Thank you for making this video. Just got the camera and had no idea all the settings I was missing. Even after 2 years, this video has benefited someone.
Thank you for this, Thank you for this, Thank you for this!!! I finally got my body last week and I have been banging my head on the wall this whole time...this is my first CANON body after shooting NIKON for 23 years! Once again, THANK YOU!
I got a mark ii and then a few weeks later this new beauty. I switched from decades with Nikon to Sony for a year or so and now Canon. The menu system is so different from both Nikon and Sony! The mark III is overall significantly superior to the a9/a9ii. Plus the quality out of Sony is garbage after 1600 iso.
Thank you for sharing your settings. I got my Mark III a couple of weeks ago and made a few adjustments based on your settings (clarity, auto off, and shooting in fine detail vs standard). You know there is an update to 1.1.0... 😏? Mine came updated from Canon/B&H...
Thank you for doing this video, We at Fixation & Wex got one body in then the next day we had to close our store which we only reopened Monday so I am looking forward to testing it out. We have no NFL international series this year so going to have to shoot something else. Once again thank you.
The electronic exposure level in the view finder on the 1dxmkiii 0 its on the right hand side of the screen - is it possible to relocate this to the bottom?
I am totally surprised to know your lack to use of three menu functions: 1. Image review, which I set for 8 seconds. Why? After a play, there is often enough time to look at the burst of photos and to tag the peak photos for later viewing in Photo Mechanic (PM) rather than culling through the thousands of images, right? Also the use of the camera's microphone to vocal record the action/jersey numbers that can be played back on PM. 2. All camera bodies are NOT accurately microfocused to the attached lens, in fact set to "0", hence adjustments are required to correct back or front focusing. On my EF-400mm II 2.8, I had to adjust +2 on one 1DX2 and -1 on the other 1DX2. If you attached a TC 1.4x, you get to do it all over again. Switching lenses to another uncalibrated camera can be an issue of focusing. In your case, you'd have to send all camera bodies and lenses to Canon for a pricy cost for something you can do in your backyard on a non-sporting for FREE. 3. My anti-flicker is always off. While the flicker of gym/stadium lights (non-LED) cycles at 60 ~ second, there are color and exposure differences. I have missed peak action shots using the feature "ON.' Not anymore as I shoot in RAW with the ability to color correct images that were in focus and have the peak shot. I hope this helps others to choose alternatives. We all have our traits, but I try to keep mine updated and flexible.
Hi Peter! For dogs catching frisbees, do you think case 4 would be good for that also? I know it’s not your thing, but I’m trying to keep things simple for what works. The dogs do jump at a consistent speed, though I imagine there is a little more variability in movement compared to football. Any thoughts? Thanks!!
Hello I have a question if someone from the forum could help me; What adjustments do I have to make to take action photos? I have the Canon 1DX Mark iii camera and the 70-200mm lens, I have been taking pictures of birds in my house but when the wide thing is out of focus; why
Hi there Peter! Thanks so much for the informative video. I got the 1dX Mark III but for some reason the touch red sensor tracking doesn't work when I put my finger on it. I've gone through all the menu systems and can't figure out why it would be not working. I've even messaged Canon and they have said I need to ring a number that isn't free to call to get more info... Any chance you know anything about this? Sorry to ask such a long winded question but I'd be so grateful for any help!
Have you tried going to the “Custom Controls” near the bottom of screen 6 in the orange menus. This is a great feature because when you hit it, it shows you a diagram of the camera with the particular button highlighted.The touch controller is the second item. When you are on it and hit “set” it will give you a whole bunch of options for that button. It’s possible that it is set for the wrong function or to “Off”.
