Hi Nick, definately found this very informative, and I agree on the 13.5 and 17.5 motors around 6A is the sweet spot, I saw you mention in a reply 4 Amps for the 21.5, from a bit of testing I am finding 4.5 Amps is probably better for that wind motor, tried it on the Fantom FR-1 and the Trinity 24K and seems to line up with where the performance was.
We run WGT-R 17.5 1s .... i was running my 17.5s at 5 to 6 amps on large open tracks...on a small local track i needed 3/10s i searched high and low for it, i ended up turning my timing back to 3.8 amps .. i picked up my 3/10 i needed ..... as the timing goes up, the power band is narrowed and pushed higher in the rpm range ... more mild timing gives better midrange torque and a wider power band.
Hi Nick, great vidio again. Just one question, you said in that video that it's possible to use the analyzer on the car without disconnecting the motor from the ESC. Is this really ok or will it burn the ESC ? It's clear that the sensor cable has to be disconnected anyway.
thanks nick for your help. I also have a question on speed controls is there a way to test the fets? Sometimes i feel my setup on my car is good but i have no punch coming out of the corner or like im not getting full power or i feel like im over geared no matter what pinion i run or maybe its the motor. What would make me lose speed like that?
+Seven 420 Hi Loss of punch as the race goes on is caused by lowering voltage of the Lipo or overheating of motor or speedo. Overgearing will give a fast car at the start, but will slow towards the end. Make sure your Lipo is the best you can get, and that it is not out of balance., especially if one cell is always lower than the other, then it will never be at its best. Check the heat of the speedo and motor after the race. Keeping them as cool as possible will give performance all the way. If the speedo is hot to touch, fit a fan (or get a more powerful one) If the motor is too hot to touch, get a more powerful fan, or change the gearing/timing. Note that some motors lose magnet strength over time, which will cause overheating as well as lack of punch. Spin the rotor over by hand and feel that the magnet is still nice and strong, and stops quickly . Some rotors will feel mushy when they go weak. Testing speed controls: It is very difficult to test if any FETs have gone down, as there are several working together. Trying to measure the short circuit current delivery is very difficult without damaging the speed control. Also it is rare to have some Fets go down, unless the speed control has been shorted or connected reverse polarity. Hope that helps. Nick
Excellent videos Nick, very informative indeed! Noting that the video is about 2 years old, does the 6A rule still apply for an R1 v16 13.5T for example?
Hi Vincent Yes, you can set up 13.5t and down to 4.5T with the 6 amp off load draw. Also you can set up motors used with a 1S lipo with this same method, by setting up with a 2S lipo.
Hi Pabula Yes it is possible to test motors as low as 4.5t to make sure they are set at the correct timing for your car and track. If you have a motor that is very good , then test it and use the readings to set other motors of the same winding to the same timing or amp draw. I will do a video to explain. race on nick
Thank you nick for the reply, and looking foward to the video =) Btw im also trying to build a load bench, mostly to test batteries, im trying to emulate a load similar to what a 10.5T motor can draw, i was thinking on using Halogen 12V 50W bulbs, how many do you suggest?
Hi Pabula You can work out how many amps by the mAh used in a race. So with 10.5T , it will use say 3000mAh in 5 minutes. That is 3 x12= 36amps average. the 12V 50W bulb will draw 4 amps. With a 2S lipo the voltage is about 8V, and current through bulb is only 2.7amps. Therefore you will need 36/2.7=13 bulbs in parrallel.
Enjoyed watching your video. I just checked the amp draw on my trinity revtech kill shot 17.5 and the most I could get was 2.9 amps. This motor can only adjust the timing so much. Faulty motor or design?
Hi Nick, love the video's for the 17.5 and the 13.5 timing to the sweet spot. My question is why would 6.0 amps be where the sweet spot is found? I race blinky on a clay oval in both the 17.5 and the 13.5 with an Associated SC10 modified/Late model body and both required the timing advanced all the way to achieve close to 6.0 amps. I am concerned that for a 4 min race I will overheat and burn up the motors. I was previously running about 35 degree timing at about 2.5 - 3.0 amps and the motor geared at 25/75 with the temps in the 160-170 range.
Forgot to mention that I am using a Trinity maxzilla d4 17.5 and a speed passion 13.5. I also found for the speed passions you need to purchase either the green or the yellow timing boards to replace the factory black board to get more timing into the motor.
Hi Bob I originally did this video for on road touring cars, which race at fast speeds. For Off-road the settings may be different, especially as the motor is enclosed and will heat up. The 6 amp spot was found to be just before the rotor losses became too great and the efficiency dropped quickly. I suggest that motors should be checked for temperature, and if too hot, and can't be cooled with a fan, then adjust the timing down , and make sure the gear ratio is correct. If the vehicle is stopping and starting, then the motor will heat up much more. If the motor exceeds 80deg C on the case, then it is too hot and will either lose power or burn out.
Hi Nick! Do you think I can set the timing approximately correct just using an ammeter inline between my battery and the ESC? Obviously there will some additional current through the ESC BEC system but if I set to 6 amps, would that be an ok poor-man's method to set the timing? On a different note, my wife thinks your voice sounds like the narrator from the snowman! :) Kind wishes, -Tom
Depending on the size of the track, and whether indoor or outdoor, the range for the FDR (final drive ratio) will be from 3.5 to 5. This is spur and pinion gear and the internal gear ratio of your car.
+Seven 420 HI No, since all the top speed controls perform very similar in Blinky mode. As long as you use the high current versions , say 100Amp or more, there will be no noticeable difference. I know the LRP and Tekin perform very well.
Thanks for the video Nick! I'm trying to do this while in my buggy. I took off the pinion and cranked the timing to 49 degrees and I'm only reading 2.38 amps? I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5t and Reedy 800z esc and fully charged battery. When I'm at 20 degree timing it's showing just over 1 amp.
Hi, make sure your meter has thick connecting wires, or it may drop a lot of voltage (and amps). Sometimes the end bell marks are way off. Try another 5 degrees.
I went ahead and ordered a Motor Analyzer just like the one you are using. At 40 degrees of timing I'm only getting 1.7 amps, 2605kv, 21622 rpm at 8.3v on battery. At 50 degrees I'm getting 3.7 amps, 3032kv, 24870 rpm. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5t SS 1S motor with the 800z esc. I didn't know that the motor/esc combo the hobby shop recommended was SS 1S.
Hi, Very nice video. I don't have a motor analyzer. How can I check my amps with load to make sure it doesn't overheat in the race? I have 5.8 amps holding the buggy in the air. I have a D3.5 stock 2wd buggy. Thanks
Hi The drivetrain probably draws about 2 amps when held in the air. So your motor is only about 3 amps on its own. I think it is as low as you can go, unless you are going to drive slowly. You can take off the pinion to check the motor free running.
If drivetrain load (wheels suspended) is causing the motor to draw 2 amps more than zero load on the motor shaft then there is something wrong with your drivetrain.
which motor do you like best for 17.5 blinky tc using a 2s battery racing on indoor carpet track and where would put the timing on motor if you dont have the tools to measure current
+Seven 420 Hi The Trinity D4 maxilla and the Revtech 24K are the best. I also like the WAVE Eclipse. Set the endbell at 50 degree or as close to where you think that is. If you have time, start with the timing low and then keep turning it up a few degrees at a time, until it starts going much faster, but motor is not too hot. If you turn the timing too high, the car might jerk (cogging) when trying to accelerate. Turn the timing back a few degrees until that stops. Hope that helps.
@nick Adams if using the 6.0a method - for most modern good motors what's a ballpark FDR for 2wd off road buggy on medium size track. Got a new trinity monster max and would like a starting point. Tia
Hi Ben I am not sure for that motor, but temperature is always useful to get the FDR right. If the motor is hotter than 70degC then it is close to maximum. If it runs cooler then you can lower the FDR. What wind is it? A 17.5T, I would start with 6.0 It depends on the track size etc, so you will have to try it.
