While the videos are short. I appreciate the dept you go into them in the time you do explaining stuff. You explain what they're for, how they work and why you have them. Its not just a "look at these baller parts" video.
man, this is why i love watching one trick ponies, very specialized and specific work or passion projects, you learn all the little tips and tricks to make your life 100000000% easier, the kinda stuff you dont learn in a book or manual
Loving the build series!! Was wondering though, it always seems like the traction rod adjustment is a black art. Could you guys go more into detail when you align the car about how it changes the characteristics of the rear geometry?
Even though this build is clearly top notch, you manage to make it look pretty relatable. More or less just one guy working away in his garage, and using specialists for the tasks that you csnt do yourself. A lot of shows pretend they do every last aspect of the build all themselves, or opposite that they need an entire team just to change the oil.
Thanks for the support. We wish we could work on cars more than a day a week but we have bills to pay with our corporate video work. We'll get there. Need to be a realist. Sometimes you need an expert to the job properly
I do not mind the specialists to do their part, the weekly cadence on this build is awesome. Otherwise you get something like Binky which drags on for years. BTW I really like this series so far, thanks for making these videos Andrew!
Gktech does make a rear drop knuckle for S/R/Z chassis that works on GT-R/300ZX, the only thing is you need to swap the lower mount on the coilover from the fork-type mount to the S-chassis style eyelet mount.
It’s only pressed in rubbber bushes that need to be set in the loaded position, as you can tear them and give ride height problems... poly bushes and bearings should be tightened as soon as you fit them so you don’t forget 👍
When I had my 33 it was mega unstable when braking at high speed. Fun, but no good for lap times. After a lot of adjustment I figured it was the live toe from the rear toe arms. In my case I had to raise the car slightly to flatten those out, which meant I had worse lice camber, but it was immediately 1.5 seconds faster a lap, despite compromising the COG and camber the times were just better, I wondered why there wasn't a corrector, like you did with the other arm to lower the mounting point on the sub frame which would take most of that out. It was on the cards, but I upgraded to another car before doing it.
Says "for young players" a few times but then does up nut with open spanner instead of the ring. No no Andrew haha. Apart from that is awesome and look forward to weekly updates
Wondering why you did not go with the spherical bearings in the knuckles? Loving the build footage as I am building a race only R32 for hillclimbing. I am also hoping to delete the rear e drum brake to keep things simple in the rear.
Amazing video as always! Could you do a video where bump steer and the change of toe depending on the suspension position is explained further? Greetings all the way from germany✌️
Awesome video as always! Just a quick basic suspension question... why are those top tubes curved? Is it to clear something or something else - cheers?
Excellent informative episode as always Andrew, well done mate... And is it wrong that it almost gives me a semi looking at new shiny performance parts being fitted?? 😅 lol
Hey Andrew. Have you considered the nismo suspesion extra arms kit? Installed it on my r33 gtr. Looks awesome, and ties them all in and braces. I allso have all superpro , and went with all driftworks arms. Have not changed lower controll arms yet.
Andrew, ive watched your stuff for awhile. Im interested to note the use of zinc plated bolts. you failed to mentioned nylock nuts or any type of thread locking compound. this is a lower sub-frame and bolts coming lose will happen. I respect spanner check etc and as a mechanical engineer myself, i understand torque settings but I think you should give another 'trick for young players', where you can, use nylock nuts.
Are you going to put up a video explaining what rose joints you are swapping all the gktech ones to when one inevitably breaks from them being crap quality?
@ChrisHallett83 I haven't snapped one as I won't run gktech stuff, I have seen 4 other people have the rose joints fall apart, Yes they have been on drift cars but 3 of the have been when they were either driving on the streets or driving back to pits so not a high load style of driving when they let go
was thinking the same thing considering how cheap they are. I got my folks mechanic to press some for me only to find out how much i could get a press for. Long term, especially when you have multiple cars is a saving.
Best days with new content here :-) Regarding the bolt for upper arm (the one you put in at 8:51) I noticed it's a "normal" bolt. On my GTS it has a rather large counter weight attached as a part of the bolt. Anybody know why we have this difference? Can it be binned along upgraded suspension parts?
