Oofff! I would have cleaned that area with brake clean before removing those lines. God bless you man for having to work on rust belt trucks! One of the reasons why I wouldn’t live up north
Man, I would have never put that bracket back the way it looked. Sand blast clean, paint, fluid film. I know you probably can't but that is just me. Thanks for sharing. Hope mine never looks like that, EVER!!! I'll probably remove the 15s and Never seize the studs. Thanks for the video, great job!!
Thanks for saving my behind. I changed my pump and I couldn’t get it to prime. Looked up this video and bingo, worked immediately. Arod saves my butt once again. Thanks brotha!
My 11 only makes that sound when it's getting time to change the filter and when the filter is changed it stops making the noise immediately. Great video as always bud. 👍
Great idea, Next time i do a secondary filter change im keeping the filter and cutting the plastic supply line to modify a hose like you did! This will make bleeding fuel filter swaps easier in the future
Thanks for that demonstration. It looks like it would be pretty straightforward if you didn't have all the rust to deal with. Shouldn't be a problem down here in the south. So glad we use sand instead of salt here.
For some reason changing my filter setup to the HSM remote CAT filter got rid of nasty growling chatter in the lift pump..But more importantly I wasn’t taking diesel showers ! Pinch the lines, drain the filter unscrew..Way faster filter change. And I think my pump is liking it- insofar as no alarming noises .
I have replaced a bunch of these over the last couple winters, It sucks doing it on the ground on your back, I stock the repair parts for those fuel lines now too, clips, o rings, etc.
That noise from the pump can also be debris in your tank clogging the draw straw. My truck ended up at ford over 10 times and they kept changing filters and that pump thinking it was doing something and the problem always came back randomly. Ford corporate refused to tell the dealers to do anything and the dealers refused to inspect the tank for me. Once my warranty was up I pulled the tank and found a piece of cardboard from the previous owner.
Ran into similar issues at buried fuel tanks. Kids often bored putting things in the tank fill or vent pipes. Good reasons to lock things aren’t always to prevent theft. One tank had a plastic bag that randomly would get sucked to the intake like. Fix ( although temporary) was to switch to the return line. However it being much higher limited the allowable fuel that could be used. Pumping out the fuel tank grabbed the plastic bag, solving the mystery.
I'm glad I don't live in the rust belt. My truck looks really good and clean. But so far pump is doing good. And I use a sharpie marked the housing little notch with bright silver to give my old eyes a good view in making sure it is fully seated.
Hey I just wanted to say thanks for the advice. The hardest line to get off was the return from the engine to the filter. One bit of a dive I’d like to offer us. Do try and drain the filter before you start. It will continue to drain either from the motor or the tank, not sure which. But thanks again
You have to tighten it up until you hit the dead stop. I recently changed both of my filters and the underside filters connection went a little further past where it was originally. I had to loosen the filter just a tad to get the connection on and then tighten it back up to the bump stop without putting stress on The wire. When you do your priming listen to your filters you can hear the are gurgling with the gas so after 6 or 8:00 proper primings you will start hearing less of this sputtering. I had to hold my starter on for about 10 to 12 seconds before the vehicle would start maybe even longer so don't be discouraged if it doesn't start right up.
On my 2016 the electrical female “spade connector” corroded. The actual pump is a quality Bosch w/SS or brass blade. The truck left me sitting a few times because of this. The worse thing is it was under warranty and the dealership either couldn’t get the pump to fail or “didn’t have a diesel mechanic”. Ford factory service itself never responded! I now carry a spare.
I hate the diesel mechanic not available excuse. There's some things that are so obvious and are just a Vehicle Thing...not a Diesel Thing or Gas Thing. I understand some specific diesel stuff that requires certification. But you can't call yourself a mechanic if you can't work on all ICE's. Could only go in during the week to get an updated programming for NOx done because diesel mechanics only work M-F and the Sat guys are all Gas only. 😂. Telling me the same programmer they use on all models, the general mechanic can't upload a simple file? Laugbable
I was thinking the same thing but then I thought if the rest of the frame looks like that bracket then that truck is not long for the world and probably not worth it.
