My DPF is probably pretty corroded... since it has been in the woods behind my house for the last 3 years 🤷🏻♂️ But thanks for all the work you put into your videos. You have a video pretty much fixing everything, and it's invaluable to your viewers
Had EGT Sensor #1 fail while traveling through Alaska this summer and I have been putting off replacing it. This was a fantastic demo of what to do if the sensor does not come out nicely and helps give me the confidence to get under there and get it replaced. Thanks for another great video!
My egt’s came out alright, as you instructed, but had to take her to a shop for my PM sensor. Had to have a new bung welded in for that one. Didn’t realize there was 15M02 or I’d have had the dealer handle my egt sensors, but they weren’t too expensive, the PM sensor wasn’t cheap, but wasn’t too bad really. Gold sensor safe anti-seize used on them all so hopefully next time they all come out easy!
For those DIYers who don't have access to an oxy/acetylene rig there is a better alternative to propane or plain MAP. Bernzomatic makes a small portable MAP/oxy rig. I have had success in using one for situations like this. They are available at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. Buy an extra oxygen bottle as they tend to use the oxygen quicker than the MAP. I can see where the bung would twist off as it is only attached to relatively thin exhaust tubing. It may help to grip the bung with a small pipe wrench to counteract the torque applied by the ratchet to prevent twisting the bung off. This is the first time I have seen threads peel off of a sensor. The hex and threaded portion must be made of a soft material. I'd apply a little copper anti seize to the new sensor. My go to penetrant is PB Blaster. A local old time independent shop owner I know likes Kroil or Deep Creep.
I just changed EGT12 and noticed what a cluster-F changing EGT13 is going to be unless I drop the DPF assembly. Even without peeling threads. Wtf Ford? I kroiled them all just in case. Thanks for the video of this thing on the bench.
Quick tip for rust belt mechanics. The point of heat is to expand the bung only. Defeats the purpose of using heat if you’re expanding what you want to thread out with what it’s being threaded out of. Try tightening slightly before loosening.
Thanks ARod, I think I’m going to start spraying my sensors periodically with Kroil. Maybe every oil change while I’m there. When replacing put some copper anti seize on the threads?
Drop the socket on the breaker bar in liquid nitrogen till you need it. It will cool the sensor shrinking it while the threaded bung stays cherry red and expanded.
Great idea!!! 👍. Heat the female threads, which expands ;while freezing the male threads; shrinking it 😮! Sounds perfect, in theory…! Where do u buy Liq. nitrogen?? Great info! 👍
Great info, but mine twisted off and left all the threaded part in the bung. Now I'm guessing the bung will need to be replaced, but that's not going to be easy with the system still on the truck (2008 F550 Dually 4x4 flatbed)
You can't easily light your cigarettes, pipe, charcoal grill or campfire with a spark striker. The Bic multi-purpose and thus superior in my opinion. Just watch out for your thumb.
Thanks for another great video man! Was wondering if you think it's worth being proactive with these sensors and removing them before they get stuck in and applying a copper anti-seize then re-install? My new 2022 has less than 5K on it and I'm sure they'd come out pretty easily now but like anything I'm sure there is some risk of breakage (thinking spark plugs). If they are accessible with the DPF still installed (haven't checked yet) it wouldn't take long and I'm all about preventative maintenance!
I had a failed soot sensor at the tail pipe. I used acetylene with no such luck, and ended up having to drop the tail pipe and have a bung welded on. Those EGT sensor look a lot better to deal with over the particulate matter sensor. Be very careful and remain patient when dealing with these exhaust systems. As A-Rod stated they don’t offer replacement parts on the smalls. Ford wants to sell you expensive replacement components.