@@MotiveVideo I'm familiar with the eccentric adjuster bolts but this one has a bit fat counterweight attached - size of a small doghnut. This is a very early R33 GTS, maybe first day of production for the R33. So it could have been done away with further up the timeline. Still interested to find out about this one.
DE3US most manufacturers use this kind of “technology” to reduce noise and vibration and is not necessary. Unless it’s a weight on a spinning part it should be fine to bin it.
I'm confused why you can't run the gktech or PSM rear drop knuckle? The only difference now that you have deleted hicas is the coilover mount. Fork v eye style. So change bottom of coilover to suit what you need? I bought the coilovers for my gtt and just changed the bottom of coilover to fit.
Not always a perfect fit Andrew. I use SuperPro on Crustida for the chassis to sway bar bushes on the front and they made me a custom one off 26mm sway bar with 27mm rubbers. I had to linish a few mm on both of the chassis bushing inners to make them fit properly. 👍
It's not just GTR's, its Skylines in general....and it's because HICAS is extremely unpredictable when you arent on a perfectly flat surface. If you're going over dips and bumps the weight raises off the wheels and they can turn when you dont want them too. So when the weight comes back down on the wheels, theyre pointing a different direction and the rear steps. In this case because its for track, last thing you want when you're hitting berm's is for the car to try and correct the rear. If you want to make it reversible, you can use lock out collars and disconnect the hicas unit on the R33. Unfortunately on the R32 its all hydraulic driven so you need to fully disable it. Personally i've had it happen on winding roads doing 120-130km/h when i've hit dips in the road while driving through bends (similar to a chicane) and it is absolutely scary af when it happens. It's like the rear of the car is on ice.
I realize you don't grease those joints but would a spray of wd40 keep them from becoming corroded? Anything suggested here with those boots or just better off dry?
The geometry of the rear suspension on these cars are so wacky, gaining positive camber and toe out with suspension travel instead of gaining negative camber and toe in.
Next time, save yourself the trouble of taking all your heim joints apart and buy a boot installation tool. www.sealsitoffroad.com/boot-installation-tool.html You're welcome.
Why buy adjustable if you're gonna run everything factory length? Only if its lighter, highly unlikely as factory are flimsy AF and light AF, reliability again oem are pretty fkn reliable they lasted 25 plus fkn years! So why TF would you run everything OE spec on aftermarket adjustable parts? wank factor? No, only to zero out and then for Adjustability FFS!
Best series on RUclips right now
*cough* Binky *cough*
Best series that posts on a less than 4 month basis? :p
@@gympee F. hahahahha
@@markcozzie I'm talking about Project Binky.
True that
Take a shot for every time he says “quick tip for young players”
The satisfaction of putting fresh parts together
While the videos are short. I appreciate the dept you go into them in the time you do explaining stuff. You explain what they're for, how they work and why you have them. Its not just a "look at these baller parts" video.
man, this is why i love watching one trick ponies, very specialized and specific work or passion projects, you learn all the little tips and tricks to make your life 100000000% easier, the kinda stuff you dont learn in a book or manual
Loving the build series!! Was wondering though, it always seems like the traction rod adjustment is a black art. Could you guys go more into detail when you align the car about how it changes the characteristics of the rear geometry?
That subframe looks gorgeous! Well done
Even though this build is clearly top notch, you manage to make it look pretty relatable. More or less just one guy working away in his garage, and using specialists for the tasks that you csnt do yourself.
A lot of shows pretend they do every last aspect of the build all themselves, or opposite that they need an entire team just to change the oil.
Thanks for the support. We wish we could work on cars more than a day a week but we have bills to pay with our corporate video work. We'll get there.
Need to be a realist. Sometimes you need an expert to the job properly
I do not mind the specialists to do their part, the weekly cadence on this build is awesome. Otherwise you get something like Binky which drags on for years. BTW I really like this series so far, thanks for making these videos Andrew!
The dust covers stretch over easy, no need to remove the rose joints
This is gonna be a bloody epic build!
this subframe looks soooooo nice mate
This channel will reach 1m in no time! This series is amazing! Great work Andrew!
Work of art, well done Andrew!