Looks like he didn’t wanna tighten any more because of the electrical connector was already stretched out Should of been the first sign of something wrong
Why wouldn't he have known to disconnect the electrical line before taking the filter cap off...? Then reconnect it (in the original position) after the new filter is installed..? 🤔
Great vid AROD... My 13 made the same sound. I changed the filter and it sounded like normal. From the sound it was making I figured it had a restriction in the filter causing cavitation. This has happened to me on 2 occasions usually some what close to the time that the filters needed to be changed anyway.
Great video, I just wish it would have been done 2 weeks ago. Just changed a unit out on my buddies 16, but I ended up having to replace clips. Gorilla fist doesn’t always work out for the best. But excellent video showing the more “tedious” steps of this pump change.
That was obviously a 2016 you were working on. 2011 to 2015 trucks don't have that metal bracket. I'm amazed at how rusty that bracket is. I probably would have replaced it.
If you forget to bleed the air out of the system as you point out near the end of the video and the truck stalls out what has to be done to fix that new problem?
Had mine replaced twice on my 15 the pump kept sucking in air Shop determined it was warped and wasn’t sealing and first replacement was also bad luckily it was noticed before it left the shop and another one installed. Never has another issue with it
Going through this same issue. My original pump was loud so I replaced it. The NEW pump was twice as loud!!! So I had to get another fuel pump and this one is loud to. Im lost and don’t know what to do.
Mind did that when my CP4 destructed at 138000. Truck didn’t run. But with key on and pump on it made the noise. I opened it up and saw the stripper glitter and knew it was most likely the CP4.
When you replace the fuel filters do you also have to bleed the lines like you did here? I replaced mine and cycled the key 6 times for 30 seconds like the manual stated. No issues. But just wanted to ask
Step 7 of disassembly: pop tab and apply maximum violence in upward motion to fuel pump. Last one of those pumps I did, straight out of the ford box, no filter and it was missing the o-ring on the end of the water drain...must've been a Friday job.
2013 F350 6.7 Powerstrock New Motorcraft pump with filter; new upper filter; cycled 8-10times; purged inlet line at upper filter; checked all connections; still no start. Any suggestions before I call a tow truck?
overall good vid ... but maybe clean up some of the crud in the area before you start especially fuel lines and electrical connectors.. thanks and be well
I changed the fuel filters on mine and disconnected the upper line like you did to bleed it and it’s not a steady stream like this one in the video could that be. A bad pump?
You should always clean off any dirt and debris around any fuel line connection that you're going to disconnect and reconnect. I could see dirt falling as you were touching the parts of the framework there. Also you should always treat your diesel because the diesel in America is real horrible and the cp4 fuel pump is a high pressure fuel pump meaning that it will explode if any contaminants get in there.
I really want to do a sump and piggy back a fass with the factory lift pump, as well as a s&s DPK on my 2012. Filter the hell out of it before it even gets to the cp4, and again after
I love your videos but still have to ask--Do you have any 1- Kroil or other thread breaker 2- any general parts cleaner or other before breaking sensitive fuel connections 3 --a wire brush to clean the mating surfaces to aid in simply sliding the fuel pump into the bracket. When I was in HS a mechanic that worked on my then Yamaha 360 MX had transmission issues had a standing comment. Bring your engine to me clean it costs this much, bring it dirty add $75. Taught me a life lesson on keep it clean keep it running and clean EVERY part before returning it to the vehicle. I would have started by cleaning, oiling up and then wire brush the heck out of it before re-install. Just saying.
Hello, the same thing happened to me, the truck shut down and I had that noise in the pump, I changed it, it started and it didn't start anymore, any help please, thank you
Changed that fuel pump. Whenever I connect electric plug to that pump and turn key on-0 volts. Disconnect plug 12 volts. Connected straight from the battery, its pumping diesel all way to upper filter, but anyway no start. What's weird-it's don't have any codes for fuel, only code for oil temperature sensor. Any guesses? Maybe pressure regulator?
I thought I messed up my truck when I did not screw the filter on all the way. I had the low fuel pressure warning. ARod came to my rescue and told me just to tighten it up and all problems went away.
