 Toyota Supra with the clunk notice when shifting from park to reverse or shifting to forward. I think I will try to fix it my self with guidance from your two videos.
Awesome detailed explanation. I am considering rebuilding my rear diff and I was a bit hesitant until seeing your video. Thanks for the info!!
+Todd Shelby I am currently working on a full rear ended rebuild tutorial hopefully out in a few weeks. Much more detail on doing a complete overhaul -correctly
Another great video, I love watching them!!
Excellent video! Great visual and explanation of how and why. Thank you
Thank you! I finally understood the concept. Great videos!!
Bro you are a total life saver with your channel..... a great through mechanic
Good job on this demo! you made it very easy to follow
Hi bro. I really like the way you diagnose. And I don't see local mechanics here with your level of knowledge and know how. When ever or who ever I visit is usually trial and errors. You should visit Qatar some time. We definetely need some cool intelligent people like you here.
Great video, pics and explanation.Thank you......
Thanks! That was supremely helpful and easy to understand!
oh I see... thank you sir, now I can go to the shop and kind of know what they are going to tell me about my noise. Thank you.
Yes very helpful. Organize and clear instructions on how to do a GM axle. I got a 98 Chevy Astro AWD and are dealing with noise. I now have had a quick crash course on how to solve it. Thanks!! And happy motoring...
I have a 97 S10,very similar to the Astro. Probably uses the same 7.6 in rear axle. It had about 200k on it. Anyway it was making a whirring/whining sound that was very noticeable especially at freeway speeds. It was just worn out. I Put new carrier bearings in,new spider gears,a little thicker oil. Ultimately it didn't matter the noise and backlash was too great. The ring & pinion was just too worn out to fix. I ended up just finding a good one at the wrecking yard for $250. Now it's fixed. It was a peice of cake to swap them out. The parts and tools are expensive for the 7.6 Chevy axle. Gears $250. Gear& bearings set up kit $150.
(for the cheap Chinese kit) Bearing puller at Harbor Freight $90 getting the new bearings pressed on the carrier $45. Then you need special measuring tools to get the pinion depth right and to set the gear backlash. Those aren't cheap and you'll probably only need them once. Is you're Astro AWD? It might be the transfer case since nobody hardly ever changes the oil in those things. The spider gears don't seem to be overly durable in the 7.6in,maybe its just worn spiders? I took the cover off several axles to find an axle that wasn't on its way out. Just letting you know this before you go and tear into it and that may not even the problem. I saw complete axles on Ebay good supposedly tested ones $200-$400. IDK if the shipping was free? I think they even had a 90 day warranty. Transfer case might use a special oil you can only get at the Chevy dealer,it might? I just bought 4 quarts. It was $100,for my 5 speed transmission. It's a special hypoid gear oil. There is no substitute oil you can use. If your transfer case uses this oil and you put any other oil in it,its gonna toast on you. So make sure to ask the dealer about that. Then again it may just use type 3 ATF? Good luck. I know that noise has to drive you nuts. I am so glad that mine is fixed. If you do decide to get a used one,make sure you get the exact same gear ratio. I swapped mine out in less than 3hrs. It's also known as a 7& 5/8 in rear axle.
Nice video, well done. You didn't mention anything about the distinctive stench of diff gear oil. Stinks up the shop for sure. I've done a few pinion bearing replacements for neighbors - they were quoted ridiculous prices for this job - I just couldn't let them get robbed!
Fantastic explanation, Matt. One of my favorite vids on your channel for sure :) It's amazing how important tolerances are in a mechanical system. Scary to think that a few thousandths of an inch make all the difference between long-term reliability and premature self-destruction!
motoYam82 Yes it cannot be overstated how critical that lash adjustment and pinion depth adjustment is.
Setting those correctly is a lot of labor and I'll show it soon enough.
Perfect
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics . That's the difference between the professionals rebuilding your differential rear end. And the average cheapo fly-by night b/s shop.
nice clear video, and your hands don't block the viewer like a lot of other vids on youtube...
Really simple and straightforward. Absolutely great instruction video on this particular procedure.
Much appreciated!
hey matt, very informative video and excellent explanation for beginners who does not know so much about how to diagnoses the differential and very helpful how the system works hopefully will see the complete rebuild very soon great info as always thanks for sharing my brother from different mother cheers and cheeeeers.
Great video with plenty of relevant practical detail. For the novice, a step by step approach can eliminate catastrophic outcomes.Looking forward to the total rebuild and a tutorial on the use of any measuring instruments used.Slan agus beannacht.