Gktech does make a rear drop knuckle for S/R/Z chassis that works on GT-R/300ZX, the only thing is you need to swap the lower mount on the coilover from the fork-type mount to the S-chassis style eyelet mount.
It looks very niiice!!
More on the that debate of tighting the bushes with the car on the ground vs raised :)
Cheers from PT
It’s only pressed in rubbber bushes that need to be set in the loaded position, as you can tear them and give ride height problems... poly bushes and bearings should be tightened as soon as you fit them so you don’t forget 👍
We know, but often the internet says otherwise
Using a vice is also another easy way to get the metal tubes to slide into the bushing.
Don't you dare to stop making this videos!
Top notch as usual
When I had my 33 it was mega unstable when braking at high speed. Fun, but no good for lap times. After a lot of adjustment I figured it was the live toe from the rear toe arms. In my case I had to raise the car slightly to flatten those out, which meant I had worse lice camber, but it was immediately 1.5 seconds faster a lap, despite compromising the COG and camber the times were just better, I wondered why there wasn't a corrector, like you did with the other arm to lower the mounting point on the sub frame which would take most of that out. It was on the cards, but I upgraded to another car before doing it.
Actually nvm your car looks pretty good 👍
Keen to see a bts on how the subframes powdercoated.
Wicked video Andrew love this tech stuff
So much knowledge, great video!
best show on youtube 👍
Tip when putting the rod through the bush put the rod in the freezer makes it so much easier
Says "for young players" a few times but then does up nut with open spanner instead of the ring. No no Andrew haha. Apart from that is awesome and look forward to weekly updates
Wondering why you did not go with the spherical bearings in the knuckles? Loving the build footage as I am building a race only R32 for hillclimbing. I am also hoping to delete the rear e drum brake to keep things simple in the rear.
I love your videos, im so envious
Amazing video as always! Could you do a video where bump steer and the change of toe depending on the suspension position is explained further?
Greetings all the way from germany✌️
I feel like having that in my lounge room !
Awesome video as always! Just a quick basic suspension question... why are those top tubes curved? Is it to clear something or something else - cheers?
Excellent informative episode as always Andrew, well done mate...
And is it wrong that it almost gives me a semi looking at new shiny performance parts being fitted?? 😅 lol
This is awesome ! .
Hey Andrew. Have you considered the nismo suspesion extra arms kit? Installed it on my r33 gtr. Looks awesome, and ties them all in and braces. I allso have all superpro , and went with all driftworks arms. Have not changed lower controll arms yet.
Nismo just over priced to us and we've done it better this way in our experience.
Yeah they are just an addition to the other arms. Not replacement. The ghtech bits looks mint 😊
Andrew, ive watched your stuff for awhile. Im interested to note the use of zinc plated bolts. you failed to mentioned nylock nuts or any type of thread locking compound. this is a lower sub-frame and bolts coming lose will happen. I respect spanner check etc and as a mechanical engineer myself, i understand torque settings but I think you should give another 'trick for young players', where you can, use nylock nuts.
Never had a Nissan bolt come loose in rear suspension, even on our time attack car. The lower arm ball joint uses nylock
Nissan uses pinched nuts. The dont come loose and are better than nylok.
Very informative 👍
Why not delrin bushings?
Are you going to put up a video explaining what rose joints you are swapping all the gktech ones to when one inevitably breaks from them being crap quality?
@ChrisHallett83 I haven't snapped one as I won't run gktech stuff, I have seen 4 other people have the rose joints fall apart, Yes they have been on drift cars but 3 of the have been when they were either driving on the streets or driving back to pits so not a high load style of driving when they let go
I know this might be a bit of a stupid question, but why don't you have a small press for this kind of work?
was thinking the same thing considering how cheap they are. I got my folks mechanic to press some for me only to find out how much i could get a press for. Long term, especially when you have multiple cars is a saving.
Best days with new content here :-)
Regarding the bolt for upper arm (the one you put in at 8:51) I noticed it's a "normal" bolt. On my GTS it has a rather large counter weight attached as a part of the bolt. Anybody know why we have this difference? Can it be binned along upgraded suspension parts?
We mention in the video why. You have an eccentric bolt to adjust camber. We got rid of that as the arm adjusts it now.