Nick,First, thanks for all the videos!Second, I have some questions that I'm having trouble finding answers to on the net.I just purchased a certified Trinity D4, 17.5, 1S motor. What do all the handwritten numbers on the sticker mean? My "certified" numbers are: ROTOR IR: 20.8,20.8,20.8 - I know these are the ir of each abc pole. Are they good? STATOR: -3335, +3338. I have no idea what these mean. Are they good for a 17.5? RPM: low 6918, High 24817 And 1.4, 7.4 (below the RPM numbers) Thanks,
+ryan holcomb Hi Ryan I have the same Certified motor. The figures were nothing like my measured ones and I ignored them. The resistance of the ABC coils varies so little between all production line stators (of the same make) as to make no noticeable performance difference. The stator Gauss figures (magnetic strength) are the North and South pole, and should be as close as possible. In practice all production line stators are close enough and the actual strength can vary but have no affect if the motor is set up. The magnetic strength will change after some hot runs anyway. The revs will depend on the enbell timing, and I assume the test revs are checked at 1.4volts and 7.4volts. The sweetspot amp test will sort the motor much more accurately, as the endbell timing marks can be way out. Especially as the sensor boards can be way out on the ABC timings. They should select sensor boards with only +/- 1 degree out. My Certified motor had one sensor 8 degree out ! In conclusion, I have found normal production motors better than the certified one. Hope that helps. Race on. Nick
So I have just started learning about motor timing and stuff, and to my understanding, the only reason to change your motor timing is to get your motor to draw 6 amps? Correct? And then AFTER that you change your gearing? That's my understanding so far, correct me if I am wrong!
Nick Adams okay, and I read this one article on rc car action that said that a lower motor timing gives max torque at a lower rpm, and vice versa. I assume this info is wrong and that you only adjust timing in order to get to 6amps??
Hi Ronnie For rock crawling, or forward and reverse driving, then low timing will give a low speed smooth control For fast racing the maximum power is required for speed.
Hi Nick.. Does this also apply for higher turn motor running with 3s? I do 1/10 scale car and truck crawling and all of them with brushless sensored combo.
Hi Tu I am not sure that this is much use to rock crawling. It is intended to get maximum speed and performance, without burning out the motor. If you are driving slowly then the torque is more important, as you will be geared for small changes in speed. However you can still set the motor with a 2S lipo and then it will be ok with a 3S lipo. As usual always check the temperature of the motor after a run, to make sure it is not too hot.
hi nick its me again.. assuming we have understood all the values.. what is the maximum temperature we should have? 60, 70 or 80 degrees perhaps? do you gear your car base on race time or temperature?
Hi I gear for best acceleration and top speed. If you set FDR too low , then acceleration out of corner is slower and motor will heat up. Motor temperature must be kept below 80degC measured on case after race. If your motor has a high rev per volt (KV) then the FDR will be a higher number than a lower rev/volt motor that has perhaps a stronger magnet rotor.
Hi Robert Yes, it is a good compromise between performance and efficiency. More amps the motor runs too hot. Remember this is for Blinky (No boost timing).
Hi Nick, I just tested my amps drawn on a 3.0 17.5 Speed Passion brushless motor with the esc set to blinky stock 0 the can timing in the middle was 1.3 and with the timing on the can maxed it was only 2.0 why why am I so low? the battery also had a full charge.
+Bob Slavik Hi Bob The Speedpassion Version3 motors only have 0 to 10degree timing ,on the endbell. Some motors had restricted timing, to prevent racers burning them out with boosted timing on their speed controls. Looks like you will need to get another motor. You will need to set endbell timing around 50 degees! All the best. Nick
Nick, I've got a 10A amp meter. I followed your instructions with the wiring and can't seem to get it working. I know my battery posts need to be re-soldered but when I connect them into the battery the car works fine. Not sure if there's a setting in the amp meter which is not allowing the circuit to be completed (hoping I didn't blow a fuse on the meter).
Hi Todd Most meters have an extra connection socket to plug the wire, for Amp measurements. Does yours have removeable wires? Some cheap meters have very thin connecting wires which act like a resistance. Make sure they are heavy duty, or make a pair up with 12g wire.
I'll make sure my wires are in working order. Is there any easy/quick way to test the Amp reading capability of the multimeter to make sure I didn't blow a fuse? I looked at the fuse and visually it looked fine (no markings, no signs of overheating).
Thanks for all the help - come to find out I blew a fuse. Once I dropped in the new fuse and followed your directions I was able to tun my motor. My 17.5 Team Powers motors was pulling ~11amps - now it's tuned.
Hi Charles. The timing on the endbell is normally kept the same for most tracks, and as you say, the gearing adjusted to suit. On some big fast tracks, the timing can be advanced some more for extra top speed. All the best racing. Nick
Hello Nick, 2 part question would a 4 pole motor (castle 3800kv) sensored pull around the same amps in regards to setting the sweet spot? Also, in general for 13.5 & 17.5 motors once set in the sweet spot for blinky would you have to be careful once turbo/boost setting are added? Thank you sir
Hi Fabio. Hi Fabio. 4 pole motors are not normally made for high speed tuning, and have only a small range of static endbell timing, (some are not adjustable). The maximum timing advance is half that of a 2 pole motor. So it will be limited to about 30 degrees. So the maximum safe advance will be about 25degrees. However the amp draw may be way off. So you will have to do it in steps. The castle 3800kv is a similar size to the 2 pole, but will have a higher static winding resistance, which can result in more heat. You can tune until about 6amps. However the matching ESC normally has special boost timing programmed for maximum performance. Therefore you should not use both methods at the same time. Otherwise only try it in small steps and check performance against motor heat. Race on. Nick
Hi Bart Yes, short or standard stators and high or low gauss rotors. Running at higher or lower amps will not give the power or will run it hotter (less efficient). Of course it is possible to run higher or lower , but this gives you performance right in the ball park.
Hi Connor Buggies tend to run their motors hotter, and have poor cooling. So you may need to go lower or change the gear ratio to make sure the motor can rev high. Check the motor temperature after a short run and see if it is getting too hot. Then adjust if necessary. And check again after the full race run. nick
I have a HobbyWing SCT Pro and a Turnigy Tracstar 10.5t. I hook it up the same way you show, and no matter how I adjust the timing, I can only get a max of about 1.5/1.6 amps. It's a new motor, new speed control, freshly charged LiPo. What am I doing wrong?
The wires are 12 gauge. It wasn't a cheap meter, leftover from when I was an auto tech (I think I paid $300 for it). I am able to set the timing if I solder it to another speed control (I was trying to avoid that), so I've narrowed it down to the ESC. Thanks for the reply though, and all the in depth reviews. Keep it up, I've turned quite a few of us Yanks on to your channel.
Hello Nick,I didn't see this question asked but why is 6 amps the sweet spot for 17.5? How did you determine this. I just checked my Trackstar motor. With the timing maxed out it was only drawing 1.5 amps. I modified it and is now around 6 amps.
Hi David After running in the 17.5t class myself, I managed to check the fastest cars and found that they all were set around that figure. I then did some tests and found that once the timing goes past a critical point the amp draw rises quickly but with very little or no extra performance, and generates a lot more heat. I set the amp draw at 6 amps, as that works for everyone to give them a competitive motor without going too far. Experienced racers might push it a bit more, but just an extra 1 degree of timing can make the amps go up 2 or 3 amps. That will require driving on tracks that always maintain high speeds. So 6 amps is close enough to the maximum, and has proved to be good in the races. The FDR (final drive ratio) must also be set correctly for your track. On a large track it will be about 3.5. I have seen 3.2 to 3.7 spread on most normal tracks. Small indoor tracks you will need to check the motor does not overheat (over 75deg C) and set the FDR higher. Hope that helps Nick
Nick....great videos. AS for FDR on a team assocaited b6 its impossible to get a 3.5 fdr. i would need a 69 spur with a 51 pinion. The trans ratio is 2.6. Am i missing something?