You got LUCKY with just a loose nut, I thought for sure pinion bearing. In the mid 70's at age 19/20 [yeah back in the day of leaded fuel, etc.] I built a 67 Camaro RS Yenko clone which had a 427/425 and 12 bolt with 456 gears and a 4 speed that had a bad pinion bearing as the nut would come loose so I would just tighten it up every so often when it got noisy, finally me and a friend stripped it down and replaced all bearings, shims and ring and pinion, all I used was the paint method with no dial indicator and it was quiet as a mouse so it appears with proper teeth mesh backlash with fall into place. Used to turn mid 12's at 110 mph like nothing with that with 25 inch tall slicks-- 456 on the street = stay off the highway and excessive engine wear, its really a drag gear
Real nice explanation 👍
Fantastic video. I have the diff out of my jaguar irs to replace seals and in my ignorance did not mark the pinion nut to allow returning to the same original position. To reset the preload would you risk retightening the original crush washer to the correct torque (120 lbs/inch) to reset preload. This would avoid stripping the diff although I have a new washer and nut.
Your video’s are king !
Very thorough Matt. New subscriber here.
that was a great video man!
Wheres your total rebuild video THANX for the great videos
WOW 1st Zexel torsion rear end video I have seen that shows as much as yours bud, good shit. So I have an 02 z28 a4 3:23. an I recently have been tryin to track down a roaring from the rear end. and after replacing axles, axle bearings n seals, adding BMR adjustable pan hard an torque arm (adjustable because I adding lowering springs), and replacing all bushings with poly, even made sure the pinion angle was still -2 to -3 degrees. so I finally got up the nerve to go deeper and went ahead an removed the carrier and I'll admit I should have marked things like u b4 I did, but I didn't but I did keep everything separated to which side it came off. so I instantly see a problem with the driver side carrier bearing being bad and noted the that the other side was not in the best shape so I had them replaced and I reinstalled carrier using same shims caps even bolts to the side they came off of. well good news is the roaring is gone....but.......I now how a loud howling starting or slowing also at a slow roll. As far as I can tell the pinion and yoke are good. could my problem now be reusing the old shims instead of getting new 1s since the new carrier bearings mite not be exactly where the olds 1s sat? Any advice or insite would be awesome. my car only has 60k miles and the way this rearend has had me chacing my tail it mite not ever see 70k miles. Again thanx for ur videos. and keep up the good work, we appreciate them.
A load roar could be bad carrier bearings, axle bearings, improper bearing load on the carrier, or incorrect backlash setting.
thanks matt this a helpful video .
Make parts list before going to store.
Good stuff!
The most amazing part of that video was you crushing a new crush sleeve with a battery powered impact wrench and being able to hold the yoke by hand while doing it.
+George Heri. LOL Nice catch- I actually used an air impact to do it but didn't show that.
great videos. ..thank you
that's a great explanation to the mysterious crush sleeve debate.
mongoosevacations not really here at jeep it takes more than a battery gun to crush our sleeve that part had me but hey no noise and good pattern
Great video! I am still trying to discern the noise coming from the front of my 2004 jeep. It could be the diff - or the driveshaft... anyway, only after the car is driven for 10 - 15 minutes a very loud grinding sound is heard when the gas pedal is no longer being pushed. Give it some gas with either acceleration sound goes away. Take foot off the gas pedal, the grinding is horrendous. Is this characteristic of a pinion bearings going bad? I opened the diff cover, no metal flakes or peices, all looked good. Did not take anything out of the diff because I did not see your vid at the time. THanks for all of this work!!
Thankyou for the video easy to understand maybe you can help solve my problem. I had a leaking rear seal from my diff on my 2005 Pontiac gto. Watched a video on youtube on how to replace it. I didn't know about the crush washer. So I removed the drive shaft and yoke, marked the pinion nut position and undone nut counting the number of turns it took to come off. Installed new seal put everything back together. Fixed the leak no problems for 6 months now I have a loud clunk only in 1st gear or reverse when I let the clutch out to move off. It only does it sometimes not all the time.No vibrations or whining noises when driving along or changing gears just 1st or reverse. The clutch is new and my cv shafts are new center bearing and u joints look fine. Do you think the pinion nut has come loose or I didn't tighten it enough? After seeing your video I need to take the car to an expert I just don't want to be ripped off. If I had a major problem with the diff surely it would be noisy all the time?
