RWD Differential Backlash Noise Diagnosis and Fix-Pt1
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- 2000 Pontiac Trans Am with Backlash "clunk" diagnosed. This video covers disassembly of rear end and component inspection.
Part 2 is HERE:
• RWD Differential Backl...
I gotta tell ya nothing bugs me more than product placement and little hidden subliminal advertising messages all over peoples channels. Thanks for not only providing us with great content but also keeping your channel add free!
+South Main Auto Repair By "add free" I infer that to mean attention deficit disorder free, right?
+Schrodingers it looked like it was really easy for you to take the carrier out? I had to beat mine out
Brian Triplett I just edited the prying out- proper preload dictates you would need to pry it out.
+Schrodingers Box oh OK yeah I've never done one before I wanted to see if I could do it, it was alot more intimidating than it is actually to replace
+Schrodingers Box how much harder is the front pinion and ring gear to do ?
Best explanation of how a rear end works and the parts involved I have ever heard. Great information here. Very well done! Thank you.
Nice video very helpful
This guy's awesome!! Very nicely explained, probably the best in depth description I've seen.
Thank you for putting in your time in things like this, we know it isn't easy & very time consuming.
Glad you enjoyed it!
SUBSCRIBED BOYS! By Far, This is the most comprehensive video on taking apart and inspecting a rear end I have ever seen/heard; Better yet, the most comprehensive and so well communicated video demonstrating anything vehicle related while using vernacular any grease monkey can understand. There wasn't any point I felt lost, I never had to quickly rewind and look further. Schrodingers ability to speak so well and so clear while using his hands as instruments animating and further highlighting preciseness matched to his words which further helps users understand exactly what he means. I dunno bro, well done, golf clap, and no joke I am halfway out the door going to get under my Silverado, rip apart my G80 and rebuild it and take a lot of time evaluating the pinion depth and aligning the shims ensuring the .0010 lash.... Man bro, I can't thank you enough. Long and short of it, Twas like he was reading the manual while doing all of this but he wasn't... OK, wish me luck, gonna take my 3.23 out and slap the 4.10 in to better align my LS1 swapped in there boyssss. Man Im stoked!
You are SO genuine of integrity with your trade.
Everyone wants to find a mechanic for their vehicle like you!
How can we determine if the pinion gear has become too worn; early on ;in the assembly process ?
Is it evidenced in the pattern in the painted ring gear? ; or upon the pinion itself ?
It will first evidence with high backlash reading. You'll also see the gear mesh pattern is not correct.
Schrodingers Box
Thank you.
I should conclude excessive pinion and ring gear wear if I find the races and bearings were good?
Erratic marks between the drive and coast side of the ring gear means a new set is in order?
The nut spins in the same direction as the forward driving which is clockwise - SO what happens when you hammer down on burn outs etc is the pinion yoke spins a split second before the nut so the nut stays in a suspended state then comes along which will back the nut off a hair each time you do a hard burn out at the track. The pinion nut only retains the amount of torque it takes to crush the crush sleeve on the pinion shaft. SO... Lock tight the nut with a NEW crush sleeve and in drag race application we stake the nut in place with a steel punch. THIS WILL NOT happen again if you do this. We come across this A LOT with Muscle cars and 4x4 trucks with BIG wheels and gobs of Torque.
Other notes in this video - IF you can pull the carrier out by hand with out a pry bar... THE CARRIER PRELOAD is NOT correct and tight enough. Shims will need to be tapped in with a shim driver or for back yard mechanics a piece of brass will work.
J D
Do you have any videos oh now to properly lock tight it?
Good stuff. Video really made differentials not that scary anymore. Just a matter of having the tools and time. Props sir!!
Basically half of a months worth of my college class in 1 video. This made more sense to me though. Awesome!
Oh, man!
I have the same problem with my 1997 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am WS.6.
It has like a clunking noise and I thought It was some of the u joints.
Man you're awesome.
I know this doesn't means too much but you have a new subcriber.
It means a lot!!!
@@SchrodingersBox hey, Man, I need your help.
I'm looking for the "support" that holds a support bar that comes from the transmission (driver side) and ends at the differential bolts (the two longer both that holds the dif housing [showed at the minute 3:50]).
What's the name for that part.
I hope you can help me.
Nice channel, Man.
A good mechanic is good diagnostion ,like yourself.
Dear Mr. Schrodinger Box:I had to go find my youtube password, not even sure if I had one, and subscribe to your channel. I don't think I've ever subscribed to a channel before, but I had seen your videos in the past and then started watching your differential videos.