He left the bracket unhooked because he did not have the filter cap in the right position. It won’t go back in place unless the filter cap is in the correct position.
Great video! Question: His lines looked dirty on the inside after you removed them from old filter. Could those lines be cleaned out with brake or electrical cleaner prior to being out on new filter?
The new pump still sounded loud at the end of your video. Is that just how they sound? Some are just louder than others? I’m on my 2nd fuel pump in less than a week and I still can hear the fuel pump. I’m thinking about getting a 3rd pump to try. I don’t know what else to try.
I can't believe all that rust is it normal in that area of the country? I live in the southwestern desert area and don't think I've ever seen so much rust.
I changed the disel pump , but it doesn't turn on when I ignited and it does have battery power . And it show the code panel PO62A. Thank you if you will reply back .
I was wondering , I just bought a brand new 2022 f250 6.7 and I've never seen you turn on OCR on any 2022 but I was wondering it you have and if it is the same process as before?
PTT... Can't you just cycle the lower pump six or seven times, kind of like when you change the main fuel filter on it, to purge the air without having to necessarily Purge it from the top line???
Very nice video! As are all of your videos I've seen. I made this mistake! Will I have to replace my pump if I have run the truck for a few miles? Bleed the fuel line at the front filter, and ran it around the block. How do I know if the pump is toast? Thanks for the info!!
Man I’m glad I don’t live in the salt belt you need to keep a extra one that you can keep have it all ready been but in rust remover you could trade the out
I have a 19 so pump is in tank but it sounds really bad . Truck has long starts and sometimes no starts . When it does run it runs rough and has some white smoke . No codes would you drop tank and look at pump ?
I literally just did this today the truck left me stranded bc mine went completely dead but got a replacement one put it in got the air out the truck fire it up i got scared but my truck has 175k on it and is a lot of miles for the original pump
AROD, when you bled the line and finally got flow, did you keep pumping when you plugged into the upper filter or did you turn the key off? I would think we would have seen a fountain in the engine if you did. It looks like there was only a trickle once you pulled the extension off. Gonna get started in the morning!!! Thanks for the info in advance!
What can you do if you find that your clips are broken, seems that mine keeps pulling air. Also I use the out let side of the filter under the hood with not success 😢
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh ok I didn’t know that. Interesting information. I liked the video you had on the F-150 diesel a while back. I know that truck has an in tank fuel pump.
Changed my fuel filters and was driving for about 2 weeks. All of a sudden while coming off a stop, I got a low fuel pressure warning and reduced power. I have no leaks. I restarted the truck and drove another 100 miles and then it did it again. Any suggestions? The low fuel pressure warning is only in bank one.
So I just replaced my lift pump last night. 2012 F250 6.7L. I primed the system doing my 30 second 6 time intervals, filled up the new canister with a little bit of diesel just what I was told to do.. As I was priming the lift pump got louder. Anyways. I went to start and nothing. Just crank crank crank.. I found a different video on RUclips and the guy said to disconnect the other line next to the one you disconnected and he used an empty Coca Cola bottle to “burp the air out” as he put it. So I tried that and when I cycled the key Diesel just poured out into the bottle and then I tried to plug it back in and start it and Nothing happens just kept cranking. So I then try to disconnect the Same line and diesel just shot out 😂 so I plugged it back up and tried to crank again. Nothing. Now here I am and im seeing your video. I hope this works. Im going to try to rig up the same set up with that hose and plastic fitting from the engine canister and see if I can get it to bleed out the fuel in the too of the engine as you said. Hopefully it works and starts right up. Or I could have a faulty lift pump that I purchased lol. Back to the drawing board ✍️
I went with an aftermarket one (Precision) from Oreilley’s. Only because it was half the price of Motor craft and life time warranty. Rather than a 2 year warranty with OEM. I might try what you did though and see if that fixes it first. If not then I might try to return it and get my money back and just get the OEM pump.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i gotcha lol. Yeah I found the OEM one and I can install it today. If you care I’ll update you on how it goes. .. BTW.. can you please explain to me this? So once I put the new one in with the filter. Should I be good to just go ahead and prime the system 30 second 6 intervals with the key on/off cycle? Then try to start it? Or should I then bleed out the air on both lines up front with the canister like how you did with that hose in this video? Then when I have clean fuel flowing. Connect my two lines and then try to start it? I just want to do it right man and not mess things up you know?