Hi David. For Blinky , the timing is set to give maximum power at maximum efficiency. There is a timing point where a small increase in timing results in a rapid increase in amp draw, and a drop in efficiency, which in turn results in wasted energy which turns into heat in the motor. In practice 6 amps is very close to that point on most motors, and will give very good performance, with the right gear ratio, on most tracks. Of course, the experienced racer may want to push the motor harder, if the wasted energy is not a problem. But setting your motor at 6amps will get you in the ballpark and close to the quick racers straight away. Hope that helps. nick
I think Nick is referring to the ratio of just the pinion/spur on a b6 you are correct the FDR also needs to calculate the transmission diff internal ratio of 2.6. a good staring point for you pinion/spur is 25/75 to give you a FDR of 7.800 then adjust for temp. Also a good rule to remember is going up one pinion size equals about the same as going up 3 sizes on spur. Depending on what you are racing on a FDR between 6.964 and 7.800 will get you competitive.
+Tony Dugan Tony You are learning and bettering yourself, which is excellent. Connecting the meter, as I show at the end of the video is not difficult, so check it out. If you buy a meter, there are DC. clamp meters that are cheap now, and even easier to use. The jaws just go around one of the power wires, and there are no extra connections involved. Then just read the DC amps on the display. Anyhow, keep trying and you will get there. Nick
Hi, Yes, still the same. 6 amps is a good all round setting for 17.5T and 13.5T motors. You can set a few amps higher if the track is fast. But always check the motor temperature after the run and keep it below 80Deg C. All the best and stay safe. Nick
hi Nick, How are you? Sweet point for Touring Cars 13.5 blinky, 6amps too? Trinity24k. Adjusts the engine to 6 amps and we're changing the FDR to the ideal point around 60 to 70C in the motor?
Hi The FDR should result in the motor hitting maximum efficiency about half way down the longest straight. If you over gear or under gear the motor will run at a lower efficiency and will heat up. 70 deg C is ok, but if it gets to 80C then you are not geared right, or too much crashing.
+Martijn Demeulemeester Hi Boosted means that the speed control adds extra timing by electronics. Normally you set the motor endbell timing to 30 degree and add up to 30 degree from speed control If you set endbell to say 50 degrees (6 amps) , then you can only add an extra 10 degree on the speed control. If you add more the motor will malfunction and burn out.
Hi There Nick Quick question I hooked my ammeter up as you showed on my cars and both draw under 2 amps. For my main car I think the max amp draw I saw was around 1.56 on a Corally 17.5 with the timing max'd. Would you say this is time to look for a newer motor with more timing adjustment available?
Hi Alistair Make sure your meter has thick connecting cables (No voltage drop). Assuming the timing is turned to Max (Not minimum) that is very low. Try another motor and make sure the meter is working correctly.
My only other motor is a Speedpassion 17.5 and that had been reading about the same. Wires are all 12AWG and the amp draw besides the motor was comparable to your demo, 0.7 with my cooling fan running and 0.1 without up to 0.2 if I turned the servo The timing definitely has an effect as set to minimum the motor amp draw reads as 0.8
Testing again quickly with a team powers brushed motor and that seemed to stabilise at 3A draw under full throttle no load so I think the meter is working as it should be
+Gary Kirkwood Hi Gary A 1S Lipo will need to be set about 4 amps (with 1S Lipo) You can still set it up with a 2S lipo before putting in your 1S car. See my 1S video: ruclips.net/video/RHraO6kzlPI/видео.html
Hello Nick. I got my motor to 5.4 amps but didn't see or feel much of a difference in performance. My car is a b5m buggy. Any tips on gearing? The motor actually seemed a bit sluggish and the motor would get hot quickly. My test gearing was 29/69 through 33/69. Thoughts?Thank you.
Hi It looks like you are over geared, which is making it sluggish and hot. It is best to start with the small pinion and work up to larger, and see if the buggy gets quicker or slower or no change. Then you will get the peak performance when you get best speed without bogging down the motor acceleration.
Is 6amp current draw arbitrary for all motors? I'm just setting up a new GT class car (blinky) with a Hobbywing V10 G2 21.5T motor and wondering if setting timing for a 6 amp unloaded draw is correct. I'm just using a Fluke multimeter (ammeter), I don't have a motor analyzer. If it's not, what unloaded amperage should I be aiming for?
Is there an RPM threshold that you should stay under in addition to the amp draw? With a freshly balanced charged 2S lipo, motor is showing 31,483 RPM’s at 6 amps on my Sky RC motor analyzer. I have not run it yet but seems like that amount of RPM could definitely create some heat issues. Thoughts?
Hi Florida. 13.5T motors rev around 31,000rpm at 2S and 6 amps. So you are spot on. All motors will heat up during use, so a good 40mm fan should be used blowing onto the motor. After a run the motor case should not be too hot to touch. And aim for no more than in the 70 deg C range.
@@floridalife7877 Hi. That is high for a 17.5T . The rpm with 2S would be around 26,000 at 6 amp. A weak rotor can give high rpm. But the Reedy S+ i tested gave 29,148rpm at 6amps. So it is a high rev motor.
+mrskaterdude75 Hi If it is for 10.5T blinky then the timing will be lower, to get about 6amps. The 105T will run more efficiently so try 8 amps. Always check the motor temperature after the run. Adjust the timing until it is just getting hot.
+sexdrugsandhardcore Hi You still need to set the motor for best performance. So start with 6 amps and then advance timing a bit more if the motor is not overheating. Use a fan if you can. Note that the amp draw increases a lot after the 6 amp point for just 1 or 2 degrees extra, so only increase by small amounts. Hope that helps. Nick
Hi Nick, I tried to this amp test so far I have no luck. I'm using a multimeter. When I plug in the connection like in the video my esc won't power up. I checked the fuse on the multimeter and measure my battery voltage everything works. I have a deans plug between the battery and esc, do you think that's the issue why it wouldn't power up my esc? Thanks
Hi The connections from the speed control through the deans plug, with the multimeter (set to DC 10 amps) put in the path of either the positive or negative lead, that then goes to the Lipo. Try pulling out the two wires from the multimeter and hold the ends together. Then see if the speedo turns on. If it does then the multimeter must be the problem. If still nothing, check the connecting wires are all ok.
Ok, I opened my multimeter and found out burnt traces. I made jumpers. Finally my esc turned on and I was able to read my amps. It was set to 10A, I lowered it down to 5.5A. What's your recommendation amp settings for rc drift? I have 24k 9.5T, 10.92FDR. I used a lot of throttle to keep sliding. Thanks
For Drift, you need smooth throttle control and not the highest speed. So you may find that setting the timing low (10 degrees) gives a better feel. The amp draw will be lower maybe only 3 amps. The motor will also run cooler. You will have to gear it right.
i went back and looked at your car in full screen and see some minor detail differences now but i am amazed at how similar the designs are between the xray and yokomo, i wonder who copied who....lol
Nick, from 6amps there are no benefits, right? My motor (x20 13,5t LRP) is draining 11 amps, it will be better to lower the timing? My use is for Touring Car 13.5 blinky mode. limited to 4,5 FDR.
+Marcelo Borges Hi With fixed 4.5FDR, drivers push the timing until the motor gets too hot and burns out. I do not like to go over 10 amps, so try 8 amps. The amps changes a lot for just 1 or 2 degree change of timing. If motor overheats and slow down towards end of race, the lower timing .
+Nick Adams look my numbers: 35,0(R) 40,0degrees 5,83amps 32,5(R) 42,5degrees 9,18amps 30,0(R) 45,0degrees 10,87amps maybe 9,18 or 5,83? the sweet spot the numbers tests: Watt meter / Esc car in full throttle battery a 7,4volts (storage mode) FDR locked 4,5
+Marcelo Borges Hi The X20 motor sensor is different to other motors. Move rotor towards pinion end for better magnetic focus. Your 32.5 setting looks good. Run the motor in a race and check temperature. Try and keep below 100degree C.
