A big "thank you" to Chuck, a very talented machinist, who helped me put together the test approach. He gets credit for everything that went well, and I get the credit for any mess ups. Sorry it's taken me a year to get to this one but wanted to get it right the first time. Thanks again Chuck! Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order): Bosch: amzn.to/32h9Kfh Craftsman: amzn.to/2EoL7Fu DeWalt: amzn.to/32dr7hl Harbor Freight (Warrior): bit.ly/2CLXwTg Harbor Freight (Bauer): bit.ly/2Qb1ece Ryobi: amzn.to/3gjOcE7 Walmart (HyperTough): www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-15-Piece-High-Speed-Drill-Bit-Set-3431/196625192 Milwaukee: amzn.to/31gwxIU Metabo: amzn.to/3j4dcAR Masterforce: www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits-accessories/masterforce-reg-titanium-twist-drill-bit-set-21-piece/5332/p-1497525447647.htm Black & Decker: amzn.to/2Yo3YYc
My 8 year old son stopped to watch this video with me while i had it on. He asked what you were doing. I told him you were testing drill bits for me to see which one was best so i dont have to do it. He thought that was very kind of you. I am very thankful myself for all your videos. They are very informative and save me time. Keep on doing what you love my friend! We all love it!
These kinds of unbiased tool tests done by Project Farm are priceless to me. They cover tools (like the drill bits in this video) that span a range of prices, so I can pick a brand and level of quality that matches my pocketbook for the particular tool I need. Sometimes I'm looking for a tool that I only need to use occasionally and sometimes I'm looking for something that I'll be using everyday. Either way I can find the answers I'm looking for here. A big Thank You to Project Farm!
This video was a lot of good work, but completely missed out on two of the more important aspects, TOOL GEOMETRY, and WHAT the drill material PURPOSE is for. The ONE feature not emphasized was the "split point" feature. This one aspect alone IS important. The other geometry feature is the drill point angle. Standard drill point angle is 118°. Alternative angle is 135° often used for harder materials. Also important is "web thinning" and "rake". This is a matter of simply looking at the tool bit set BEFORE purchasing. None of this was even mentioned in this video. Then the drill material was skipped over with no explanation ....yet it seemed that "cost" was more important. Well, if you're not going to provide any information about drill material or "coating" ....and in particular "SHARPENING" .....then this video is fundamentally only for people who need a drill every five or six years .....for wood. .
@@ProjectFarm I've been working with metals for over 50 years and I'm also a mechanical engineer, which helps a lot to understand the problems. I have several solutions, not found in the books, that I'm willing to share for free. You have much broader reach that I have the time to develop. How can I contact you?
I just wish there wa a note that list the best tool, without having to rewatch the whole video again. I know a lot of mechanic that just go with the brand name for all their tools. Some times a different brand might be better.
Really classy comments here gang. PF is for this new homeowner an absolute blessing. I feel assured when I make purchases for paint, drill bits, ratchet straps, my wife's Bosch icon wipers, that I bought the best. How do you place a value on that knowledge? Thanks PF, and you guys for being great.
As a blacksmith who make knives and tools with hardened steel, I figured out which bits were best by trial and error. Bosch is definitely my go to for most medium to high carbon steel and DeWalt are the ones I use for mild. Even though they are the best, they do wear out pretty quickly when you're doing a lot of hardened steel. Two things help... Don't let them get too hot and use something like a drill doctor to keep them sharp. I have saved tons of money on bits using my $50 Drill Doctor. You won't get factory results, but you can definitely sharpen old bits into very functional bits. When all of that fails, you bust out the carbide bits, which are about $15-$20 a bit. They will go through anything...
I know this is an old comment, but if you are still around, I have a project where I need to modify some table saw wings to fit with a table saw with different hole spacings. The wings and table are cast iron. Should the Bosch work well for that project?
Experience offhanding the tool is the best twist bit sharpener. I bought a whole box of bits for a buck and boy did I get some practice then. But you do have to know what you're doing. If you don't dress the wheel for instance you're using you're done then before you've even started etc. You can't sharpen a twist drill very good on some hooped out rounded over and worn up grinding wheel. They need to be flat and sharp.
@@wheelstandr OMG, now at night, I'll hear Todds voice and all the familiar phrases. Maybe he needs to make a bunch of sound bites. Ring tones, or entry greeting.
@Project Farm You are one of the best and most worthwhile channels on YT or any other video site for that matter. Merry Christmas to you, your family, and all the subscribers to Project Farm!
As a machinist no one would be more likely to criticize this video. All I can say is thanks and you did a great job with the test. You also provided good drilling advise.
Thank you very much! I've held off on this video for over a year since I wasn't happy with the original test setup. A very talented machinist "Chuck" visited the shop and helped a lot. He gets credit for everything that went right and me for everything that isn't. Thanks again!
As a machinist, you know that a full pilot hole should be drilled prior to drilling with larger bits. This was the only criticism I have, as most home shop do it your self types are not aware of this practice. Also, chip breaking, but again, I revert back to the general do it your self type. Otherwise, it shows which bits will handle "abuse" better than other brands, which will help the weekend warriors. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga exactly especially larger bits pilot holes are recommended but if your rushing or are lazy as you said shows what bits will take the abuse better
The Dewalt drill bit's seamed to do pretty good, Since Dewalt has so many kinds I'd like to see a drill bit comparison with black oxide, titanium, black and gold and cobalt bits all compared. Dewalt has all of those types available. I'd also like to see a drill bit comparison between Dewalt pilot point and split point with both drilling speed and bit life. Thanks for all your hard work.
I requested this test a year ago and I'm glad it finally came. I used to be a machinist and I broke alot of bits in my day. Learned alt from this video. I bought a ryobi and dewalt drill bit kit this black Friday. I was going to return the dewalt. Not anymore lol
Hi. I bought an oscillating sander (280x110mm pad size) from Rioby years ago. It lasted 20 minutes. 20 f...g minutes ! I returned to the shop, got a refund, bought a Bosch, and went back to work. Personal note : Rioby, although japanese, is worse than LIDL, a german hard discounter. Never buy anything from Rioby again.
@@CaptainDangeax Good to know, I had been contemplating buying some Ryobi gear but after seeing how shoddy their drill bits are, i'll make a hard pass.
Yes, after destroying countless drill bits in my youth, I finally learned how to drill metal about 20 yrs ago, high force, low speed, lube, back off the pressure right at the end of the cut. Works every time.
I worked in a machine shop drilling holes all day, every day, day in, day out. After a few months you get pretty good at it. I had this funny way I'd wrap my whole arm in the spider to really get some force.
OK this is the 5th video thats popped up for me from you. I know I'm 9 months late here, but hear me out. I can't get over the level of ingenuity you apply with setting up these tests. I'm impressed by the thoroughness of your performance to cost comparisons as well. I'm subscribing and liking and hope your channel grows more so you can keep helping us out with valuable real-world product analysis as well as maybe getting sponsored or some kind of compensation for coming out of your own pocket to buy all these items. Thank you for your work!
Try this same test with non "retail" high end drill bits sets like Triumph, Irwin, Matco Hyper-Step, Chicago latrobe, and Norseman. Also, drill speed is a factor of split point chisel edge design/relief and web thickness. You can always make a drill bit cut faster with a thinner web, but the question is how many of those holes is it going to last.
I'm just glad you mentioned some "High end drill bits" because.. I was looking for something better than the big box brands... and it was driving me up the wall, trying to find straight forward reviews for great drill bits. I bought these Norseman... glad I accidentally picked a winner? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZH2SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've just recently found your channel- OUTSTANDING!! Your ability to convey a multitude of testing variations without occupying an hour or more to do so is impressive. Thanks a lot for your efforts!
@@ProjectFarm your videos have become a must watch for me. I have huge respect for the scientific approach you take to testing products. As a result of this video, I have been looking for the DeWalt Black-Oxide bits. It seems that they have replaced them with "Black & Gold" (for example...... look for product DW1177 - used to be Black Oxide and is now Black & Gold). I can't find any information on the purpose for the change, and more importantly I now don't know how the Black & Gold will perform compared to the Black Oxide. Do you have any idea? Thanks!
Thank you very much! That's always my goal. No sponsors (other than generous patrons), not trying to sell anything I test, just provide viewers with an honest test. Thanks again!!
You saved me hours of time. The Bosch drill bits are the only bits that would get through a bolt I had to drill out on my VW Cam Timing Bolt. They are amazing.
I just bought the DeWalt set a few weeks ago. Since I'm outside the US, it's time consuming and expensive to import tools and hardware. It's really nice to know I accidentally made a good choice!
You better check. Dewalt also has cheaper chinese rebrands. Make sure you bought the "expensive" dewalt and not the cheap line. The cheap line is crap and expensive, you better just buy some chinese brand that looks good at least in appearance.