@@PeterReadMiller Oh my goodness it worked! I honestly can't thank you enough. So that saves me paying to phone up Canon's customer helpline again (even they didn't know what was wrong with it) or sending it off when it didn't even need to. I can now happily pick this beast up with reassurance that there is nothing wrong with it. Thank you so very much!! :)
Setting your white balance. White balance is the color temperature of the light at the time of shooting. This is where most people have the most difficulty in photography. So they just put it in AWB (auto white balance). Mix flash with indoor tungsten and AWB your colors are sometimes so far off skin tones are purple or some such a ridiculous color. But to learn more about photography I suggest you get out of this habit and try other settings at various times and study what happens to your color tones under different colors of light, the knowledge gained will make you a better photographer. Shoot a sunset at a Kelvin temperature of 9000° or shade setting and you'll get much warmer colors than with auto white balance. White paper should look white in your photograph. Grey should be grey. If they aren't then your white balance is off. Kelvin scales go from 1000° to 10,000° scale. Sunrise and sunsets are around 2000°-3000° Average household bulbs are around 2500°-2900° And tungsten bulb 500w 1k at 3000° And a quartz bulb 3200-3500° SUN noon 5000°-5400° Daylight sun and blue sky 5500°-6500° Sun through cloud and haze 5500°-6500° Overcast day 6000°-7500° Outdoor shade 7000°-8000° Heavy overcast 8000°-10000°. You can use the more useful presets which are identified by the symbols other than the AWB (auto white balance) if your camera doesn't have a KELVIN TEMPERATURE setting. Another very effective method is to set a custom white balance. Using a plain piece of white paper. Turn off auto focus and got to custom white balance setting and activate it. Then the next photo you take will be the chosen white balance. So you set the white paper in the same color of light your photographing in take the shot and save this for current custom white balance. Now go back to your white balance custom setting choose that photo for custom white balance. Your camera will confirm do you wish to use this image for custom white balance, select yes press set and this is now your white balance setting. And as long as your color of light remains the same your shots will be good. If your lighting changes you'll need to repeat the process. That's why I use the Kelvin method I can instantly Change my color settings as needed. Using live view you can adjust Kelvin temp to your liking until you're familiar with the Kelvin scale. You can also use live view for setting your exposure using the RGB histogram.
Hi Peter, thx for sharing your experience to help us coming up in the industry. I have been shooting sports for about two years and am currently a junior hockey, WHL team photographer. I am currently struggling over the Canon R5 and R6 for my main camera. The R5 is 45MP and the R6 is basically as you know the 1D X Mark iii sensor at 20.1MP. Both have the same AF and shutter speed ability. Last season the front office regularly required 16x20 300px print quality photos and I am wondering if you can give me some insight as you have been shooting the 1DX professionally for years. Should I go with the R5 with the larger pixels or the R6 with the better low light ability? Any help or advise would be very much appreciated.
Great and helpful stuff from a photographer whose work I've admired for decades. Thanks for posting this!
Thank you for making this video. Just got the camera and had no idea all the settings I was missing. Even after 2 years, this video has benefited someone.
Thank you for this, Thank you for this, Thank you for this!!! I finally got my body last week and I have been banging my head on the wall this whole time...this is my first CANON body after shooting NIKON for 23 years! Once again, THANK YOU!
I got a mark ii and then a few weeks later this new beauty. I switched from decades with Nikon to Sony for a year or so and now Canon. The menu system is so different from both Nikon and Sony!
The mark III is overall significantly superior to the a9/a9ii. Plus the quality out of Sony is garbage after 1600 iso.
Been shooting high school football for many years & leaned a lot from you on this video Thank you!
Thank you, Peter. Great treat to be able to hear these suggestions from a true pro!
You convert those jpeg files to raw in Topaz. It's no native Raw file but gives you back a lot of your control and detail.
Thanks Peter. Your explanations are top notch.Hope everyone gets back to shooting soon.
I didn't know about the shutter lag, thanks for the tip!!
Hi Peter, thank you so much for your tutorials! Are you planning a "best settings for Sports" tutorial for the Canon R3, too? Thanks!
Thank you Peter. Got mine on Valentines day and only had one shoot done before the lockdown!! ugh LOve the 1dx bodies!!! Stay Safe #Toronto
Great video as always Peter. Thanks for making this!
thank you very much Peter👍👍
Thanks Peter
Great insight into the Canon 1dx Markiii
Thank you for sharing your settings. I got my Mark III a couple of weeks ago and made a few adjustments based on your settings (clarity, auto off, and shooting in fine detail vs standard). You know there is an update to 1.1.0... 😏? Mine came updated from Canon/B&H...
Got it.
Thank you for doing this video, We at Fixation & Wex got one body in then the next day we had to close our store which we only reopened Monday so I am looking forward to testing it out. We have no NFL international series this year so going to have to shoot something else. Once again thank you.
Thanks 🙏🏻 for video
The electronic exposure level in the view finder on the 1dxmkiii 0 its on the right hand side of the screen - is it possible to relocate this to the bottom?
I thought picture style doesn’t affect RAW?
I am totally surprised to know your lack to use of three menu functions:
1. Image review, which I set for 8 seconds. Why? After a play, there is often enough time to look at the burst of photos and to tag the peak photos for later viewing in Photo Mechanic (PM) rather than culling through the thousands of images, right? Also the use of the camera's microphone to vocal record the action/jersey numbers that can be played back on PM.
2. All camera bodies are NOT accurately microfocused to the attached lens, in fact set to "0", hence adjustments are required to correct back or front focusing. On my EF-400mm II 2.8, I had to adjust +2 on one 1DX2 and -1 on the other 1DX2. If you attached a TC 1.4x, you get to do it all over again. Switching lenses to another uncalibrated camera can be an issue of focusing. In your case, you'd have to send all camera bodies and lenses to Canon for a pricy cost for something you can do in your backyard on a non-sporting for FREE.