Hi Nick, After me and my friend watched the video we tried this on my 17.5 buggy it is really much faster. I also run VTA which is 25.5 touring car, what would be the target amperage for it?
Hi Robert Great, you are going faster. The 25.5T motor is very inefficient and will overheat if you try and get too much out of it. The VTA are also heavy and probably do not run, handle well, so have some stop start action, which will heat the motor. Test it first and see what the amp draw is. If it is very low, say 1 amp, then turn timing up to say 3 amps and try and see how hot it gets. If all good , try 4 amps. I think 6 amps will make it too hot. Also it may be able to pull a smaller pinion at the higher amp draw, so it is a bit of a too and fro to get the best compromise. See how you get on. Nick
I will test it to see where I am at now and then add. My car handles well and with changes I am making I think I will make it better. August 1st there will be some rule changes dropping the weight from 1550 to 1450 and the battery from 5000 mah to 6000 mah.
Hello Nick. I did the multimeter/ammeter test with my Reedy Sonic Mach2 17.5T and Tekin GS Gen 2. I could not get a constant 6-ish amperage, only on initial burst then it would settle to around 3A+. Is this good enough or should it be reading at around 6A constant. The end bell timing is already maxed at 50. Thanks. :)
Re-did the test using a thicker wire for the multimeter to battery connection and the ampere readings are constant. I set it to 5.9A+/-, temps is around 160F after 8 minutes of running. Thanks Nick. :)
Hi Theo It should be 6 amps when settled. Some motors restrict the end bell advance timing. In your case it is maxed. Sometimes it is possible to file the slot that is stopping it turning further.
+Bart Grider Hi Some older motors had limited timing on the endbell. It is possible to file the endstops so it will rotate a little more. But 5 amps is not too bad. Just fit a bigger pinion and you should be competitive.
Hi nick. Just tried this with the motor in the car. I ran the motor straight through the esc as if running it properly and it seemed quite quickly. I then ran it through the multimeter and the speed of motor dropped and, according to multimeter, it was only drawing 2.88 on the DCA setting. Is there anything I done wrong?
Hi Jason The multimeter may be dropping a little voltage, especially as you are using 1S make sure the connecting wires are heavy duty and short. Setting with 1S is much more difficult than 2S because of the voltage drops. When setting for 1S (blinky), i did a video saying it is best to set it with a 2S lipo and then it will be right for the 1S Hope that helps nick
Hi Chris Not normally for a 25.5T High winds have high winding resistance, and poor efficiency. Depending on the use: 2S and weight of vehicle. You should time the motor and gear it so that it runs no hotter than in the 70 degree C range, measured straight after the run. Assuming you are running Blinky (No speedo timing) I suggest you set the timing at about 45 degrees, and measure the amps, which should be less than 6 amps. Try and find a gearing that gives good performance for the track. Measure motor temp, and if not hot you can either gear up for overall performance gain, or increase timing by a few degrees for higher top speed. Then check temp again. Repeat as necessary. Note that a powerful motor cooling fan is essential on high wind motors, as they will generate heat.
Attempting to test with a multimeter. I tried two different meters, both popped the fuse. Am I doing something wrong? Is it that I just have cheap $20/US meters?
Hi Rob The start up current is quite high, so advance the throttle slowly until full speed. The meter can do at least 10amps DC? Also check that the meter conecting leads are not too thin, as they will drop voltage and give low readings.
Both meters have separate 10A capabilities, inputs. I'm not using their leads. I used 4mm bullet/12g wire leads. Hot off esc into hot on battery Neg on esc into 10A input on meter Jumper wire, 12g / 4mm bullet one end to Com on meter, opposite to Neg on battery. D4 1s 17.5 motor , Tekin Gen2 120A esc. I also have a Monster 13.5 / Tekin RSX set up I wanted to test.
Hi Rob Everything looks good. Does it blow fuse straight on connection, or when you throttle up.? If you advance throttle just to a slow speed does the meter fuse still blow?
It might have happened on throttle up...I'm not really sure. I wonder though, if I dropped the current limiter on the Hotwire, would that possibly help prevent popping the fuse? And / or , will lowering the limiter affect amp draw?
Hi Rob The fuse should not blow if you advance the throttle slowly until at full speed. (As long as current draw is less than 10 amps) Setting the current limit to minimum may help if still blowing a fuse as it accelerates.
Hi Nick, definately found this very informative, and I agree on the 13.5 and 17.5 motors around 6A is the sweet spot, I saw you mention in a reply 4 Amps for the 21.5, from a bit of testing I am finding 4.5 Amps is probably better for that wind motor, tried it on the Fantom FR-1 and the Trinity 24K and seems to line up with where the performance was.
Hi
Thanks for the info.
Yes, the setting for the 21.5t is difficult, and not to put too much advance.
Keep racing to win.
Nick
+fb5b Thanx, I wasn't sure what to aim for with my new V10 G2 21.5T motor...
We run WGT-R 17.5 1s .... i was running my 17.5s at 5 to 6 amps on large open tracks...on a small local track i needed 3/10s i searched high and low for it, i ended up turning my timing back to 3.8 amps .. i picked up my 3/10 i needed ..... as the timing goes up, the power band is narrowed and pushed higher in the rpm range ... more mild timing gives better midrange torque and a wider power band.
Great videos Nick! Racing spec buggy tonight in Nanaimo BC!
Hi Steven
Nanaimo looks like a beautiful and rugged place, a bit like Scotland.
Looks cold as well .
Have a great race.
nick
Nick Adams Cold winters but nice in the summer! Nick do you have an email address? I have questions now after some testing haha.
Never mind. I answered my own question after more testing/reading
Hi Nick, great vidio again. Just one question, you said in that video that it's possible to use the analyzer on the car without disconnecting the motor from the ESC. Is this really ok or will it burn the ESC ? It's clear that the sensor cable has to be disconnected anyway.
It can be used without un soldering the motor.
Nick your nomination will read professional hobbiest
thanks nick for your help. I also have a question on speed controls is there a way to test the fets? Sometimes i feel my setup on my car is good but i have no punch coming out of the corner or like im not getting full power or i feel like im over geared no matter what pinion i run or maybe its the motor. What would make me lose speed like that?
+Seven 420
Hi
Loss of punch as the race goes on is caused by lowering voltage of the Lipo or overheating of motor or speedo.
Overgearing will give a fast car at the start, but will slow towards the end.
Make sure your Lipo is the best you can get, and that it is not out of balance., especially if one cell is always lower than the other, then it will never be at its best.
Check the heat of the speedo and motor after the race.
Keeping them as cool as possible will give performance all the way.
If the speedo is hot to touch, fit a fan (or get a more powerful one)
If the motor is too hot to touch, get a more powerful fan, or change the gearing/timing.
Note that some motors lose magnet strength over time, which will cause overheating as well as lack of punch.
Spin the rotor over by hand and feel that the magnet is still nice and strong, and stops quickly . Some rotors will feel mushy when they go weak.
Testing speed controls: It is very difficult to test if any FETs have gone down, as there are several working together. Trying to measure the short circuit current delivery is very difficult without damaging the speed control.
Also it is rare to have some Fets go down, unless the speed control has been shorted or connected reverse polarity.
Hope that helps.
Nick
Excellent videos Nick, very informative indeed! Noting that the video is about 2 years old, does the 6A rule still apply for an R1 v16 13.5T for example?
Hi Vincent
Yes, you can set up 13.5t and down to 4.5T with the 6 amp off load draw.
Also you can set up motors used with a 1S lipo with this same method, by setting up with a 2S lipo.
Hi Nick, very interesteing video, thanks for sharing.
Wondering how would it be below 13.5T, let say from 10.5T to 4.5T motors?
Hi Pabula
Yes it is possible to test motors as low as 4.5t to make sure they are set at the correct timing for your car and track.
If you have a motor that is very good , then test it and use the readings to set other motors of the same winding to the same timing or amp draw.