Steve S Please check out a company called Drill America. I have one of their full carbide sets. It was about $980- BUT and this is huge. I’m not constantly buying more and more bits because of wear and breakage. I’ve used the crap out of the 3/8s, 1/2 and 5/8s bit through AR500 steel. The only draw back really is I had to buy a diamond wheel to sharpen them. But I can do a whole armored SUV before having to resharpen a bit. So the initial cost ends up saving me time and money in the long run.
Mr. Victory, Agreed, I never knew the correct way to use a drill either. One thing is for sure , Project Farm is more educational than any other teaching video that I've seen Just amazing
@Moto Guzzi This is the first I've heard of it as well. I've always been taught to let the tool do the work and I've broken more than a few drill bits by putting too much pressure on it (usually drilling small holes through metal) so I would apply moderate pressure and let 'er eat!
I know about it but sometimes its kind of hard when drilling without a drill press. I though i wasnt putting enough force and later on when i bough a new similar sized drill bit i discovered it wasnt me, the drill bit was just crap and the newer one drilled through no problem. :/ If you have good quality drill bits then yeah, follow the sugested speeds and feeds, but otherwise its kind of hard. Best advice would be just try to keep the chips are a good size and constand. The edge is supposed to cut slices not make metal dust.
This video was amazing. I assumed there would be few brands, one or two holes each and a long-winded explanation for each. You were thorough, quick, to the point, and tested quite a decent amount of brands on multiple materials. That's how these type of videos should be made!
James Smithers he left some important stuff out in my opinions, compared to what he does in his older videos, and he seemed sorta biased toward dewalt lol
This is a great comparison and as a starter guide is unmatched. One thing you might want to look into if you ever revisit this subject is the difference between 118 degree and 135 deg points. The 118 or split points are a better geometry for metals while the 'regular' 135 are more of a general purpose bit. You do great work, man, and i totally respect that you never take sponsorships.
Actually, you are 100% incorrect on the drill point angle. Let me repeat .....100% INCORRECT. The very first drill bit in this video is a 118° and very clearly shows no split point. 118° IS the standard "GENERAL PURPOSE" geometry put on most drill bits. These bits generally do NOT have split points. Split point is an added geometry, only of value to those people who know they want it/need it, and don't have a drill grinder that can put this feature in. The 135° is NOT the "regular" point angle. It is an angle that is better-suited to drilling harder materials. It too, is not "split pointed" as standard. There are some bits that DO have a split point, but you have to request it or find products that are already "split pointed". This is the one DOWNSIDE of RUclips. People who make statements, sounding as if they really do know what they are talking about ....yet they've got everything wrong or backwards .....and some people reading the garbage, think they have just learnt something......and now they've got it all wrong. SOLUTION: LOOK UP AND INVESTIGATE FROM MORE THAN ONE SOURCE. If someone has got it wrong, then the next source will probably reveal a problem ....then check another source that is more of an "authority". .
Been shopping for a decent set of twist drills for years, but I never knew what I was actually getting for my hard-earned bucks. One of the most useful videos you've published - at least to me. Happy to support this channel via Patreon. Thanks again, PF!
i've had a set of the dewalt bits for a couple years. they've survived farm "fabricating" and wood shop really well. Tough box to take care of them too
I've had a set of dewalt drill bits and driver bits for years now, and the box they come with is definatly better than the clear hard plastic ones even if I always grab the wrong box lol.
Would love to see a test of smaller drill bits. Specifically, how well they resist breaking. You know, all the empty spots in your drill bit sets ;) Maybe using your torque gauge to see when they break. Great stuff, as always!
If anyone is doing small-hole drilling ....in metal, ....ferrous ....they need to educate themselves specific to kind of work and learn a lot more about tool geometries, coolants, and have the right kind of equipment as well. It is very common for a large full drill set to have the bottom three or four sizes to be empty. These sizes ARE very delicate and they DO break very easily, as careful as anyone can be. IF a person does this kind of drilling regularly, they usually purchase a dozen each of these sizes. .
Thank you for what you're doing on RUclips! You're a reference for us because we know that you won't be sponsored or something.. Keep it up! Love from Switzerland
ALMOST ANY hss drill bit over 1/4 inch ( small dia bits break) will last a lifetime. I am a machinist & first week of machinist school was devoted to sharpening. Drills,lathe cutters,milling etc.I am 63 years old & i have the same set of 3/8 to 1/2 inch set for home use since i was 18 years old.sure some have gotten pretty short but still all there & because i learned in machinist class how to sharpen.Most guys throw away a drill when it gets dull & that is wrong. Its sort of like throwing away a (3 man) master Henkle chefs knife when it gets dull.
Had to drill into a serious suspension bolt that I sheared the head off of and none of my drill bits were cutting it. Car (Audi 😓) has been sitting for weeks because I can only work on it on the weekend (when it isn't raining 🙄). Bought the DeWalt set ($15!!) after watching this and within minutes, all done, bolt out. Thank you *once again* for your service 🙏
Hello ReydioTube , Can I ask you about the process that proved successful for you to get the bolt out ? I see that you used a drill bit but what other steps / solutions tools were required to solve the problem of the sheared off (stuck bolt) ?
I know that having the right tools gets things done faster and efficient . I wish they had videos like this one when I was out there spending $ on tools that would not endure, your giving everyone a hell of shortcut. Great job👍
I bought the Bauer set based on what I saw in this video, and I LOVE them! Thank you for this review, very informative. I work as a state inspector and I can't tell you how many times I have had to drill broken off tag screws out. The Bauer bits cut through like butter with little to no flex even on the smaller sizes.
The last minute of this video should be watched by anyone wanting to use a drill press. Very informative video well done, and that last bit (no pun intended) of advice at the end is outstanding. Great work keep it up.
Great review. I just bought a drill press and went through several brand new 1/2” bits while drilling .125 galvanized tube steel. I had no idea my technique or lack thereof was the problem. Thanks for the tips.
Best tip i can give for drilling metals. Thicker materials get lots of downpressure and low speed. Thin stuff can run at warp 10. When your chip is really long maintain your speed and pressure. If you get little needles you need more downpressure.
I drill through a lot of stainless steel and I periodically dip my bits in water to keep them cool. I believe if they get to hot it ruins the heat treatment on them, thus making them dull quicker. A little cutting oil too. Mine seem to last quite a while.
@@MrTruckerf I don't know... I find if I really push into the drill I can get a hole in a fraction of the time as going at a reduced speed. Maybe at home you wanna keep your bits lasting forever but on a job site time is money. Cheap madtercrafts bits and push like hell. When the .05 -.10 cent bit dulls or breaks, toss it and grab the next. This is the reality on a job site no?
Hi, as someone who uses drill bits at the most once a month, i find to take it slow and easy, some times you need a small push, but i tend to look at the amount of swarth / shavings coming off the job and use that as a guide to my success. Pushing strains both the drill and the bit, sub standard drills with plastic gears will get hot and cheap drill bits will bend / break. So yes i keep my eye on the machinery. Many years ago i worked in a factory that made electrical switches / contact goods ( one of the top 3 components supplier in Australia ) in 240 volt connectors ( plus the larger amperage items in switchboards and commercial environments), Almost all of the work was in brass and every machine had a chart on drill and tap sizes and also the recommended speed and a separate chart on how to set up the belts and pulleys as every machine was set up with multiple belt drives and different sized pulleys of the motor. Regards George
Heat is the bit's enemy. It seems counter-intuitive, but you need to get the job done in a timely manner to keep heat from growing too rapidly. Keep it lubed, too.
I would love to see one done on grease. Such as RED N TACKY, SCHAEFER'S, etc. Thank you. Your videos have been solving a long standing problem of knowing what is good.
I have that same drill press and i had no idea you could change the RPMs... It was handed down to me. I learn something everytime i watch this channel.
@@ProjectFarm Cleveland also a good brand. As a machinist I assume all the drills were HSS high speed steel except for the Bosch which was cobalt steel. No drills are made of titanium ( just marketing) There are drills with TiN coating which is Titanium nitrite which is very hard and resists wear.
The channel always provides a wealth of knowledge and provides a library of information. With winter around the corner, an idea for another project is battery chargers / maintainers / trickle chargers. What is more appropriate for different conditions. If your are storing vehicles over winter, a car, is it best to just disconnect the battery, use a maintainer that can be just clipped on and keep the battery in optimum condition without having to disconnect the battery and lose any previous settings. The effect of different maintainers/ trickle chargers for the multitude of different battery chemistries.
Tie down straps that are easy to use and will hold a load down. I can't find a quality tie down strap that will last for years, not rust or go down hill as you use them, what brand is best PF?
are you talking 1" or 2"? I am a flatbed trucker and I use Kinnedyne 2" ratchet straps. These straps see 100,000 miles of hard use, rain, snow and salt, year round. A periodic squirt of wd40 and they work for yrs. If you are looking for 1", try US Cargo online, they carry all kinds of straps for the trucking industry.