Now for the constructive criticism: lighting and color.
Little parts from the diff just get lost in the shuffle in the black carpet mat on top of your Kennedy chest. I have had good luck with a pinkish cloth background when I take photos of things in the shop; maybe you could find some of those larger red shop rags that some pros have. Also, just lighting. The front diff on that Mercury Mountaineer was just... murky depths. Maybe an incdandescent trouble light or something. It's hard to have enough light.
That's about all I can say that is lacking around here! Excellent verbal presentation.
Great explanation of a rear diff! I'm diagnosing a diff whine, and this has been very helpful.
A rear diff whine very, very often is backlash related. A groan or moan (like a jet engine sound) is usually worn bearing related.
appreciate the info. I have not opened the diff yet. changed the fluid probably 1000 miles ago, but just started hearing the whine upon acceleration. so at minimum, I'm probably looking at a teardown and rebuild to check backlash and pattern?
No just check the backlash and let the results determine if you need a teardown and rebuild.
YOU ARE one in five million. I could never charge money for the things I did for people. I ended up poor, and they ended up with free stuff. I ended up feeling used, they ended up continuing to live a stress-free life. I look back on all the things I did for people, and look at where it got me- and I say, life sure isn't the way I thought it was. I always figured the angels and God was seeing my "freebee sacrifices, and I'd get repaid somehow. Oh well . . . here I am locked up in a room, going on two years. No life, no happiness, no satisfaction, no nothing. I'd be better off dead. But that's MY story. I really hope yours turns out better.
I am generally pretty selective in who I help. Besides, I get pretty well paid off this channel, so if all I get is a video off the work I do for them I still win in the long run.
I know the feeling, you are not alone. I'm not locked up, but live in what most people would call poverty, I am pushing 40 and have nothing to show for it, except dirty fingernails and beat up body. While still doing all kinds of different mechanical work for next to nothing just to keep a roof over my head. Life certainly isn't fair is it.
Very good on explaining the service cause I'm in the process on fixing my rear axle gears.
Great exclamation of how things work
Excellent video! I gained a lot of knowledge from this video!
Great video very detailed and informative I have an 04 gto with a harsh clunking noise in my rear most likely diff with slow accel and deccel sounds crazy but I’m going to go open it up and do an inspection
Good luck!
great explanation on each part and the rebuild must known informations .
Best diff video I've seen
great video, I too have a clunk, but on my 2.8 z3 its coming from the diff and it may be the yolk. hopefully its not a backlash issue!!... very informative thanks!!
I have the same problem, pinion nut worked loose, Ty 🤙🏻
When setting the diff up originally did you use a crush tube for pinion preload or a spacer?
A crush tube can distort allowing the nut to loosen, a properly set up spacer should not loosen.
If the crush tube has distorted just tightening the nut may over tension the bearing.
Thank you for your video. Gives me a lot of information that i needed.
5 Star video!! You are an outstanding explainer. Thanks for posting.
Great video, concise, clear and informative on the workings of this differential service.
Very cool vid man. I think the very first part of it may have solved my problem. I'm just going to tighten up the bolt and see if that fixes it
That's gotta be the cleanest differential fluid I've ever seen. When was the last time you changed it yesterday?
***** Lol right before track season- maybe a couple months.
I also have a Kennedy toolbox and tote. Cool!
Awesome Video, looking forward to the rebuild project. Thanks
Very well explained, I;ve got a nasty, grooooannnn on decel. on my 8.8" -3:73's, just paid $450.00 to address the howwwwwl & first test drive, Its exactly the same as when I dropped her off. So, I;m following along with you, already found my loose pinion nut! Jeez!
Again, well spoken, well explained, just a great "how to", can't wait for part 2!
love the video. i really liked the joke for the other channel. man you really have sence of humor!
Great video! Came across it unexpectedly. Learned a lot on a lesser known topic. Good exposure if I ever dive into a diff!
1:35 and 14:52 are absolutely the best inserts ever and Eric's channel SMA is excellent!
Sandbag1300 Hahaha yes I actually came across his channel by accident months ago and thought it was just excellent- I sure couldn't figure out why he wasn't getting the subs he deserved. It's good to see he's catching on like his channel should. It's top class.
Yeah your channel and south main auto are the only channel i watch. I use to watch ETCG but got tired of all the tool review. Keep on making awesome videos
How do you feel about the statement that the limited-slip differential (LSD) should have a little play in the tail section (on the cardan side)?