Man that’s the same thing that happened with my 2015. The nut flats on the pm sensor fell apart when I placed a wrench on it. Ordered a new bung and sensor and had my shop do it as I don’t have a welder. He removed the axle-back section and two bolts rusted out and. Welded up the old bung and put the new one right next to it. I’d have thought the egt 1-1, 1-2, and 1-3 would’ve had higher heat-cool cycles and gave more of a fight, but they came out fairly easy. Used some rust penetrant, unplugged the sensors, cut them and used a socket like Arod shows here, and he instructed me on the phone. I also live in southeast VA so we don’t have THAT big of an issue with rust, although we still have some, albeit nowhere near as bad as MI does lol. Also used the copper “sensor-safe” anti-seize on the new ones. Soot sensor had grey anti-seize on the threads already, but added some of the copper to it. As soon as I can afford the kit I’m deleting this crap off of my duty. My 2015 only has 56k miles on her. That is if we’ve even got diesel at all next year lol
Any videos regarding P0402? Got if on my 19. Local diesel mechanic swapped egr cooler, egr valve, map sensor, cleaned out all the intakes, replaced filter. Still getting power loss and throwing code again. I mean 4k later and it's still jacked up...
You should try to get the bung cherry red and only in one spot. The goal is to expand the bung more than the sensor thus breaking it free. Heating both bung and sensor can work as you demonstrated but can also result in failure. Expand the bung, not the sensor.
So I failed to heat up the bung and I put a 6 point on there and it started to twist but what happened is it twisted completely off and then broke the threads off and they’re stuck inside….. so what would I need to do at that point? Heat and an easy out??
Quick question, is the “what to look for in a used truck” video coming out soon? I remember you talked about it when you had a white super duty in a short recently
I have a strange one going on with my 2019 f250 6.7 platinum short bed I have a def fluid leak in my cab! Everyone says this is impossible, but somehow I need confirmation. Because if it is impossible, then the dealer spilled a bunch on def fluid on the passenger floor board and somehow cleaned it up so I didn't see until it started crystallizing thru my carpet! Can anyone steer me towards a source for an answer? thanks
PB Blaster has always worked great for me as a penitent!
My DPF is probably pretty corroded... since it has been in the woods behind my house for the last 3 years 🤷🏻♂️
But thanks for all the work you put into your videos. You have a video pretty much fixing everything, and it's invaluable to your viewers
Had EGT Sensor #1 fail while traveling through Alaska this summer and I have been putting off replacing it. This was a fantastic demo of what to do if the sensor does not come out nicely and helps give me the confidence to get under there and get it replaced. Thanks for another great video!
I wish ya the best of luck pal!
Great description of the work you performed. I've used Kroil for years. Hard to beat it.
Thanks Bro. I need to change #2 and this video helped a lot. Hoping it goes easy for me
My egt’s came out alright, as you instructed, but had to take her to a shop for my PM sensor. Had to have a new bung welded in for that one. Didn’t realize there was 15M02 or I’d have had the dealer handle my egt sensors, but they weren’t too expensive, the PM sensor wasn’t cheap, but wasn’t too bad really. Gold sensor safe anti-seize used on them all so hopefully next time they all come out easy!
You did it the right way. nice work
PB Blaster usually treats me well.
For those DIYers who don't have access to an oxy/acetylene rig there is a better alternative to propane or plain MAP. Bernzomatic makes a small portable MAP/oxy rig. I have had success in using one for situations like this. They are available at Home Depot, Lowe's etc. Buy an extra oxygen bottle as they tend to use the oxygen quicker than the MAP. I can see where the bung would twist off as it is only attached to relatively thin exhaust tubing. It may help to grip the bung with a small pipe wrench to counteract the torque applied by the ratchet to prevent twisting the bung off. This is the first time I have seen threads peel off of a sensor. The hex and threaded portion must be made of a soft material. I'd apply a little copper anti seize to the new sensor. My go to penetrant is PB Blaster. A local old time independent shop owner I know likes Kroil or Deep Creep.
I just changed EGT12 and noticed what a cluster-F changing EGT13 is going to be unless I drop the DPF assembly. Even without peeling threads. Wtf Ford? I kroiled them all just in case.
Thanks for the video of this thing on the bench.
Quick tip for rust belt mechanics. The point of heat is to expand the bung only. Defeats the purpose of using heat if you’re expanding what you want to thread out with what it’s being threaded out of. Try tightening slightly before loosening.
Thanks for the tap size. 8mmx1.25. Haven't seen threads pull out like that until now. Should be able to run a tap on those threads and good to go.