Oofff! I would have cleaned that area with brake clean before removing those lines. God bless you man for having to work on rust belt trucks! One of the reasons why I wouldn’t live up north
Man, I would have never put that bracket back the way it looked. Sand blast clean, paint, fluid film. I know you probably can't but that is just me. Thanks for sharing. Hope mine never looks like that, EVER!!! I'll probably remove the 15s and Never seize the studs. Thanks for the video, great job!!
It’s rust belt county,, that’s normal
Thanks for saving my behind. I changed my pump and I couldn’t get it to prime. Looked up this video and bingo, worked immediately. Arod saves my butt once again. Thanks brotha!
My 11 only makes that sound when it's getting time to change the filter and when the filter is changed it stops making the noise immediately. Great video as always bud. 👍
What does it mean when you change it and it starts making that noise
Great idea, Next time i do a secondary filter change im keeping the filter and cutting the plastic supply line to modify a hose like you did! This will make bleeding fuel filter swaps easier in the future
Thanks for that demonstration. It looks like it would be pretty straightforward if you didn't have all the rust to deal with. Shouldn't be a problem down here in the south. So glad we use sand instead of salt here.
Glad I live in Southern Alabama. The underside of my 2011 Powerstroke looks almost new, no rust. A good sandblast would help
you should see my 99 i live in northwest florida panhandle no rust at allll lol
I live in TX and my 14 looks like new as well.
The purps have returned. Someone did a crap job on that pump. Toasted it. Job well done sir
Hey yoooo
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod I didn't mean that someone was you. You did a fantastic job.
Nope i followed
For some reason changing my filter setup to the HSM remote CAT filter got rid of nasty growling chatter in the lift pump..But more importantly I wasn’t taking diesel showers ! Pinch the lines, drain the filter unscrew..Way faster filter change. And I think my pump is liking it- insofar as no alarming noises .
I have replaced a bunch of these over the last couple winters, It sucks doing it on the ground on your back, I stock the repair parts for those fuel lines now too, clips, o rings, etc.
Yepppp
That noise from the pump can also be debris in your tank clogging the draw straw. My truck ended up at ford over 10 times and they kept changing filters and that pump thinking it was doing something and the problem always came back randomly. Ford corporate refused to tell the dealers to do anything and the dealers refused to inspect the tank for me. Once my warranty was up I pulled the tank and found a piece of cardboard from the previous owner.
Ran into similar issues at buried fuel tanks. Kids often bored putting things in the tank fill or vent pipes. Good reasons to lock things aren’t always to prevent theft. One tank had a plastic bag that randomly would get sucked to the intake like. Fix ( although temporary) was to switch to the return line. However it being much higher limited the allowable fuel that could be used. Pumping out the fuel tank grabbed the plastic bag, solving the mystery.
I'm glad I don't live in the rust belt. My truck looks really good and clean. But so far pump is doing good. And I use a sharpie marked the housing little notch with bright silver to give my old eyes a good view in making sure it is fully seated.
As "Customer states what" would say that bracket has some flavor
Looks like a quick trip to the pressure washer would remove rust and dirt from bracket, making it cleaner and easier to work with.
Then you have to wait for it to dry off.
Nobody's paying to do an undercarriage wash before every job. Ive worked on way dirtier trucks without ever considering wasting time to wash it first.