There is actually a specification for this. it’s called “lash” and varies depending on vehicle.
@@SchrodingersBox Have you dealt with a Camaro SS differential? Is it enough to replace the pinion gear and use rebuild kit to eliminate howl and backlash ?
my personal car is a 2000 Trans Am WS6. same diff and it’s an easy rebuild. just set the pinion lash to spec and replace carrier bearing and it will fix it.
Thanks for the vid. I have had a clunking in the rear of my K1500 silverado for a while now. I jacked it up today and the driveshaft moves at least 1" before it moves the wheels, with a nice klunk. does not look good.
Almost certainly minor- just adjust the pinion and I bet it will be perfectly fine.
Something just made me subscribe to Eric O at SMA, I wonder why!
Jonathan Dean Power of advertising haha
+Jonathan Dean me too.. do we have a reason why? or all we all passing through the RING OF FIRE?? .........
"Nemo! Newcomer of orange and white, you have been called forth to the summit of Mount
Wannahockaloogie to join with us in the fraternal bonds of tankhood."
+South Main Auto Repair oops! I think I just did too!
eh not much I work 16 hrs day so don't have much time to do anything but I did have my car inspect by tires plus they told me I need a center support bearing, also axle housing bushing and drive shafts coupler. I know what a drive shaft is but not to sure on the coupler or what it does.
I know this video is pretty old but I was curious if you could give some input on an issue I’m having.
When I’m accelerating everything works fine, but when I take my foot of the gas the rear end whines. I’ve tried to find any info on it and haven’t seen anything similar.
I would definitely start by measuring the backlash on the ring and pinion.
Great explanations. Great work
How much should this cost to get done at a shop? I have a 2007 mustang gt “ Standard five-speed transmission” and when I got it I didn’t notice any noise, not going to lie I’ve had my fun with some lunches and digging pretty hard, now when I’m driving normally and change a gear at lower rpms I hear and feel a bit of a rocking nose and feeling. I suspect after plenty of research that it’s a lose “yolk”
Thank you for this video, very detailed!
let me start by saying this 2 part video is a great easy to follow explanation. I have the exact differential, you mentioned at a previous time you replaced the differential carrier bearings. How did you remove them
They come out with the carrier and i cut them off and then press new ones on and re-shim.
Hey your buddy Eric at South Main Auto just covered the idea of marking U-Joint Caps and why you don't need to do it, they are all different pieces of metal machined at different times in different places, the only thing you need to do is clean up all surfaces before re-installation. If it's a 2 piece driveshaft then you DO need keep both pieces clocked in time, but the U-Joint Caps dont matter. Just thought I'd throw that out there...cuz nobody cares anyway......
MrTurdfergusen I'm not worried about the U joint caps as much as I am the same positioning within the yoke. Either way, probably doesn't matter but it just eliminates introduced variables if I suddenly develop vibration after the repair.
I have a loud high pitched whine that gets louder and higher as you speed up, and goes away when you take your foot off the accelerator.
I really wish I had the confidence to do what you are doing here.
Makes me wonder if the Jeep dealer's replace it all mentality is valid in my situation.
Just take it apart and check the backlash. Simple- it's just turning botls. No skill is needed to simply turn bolts.
on my Silverado today I got a feeling in front when I turned then I heard a release and its gone and drives fine a could it be moisture and the pass grabbing.thanks
Escalade 09 when slowing down and turn right rear left differential locks or veseverse! What can be causing problem? Should I remove locks gov? Thanks in advance!!
thanks I have the exact problem probably gonna check that nut tmr
The real question is what you run on the 1/4 Mile? haha
By the way I own a 99 trans am ws6 black as well.
Admit it, you just made this video to gloat about your perfect rear end rebuild over 100k miles ago.
If that were the case, why would I not have made the video at anytime BEFORE the pinion bolt loosened?
Best diff video on you tube.
Noise is mentioned in the title. What is the type of noise? I don't want to tear into it if the noise is not the noise I hear on deceleration. I have a time frame so I'm not expecting a response within that time frame. So this really was not informational for me being this vid was made 5 years ago.
Ummmm the time the video was made is irrelevant. What is you basic fundamental data? What is your differential backlash reading? What is the pinion gear tension? What basic data have you accumulated?