Yesirrrr
Did this size work? Mine is either a 11x1.25 or 12x1.25.
m12x1.25 is correct tap rual king has them i made a flat bottom and started with regular
THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO I SAW ONE THAT THEY REMOVED THE TRANSMISSION TO GET TO IT LMAO
Thanks ARod, I think I’m going to start spraying my sensors periodically with Kroil. Maybe every oil change while I’m there. When replacing put some copper anti seize on the threads?
Drop the socket on the breaker bar in liquid nitrogen till you need it. It will cool the sensor shrinking it while the threaded bung stays cherry red and expanded.
Great idea!!! 👍. Heat the female threads, which expands ;while freezing the male threads; shrinking it 😮! Sounds perfect, in theory…! Where do u buy Liq. nitrogen?? Great info! 👍
Thanks for the tips, I use liquid rench. Thanks for sharing ARod u the best.
I've had decent success with WD40 Blue Torch penetrate. No issues removing EGT 11 several years ago, to relocate/reuse.
Sounds silly, but I had a Ford mechanic tell me to use brake fluid on exhaust parts to loosen them. Worked for me sometimes.
Great info, but mine twisted off and left all the threaded part in the bung. Now I'm guessing the bung will need to be replaced, but that's not going to be easy with the system still on the truck (2008 F550 Dually 4x4 flatbed)
Guys Knowledge is really good and he knows his way around the 6.7 but lightning the torch with a little cigarette lighter🙁
....im sorry maybe sticks and stones is what I should have used, you know like making a camp 🔥
You can't easily light your cigarettes, pipe, charcoal grill or campfire with a spark striker. The Bic multi-purpose and thus superior in my opinion. Just watch out for your thumb.
Thanks for another great video man! Was wondering if you think it's worth being proactive with these sensors and removing them before they get stuck in and applying a copper anti-seize then re-install? My new 2022 has less than 5K on it and I'm sure they'd come out pretty easily now but like anything I'm sure there is some risk of breakage (thinking spark plugs). If they are accessible with the DPF still installed (haven't checked yet) it wouldn't take long and I'm all about preventative maintenance!
Hey pal!!!!! Yes you can & they'd come right out for sure
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Perfect! It's on the to-do list! Thank you.
I had a failed soot sensor at the tail pipe. I used acetylene with no such luck, and ended up having to drop the tail pipe and have a bung welded on. Those EGT sensor look a lot better to deal with over the particulate matter sensor. Be very careful and remain patient when dealing with these exhaust systems. As A-Rod stated they don’t offer replacement parts on the smalls. Ford wants to sell you expensive replacement components.
Those PM sensors...🤨🤨🤨
Man that’s the same thing that happened with my 2015. The nut flats on the pm sensor fell apart when I placed a wrench on it. Ordered a new bung and sensor and had my shop do it as I don’t have a welder. He removed the axle-back section and two bolts rusted out and. Welded up the old bung and put the new one right next to it. I’d have thought the egt 1-1, 1-2, and 1-3 would’ve had higher heat-cool cycles and gave more of a fight, but they came out fairly easy. Used some rust penetrant, unplugged the sensors, cut them and used a socket like Arod shows here, and he instructed me on the phone. I also live in southeast VA so we don’t have THAT big of an issue with rust, although we still have some, albeit nowhere near as bad as MI does lol. Also used the copper “sensor-safe” anti-seize on the new ones. Soot sensor had grey anti-seize on the threads already, but added some of the copper to it. As soon as I can afford the kit I’m deleting this crap off of my duty. My 2015 only has 56k miles on her. That is if we’ve even got diesel at all next year lol
Lmao…when a dirty look doesn’t get you anywhere.
@@KendrasEdge757 Same exact thing happened to my 15. The PM sensor nut broke in two so I picked up a new DPF back exhaust instead.
Any videos regarding P0402? Got if on my 19.
Local diesel mechanic swapped egr cooler, egr valve, map sensor, cleaned out all the intakes, replaced filter. Still getting power loss and throwing code again.