Take a stroll underneath billboard signs... particularly near major highway in rural locations... the ones the sign guys use to stretch the fabric are real nice and they air mail them to the ground... most never get picked back up.. just sit there in the weeds... only drawback is that I haven’t found one over 8ft long
Please put human feces mixed with urine to test as engine oil. There is a legendary story that a guy was stranded in a desert due to engine running out of oil and he used his own feces mixed with urine as engine oil and got him out of trouble.
Dude iam so glad u brought up the speed vs pressure while drilling.. I apply this to basically everything I drill ** but I learned this as a first year apprentice slow and steady +heavy wins the race. Have drill bits last decades
Did you get past "first year apprentice"? Cutting speed does not change. It's based on the material and if cutting fluid is used or not. How much "pressure" you use is up to you and the condition and geometry of the drill bit. .
@@hibahprice6887 I would simply use an metal oil can and pump a little bit of oil and water to the drill. Done that alot of times at home. And you don't use coolant for wall drills.
Your videos are so helpful and informative, and this one is no exception! No nonsense testing, no distracting music, packed with the salient info right to the point... Creative and thoughtful testing methods to ensure consistent conditions, and now... You even have an alphabetical product guide to find videos fast! This is brilliant - I so wish other RUclipsrs with myriad vids would do this! Thank you so much for all you do!
John Lee. It seems like no matter what bit set that I’ve bought, I always go back to Dewalt. They just seem tougher. Same goes for the philips, flat, and square bit Dewalt sets.
Most all the places you go have coded. Drill bits coated drill bits are no good. You have to get pure Cobalt. Drill bits Where the Cobalt is through the whole Steel? Of the drill bit the coded drill bits Do not hold up.
Diablo makes a good Sawzall blade I don't know if Diablo makes a hole saw But I know the Diablo. Sawzall blades hold up really good And I Diablo. Skill saw blades are the best. That's all I use is Diablo blades. On my Sawzall and my still sauce. They last the longest.
I looked it up on the internet. They do make Diablo. Hole saw I know I've use there. skill saw blades and Sawzall blades they are the best on the market. They last a long time. Much longer than other brands. If I did check this out online and they do make Diablo. Hole saws I just Googled. Diablo hole saws And it appeared on the internet. Hope this helps you.
It would be great to see a test on circular saw blades for maybe a 10” or 7 1/4” saw. I use those almost every day and would love to see which brand of blades is best!!
The new diablo blades that just came out, diablo was probably the best before too. Its between diablo and makita for best wood blades from what I've seen and used.
I have been trying out different Phillips bits for my drills and have been finding that most bits are crap. I would like to see a good bit comparison on who has the best bits.
I have been using Wiha brand torx bits for about three years now. They are a German company and their bits last about 20 or 30 times longer than the Dewalt/Irwin/Craftsman homeowner type stuff. Top of the line durability at a good price. I'm using the standard #8 torx for removing 250 or 300 stainless screws before I change out. I was twisting or stripping out the cheap ones about every 10-20 screws. www.wihatools.com/torx-tools/bits/torx-insert-bits/torx-insert-bit-contractor-grade-30-pack
Testing those will be problematic because the quality of the screws influences them a lot. There are hardened and unhardened screws. A good bit can somewhat handle a wrong size screw. Will it still work if the screw is rusty in the slot? After too little down force and camming out, is the bit still usable? Will it work in a Pozi screw in a pinch? So many intriguing questions...
D S, I have been using mostly Milwaukee and DeWalt drive bits, not only with a cordless screwdriver or impact driver but also inserted in a quarter- inch nut driver handle. Both brands seem to have good quality bits in terms of the hardness of the material, but they differ between each other, and certain screws will work better with one brand of bit versus the other. Indeed, I have 2 different styles of 3" long DeWalt Phillips bits (the type with the yellow, rod-shaped "torsion zone"), one marked "P1", the other marked "PH1", and although the drive bit tips look same ( angles, width of the ribs, etc) there is a pretty significant difference in how snugly they fit a #1 Phillips screw.
I love the videos, and definitely refer to them when making purchases. My only (weak) criticism is that I prefer to see objective measures rather than subjective descriptions. The wear on the bits, for instance, could have been measured using a sharpness test - maybe a low-load twist into wood to see if it still grabs.
I thought 10 to 20 holes per bit should have been drilled with a chart per bit showing time from first to last. I can see where that would be a huge amount of work but I still think that should have been done as drilling one hole is no indication of the bits ability to last and stay sharp. I am a machinist and use high quality cobalt bits but was considering a cheaper set I could fit into my bit driver, not just my drill. I think this will help with that but only so much.
What kind of wood? Balsa wood? Why not see what the edge will cut before drilling anything. Maybe it will cut paper. Do you want to be objective or do you want to be subjective???? What would you expect the sharpness to be if you were drilling into cast iron? Researching and educating oneself is highly recommended. This video was a lot of good work, but completely missed out on two of the more important aspects, TOOL GEOMETRY, and WHAT the drill material PURPOSE is for. The ONE feature not emphasized was the "split point" feature. This one aspect alone IS important. The other geometry feature is the drill point angle. Standard drill point angle is 118°. Alternative angle is 135° often used for harder materials. Also important is "web thinning" and "rake". This is a matter of simply looking at the tool bit set BEFORE purchasing. None of this was even mentioned in this video. Then the drill material was skipped over with no explanation ....yet it seemed that "cost" was more important. Well, if you're not going to provide any information about drill material or "coating" ....and in particular "SHARPENING" .....then this video is fundamentally only for people who need a drill every five or six years .....for wood. . .
I enjoy the engineering and systems just to perform the tests. The test results are the icing on the cake. 👍👍 Thank you for doing this for all of our benefit. Happy Holidays to you and your family. God Bless
The bit that drills best drills longest. Unless it just wasn't ground so swift at the factory. Which does happen. A lot of this test was just pitting different grinds against each other. What you really need to do is a hardness test on each bit.
As usual, simply great! That said, M42 cobalt is thought by many to be too brittle for hand-held drilling. I have various sizes I’ve collected over the years, mostly Irwin brand. I’ve never broken one, but I’m religiously careful when using my M42 alloy cobalt bits hand-held. If you ever redo this test I’d appreciate an M35 cobalt set being included. M35 alloy is considered by many to be a better alloy for Hand-held drilling. Less brittle but not quite as hard as M42 alloy.
Do you think using liberal oil or cutting fluid would prevent the chipping of the Cobalt? I've used Cobalt bits dry, and I think it's the dry drilling where the metal basically scrapes and chips. He does a review on this channel of cutting fluid, and "Magic Tap" was one of the best ones, as well as CRC chlorinated paraffin cutting oil, which both had really strong lubrication abilities. The lubrication would probably eliminate all the chipping, but it's just a guess.
@@Ritalie I prefer the product “Tap Magic”. It’s simply awesome for my drilling and tapping chores. Lastly, it’s a sad fact many of today’s bits have an awful grind. I often sharpen my new bits before critical use. I find a Drill Doctor makes quick work of both Steel and cobalt alloys. I’ve uses one since the 80’s. I’d say 80% of my drill index has been resharpened, many bits having been sharpened before first use. Regarding Tap Magic: I've been using Tap Magic since the mid 1980's. At that time there were only two formulations, Aluminum, and Ferrous (steel/iron). The proof is actually hand-tapping a few holes with Tap Magic, dry, and other tapping lubricants. The outcome is remarkably in favor of Tap Magic.!
@@Tool-Meister I didn't know if those drill sharpeners were actually useful. I better buy one. So yes, Tap Magic. I think I said it backwards. That's one of the very best cutting fluids because it has very high lubricant properties. In the tests on this channel it performed best.
M35 has 5% Moly, 6.4% Tungsten, and 5% Cobalt compared to 9.5% Mo, 1.5% W, and 8% Co of M42. I think M35 is harder and more brittle than M42 because of higher Tungsten it has, but also M35 has lower heat resistance due to lower Cobalt content.
They have really good wipers too. Whereas the 'store brand' (RainX garbage) lasts maybe 3-6 months before shredding on ice, a Bosch wiper will last for a good 2-3 years. Sure, they're about twice as expensive but I don't have to worry about replacing them.
I would love to have seen some measurements as to the accuracy of the hole sizes as well! If there is ever a next drill bit video it might be interesting to see!
Drilling an axle flange on a 6 ton truck was eating each bit I put to it. Ran out of bit when down to the auto parts store & found a Century Cobalt Drill Bit it did the trick for me. I have gone thru several sets of the Dewalt Gold. I may need to slow down my drill & add more weight, Thanks for the teat.
Hey there, I've got an idea for a video. Could you test different undercoating materials like POR 15, Fluid Film, etc? I'd be very interested in that. Thanks again for another great video!