Wow, Great vid!
Once again you are the man. The only thing missing in this series was some sarcastic wit regarding some of the viewers idiotic premeditated comments.
Hahaha I must have been in a bad mood during this video lol
Can you make a video covers drive shaft end plays.. Nice video. Thanks.
Great video ! Thanks.
You are welcome!
Nice job and video. I think I would have tightened the pinion to the high end of preload however. It usually takes a lot to compress the crush sleeve.
+wysetech2000 If it were new inner bearing I would probably be more inclined to go with more preload, but not with a 100K mile used inner bearing.
I'm just going to get it rebuilt i don't want to buy another differential when i can get it rebuilt. But the guy told me i have backlash and the gears are worn out they're slapping each other. Then another mechanic told me if it's no vibration and it's not making noise then it's not my ring and pinion gear it's probably something else. But i just need to rebuild it cause you did yours and yours is riding better
Outstanding!
So the whole issue was ur yoke backed off because it was not torque right. I just love the way u explained things especially parts and procedure, lots of thanks.
It was torqued right, but over it time it loosened from the extreme torque in my drag racing at the strip. Retorquing properly fixed it so I was lucky.
Torque up nut to spec.
Then remove crush collar then measure and make a steel spacer and fit instead of crush collar. Then you can tighten nut FT with high grade loctite.
So with that done you can launch hard without the worry of the crush collar crushing and the nut coming undone. 👍
Hey great instructional videos by the way.
I have a question regarding my 1995 Z28.
I finally have some time to dedicate much needed attention to the rear end of which has a very loud roaring sound coming from it.
Now my plan is to just replace all bearing, axle, carrier and pinion.
I don't have a press or access to one, what do you recommend to replace in particular the carrier bearings?
A machine shop. The one i use does them for just $20.
Great video =)
you should do a show dude very good!!
Hi Matt I was a Honda tech for30 yrs and I got a BIG smile when you said I got to get back to beating up on the rice boys!
Best of luck Joe
PS Did this happed at autocross or 1/4 mile?
Joseph Tucci 1/4 mile is all I do. Terrible for the rear end for sure. You see lots and lots of cars blow the rear end right off the line.
Awesome video. In some ways I'm glad I don't have a RWD. Just something else to worry about breaking. Got that backlash dialed in perfect. Hook up is dead silent sounds great to me.
+DJDevon3 Thanks bro- yeah the pinion hookup and just "feels" perfect. It's impossible to describe but even from the drivers seat you can just tell if it's too much. Then again hard-launch any F-Body car long enough and you will get pretty good at rear end problem diagnosis before long lol!!
Hey Matt, great videos as usual. Do you have any idea when you will be able to put up the complete rebuild video?
GRowe1978 Its not going to be for a while. I want it to be a complete instructional so that anyone who wants to do a rebuild correctly and completely can follow along. Also there are many variations of differentials- the limited slip mechanisms, spacers, spider gear setups, and other things are all very different and I want to sort of "mesh" the variations so it will cover these models.
Schrodingers Box That sounds awesome! I'm sure I'll learn a few new tricks from the video, as usual! These two videos had some great info, I can't wait to see the complete rebuild!
Schrodingers Box Posi track upgrade with full explanation video. get a limited slip gear set out of a 4x4 at the yard, replace all the goodies makes a great how to and to boot, 2 black marks. Or if you have a decent budget, just order like an eaton or detroit locker. Mechanical locking diff. I believe they r clutchless too. SUch a bonus on a stallion of a ride like that. hehe.
nice video..wish i could have you rebuild my z28 rear end
Is FWD differential similar? Great video!
Great vid thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great informative video , I can’t seem to find the link to your video of the total rear end rebuild . I would appreciate any help finding the video if you can help . I am in the process of buying a Pontiac Solstice that has a clunk when shifting gears. The problem may be serious or something simple . I haven’t got the car yet .
That is on my paid channel at www.schrodingersboxqm.com. I think it’s like a 4 part series. Only $3.49 per month, cancel anytime.
Did you also have to go back to the store to for the GM differential additive? Even though a lot of the synthetic gear oils say it has additive it's usually not enough to keep the limited slip clunking down when turning the car in circles. In my C4 Vette rear end I use two of those small bottles. Take care man
+Ozzstar I have always just used regular "dino" (non synthetic) 75W-90 with regular off the shelf additive ever since I owned the car.