I mean 4k later and it's still jacked up...
Bri g it by, I'll fix it
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARodI'd have to fly the truck there somehow.
What's that address?
You can feel the metal twisting better with a wrench better than a ratchet.
You should try to get the bung cherry red and only in one spot. The goal is to expand the bung more than the sensor thus breaking it free. Heating both bung and sensor can work as you demonstrated but can also result in failure. Expand the bung, not the sensor.
I know. I cat was already eff'ed & didn't care
Pre-lubing like pre-gaming can't be a bad idea, can it?
Tru dat
Can you not use standard anti-seize on sensors when reinstalling them?
Gotta have ones good for sensors
2015 ford f250 6.7 changed both fuel filters. now got a P01C6 code. Fuel Press Sensor A Circuit High. What would be the problem???
We'd have 2 go thru the pin point tests
Do you know what the part number is for the probe?
a link for that bung would be nice
Im sorry. Type in that name brah👍
my egt sensor at ambient temperature gives 0.1 ohm reading on a multimiter...is it busted?trouble code says short to positive or open circuit. ta
I'd have to measure a good one. I'm not sure what the resistance of it is supposed to read
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod the datasheet says it should read 140 to 200 at 0c ...but it doesn't. Only moves after using a heat gun past 200c
@meguinness1116 time for a sensor
How many miles does the truck have on it, just wondering when these diesels are starting to have sensor issues
The mileage here is not the issue not anyone truck starts to have problems at a certain mileage
I heat them then quench with water and then they usually come right out
So I failed to heat up the bung and I put a 6 point on there and it started to twist but what happened is it twisted completely off and then broke the threads off and they’re stuck inside….. so what would I need to do at that point? Heat and an easy out??
New bung time
@11:53 are those corrosion holes in the DPF body?
Looks like it.
I guess I'd break out the welder and seal that up. Good idea or not?
No holes broski
This makes me want to go remove mine and reinstall with a little anti-seize for preventive maintenance. 111k and still on my original sensors…
Yea babe
I think 111k is past being preventative. Especially since you can't use a standard 6 pt socket.
A 2016 under warranty still!? This because of the 21E01 recall?
Nevermind...responded too quickly
Ordering 2023 F-250 tomorrow bumed I cant get the new 6.8 gasser in a Lariat only can get 7.3 sucks
Do you have a video for p0247 bank 1 sensor 1 ford 6.7 powerstroke 2011?
Thats not a bank 1 sensor 1 code there fella
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod what is it
I stand corrected it is a 2047
Knew it....
What's the part number on these sensors? Are all four ideally the same (EGT 1-4)?
Yes
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Thanks! Do you know the part numbers?
AC3Z 5J213 C
Quick question, is the “what to look for in a used truck” video coming out soon? I remember you talked about it when you had a white super duty in a short recently
Video is out next week. 🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙 its a goodie too!!!
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod hell yes
Let's see you use the inductor on that bad boy next time.
I wish u could work on my truck let me know if you ever come to Canada
Ive had some canucks come see me, so should u!
where are they located
I would have used a 24 inch 1/2" drive ratchet on it for the torque. Probably can't do that when its on the truck though.
I have a strange one going on with my 2019 f250 6.7 platinum short bed
I have a def fluid leak in my cab!
Everyone says this is impossible, but somehow I need confirmation. Because if it is impossible, then the dealer spilled a bunch on def fluid on the passenger floor board and somehow cleaned it up so I didn't see until it started crystallizing thru my carpet!
Can anyone steer me towards a source for an answer? thanks
They SPILLED it! DEF does NOT go thru the cab, period.
I seen a old muffler man use tranny oil on stuck muffler rusted bolts….. but kroil is the best great bug killer too lol
Tranny oil cut with 10% acetone .. best penetrant not on the market. Apply with a syringe.
Just get rid of them
bic lighter and a oxyacetylene torch do not mix.
Crisped
Been doin it for 20 yrs....works jussss fine. I cld use a match too but...
I was hoping that was your DPF system gone Bye Bye. I buy Kroil.
isn't it a 12mm x 1.25 ?????? not 8mm