I bought from Home Depot a set of 30 titanium coated Ryobi set of 21 sizes. It was several years ago. Some of the bits were sharpened with a backwards chisel. That is, it looked like it was meant to cut with the drill in reverse but it wasn't. I found this in Harbor Freight drill bits too. Of course, they don't cut at all (except maybe in soft wood but not well).
As with many things the intended usage is everything. For plastic and aluminium the cheap ones will go on forever. They aren’t hard to sharpen either, just grind the inside of the flutes to refresh the edge.
This guy is singlehanded changing the lives of lots of dads out there across the world helping them chose the best equipment and tools like no one ever has done before… this is a wet dream for us handyman…
You should test all the screwdriver BITS that go into a power drill/driver tge cheap ones are always bending and rounding off for me bit I haven't tryed the good ones by dewalt ect thanks
was going to make the same suggestion ... I've have had various bit failures over the years and would love to save some time and money on my next purchase
Ive tried several. I Think drill bits and driver bits dewalt last along time. Rest either stripped out or twist way to easy costing more in the long run. But i do more wood working than metal or steel. what little i use in metal/steel ive never had a issue.
A big "thank you" to Chuck, a very talented machinist, who helped me put together the test approach. He gets credit for everything that went well, and I get the credit for any mess ups. Sorry it's taken me a year to get to this one but wanted to get it right the first time. Thanks again Chuck!
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Bosch: amzn.to/32h9Kfh
Craftsman: amzn.to/2EoL7Fu
DeWalt: amzn.to/32dr7hl
Harbor Freight (Warrior): bit.ly/2CLXwTg
Harbor Freight (Bauer): bit.ly/2Qb1ece
Ryobi: amzn.to/3gjOcE7
Walmart (HyperTough): www.walmart.com/ip/Hyper-Tough-15-Piece-High-Speed-Drill-Bit-Set-3431/196625192
Milwaukee: amzn.to/31gwxIU
Metabo: amzn.to/3j4dcAR
Masterforce: www.menards.com/main/tools/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits-accessories/masterforce-reg-titanium-twist-drill-bit-set-21-piece/5332/p-1497525447647.htm
Black & Decker: amzn.to/2Yo3YYc
Try making a cylinder out of JB weld
No industrial brands??????????????? Only homeowner junk????????????????
Dude you're a legend. You need your own TV show.
@@JayzBeerz Agreed!!!
I would love to see a test on circular saw blades! I’m a construction worker and use them almost every day!
You ever wondered what dads watch when everyone else is sleeping? Well look no further because this is it
Glad to hear! Thanks for watching!
Well ummm just because everyone is asleep and I'm watching this doesn't make it true. Maybe I watch this when they are awake too lol
I’m 16, but not a dad lol
Levi V good for you!
Hey I ain't no dad, and I watch this daily lol
My 8 year old son stopped to watch this video with me while i had it on. He asked what you were doing. I told him you were testing drill bits for me to see which one was best so i dont have to do it. He thought that was very kind of you. I am very thankful myself for all your videos. They are very informative and save me time. Keep on doing what you love my friend! We all love it!
Thank you for the kind words!
Kids are awesome.
Yep, so true
That’s so sweet. My son and I also watch these kinds of videos. Then we walk into the garage and build rockets lol
I'll check it out! Thanks for the inspiration!
This channel is one of the true joys of RUclips.
Thank you for the kind words!
@@ProjectFarm you should use Centigrade plz and include Metric
He actually help us unlike other youtubers advertising us something expensive that works like trash
@@stevethea5250 ...do the conversions yourself.
.
These kinds of unbiased tool tests done by Project Farm are priceless to me. They cover tools (like the drill bits in this video) that span a range of prices, so I can pick a brand and level of quality that matches my pocketbook for the particular tool I need. Sometimes I'm looking for a tool that I only need to use occasionally and sometimes I'm looking for something that I'll be using everyday. Either way I can find the answers I'm looking for here. A big Thank You to Project Farm!
You are welcome!
This video was a lot of good work, but completely missed out on two of the more important aspects, TOOL GEOMETRY, and WHAT the drill material PURPOSE is for.
The ONE feature not emphasized was the "split point" feature. This one aspect alone IS important. The other geometry feature is the drill point angle. Standard drill point angle is 118°. Alternative angle is 135° often used for harder materials. Also important is "web thinning" and "rake". This is a matter of simply looking at the tool bit set BEFORE purchasing. None of this was even mentioned in this video.
Then the drill material was skipped over with no explanation ....yet it seemed that "cost" was more important. Well, if you're not going to provide any information about drill material or "coating" ....and in particular "SHARPENING" .....then this video is fundamentally only for people who need a drill every five or six years .....for wood.
.
That's me.
This man does a great public service. Thanks mate.
You are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm I've been working with metals for over 50 years and I'm also a mechanical engineer, which helps a lot to understand the problems. I have several solutions, not found in the books, that I'm willing to share for free. You have much broader reach that I have the time to develop. How can I contact you?
@@panan7777 he probably has an email that has project farm in the address
Totally agree
I *love* it that you talk fast. It help to get through a lot of material quickly. Your videos are engaging beyond belief! Thank you *so* much.
You are so welcome!
Well edited too. it cuts out all the blah, blah blah, and gets right to the point. Jim
Agreed. Some people talk so incredibly slow and I have to up the video speed, but he just delivers a good steady fast stream of information
I just wish there wa a note that list the best tool, without having to rewatch the whole video again. I know a lot of mechanic that just go with the brand name for all their tools. Some times a different brand might be better.
Really classy comments here gang. PF is for this new homeowner an absolute blessing. I feel assured when I make purchases for paint, drill bits, ratchet straps, my wife's Bosch icon wipers, that I bought the best. How do you place a value on that knowledge? Thanks PF, and you guys for being great.
I swear, it's like you know exactly which tool i'm going to buy next..... This channel needs more recognition.
lol. Nice! Thank you
I was shopping for drill bits this morning to go through leaf springs for a project I am working on. This video just saved me thirty bucks!
@Sven3xs so what will u buy?
@@kadenjohnson1072 what did u buy?
@hotrodd100 hyper tough is walmart
As a blacksmith who make knives and tools with hardened steel, I figured out which bits were best by trial and error. Bosch is definitely my go to for most medium to high carbon steel and DeWalt are the ones I use for mild. Even though they are the best, they do wear out pretty quickly when you're doing a lot of hardened steel. Two things help... Don't let them get too hot and use something like a drill doctor to keep them sharp. I have saved tons of money on bits using my $50 Drill Doctor. You won't get factory results, but you can definitely sharpen old bits into very functional bits. When all of that fails, you bust out the carbide bits, which are about $15-$20 a bit. They will go through anything...
Thanks for sharing.
I know this is an old comment, but if you are still around, I have a project where I need to modify some table saw wings to fit with a table saw with different hole spacings. The wings and table are cast iron. Should the Bosch work well for that project?
@@SavageDarknessyes just use a lots of cutting oil
No, cast iron is easy to drill and requires NO lubrication because of the graphite contained within!
This is a quality channel. The gold standard in terms of honest titles and enjoyable videography alongside narration by a knowledgeable host.
Yes. I totally agree.
Yes pleasee
Thank you very much!
whats the best drill sharpener?
Great test idea! I'll do it if there's enough interest. I'll check back to see how many likes this comment receives.
Eyeball to measure and a wheel grinder (+and some trial and error to master it)
Experience offhanding the tool is the best twist bit sharpener. I bought a whole box of bits for a buck and boy did I get some practice then. But you do have to know what you're doing. If you don't dress the wheel for instance you're using you're done then before you've even started etc. You can't sharpen a twist drill very good on some hooped out rounded over and worn up grinding wheel. They need to be flat and sharp.
I’d love to see this test!
A good finer grit grinding wheel and a good eye backed by experience. It's the only thing I have ever trusted for going on 30 years.
Great videos. Project Farm is my first go-to YT spot to check for reviews on tools/things I need to buy. Thanks!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I thought he was going to say: "lets see how long drill bits can be run in a lawn mower's crankcase before the engine blows up"
Great video!
Now....that would be a great video !!!
👍🏼
lol. Thank you!
"That's some serious damage."
LMAO!
@@wheelstandr OMG, now at night, I'll hear Todds voice and all the familiar phrases. Maybe he needs to make a bunch of sound bites. Ring tones, or entry greeting.
RUclips must give you an award for best channel of the year 2019 and you realy are the best channel with very good fair comparison without sponsors
Thank you for the feedback!
@@ProjectFarm now lets compare feedback and see whose best
@@shawnrogers8571 very funny! That'd be so subjective. Lol
@Project Farm
You are one of the best and most worthwhile channels on YT or any other video site for that matter. Merry Christmas to you, your family, and all the subscribers to Project Farm!
As a machinist no one would be more likely to criticize this video.
All I can say is thanks and you did a great job with the test. You also provided good drilling advise.
