Pulling and boring the block is an excellent idea - and definitely the correct way to resolve this - but I won't be doing that. Instead, plan B is what I like to call "hone and hope for the best" - aka ball hone the cylinders and slap new Keith Black pistons in, then see what happens. My thoughts are if the truck runs fine, then I'm good for a few more years and if not, then I'm basically just back at square, but I have compression rings now. If the cylinder wall damage does end up posing a major issue, then I'll most likely build up another short block from scratch and swap motors. So this will be an interesting learning experience - I think.
Bummer Ray. I guess maybe on the possitive side you found it before it destroyed the block. I was wondering how the oil rings looked? She will be like new when its complete. Keep up the good content.
Thanks man! Yeah, at least it didn't destroy the head or anything major. I'm thinking I might just bore this block over .040 total and see if that saves things. Maybe .060 total, but not sure. I'm talking to the machine shop and looking into pulling the block out.
Dear Ray, after all you have been through with this block, just have the block bored and the crank checked for cracks and straightness/ balanced and put it together with Keith Black pistons. Please make sure the timing cover is on when they deck the block. Jim.
That's definitely the correct approach for this. I'm in the soup now with the .020" pistons, so I want to see how it works out. If it doesn't work well, then I might do as you say and pull the block. I've been enough motors to realize what you say is absolutely correct. The issue is I don't really want to spend a ton of time and money on the 22RE, when it just needs to get me around for another year or two. I'd much rather put those funds towards building the 3RZ turbo motor. Anyway, this will be a fun experiment I think.
@@ray5961 I hear you, then just hone the block and install new bearings and the new pistons. That should last plenty long enough, and save funding for the 3RZ
those oil return slots in the pistons are huge, my first thought is that small bits of broken piston ring were stuck in those spots with the big holes, steel ring rubbing on soft aluminium would wear away at the piston, especially at the crazy up/down speeds of the piston, those litte bits of ring would really be moving. Eventually they left the engine and are probably sitting inside your cat converter somewhere!
for me odd thing,why rod bearings looks like all wear on one side of a bearing? strange and if all pistons had broken rings top ones when maybe some extreme detonation was some time before or running extreme without manifold, but that thing only for 2 stroke engine i think is common, like your videos and you toyota, keep it up👍
That can sometimes be caused by a slightly bent or twisted rod or crank journal. The bearing can end up cocked in there a bit and wears a bit more on one edge. If you had a previous engine failure, such as a blown head gasket or hydro lock or something of that nature, it can throw things out of perfect true straight center line to the crank. I'm going to check my rods before I reinstall them to see if there is any twist. Also, when they are re-sized and honed, etc. if someone is off even a tiny bit, it can introduce a slight tilt on the rod. Same goes for line boring the block, etc, etc. Everything has to be dead on down to .0001" - if not, it will sometime manifest itself in uneven bearing wear.
![COLOMBIA vs. CHILE [4-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 10](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TDjN4W3yy1k/mqdefault.jpg)
thats one hell of a clean engine
Thanks! I keep on top of it anytime I see dirt
Pull it! Also get them to deck the block and the timing chain cover together. Increased power and no head gasket issues when I rebuilt my 22re.
Pulling and boring the block is an excellent idea - and definitely the correct way to resolve this - but I won't be doing that. Instead, plan B is what I like to call "hone and hope for the best" - aka ball hone the cylinders and slap new Keith Black pistons in, then see what happens. My thoughts are if the truck runs fine, then I'm good for a few more years and if not, then I'm basically just back at square, but I have compression rings now. If the cylinder wall damage does end up posing a major issue, then I'll most likely build up another short block from scratch and swap motors. So this will be an interesting learning experience - I think.
Bummer Ray. I guess maybe on the possitive side you found it before it destroyed the block. I was wondering how the oil rings looked? She will be like new when its complete. Keep up the good content.
Thanks man! Yeah, at least it didn't destroy the head or anything major. I'm thinking I might just bore this block over .040 total and see if that saves things. Maybe .060 total, but not sure. I'm talking to the machine shop and looking into pulling the block out.
Maybe the new motor project is trying to push ahead for a go....
haha I think so yeah :)
Dear Ray, after all you have been through with this block, just have the block bored and the crank checked for cracks and straightness/ balanced and put it together with Keith Black pistons. Please make sure the timing cover is on when they deck the block. Jim.
That's definitely the correct approach for this. I'm in the soup now with the .020" pistons, so I want to see how it works out. If it doesn't work well, then I might do as you say and pull the block. I've been enough motors to realize what you say is absolutely correct. The issue is I don't really want to spend a ton of time and money on the 22RE, when it just needs to get me around for another year or two. I'd much rather put those funds towards building the 3RZ turbo motor. Anyway, this will be a fun experiment I think.
@@ray5961 I hear you, then just hone the block and install new bearings and the new pistons. That should last plenty long enough, and save funding for the 3RZ
those oil return slots in the pistons are huge, my first thought is that small bits of broken piston ring were stuck in those spots with the big holes, steel ring rubbing on soft aluminium would wear away at the piston, especially at the crazy up/down speeds of the piston, those litte bits of ring would really be moving. Eventually they left the engine and are probably sitting inside your cat converter somewhere!
haha yeah... I was actually going to check the exhaust system to see if I could find bits of the rings :)
for me odd thing,why rod bearings looks like all wear on one side of a bearing? strange and if all pistons had broken rings top ones when maybe some extreme detonation was some time before or running extreme without manifold, but that thing only for 2 stroke engine i think is common, like your videos and you toyota, keep it up👍
That can sometimes be caused by a slightly bent or twisted rod or crank journal. The bearing can end up cocked in there a bit and wears a bit more on one edge. If you had a previous engine failure, such as a blown head gasket or hydro lock or something of that nature, it can throw things out of perfect true straight center line to the crank. I'm going to check my rods before I reinstall them to see if there is any twist. Also, when they are re-sized and honed, etc. if someone is off even a tiny bit, it can introduce a slight tilt on the rod. Same goes for line boring the block, etc, etc. Everything has to be dead on down to .0001" - if not, it will sometime manifest itself in uneven bearing wear.