......okay
Hey
I just wanted to say thanks for the advice. The hardest line to get off was the return from the engine to the filter. One bit of a dive I’d like to offer us. Do try and drain the filter before you start. It will continue to drain either from the motor or the tank, not sure which. But thanks again
Your the best, I always tune for Friday School lessons ✌️
Wooooowoooo🤘
Great video, thanks for showing how to undo the connectors lol some of us need that😂
Stay tuned, cuz we have a video coming oit that shows ALL connectors & lines
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod awesome! Thanks
You have to tighten it up until you hit the dead stop. I recently changed both of my filters and the underside filters connection went a little further past where it was originally. I had to loosen the filter just a tad to get the connection on and then tighten it back up to the bump stop without putting stress on The wire. When you do your priming listen to your filters you can hear the are gurgling with the gas so after 6 or 8:00 proper primings you will start hearing less of this sputtering. I had to hold my starter on for about 10 to 12 seconds before the vehicle would start maybe even longer so don't be discouraged if it doesn't start right up.
time fore new pump maybe or filter Yes Aaron. you do it the right way. nice work
I’ve said it before; this is why I marked mine with a paint pen before I changed the filter
On my 2016 the electrical female “spade connector” corroded. The actual pump is a quality Bosch w/SS or brass blade. The truck left me sitting a few times because of this. The worse thing is it was under warranty and the dealership either couldn’t get the pump to fail or “didn’t have a diesel mechanic”. Ford factory service itself never responded! I now carry a spare.
I hate the diesel mechanic not available excuse. There's some things that are so obvious and are just a Vehicle Thing...not a Diesel Thing or Gas Thing. I understand some specific diesel stuff that requires certification. But you can't call yourself a mechanic if you can't work on all ICE's.
Could only go in during the week to get an updated programming for NOx done because diesel mechanics only work M-F and the Sat guys are all Gas only. 😂. Telling me the same programmer they use on all models, the general mechanic can't upload a simple file? Laugbable
Oh the rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrust!! lol lol Have a great weekend, call you next week!!
This is excellent how to. Very well done. It is a great help. Thank you 😅
I would have quoted the customer the new bracket as well 😅 that is too damned rusted away 💀
I was thinking the same thing but then I thought if the rest of the frame looks like that bracket then that truck is not long for the world and probably not worth it.
Great camera work and lighting!
Looks like he didn’t wanna tighten any more because of the electrical connector was already stretched out Should of been the first sign of something wrong
Why wouldn't he have known to disconnect the electrical line before taking the filter cap off...? Then reconnect it (in the original position) after the new filter is installed..? 🤔
Hence y were here🤔
Ey buddy thanks so much thanks to you i fix my problem, ( low pressure fuel) the fuel pump was the problem thanks again
Yo tengo un problema con mi fort 350 no me kiere encender
Por dias y un mecanico me dijo q era la bonba me puede ayudar
Fantastic video saved my ass! Thank You.
Great vid AROD... My 13 made the same sound. I changed the filter and it sounded like normal. From the sound it was making I figured it had a restriction in the filter causing cavitation. This has happened to me on 2 occasions usually some what close to the time that the filters needed to be changed anyway.
Great video, I just wish it would have been done 2 weeks ago. Just changed a unit out on my buddies 16, but I ended up having to replace clips. Gorilla fist doesn’t always work out for the best. But excellent video showing the more “tedious” steps of this pump change.
What was the reason or issues they were having other then the loud whining noise? Was truck shaking or running rough?
That was obviously a 2016 you were working on. 2011 to 2015 trucks don't have that metal bracket. I'm amazed at how rusty that bracket is. I probably would have replaced it.
Both my 13 and 15 both had the bracket and both were fx4 packages. Maybe it was part of the package
Very good video ARod, I just couldn't get over all that rust. How many miles on truck. Thanks for sharing like the step by step
If you forget to bleed the air out of the system as you point out near the end of the video and the truck stalls out what has to be done to fix that new problem?
U must remove that line like i did, & you all will probably have a mess to clean up
Thanks brother, saved me lots of time and $.
Thank you!
Had mine replaced twice on my 15 the pump kept sucking in air Shop determined it was warped and wasn’t sealing and first replacement was also bad luckily it was noticed before it left the shop and another one installed. Never has another issue with it
Going through this same issue. My original pump was loud so I replaced it. The NEW pump was twice as loud!!! So I had to get another fuel pump and this one is loud to. Im lost and don’t know what to do.