Thank you very much! I've held off on this video for over a year since I wasn't happy with the original test setup. A very talented machinist "Chuck" visited the shop and helped a lot. He gets credit for everything that went right and me for everything that isn't. Thanks again!
As a machinist, you know that a full pilot hole should be drilled prior to drilling with larger bits. This was the only criticism I have, as most home shop do it your self types are not aware of this practice. Also, chip breaking, but again, I revert back to the general do it your self type. Otherwise, it shows which bits will handle "abuse" better than other brands, which will help the weekend warriors. Cheers! Zip~
ZippoVarga exactly especially larger bits pilot holes are recommended but if your rushing or are lazy as you said shows what bits will take the abuse better
Rian Callahan Agreed Rian, my comment was based on the target audience of the video.
@@curt149k hola me llamo es walter. me gusta calabaza yo soy grande calabaza chico
The Dewalt drill bit's seamed to do pretty good, Since Dewalt has so many kinds I'd like to see a drill bit comparison with black oxide, titanium, black and gold and cobalt bits all compared. Dewalt has all of those types available. I'd also like to see a drill bit comparison between Dewalt pilot point and split point with both drilling speed and bit life. Thanks for all your hard work.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Kobalt drills are the way to go imo. Suckers last for a long time and can be resharpend
Its 14, and the others have 20+ its more expesive than most
Same thing with Bosch, they have different levels of drill bits too.
I would love to see exactly that!
This is probably the most informative channel on RUclips. I've learned so much from this channel...
This one of the most useful channels on you tube, especially when you consider the time invested for the information gained. Very high return.
I requested this test a year ago and I'm glad it finally came. I used to be a machinist and I broke alot of bits in my day. Learned alt from this video. I bought a ryobi and dewalt drill bit kit this black Friday. I was going to return the dewalt. Not anymore lol
Hi. I bought an oscillating sander (280x110mm pad size) from Rioby years ago. It lasted 20 minutes. 20 f...g minutes ! I returned to the shop, got a refund, bought a Bosch, and went back to work. Personal note : Rioby, although japanese, is worse than LIDL, a german hard discounter. Never buy anything from Rioby again.
Thank you!!
@@CaptainDangeax Good to know, I had been contemplating buying some Ryobi gear but after seeing how shoddy their drill bits are, i'll make a hard pass.
Yes, after destroying countless drill bits in my youth, I finally learned how to drill metal about 20 yrs ago, high force, low speed, lube, back off the pressure right at the end of the cut. Works every time.
I worked in a machine shop drilling holes all day, every day, day in, day out. After a few months you get pretty good at it. I had this funny way I'd wrap my whole arm in the spider to really get some force.
Makes sense. Thank you
Thank you for the feedback
also true in the bedroom
@@Hyperian Ha!
OK this is the 5th video thats popped up for me from you. I know I'm 9 months late here, but hear me out. I can't get over the level of ingenuity you apply with setting up these tests. I'm impressed by the thoroughness of your performance to cost comparisons as well. I'm subscribing and liking and hope your channel grows more so you can keep helping us out with valuable real-world product analysis as well as maybe getting sponsored or some kind of compensation for coming out of your own pocket to buy all these items.
Thank you for your work!
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Try this same test with non "retail" high end drill bits sets like Triumph, Irwin, Matco Hyper-Step, Chicago latrobe, and Norseman. Also, drill speed is a factor of split point chisel edge design/relief and web thickness. You can always make a drill bit cut faster with a thinner web, but the question is how many of those holes is it going to last.
Great point and thank you for the video idea!
Don’t forget Walter drill indexes as well
Matco is Irwin. They just put the bits in a matco case
I'm just glad you mentioned some "High end drill bits" because.. I was looking for something
better than the big box brands... and it was driving me up the wall, trying to find straight forward
reviews for great drill bits.
I bought these Norseman... glad I accidentally picked a winner?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CZH2SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@davidlong5755 Not since 2018.
I've just recently found your channel- OUTSTANDING!! Your ability to convey a multitude of testing variations without occupying an hour or more to do so is impressive. Thanks a lot for your efforts!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Results at 6:14 12:03 14:27 and conclusion at 15:55
Thank you for another great review.
Thanks, sometimes you just want the results without seeing all the testing. Thanks
Thank you for linking the results!
Ugh
I respect the amount of time and effort you put in this video. Great stuff man!
Awesome! Thank you!
@@ProjectFarm your videos have become a must watch for me. I have huge respect for the scientific approach you take to testing products. As a result of this video, I have been looking for the DeWalt Black-Oxide bits. It seems that they have replaced them with "Black & Gold" (for example...... look for product DW1177 - used to be Black Oxide and is now Black & Gold). I can't find any information on the purpose for the change, and more importantly I now don't know how the Black & Gold will perform compared to the Black Oxide. Do you have any idea? Thanks!
Great
This is some of the very best, no-bullshit, useful, informative content on RUclips.
Thank you very much! That's always my goal. No sponsors (other than generous patrons), not trying to sell anything I test, just provide viewers with an honest test. Thanks again!!
Yes, but I'd take the Bosch bits if you wanted to get rid of them. Thank you very much for the content!
You saved me hours of time. The Bosch drill bits are the only bits that would get through a bolt I had to drill out on my VW Cam Timing Bolt. They are amazing.
Thanks for sharing!
I just bought the DeWalt set a few weeks ago. Since I'm outside the US, it's time consuming and expensive to import tools and hardware. It's really nice to know I accidentally made a good choice!
Steve S what country are you from that tools are expensive?
You better check. Dewalt also has cheaper chinese rebrands. Make sure you bought the "expensive" dewalt and not the cheap line. The cheap line is crap and expensive, you better just buy some chinese brand that looks good at least in appearance.
b22chris A set of DeWalt bits like he showed here cost me about $92 American where I grew up. Import fees, taxes etc. it all adds up 😐😢😢
Steve S Please check out a company called Drill America. I have one of their full carbide sets. It was about $980- BUT and this is huge. I’m not constantly buying more and more bits because of wear and breakage.
I’ve used the crap out of the 3/8s, 1/2 and 5/8s bit through AR500 steel.
The only draw back really is I had to buy a diamond wheel to sharpen them. But I can do a whole armored SUV before having to resharpen a bit. So the initial cost ends up saving me time and money in the long run.
Those DeWalt bits are really nice. All the diesel techs at my shop use those
i love how creative you get to try and make the tests completely natural with no human interaction :D
Thank you
I'm always amazed at the thoroughness and attention to detail that go into your tests. Thanks for another great video!
Thank you very much!
Thanks!
You are welcome! Thanks for your support to the channel!
My grandfather left me a nice set of DeWalt from the 80’s or 90’s I think. I still use them to this day. Good stuff. Thanks for the video!
Nice! Thank you
15:43 This should be informed in every drill bit set!
I bet 95% of DIY guys don't have clue about correct rpms and forces to apply
Agreed and hands up at being one of those people. Done many a project struggling on like a tit, oblivious to my mistake.
Wish I could give two upvotes on this! guess this comment will have to do.
Mr. Victory,
Agreed, I never knew the correct way to use a drill either. One thing is for sure , Project Farm is more educational than any other teaching video that I've seen
Just amazing
@Moto Guzzi This is the first I've heard of it as well. I've always been taught to let the tool do the work and I've broken more than a few drill bits by putting too much pressure on it (usually drilling small holes through metal) so I would apply moderate pressure and let 'er eat!
I know about it but sometimes its kind of hard when drilling without a drill press. I though i wasnt putting enough force and later on when i bough a new similar sized drill bit i discovered it wasnt me, the drill bit was just crap and the newer one drilled through no problem. :/
If you have good quality drill bits then yeah, follow the sugested speeds and feeds, but otherwise its kind of hard.
Best advice would be just try to keep the chips are a good size and constand. The edge is supposed to cut slices not make metal dust.
This video was amazing. I assumed there would be few brands, one or two holes each and a long-winded explanation for each. You were thorough, quick, to the point, and tested quite a decent amount of brands on multiple materials.
That's how these type of videos should be made!
James Smithers he left some important stuff out in my opinions, compared to what he does in his older videos, and he seemed sorta biased toward dewalt lol
This is a great comparison and as a starter guide is unmatched.
One thing you might want to look into if you ever revisit this subject is the difference between 118 degree and 135 deg points. The 118 or split points are a better geometry for metals while the 'regular' 135 are more of a general purpose bit.
You do great work, man, and i totally respect that you never take sponsorships.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Actually, you are 100% incorrect on the drill point angle. Let me repeat .....100% INCORRECT. The very first drill bit in this video is a 118° and very clearly shows no split point.
118° IS the standard "GENERAL PURPOSE" geometry put on most drill bits. These bits generally do NOT have split points. Split point is an added geometry, only of value to those people who know they want it/need it, and don't have a drill grinder that can put this feature in.