I have a 1982 toyota corrola two door five speed stick shift the rear end started whining about a year ago and the mechanic who has fixed everything on this car even the whole ac and heat system acts like he doesn't really want to mess with it. he said that he couldn't make the noise stop and he didn't see the point in replacing it as long as it still works. now as crazy as this sounds I actually kinda like the whining sound lol but i can't help but to think that someday its gonns tear up any ideas
Yes if you hear that sound it means the gears will experience excessive wear due to improper clearance. It also generates a ton of heat as well so the bearings will wear out faster. You really need a better mechanic.
I would figure that if you have a 3.40 gear ratio and you change it to 4.10 the engine is working less to get up to speed so why would gas mileage be less and does higher rpms equal more gas while at a less throttle position??
correct. higher RPM eats more gas especially at highway speeds. . there is always a trade off anytime you make a change on anything. more power means less fuel economy. higher gear ration means less top speed. always something!
when i put the car in reverse and drive it makes a clunking sound and i want to know why it does that? my car doesn't make no sound while i drive only when i put it in reverse and drive. what you mean by backlash
It’s either loose gears (backlash is too much) or engine/transmissions mounts or loose suspension/body/frame components.
Very helpful video thanks a lot .. How do you fix the pinion to the desired location? Is it by changing the location of the bearing? And it you want to reduce the backlash of the same old gear and pinion do you just reduce it or you have to use new ones bcuz the old are meshed together after running along time and by changing the backlash and preload the teeth may get damaged?
+MBA This is shown on my differential rebuilding video on my other channel
What are your thoughts about using a crush washer delete kit, aka a spacer and assortment of shims, as opposed to using the crush collar?
you need to use the crush collar. the crush collar provides the tension to secure the torque. washers won’t do that.
@@SchrodingersBox thanks for that it makes sense - if the other way was better I’m sure the mfrs would use it. I have never needed to mess with a diff before, but I may need to soon on one of my trucks. I am glad you posted a video on this as you always explain things so well.
Can a differential make high pitched squeak noise everytime you leave a stop light and every time you release the throttle
Not likely
I'm also having issues with my 2007 dodge charger sxt the rear end is making a horrible clunking sound which is very loud from the inside of the car I am kind convinced that it is the rear diff but I am also thinking it could be the shocks as well.
+Garry Adams So what diagnostics have you done?
Hi I watched the video and do you rebuilt rear ends o have a 2005 Pontiac gto 6 speed
i don't know if you'll ever get back to me, but i have a question. my rear end is making a low clicking/ticking noise only when i'm braking and slowing down. it seems like the noise only occurs below 30 mph. the best thing i can compare it to is the sound of a card lightly rubbing the spokes on a bike. any feedback would be appreciated, thanks.
What is your backlash setting?
Crush sleeve most likely compressed a little. It's a good idea to replace it with a solid sleeve when you do neutral drops and the like lol.
what is the ring of teeth next to the ring gear?...thanks...
so i need to set the backlash wow how do i do that
My Subaru has a bad rear end noise , I go to mechanics and they find nothing , when I do slow turns it makes a loud bang noise and almost moves the car a little
What is your backlash reading?
is it safe to guess that your next vid would be about understanding AC systems? :)
+Oros Criss Its a safe bet one of my next videos will be but not the next one.... that one is a work in progress as I want it to be very comprehensive since accurate diagnosis of AC requires a complete understanding of the system.
You make several mentions of red loctite in the video, but I don't see any heat application for parts removal. Was that edited out, or forgotten on last assembly?
Great video BTW, just wondering if we're missing the swearing/hammering parts?
Red Loctite doesn't need to be heated to remove it. You just use more torque.
This is an easy repair and disassembly. There is no hammering parts on something like this
From the Loctite website
"Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)."
My own experience largely concurs.
From my breaker bar and biceps- Red loctite does not need to be heated. Loxtite is an adhesive, not a weld.
would this be the cause of my jeep? everytime i let off the gas i hear a grinding noise on the rear end but its only noticeable at around 50 mph
Could be. Maybe not. What is your pinion to ring backlash dialed at?
Would appreciate some guidance on what may be nothing. I have a 2008 Mustang GT/V8 5 speed. I get no clunk or sound from standing start, shifting gears, all is tight. What I do get is if I am coasting at speed and give it gas (more then just smooth, like a push) , I get a feeling like its taking up slack before 100% there. Almost imperceptible but I can cause it to happen over and over if I coast at speed and pump the gas to shoot forward. I will check the u-joints bit could that be slack in the trans or rear? Thanks for taking a look
WHats your backlash reading?
haven't measured ..in fact, I just happened to notice this in the past week so I haven't had a chance to start debugging. But I will
I noticed that when you moved the driveshaft back and forth you obviously had play. Well I have the same play more or less but I have a Yukon grizzly locker. I get clunk when shifting out of park to drive and drive to park. Would the play be normal because of the locker? Been trying to hunt down this issue.