I will do a video to explain.
race on
nick
Thank you nick for the reply, and looking foward to the video =)
Btw im also trying to build a load bench, mostly to test batteries, im trying to emulate a load similar to what a 10.5T motor can draw, i was thinking on using Halogen 12V 50W bulbs, how many do you suggest?
Hi Pabula
You can work out how many amps by the mAh used in a race.
So with 10.5T , it will use say 3000mAh in 5 minutes.
That is 3 x12= 36amps average.
the 12V 50W bulb will draw 4 amps.
With a 2S lipo the voltage is about 8V, and current through bulb is only 2.7amps.
Therefore you will need 36/2.7=13 bulbs in parrallel.
thanks Nick that explains a lot to me which helps me on my battery purchase
Enjoyed watching your video. I just checked the amp draw on my trinity revtech kill shot 17.5 and the most I could get was 2.9 amps. This motor can only adjust the timing so much. Faulty motor or design?
Hi. Some of the older motors had limited movement of the endbell timing ring. It was possible to file away part of the endstop to get more timing.
Hi Nick.. Can I use the analyzer with motor wired to esc?
Cause its take more time for me to re-soldering the A B C wire 😁
Hi Nick, love the video's for the 17.5 and the 13.5 timing to the sweet spot. My question is why would 6.0 amps be where the sweet spot is found? I race blinky on a clay oval in both the 17.5 and the 13.5 with an Associated SC10 modified/Late model body and both required the timing advanced all the way to achieve close to 6.0 amps. I am concerned that for a 4 min race I will overheat and burn up the motors. I was previously running about 35 degree timing at about 2.5 - 3.0 amps and the motor geared at 25/75 with the temps in the 160-170 range.
Forgot to mention that I am using a Trinity maxzilla d4 17.5 and a speed passion 13.5. I also found for the speed passions you need to purchase either the green or the yellow timing boards to replace the factory black board to get more timing into the motor.
Hi Bob
I originally did this video for on road touring cars, which race at fast speeds.
For Off-road the settings may be different, especially as the motor is enclosed and will heat up.
The 6 amp spot was found to be just before the rotor losses became too great and the efficiency dropped quickly.
I suggest that motors should be checked for temperature, and if too hot, and can't be cooled with a fan, then adjust the timing down , and make sure the gear ratio is correct.
If the vehicle is stopping and starting, then the motor will heat up much more.
If the motor exceeds 80deg C on the case, then it is too hot and will either lose power or burn out.
Hi Bob
Some motors restrict the timing and cannot be turned up, but they are usually older models.
Once you have found the sweet spot in a motor, if you add more timing via the esc will that " add up" so to speak and overheat everything?.
Hi
Yes, it will be too much.
If you use speed control timing boost, say 30 degrees, then turn the endbell back 30 degrees from the sweet spot.
Hi Nick! Do you think I can set the timing approximately correct just using an ammeter inline between my battery and the ESC? Obviously there will some additional current through the ESC BEC system but if I set to 6 amps, would that be an ok poor-man's method to set the timing? On a different note, my wife thinks your voice sounds like the narrator from the snowman! :) Kind wishes, -Tom
Your esc is in blinky mode at the end of the video correct? Just wanted to be sure.
Hi sir, I’m using HW g3r 17.5t, what’s the best recommended final gearing ratio for touring, after i set the sweet spot for motor timing? Thank you
What tooth pinion and spur gear should I use for 17.5. A general range would help a lot. Thanks.
Depending on the size of the track, and whether indoor or outdoor, the range for the FDR (final drive ratio) will be from 3.5 to 5. This is spur and pinion gear and the internal gear ratio of your car.
thanks nick! i have another question have you ever tested different speed controls in blinky mode on the same motor to see if theres any difference?
+Seven 420
HI
No, since all the top speed controls perform very similar in Blinky mode.
As long as you use the high current versions , say 100Amp or more, there will be no noticeable difference.
I know the LRP and Tekin perform very well.
Thanks for the video Nick! I'm trying to do this while in my buggy. I took off the pinion and cranked the timing to 49 degrees and I'm only reading 2.38 amps? I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5t and Reedy 800z esc and fully charged battery. When I'm at 20 degree timing it's showing just over 1 amp.
Hi, make sure your meter has thick connecting wires, or it may drop a lot of voltage (and amps).
Sometimes the end bell marks are way off. Try another 5 degrees.
gti2756 Is your sensor wire connected while on the motor analyzer? If it is not, it will show low amps until you do.
I went ahead and ordered a Motor Analyzer just like the one you are using. At 40 degrees of timing I'm only getting 1.7 amps, 2605kv, 21622 rpm at 8.3v on battery. At 50 degrees I'm getting 3.7 amps, 3032kv, 24870 rpm. I have a Reedy Sonic 17.5t SS 1S motor with the 800z esc. I didn't know that the motor/esc combo the hobby shop recommended was SS 1S.
Hi nick , would the 6A sweet spot be applicable when using a 1S Lipo ?
Won't the gauge wire used affect the results?, seems like your using thin wire going to the motor on your tester
Hi Doc
The wires are good enough for the amps.
Hi, Very nice video. I don't have a motor analyzer. How can I check my amps with load to make sure it doesn't overheat in the race? I have 5.8 amps holding the buggy in the air. I have a D3.5 stock 2wd buggy. Thanks
Hi
The drivetrain probably draws about 2 amps when held in the air.
So your motor is only about 3 amps on its own.
I think it is as low as you can go, unless you are going to drive slowly.
You can take off the pinion to check the motor free running.
Ok. Thank you for your help!
If drivetrain load (wheels suspended) is causing the motor to draw 2 amps more than zero load on the motor shaft then there is something wrong with your drivetrain.
which motor do you like best for 17.5 blinky tc using a 2s battery racing on indoor carpet track and where would put the timing on motor if you dont have the tools to measure current
+Seven 420
Hi
The Trinity D4 maxilla and the Revtech 24K are the best. I also like the WAVE Eclipse.
Set the endbell at 50 degree or as close to where you think that is.
If you have time, start with the timing low and then keep turning it up a few degrees at a time, until it starts going much faster, but motor is not too hot.
If you turn the timing too high, the car might jerk (cogging) when trying to accelerate. Turn the timing back a few degrees until that stops.
Hope that helps.
@nick Adams if using the 6.0a method - for most modern good motors what's a ballpark FDR for 2wd off road buggy on medium size track. Got a new trinity monster max and would like a starting point. Tia
Hi Ben
I am not sure for that motor, but temperature is always useful to get the FDR right.
If the motor is hotter than 70degC then it is close to maximum.
If it runs cooler then you can lower the FDR.
What wind is it?
A 17.5T, I would start with 6.0
It depends on the track size etc, so you will have to try it.
Nick,First, thanks for all the videos!Second, I have some questions that I'm having trouble finding answers to on the net.I just purchased a certified Trinity D4, 17.5, 1S motor. What do all the handwritten numbers on the sticker mean?
My "certified" numbers are:
ROTOR IR: 20.8,20.8,20.8 - I know these are the ir of each abc pole. Are they good?
STATOR: -3335, +3338. I have no idea what these mean. Are they good for a 17.5?
RPM: low 6918, High 24817
And 1.4, 7.4 (below the RPM numbers)
Thanks,
+ryan holcomb
Hi Ryan
I have the same Certified motor.
The figures were nothing like my measured ones and I ignored them.
The resistance of the ABC coils varies so little between all production line stators (of the same make) as to make no noticeable performance difference.
The stator Gauss figures (magnetic strength) are the North and South pole, and should be as close as possible.
In practice all production line stators are close enough and the actual strength can vary but have no affect if the motor is set up.
The magnetic strength will change after some hot runs anyway.
The revs will depend on the enbell timing, and I assume the test revs are checked at 1.4volts and 7.4volts.
The sweetspot amp test will sort the motor much more accurately, as the endbell timing marks can be way out.
Especially as the sensor boards can be way out on the ABC timings.
They should select sensor boards with only +/- 1 degree out.