3. My anti-flicker is always off. While the flicker of gym/stadium lights (non-LED) cycles at 60 ~ second, there are color and exposure differences. I have missed peak action shots using the feature "ON.' Not anymore as I shoot in RAW with the ability to color correct images that were in focus and have the peak shot.
I hope this helps others to choose alternatives. We all have our traits, but I try to keep mine updated and flexible.
Hi Peter! For dogs catching frisbees, do you think case 4 would be good for that also? I know it’s not your thing, but I’m trying to keep things simple for what works. The dogs do jump at a consistent speed, though I imagine there is a little more variability in movement compared to football. Any thoughts? Thanks!!
Hello I have a question if someone from the forum could help me; What adjustments do I have to make to take action photos? I have the Canon 1DX Mark iii camera and the 70-200mm lens, I have been taking pictures of birds in my house but when the wide thing is out of focus; why
Hi there Peter!
Thanks so much for the informative video. I got the 1dX Mark III but for some reason the touch red sensor tracking doesn't work when I put my finger on it. I've gone through all the menu systems and can't figure out why it would be not working. I've even messaged Canon and they have said I need to ring a number that isn't free to call to get more info... Any chance you know anything about this? Sorry to ask such a long winded question but I'd be so grateful for any help!
Have you tried going to the “Custom Controls” near the bottom of screen 6 in the orange menus. This is a great feature because when you hit it, it shows you a diagram of the camera with the particular button highlighted.The touch controller is the second item. When you are on it and hit “set” it will give you a whole bunch of options for that button. It’s possible that it is set for the wrong function or to “Off”.
@@PeterReadMiller Oh my goodness it worked! I honestly can't thank you enough. So that saves me paying to phone up Canon's customer helpline again (even they didn't know what was wrong with it) or sending it off when it didn't even need to. I can now happily pick this beast up with reassurance that there is nothing wrong with it.
Thank you so very much!! :)
The face and eye detection in mirrorless mode is the same as r5 or worse?
Same on the live view screen
Setting your white balance.
White balance is the color temperature of the light at the time of shooting. This is where most people have the most difficulty in photography. So they just put it in AWB (auto white balance). Mix flash with indoor tungsten and AWB your colors are sometimes so far off skin tones are purple or some such a ridiculous color. But to learn more about photography I suggest you get out of this habit and try other settings at various times and study what happens to your color tones under different colors of light, the knowledge gained will make you a better photographer. Shoot a sunset at a Kelvin temperature of 9000° or shade setting and you'll get much warmer colors than with auto white balance. White paper should look white in your photograph. Grey should be grey. If they aren't then your white balance is off.
Kelvin scales go from 1000° to 10,000° scale. Sunrise and sunsets are around 2000°-3000° Average household bulbs are around 2500°-2900° And tungsten bulb 500w 1k at 3000° And a quartz bulb 3200-3500° SUN noon 5000°-5400° Daylight sun and blue sky 5500°-6500°
Sun through cloud and haze 5500°-6500°
Overcast day 6000°-7500° Outdoor shade
7000°-8000° Heavy overcast 8000°-10000°. You can use the more useful presets which are identified by the symbols other than the AWB (auto white balance) if your camera doesn't have a KELVIN TEMPERATURE setting.
Another very effective method is to set a custom white balance. Using a plain piece of white paper. Turn off auto focus and got to custom white balance setting and activate it. Then the next photo you take will be the chosen white balance. So you set the white paper in the same color of light your photographing in take the shot and save this for current custom white balance. Now go back to your white balance custom setting choose that photo for custom white balance. Your camera will confirm do you wish to use this image for custom white balance, select yes press set and this is now your white balance setting. And as long as your color of light remains the same your shots will be good. If your lighting changes you'll need to repeat the process.
That's why I use the Kelvin method I can instantly Change my color settings as needed. Using live view you can adjust Kelvin temp to your liking until you're familiar with the Kelvin scale. You can also use live view for setting your exposure using the RGB histogram.
Hi Peter, thx for sharing your experience to help us coming up in the industry. I have been shooting sports for about two years and am currently a junior hockey, WHL team photographer. I am currently struggling over the Canon R5 and R6 for my main camera. The R5 is 45MP and the R6 is basically as you know the 1D X Mark iii sensor at 20.1MP. Both have the same AF and shutter speed ability. Last season the front office regularly required 16x20 300px print quality photos and I am wondering if you can give me some insight as you have been shooting the 1DX professionally for years. Should I go with the R5 with the larger pixels or the R6 with the better low light ability? Any help or advise would be very much appreciated.
R6 is your best bet if you cant make a decision by urself cheers