+Schrodingers Box let me ask you this how does a driveshaft fall out with the u joint brackets still on the yoke? while driving
+Schrodingers Box and the bolts
Good stuff
It shouldn't matter who's neighborhood you're in. You should have the same respect for everyone.
I'll remember that advice when i'm in Syria. I am sure it will get me beheaded
lol
You were able to crush the crush sleeve with just that rechargeable impact gun??
Your test drive makes me want to buy a TA!
Randall Dalton Hahaha, it sounds great doesn't it? I've torn up a lot of asphalt over the years with it!!
Schrodingers Box it does sound pretty throaty. what variety of Engine is in it. I have a suggestion for a vid that would probably get some decent hits. Cam / Spring swap. If that is a 4.8 / 5.3 LS based engine u can get low 400 horse at the flywheel just with those mods alone. ;P you can do before and after track times to see how it is different. I know you don't really want to go down the Performance type video, but it is a Mechanical video backed up by a time slip ;P
This is a LSD Trans Am differential?
Because I have one of these cars and there's a clicking noise when I start to drive in any direction.
May have to do this. At 4:12, do I need a $500 Miller Tool (C-3339A) Dial Indicator Set per the Jeep Service Manual or can I go with something a little less expensive?
I use a pretty cheap setup I got from amazon. It was more like $150. Certainly not $500
Just noticed the sma sticker on your toolbox. Good to know all the guys that actually know what they're doing are friends. But where's scotty kilmer's sticker? Shirley that should be taking pride of place..
+lolz larkin Yeah I noticed we also have mostly the same subscribers too. Birds of a feather flock together!
... And did you just call me Shirley?
Yeah, I discovered him from a comment on one of your videos I think.
Airplane! bants. moodyeyeview.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/airplane-jpg.jpg
matt we want see video for Repairs ECU Car control
Video comments - SEAL always needs grease or at least oil before installing the yoke.
Reason - you will burn up a dry seal before the seal can get lubed from the gear oil in the rear.
15 to 20 inch pounds for used bearings
ALWAYS creep up on the preload checking after each torque.
Do not forget to peen that nut or you will be back in the same place again in a few track runs. :)
I see he has a stick shift trans --- This will make a short life of any 7.625 rear if driven hard. Have fun !
Overall pretty good tutorial .
Jim
J D
+Jim Mitschke Good points, in fact I include all this and more in the rebuild video when I release it.
@@SchrodingersBox Where's the rebuilt video?
www.schrodingersboxqm.com
Can you test a center section effectively without it actually being installed? (i.e. no axles). Reason I'm asking is I'm thinking of buying a used center section complete with ring and pinion, and I just want to make sure the thing isn't toast. I'd assume you can just put a little bit of resistance on the ring gear by holding it, and just move the pinion back and forth with your other hand. I just want to make sure that doing this would defeat the purpose and if it could actually indicate anything. Thanks so much for your advice and I hope to hear from you!
Top some extent you can. It may vary the backlash because of the absence of the axle load but by pushing on the ring gear firmly and holding pinion firmly you can get a pretty good backlash measurement.
Another great tutorial, and a nice sounding ponti
Sorry, I'm sure it has already been asked and stated, but what is your best 1/4 ET for your machine, and also, does your wife call you Smokey?
+David Bell She calls me bandit and I call her Frog
+Schrodingers Box Pennies from Heaven mate
if the yoke backs off will that cause my drive shaft to clunk a lot?
maybe thats whats wrong with my 03 silverado k1500
Maybe. What was the backlash measurement?
thanks ,
I have a question, we think its my carrier bearing making the humming noise in my rear. Have you done that yourself, or have a shop remove them and press the new ones on?
+Todd Shelby The way i do it is I have a shop press the new carrier bearings on and then remove the pinion bearing, I then grind out the old pinion bearing so it fits on the pinion snugly but not that it needs a press, and I use this as a setup bearing to adjust pinion depth. When I have my gear pattern and backlash set right I have the shop press the new pinion bearing on, recheck backlash and mesh and then assemble permenantly.
I do not have tools to do my own pressing and pulling- actually I did but they broke on my last attempt- those bearings can be on so tight they just bend or strip the hand-tool pullers!
Hey.......i know this is off topic, but I'm trouble shooting an ABS system with active wheel sensors and following the scientific method I think I've eliminated the wheel sensors and The wiring. My question is does auto enginuity read abs wheel speed sensor output? I had to buy a wheel speed sensor which tests the sensors for output and that was ok.