Mind did that when my CP4 destructed at 138000. Truck didn’t run. But with key on and pump on it made the noise. I opened it up and saw the stripper glitter and knew it was most likely the CP4.
When you replace the fuel filters do you also have to bleed the lines like you did here? I replaced mine and cycled the key 6 times for 30 seconds like the manual stated. No issues. But just wanted to ask
Step 7 of disassembly: pop tab and apply maximum violence in upward motion to fuel pump.
Last one of those pumps I did, straight out of the ford box, no filter and it was missing the o-ring on the end of the water drain...must've been a Friday job.
😭😭😭😭😭
Is it ok to use diesel as lubricant to push the fittings back together?
Absolutely
2013 F350 6.7 Powerstrock New Motorcraft pump with filter; new upper filter; cycled 8-10times; purged inlet line at upper filter; checked all connections; still no start. Any suggestions before I call a tow truck?
R u sure you got the air out of that pump. U need to cycle key with that yellow line off the filter
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod Did that but didn't have that nifty connector you had. Just jambed some fuel line in and of course it went everywhere.
@tonymccargar774 save ur old filter end
overall good vid ... but maybe clean up some of the crud in the area before you start especially fuel lines and electrical connectors.. thanks and be well
I changed the fuel filters on mine and disconnected the upper line like you did to bleed it and it’s not a steady stream like this one in the video could that be. A bad pump?
Did this just because. I do get a air noise when very low on fuel goes away after adding a few gallons
You should always clean off any dirt and debris around any fuel line connection that you're going to disconnect and reconnect. I could see dirt falling as you were touching the parts of the framework there. Also you should always treat your diesel because the diesel in America is real horrible and the cp4 fuel pump is a high pressure fuel pump meaning that it will explode if any contaminants get in there.
I really want to do a sump and piggy back a fass with the factory lift pump, as well as a s&s DPK on my 2012. Filter the hell out of it before it even gets to the cp4, and again after
What’s the reason for the return going through the pump/filter I wonder?
I love your videos but still have to ask--Do you have any 1- Kroil or other thread breaker 2- any general parts cleaner or other before breaking sensitive fuel connections 3 --a wire brush to clean the mating surfaces to aid in simply sliding the fuel pump into the bracket. When I was in HS a mechanic that worked on my then Yamaha 360 MX had transmission issues had a standing comment. Bring your engine to me clean it costs this much, bring it dirty add $75. Taught me a life lesson on keep it clean keep it running and clean EVERY part before returning it to the vehicle. I would have started by cleaning, oiling up and then wire brush the heck out of it before re-install. Just saying.
Hello, the same thing happened to me, the truck shut down and I had that noise in the pump, I changed it, it started and it didn't start anymore, any help please, thank you
Changed that fuel pump. Whenever I connect electric plug to that pump and turn key on-0 volts. Disconnect plug 12 volts. Connected straight from the battery, its pumping diesel all way to upper filter, but anyway no start. What's weird-it's don't have any codes for fuel, only code for oil temperature sensor. Any guesses? Maybe pressure regulator?
Interia switch?
I thought I messed up my truck when I did not screw the filter on all the way. I had the low fuel pressure warning. ARod came to my rescue and told me just to tighten it up and all problems went away.
Oh yeeeeeah...i 4got i had the video when that all transpired
Is it normal to have a sound at all? Mine has a light sound. Or is it suppose to be silent normally?
Suppose to have s light him hiss noise to it.
Best video bud thx
He left the bracket unhooked because he did not have the filter cap in the right position. It won’t go back in place unless the filter cap is in the correct position.
Great video! Question: His lines looked dirty on the inside after you removed them from old filter. Could those lines be cleaned out with brake or electrical cleaner prior to being out on new filter?
Yes
I hope this isn't too stupid of a question, but can you tell me if the fuel pump on the 2018 6.7L is located on the frame rail or in the tank? Thx!
In tank...
The new pump still sounded loud at the end of your video. Is that just how they sound? Some are just louder than others? I’m on my 2nd fuel pump in less than a week and I still can hear the fuel pump. I’m thinking about getting a 3rd pump to try. I don’t know what else to try.