The 135° is NOT the "regular" point angle. It is an angle that is better-suited to drilling harder materials. It too, is not "split pointed" as standard. There are some bits that DO have a split point, but you have to request it or find products that are already "split pointed".
This is the one DOWNSIDE of RUclips. People who make statements, sounding as if they really do know what they are talking about ....yet they've got everything wrong or backwards .....and some people reading the garbage, think they have just learnt something......and now they've got it all wrong.
SOLUTION: LOOK UP AND INVESTIGATE FROM MORE THAN ONE SOURCE. If someone has got it wrong, then the next source will probably reveal a problem ....then check another source that is more of an "authority".
.
Lawmower: thank God! They're not testing something on me!
“This week on Project Farm, we are seeing if you can run a small engine on slightly used drill bits.” 😜
Are you the guy that sings that shrek song
Wait. The dude from smashmouth?! 🤣🤣🤣
🙄🤤😴
@@jamessmithers5206 more like dude from shitmouth
Been shopping for a decent set of twist drills for years, but I never knew what I was actually getting for my hard-earned bucks.
One of the most useful videos you've published - at least to me.
Happy to support this channel via Patreon.
Thanks again, PF!
Great to hear! Thanks for being a Patreon!
i've had a set of the dewalt bits for a couple years. they've survived farm "fabricating" and wood shop really well. Tough box to take care of them too
Thank you for the feedback
I've had a set of dewalt drill bits and driver bits for years now, and the box they come with is definatly better than the clear hard plastic ones even if I always grab the wrong box lol.
@@Jasonrotfl SAME i cant believe i haven't written on the box which is which. I just never have a marker when i need one lol
Would love to see a test of smaller drill bits. Specifically, how well they resist breaking. You know, all the empty spots in your drill bit sets ;) Maybe using your torque gauge to see when they break. Great stuff, as always!
Thank you for the video idea!
Second this, I need less snaps in my life and toolbox
If anyone is doing small-hole drilling ....in metal, ....ferrous ....they need to educate themselves specific to kind of work and learn a lot more about tool geometries, coolants, and have the right kind of equipment as well. It is very common for a large full drill set to have the bottom three or four sizes to be empty.
These sizes ARE very delicate and they DO break very easily, as careful as anyone can be. IF a person does this kind of drilling regularly, they usually purchase a dozen each of these sizes.
.
@@taxicamel Yes, I totally agree. Still would be nice to see a Project Farm test to see which ones hold up best for the value.
Yes do it
Thank you for what you're doing on RUclips! You're a reference for us because we know that you won't be sponsored or something.. Keep it up! Love from Switzerland
Greetings and thank you very much! No sponsorship is testing freedom at its finest!!
You really taught me something today, that explains why I've gone through so many drill bits
Thank you very much!
ALMOST ANY hss drill bit over 1/4 inch ( small dia bits break) will last a lifetime. I am a machinist & first week of machinist school was devoted to sharpening. Drills,lathe cutters,milling etc.I am 63 years old & i have the same set of 3/8 to 1/2 inch set for home use since i was 18 years old.sure some have gotten pretty short but still all there & because i learned in machinist class how to sharpen.Most guys throw away a drill when it gets dull & that is wrong. Its sort of like throwing away a (3 man) master Henkle chefs knife when it gets dull.
Drill bit companies hate him. Lol teaching people how to use bits properly is gonna kill sales lol
Probably one of the best channels on RUclips... I appreciate all of the effort, time, and MONEY you put into doing this!
Thank you very much!!
Had to drill into a serious suspension bolt that I sheared the head off of and none of my drill bits were cutting it. Car (Audi 😓) has been sitting for weeks because I can only work on it on the weekend (when it isn't raining 🙄).
Bought the DeWalt set ($15!!) after watching this and within minutes, all done, bolt out.
Thank you *once again* for your service 🙏
Hello ReydioTube ,
Can I ask you about the process that proved successful for you to get the bolt out ? I see that you used a drill bit but what other steps / solutions tools were required to solve the problem of the sheared off (stuck bolt) ?
I know that having the right tools gets things done faster and efficient . I wish they had videos like this one when I was out there spending $ on tools that would not endure, your giving everyone a hell of shortcut. Great job👍
Thank you very much!
I bought the Bauer set based on what I saw in this video, and I LOVE them! Thank you for this review, very informative. I work as a state inspector and I can't tell you how many times I have had to drill broken off tag screws out. The Bauer bits cut through like butter with little to no flex even on the smaller sizes.
Thank you for the feedback
The last minute of this video should be watched by anyone wanting to use a drill press. Very informative video well done, and that last bit (no pun intended) of advice at the end is outstanding. Great work keep it up.
Thank you very much!
What's a good tip on how to gauge proper pressure?
@@Marcoosianism you'll know the correct pressure by the shavings. You want spiral shavings not bits or dust. Also, larger the bit slower the speed.
Seriously, one of best channels out there. I have made several purchases based on your videos and have not been disappointed.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Great review. I just bought a drill press and went through several brand new 1/2” bits while drilling .125 galvanized tube steel. I had no idea my technique or lack thereof was the problem. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you!! Glad it helped
R V yup, the bigger the bit the slower you need to go and the more downforce is required.
Best tip i can give for drilling metals. Thicker materials get lots of downpressure and low speed. Thin stuff can run at warp 10. When your chip is really long maintain your speed and pressure. If you get little needles you need more downpressure.
I drill through a lot of stainless steel and I periodically dip my bits in water to keep them cool. I believe if they get to hot it ruins the heat treatment on them, thus making them dull quicker. A little cutting oil too. Mine seem to last quite a while.
♥️I'm going to keep in mind the speed vs Downward Force, I think a lot of my drill bits have fallen victim to that combination.
I realize I run my drill too fast. Never occurred to me to go slow.
@@MrTruckerf I don't know... I find if I really push into the drill I can get a hole in a fraction of the time as going at a reduced speed. Maybe at home you wanna keep your bits lasting forever but on a job site time is money. Cheap madtercrafts bits and push like hell. When the .05 -.10 cent bit dulls or breaks, toss it and grab the next.
This is the reality on a job site no?
Hi, as someone who uses drill bits at the most once a month, i find to take it slow and easy, some times you need a small push, but i tend to look at the amount of swarth / shavings coming off the job and use that as a guide to my success.
Pushing strains both the drill and the bit, sub standard drills with plastic gears will get hot and cheap drill bits will bend / break.
So yes i keep my eye on the machinery.
Many years ago i worked in a factory that made electrical switches / contact goods ( one of the top 3 components supplier in Australia ) in 240 volt connectors ( plus the larger amperage items in switchboards and commercial environments),
Almost all of the work was in brass and every machine had a chart on drill and tap sizes and also the recommended speed and a separate chart on how to set up the belts and pulleys as every machine was set up with multiple belt drives and different sized pulleys of the motor.
Regards
George
Heat is the bit's enemy. It seems counter-intuitive, but you need to get the job done in a timely manner to keep heat from growing too rapidly. Keep it lubed, too.
Cobalt bits and proper feed rate are great. Always used pilot holes too especially hand drilling steel
I would love to see one done on grease. Such as RED N TACKY, SCHAEFER'S, etc. Thank you. Your videos have been solving a long standing problem of knowing what is good.
Great test idea! I've been working on test equipment and some test validation for several weeks. Hope to begin the testing soon!
Good idea! Just please make sure to include the TRC Paragon 3000 in the test!
@@ProjectFarm If you do test grease, you should include Redline CV2 grease
Great 💡 idea I would like to see that
Make sure to include both water proof and non.
I have that same drill press and i had no idea you could change the RPMs... It was handed down to me. I learn something everytime i watch this channel.
Glad to hear!
I'm happy to have such an honest person to watch. I've been subscribed since the lawnmower abuse days. Keep it up.
Thank you very much!
Ditto and love seeing you branch out to compare so many different products!
Lawnmower abuse??? I gotta see this, Thanks for the mention. Jim
This i really one of the best vid you ever made. I was searching for years for long lasting drils. Maby holesaw and stone drill bits next?
Thank you for the video idea!
Milwaukee Hole Hawg no doubt the winner for hole saws
@@ProjectFarm second on the holesaws! Thank you for doing what you do.
Can you add “chicago latrobe” to this test I’d like to see just how well these sets can do compare to a premium set.
Great suggestion
@@ProjectFarm Cleveland also a good brand. As a machinist I assume all the drills were HSS high speed steel except for the Bosch which was cobalt steel.
No drills are made of titanium ( just marketing) There are drills with TiN coating which is Titanium nitrite which is very hard and resists wear.
@@lrc87290 I don't think anyone was saying that the drills were made of titanium. They're clearly TiN or TiAlN. Cobalt steel is a HSS.
@@lrc87290 I don't think anyone was saying that the drills were made of titanium. They're clearly TiN or TiAlN. Cobalt steel is a HSS.