How much backlash is there?
Around 8 thou of an inch. To be fair it’s on a Toyota 8” rear. When the truck is first started in the morn..no clunk. When warmed..clunk. If I release the e brake, let go of brake then shift to drive it will sometimes not clunk. Maybe the locker is fully engaged and not between the locker teeth(no play). Also thinking the driveshaft could be bad because it has a rubber piece that the inner and outer driveshaft meet. The 3rd member is new from East Coast Gear Supply. Sorry for all the info. Btw..it has 4.56’s and I love that gearing!!
check the mounts.
Schrodingers Box Ok I will double check those. Thanks and Happy New Year!!
Damn good video man. You're awesome.
I have a 2001 Trans Am. I have some wiggle in both rear tires (that is when the car is on the ground I can grab the top of the either rear tire and pull it back and forth and there is noticeable “play”). Do you have a thought about what could be causing this?
replace the axle retention C clips in the carrier.
I really appreciate your quick reply! I am looking at buying this TA, which only has 60,000 miles on it for my son - something him and I can work on together. Is it common for these C clips to wear out and need replacing? I hope that is what it is because that seems like a very simple fix. Also, curious why you did not seem to think it could be the wheel bearing. Again thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Help!!!! Maybe you could help me. I have the same diff that you do. Mine is a torsen also. I love it. But I'm having a problem that is driving me nuts. I just put it back together for the 2nd time. This time it sounds worse. I was having a loud annoying noise on decel at 45mph or below. Interstate was ok but the noise was not as loud. Someone put a set of Richmond 410 gears before I bought it. The first time I tore it down i changed the pinion bearings and crush sleeve. Thinking that was the problem. Didnt change much. Now I just did the second teardown. I used the same pinion bearings but this time I used a crush sleeve eliminater kit. I checked my preload 20inch pounds. Set my backlash from I could tell was like 6 thousands. My gear pattern was pretty good. So I put it all back together knowing that it would be great. Wrong! It got worse. I drove it down my street. But at like 25mph it's got a loud noise coming from center of chunk. Which it does sound like a pinion bearing. But it's crazy because tha bearings are rather new. They spin smooth. I dont see any pitting. The races are smooth. Also my gears are fine no damage. Also I have a dip in my road. When i hit it that noise changes to a different tone when going in that dip. I was thinking of going back with some stock gears. But I really love the 410s. Do you have any information that help my problem? Thank you.
Start with the basics- what is your backlash reading?
@@SchrodingersBox I was trying to get the best reading I could. My set up is kind of junk. But the gauge was reading 2 to 3. I think I have more then that. It feels like maybe 4 to 6. I have 22inch shim pack on driver side of carrier and 20 inch pack on passenger. Also the car is a 2000 trans am 4 speed auto.
That doesn’t tel me what the backlash is. Maybe the pinion and ring backlash isn’t the problem though.
@@SchrodingersBox My dial indicator was reading 2 to3 thousands of back lash. But like I said I dont think that is correct. By the feel it feels like it's more. Today i tore it down again to see i could find anything. With the car in park and the rear brakes and rotors off the car I spun the axles. First passenger side. It had a little noise from the gears inside the torsen. But when I did the driveside it was alot louder. The axle bearings seem fine. I did check over that. The other strange thing is when I removed the carrier it basically just fell out. Which was odd because normally you should have to work it to get it out. Maybe this info can give you better idea on what I may have missed. Thanks for input.
There was mention of a Mountaineer differential video but I couldn't find it on your channel. Did I misunderstand or am I blind :)
Nate Rowe It's called "drivelink clunk diagnosis- your support helps others" or something to that effect. Searching the channel for that will bring it right up for sure.
Schrodingers Box Sweet, thanks for the video & thanks for replying.
south main auto huh lmao!!😂 i like to watch that chanel bro😊
Now i know how to do it, thank you.
do you use synthetic gear lube in your diff? would explain the new looking internals after 100k
+Rhage73 I only ever use regular dino oil and lube throughout the car but I change the diff oil about once a year because of my driving habits. I added synthetic this time however because it's all the parts store had available in 75W-90.