I can't believe all that rust is it normal in that area of the country? I live in the southwestern desert area and don't think I've ever seen so much rust.
Detroit homie...
Wherever it snows, you'll see that.
Looks like it needs a sand blaster and some rattle can.
I changed the disel pump , but it doesn't turn on when I ignited and it does have battery power . And it show the code panel PO62A. Thank you if you will reply back .
My pump shit the bed when I heard that noise
Well that was great 👍
Is the lift pump between tank and filter, or after the filter between filter and engine? Just curious
If you break the odd ball clip where can you get a replacement. I've tried everywhere and cannot find a match
Only COMES with a line, no clips
I was wondering , I just bought a brand new 2022 f250 6.7 and I've never seen you turn on OCR on any 2022 but I was wondering it you have and if it is the same process as before?
Watch our 20 OCR same thing. If you need it done remotely, EMAIL US
Can’t get the hose off it’s the white clip won’t compress
Been working on it for couple hours thinking about cutting the end off the pump housing then working on the clip
Watch the video we just made about the connectors
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod 10:12
I've done it in a hotel parking lot after my truck rolled down a hill backwards 🤣🤣🤣🤣.
Mine has absolutely no sound over all as it normally would when I turn the key prior to starting it could this still be the issue why it won't start
Yes!!
Do you know a good shop in Salem Oregen for Ford SD 2017
Sry I do not
PTT... Can't you just cycle the lower pump six or seven times, kind of like when you change the main fuel filter on it, to purge the air without having to necessarily Purge it from the top line???
Yes, that top line MUST be removed...or you ll never get rid of that air pocket. Crank, start...run stall.....crank no start now...
Having a problem with my fuel line buzzing under the hood changed both filters still have the problem I am lost
Very nice video! As are all of your videos I've seen. I made this mistake! Will I have to replace my pump if I have run the truck for a few miles? Bleed the fuel line at the front filter, and ran it around the block. How do I know if the pump is toast? Thanks for the info!!
...i am not understanding your query
Man I’m glad I don’t live in the salt belt you need to keep a extra one that you can keep have it all ready been but in rust remover you could trade the out
Crusty and Rusty, DANG!
I have a 2016 king ranch
350 is this applicable to my truck ?
The answer is in the video title hombré
What connector did you use for makeshift hose to get air out?
Cut am old filter port off...
Is there another way if you don't have a hose like yours?
Leave the line off and cycle the key & make a mess everywhere
I have a 19 so pump is in tank but it sounds really bad . Truck has long starts and sometimes no starts . When it does run it runs rough and has some white smoke . No codes would you drop tank and look at pump ?
I would be getting a scan tool so that you can monitor the fuel rail pressure and the pressure coming out of fuel pump
@ I have one and all pressures are correct .
@dirta2315 all of the pressures can't be correct or you wouldn't be having a problem.....better bring it in.
@ fuel rail pressure and pressure desired is exactly the same . Low pressure is always above 50 psi .
Better start the flow chart, no use guessing
Wow. Great fix. Now we know! I wish I could have you install a new engine in my 1996 Bronco.
I literally just did this today the truck left me stranded bc mine went completely dead but got a replacement one put it in got the air out the truck fire it up i got scared but my truck has 175k on it and is a lot of miles for the original pump
AROD, when you bled the line and finally got flow, did you keep pumping when you plugged into the upper filter or did you turn the key off? I would think we would have seen a fountain in the engine if you did. It looks like there was only a trickle once you pulled the extension off. Gonna get started in the morning!!! Thanks for the info in advance!
Yes, soon as flow starts shut it down then connect
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod You are the man. Soooo glad I found this channel!!!!
Tell your friends man, we bout to go on a Ford repair tour!
like your videos but why didnt you reinstall that bracket properly?
It was busted, customer didnt want to replace whole housing...
16:17 - Part Comes with Fuel Filter!
Do they offer a new bracket?
I don't know if ford sells that separately, they might
A wire brush would have helped with the rust.. a lot wiser than tapping it in and risk breaking it. 😊
mileage?