My Certified motor had one sensor 8 degree out !
In conclusion, I have found normal production motors better than the certified one.
Hope that helps. Race on. Nick
Thanks Nick. Exactly the info I was looking for.
So I have just started learning about motor timing and stuff, and to my understanding, the only reason to change your motor timing is to get your motor to draw 6 amps? Correct? And then AFTER that you change your gearing? That's my understanding so far, correct me if I am wrong!
Hi Ronnie
For Blinky racing (No speedo timing) the 6 amp setting gives a good performance point.
Then gear the car to suit the track etc.
Nick Adams okay, and I read this one article on rc car action that said that a lower motor timing gives max torque at a lower rpm, and vice versa. I assume this info is wrong and that you only adjust timing in order to get to 6amps??
Hi Ronnie
For rock crawling, or forward and reverse driving, then low timing will give a low speed smooth control
For fast racing the maximum power is required for speed.
Awesome videos nick :) keep it up 👍🏼
Hi Nick.. Does this also apply for higher turn motor running with 3s? I do 1/10 scale car and truck crawling and all of them with brushless sensored combo.
Hi Tu
I am not sure that this is much use to rock crawling.
It is intended to get maximum speed and performance, without burning out the motor.
If you are driving slowly then the torque is more important, as you will be geared for small changes in speed.
However you can still set the motor with a 2S lipo and then it will be ok with a 3S lipo.
As usual always check the temperature of the motor after a run, to make sure it is not too hot.
hi nick its me again.. assuming we have understood all the values.. what is the maximum temperature we should have? 60, 70 or 80 degrees perhaps? do you gear your car base on race time or temperature?
Hi
I gear for best acceleration and top speed.
If you set FDR too low , then acceleration out of corner is slower and motor will heat up.
Motor temperature must be kept below 80degC measured on case after race.
If your motor has a high rev per volt (KV) then the FDR will be a higher number than a lower rev/volt motor that has perhaps a stronger magnet rotor.
That helps a lot nick.. You rock!
So you want to get as close to 6 amps to get maximum performance. ???
Hi Robert
Yes, it is a good compromise between performance and efficiency.
More amps the motor runs too hot.
Remember this is for Blinky (No boost timing).
Hi Nick, I just tested my amps drawn on a 3.0 17.5 Speed Passion brushless motor with the esc set to blinky stock 0 the can timing in the middle was 1.3 and with the timing on the can maxed it was only 2.0 why why am I so low? the battery also had a full charge.
+Bob Slavik
Hi Bob
The Speedpassion Version3 motors only have 0 to 10degree timing ,on the endbell.
Some motors had restricted timing, to prevent racers burning them out with boosted timing on their speed controls.
Looks like you will need to get another motor.
You will need to set endbell timing around 50 degees!
All the best. Nick
Nick, I've got a 10A amp meter. I followed your instructions with the wiring and can't seem to get it working. I know my battery posts need to be re-soldered but when I connect them into the battery the car works fine. Not sure if there's a setting in the amp meter which is not allowing the circuit to be completed (hoping I didn't blow a fuse on the meter).
Hi Todd
Most meters have an extra connection socket to plug the wire, for Amp measurements.
Does yours have removeable wires?
Some cheap meters have very thin connecting wires which act like a resistance.
Make sure they are heavy duty, or make a pair up with 12g wire.
I'll make sure my wires are in working order. Is there any easy/quick way to test the Amp reading capability of the multimeter to make sure I didn't blow a fuse? I looked at the fuse and visually it looked fine (no markings, no signs of overheating).
Hi Todd
Touch the probes on the end of a AA battery and see if the meter jumps and reads something.
Thanks for all the help - come to find out I blew a fuse. Once I dropped in the new fuse and followed your directions I was able to tun my motor. My 17.5 Team Powers motors was pulling ~11amps - now it's tuned.
Hi Todd
That's good news.
Hope you get some good racing now.
Nick
Won't the timing change depending on the track your driving on and doesn't that affect the gearing? New to this so trying to figure it all out
Hi Charles. The timing on the endbell is normally kept the same for most tracks, and as you say, the gearing adjusted to suit. On some big fast tracks, the timing can be advanced some more for extra top speed. All the best racing. Nick
Hello Nick, 2 part question would a 4 pole motor (castle 3800kv) sensored pull around the same amps in regards to setting the sweet spot? Also, in general for 13.5 & 17.5 motors once set in the sweet spot for blinky would you have to be careful once turbo/boost setting are added? Thank you sir
Hi Fabio. Hi Fabio. 4 pole motors are not normally made for high speed tuning, and have only a small range of static endbell timing, (some are not adjustable). The maximum timing advance is half that of a 2 pole motor. So it will be limited to about 30 degrees. So the maximum safe advance will be about 25degrees. However the amp draw may be way off. So you will have to do it in steps. The castle 3800kv is a similar size to the 2 pole, but will have a higher static winding resistance, which can result in more heat. You can tune until about 6amps. However the matching ESC normally has special boost timing programmed for maximum performance. Therefore you should not use both methods at the same time. Otherwise only try it in small steps and check performance against motor heat. Race on. Nick
Awesome Nick just the answer I was looking for! Thanks man
Cant adjust timing in blinky racing in the US for ROAR
Nick,
Does this also apply to setting a short stack 17.5 motor running on 2S battery?
Hi Bart
Yes, short or standard stators and high or low gauss rotors.
Running at higher or lower amps will not give the power or will run it hotter (less efficient).
Of course it is possible to run higher or lower , but this gives you performance right in the ball park.
Hi nick I am gonna be running a 13.5 motor in a Team Associated B5 on a dirt oval will the 6a still work or will I need to go lower?
Hi Connor
Buggies tend to run their motors hotter, and have poor cooling.
So you may need to go lower or change the gear ratio to make sure the motor can rev high.
Check the motor temperature after a short run and see if it is getting too hot.
Then adjust if necessary. And check again after the full race run.
nick
I have a HobbyWing SCT Pro and a Turnigy Tracstar 10.5t. I hook it up the same way you show, and no matter how I adjust the timing, I can only get a max of about 1.5/1.6 amps. It's a new motor, new speed control, freshly charged LiPo. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Michael
Make sure the wire leads to the multimeter are heavy gauge .
The ones that come with testers are often very thin wires.
The wires are 12 gauge. It wasn't a cheap meter, leftover from when I was an auto tech (I think I paid $300 for it). I am able to set the timing if I solder it to another speed control (I was trying to avoid that), so I've narrowed it down to the ESC. Thanks for the reply though, and all the in depth reviews. Keep it up, I've turned quite a few of us Yanks on to your channel.
Hello Nick,I didn't see this question asked but why is 6 amps the sweet spot for 17.5? How did you determine this. I just checked my Trackstar motor. With the timing maxed out it was only drawing 1.5 amps. I modified it and is now around 6 amps.
Hi David
After running in the 17.5t class myself, I managed to check the fastest cars and found that they all were set around that figure.
I then did some tests and found that once the timing goes past a critical point the amp draw rises quickly but with very little or no extra performance, and generates a lot more heat.
I set the amp draw at 6 amps, as that works for everyone to give them a competitive motor without going too far.
Experienced racers might push it a bit more, but just an extra 1 degree of timing can make the amps go up 2 or 3 amps. That will require driving on tracks that always maintain high speeds.
So 6 amps is close enough to the maximum, and has proved to be good in the races.
The FDR (final drive ratio) must also be set correctly for your track.
On a large track it will be about 3.5. I have seen 3.2 to 3.7 spread on most normal tracks. Small indoor tracks you will need to check the motor does not overheat (over 75deg C) and set the FDR higher.
Hope that helps
Nick
Nick,
Thanks for the response. I have yet to run with the new timing setting but I will take your FDR information into consideration when I do.
Nick....great videos. AS for FDR on a team assocaited b6 its impossible to get a 3.5 fdr. i would need a 69 spur with a 51 pinion. The trans ratio is 2.6. Am i missing something?