@@xenonram correct about cobolt being a form of HSS. I think one of the drill bits tested said titanium. Although he did also mention tin coating.
The channel always provides a wealth of knowledge and provides a library of information.
With winter around the corner, an idea for another project is battery chargers / maintainers / trickle chargers. What is more appropriate for different conditions.
If your are storing vehicles over winter, a car, is it best to just disconnect the battery, use a maintainer that can be just clipped on and keep the battery in optimum condition without having to disconnect the battery and lose any previous settings.
The effect of different maintainers/ trickle chargers for the multitude of different battery chemistries.
Tie down straps that are easy to use and will hold a load down. I can't find a quality tie down strap that will last for years, not rust or go down hill as you use them, what brand is best PF?
are you talking 1" or 2"? I am a flatbed trucker and I use Kinnedyne 2" ratchet straps. These straps see 100,000 miles of hard use, rain, snow and salt, year round. A periodic squirt of wd40 and they work for yrs. If you are looking for 1", try US Cargo online, they carry all kinds of straps for the trucking industry.
You need Shockstraps! I love them. Worth every penny. Best prices on them at fletcherproducts.com
The best ones are the cheap pack from harbor freight. Can replace them a year later at little cost
Take a stroll underneath billboard signs... particularly near major highway in rural locations... the ones the sign guys use to stretch the fabric are real nice and they air mail them to the ground... most never get picked back up.. just sit there in the weeds... only drawback is that I haven’t found one over 8ft long
Thank you for the video idea!
I recommend to test the laundry detergents - like Tide, Ariel, Persil etc., powders, liquids, caps...
Go clean a dish bitch
Atis R. It would be cool to see which ones get grease stains out of garage clothes best
yes this please!
Ariel is hard to beat given how well it works and how little it costs.
Please put human feces mixed with urine to test as engine oil. There is a legendary story that a guy was stranded in a desert due to engine running out of oil and he used his own feces mixed with urine as engine oil and got him out of trouble.
Why am I watching this?
he's so enthusiastic! I should be sleeping and instead I'm pumped about drill bits!
MadsterV it’s 3:30 am and I can’t stop watching..
So pumped to get some drill bits!!
Dude iam so glad u brought up the speed vs pressure while drilling.. I apply this to basically everything I drill ** but I learned this as a first year apprentice slow and steady +heavy wins the race. Have drill bits last decades
Thanks for the feedback.
Did you get past "first year apprentice"? Cutting speed does not change. It's based on the material and if cutting fluid is used or not. How much "pressure" you use is up to you and the condition and geometry of the drill bit.
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I am a CNC Programmer in the Aerospace world and I loved this comparison video. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
Then you should know he should have pecked and used coolant on all of these drills.
@@mhmoeller When you need to drill a wall or a metal plate at home, will you bring a canister with a cooling liquid and a compressor? )
@@hibahprice6887 I would simply use an metal oil can and pump a little bit of oil and water to the drill. Done that alot of times at home.
And you don't use coolant for wall drills.
@@mhmoeller The video shows that he also uses oil.
This chanel is a blessing to all starting mechanics and DIY(-ers)
Thank you very much!
I suggested this a year ago, THANKS SOOO MUCH... MUCH APPRECIATED.
Your videos are so helpful and informative, and this one is no exception! No nonsense testing, no distracting music, packed with the salient info right to the point...
Creative and thoughtful testing methods to ensure consistent conditions, and now...
You even have an alphabetical product guide to find videos fast!
This is brilliant - I so wish other RUclipsrs with myriad vids would do this!
Thank you so much for all you do!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Have always bought Dewalt bits. But they seem to be on sale whenever I need them. Glad I’ve been buying the good stuff this whole time.
John Lee. It seems like no matter what bit set that I’ve bought, I always go back to Dewalt. They just seem tougher.
Same goes for the philips, flat, and square bit Dewalt sets.
Thank you for the feedback
I usually try to keep a spare set on hand n try to only by on sale
Same here! I was rooting for DeWalt even before the test started
@@twilight_foxbody7354 i also only run the regular tip would by the cobalt option but cant find em without the step
I've had those DeWalt bits for about 2 years. I'm really glad I made a smart decision and thank you for confirming it for me. Great Video!
Thank you for the feedback
I use Bosch drill bits a lot for drilling through tool steel they are one of my favorite less expensive bits
Great feedback on the Bosch.
You pay $30 upfront but you can drill 10 times more steel per bit. And it’s free shipping.
I bought a set of Bosch bits 15 years ago and they still make quick work of any drilling tasks today. Worth the premium!
Thanks for the feedback.
Could you test hole saws? I go through tons of Milwaukee hole saws and would like to find a better brand if there is one
daniel harper kimball Midwest roto kut are amazing.
@@GizmosGameLounge Thanks, i just requested one of their catalogs. ill check them out
Most all the places you go have coded. Drill bits coated drill bits are no good. You have to get pure Cobalt. Drill bits Where the Cobalt is through the whole Steel? Of the drill bit the coded drill bits Do not hold up.
Diablo makes a good Sawzall blade I don't know if Diablo makes a hole saw But I know the Diablo. Sawzall blades hold up really good And I Diablo. Skill saw blades are the best. That's all I use is Diablo blades. On my Sawzall and my still sauce. They last the longest.
I looked it up on the internet. They do make Diablo. Hole saw I know I've use there. skill saw blades and Sawzall blades they are the best on the market. They last a long time. Much longer than other brands. If I did check this out online and they do make Diablo. Hole saws I just Googled. Diablo hole saws And it appeared on the internet. Hope this helps you.
It would be great to see a test on circular saw blades for maybe a 10” or 7 1/4” saw. I use those almost every day and would love to see which brand of blades is best!!
The new diablo blades that just came out, diablo was probably the best before too. Its between diablo and makita for best wood blades from what I've seen and used.
Great test idea! Thank you
I’ve heard the dewalt blades provide a great cut if you strip the paint off
Me: I wonder what -
Project Farm: I got you, fam. Say no more. We’re gonna test the world.
Thank you for the feedback
What plantes the best for habitation?
Well find out, we are not sponsored by any plantes, lmfao!
I just wanted to thank you for doing all these tests, especially for people like me. Unskilled, but willing to learn to do projects.
I have been trying out different Phillips bits for my drills and have been finding that most bits are crap. I would like to see a good bit comparison on who has the best bits.
I have been using Wiha brand torx bits for about three years now. They are a German company and their bits last about 20 or 30 times longer than the Dewalt/Irwin/Craftsman homeowner type stuff. Top of the line durability at a good price. I'm using the standard #8 torx for removing 250 or 300 stainless screws before I change out. I was twisting or stripping out the cheap ones about every 10-20 screws. www.wihatools.com/torx-tools/bits/torx-insert-bits/torx-insert-bit-contractor-grade-30-pack
Testing those will be problematic because the quality of the screws influences them a lot. There are hardened and unhardened screws. A good bit can somewhat handle a wrong size screw. Will it still work if the screw is rusty in the slot? After too little down force and camming out, is the bit still usable? Will it work in a Pozi screw in a pinch? So many intriguing questions...
@@zwz.zdenek Just sounds like a bunch of interesting tests to me.
D S, I have been using mostly Milwaukee and DeWalt drive bits, not only with a cordless screwdriver or impact driver but also inserted in a quarter- inch nut driver handle. Both brands seem to have good quality bits in terms of the hardness of the material, but they differ between each other, and certain screws will work better with one brand of bit versus the other. Indeed, I have 2 different styles of 3" long DeWalt Phillips bits (the type with the yellow, rod-shaped "torsion zone"), one marked "P1", the other marked "PH1", and although the drive bit tips look same ( angles, width of the ribs, etc) there is a pretty significant difference in how snugly they fit a #1 Phillips screw.
I've had the same problem
Project farm has deffinately reached the top of my views from notifications, always interesting, informative and a quality test
Thank you!
Project Farm is a Monday afternoon/evening tradition for me, keep up the good work.
Thank you very much! Hope this helps everyone get off to a great week
I love the videos, and definitely refer to them when making purchases.
My only (weak) criticism is that I prefer to see objective measures rather than subjective descriptions. The wear on the bits, for instance, could have been measured using a sharpness test - maybe a low-load twist into wood to see if it still grabs.
Thanks! Thanks for the constructive feedback.
I thought 10 to 20 holes per bit should have been drilled with a chart per bit showing time from first to last. I can see where that would be a huge amount of work but I still think that should have been done as drilling one hole is no indication of the bits ability to last and stay sharp. I am a machinist and use high quality cobalt bits but was considering a cheaper set I could fit into my bit driver, not just my drill. I think this will help with that but only so much.
What kind of wood? Balsa wood? Why not see what the edge will cut before drilling anything. Maybe it will cut paper. Do you want to be objective or do you want to be subjective????