Ptt what do u think about the HSM lower filter housing for the 2011 to the 2016
Hmmmm
What can you do if you find that your clips are broken, seems that mine keeps pulling air. Also I use the out let side of the filter under the hood with not success 😢
Pretty sure those are only serviced with lines
Couldn’t just hook a hose up to the left side of the fuel filter turn the key till fuel comes out
Lot of rust. I wonder why wasn’t that fuel lift pump wasn’t mounted in the fuel tank.
The 1st year for in tank pumps was 17 broski.
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod oh ok I didn’t know that. Interesting information. I liked the video you had on the F-150 diesel a while back. I know that truck has an in tank fuel pump.
Can’t you just prime the pump by cycling the key like 10 times too? Most of us don’t have a fancy pipe to hose connection.
No.....that line MUST be removed to get the air lock out.
What is the psi of the pump running using just a scanner to command on?
How long does it take to replace the lift pump?
60ish
I dunno depends who is doing it
Changed my fuel filters and was driving for about 2 weeks. All of a sudden while coming off a stop, I got a low fuel pressure warning and reduced power. I have no leaks. I restarted the truck and drove another 100 miles and then it did it again. Any suggestions? The low fuel pressure warning is only in bank one.
That happened to me as well so I went ahead and replaced the lift pump. Any update on your situation?
@@theforkliftguy yes I found i had one more turn on the bottom fuel filter. Once I did that it quiet down a little and haven't had a problem since
@@iacobaccci nice. 👍🏼
I have the same sound. changed pump twice one from ORielly's and then a Motorcraft from Ford. Same noise. HELP!!! 2015 F250 6.7
Same here. I put my second pump in today and I still get the noise. Did you ever have any luck fixing yours? Thanks.
Did you get my reply? I don't see it here.@@Chop1818
angry banshee lol
So I just replaced my lift pump last night. 2012 F250 6.7L. I primed the system doing my 30 second 6 time intervals, filled up the new canister with a little bit of diesel just what I was told to do.. As I was priming the lift pump got louder. Anyways. I went to start and nothing. Just crank crank crank.. I found a different video on RUclips and the guy said to disconnect the other line next to the one you disconnected and he used an empty Coca Cola bottle to “burp the air out” as he put it. So I tried that and when I cycled the key Diesel just poured out into the bottle and then I tried to plug it back in and start it and Nothing happens just kept cranking. So I then try to disconnect the Same line and diesel just shot out 😂 so I plugged it back up and tried to crank again. Nothing. Now here I am and im seeing your video. I hope this works. Im going to try to rig up the same set up with that hose and plastic fitting from the engine canister and see if I can get it to bleed out the fuel in the too of the engine as you said. Hopefully it works and starts right up. Or I could have a faulty lift pump that I purchased lol. Back to the drawing board ✍️
I have heard issues with after market fuel pumps. I hope you bought a ford one....
I went with an aftermarket one (Precision) from Oreilley’s. Only because it was half the price of Motor craft and life time warranty. Rather than a 2 year warranty with OEM. I might try what you did though and see if that fixes it first. If not then I might try to return it and get my money back and just get the OEM pump.
@Ceja-gc5hw .......side not fun Fact.....Precision is THEE worst quality, I can assure u of that
@@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod i gotcha lol. Yeah I found the OEM one and I can install it today. If you care I’ll update you on how it goes. .. BTW.. can you please explain to me this? So once I put the new one in with the filter. Should I be good to just go ahead and prime the system 30 second 6 intervals with the key on/off cycle? Then try to start it? Or should I then bleed out the air on both lines up front with the canister like how you did with that hose in this video? Then when I have clean fuel flowing. Connect my two lines and then try to start it? I just want to do it right man and not mess things up you know?
Most likely returning the PRECISION one and getting my money back. Thanks for the info.
Mine is doing exactly that i replaced with new it still does it i replaced again and STILL DOING IT truck will not start
Did u bleed the air out
@PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod yes I did only thing I can think of is it's sucking air somewhere
Needs a new pump cradle lol
Dang I would have wanted a new bracket. 😆 that sucker be nasty. The customer a tight wad or what?
Yeppp
👍