Hi Zac! I have my LEDs installed in my 2013 Dodge Dart taillights, hooked up to a CorsoMotion sequencer, everything is working beautifully. Now it’s time to reseal the light and I have a big question for you. Ive watched every video of yours on opening up and resealing tail lights and headlights and it seems like there’s a few different methods, between plasticweld and silicone, shoe goo and silicone, and morimoto retro rubber. Anyway what determines which method you use to reseal which lamp assembly? From what I gathered, retrorubber butyl seems to work best if you have the “valley” or “trough” on your back housing. (I do not) Plastic weld seems best if your cuts are super super thin and precise. I have a few bigger gaps because when I cut the lights open I didn’t know what I was doing, and I used a deemed with a Pittsburgh saw blade. Some gaps are as big as 2 to 3mm. And shoe goo seems best if you can’t really use heat. I bought Goop and GE silicone 2, and the process seems simple. I’m also wondering why you only apply the goop in spots and not the entire perimeter of the lamp. And when you apply the silicone are you trying to really get into and in between the cuts? Or are you applying it only on the outside surface over top the cuts? Thank you for your time as always, this was a long comment and I always appreciate you responding with great detail. I’ve left over a dozen comments on your channel and every response from you has been incredible. You are easily the most involved and helpful creator on RUclips.
hey! thats awesome that your almost done!! ive for sure been there with a new light that I haven't opened up before. and what I try to do is plastic weld everywhere that is able to be plastic weld but making sure that the back housing will still sit "OEM" where there is a bigger gap ill use some of the goop (as an extra security) to cover up the bigger gaps once it cures up ill silicone everything to keep the water out.
@@zaccook have you tried using JB plastic weld? I’m guessing it just adds some material that was lost and then you have to plastic weld it. And will a soldering iron work as a plastic welder or will it be too hot? I’ve seen someone do that once and it seemed to work for them.
Hi Zach! Just the vid I was looking for, thank you :)
Did you notice if the red lenses have dye is mixed into the plastic or if they can be whitened?
Hi Zac!
I have my LEDs installed in my 2013 Dodge Dart taillights, hooked up to a CorsoMotion sequencer, everything is working beautifully. Now it’s time to reseal the light and I have a big question for you.
Ive watched every video of yours on opening up and resealing tail lights and headlights and it seems like there’s a few different methods, between plasticweld and silicone, shoe goo and silicone, and morimoto retro rubber.
Anyway what determines which method you use to reseal which lamp assembly?
From what I gathered, retrorubber butyl seems to work best if you have the “valley” or “trough” on your back housing. (I do not)
Plastic weld seems best if your cuts are super super thin and precise. I have a few bigger gaps because when I cut the lights open I didn’t know what I was doing, and I used a deemed with a Pittsburgh saw blade. Some gaps are as big as 2 to 3mm.
And shoe goo seems best if you can’t really use heat.
I bought Goop and GE silicone 2, and the process seems simple. I’m also wondering why you only apply the goop in spots and not the entire perimeter of the lamp.
And when you apply the silicone are you trying to really get into and in between the cuts? Or are you applying it only on the outside surface over top the cuts?
Thank you for your time as always, this was a long comment and I always appreciate you responding with great detail. I’ve left over a dozen comments on your channel and every response from you has been incredible. You are easily the most involved and helpful creator on RUclips.
hey! thats awesome that your almost done!! ive for sure been there with a new light that I haven't opened up before. and what I try to do is plastic weld everywhere that is able to be plastic weld but making sure that the back housing will still sit "OEM"
where there is a bigger gap ill use some of the goop (as an extra security) to cover up the bigger gaps once it cures up ill silicone everything to keep the water out.
@@zaccook have you tried using JB plastic weld? I’m guessing it just adds some material that was lost and then you have to plastic weld it. And will a soldering iron work as a plastic welder or will it be too hot? I’ve seen someone do that once and it seemed to work for them.
Rip spidey 😞😞😞
🤷 "Promo sm"
What?