@@MotiveVideo I'm familiar with the eccentric adjuster bolts but this one has a bit fat counterweight attached - size of a small doghnut.
This is a very early R33 GTS, maybe first day of production for the R33. So it could have been done away with further up the timeline.
Still interested to find out about this one.
DE3US most manufacturers use this kind of “technology” to reduce noise and vibration and is not necessary. Unless it’s a weight on a spinning part it should be fine to bin it.
I'm confused why you can't run the gktech or PSM rear drop knuckle? The only difference now that you have deleted hicas is the coilover mount. Fork v eye style. So change bottom of coilover to suit what you need? I bought the coilovers for my gtt and just changed the bottom of coilover to fit.
You can do it, it's just not "bolt on" solution due to what you mentioned. Or just out Silvia subframe into GT-R, which some have done
Dude
Bench vise or cheap press get one yesterday XD
question, why didnt you go solid bearings in the knuckle?
p.s love this series!!
You can slip those rubber boots over on those GKtec joints while assembled... Grease?
They don't need grease and for the extra 10 minutes no need to stretch them.
@@MotiveVideo They spring back just fine.
Are you doing front GKtech suspension too? And I’m also going to get the Hicas kit for my R32, would it make the light come on?
Not always a perfect fit Andrew. I use SuperPro on Crustida for the chassis to sway bar bushes on the front and they made me a custom one off 26mm sway bar with 27mm rubbers. I had to linish a few mm on both of the chassis bushing inners to make them fit properly. 👍
Could have also got stuff done completely at wisefab. But no disagreement here.
Why do people delete Hicas on GTR’s? I love a good suspension mods video!
It's not just GTR's, its Skylines in general....and it's because HICAS is extremely unpredictable when you arent on a perfectly flat surface. If you're going over dips and bumps the weight raises off the wheels and they can turn when you dont want them too. So when the weight comes back down on the wheels, theyre pointing a different direction and the rear steps.
In this case because its for track, last thing you want when you're hitting berm's is for the car to try and correct the rear. If you want to make it reversible, you can use lock out collars and disconnect the hicas unit on the R33. Unfortunately on the R32 its all hydraulic driven so you need to fully disable it.
Personally i've had it happen on winding roads doing 120-130km/h when i've hit dips in the road while driving through bends (similar to a chicane) and it is absolutely scary af when it happens. It's like the rear of the car is on ice.
No extend studs? Figure since you already had it apart y'all would do it but I guess y'all would be running factory fitment style wheels.
Running 18x10.5 TE37 so won't need spacers
Any tips for young players in this video?
If I become rich, I want this exact car setup spec from you!
Are you going to make the car AWD?
It's a GT-R
@@MotiveVideo have you ever thought about converting an R34 GTT to a GT-R?
Yes but now people want drug money for GT4. GT-T is harder as different subframe and front suspension
Parts parts parts, it’s Christmas!
Please make the videos longer and more in depth! 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
😎
Why remote the HICAS though?
It's junk and unpredictable in highly modified GT-Rs and we don't like that feel of it. Same reason 99% of owners remove it
I think you have the camber arms on the wrong way.
Those rubber boots on those rod ends look like oxide collectors.
That maybe, however keeping out dirt and debris from your spherical joints is more imperative.
I realize you don't grease those joints but would a spray of wd40 keep them from becoming corroded? Anything suggested here with those boots or just better off dry?
The geometry of the rear suspension on these cars are so wacky, gaining positive camber and toe out with suspension travel instead of gaining negative camber and toe in.
They gain neg camber as they squat
Drool
When the spins the tie rod so fast you can't see it
Next time, save yourself the trouble of taking all your heim joints apart and buy a boot installation tool.
www.sealsitoffroad.com/boot-installation-tool.html
You're welcome.
Why buy adjustable if you're gonna run everything factory length? Only if its lighter, highly unlikely as factory are flimsy AF and light AF, reliability again oem are pretty fkn reliable they lasted 25 plus fkn years! So why TF would you run everything OE spec on aftermarket adjustable parts? wank factor? No, only to zero out and then for Adjustability FFS!
It's a starting point. We said that in video. Once all in wheels and tyres on etc then we set it up and start development.
I would like to speak to the two people that as of right now, have disliked this video to see if they are okay in the head