What would you expect the sharpness to be if you were drilling into cast iron?
Researching and educating oneself is highly recommended.
This video was a lot of good work, but completely missed out on two of the more important aspects, TOOL GEOMETRY, and WHAT the drill material PURPOSE is for.
The ONE feature not emphasized was the "split point" feature. This one aspect alone IS important. The other geometry feature is the drill point angle. Standard drill point angle is 118°. Alternative angle is 135° often used for harder materials. Also important is "web thinning" and "rake". This is a matter of simply looking at the tool bit set BEFORE purchasing. None of this was even mentioned in this video.
Then the drill material was skipped over with no explanation ....yet it seemed that "cost" was more important. Well, if you're not going to provide any information about drill material or "coating" ....and in particular "SHARPENING" .....then this video is fundamentally only for people who need a drill every five or six years .....for wood.
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Will we see masonry bits in a future episode?
I'll be very happy to test them if there's enough interest. Hope there are a lot of likes to your question. I'll check back.
@@ProjectFarm masonry bits on ceramic tile, porcelain, stone, brick, etc.
@@ProjectFarm yes
Yes
I’d really like to see this one
I enjoy the engineering and systems just to perform the tests. The test results are the icing on the cake. 👍👍 Thank you for doing this for all of our benefit. Happy Holidays to you and your family. God Bless
Thank you and happy holidays!
I'd like to see more of a "how many holes you can drill before the bit is toast" over pure speed. I care more about longevity.
The bit that drills best drills longest. Unless it just wasn't ground so swift at the factory. Which does happen. A lot of this test was just pitting different grinds against each other. What you really need to do is a hardness test on each bit.
Thank you for the video idea!
Drill that drill COOLEST drills longest. Heat kills drill bits.
@@peterwelsh6975 hola me llamo es walter. me gusta calabaza yo soy grande calabaza chico
Yes that would be very very important, how many holes...............
As usual, simply great! That said, M42 cobalt is thought by many to be too brittle for hand-held drilling. I have various sizes I’ve collected over the years, mostly Irwin brand. I’ve never broken one, but I’m religiously careful when using my M42 alloy cobalt bits hand-held. If you ever redo this test I’d appreciate an M35 cobalt set being included. M35 alloy is considered by many to be a better alloy for Hand-held drilling. Less brittle but not quite as hard as M42 alloy.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Do you think using liberal oil or cutting fluid would prevent the chipping of the Cobalt? I've used Cobalt bits dry, and I think it's the dry drilling where the metal basically scrapes and chips. He does a review on this channel of cutting fluid, and "Magic Tap" was one of the best ones, as well as CRC chlorinated paraffin cutting oil, which both had really strong lubrication abilities. The lubrication would probably eliminate all the chipping, but it's just a guess.
@@Ritalie I prefer the product “Tap Magic”. It’s simply awesome for my drilling and tapping chores. Lastly, it’s a sad fact many of today’s bits have an awful grind. I often sharpen my new bits before critical use. I find a Drill Doctor makes quick work of both Steel and cobalt alloys. I’ve uses one since the 80’s. I’d say 80% of my drill index has been resharpened, many bits having been sharpened before first use. Regarding Tap Magic: I've been using Tap Magic since the mid 1980's. At that time there were only two formulations, Aluminum, and Ferrous (steel/iron). The proof is actually hand-tapping a few holes with Tap Magic, dry, and other tapping lubricants. The outcome is remarkably in favor of Tap Magic.!
@@Tool-Meister I didn't know if those drill sharpeners were actually useful. I better buy one. So yes, Tap Magic. I think I said it backwards. That's one of the very best cutting fluids because it has very high lubricant properties. In the tests on this channel it performed best.
M35 has 5% Moly, 6.4% Tungsten, and 5% Cobalt compared to 9.5% Mo, 1.5% W, and 8% Co of M42. I think M35 is harder and more brittle than M42 because of higher Tungsten it has, but also M35 has lower heat resistance due to lower Cobalt content.
I've always been impressed with Bosch's consistent quality regardless of the product
Except for the power tools.. Sir AvE just dissected one and wasn't impressed at all. ruclips.net/video/Lpf67S2qH0I/видео.html
Thank you for the feedback
I don’t like their automotive applications. More expensive than the rest, but the quality is on the average side
@@yurik1994 Like those gimmicky spark plugs with multiple conductors?
They have really good wipers too. Whereas the 'store brand' (RainX garbage) lasts maybe 3-6 months before shredding on ice, a Bosch wiper will last for a good 2-3 years. Sure, they're about twice as expensive but I don't have to worry about replacing them.
You never disappoint sir, can't thank you enough for remaining independent and impartial! This channel is a service!
Thank you very much!
I would love to have seen some measurements as to the accuracy of the hole sizes as well! If there is ever a next drill bit video it might be interesting to see!
Thank you for the video idea!
Indeed runout would be interesting . as well, if somewhat press specific.
Drilling an axle flange on a 6 ton truck was eating each bit I put to it. Ran out of bit when down to the auto parts store & found a Century Cobalt Drill Bit it did the trick for me. I have gone thru several sets of the Dewalt Gold. I may need to slow down my drill & add more weight, Thanks for the teat.
You are welcome! Thanks for the feedback.
Every single one of your videos is informative and interesting. Thanks for doing these tests. My favorite channel on YT.
Thank you!
Hey there, I've got an idea for a video. Could you test different undercoating materials like POR 15, Fluid Film, etc? I'd be very interested in that. Thanks again for another great video!
Great suggestion! I'm on it. It'll take some time before the video is complete
Project Farm Awesome, and understandable. I’d expect nothing less from a thorough test. Looking forward to it!
I would be interested to see how some of the "professional brands" such as Cleveland compare to these more mainstream consumer brands.
Thank you for the video idea!
Chicago Latrobe.
Sandvik.
A Swiss made set I owned in the 80's(brand name escapes me at the moment).
Go get the blue Fastenal twist drill canister as well, those have been my go-to in service trucks for years
Cleveland twists and sandviks are what I use
Guhring Walter, OSG, Titex for serious drilling performance
I bought from Home Depot a set of 30 titanium coated Ryobi set of 21 sizes. It was several years ago. Some of the bits were sharpened with a backwards chisel. That is, it looked like it was meant to cut with the drill in reverse but it wasn't. I found this in Harbor Freight drill bits too. Of course, they don't cut at all (except maybe in soft wood but not well).
Thanks for sharing.
Never a “dull” moment on this channel... sorry for that corny “bit”...
I will be here all night.
Ps: keep up the great work!
I can bring a few flutes if you're bored and need to be entertained
"I will be here all night."
...and please: Try the fish. :-)
Crickets chirping...
Lmao, awesome
Sharp sense of humor
After experiencing the joy of using cobalt bits myself, it's the only thing I use anymore. Good stuff!
It's 12am here, but who cares? Project farm is here
Awesome!! Hope you enjoy the showdown video!
Where you from. Its 10pm in the uk
Its 2:40 here in califronia
@@Zak-ob5ze Romania
Many times these videos confirm the gut feeling i have about different tools, but sometimes results are surprising. Very valuable info
Thanks!
I'm definitely subscribed.. excellent to the point and no vocal crap talk..excellent, keep up the great work.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I’ve been impressed with dewalt bits. However, the best twitst drills I’ve used in this size range have been from Fastenal.
Good to know. Fastenal seems to avoid the consumer junk.
Thank you for the feedback
I would like to see steel step bits tested they have a huge variety on price and I was wondering if it is worth the extra cost
As with many things the intended usage is everything. For plastic and aluminium the cheap ones will go on forever. They aren’t hard to sharpen either, just grind the inside of the flutes to refresh the edge.
@RollinRat Well said!
This guy is singlehanded changing the lives of lots of dads out there across the world helping them chose the best equipment and tools like no one ever has done before… this is a wet dream for us handyman…
You should test all the screwdriver BITS that go into a power drill/driver tge cheap ones are always bending and rounding off for me bit I haven't tryed the good ones by dewalt ect thanks
Thank you for the video idea!
was going to make the same suggestion ... I've have had various bit failures over the years and would love to save some time and money on my next purchase
Ive tried several. I Think drill bits and driver bits dewalt last along time. Rest either stripped out or twist way to easy costing more in the long run. But i do more wood working than metal or steel. what little i use in metal/steel ive never had a issue.
Something I'm never interested in: Drill Bits
Something I'm intensely interested in when I see it in a thumbnail on RUclips: Drill Bits
Mister Niceguy lmao so true
*"DAD? WHERE'S MY BIKE?"*
*"I'M MAKING A VIDEO"*
lol. Great point!
I said it many times before and I'll say it again, THE BEST CHANNEL ON RUclips!
Thanks so much!
Who needs Consumer Reports, when we have Project Farm?
This is more real. Seeing is believing.
@@jean-pierredejon7458 C.U.does the same,exact,tests.