Schrodingers Box good stuff's love your vids very informative
excellent info
Awesome video
i never change my gear oil since i got the car in 2011 maybe i need to do that
My car is awd I hear rumbling noise in the diff where would I buy a rebuild kit
Depends- what is your backlash and bearing clearance reading? How much bearing play is there?
You need data first
IF I swap an open carrier for an LS carrier on a Ford(pretty much the same as yours), swap the ring gear, new bearings, do you think I have to remove the pinion gear because the pattern is upset? Or would I just have to deal with backlash and shims. Would rather not pull the pinion.
Rings and Pinions are ALWAYS sets. Swapping a ring without matching the pinion is going to result in a noisy ride at best and a short-lived repair at worst.
thanks...going to use my old ring on the new LS carrier. Seems it would be almost a drop in. Am I very wrong?
alb12345672 It doesn't work that way unless the same pinion is also used. You can swap the ring gear out on the carrier and use the matched pinion and it will be possible to calibrate it. However it seemed to me you planned on just replacing the ring on the carrier and use a new or mismatched pinion. You'll simply never get the pattern within spec in that case.
Hope that answers your question.
Yeah, the original ring and pinon would stay, only difference is a drop in carrier. From what I researched there is a 200$ kit to do exactly what I want, from Ford. Some may choose it to repair a bad limited slip, add the carbon fibre clutches as an upgrade, or like myself add that functionality. The carrier is bare and requires side bearings, and your old ring gear, or a new r and p. Only shimming and backlash adjust is supposedly required,
Schrodingers Box
thanks for the great information
Amazing video
Was the sound a lot like a card in the spokes of the bike?
Not in the least.
Sir my bmw e60 m5 makes grinding sound on tight slow turns, I changed oil and added friction modifier , and 20 circles even , but no luck , can you suggest anything what should I do
What is your backlash reading?
@@SchrodingersBox Sir i have not checked th3 backlash yet , but I have heard in the forums that if you give 20 circle each side , and add FM, it will vanish , but th3 sound still persist , I will check the backlash and revert to you bro
@@salmaniftikhar6583 I had this problem in my truck. I used a standalone bottle of FM and gear oil to make the noise go away. Don't use an oil that says FM is already included in the oil.
Very informative!
i have a 1999 Camaro SS SLP with an Auburn rear... i hear a clunk sound only when turn and moving slow.. not when driving straight... what could it be?
anything. take it apart and diagnosed it.
or could it be my rack and pinion
could be. What about maybe doing some diagnosis?
not rack its ring and pinion
what was it?
Hey good video as usual.
how long can you drive with that problem?
not very long. eventually the differential will fail and it will likely destroy it.
Where is the full rebuild video?
on my other channel Schrodingers box Quantum Mekanix
Ya well the pinion spins the oposite way of the discipline when torq accours so it like having an impact trying to lie in the nut every time
correct! It is always “trying” to loosen.
when are you going to do the rebuild video. been waiting for it.
Have had it up on my pay channel for 2 years.
Is it on the torsion differential?
Hi mate.
I halve expected a limited slip diff in there. I think that car has been marking it's spot, the seal has not been working all that well on the diff. The back of the car is quite wet.
Strange that you would undo that nut. It must have had a fault in it from new. One does not strip the thread without the splines being ruined as well.
Marcel.
Marcel Timmers The nut is far, far softer than the splines- probably intentionally. But the splines and threads were perfectly fine.
Schrodingers Box you must have stopped at the right time, to save those splines....
I love SMA
Good video..helped alot!!
Great vid thanks
What size is the pinion nut
No idea.
it sounded like pulsating from tracton control no lights
I was wondering if anyone had a good brand and kit to rebuild the rear end on the same car, 2001 Firebird Trans Am Ws6 5.7L ... im not sure what i exactly need
I did this on my car using parts from a place called Yukon Gear and Axle. Complete kit and direct fit.
Schrodingers Box you never did the rebuild video on the rwd axel did u?
@@AllInOne-bo5vp Yes I did- it's on my pay channel. 4 part step by step series.
Schrodingers Box whats your pay channel? Thanks for replying happy thanksgiving !!
I also have a question, when i drive over bumps i hear a loud knocking in my rear and when i drive on 4,5,6th gear i hear a whine in the rear, also when i push inward on my rear passenger tires i hear a know sound, that is why I wanna rebuild my rear end but honestly idk what is causing all these symptoms any idea???????
theres your problem lady