The same tester can also be used to send a fake signal to the computer to see if the computer can read it, but I don't have a scan tool that reads individual wheel speed sensors. If you tell me that auto enginuity can do that, it may be time for me to finally buy it.....
Did you ever do the rear end rebuild video??
i did… on the pay channel.
I may not be looking in the right spot but I can not find the complete rebuild video that you said you were going to do. Are you still planning on doing it?
I did- it is located at www.schrodingersboxqm.com
Purdy Birdy... Hey man... lets see some videos of you rebuilding that 10 bolt (any possibly any ways of strengthening it), and properly mounting/adjusting some rear control arms/PHB! If you're in CO, I'll bring over beer and help you film (Teach me to swap my stock rear gears to 4.10s :D )
+seth alton I am working on a complete rebuild tutorial with performance considerations. It will be the best video ever on complete rear end rebuilding.
Off topic kind of, but in your budget rebuild series you really made an effort to show how much better off you'd be buying a used engine. I was wondering if you felt the same way about rebuilding an engine with nothing wrong with it, like for a project car and you wanted to swap a motor or something and wanted to add a few bolt ons to it. Is it still not worth it? Or do you think that might be worth trying to do yourself?
+Bob Builder You are correct- in fact one of the points I was trying to make is a used engine is really a better option is most cases. About the only way you will be able to do a literal "budget" rebuild is if the rings and bearings are worn but no damage has occurred and the block itself is still in spec. In these cases, I can do the rebuild for around $500 with a standard rebuild kit.
+Schrodingers Box okay cool, thanks for the reply!
do you use GMs limited slip additive, or just whatever is built into aftermarket synthetics gear oil?
i use standard gear oil with LS additive.
OK cool. Hopefully it's not a big deal that I used valvoline 75w120 (or whatever the weird winter range it is) with additive built in. If so, I'll swap it out asap. (92 z28)
where u located
Awesome video....just a dude...whats the name or compound of the paint for the teeth contact pattern
Its called gear compound
@@SchrodingersBox very thankful, I have the same problem my spider gears are broken and the housing damaged, I will to replace all housing, Im very scaried to do by myself but thanks your video I will try... Thanks for share your knowledge
I presume the splines did not have any play in them. The only times I have seen a nuts strip out like that was when they came loose first creating a slide hammer action.
Andrew Thompson Yes that is exactly what I believe happened- well described!
I had worn splines on an early English FWD car once. The hub nut would come loose every few weeks. There was only a small amount of slack but nevertheless enough to unwind the nut.
I just had 4.10 gears installed in my 94 mustang gt and now I have a clunking while coasting (only). I read online and figured it's the shims. Do you think I might possibly be right? I am not a mechanic, but I believe I am as capable as the next guy; I just need some guidance. By the way Schrodinger, Great video!
What was your backlash measurement?
I don't think so, I doubt it. If it was, it probably was not written down.
sorry I am super tired... the backlash wasn't measured.
David Fannin Then I can't help sorry. You need to measure backlash if you suspect the shims.
When is rebuild video getting released
it’s on my website at www.Schrodingersboxqm.com
With the cost of all the materials and special tools required, I think my firebird is technically totaled. It's a shame really. It still runs like new, the body is straight, it has no rust, it's been well maintained for the 18 years I've had it, and it only has 104k miles on it. But then there's that slight humming noise between 45 and 65 under low throttle conditions...
WHat special tools? The rear end tools I use for an entire rebuild cost less than $200
awsommm
What is all that crap on the bearing at 45 seconds?
+Richard J Lebens Grease
15 inc/pounds? not 18,05?
I need you to fix my truck lol
Richard Cowtails Lol bring it over! I need more video fodder!
You also should not use an impact to set preload.
Why not? Please explain.
Schrodingers Box to easy to put to much on it with an impact.
Maybe if you are a beginner. If you practice you will have the ability to control the torque amazingly well. But If you still feel safer using a breaker bar I can't argue. How do you lock the pinion gear though?
Schrodingers Box I have the tool to bolt on the yoke.
It's better not to use the impact wrench to crush the crush sleeve.
Why not? And how else are you going to do it? with a breaker bar? how are you going to lock the pinion?
We have now seen lots of detailed shots of the inner workings of your car but I have never actually seen what it looks like...
+Andrew Thompson Some good shots of it in my video "2000 Trans am skip, miss or hesitation". Pretty good case study as well.
Alright, three pedals!
Lol- took me second to get that