Hi David.
For Blinky , the timing is set to give maximum power at maximum efficiency.
There is a timing point where a small increase in timing results in a rapid increase in amp draw, and a drop in efficiency, which in turn results in wasted energy which turns into heat in the motor.
In practice 6 amps is very close to that point on most motors, and will give very good performance, with the right gear ratio, on most tracks.
Of course, the experienced racer may want to push the motor harder, if the wasted energy is not a problem.
But setting your motor at 6amps will get you in the ballpark and close to the quick racers straight away.
Hope that helps.
nick
I think Nick is referring to the ratio of just the pinion/spur on a b6 you are correct the FDR also needs to calculate the transmission diff internal ratio of 2.6. a good staring point for you pinion/spur is 25/75 to give you a FDR of 7.800 then adjust for temp. Also a good rule to remember is going up one pinion size equals about the same as going up 3 sizes on spur. Depending on what you are racing on a FDR between 6.964 and 7.800 will get you competitive.
Nick, great video. Can you please show how to use only the meter? I am an moron. Thanks.
+Tony Dugan
Tony
You are learning and bettering yourself, which is excellent.
Connecting the meter, as I show at the end of the video is not difficult, so check it out.
If you buy a meter, there are DC. clamp meters that are cheap now, and even easier to use.
The jaws just go around one of the power wires, and there are no extra connections involved. Then just read the DC amps on the display.
Anyhow, keep trying and you will get there.
Nick
@Nick Adams Hi Nick, is this still an effective way to test 17.5 motors in 2020? Cheers from down under.
Hi, Yes, still the same. 6 amps is a good all round setting for 17.5T and 13.5T motors. You can set a few amps higher if the track is fast. But always check the motor temperature after the run and keep it below 80Deg C. All the best and stay safe. Nick
hi Nick, How are you? Sweet point for Touring Cars 13.5 blinky, 6amps too? Trinity24k. Adjusts the engine to 6 amps and we're changing the FDR to the ideal point around 60 to 70C in the motor?
Hi
The FDR should result in the motor hitting maximum efficiency about half way down the longest straight.
If you over gear or under gear the motor will run at a lower efficiency and will heat up.
70 deg C is ok, but if it gets to 80C then you are not geared right, or too much crashing.
nice Nick, so tks.
6 amps in free motor is a better setup for a motor? (Trinity 24k 13.5) 6.2 is now, in the weekend i try. tks for attention.
Hi Nick,
Can this also be done with a boosted 17.5?
How much amps would I have to look for?
Thanks
+Martijn Demeulemeester
Hi
Boosted means that the speed control adds extra timing by electronics.
Normally you set the motor endbell timing to 30 degree and add up to 30 degree from speed control
If you set endbell to say 50 degrees (6 amps) , then you can only add an extra 10 degree on the speed control.
If you add more the motor will malfunction and burn out.
Hi There Nick
Quick question I hooked my ammeter up as you showed on my cars and both draw under 2 amps. For my main car I think the max amp draw I saw was around 1.56 on a Corally 17.5 with the timing max'd. Would you say this is time to look for a newer motor with more timing adjustment available?
Hi Alistair
Make sure your meter has thick connecting cables (No voltage drop).
Assuming the timing is turned to Max (Not minimum) that is very low.
Try another motor and make sure the meter is working correctly.
My only other motor is a Speedpassion 17.5 and that had been reading about the same. Wires are all 12AWG and the amp draw besides the motor was comparable to your demo, 0.7 with my cooling fan running and 0.1 without up to 0.2 if I turned the servo
The timing definitely has an effect as set to minimum the motor amp draw reads as 0.8
Hi Alistair
Okay, time to buy a new motor.
Testing again quickly with a team powers brushed motor and that seemed to stabilise at 3A draw under full throttle no load so I think the meter is working as it should be
Hi Nick. Does the 6 amp sweet spot apply to a 1s lipo
+Gary Kirkwood
Hi Gary
A 1S Lipo will need to be set about 4 amps (with 1S Lipo)
You can still set it up with a 2S lipo before putting in your 1S car.
See my 1S video:
ruclips.net/video/RHraO6kzlPI/видео.html
Is this method still valid with today's motors?
Great video. Follow your channel and videos now
Hi, Thanks. I will do some new video soon. Race on Nick
Hello Nick. I got my motor to 5.4 amps but didn't see or feel much of a difference in performance. My car is a b5m buggy. Any tips on gearing? The motor actually seemed a bit sluggish and the motor would get hot quickly. My test gearing was 29/69 through 33/69. Thoughts?Thank you.
Hi
It looks like you are over geared, which is making it sluggish and hot.
It is best to start with the small pinion and work up to larger, and see if the buggy gets quicker or slower or no change.
Then you will get the peak performance when you get best speed without bogging down the motor acceleration.
The starting pinion was 29 teeth. I worked my way up to 32. I didn't experiment with the spur, however. Could it be that this is where I fell short?
Is 6amp current draw arbitrary for all motors? I'm just setting up a new GT class car (blinky) with a Hobbywing V10 G2 21.5T motor and wondering if setting timing for a 6 amp unloaded draw is correct. I'm just using a Fluke multimeter (ammeter), I don't have a motor analyzer. If it's not, what unloaded amperage should I be aiming for?
Sorry, a saw an earlier post. for 4.5amp's. I'll start with that.
Is there an RPM threshold that you should stay under in addition to the amp draw? With a freshly balanced charged 2S lipo, motor is showing 31,483 RPM’s at 6 amps on my Sky RC motor analyzer. I have not run it yet but seems like that amount of RPM could definitely create some heat issues. Thoughts?
Hi Florida. 13.5T motors rev around 31,000rpm at 2S and 6 amps. So you are spot on.
All motors will heat up during use, so a good 40mm fan should be used blowing onto the motor.
After a run the motor case should not be too hot to touch. And aim for no more than in the 70 deg C range.
Nick Adams this is a 17.5 motor that I am referring to. It is a Reedy S+ that I am testing
@@floridalife7877 Hi. That is high for a 17.5T . The rpm with 2S would be around 26,000 at 6 amp. A weak rotor can give high rpm. But the Reedy S+ i tested gave 29,148rpm at 6amps. So it is a high rev motor.
Will 6amps work on a 10.5 as well or is it higher or lower
+mrskaterdude75
Hi
If it is for 10.5T blinky then the timing will be lower, to get about 6amps.
The 105T will run more efficiently so try 8 amps.
Always check the motor temperature after the run.
Adjust the timing until it is just getting hot.
+Nick Adams great thanks will try that, and I also have a 21.5 what would u recommend on that for amps because I am getting about 1.5 with zero timing
hi nick,what's the optimal amp draw for a 13.5 motor in 1s blinky? I'm currently racing gt12.
+sexdrugsandhardcore
Hi
You still need to set the motor for best performance.
So start with 6 amps and then advance timing a bit more if the motor is not overheating. Use a fan if you can.
Note that the amp draw increases a lot after the 6 amp point for just 1 or 2 degrees extra, so only increase by small amounts.
Hope that helps.
Nick
Hi Nick, I tried to this amp test so far I have no luck. I'm using a multimeter. When I plug in the connection like in the video my esc won't power up.
I checked the fuse on the multimeter and measure my battery voltage everything works.
I have a deans plug between the battery and esc, do you think that's the issue why it wouldn't power up my esc?
Thanks
Hi
The connections from the speed control through the deans plug, with the multimeter (set to DC 10 amps) put in the path of either the positive or negative lead, that then goes to the Lipo.
Try pulling out the two wires from the multimeter and hold the ends together.
Then see if the speedo turns on.
If it does then the multimeter must be the problem.
If still nothing, check the connecting wires are all ok.
Ok, I opened my multimeter and found out burnt traces. I made jumpers.
Finally my esc turned on and I was able to read my amps. It was set to 10A, I lowered it down to 5.5A.
What's your recommendation amp settings for rc drift? I have 24k 9.5T, 10.92FDR. I used a lot of throttle to keep sliding.
Thanks
For Drift, you need smooth throttle control and not the highest speed.
So you may find that setting the timing low (10 degrees) gives a better feel. The amp draw will be lower maybe only 3 amps. The motor will also run cooler. You will have to gear it right.
Awesome, thank you for your help.
is that an xray tc?
Hi
No, it is a yokomo BD tc.
i went back and looked at your car in full screen and see some minor detail differences now but i am amazed at how similar the designs are between the xray and yokomo, i wonder who copied who....lol
Nick, from 6amps there are no benefits, right?
My motor (x20 13,5t LRP) is draining 11 amps, it will be better to lower the timing?
My use is for Touring Car 13.5 blinky mode.
limited to 4,5 FDR.
+Marcelo Borges
Hi
With fixed 4.5FDR, drivers push the timing until the motor gets too hot and burns out.
I do not like to go over 10 amps, so try 8 amps.
The amps changes a lot for just 1 or 2 degree change of timing.
If motor overheats and slow down towards end of race, the lower timing .
+Nick Adams
look my numbers:
35,0(R) 40,0degrees 5,83amps
32,5(R) 42,5degrees 9,18amps
30,0(R) 45,0degrees 10,87amps
maybe 9,18 or 5,83? the sweet spot
the numbers tests: Watt meter / Esc car in full throttle
battery a 7,4volts (storage mode)
FDR locked 4,5
no connect pinion, motor is free.
+Marcelo Borges
Hi
The X20 motor sensor is different to other motors.
Move rotor towards pinion end for better magnetic focus.
Your 32.5 setting looks good.
Run the motor in a race and check temperature.
Try and keep below 100degree C.
Thanks, Best regards
thanks.yes I use a fan and this helps. 😁
Hi Nick, After me and my friend watched the video we tried this on my 17.5 buggy it is really much faster. I also run VTA which is 25.5 touring car, what would be the target amperage for it?
Hi Robert
Great, you are going faster.
The 25.5T motor is very inefficient and will overheat if you try and get too much out of it.
The VTA are also heavy and probably do not run, handle well, so have some stop start action, which will heat the motor.
Test it first and see what the amp draw is.
If it is very low, say 1 amp, then turn timing up to say 3 amps and try and see how hot it gets.
If all good , try 4 amps.
I think 6 amps will make it too hot.
Also it may be able to pull a smaller pinion at the higher amp draw, so it is a bit of a too and fro to get the best compromise.
See how you get on.
Nick
I will test it to see where I am at now and then add. My car handles well and with changes I am making I think I will make it better. August 1st there will be some rule changes dropping the weight from 1550 to 1450 and the battery from 5000 mah to 6000 mah.
Hi Robert
Yes, the lower weight will reduce the strain on the motor.
Don't waste it by adding a heavier battery.
Race on
Nick
Are you using 1s or 2s
Hi Joe. Use 2S lipo.
Nick Adams thank you and god bless you all.
Hello Nick. I did the multimeter/ammeter test with my Reedy Sonic Mach2 17.5T and Tekin GS Gen 2. I could not get a constant 6-ish amperage, only on initial burst then it would settle to around 3A+. Is this good enough or should it be reading at around 6A constant. The end bell timing is already maxed at 50. Thanks. :)
Re-did the test using a thicker wire for the multimeter to battery connection and the ampere readings are constant. I set it to 5.9A+/-, temps is around 160F after 8 minutes of running. Thanks Nick. :)
Hi Theo
It should be 6 amps when settled.
Some motors restrict the end bell advance timing.
In your case it is maxed. Sometimes it is possible to file the slot that is stopping it turning further.
Nick Adams Thanks for replying Nick :)
altering motor like that is illegal mod.. poor practice
I just checked my Trinity D3.5 17.5. With my end bell timing maxed out, I'm only getting 5.01 amps. Any suggestions??
+Bart Grider
Hi
Some older motors had limited timing on the endbell.
It is possible to file the endstops so it will rotate a little more.
But 5 amps is not too bad. Just fit a bigger pinion and you should be competitive.
+Nick Adams Hello, I filed the end stops and got it to 5.9 Amps. It only took 3 more degrees to get there. You're the man!!
Hi nick.
Just tried this with the motor in the car. I ran the motor straight through the esc as if running it properly and it seemed quite quickly. I then ran it through the multimeter and the speed of motor dropped and, according to multimeter, it was only drawing 2.88 on the DCA setting.
Is there anything I done wrong?
forgot to mention. I'm running 13.5, 1s in blinks mode.
Hi Jason
The multimeter may be dropping a little voltage, especially as you are using 1S
make sure the connecting wires are heavy duty and short.
Setting with 1S is much more difficult than 2S because of the voltage drops.
When setting for 1S (blinky), i did a video saying it is best to set it with a 2S lipo and then it will be right for the 1S
Hope that helps
nick
+Nick Adams
thanks.
just done it again using 2 1s batteries and I got a draw of 6.06 not far off where I originally started from.
Thanks
Hi jason
Ok, you are good.
Now race to win.
nick
by the way great videos!
Basically 6 amps is about the most you really wanna have ?
17.5. 21.5 ? Thanks.
Hi
17.5T yes, but 21.5t run very hot, so only about 4.5Amps is all they can take.
Nick Adams What about a 13.5? Thanks Nick!!!
Hi
Yes, all winds 17.5T down to 4.5T can be set to 6amps, and will give very good results
Nick Adams Thank you Nick!!! Do you have a video for measuring the amp draw on a esc/motor using boost? Thank you!!!
So will a 25.5 pull 6 amps?
Hi Chris
Not normally for a 25.5T
High winds have high winding resistance, and poor efficiency.
Depending on the use: 2S and weight of vehicle.
You should time the motor and gear it so that it runs no hotter than in the 70 degree C range, measured straight after the run.
Assuming you are running Blinky (No speedo timing) I suggest you set the timing at about 45 degrees, and measure the amps, which should be less than 6 amps.
Try and find a gearing that gives good performance for the track.
Measure motor temp, and if not hot you can either gear up for overall performance gain, or increase timing by a few degrees for higher top speed. Then check temp again. Repeat as necessary.
Note that a powerful motor cooling fan is essential on high wind motors, as they will generate heat.
Attempting to test with a multimeter. I tried two different meters, both popped the fuse. Am I doing something wrong? Is it that I just have cheap $20/US meters?
Hi Rob
The start up current is quite high, so advance the throttle slowly until full speed.
The meter can do at least 10amps DC?
Also check that the meter conecting leads are not too thin, as they will drop voltage and give low readings.
Both meters have separate 10A capabilities, inputs. I'm not using their leads. I used 4mm bullet/12g wire leads.
Hot off esc into hot on battery
Neg on esc into 10A input on meter
Jumper wire, 12g / 4mm bullet one end to Com on meter, opposite to Neg on battery.
D4 1s 17.5 motor , Tekin Gen2 120A esc. I also have a Monster 13.5 / Tekin RSX set up I wanted to test.
Hi Rob
Everything looks good.
Does it blow fuse straight on connection, or when you throttle up.?
If you advance throttle just to a slow speed does the meter fuse still blow?
It might have happened on throttle up...I'm not really sure. I wonder though, if I dropped the current limiter on the Hotwire, would that possibly help prevent popping the fuse? And / or , will lowering the limiter affect amp draw?
Hi Rob
The fuse should not blow if you advance the throttle slowly until at full speed. (As long as current draw is less than 10 amps)
Setting the current limit to minimum may help if still blowing a fuse as it accelerates.
6 1/2 amps is "just over" ?? I guess it's also "just under" 7 amps then... I'd take that one down a bit...
Shit I thought nitro was confusing... Guess I'll be sticking to nitro rc seems much easier.
But you go Pro with the sandwich. Take bigger bites into the electric and you will soon be a Pro electric beater.
the rpms your getting are ridiculous low , i have 27 single brushed that can do 31k on 3.7volts